Grinding a log house is a monotonous, dusty job that requires constant attention and dexterity with a power tool. Entrust this work to us. The guys in the brigade are specialists, they know how to properly grind a log house and will be able to please you with quality.
We are polishing log cabins in the Smolensk, Moscow region, Leningrad region.

For complex work (grinding, painting, caulking) and large volumes of work, we travel to other areas of the Central Region.

The cost of polishing 1 square meter of a log wall is from 250 rubles.

It is worth polishing the log house correctly and with high quality 250 rubles per square meter of the treated surface. This is the price of polishing a log house to a height of 2 meters from the surface of the earth or floor. To grind a wall above two meters, you need to install scaffolding or work from the stairs. Accordingly, the work will cost a little more. The cost of polishing a log house is more than two meters from the floor from 300 rubles square meter.

The cost of grinding work in cramped conditions (niches, rooms less than 2 sq. M.) Is negotiated on the spot.

handmade log house grain 80	250 R. m \ sq.
log house from OTSB grain 80	250 R. m \ sq.
log house grain 80	250 r m \ sq
grinding prof. timber	300 r sq.m
fine grinding of a log house grain 100	120 r m \ sq.
grinding of ends	100 r m \ pogo
ripping off an old log house grain 36-40	300 r m \ sq
polishing painted logs	300 r m \ sq
grinding of beams, rafters, crossbars	300 r m.
floorboard lining, blockhouse	from 300 r m \ sq

The cost of polishing a log house is indicated for one pass. This is usually enough.

If you need to additionally process something, then we can always agree on the price of grinding.

To grind the log house correctly

At the right approach to polishing a log house, under one pass it is worthwhile to mean grinding a log cabin with an angle grinder with a nozzle with a grain of 80. This is quite enough for logs from the street side. Of course, if you look closely, you can see very small horizontal ribs from the sander pass, but they are removed in the second pass. The second pass is performed by an eccentric machine on which a disc with grain 80 is installed.

If we agree to grind your log house indoors, then it makes sense to start right away with a grinder (grinder) with disc 80 to remove all irregularities and give the log one tone. And remove the nuances with an orbital with a 120 disc, for painting or varnishing.

We polish:

• houses, hand-chopped baths
• log-houses
• log cabins
• walls lined with clapboard, blockhouse, imitation of timber
• floors and ceilings
• we work: Moscow, Smolensk, St. Petersburg

Why grind a log house

At its core " polishing of a log house"This is the preparation of a wooden surface for coating. And the better the preparation, the better your frame will be painted. Look, the difference is clearly visible in the photo. After the second pass. Can you imagine the beauty after painting?"

Take a closer look at the logs or beams from which your house is built. You will see remnants of bark, resinousness, small seizures and villi. If you do not grind the frame, these nuances will lead to the fact that:

1. paint or varnish will not lie on the wood smoothly and beautifully
   • under a layer of paint there will not be a surface with the same density, somewhere the paint will be absorbed more strongly, somewhere weaker. When the coating is dry, the irregularity will become clearly visible, you will begin to tint
2. paint consumption will increase by about 20%
   • all the villi and scuffs on the log will also need to be painted over on both sides, and there are quite a few of them
3. the service life of the protective and decorative coating will be reduced by 50%
   • due to the difference in the thickness of the coating, the sun, wind and frost very quickly, literally on next year make gaps in the paint, uncoated wood will begin to darken

There are three main points that make resurfacing a must.

But besides these frightening factors), there is also an aesthetic side. During sanding, the texture of the wood appears, all construction dirt is removed and the annual rings become clearly visible. The tree opens up and you can see the grain of the wood. Tinted impregnation or colorless varnish applied after sanding will highlight and emphasize all the true beauty of the wooden structure.

As a specialist, it seems obvious to me that it is better to invest money and polish the blockhouse initially than to regret painting the blockhouse with an expensive composition, and the next year, observing the peeling facade, still do the polishing and paint again. Miser pays twice).

We consider the area of ​​polishing of a log house

Let's say you need to grind a log house 6 by 8, 3 meters high. Add the length of all sides 6 + 6 + 8 + 8 = 28 and multiply by the height of 3 m. It turns out 84 sq. M. Taking into account the average roundness of the logs, a coefficient of 1.2 is applied, i.e. 84 x 1.2 = 102 sq. M

The result obtained is multiplied by the cost of polishing a log house - 250 rubles. The amount will not scare you.

