Furniture edges - ribbon materialwhich protects our lungs from toxic evaporation during the operation of interior items from chipboard, MDF and LDSP. Modern technologiesimplemented in the manufacture of furniture, allow you to minimize the use of harmful components. However, the ends are still better to close the special edge.

Currently, the consumer audience has a variety of furniture edges. Special varieties are distinguished according to the manufacturing material, installation and cost method. Among other things, each facing agent has its own obvious pros and cons. Let's look at the edges in detail.

Purpose

In addition to imparting furniture of aesthetic qualities, furniture edges allow you to protect the ends of products from chipboard, MDF, other common materials, from the destructive impact of moisture. It is through the ends into the inner layers of wood penetrate insects, microorganisms, fungal disputes that accelerate the process of decomposition of materials. Furniture edges make it possible to eliminate the above manifestations.

Scope of application

Furniture edges are successfully used to process the following interior items:

• countertops, kitchen and office tables;
• top covers of mobile and appitable tumbers;
• sidewall and bottom of cabinets;
• ends of the boxes, Tumb.

Melamine edge

Such a furniture edge self-adhesive is facing material on the paper based. Products of this category are processed by impregnation in the form of melamine resins. It is the last and endow the edges with protective qualities.

Based on the amount of paper layers used in the production, multilayer and single-layer melamine end ribbons are isolated.

If we talk about the advantages of the edges of this category, first of all it is worth noting the widest range available options. Thanks to this, the consumer gets the opportunity to choose exactly the end ribbon, the shade and parameters of which most accurately correspond to the available needs.

During the pasting of the furniture, there is no need to apply expensive equipment. For installation, it is enough to use the usual household iron. Conduct such a task for any housewife.

The disadvantage of melamine tapes is a minor thickness (from 4 to 6 mm). From here implies the inability of the material to withstand essential mechanical influences. Due to the paper structure, such edges are not effectively protecting furniture ends from the penetration of moisture.

Furniture edge PVC

This type of end ribbons is much more durable and more resistant to all sorts external influences Compared with the previous decision. The material is produced in two versions - 2 and 4 mm thick. Thin ribbons are usually used for decorative processing Okotov, what remains in sight. The edges of 4 mm are applied to hidden surfaces, where an increased risk of damage is present.

For installation edges made of polyvinyl chloride, special machines are required. Therefore, the processing of furniture with such tapes is performed only in the conditions of production workshops.

Advantages of PVC edges:

• durability and wear resistance;
• effective protection of furniture ends from mechanical impacts and moisture;
• opposition to acids, alkalis, fats and salt solutions;
• absolute sociorate.

As for the deficiencies of polyvinyl chloride edges, there is no possibility for self-processing of furniture ends in living conditions, as well as some difficulties in obtaining perfectly smooth, glossy surfaces.

Edge ABS

ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene) is extremely durable, highly reliable facing material that does not contain chlorine. Therefore, the edges made from this basis find wide application In the furniture industry because of its safety.

ABS is characterized by a more fuel, soft structure compared to PVC. The material is easy to process, does not accumulate the static charge of electricity, and the process of its cutting is not difficult to stick with shallow shavings.

The advantages of the edges of the ABS:

• preservation of the initial, saturated shade throughout the life;
• the presence of an ideal smooth surface;
• lack of toxic evaporation during processing and heating.

The only drawback of ABS edges is quite impressive value in comparison with the same melamine products and facing tapes from polyvinyl chloride.

Acrylic edge

What does such a furniture edge look like? Photos of similar products indicate their multilayer structure. The lower part contains decorative finish either drawing. Upper layer It is presented in the form of this building the effect of the three-dimensional image is created. It is for this reason that acrylic products are also called 3D edges.

Among the advantages of such products can be allocated high level Stiffness and resistance to mechanical effects. Acrylic edges successfully protect furniture ends from scratches, shocks and chips. The main minus here is the high price.

SoftFooding and postforming edge

Considering the furniture edges, which there are materials for this purpose, it is impossible not to note the variants with the surface processing by the method of softfilling and post-forming. These solutions allow you to give the ends of furniture, tabletops and facades absolute tightness.

