Parquet has been used as a floor covering for a long time. Its presence in the house is not a cheap pleasure, but better material for finishing the floor can not be found. It will last for more than a dozen years, if behind it take care of.

The grooming process itself consists of two stages: sanding the parquet and covering it with a protective material, usually varnish. Grinding is not an easy procedure, it is performed mainly by professionals, but you can try and do everything with your own hands.

Equipment

The main tool for sanding parquet is Sander.

It is presented on the market in several types, which differ from each other in the working part:

• drum type... The design uses two drums with abrasive material mounted on them;
• tape. It differs from the previous model in that it uses a fairly wide abrasive belt. This provides a greater coverage of the grinding area;
• disc or surface grinding... Usually used for grinding hard-to-reach places(for example, under radiators) and for fine finishing floor. There are professional three-disc machines;
• vibration. This is a subtype of the disc model, but more versatile. With its help, you can carry out both rough and final grinding;
• eccentric. Most modern look grinders that work quickly and efficiently due to a special design (displacement of the axis of rotation of the grinding body relative to the axis of the shaft);
• corner. This is a subspecies of the disc model that is used to handle hard-to-reach areas.

It should be noted that a sander is expensive equipment. It is better not to purchase it for one-time use. Usually it is rented, since this service is now provided in many cities. In addition to this machine, you will need sandpaper, a vacuum cleaner, brushes and a roller to grind parquet flooring.

Room preparation

First of all, the room must be freed from the furniture that is on the floor. Since there will be a lot of dust, it is advisable to cover everything that cannot be taken out with a film. Then the skirting boards are removed. After that, it is necessary to examine the parquet floor itself for the strength of fixing each die to the floor base. If such defects were found, you need to repair them.

Usually the die is removed (it can be replaced with a new one if the old one turned out to be with large defects), the base under it is cleaned. And then they are laid on an adhesive composition.

If repair operations have been carried out, then it is necessary to allow time for the installed elements to adhere well to the floor.

First step

The grinder is charged with an emery tape or a disc is placed on it. For the first pass, that is, roughing, you will need coarse sandpaper. Material number 40 is usually used.

Note! The first pass is carried out along the grain of the wood. This will ensure an even cut of the top layer without difficulty.

An important point is correct setting working body of the machine. Or rather, its degree of pressure to the parquet. To do this, you need to use the clamping screw. It's important to catch here the golden mean: squeezed - you got overheating of the engine of the device and a thick cut of the upper layer of the floor covering, did not put the squeeze - reduced the quality of polishing of the parquet.

Stop the machine periodically to check the wear of the abrasive. The stop can be carried out only when the vehicle is in motion, if the shutdown is carried out on the stationary equipment, then there is a high probability that a depression will appear on the floor at the place of the stop.

Sanding with coarse grit should be carried out until the floor is completely level. You can move the machine for a new pass by half the width of the sander.

Second phase

Before proceeding to the finishing sanding of the parquet, it is necessary to putty the gaps between the wooden planks. For this, special putty solutions based on acrylic are used. After they dry, you can proceed to the final treatment of the floor, which is based on the operations of smoothing out minor flaws left after the initial sanding.

To do this, the machine will have to change the abrasive material to a finer grained one. Usually number 120 is used, and the first pass is made, removing minor defects. The surface of the parquet can be brought to the maximum smoothness with sandpaper number 150-180. For household use this is optimal sizes, the smaller it makes no sense to apply. In this case, the transition from larger to small grains must be carried out smoothly.

Sanding hard-to-reach areas

This operation cannot be considered a separate stage. Sanding hard-to-reach places on the parquet is carried out in the same way as the main surface of the floor. That is, first, an abrasive with coarse grains is used, then they are putty, and last but not least - finishing using fine-grained abrasive material.

It is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of the work carried out. First, the main surface of the parquet is sanded, then hard-to-reach areas. If it is not possible with machines to grind some areas, then you will have to carry out everything manually. For this, a cycle is used to carry out the first stage and sandpaper, set on a trowel or other device, for the final grinding.

Floor covering with varnish

The easiest way to check that the parquet floor is one hundred percent ready for varnishing is to run your palm over its surface. If the hand did not feel any flaws, felt the smoothness of the plane, then we can assume that the parquet is ready.