Non-contact grinding method (logs / beams / imitation beams / block house / log houses)

RIKEDOM is a member of the Association "PROF for WOOD"

for Professional PROTECTION and finishing of WOODEN STRUCTURES

We have developed and implemented the abrasive-jet method of wood polishing as a basis for further painting of a log house. Professional painting materials that we use are produced in Germany, but we live and paint in Russia.

THEREFORE: Our wood protection technology is exclusive and developed specifically for Russian conditions.

You will get rid of the problem of constant regrinding and repainting of the log house. Elementary, fast, TIMELY maintenance is the key to maintaining the excellent condition of the log covering in the future.

Understanding this will definitely lead you to our company!

Popular grinding technologies

1. Grinding a log house from a rounded log with angular grinding machines has a number of disadvantages: the work takes much longer, it takes a large number of consumable grinding tools, it is problematic to grind a log / beam in the corners, bevels of glued beams, hard-to-reach places - all this requires manual sanding. However, you can do it yourself if you have necessary tool and time. Also, a significant drawback is the appearance of traces from grinding wheels on the surface of the walls (radial scratches, grooves), which are especially noticeable after painting.
2. Grinding a log house with sandblasting or abrasive-jet method. In this case, the procedure is very much faster, grinding the hard-to-reach areas of the ends and corners of the frame is especially easy. Only the grinding of the ends is done manually, but this is no longer so labor-intensive. The surface during sandblasting is obtained with light brushing, with the highlighting of the fabulous pattern of the tree, which gives the frame a unique flavor. If desired, you can perform deep brushing - to create a highlight for the interior.

Our company is the founder of wood block sandblasting in the quality in which we produce it. After abrasive blasting of the log / bar and when the right technology painting - the walls are getting luxury finishes. If you are interested in how much it costs to grind the walls of a log house by the abrasive-jet method - call or send a feedback form and a specialist will contact you.

Abrasive-jet grinding of RIKEDOM log buildings - differences from the traditional method

• Grinding of any kind of wood: logs, beams, lining, imitation, KELO pine.
• Unlike sandblasting, our sanding is very DELICATE and does not tear the wood. It can even be produced in log cabins with a warm seam!
• QUICKLY! High terms of execution - we grind up to 100m2 walls per day.
• Mini wood brushing effect - highlights the unique patterns of the wood. It looks very, very beautiful!

• Unlike "grinders" after our method of grinding, there are no marks and scratches. Grinding a log house using the abrasive-jet method does not encounter the problem of hard-to-reach places, for example, such as oblique bay windows, corners, chamfers of a bar, etc.
• THE MOST IMPORTANT - if grinders or brushes polish the wood, then our polishing, on the contrary, opens the pores of the wood, which significantly increases the absorbency of painting materials. This directly affects the durability of the coating! Link to video where you can clearly see the difference.

NEW HOUSE "INTERIOR"

GRINDING

Blowing off, cleaning after yourself

PAINTING
Priming according to ICS system
Interlayer sanding
Interlayer sanding
The third layer - if necessary - according to the ICS system
Consumable material (except varnish-and-paint materials)

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Scaffolding / scaffolding

RESTORATION "INTERIOR"

GRINDING

Abrasive blast grinding branded
Transportation costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing off, cleaning after yourself

PAINTING
Priming according to ICS system
Interlayer sanding
First impregnation layer according to ICS system
Interlayer sanding
Second impregnation layer according to ICS system
The third layer of painting - if necessary - according to the ICS system
Consumable material (except for paints and varnishes)

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Scaffolding / scaffolding
Delivery of paints and varnishes
Discount for varnish-and-paint materials - 20%
Carrying out "paint" on the object
Dismantling / installation of platbands, radiators
Shelter for floor / ceiling / electrical elements, etc.