In general, the special difference in the characteristics of these materials is not observed. The only difference lies in the possibility of laminating embossed surfaces, which has been treated with softening edges.

How to glue the furniture edge?

Independently handle furniture ends at home allows the use of melamine edge. The material is seated on the glue, after which it is fixed by treating a hot iron. Such a solution is quite acceptable if necessary, the fulfillment of the rapid, relatively cheap repair of old furniture.

Works are performed in several stages:

1. To begin with, any old one besides him, a knife is required, a shallow fraction, a rag.
2. The edge is cut with a reserve of several centimeters. The segment is applied to the furniture end, pre-treated with glue, after which he warms it with an iron.
3. After smelting glue, the edge tape is tightly pressed with a rag.
4. Once the material is securely fixed on the surface, all excess are trimmed. Initially, end parts are removed and only after - longitudinal.
5. Finally is executed finish treatment Surfaces emery paper.

To ensure that it is convenient to perform work, it is desirable to find a knife with a sharp blade that will not leave the girlfriends. In the process of cutting, it is necessary to follow accuracy in order not to remove excess.

With the help of the same iron it is convenient to clean the surface from the remains of the old edge ribbon. To do this, it is quite good to warm up the plane of the device, go through the end and pry an unnecessary tape with a spatula or a knife.

Eventually

If the main task in the manufacture of furniture is the receipt of the highest possible result, it is better to resort to the factory edge of the ends. When the agenda is only redecorating Old interior items, it is possible to limit yourself to self-sealing surfaces with colored ribbons. The benefit today is on sale there is a wide variety of edges that imitate natural materials and differ in the whole mass of original shades.

Today we will analyze a more professional method of gluing the end decorative edge. This is the incommion on the thermoclay with a hair dryer. Naturally, not possessing professional equipmentWe will disassemble in amateur manner available to any garage masters.

To work, we will need 2 millimeter PVC edge with a thermoclaim applied to it - it is applied with a special roller in the form of a grid.

It can be purchased in furniture stores Metrah. If the store does not sell the edge with an adhesive layer, it can be applied in the furniture workshops for a fee (as a rule, it does not exceed 5 rubles. The meter is a temporable meter).

• In addition to the edge itself, we will need a thermopystole (it is an industrial hairdryer),
• As well as the edge milling mill, with a calm curb mill installed in it with ball bearing.
• Additional elements Are the tissue glove (one enough) and felt lumps.

Let us turn to the consideration of the methodology itself. Hair dryer is better to set on average values \u200b\u200b(about 300-400 degrees Celsius).

The workpiece is fixed on the workbench (horizontally - if it is large and vertically in the clamp, if small). To begin with, heating the tip of the edge ribbon - it should softenly soften and acquire elasticity.

While the glue is not frozen, we apply the heated edge to the end of the processed part. The applied edge with the felt bar is tightly pressed to the part for 10-20 seconds before cooling the glue.

Then, directing the stream of hot air into the gap between the detail and the edge ribbon heating the latter 10-15 centimeters of length,

after that, laying off the hairdryer, take the bar and sliding movements we press the heated ribbon.

This manipulation is repeated again and again. At the same time, it is not worth overheating the edge (it should not purchase pronounced plastic properties). If only in the minimum degree - the edge as it is beginning to draw to the workpiece - it means that it is enough to warm, you need to press. This moment comes with experience.

It is not only important not to overheat, but do not harm. In the first case, the edge will acquire intermediate plasticity and can go waves. In the second case, she just will not stick.

Now we turn to the next rather complicated stage at first, it is a processing or bolding of an angular radius (and the outer glue is easier than internal). I described, \u003e\u003e.

At the same time, the edge must be precisely overheated so that it is easily molded along the profile.

After heating, when the edge softened, quickly press the edge to the surface is trying to come along the entire angle.

At first, it may not be possible, that is, it is necessary to pre-train.

After stuck all edid ribbon, go to the removal of surplus, that is, soles. From the ends, you can cut off the secateur or just break away, pre-scratching the sharp item (I usually use 1 method).