The next operation is dedusting, for which a conventional vacuum cleaner is used. It should be noted that all models of modern sanders are equipped with dust collection bags. But small particles of wood will still penetrate from gaps and crevices, so that a thin layer of them will eventually settle on the floor. We must get rid of him.

Now about varnishing the parquet. This stage is not easy because the varnish is applied in several layers. In this case, it is necessary that each layer dry well before applying the next one. This can take at least 4-5 hours. But the longer the varnish dries, the better. The stages of coverage are as follows:

• priming;
• after it dries, it is necessary to sand it using a diamond mesh numbered 220;
• applying two layers of varnish, each of which is also sanded;
• the last layer should dry well. Then it is additionally treated with a special gel, which fixes the varnish.

The very process of applying varnish is carried out with a roller; a brush is used in hard-to-reach places. There are several requirements for the varnishing process. Windows and doors in the room must be closed, drafts must not be allowed. Optimum temperature parquet varnishing: + 22… 25 ℃.

As for the choice of varnish, the market today offers several types, which are based on different raw materials: acrylic and urethane, linen and wood resins. The most environmentally friendly are water-soluble varnishes. Acid-curing and polyurethane varnishes are more durable.

It should be noted that resin-based varnishes are toxic and take a very long time to dry. Perfect option- water-soluble, but with a caveat: they can only be used in heated rooms.

When there is no point in sanding your parquet floor

It makes no sense to renew the coverage only if it is badly damaged. Factors of the impossibility of sanding parquet include:

• flooding of the floor, due to which the wooden blocks swelled and warped;
• the parquet floors have dried out to such a state that gaps of more than 5 mm have formed between them;
• the floor is completely or partially covered with mold or fungi, it was corroded by a woodworm beetle;
• large defects in the form of potholes, chips and cracks;
• the parquet has worn down to such a state that the thickness of the dice has become less than 5 mm.

All these defects are the reasons for improper or difficult use of the floor covering. Often, the reasons are the illiterate installation of the material and the use of low-quality parquet, for example, from undried wood.

Features of grinding parquet boards

It should be noted right away that for grinding a parquet board with your own hands, you must already have some experience in handling grinders. The board is covered with decorative wood veneer on top, and it is important not to wipe it through. Sanding for parquet boards is a gentle renovation, as a very thin layer of material is removed.

Note! It is not advised to grind a parquet board of a floating floor yourself, as this can lead to disengagement of the locks between the dies or slippage of the drum.

It is also not recommended to process the material covered with special protective layers of wear-resistant varnish, patina, tinting. Grinding will damage the protection and it will be impossible to restore it. A simple, natural-colored board is sanded in the same way as parquet, but even more accurate and with a more precise adjustment of the thickness of the top layer.

Wooden parquet is a reliable and durable floor covering. Do-it-yourself parquet sanding will come to the rescue if the surface has lost its attractiveness.

And this can happen even with careful care, let alone those areas of the flooring on which they walk in street shoes, move furniture.

When shouldn't you sand your parquet?

Please note: in some cases, the elements of the flooring are so damaged that it makes no sense to sand them. This will not bring the floor into normal condition... Such serious damage includes the following cases:

1. The wood is too dry, causing gaps of 5 mm or more between the planks.
2. The surface is swollen by moisture.
3. The most worn spot has worn out to such a level that the top level of the worn planks is 5 mm or less from the connecting tongue.
4. The bumps and bumps are too deep.
5. The wood is exposed to moisture from below due to evaporation.
6. The tree is damaged by a beetle grinder.
7. The material is moldy or rotten.

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What will it take to work?

There are 2 methods of grinding: machine and manual. In the first case, more material resources will be required, and in the second - time and effort. Manual grinding is performed using a manual cycle. Alternatively, you can attach sandpaper to the sole of your shoe and sand the surface with your feet. These methods are quite time consuming.

A sander is required to simplify surface leveling. There are several types of such equipment, each of which is designed for a certain stage of work:

1. The drum sander is used for deep sanding of wood floor surfaces.
2. Flat grinders designed for fine sanding of parquet flooring. The equipment can be single-disk or three-disk. With the help of such a machine, you can make the surface perfect, but its cost is very high.
3. For the treatment of hard-to-reach areas, for example, under radiators, a “boot” with an abrasive wheel is used.

In addition to grinder, you will need an industrial vacuum cleaner to remove dust and emery scissors. The following materials are required:

• putty;
• sandpaper;
• oil or varnish;
• brushes and rollers;
• rubber spatula.

