The garage is a multifunctional space. You can put and repair cars in it, design and manufacture various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace... The workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can process various materials, carry out locksmith, electromechanical and assembly work. Also, in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry) processing. The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the tabletop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave traces on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.

Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.

Workbench construction

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully think over every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers that can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for a hanging tool, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Grinder with a wheel for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective equipment for welding.

2. Screwdriver.

   Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

Materials (edit)

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square tube 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for table top 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15 mm

Drawer guides.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made of these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm. The overall design and a large table top allow you to place a vice and, for example, emery or other tools at different ends of the table.

The first step in making a workbench is cutting the existing material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.

The desk drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding power frame workbench. The elements of the table top are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame should be welded so that one more frame from the corners can be welded on top of it, into which the boards of the table top will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will serve as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, reinforcing the structure.

After the basic frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. For this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. The frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is making a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners with a length of 750 mm, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wood planks lay inside it.

The frame from the corner is laid on the frame made of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffening ribs.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the lathing of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle for reinforcement. The toolbox is welded to the worktop.

A frame made of corners and pipes is ready. You can begin to strengthen the structure. Brackets are welded to the sides of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of desk drawers. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If there are small parts, then you can build 3 boxes, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

Drawers can be positioned on both sides of the table, pull-out structures can be mounted on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the other.

After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer sections. To these holes with inside the slide for the drawer guides will be attached.

The fifth stage is laying the boards into the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into workpieces of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If long boards are not available, you can lay the workpieces across the table. For this purpose, wood with a width of 205 mm is cut into 10 pieces with a length of 740 mm.

Before placing the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then it is imperative to paint the entire metal structure of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosion coating option. The welding seams should be painted especially carefully. Metal drops and unevenness are recommended before painting works clean thoroughly. This can be done with an angle grinder with a metal disc.

After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and dry out when the temperature and humidity change. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded to make it easier to lay the sheet metal over the wood. Boards along the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the worktop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach steel sheet on hidden screws for wooden boards. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint and varnish coating, it is easy to restore and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the paint that covered the frame. It will be nice, but over time the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.

The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls., shelves and power board in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After the work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a compound that will protect the material from environmental influences. Also, do not forget about the design of a power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or self-tapping screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.

In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the desired location.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vise on a locksmith workbench

Vise is an indispensable attribute locksmith's bench... It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the worktop itself. It is best to place a 1 cm thick metal gasket between the table metal and the tool. Drilling holes for anchor bolts is required in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes of the same size in the countertop. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for homemade workbench construction

1. If the garage area is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the entire structure must be stable, not swaying and not budging with little effort.
2. The workplace should be organized so that nothing would interfere with the person. When working with a vice, all unnecessary tools must be removed from the tabletop.
3. Corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
4. After renovation works behind the workbench, you need to remove the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
5. If a homemade workbench is made correctly, then it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Plywood for shield

Video - DIY workbench in the garage

Most of the home craftsmen, which are the bulk of the subscribers and visitors of our site, to one degree or another have already solved the problem of organizing their workplace by arranging comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.

But there are also those who look closely at home handicrafts, try this universal profession, which includes many specialties, which is becoming a very useful hobby for a family.

First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful to those who have already found themselves in the role of DIY and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently start arranging a home workbench for a workshop with their own hands.

Workshop workbench types

The workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized processing works different materials... Accordingly, depending on what material you will have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. By the type of materials to be processed, workbenches are subdivided into:

• carpentry;
• locksmiths;
• combined.

Based design features, the following types are added to them:

• universal;
• folding.

Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with a different list of functions, and distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you experience your home master if you convert into banknotes outside your apartment or the yard of your house, you can either choose a factory-made universal folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.

But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable and here three options are possible:

• carpentry workbench with the ability to perform a number of plumbing operations;
• locksmith's workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
• combined workbench.

We immediately note that last option is not the best solution, since it does not allow to fully perform both carpentry and locksmith's types of work in full, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore, the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in the examples for self-made.