Rights on the edges are removed by a special edge mill.

Manually make it pretty problematic, due to the large thickness of the edge. The mill cuts off the surplus, at the same time spinning the remaining edge.

Excess glue, which are often not cleaned with a cutter, can be scared with a simple metal ruler.

Often, after removing the outstands of the prominent places "Noncross".

Personally, I usually succeed exactly on the corners. How to be with them? We take again for the hair dryer and warming up the wrong site outside, trying to jet air blown into the gap.

Warming 5-6 seconds, laying off the hairdryer and tightly press the plot of felt bar to the surface of the part for 20-30 seconds.

As a rule, this is enough to glue the edge and remove the gap.

Now it remains only to turn the milled edge, which has a rough structure.

To do this, make some energetic movement along the cut edge edge.

At the same time, felt warms up a little bit, boils PVC, which smoothes all irregularities.

And photo of finished work (it will be a tabletop with a rounded angle).

This technique is applied even in small professional workshops when processing radius parts because large stationary automatic edging, as a rule, do not have the ability to sticker edges on rounding, and to acquire small specialized units, not everyone is considered cost-effective (at least in the furniture workshop, with which I cooperate, everything is right).

The edge in furniture production is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against the effects of moisture and formaldehyde vapor.

What kind of edges are, as well as about the ways of gluing them and how to glue the edge with iron and hairdryer, you will learn from this article.

Types of edges - why are they needed

1. The most common view - edge melamine with glue on paper basis. It is used to finish the inner sections of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the highest quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, rapidly wear out. It is easily glued at home by a simple iron.
2. T-shaped flexible profile - represents a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. The damaged element is further conveniently replaced without flashing furniture. For installation, the milling machine will be required.
3. PVC Cant - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is distinguished by wear resistance, resistance to moisture. To glue the PVC Cant, the edge processing machine will be required, so the use of this type of edges at home is difficult.
4. ABS plastic is an eco-friendly version without chlorine. Appreciated for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue And with glue.

The average cost of the profile for one time-meter:

• PVC thickness of 0.4 mm - about 25 rubles,
• PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
• Material from melamine for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, they actively use products from Rehau, which offers big choice color solutions, as well as different width Ribbons from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify work, you can use various specialized furniture programswhich calculate how many materials will be needed for gluing edges.

PVC edge - how to glue at home

To work will be required:

• iron or construction hairdryer,
• and of course buy PVC edge with glue
• hard roller
• newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated so that the glue becomes sticky. Heating is performed by iron in synthetic mode.

• The profile is applied to the end so that it overlaps the end of the site.
• Next, the iron is again performed through the newspaper. Since glue dissolves quickly, the process is active enough, and the iron is conveniently moving along the PVC edge.
• The edge itself needs to be carefully pressed and stroke until it sticks along the entire length.

1. Printing with a construction dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a construction hairdryer. PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired site, clamp and gently smoothed.
2. Glue with the "moment" glue. This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The end quality is checked manually, remove sawdust, litter, dust, until the surface is clean. Then on the material, and glue and wait for the end and wait until it grab. After that, apply and pressed. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grab quickly.

VIDEO

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to gently glue the edge from the first time, the procedure will have to be reused. To do this, glue again and pinch a profile using a roller or manually.

Since usually the PVC edge width is taken with a margin, you need to safely remove the surplus along the edges. To do this, use the usual stationery knife or file. It takes both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the extra pieces are laid out and the edge remains that coincides in the width with the site.

Completion of work

After everything glued, it will remain to treat the irregularities of sandpaper.

How to glue the edge to the chipboard - description

Melamine edge is optimal option For use at home, when it is necessary to restore old furniture from minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals that use another more expensive and high-quality material.

Consider how to glue the edge on the worktop from chipboard At home.

Great video on the topic

The following materials will be required for work:

• sking
• sharply sharpened knife jamb,
• roller for gluing wallpaper
• melamine edge
• construction hairdryer or iron.