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Phased execution of work

The room needs to be freed of furniture, remove the baseboards and check if there are any torn off elements. If torn strips are found, then they must be glued in place. At this stage, the necessary repairs to the parquet are carried out. If the caps of screws or nails rise above the surface, they need to be drowned by 2-3 mm. Then the floor is washed and vacuumed. This completes the preparation, proceed to the main work.

Coarse emery is loaded onto the grinder drum. Depending on the nature of the finish of the parquet, its size is chosen:

• for removing varnish or drying oil - No. 16;
• for removing the top layer of wood and removing paint - No. 24-40;
• a universal option for any work - No. 60.

First, a typewriter traverses the rooms diagonally from one corner to another. After that, they move to one of the walls and lead the typewriter along the wall, and then parallel to it. With each next pass, you need to move 10 cm.

It is very important to keep in the correct direction of travel. Sanding should be done along the grain of the wood. Only on a U-turn is a short-term transverse passage allowed. For decorative parquet flooring with a spiral pattern, you must also move spiral from the edge to the center.

To prevent the formation of depressions on the surface, it is necessary to raise and lower the machine in motion. At the first stage of work, hard-to-reach places are skipped. It is necessary to adjust the pressure of the drum to the floor. For this, a special screw is provided in the machine.

To eliminate varnish stains in hard-to-reach places and in the center, a "boot" is used. If the poorly processed piece is located in the center, then the machine is moved from the edge of the spot to its middle in a circular motion. Near the edges and in the corners, movements are made from edge to wall and back to remove the top layer of the surface.

Next, fine grinding is performed with a surface grinder. As a result of this treatment, even the slightest defects should not remain on the surface: scratches, burrs, etc. The treatment is carried out 1 time with sandpaper No. 40, 60, 80 and 100. 1 time implies direct and reverse passes.

Then the parquet is putty. The floor is thoroughly vacuumed to remove dust from the cracks. Best for putty to use special composition imitating wood in color. Putty is carried out over the entire surface using a special rubber spatula... The composition must be evenly distributed to fill all the gaps between separate elements parquet and on their surface.

When the putty begins to dry out and is not sticky, but has not yet begun to harden, it is necessary to make an imitation of the joints. This work must be done very quickly. For this, a metal ruler and an awl are used. If you hold down the ruler with pressure, you can make curved seams.

Excess putty is removed by fine sanding. This is done only after the composition has completely dried. The parquet is sanded with a surface grinder with sandpaper No. 100. The drum pressure should be reduced, the direction of movement should be along the grain of the wood. Sanding is carried out until the surface is perfectly flat.

Recently, the use of natural building materials has become very fashionable, which makes us take a fresh look at the origins. And what could be more traditional and, of course, natural thanwooden floor in a house or apartment? The tree is able to perfectly fit into any interior design, regardless of whether it is in the form of parquet or ordinary boards... Moreover, modern technologies make it possible to paint a tree in any color, preserving its original texture.

And whatever the final result, work always starts with grinding. Only after it can the surface be tinted and covered with a protective layer. In addition, both new and restored old floors will have to be sanded.

The usual improvised means, alas, are indispensable when sanding wood. A special apparatus is required (or better, several), which is quite expensive. Of course, there is no point in buying this device for home decoration. Then what to do in such a situation?

There are two options:

• rent equipment and carry out all the work independently;
• resort to the help of specialists who will carry out high-quality grinding, but will require a considerable amount for this.

It is quite obvious that the first option is more convenient. But to be sure of this, you need to familiarize yourself with an approximate estimate of each of the options.

To find out how much it will costparquet sanding, you should first study the list of services offered. The fact is that firms engaged in conducting renovation works, always indicate what this or that value consists of. But let's not be unfounded, we will consider everything with an example.

The cost of services of repair organizations.

1. Pre-treatment, grinding and three-layer varnishing - about 650 rubles. per m².
2. Separate grinding with a drum apparatus - 210 rubles. per m².
3. A similar procedure with the use of surface grinding equipment - 210 rubles. per m².
4. Separate putty - 90 rubles. per m².
5. Separate matting - 90 rubles. per m².
6. Additional varnishing - about 90 rubles. for each "unplanned" layer.
7. Applying gel to parquet - 90 rubles. for each layer.