Making a simple garage workbench with your own hands

The simplest workbench for a home workshop will be a fairly powerful table with a small set additional functions: boxes, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanents.

It is good if there is a possibility of its slight transformation to perform work on metal or wood, but more on that below.

To create such a workbench, we take 40x80 wooden blocks and cut 4 legs: 2 pcs. length 700 mm, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower lintels 500 mm long. For the 2 upper lintels of the same length, we used a 40x100 bar available on the farm.

It will also go for the top strapping of the base of our workbench in the front, with a length of 1400 mm at the bottom and 1600 mm at the top. And at the back we use a 40x150x1600 edged board, but we will need all the long blanks later.

If you have a tool for making finger joints, use it as we did.

If not, make them by hand, or you can butt-join the parts using overhead metal fasteners.

Assemble the side posts as shown in the photo below.

After that, you can start assembling the entire bed.

The central lintel inside the bed, made of the same 40x80 bar, fixed on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, serves as a stop for two nightstands with drawers from old desks, which we decided to use in our workbench.

For the work surface of the workbench, we also used our existing laminated fiberboard surface. We screwed a board to the leading edge on metal plates, which will protect its edge from peeling during operation. It will also serve as the basis for attaching a small locksmith vice with a clamp.

We fastened the working surface to the bed on metal corners and got a fairly powerful workbench general purpose for our home workshop.

Manufacturing of a carpentry workbench with revision for locksmith work

If you mainly work with wood, then it would be logical to make a joiner's workbench and make some structural modifications for locksmith operations.

The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been worked out for centuries, which has practically not undergone significant changes until the present day. It is based on a massive bed on spike joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often stacked) table top with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vice-clamps for fixing workpieces.

The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on the maximum length of the workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are going to make wooden doors on your own, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m and the width at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. My grandfather's workbench - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that he needed 20 centimeters in width to make large frames for verandas.

The dimensions of the school joinery workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the dimensions in the plan suit you, and you are ready to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of the appropriate size to the legs. But alternative options can also be considered.

As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for a workshop with various materials for countertops, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and various vice mechanisms. Now, in order:

1. The frame is made of dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height for your height. If your workbench will be installed in a room where there will be no sudden changes in humidity, then the connection of its elements can be done by any in a convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.

2. The table top can be made from ready-made glued wooden boards, sold in most building supermarkets, or glue them from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm on their own using PVA glue, having built a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the countertop, but it is still advisable to glue the ends of it with wooden slats made of oak, beech or ash.

3. For fixing the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the workbench table top is built up with bars of the appropriate size. The most popular are the following clamping devices:

- carpentry lead screw with two guides of Czech production Tr 24 * 5, 390/205 at a price of about 3 thousand rubles.

Spanish vice for joinery Piher, 150 mm, cost approx. 2 thousand rubles;

You can also make some kind of their own semblance, using a hairpin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which of course will not transfer such efforts as a vice, but will make your clamp extremely economical and maintainable, due to its low cost;

Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same pins, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 such clamps on one vice.

4. The holes for the stop pegs are made in two directions opposite the vise lead screw. It is also useful to make them across the entire surface of the countertop parallel to each other for confident fixing of oversized products.

5. Fasten the tabletop of the workbench to the base on strong metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, fix it to the floor with their help.

And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench variant described in this section of the article.

Now, several options for fixtures for performing plumbing work on such a workbench.

1. The simplest of them is to make a plate of steel with a thickness of 3 - 5 mm with a frame made of a steel corner, stored separately from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered onto the tabletop if necessary.
2. The main attribute of a locksmith's workbench is a locksmith's vice. In this case, we recommend using a vise with fasteners that do not require going through the workbench top.

You can, of course, fit the holes for the stops for the vise fasteners, but with a thick pad, you can do without this. Also interesting is the option of attaching the bench vise directly to the table top of the joiner's workbench using a transition bar-stand and a powerful clamp.