NEW HOUSE "FASAD"

Departure for measurements of the geometry and humidity of the log house

GRINDING
Abrasive blast grinding branded
Transportation costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing off, cleaning after yourself

PROTECTION (PAINTING)
Priming according to ICS system
Interlayer sanding
Second impregnation layer according to ICS system

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Scaffolding
Carrying out paints on the object
Delivery of painting materials
Discount for varnish-and-paint materials - 20%

RESTORATION "FACADE"

Departure for measurements of the geometry of the log house

GRINDING
Analysis of the general condition and development of a finishing strategy
Preliminary preparation and restoration work (depending on the condition of the tree)
Abrasive blast grinding branded
Transportation costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing off, cleaning after yourself

PAINTING
Priming according to ICS system
The first impregnation layer (with deep feeding) according to the ICS system
Interlayer sanding
Second impregnation layer according to ICS system
Finishing hydrophobic / moisture control layer
Consumable material (except for paint and varnish materials)

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Full perimeter closure
Scaffolding / scaffolding
Closing window / door units
Delivery of paints and varnishes
Discount for varnish-and-paint materials - 20%
Carrying out "paint" on the object
Dismantling / installation of platbands, drainpipes, ebbs
Dismantling of the protruding intervenets material (except caulking)
Issuance of a corporate PASSPORT for warranty coverage

The price of polishing a log house for 1m2

FREE antiseptic treatment during the shrinkage of your log house

Spring is coming! And if you put the log house now or this winter, then it will "dry" for another summer period, which means that there is a high risk of blue, beetle, and darkening from UV. We suggest: treat your log house with a special antiseptic, which will give:

• Saves from UV! This is the most striking advantage, along with competitors. It excludes wood chapping, as well as its graying, which will facilitate the process of further log finishing.
• Saves from the appearance of blue, a beetle. Blue is a common frustration for future tenants, due to the spoiled aesthetics and the inability to use light colors of paint.
• Antiseptic with SALT, because nothing but salt is able to be absorbed into the "raw" wood

Taking care of you and your tree!

Video reviews about our work

Scheme of working with you:

Sign up for a consultation in our office by phone

2 hour

Consultation at the RIKEDOM office

Departure of the foreman to the object to determine accurate measurements

Signing the main contract. Departure of the brigade for a test-indicative square meter of grinding

Payment. Work at the facility

Delivery of work. Issuance of a PASSPORT for maintenance

Answers to your most common questions:

Coming to our office, you receive detailed advice on how we work and decide whether you need it or not. We also make a decision on the possibility of performing work at your facility. It is in the office, when communicating with managers, that a preliminary decision is made to carry out certain works. You can also find out the approximate price. For measurements of geometry and humidity, our foreman leaves to you only after consultation in the office. Why don't we just send a measurer? Because this is not serious, but we are a serious company. It is pointless to simply make measurements so that you get a price - until you understand the principle of our work. Not a single "measurer" possesses the vast practical experience that the head of the company possesses. For your convenience, packages have been developed, where the price is determined per square meter of a log house. You yourself can "roughly estimate" how much approximately square meters make up the walls of your home.

In other firms - a different technology of work, and therefore a different price. Our technology - from sanding to finishing painting - is aimed specifically at protecting the wood, that is, at the durability of the applied coating. This means that in the future you will not have to spend money again on regrinding and painting again. This is the fundamental difference - not to pay in the future again and again, as 90% of the owners of wooden houses with ordinary painting do. And, of course, RIKEDOM's works always stand out against the background of hundreds of painted houses.

For each house painted by us - a PASSPORT of warranty service is issued. That is, you need to understand that everything will be fine with the coating if you provide it with timely care.
In the process of work, a special Journal is filled out, which indicates which tools and material were used, a sketch of the structure indicating problem areas and other technical characteristics.

The VIP package was created for clients who want only the best and are used to maximum comfort. In addition to everything that is included in the FIRM, the VIP PACKAGE has additional privileges:
* 4-layer painting. That is, in addition to the priming and two obligatory impregnation layers on the facade or oil / glaze inside, another layer of the composition is added, with another thorough interlayer grinding. This procedure is invaluable for the facade, for its greater protection and durability! For interiors - the quality of the tactile sensations of the magnificent wood finish is significantly increased!
* Restoration: chips, wood chips sticking out, nail holes, etc. - we will restore everything, perfection will delight the eye.
* Creation of a closed perimeter: we put scaffolding around, cover it with canopies - dust from grinding will not scatter, neighbors (if houses are close), landscape and so on will not "suffer". And what is important - the "closed perimeter" helps to improve the quality of work, because when painting and installing a warm seam, rain and direct sunlight are unacceptable. And in autumn-winter period this shelter of the house allows you to heat the space inside the curtains and thereby comply with the technology.
* We remove and put back platbands, ebb tides, drainage system and other things that are needed to carry out the work.
* Individual selection of colors, free delivery of trial colors, as well as the paint and sealant itself.
* The most pleasant thing: PERSONAL control over the object from the company's management, as well as resolving all issues regarding the object with the company's leaders.