And now let's determine how much all these works will cost for 20 m². We will assume that the gel was applied in two additional layers, and the varnish in four. It turns out the following:

210x20 + 210x20 + 90x20 + 90x20 + 90x2x20 + 90x4x20 = 4200 + 4200 + 1800 + 1800 + 3600 + 7200 = 10 800 rubles.

It turns out that the services of a repair company for grinding will cost about 10,800 rubles.

Now let's see how much similar work done with our own hands will cost.

1. Grinding machine rental - about 1200-2400 rubles. per day.
2. Rent of a portable device - another 720 rubles. per day.
3. Abrasive material "number forty" - 210 rubles. per running meter.
4. Abrasive material "number one hundred and twenty" - 165 rubles. per running meter.
5. Putty - 3600 rubles. for five liters.
6. Special varnish - 12,000-18,000 rubles. for ten liters. The varnish consumption is usually 100 g. per m².
7. Toning - 3000 per liter. Approximate consumption - liter per m².
8. Other materials (brushes, roller, etc.) - another 4800 rubles.

Let's see what happens.

2400 + 720 + 210x2 + 165x2 + 3600 + 12000 + 3000x2 + 4800 = 14 600 rubles.

Of course, some materials (such as varnish or putty) will remain after work in a significant amount, and they can be used in the future. Nevertheless, self-polishing will cost almost 4000 rubles more than if it were performed by specialists.

But if this is not too strong an argument for you and you still intenddo it yourselfthen check out step by step technology performance of work.

What is required in the work

Before renting a car, you need to take care of everyone necessary tools(Why should the grinding machine be idle for paid hours?). Here is a list of everything you need:

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting sanding, you need to carefully prepare the wooden floor for this. For this:

• all furniture is taken out of the room;
• old nails are removed or recessed;
• skirting boards are dismantled;
• the strength of fixation of all dies is checked (if reconstruction of the old parquet is planned).

Note! Every modern grinder is equipped with a special dust bag. But this does not mean that there will be no dust at all - so that it does not penetrate into neighboring rooms, you need to cover the doorways with a damp cloth.

Second phase. Surface treatment

First you needfill the sander with sandpaper... For the first pass, the coarsest abrasive is often used (often “number forty”). The first pass should be carried out diagonally, moving in the direction of the "grain" of the parquet.

The device has a special screw, with the help of which the drum pressure is regulated on floor surface... It is very important that the pressure is correctly adjusted before starting work, because if it is not enough, then the quality of grinding will significantly deteriorate from this. Excessive pressure will put a heavy load on the engine. It is very simple to determine that the engine is not doing well: its speed decreases, the sound of the device changes.

Note! The sander consumes 2.5 kilowatts per hour. Therefore, you need to make sure that the electrical wiring and equipment in the building can withstand this load. Also, do not forget about the starting load, which is created by the engine of the apparatus.

In the course of grinding work, the sanding paper must be changed, visually determining the degree of its wear. The engine of the device can be turned on / off only while driving. The fact is that if you stop a working device, then on the floor covering, as a result, there will be noticeable traces, which will be extremely difficult to eliminate.

Grinding with a coarse abrasive should be continued until it is completely leveled and the differences between the dies are leveled. Each time the machine is shifted for a new pass, it must be shifted half the drum width.

Stage three. Grinding works

Upon completion of the pre-treatment of the parquet, you should proceed directly to its grinding. At this stage, all defects formed as a result of preparation are eliminated. The surface of the material must be smoothed until the irregularities and roughness disappear completely. As a result, the parquet should be smooth and pleasant to the touch.

To do this, it is necessary to use sandpaper with a lower grain size, gradually reducing the grain size. If the gaps between the dice were putty, then before starting sanding, you should also remove the rest of the putty.

Stage four. Processing of hard-to-reach places

Actually, this can hardly be considered a separate stage, since it must be carried out in parallel with grinding. To treat floors on corners, stairs and under heating radiators, it is desirable to use a portable grinder, which is also called a "boot". Such a device will allow you to process even the most inaccessible places.

One more important point: such grinding is recommended to be carried out in stages, that is, the passage in the center of the room is completed → the corners are processed.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding. The final touch

For last stage you need to use a fine-grained "sandpaper". It is used to remove minor imperfections left over from previous stages of surface treatment. It is characteristic that pressure drum in this case should be the minimum... The sander needs to be moved in the direction of the "grain" of the parquet.