And at the same time, the overlay should not be made over the entire area of ​​the workbench. There are a lot of options, the choice is yours.

Modification of a locksmith's workbench for joinery work

Often, especially if the farm has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a locksmith.

We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but about simple ways We will tell you about its adaptation for carpentry work, especially since it is not at all difficult. For the full use of your locksmith's workbench as a carpentry, you will need to dismantle the locksmith's vice, and make several simple devices.

Let's consider them in more detail.

1. From the first picture below, when finalizing the locksmith's workbench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the pins (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a one-piece removable structure) and a suitable wedge, we will get a simple and reliable device for attaching the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden lining fixed with recessed clamps, with the entire set of workpiece fasteners shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise to its thickness, which can be compensated for by the appropriate height with a ladder at the workbench.

There is nothing to say about the backgauge, it just serves as a supporting function for long workpieces.

2. You can make an overhead planer board with a universal stop, as shown in the second figure. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the bar to be processed) and screwing the bar on the bottom side to stop against the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns a locksmith's workbench into a carpentry workbench.

3. A slightly more complex overlay with a rather powerful option for securing the workpiece also allows you to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is also to screw the stop on the right side and choose a thickness of at least 50-70 mm for more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.

The method of installing the last two planers on the workbench is shown in the diagram:

Dear readers, if you have any questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

None of the modern attributes of a garage are in demand and appreciated as much as a good metal workbench. Looking into the garage, you can at a glance evaluate and understand what the owner is worth and how much he loves locksmith work. For those who have to work with their own hands for a long time, cook or repair equipment, make automobile or household "devices", it is almost impossible to do without a good metal workbench.

How to properly design a locksmith workbench with your own hands

You can buy a ready-made Chinese locksmith "miracle" or bargain for half the price for a used version of a metal workbench from an auto repair shop. Both cases are clearly stock. They are not suitable for do-it-yourself locksmith work neither in strength, nor in size, nor in terms of comfort level. And the last factor in plumbing is one of the main ones. Most real way get a good metal workbench - do it yourself according to your own reason and understanding.

When making a locksmith workbench with your own hands, you need to consider a few simple conditions successful design of a metal workbench for locksmith work:

1. The height of the structure must be such that the level of the metal worktop accounted for you at the level of the navel. This means that if you come close to a metal table and put your palms on the surface, at the normal height of the workbench, your arms will be slightly bent at the elbows, and your hands will correspond to the level of your trouser belt;
2. The scope of a metal workbench is not as serious for comfortable work as its height. Being at the midpoint of the locksmith's workbench, you must reach with your own hands to any of its edges, taking half a step, a maximum step;
3. The most important characteristic The locksmith's workbench was, is and always will be - the strength of the locksmith's structure. It is never redundant. Strength metal frame must withstand any blows and cataclysms, and at the same time not fall apart or, worse, topple over, injuring the owner.

Advice! Do not try to replace the metal workbench with wood plumbing, chipped metal.

A similar option is possible if you build a workbench frame with your own hands from a bar of old acacia or bog oak. In other cases, it is not necessary to count on carrying out serious locksmith work on such a table.

What should not be the metal structure of a locksmith's workbench

Rarely does a garage have a perfectly flat concrete floor. Often to increase strength metal structure some amateurs manage to make a locksmith's table on six or even eight metal supports with their own hands. As a result, such a locksmith's treasure stands steadily on three legs, and three or even five more are in limbo. You can try to make part of the metal supports with screw adjustment of the support length, but is it worth it? For a stable and safe position, the locksmith's bench must be supported by four supports, which give excellent stability and maximum adhesion to the concrete floor.

In addition, it is advisable to lower the center of gravity of the locksmith's workbench below the plane of the metal tabletop, the lower the better. To do this, it is advisable to place the heaviest and most massive tools on the lower shelves of the workbench.