Because we do not look at the cans where the paint consumption is written. Our job is to power the tree, not just paint it. But the absorbency of wood depends both on the type of product, species and also on where the forest comes from. Different objects have different absorbency. Different logs also have different absorbency. We do not drip a couple of drops and do not stretch them into ten squares in order to save you paint. We will power it until the most important thing is ensured - the protection of the tree.
Therefore, the paint leaves on objects - in different ways. That is - the paint goes after the fact. So does the sealant. The thickness of the warm seam depends solely on the diameter and fit of your log, as well as the size of the gaps in the inter-crown space. Therefore, the seam is selected based on these parameters. To make it too narrow is just to tear the seam, to make it too wide is not beautiful and useless. The size of the seam is determined only by the master, and the consumption of the sealant directly depends on this.
At our consultation, you will receive only REFERENCE calculations for paint and sealant, based on our experience.

People with extensive experience in working with wood, with golden hands and a developed sense of responsibility. The core of our foremen and foremen does not change, we have been with them for more than 12 years. Of course, there are also beginners who are taught by the masters, this is how the staff expands. Judging by the amount positive feedback what we receive from clients, we can proudly say that we have the best professional staff!

What is the purpose of polishing a log house

Many people think that polishing a log house is needed solely in order to clean the tree from dust, dirt and give it a bright, healthy look. In fact, the main function of log polishing is to OPEN THE PORES OF THE WOOD for further deep feeding of the protective material.

Therefore, the further absorbency of the material directly depends on how the log was sanded. For example, a grit of 100-120-150 is often used for sanding the outside. wooden house... This is a gross mistake, since such, almost "polishing", the wood leads to the closure of the pores of the wood and paintwork materials are simply not able to absorb, which means they give protection to your log house.

Abrasive blast polishing of a log house is not measured in "grain size" and is designed to open the pores of the wood as much as possible. Grinding a log house using this method takes place “in one pass” and very carefully removes only “unnecessary” wood fibers, leaving them alive and healthy. Because of this, the price of polishing a wooden house using this method is often lower than the traditional one.

How much does abrasive blast grinding cost?

The price of our grinding includes consumable material - quartz sand. The grinding equipment operates autonomously, using its own diesel fuel, which is also included in the price. Judge for yourself, how much will the electricity consumed by grinders on a daily basis for even a month cost you?

The polishing of the log house is fast, due to the fact that it is carried out in just one pass and time is not wasted on hard-to-reach places, as in the case of grinders. All complex contact points - corners, chamfers, joints - are processed with sand as easily as any other wood surface.

Differences from sandblasting

Sandblasting dramatically differs in quality from abrasive blast grinding, since sandblasting equipment is simply not designed for such a delicate material as wood. In wood processing in this way, it is very important to preserve solid wood fibers, which are a kind of reinforcement of everything wood element... Sandblasting will often simply tear these hard fibers. The race for the speed of the performers of sandblasting leads to the fact that the frame after such grinding simply does not lend itself further painting, without preliminary "smoothing": pass with nylon brushes or wheels of high grain size. What do we get in the end? That's right - closing the pores of the tree again ... Meaning?

When to start polishing a log house?

When the frame reached a humidity of 25% and below, or was initially dry. It is not worth starting sanding without planning painting, because after sanding, the protection and painting of the wood must be done as soon as possible, otherwise the resin will come to the surface of the wood (the wood protects itself) and the sense from sanding will disappear.

Grinding timber and logs is a dusty process, so you need to plan it before the installation of rough floors inside, communications and other things. Interior decoration is usually broken down into two stages:

Sanding + priming + 1 coat: this is the first step.

After completing subfloors, wiring communications and other things: interlayer sanding and applying a finishing coat of paint.

When the work on polishing a log house is coming, the first question that arises before the master is: which tool to choose for sanding a wooden surface. If in the past for these purposes a chisel and sandpaper were mainly used, today the choice of different devices is huge. There are many different types of wood sanders available, but they are all quite expensive. But the angle grinder, or more simply, the grinder, is a universal tool that is available in almost every home and is great for grinding a wooden house. However, polishing a log house with a grinder has many nuances that need to be discussed in more detail.