Note! To check the quality of this work, you just need to run your hand over the material - it must be smooth.

First you need to thoroughly vacuum the surface to evenly apply the varnish. If you do not do this, then in the future, dirt will be visible under the varnish layer.

Varnishing is perhaps the most crucial stage in parquet sanding, because if you do something wrong, you will have to re-pretreat it (and sanding, of course).

The varnish should be applied in at least three coats., taking a four-hour break after each application to dry. If you wait longer, it doesn't hurt - rather, quite the opposite. You can first apply a primer. The varnish must be applied with a roller, the procedure should be carried out quickly and immediately throughout the room (the fact is that the varnish dries very quickly). If solidification occurs unevenly, the entire procedure will have to be repeated again.

After the first layer has dried, the parquet should be sanded again to remove the raised pile. For this, a special device should be used - it is called an angle grinder - and abrasive material "number one hundred" or "number one hundred twenty". Then the parquet should be vacuumed again, and at the same time the walls and ceiling - it is likely that some of the dust has become electrified and adhered to them.

After that, the remaining layers of varnish are applied, after which the floor must be vacuumed again.

As a conclusion

If you study all the available information on grinding work and have all necessary equipment, then you can easilysand the parquet on your own... But if, after reading this material, you have doubts about the advisability of such a step, then again we recommend that you seek help from specialists. After all, there is no better assistant in the quality performance of work than many years of experience.

Video - Parquet grinding

Installing the parquet itself is just the first step in achieving a beautiful flooring. To achieve the desired result, you will need to conduct whole line works such as surface leveling, sanding and varnishing. All the same measures are taken in case of restoration of the old parquet.

What is the difference between sanding parquet and scraping

To date, manufacturers are represented by big choice modern instruments High Quality. But before proceeding with the review of the most popular equipment, it should be clarified how grinding differs from scraping.

Sanding - means manual sanding of parquet with cycles. With this device, chips are removed.

Grinding is carried out with special parquet grinders. Depending on the settings and attachments, they grind at different depths and surface smoothness.

But even among professional builders, the first stage of parquet processing is usually called scraping, and all subsequent ones - grinding. But there are no special machines for scraping, just some models of grinding machines can also perform primary processing.

Parquet sanding technology:

• The first stage is primary scraping. Rough scraping of the parquet surface is performed with drum or belt sanders.
• The second stage is grinding. Belt grinders with finer-grained abrasives are used. For hard-to-reach places, angle grinders are used.
• The third stage is finishing grinding. With the help of surface grinders, three-disc or single-disc, the parquet is given a perfectly flat surface.
• Stage four. Application of varnish and protective gel.

Parquet Grinding Equipment

Drum-type parquet grinders

It is the most common and versatile tool. They perform scraping and grinding work. The machine has a simple and reliable design. It is produced with two types of grinding drums - centrifugal and rolling. Works with consumable abrasive materials of all manufacturers. With a drum sander, the surface treatment is carried out taking into account the fibrous structure of the wood parquet and can be carried out in three directions.

Parquet belt sanders

They are used for sanding and scraping large areas and for working on rough surfaces. The machine is designed in such a way that the center of gravity is low, which creates a snug fit to the work surface. In turn, this makes working with it easier, because no additional effort is required. They come in different capacities, but the higher it is, the more work can be performed without interruption.

To increase the specificity of tasks, belt sanders are equipped with abrasive belt speed regulators. It can be easily removed independently, and the new one is installed no less reliably. Depending on the function of the abrasive belt (for scraping or sanding), it has different width and graininess. In some more expensive models automatic belt centering is already provided.

Angle grinders

They are designed for hard-to-reach areas. The working element in the grinder is a grinding disc, which can be flat, dish-shaped, cup, polishing, etc. Modern models are equipped with many useful options: maintaining a constant speed, speed control, protected from unintentional switching on, "soft start".

The most popular power tool manufacturers whose quality remains on high level for many years: Makita, Bosch, Black & Decker, Sparky, Metabo, Atlas Copco.

Disk grinding machines for parquet

Most often, surface grinders are used during the finishing sanding of parquet flooring. Three-disc and one-disc surfaces are treated before tinting and for varnishing the parquet.

They are produced in different sizes and with a wide range of attachments. This is necessary for maximum maneuverability in hard-to-reach parts - near pipes, under batteries, etc. They are a good alternative to angle grinders.