We build a metal workbench

As a project, we use a conventional two-pillar structure of a locksmith's table on four supports and with a metal frame. We use one of the pedestal racks as shelves; in the second, three drawers for standard boxes with fasteners, small tools and all sorts of rubbish that should not be scattered on the countertop.

Description of the structure

The given design of a metal workbench can be called one of the simplest and most durable. At first glance, there are too many unnecessary elements in the device of the locksmith's table, but this is a deceptive impression.

In fact, the layout of the locksmith's table is minimized to the limit. There are actually five basic elements used in metal construction:

1. Three horizontal beams from a metal profile 60 * 40 mm, provide the longitudinal rigidity of the table, each slightly more than two meters long;
2. Vertical racks, 90-100 mm high, in the amount of four pieces, from the same metal square as the horizontal elements. Any metal profile, preferably with the thickest wall, can be selected as the material of the racks. Even 2 mm will be enough to provide strength, but may be weak for welding;
3. Nine small-sized beams - racks made of 60 * 40 mm profile, from which the frames of two locksmith's table pedestals are assembled. In addition, additional oblique steel strip struts are welded in the corners of the metal frame. Both types of parts make the main contribution to ensuring the rigidity and strength of the workbench frame, therefore, all major welds are carefully welded and reinforced with linings;
4. On the back wall of the locksmith's workbench, four vertical metal racks from corner No. 50, with a height of 170 to 200 cm, are welded. On these racks, places for fastening the working tool will be formed.

In total, the frame construction will take at least 25 square meters and 8-10 meters of a four-millimeter metal strip, 25-40 mm wide.

The design of the workbench has a low longitudinal rigidity, therefore, the plane of attachment of the tabletop is additionally reinforced with a frame made of a corner. Thus, the supporting surface of the frame and the welded-on outer corner formed a seat for the padding of the tabletop from a 50 mm board covered with a steel sheet of 750 * 2200 mm, with a metal thickness of 4 mm.

The thicker the steel surface of the worktop, the stronger the workbench itself. But the cost sheet metal grows in the arithmetic error of its thickness, it is quite difficult to work with such blanks because of the decent weight, and this does not bring any special advantages.

In addition, the wooden board compensates for possible deflections. metal surface under high static load and partly dampens the vibrations of the tabletop under shock loads. Sometimes in order to reduce the influence of shock and vibration loads on the steel sheet of the table top, under the boards, along the contour seat, lay with their own hands a thick gasket from a conveyor belt or similar rubber.

Such a measure does not so much reduce the load on the vertical posts as it reduces the risk of breakage or cracking of the weld seams in case of strong impacts.

Assembly work

In fact, the frame is built of only three types of elements, due to which welding work is greatly simplified, it is simply impossible to get confused or confused the assembly sequence. Most often, such a metal profile has an insignificant metal wall thickness of 2-2.2 mm. Therefore, to obtain the maximum quality of the seam, it is better to use a carbon dioxide semiautomatic device.

Getting the primary metal frame of the workbench

For amateurs who have sufficient skills in welding thin-walled structures, it is quite possible to weld a workbench frame with their own hands using a conventional pulse welding machine... For everyone else, it makes sense to practice or hire a professional welder before assembly.

First, the main frame is welded from two short and two long beams. To avoid twisting the parts to be welded by the "propeller", two conditions must be met:

• Lay out the elements to be welded on the most flat and even surface;
• Fasten with "points" in each of the four docking nodes of the future tabletop frame;
• Carefully weld all four seams on one side, turn over and repeat welding from the opposite plane.

Next, the rear uprights and the rear third long beam are welded to the welded tabletop frame. At this stage, it is necessary to carefully check the accuracy of the relative position of the vertical struts with your own hands and, if necessary, bend with the help of gentle blows with a light hammer.

At the final stage, the rest of the vertical struts and stiffeners are welded. As a result, we got the frame shown in the photo.