Grinding wood with a grinder is the most common and affordable way to grind a wooden house. Usually angle grinder is used for grinding a log house made of planed logs. With the help of the grinder, it is also convenient to grind the grooves and ends of the logs. Actually, with this tool, if you have the skills to work, you can process any lumber. But in order for the work to go not to a burden, but to joy, it is necessary to choose the right grinder and attachments for it, as well as to know and follow the rules for working with this tool.

Model selection

There are both household and professional models that differ in power and performance. You should not buy the cheapest grinder, its power is unlikely to be enough for grinding the entire log house. Expensive professional models are also not the best choice for home use... They operate at high speeds, are distinguished by considerable weight and power. A layman, not the name of the skills to work with such a tool, can simply spoil the surface to be sanded, leaving dents on it.

It is best to opt for:

• semi-professional model with a capacity of 800 to 1000 watts. This will be enough to polish the frame.
• it is advisable to buy a tool not with a side, but with a rear air intake, so it will be less clogged with dust.
• you should also pay attention to the length of the cable. Too short a cord is inconvenient to work with.

Grinder attachments

For work, you will have to stock up on nozzles on which the abrasive is fixed. There are two types of attachments:

1. Rubber
2. Plastic.

It is more convenient to work with plastic attachments, although they are thinner than rubber ones, they last longer. Rubber nozzles quickly deteriorate, and besides, if a rubber nozzle accidentally touches wood, it will leave an ugly black mark on the surface of the wood, which is very problematic to remove.

For grinding, use conventional or flap grinding wheels. Log polishing is a very dusty job. A lot of dust is released, which, together with the wood resin, clogs into the disc, the abrasive is quickly erased, so the grinding wheels quickly become unusable.

One disc with rough processing is enough for about 3-5 meters of a log, then it has to be changed. Consumption depends on the condition of the wood and the type of surface. How many discs are needed for fine grinding depends on how carefully the initial processing was carried out.

More long term operation has an alphadisk, which is a metal disk, on the body of which a victorious crumb is soldered. Grinding a bar with an alpha disc allows you to significantly save on consumables. A disc clogged with sawdust can simply be cleaned with a metal brush and calmly continue to work.

Deresinization of the surface

Conifers are known to contain large amounts of natural resins. On the one hand, this circumstance is an advantage, since the resinousness protects the tree from rotting and the formation of mold. On the other hand, resin interferes with the good adhesion of paint to wood, and when sanding, it smears over the surface and spoils the appearance of the wood. Therefore, before processing the needles with a grinder, it is necessary to remove excess resin.

How to remove tar from a log before sanding? Solvents are suitable for this: acetone, white spirit, turpentine, refined gasoline. You just need to apply the selected product to wooden surface, and rinse off the remains with warm water.

The grinder is the main tool used for processing a block of chopped logs, the surface of which contains remnants of bark, knots, cracks and other defects.

1. For primary rough processing use:

• special grinding and polishing wheels;
• wire brushes;
• universal bases, to which replaceable coarse-grain emery nozzles No. 30-60 are attached.

The grinder with these attachments does an excellent job with uneven surface logs manual felling... As a result of primary processing, all more or less large defects and protruding parts are removed from the surface.

1. For stripping logs with old paintwork Bowl stripping bits with twisted wires work best.
2. The next stage after roughing is fine sanding, the purpose of which is to completely level the base and prepare the surface for painting or varnishing. It is carried out by grinding wheels with fine-grained attachments No. 80-120.
3. If polishing of logs is envisaged, this operation is best done using cloth nozzles.

It is not recommended to grind over the entire area at once. It is advisable to process the surface in parts, dividing the wall into certain zones. In this case, the grinding performance will be higher than when processing large areas.

Grinding of rounded logs and beams

Unlike hand-cut logs, rounded logs and beams have a smooth surface, which causes certain difficulties when processing them with a grinder. One awkward movement - and deep grooves and grooves will appear on the surface of a bar or a rounded log, which will remain there forever.

Working as a grinder is not for beginners, it requires certain skills. LBM is a high-speed machine and, if handled improperly, can damage the surface. Do not press the tool strongly against the area to be treated. Grinding should be done in smooth circular motions, holding the grinder at an angle of 45 degrees. Grinding and polishing of the timber should be done at low speed. High revolutions can lead to thermal destruction of the top layer of the wood.

Processing grooves and ends of logs

Grinding of grooves in logs is always done with a grinder. The grooves are processed with a nozzle of a smaller size than the disc. If the attachment and disc are the same size, it can cause the clipper to jam.