The most popular brands of disc machines: Janser, Lagler, Bosch, Clarke, Atlas Sorso.

Vibratory Sanders

They are of the surface grinding type. But due to their versatility, they can be used not only for fine grinding, but also for rough primary processing. They work on the principle of reciprocating movements. The greater the vibration amplitude of the rectangular sole, the higher the speed of work. But the higher the speed, the lower the quality, therefore, a low amplitude of movement is chosen for finishing.

As Supplies, rectangular abrasive sheets of different grain sizes, dusting meshes and abrasive cloths are used.

Orbital Sanders

They combine the principle of work grinding wheel and vibration machine. As a result, a high-performance tool is created. Through the combination of motion and vibration, great quality parquet processing.

The performance is regulated by the diameter of the vibrating circle. But, the smaller it is, the higher the processing quality, and vice versa. The choice of speed is also important, a higher purpose for coarse grinding. When working with parquet, it is necessary to choose a low speed. The varnish with which it is covered is very sensitive to high temperature and friction.

Leading positions among manufacturers of eccentric and vibration machines are occupied by such companies as Bosch, DeWALT, Black & Decker, Metabo, Stomer.

Many grinders have a dust bag, which can significantly reduce the amount of dust during operation, but does not completely eliminate it.

The most popular cars have been described above. But this is not all that the parquet is polished with. In addition to them, there are several more types: delta grinder, straight grinder, pneumatic grinder, etc. They are universal and are used not only for wood processing, but also when working with concrete or metal surfaces.

How to sand parquet with your own hands

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding is done in several stages. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Preparing parquet for sanding

Before starting work, all furniture is taken out of the room. Now you can carefully examine the parquet flooring completely, revealing all the shortcomings. For a high-quality result, it is required to tap each plank of the parquet. If the sound is muffled, it means that it has come unstuck, and a void has formed under it. It is not difficult to fix this, it is enough to drill a thin hole in it, pump parquet glue through a construction syringe, press down with a load on top and let it dry.

The surface must be thoroughly washed, remove all screws and nails. V otherwise you can quickly damage the abrasive paper.

Tools and material for polishing parquet

To sand the parquet with your own hands you will need:

• parquet grinder with the ability to cycle. The tool is expensive, but affordable if you rent it. They process the main area of ​​the parquet;
• manual belt or angle grinder for processing hard-to-reach places;
• manual cycle. Useful for scraping parquet in very difficult to access places;
• multiple tapes sandpaper... The lower the number, the coarser the grain of the skin. To work with parquet you will need No. 120,80,60,40;
• putty for wood, for covering the cracks in the parquet;
• high quality parquet varnish;
• vacuum cleaner and small tools at hand (screwdriver, scissors, rags, etc.)

Having prepared the room, material and tools, you can proceed directly to the parquet sanding.

Parquet scrapping

For scraping, you need a belt-type sander with abrasive paper # 40. With this machine, the main area of ​​parquet is processed with an indentation of about 10 cm from the wall. Manual belt or disk sanders for parquet are used along the walls.

Tip: Do not use hand-held sanders to grind the entire floor area. This will lead to pits and other irregularities.

The purpose of this stage of work is to remove the old varnish coating and level the surface of the parquet. Grinding is done first along the room, and then across. It is especially important to closely monitor the condition of the abrasive cloth. Strongly worn out, it will burn the parquet, leaving on it dark spots... A three-meter rule is used to check the looped floor. Unevenness under it should not exceed 2 mm.

After rough scrapping, scratches and nicks always remain on the floor, which is the norm. They are removed by the following grinding with skins No. 60, and then No. 80. Work is also carried out - far and wide. The exception is when the parquet is laid parallel to the walls. In this case, it is polished only along the laying line. And when laying with a herringbone - diagonally. At this stage, the unevenness of the parquet should not exceed 1 mm.

Parquet putty

When the parquet is sanded with 80 sandpaper, it is puttyed. The putty for these works is selected according to the texture and color similar to wood. A water-based acrylic putty is often used or the sawdust left over from scraping is mixed with parquet varnish... Using a metal spatula, the gaps between the slats are filled with the mixture.

Finishing sanding of parquet

After the putty has hardened, the parquet is sanded with finishing abrasive paper # 120. It will be necessary to relieve the pressure of the grinder on the floor using a special adjusting screw, which is equipped with all modern models.