Finishing work on a metal workbench

In the next step, a reinforcing corner is welded to the frame to assemble the tabletop. Before laying, the boards are treated with a fire-resistant compound. Usually, welding on a locksmith's workbench is not accepted, but impregnation guarantees and insures against accidental ignition from sparks or open flames.

Mounted on top of the laid board a metal sheet... A plywood board is attached to the vertical posts of the workbench with bolts, which will be used for a variety of tools.

The side walls of the frame and the left pedestal are sewn up with plywood panels, the right pedestal receives three large wooden boxes. If desired, it is quite easy to make them with your own hands or replace them with ordinary metal boxes.

A good locksmith workbench requires an application paints and varnishes to protect the metal base. The first layer is a primer, the second is an enamel that is resistant to impacts and the effects of greases and oils. The steel sheet covering the countertop boards is often not covered with paint, and after treatment with a rust converter, it is polished and rubbed with a protective wax mastic.

The most problematic, from the point of view of loads, is considered to be the place of installation of bench vices, a set for cutting, welding and riveting. steel structures... Most often they are best positioned on the left or right edge of the locksmith's bench. The place should be comfortable and safe for work.

The next step in fine-tuning a locksmith's workbench is the organization of the correct lighting. For this, two separate light sources are used. The first is used for general illumination of the entire surface of the workbench, the second lamp, as a rule, is a point portable light source that allows you to carry out locksmith work with any, the smallest details.

A number of professionals recommend adding additional weight to the workbench with everything that is at hand. Despite the solid weight of the metal structure of the workbench, you will need to load the lower sections - the shelves and drawers of the workbench with the heaviest parts, tools and materials. This will increase the inertia of the locksmith's bench and lower the center of gravity of the entire metal structure.

The shelves and drawers of the locksmith's workbench can be designed and built as open shelves, this will make it easier to find any the right tools and materials. At the same time, special doors or curtains are not used in the construction of a metal workbench.

An alternative solution is to secure the support surfaces of the metal workbench posts to a concrete base using four anchor bolts embedded in the garage floor.

Conclusion

Let no one be fooled by the finished construction of a metal workbench. Very often, enthusiasts find many new wonderful ideas for improving the design of a metal locksmith table and implement them with pleasure. Truly versatile and comfortable design a locksmith's workbench becomes after four to five alterations. In such variants, there are special attachment points for desktop machines, welding, plumbing and soldering equipment, gas extraction systems.

It is no secret that a well-equipped workplace is the key to successful performance of plumbing, electromechanical or assembly work. The main item in the garage or workshop, around which everything is settled work zone, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Purchase finished product in the retail network can result in a tidy sum, so it is better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in exact accordance with the requirements of functionality and placement.

DIY workbench. How to do it?

Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process, you can get by with minimal carpentry and locksmith skills.

Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which lie in the fact that you can arrange in advance the locations of vices and other devices, think over the number and location of drawers, etc.

Required tools and materials

To make a workbench yourself, you need to prepare the following tools:

• electric jigsaw or a hacksaw;
• electric drill and a set of drills for wood and metal;
• joiner's square;
• roulette;
• bubble level;
• set of wrenches.
• When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention that the wooden parts do not have cracks or knots. In order to get started, you will need:
• bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
• two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go to the table top, and the other to the bottom shelf.
• boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
• bolts (it is best to use furniture bolts, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
• washers and nuts;
• self-tapping screws.

To facilitate assembly and avoid mistakes when cutting the material, it is better to make drawings of the workbench and indicate the dimensions of each part on it.

DIY workbench drawings

DIY workbench. Step-by-step instruction

First of all, you need to make upper frame underframe. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, boards of the required length are sawn off.

With the help of self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fixed in such a way as to obtain a rectangular frame. After that, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where the spacer bar is installed. In its capacity, the same board 50x150 mm is used, which is attached to the frame from both ends with self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself workbench made of wood. Photo

Support legs the workbench is made of 6 identical bars. Long bolts with nuts and washers are used to attach them to the upper frame. To mount the support, the bar is installed in the corner of the frame and drilled two through holes through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts and nuts.