For processing the ends use grinding wheel with sandpaper size 40. Usually in these places they are limited to coarse and medium processing, without grinding the ends to perfect smoothness. Immediately after grinding, the ends are treated with protective impregnations and antiseptics.

Grinding errors with a grinder

The grinder is the most convenient and affordable tool for grinding, but in unprofessional hands it turns into a rather dangerous device, which, if mishandled, can cause many problems. Home craftsmen who do not have the skills to use an angle grinder very often make mistakes, which are the main reason for poor quality grinding.

A typical mistake is working with a grinder at high speeds. It is often difficult for inexperienced craftsmen to choose the optimal rotational speed of the disk. As a result, the tool literally "burns" the wood at high speed, damaging it face layer... In addition, high RPMs tend to quickly clog the abrasive with wood dust, which will shorten the life of the nozzle.

Another common mistake is pressing firmly on the appliance while sanding. This is the most common reason formation of dents and grooves on the body of a log and a bar, which spoil the appearance of the wood. It is not so easy to get rid of these marks; you will have to re-grind, which is not always effective.

Professional polishing of a log house

Specialists of the company "Master Srubov" offer professional grinding services. Our craftsmen are highly qualified and know all the subtleties and nuances of grinding with an angle grinder. We use a professional tool with the necessary set nozzle, which has high performance and provides great quality grinding. We provide a guarantee for all grinding work that will be completed on time. We are ready to perform grinding of any complexity and volume. You can contact us in any way using the coordinates that are in the section.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

After the completion of the construction of a log house, a grinding process follows, which will help to give the tree an aesthetic appearance and make it stronger. About the technology of polishing a log house with your own hands and what to grind a log house, we will consider further.

Types of log houses

The construction of a log house offers many advantages to its owner, such as:

1. Environmental friendliness of the home - wood is a clean and harmless material that does not cause allergies and is safe for both adults and children.

2. Wood regulates the humidity in the room - due to the natural properties of moisture absorption, a wooden blockhouse is able to absorb moisture in case of its excessive amount, and give it away, if necessary.

3. The ability of the log house to breathe provides the room with constant natural ventilation and does not release heat. This has a positive effect on the coziness and comfort of staying in such a room.

4. Wood has a low thermal conductivity - therefore the house heats up very quickly.

5. The blockhouse is resistant to deformation, its walls are light and do not require the construction of an expensive massive foundation.

6. In addition, wood is an excellent sound insulator, it has high frost resistance and, in comparison with the construction of a brick or concrete house, is cheaper.

Before you start studying the technology of polishing a log house, you should familiarize yourself with its main varieties. As you know, a log house is a wooden building made of pre-processed logs using a special technology. For and production choose coniferous or deciduous trees. Basic material requirements:

• lack of moisture;
• diameter from eighteen to forty centimeters;
• lack of rot, dark spots, bugs, etc.

In the process of constructing a log house, the logs are stacked one on top of the other, one row of logs is called a crown. The first row of logs has the most large diameter, since they are under heavy load. The underside of each log has grooves that are:

• semicircular,
• triangular.

In order for the walls of the log house to be stable, plug-in spikes are used, which are located alternately on each of the logs. Due to the fact that the tree for a log house is dry, and is strongly compacted during the installation process, in the first few years of operation of the log house, it settles. This factor must be taken into account when determining the height of the building.

The process of its grinding depends on the angle of the log house, so we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main types of log cabins, in relation to the type of corner of the building.

The corner is the connection of two logs with each other, the strength and integrity of the entire frame depends on it. In addition, the corners significantly affect the thermal insulation of the room, since improperly equipped corners of the log house will make the room cold and reduce the duration of its operation.

Among the varieties of log corners, there are two main types:

• with a balance,
• with no residue.

The first option involves the protrusion of the logs twenty to thirty centimeters outside the building. These corners are practical, easy to manufacture, low thermal conductivity and windproof. One of the significant disadvantages of this type of corner is the increase in the amount of wood required for arranging a log house. Although, if we compare these costs with the costs of warming the corners without a trace, they will be almost the same.

The corners without residues suggest the fastening of the log house with the help of wooden locks cut down on the end sections of the logs. In such a frame, the ends do not protrude outside the building. The only advantage of this type of corners is their more attractive appearance. But, disadvantages, the corners without a remainder have more, since in the connecting parts is formed small space, through which the wind enters the room, so they require insulation. In addition, the work on the construction of such a log house takes longer and requires large investments, since in order to build locks at the end of the logs, you need to attract specialists and pay for their work.