The direction of grinding is exactly the same as in the previous stages of work. As a result, the parquet should be perfectly smooth, which is quite easy to check by running your hand over it. Now it is important to remove all dust very carefully with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

On average, all these parquet sanding processes take about 6 hours.

Varnishing polished parquet

Before the start of varnishing, all windows in the room are closed to avoid drafts. The optimum temperature for work is 22-24 degrees.

Parquet is varnished in several stages:

• a primer is applied as the first layer;
• then, alternately three layers of varnish are applied. Grinding is carried out between each layer with a diamond mesh R-220;
• a glossy gel is used as a finishing coat to fix the varnish.

How to grind parquet correctly, in more detail, is shown in the video.

How to choose a parquet varnish

Parquet varnishes are classified according to the degree of gloss and wear resistance.

Haze depends on the amount of passive filler in the varnish composition. By changing the proportions, glossy, semi-matt and matt varnishes are produced. But this filler settles at the bottom, so the varnish is thoroughly mixed before application.

The durability of the varnish is selected based on the functionality of the room in which the parquet is laid. For the home, varnishes with low or medium resistance are suitable, for more crowded places they are chosen with increased abrasion resistance.

Types of varnishes:

• Polyurethane varnishes. They are also made on the basis of solvents, acrylic or urethane. Their advantages include high elasticity, heat resistance, good adhesive qualities and UV resistance. Copes well with high loads, are not afraid household chemicals and high humidity... The downside is that the polyurethane varnish glues the strips. And when moisture gets in during varnishing, it begins to foam.

• Water-soluble varnishes. This is a fairly new product. It hardens after evaporation of water, forming a film. They practically do not emit harmful chemical substances, and are not inferior in strength to other types of varnishes. Suitable only for rooms with a constant positive temperature. The most wear-resistant is acrylic-polyurethane varnish, and acrylic varnish will need to be renewed periodically.

• Oil-based varnishes. These are urethane alkyd and alkyd varnishes made from linseed or wood oil, which allows them to penetrate deeply into the wood. They do not glue the planks of the parquet, and the coating is non-slip. But they are toxic and dry for a long time.
• Acid-curing varnishes. They are made on the basis of directly varnish and hardener. It has the highest wear-resistant qualities, undemanding to temperature and humidity. The disadvantages are strong odor and strong sticking of the planks.

Dust-free parquet sanding

The only way to renew the old parquet is to scrape, cover up the cracks, sand and varnish. But many owners parquet floors in no hurry to return him to its former beauty. And this is due to the prospect of dusty and noisy work. Indeed, wood dust, which is formed when the old coating is removed, penetrates everywhere and eats into furniture and curtains.

But all these works can be done without dust. Majority modern models parquet grinders are equipped with dust collectors. If we add to this the absence of drafts in the room, then the dust will practically not fly away. For additional protection, a static film is used, which covers the walls of the room in which the work is carried out.

Grinders with powerful dust collectors and high-quality filters are very expensive and only available. professional builders... If you are confident in your abilities, then you can contact one of the firms and rent a tool. It is especially important to use such machines for processing parquets made of precious woods - wenge or walnut. This is due to the fact that the dust of these wood species has coloring elements. Therefore, when it settles on furniture or walls, it can paint them, but it will be almost impossible to clean them.

Of course, the grinder will not be able to completely collect dust during operation, but still most of it settles in the dust collectors. This means that they are perfect for the restoration of old parquet in already finished rooms.

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Wooden parquet is one of the most reliable and durable floor coverings... But everything wears out over time and loses its former attractiveness. Shoes, heavy furniture, flooding - all this leads to the destruction of even this resistant material like parquet.

Floor cut with parquet board.

What to do in such a situation? Really change such an expensive coating? There is an easier way out - do it yourself sanding the parquet.

How to sand parquet

Grinding scheme for parquet to remove old varnish.

This process includes several stages:

1. Removing the old varnish.
2. Cleaning the floor from dirt.
3. Floor sanding, which removes irregularities and surface imperfections.

The parquet is sanded before applying a new layer of varnish or tinting agent.

If you apply varnish to unpolished parquet, then all scratches and defects resulting from use will be visible on it. Therefore, high-quality polishing of parquet is a guarantee of durability and attractiveness of the floor.

But parquet polishing also has its own indications. It makes no sense to restore an old and dry coating - it is easier to replace it.

Parquet grinding scheme to remove cracks and chips.