To achieve the required rigidity of the structure, the lower boards are mounted. By the way, these same details will serve as the basis bottom shelf... To do this, in full accordance with the drawings of the workbench, 4 wooden parts with a section of 50x150 mm are sawn off.

To secure the lower boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one part is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front board is attached between the middle and side support on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.

Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.

Using an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw, parts are cut from OSB sheets or plywood for countertops... It is attached flush to the top of the desktop using self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which can be easily replaced with new material as it wears out. To install the lower shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the outermost legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or a hacksaw, cutouts are made in its corners for the support legs. Fastening the shield to the lower base is carried out in the same way as installing the table top.

To obtain the stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame of the locksmith's workbench, they must use carpentry square... After installing the workbench, bubble level check the horizontal position of its location. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces of thin plywood under the legs.

DIY workbench. Step-by-step instruction

After the end of the assembly, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective compound, varnished or painted.

DIY small workbench for home

The design of a locksmith workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate locksmith and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on the balcony, in the corner of the utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size desktop, it will not take up much space and will be able to fit a lot of tools and fixtures in its drawers.

Table top small workbench is made of two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table top, along the edges it has an additional thickening with two layers of plywood sheet, which gives a thickness of 72 mm.

Considering that plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make a reinforcing strip, which is located along the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the tabletop will have to be changed.

When starting the construction of a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:

• a rule with a length of at least 2 m;
• Circular Saw;
• joiner's square;
• notched spatula with a tooth size of 2x2 or 3x3 mm. You can buy a ready-made tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
• screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
• spanners;
• good wood glue, for example, "Moment Joiner"
• plywood 18mm thick;
• wooden beam 40x60 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts, nuts, washers.

In addition, for self-production of a workbench, you need to get good carpentry clamps, without which it will be problematic to glue plywood sheets. If there is no way to purchase a quality tool, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, which will need double the amount.

The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with cover, into which a strip with a length of 1520 mm is cut from a sheet of plywood with a length of 2440 mm. Sawing this part, elements with a size of 1520x610 mm are obtained to strengthen the sides of the lid. Then, as a rule, the plane of the plywood sheets is checked in order to orient them with a convex surface inward when gluing.

The next stage will require maximum concentration and accuracy - it is required to evenly distribute within a couple of minutes wood glue on the surface of one plywood sheet. If you feel that the lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use it to connect wooden parts furniture glue PVA. It has no time limit and can be applied with a simple paint brush. Having prepared the clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay the bottom sheet on three boards, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the upper plywood board.

Having installed pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly controlling the flatness using a rule. The place in the center of the tabletop cannot be pressed with a clamp, so it is left without load.

When gluing a panel from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you put the structure on a flat surface and press it evenly over the entire plane with some kind of load. After the glue dries, the clamps or load are removed and the next stage of making the workbench with their own hands proceeds.

So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape, when cutting it parquet you have to be very careful. As a guide bar, you can apply a rule. When cutting the countertop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain the corners of 90 ° using a joiner's square or using the factory corners remaining when cutting the plywood as a template. Fill the remaining scraps of the plywood board into strips 150 mm wide. They will be needed to reinforce the perimeter of the countertop, so glue them around the edge of the countertop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower plywood sections.

For the manufacture of underframe a bar with a section of 40x60 mm is used. At the same time, the tsars and prodrugs are made of solid lumber, and the supports are glued from two segments and one whole bar. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account its height, since inconvenience and discomfort should not arise when using it. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the worktop is 900 mm.

Next, the legs are glued together and two frames are assembled. In this case, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the joints, since when deviating from right angle the geometry of the structure will be violated. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the corners of all parts are strictly 90 °. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The clearance from the floor to the bottom stitch must be 150 mm.

After the glue dries, the frames are mounted on the countertop and secured with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood board and another set of prongs and tsars is cut out. Self-tapping screws 8x120 mm are used to fasten the structure to the tabletop.