Algorithm of actions:

1. choose an iron operation mode so that it does not heat up too much and burns the chipboard and at the same time ensured proper melting of glue,
2. edges of chipboard under the sticking to handle sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
3. measure profile
4. it is necessary to heat it with an iron and tightly press to the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, it will take self-applying glue to the edge, for example, the "moment" glue),
5. cut with a knife hanging edges.

Trim needed at an angle along the edge, slightly climbing the material. Then it will remain skin to handle edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.

If the edge of the edge and the chipboard itself, the details are slightly different, the simulator will help correct the difference.

In the case when the item has complicated formAnd the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, the first time does not always succeed exactly glue the material. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals in order not to spoil the product.

What glue to choose for edges

Professionals furniture production Actively use melt glues for edges. They are convenient if production is supplied to the stream, and it is required both high quality results and fast speed.

Melt adhesives are thermoplasts, that is, when heated, they become very elastic, and when cooled quickly solidify. For these properties, an ethylene polymer with vinyl acetate is responsible for these properties. The lack of use is to attribute the need to use special equipment, namely, the corresponding machines or manual pistols for applying glue into parts and warm-up.

1. In domestic conditions, PVC glue, which glues well paper Materials to various surfaces. Uniform without lumps light color The mass glues the surface well, but moisture is afraid. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for the operation of non-professional masters.
2. Universal adhesives "Moments and" 88-Suite ", which reliably stick the material to the surface of the chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours, the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, secure and available.
3. From professional furniture glue for edges It is worth noting the products from Kleiberit. The company offers adhesive adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material by the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

What kind of edges are, as well as about the ways of gluing them and how to glue the edge with iron and hairdryer, you will learn from this article.

1. The most common view - edge melamine with glue on paper basis. It is used to finish the inner sections of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the highest quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, rapidly wear out. It is easily glued at home by a simple iron.
2. T-shaped flexible profile - represents a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. The damaged element is further conveniently replaced without flashing furniture. For installation, the milling machine will be required.
3. PVC Cant - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is distinguished by wear resistance, resistance to moisture. To glue the PVC Cant, the edge processing machine will be required, so the use of this type of edges at home is difficult.
4. ABS plastic is an eco-friendly version without chlorine. It is valued for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue And with glue.

The average cost of the profile for one time-meter:

• PVC thickness of 0.4 mm - about 25 rubles,
• PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
• Material from melamine for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, they actively use products from Rehau, which offers a large selection of color solutions, as well as different ribbon widths from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that calculate how many materials will be required for gluing edges.

PVC edge - how to glue at home

To work will be required:

• iron or construction hairdryer,
• and of course buy PVC edge with glue
• hard roller
• newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated so that the glue becomes sticky. Heating is performed by iron in synthetic mode.

• The profile is applied to the end so that it overlaps the end of the site.
• Next, the iron is again performed through the newspaper. Since glue dissolves quickly, the process is active enough, and the iron is conveniently moving along the PVC edge.
• The edge itself needs to be carefully pressed and stroke until it sticks along the entire length.

1. Priphescing with a construction dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a construction hairdryer. PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired site, clamp and gently smoothed.
2. Glitting with the help of "moment" glue. This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The end quality is checked manually, remove sawdust, litter, dust, until the surface is clean. Then on the material, and glue and wait for the end and wait until it grab. After that, apply and pressed. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grab quickly.

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to gently glue the edge from the first time, the procedure will have to be reused. To do this, glue again and pinch a profile using a roller or manually.

Since usually the PVC edge width is taken with a margin, you need to safely remove the surplus along the edges. To do this, use the usual stationery knife or file. It takes both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the extra pieces are laid out and the edge remains that coincides in the width with the site.

After everything glued, it will remain to treat the irregularities of sandpaper.

The melamine edge is the best option for use at home, when it is necessary to restore the old furniture with minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals that use another more expensive and high-quality material.

Consider how to glue the edge on the worktop from chipboard At home.

Great video on the topic

The following materials will be required for work:

• sking
• sharply sharpened knife jamb,
• roller for gluing wallpaper
• melamine edge
• construction hairdryer or iron.