When sanding doesn't save the day:

• the material has crumbled so that the gaps between the parquet planks reach 5 mm;
• the parquet was swollen due to the flood;
• abrasion of the coating in some places and the formation of surface irregularities;
• the wood is affected by insects;
• the appearance of mold in the room;
• wetting of the floor due to fumes from below.

In the latter case, it is necessary to remove the old coating, lay a waterproofing film on the base and only then lay the new parquet.

All of these problems arise due to improper installation, undried material, and severe operating conditions. Do-it-yourself sanding of the parquet eliminates defects in all other cases.

Before sanding the parquet, it is necessary to free the room from furniture and carefully clean the surface. Skirting boards should also be removed.

Parquet Grinding Tools

Cycling surfaces.

Grinding work can be performed both manually and using special machines. If it is not possible to rent expensive equipment, then you can use the manual cycle. This is a metal plate with a curved and sharpened edge, which is convenient for removing old varnish.

Sanding allows you to remove the varnish to a great depth, even in the most inaccessible places. But this way restoration is quite difficult, since you have to do everything manually.

Restoration will be a quality method. parquet flooring by means of grinding machines.

The grinding process consists of several stages, each of which uses its own type of equipment;

1. Drum-type parquet grinder. This mechanism removes deep layers of the old coating. This machine consists of a 200 mm wide drum and a pump that collects the chips. An abrasive material is attached to the drum, which cycles the surface.
2. Single-disc and three-disc surface grinder. This equipment is used for fine sanding of parquet before tinting or varnishing. Such a device is very popular, as it is multifunctional and reliable. However, not everyone can afford such an expensive machine.
3. "Shoe" is a type of grinding equipment designed for grinding hard-to-reach places: under radiators, in the corners. These machines are unified: they are equipped with abrasive wheels and a dust collector.
4. The industrial vacuum cleaner is designed to remove dust after grinding.

Parquet renovation tools.

Sanders - convenient device but expensive. They are mainly acquired by firms that deal with parquet floors... If we are talking about one-time grinding at home, then it is more expedient to rent such equipment.

To make the surface smooth, you will need more additional tools and materials:

• sandpaper;
• putty;
• brushes and rollers;
• rubber spatulas;
• sandpaper scissors;
• keys for attaching the abrasive to the machine.

Emery paper will need different grain sizes: No. 40, 60, 80, 100, 120. For an area of ​​20 m², one sample is consumed, which is fed into the machine.

The putty is used to fill the seams between the parquet planks. This will require about 5 kg of material. The varnish is bought at the rate of 5 kg per 10 m².

Parquet sanding technology

Grinding work begins with a rough finish. To do this, fill the machine with abrasive paper No. 40 and pass the room diagonally in two directions.

The drum sander moves diagonally from wall to wall. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the processed tracks overlap each other by 5 cm.

Scheme of the manual cycle.

The force with which the drum of the machine works is regulated by a screw. When performing work, it is necessary to monitor the engine load: it should neither overload nor slow down.

In country houses, voltage drops occur. If the mains voltage is low, then the engine speed will decrease. If this happens, then it is necessary to reduce the pressure of the drum on the floor, and also disconnect other electrical appliances from the network.

As the sandpaper wears out, it should be changed. Coarse abrasive evens the floor and removes dirt. The roughing step should be repeated until the surface is sufficiently clean and level. When grinding, a layer of material of 0.5-07 mm is removed. If the parquet board is thinner than 2 mm, then it cannot be sanded.

After processing the main area, they begin to grind hard-to-reach places with a special "boot" device, the design of which is described above.

When finishing, use fine abrasive No. 120 and grind along the walls. At this stage, minor imperfections are eliminated, after which the surface becomes smooth and shiny.

When the parquet is restored, it can be varnished. Water-based varnishes are often used for this material. This is a mistake, as the wood can swell from moisture and delaminate.

Therefore, the parquet floor should be coated in two layers with a solvent-based varnish, followed by a water-based coating.

The ideal option would be to apply a primer to the wooden floor, and then varnish it.

You can also use a hard oil-wax coating to wooden floors... This substance prevents wood from swelling. Despite the excellent recommendations regarding of this substance, it is quite difficult to apply it and it is much more difficult to care for such a coating.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding helps to restore the old flooring with minimal costs. This seemingly simple procedure refreshes the floor and gives it its former beauty.