It is possible to increase the stability of the workbench if the prongs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same screws. By choosing a recess for the head of the hardware with a feather drill, the aesthetics of the joints are provided.

The workbench is almost ready. If desired, a box for storing tools can be made in its underframe.

DIY metal workbench for a garage

A workbench made of steel has the strength and reliability required when working with metal products... Such a desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.

Materials and tools

To start making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following locksmith tools:

• angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
• welding machine;
• building level;
• electric jigsaw;
• drill with a set of drills;
• screwdriver;
• measuring tool.

DIY metal workbench drawings

Some materials that are needed for the workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be purchased at construction market... You will need:

• steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
• profile pipe 60x40x2;
• steel strip 40x4 mm;
• steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
• boards 50 mm thick;
• 15mm plywood and drawer guides;
• screws for metal and bolts.

In addition, prepare paint and rust remover for aesthetics and moisture-proof metal.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench

Cutting material... Cut into the frame shaped tube... A steel corner is used to reinforce the structure and edging of the table top. The metal strip is used to guide the side panels and to make the brackets for the desk drawers.

Frame welding... A rectangular tabletop frame is mounted from pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs. In this case, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To strengthen the frame every 400 mm, sections of steel pipes are welded as stiffeners.

How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. Photo

Along the edges of the table, support legs 900 mm long are mounted by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or a profile pipe.

On both sides, the frames of the workbench drawers are welded to the legs.

Corners for edging are installed on the frame of the tabletop, after which they are fastened with a welding joint.

From a corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 m, they equip a crate for a power vertical panel for a tool.

The finished frame is strengthened brackets made of steel bus, which are welded to its sides. For strengthening, 24 elements are required. Additionally, it is required to drill holes in each strip for the installation of the side and rear plywood panels.

Plywood is cut into parts for making boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of boxes and their location depends on the specific need and personal preferences of the owner.

After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slide are welded to the sides of the frame.

All welding seams and sharp corners pass through a grinder with an installed grinding wheel, and rusty metal sections are cleaned with a metal brush nozzle.

The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.

The boards are cut along the length of the table top and placed in the frame from the corner. To prevent rotting and damage of wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.

The lumber is placed in a prepared bed, leaving 2-3 mm gaps between the wood and metal to allow the wood to expand when it swells. After that, the boards are screwed on with self-tapping screws.

The upper steel sheet is treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, it is attached to wooden countertop self-tapping screws.

The drawers of the table are painted and installed on the rails, as well as the side and rear plywood sheathing is attached.

After the workbench is made, a vice and other necessary equipment are installed, hooks are attached to place the tool.

What is a workbench

A workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, there are carpentry and locksmith workbenches for working with wood and metal, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multi-seat. Workbenches, designed for one workplace, have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-seat locksmith tables increase according to the number of people working at them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also structures with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their countertops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.

This joinery workbench has a sturdy frame, a sturdy work surface and many compartments for convenient storage of tools and accessories. You will make the basic structure with your own hands in two days, and you will add various useful additions gradually.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Electric planer.
3. Circular saw.
4. Grinder.
5. Drill and drills.
6. Clamps.
7. Screwdriver.
8. Pencil.
9. Square.
10. Roulette.
11. Brush.

Carpentry workbench frame

Take smooth pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The considered carpentry workbench is designed for comfortable work of a craftsman with a height of 170-180 cm. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

	Name	Finish dimensions, mm			Material	Quantity
	Leg detail
	Bottom spacer
	Upper spacer
	Transverse slip
	Cover cross member
	Longitudinal slip
	Longitudinal drawer side
	Bottom shelf
	Worktop spacer

All the elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

Saw all wooden blanks along the length, with the exception of the spacers: it is more convenient to cut the short ones already planed, and the long ones should be sawed off later "in place".

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade and halve the result. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Fold the boards down exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the parts and sand them with medium grit sandpaper.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After removing dust from the surfaces, apply glue to the small piercer and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off any glue that has escaped, and drill the holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with 6.0x70 screws. Prepare the rest of the legs of the joinery workbench frame.