1. choose an iron operation mode so that it does not heat up too much and burns the chipboard and at the same time ensured proper melting of glue,
2. edges of chipboard under the sticking to handle sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
3. measure profile
4. it is necessary to heat it with an iron and tightly press to the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, it will take self-applying glue to the edge, for example, the "moment" glue),
5. cut with a knife hanging edges.

Trim needed at an angle along the edge, slightly climbing the material. Then it will remain skin to handle edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.

If the edge of the edge and the chipboard itself, the details are slightly different, the simulator will help correct the difference.

In the case when the item has a complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material from the first time. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals in order not to spoil the product.

Types of adhesive

Furniture Professionals are actively used melt glues for edges. They are convenient if production is supplied to the stream, and it is required both high quality results and fast speed.

Melt adhesives are thermoplasts, that is, when heated, they become very elastic, and when cooled quickly solidify. For these properties, an ethylene polymer with vinyl acetate is responsible for these properties. The lack of use is to attribute the need to use special equipment, namely the corresponding machines or manual pistols for applying glue into parts and warm it up.

1. In domestic conditions, PVC glue is often used, which gently glues paper materials to different surfaces. Uniform without lumps of light color Mass well glues the surface, but moisture is afraid. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for the operation of non-professional masters.
2. Universal adhesives "Moments and" 88-Suite ", which reliably stick the material to the surface of the chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours, the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, secure and available.
3. From professional furniture glue for edges It is worth noting the products from Kleiberit. The company offers adhesive adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material by the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

Today I once tried to glue 0.4 mm PVC edge Iron. My previous attempts suffered a fiasco (the edge melted before the adhesive, it was bored even at the minimum levels of heating. In general, nothing could be obtained). Based on these experiments, I concluded that it was not possible at all. I repent, it was wrong - thanks to the guys - they were convicted. He took another iron - Ponuhee and again took up experiments.

Since I do not have an impurcting machine, I decided to use the method of applying glue from the melamine edge directly to the workpiece, which I also read somewhere on the spackers of the cobweb. To work, I needed an iron (more precisely two - cm.nizh), grinding lumps (it's best not with abrasive, and with felt it will fill in the next photo), the edge of the melamine - the color of any, the edge of PVC (which we will glue) and the metal ruler Or such a carbon is mostly cited both types of edges (in the photo it can be seen that PVC without glue, while the melaminka has an applied thermal layer).

To begin with, the workpiece is fixed on the workbench, it is desirable vertically.

Then we apply a piece of melamine edge to it and smooth it with a hot iron (the heating regulator is set onto the second position).

Signing in one direction, we begin the movement of the iron to another, taking off the edge until the glue has cooled.

We see that glue remains on the workpiece.

Another photo, more visual. It can be seen that on the melamine tape of glue almost no left, while he is present on the workpiece.

Now cut off a piece PVC ribbons desired length (with a small traditional stock)

At first I tried to stick it again with my old iron (giving pre-cooled) the result is crying. The edge immediately bored.

Then I took the next-generation iron (which I spoke from the mother-in-law) and put it on the minimum.

He moved the edge ribbon to the right so that the deformed piece was not lying on the surface being processed and began to surpose it with the merry. The case is moving slower than with.

Warming in one direction, we start moving the iron into the return, smoothing the edge ribbon after him with his palm.

Surplus from the ends are perfectly amenable to simple scissors.

The slice is perfectly smooth and does not require additional finishing. (But if necessary, you can have a couple of times a storage with a small abrasive).

For trimming over the edges, it is advisable to put horizontally. Personally, I have so much more convenient for me. They, as in the case of melamine, are perfectly amenable to a metal line, driven at an angle shown in the photo.

The slice turns out a little rough. It would be necessary to refill.
This is done by the felt bar, which under the tilt we make several movements along the verge.

Inverting the workpiece, I found the non-flip zone. Not pleasant, but not deadly.

We again take over the iron and press seconds for 20-30 uncrowned plots.
Then the iron is changed to felt bar, which also press it before cooling the glue.

As a result, it turns out such a missed PVC shop end.
This technique is quite suitable for large parts, especially when the melamine edge is not suitable, and the edge for some reason is not available. But in time, it is sufficiently cost.