Chamfer the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench moves.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal stubs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and secure with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of your joinery workbench on a flat surface. Fasten the blocks with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Collect bottom rail workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Replace the top frame and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

Cut the bottom shelf out of 16 mm thick sheet material and attach it to the bars

Carpentry workbench worktop

Use MDF, chipboard or plywood sheets with a thickness of 16–20 mm for the lid of the workbench. Glue the boards in two layers and get a worktop 32–40 mm thick.

Drawing and arrangement of the workbench cover: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (hard fiberboard); 3 - carrier plate(Chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For the countertop, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe will do. Take them as a base and add small pieces so that the lid of the joiner's workbench is 670x1940 mm.

Place narrow slabs towards the back and center of the workbench. Place large sheets in top layer countertops. Glue the cut pieces together.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Cut the edges by hand circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the table top with the frame and secure with screws.

Sharpen the edge strips. Saw off the bevels at 45 ° and cut the planks to lengths. Place a piece of fiberboard on the lid of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the overlays. Align the ends to the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill the pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the rest of the pads. Grind the strips with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the slab to allow the fiberboard to be easily pushed out of the groove when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with stain. Place the fiberboard into the recess in the lid. If you are using pieces of material, then fix them with double-sided tape... Place a joinery vice on a workbench.

Tool storage boxes in the carpentry table

When filling the space under the lid of a joinery workbench, use a modular approach. It is easier to make individual blocks and it is more convenient to change later when space is required for a new instrument. There will be a certain waste of material, but the weight of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with a power tool.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - full extension drawer; 2 - a capacious plywood box; 3 - chipboard container; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for portable tool box; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use boxes from old furniture

Select boxes that are suitable in size from unnecessary writing desk or chest of drawers.

Sign up wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the glue from the spikes and lugs.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting angles for precise assembly of right angles.

When the glue is dry, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for easy handling.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Screw on the guide rails.

Collect the panels into a module and try out the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench with props underneath.

Drill the pilot holes, countersink and tighten the self-tapping screws. Attach the chipboard to the top rails and workbench legs.

Install the front trims on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Replace the drawer and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Attach the remaining trims - the wide drawer module is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the bench to increase the rigidity of the joiner's workbench. For the case, take a 16 mm chipboard and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Middle module case: 1 - frame diagram; 2 - side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame on the screws and install it close to the right block.

Prepare parts for the drawer.

Drawer elements drawings: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

Using a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular blade. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. Move the rip fence 2 mm and test cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Drive the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install the rails from below to protect chipboard edges from chips and providing a smoother ride.

Fasten the bezel with the screws and put the drawer back in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The structure of the cases of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The retractable container placed on roller guides is made taking into account the installation gap, so its width will be less than the internal size of the body by 26 mm (for common guides with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the body, fix the wooden rails and metal rails to the sidewalls.

Installation diagram of the guides on the walls of the case.

Anchor ready module under the lid of the workbench.

To install the rails on the drawer, unclip the clips and pull out the small rails.

Secure the parts to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide on your own based on the specific design and the gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull out the middle rails until they stop.

Insert both rails at the same time while holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the drawer goes tight, remove it and try again.

Replace the front pad.

How to make a plywood workbench drawer

Saw the blanks of the box body from 10 mm plywood, and for the bottom, take a sheet 5 mm thick.

Cutting scheme for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - rear insert; 3 - side wall; 4 - front liner.

Grind the workpieces.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the sidewalls, back and front liners. Sand the burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw the parts of the front and rear walls.

Apply glue to the joints and groove.

Assemble the structure using corners and clamps.

Secure the parts with screws by drilling the pilot holes.

Build a second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back of the joinery workbench designed to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Finish the boxes and the trimmed ends of the chipboard.

Power up your DIY workbench and start filling containers with tools.