The general concept and reasons for polishing a log house

Blockhouse - consists of logs, but during operation, due to the presence of bark, they begin to darken and lose their appearance. This happens because moisture is absorbed into the unpolished areas and the process of decay occurs in them.

To increase the duration of the operation of the log house, its external processing is performed, which includes the process of grinding and covering the tree with the help of special compounds that make it waterproof, fireproof and antiseptic.

The process of polishing a log house is quite laborious, and requires from its performer not only special skills, but also certain tools and a lot of time. If there is no time, then it is better to entrust this issue to professionals who will carry out the grinding quickly and efficiently, while the log house will serve its owner for many decades.

Consequences of grinding:

• protection of wood from the formation of fungus and mold;
• attractiveness of appearance;
• after sanding, the clear texture of the wood can be traced.

In addition, we propose to consider the advantages of polishing a log house:

1. Mechanical restoration wood allows you to get rid of roughness and cracks, and also helps to improve the aesthetic properties of wood.

2. Wood that has been sanded has high adhesion to paints and varnishes.

3. Grinding a log house - preparatory stage, which allows for further finishing of the entire building.

4. After sanding, the tree has a beautiful texture, which is the main decoration of log cabins.

5. Sanding prevents premature aging of wood.

If you have free time and want to do the grinding yourself, first of all you need to decide on a tool that will come in handy in your work. To work easily and comfortably, choose a tool that is not too heavy, but has good power.

An excellent solution would be a belt sander, which will help you do this job efficiently. To facilitate the sanding process, these tools have built-in bags that collect dust and sawdust during sanding, so additional cleaning after work is not required.

If the frame is made of semicircular logs, then tape machine cannot cope with such work. Then the grinder comes to the rescue, which has special grinding attachments. Use a special disc covered with sandpaper. For hard-to-reach places, the use of a chisel would be an excellent solution.

Pay attention to the weight of the grinder, if it is too heavy, it will be inconvenient and difficult to work. Recommended power from 600 to 900 W. Choose tools from trusted manufacturers and ask for a product warranty.

Please note that the work on sanding the log house begins after the tree is completely dry. If you start working immediately after the construction of a log house, then a wet tree will not allow you to make the surface even and smooth.

Stock up on a certain number of attachments that have different grain sizes, since certain areas of the log house require individual grinding. In addition, when carrying out primary grinding, it is better to use a nozzle with coarse grains (forty), and for finishing grinding, a nozzle with a coarseness of eighty or one hundred is quite enough.

The grinding process consists of the following stages:

• rough stripping;
• medium processing: smoothing the surface and removing irregularities;
• fine processing;
• sanding before applying varnish or paint.

In the process of polishing a log house, you will need to change the attachments very often, because the resin and wood dust wears them off. In order to clean the attachment from the pieces of wood that have accumulated in it, use a steel brush, but before that, treat it with white alcohol. Please note that such a nozzle will work worse, and will wear off faster.

The speed of the grinding process is influenced by:

• skills in working with the tool;
• type of tree;
• log area;
• the presence of complex elements;
• power of the tool;
• the amount of resin in the tree.

Average speed of grinding work on running meter thirty centimeter bar is two minutes.

Do not forget about safety precautions, during the work in the air there is dust, tar and sawdust that get on the mucous membranes of the mouth, nose and eyes, therefore, when grinding the bar, it is recommended to wear a mask and protective clothing.

To work, you will need:

• angle grinder or grinder;
• disk or belt-type parquet grinder;
• grinding attachments;
• vacuum cleaner;
• respirator;
• points.

Start the grinding process, after a certain time, after the construction of the log house. The building should have minimal shrinkage. An angle grinder can handle large surfaces, while hard-to-reach surfaces can be handled.

To carry out a complete polishing of a log house, interior walls and front sections, you will need an eccentric sander, a small grinder and a 2 cm chisel.

1. If there are too large walls, it is necessary to divide them into certain zones, and carry out sanding in parts. After completing the work, you should immediately cover the surface with special solutions. If one area is sanded in one day, and not covered with paint, and the other after a few days, then the work will be done in vain. After polishing, after 24 hours, the blockhouse begins to darken and requires another polishing. According to the recommendations of experts, the painting of the log house should be carried out in a maximum of 36-48 hours, after grinding.

2. The sanding process includes several stages, the first of which is to use a coarse type of abrasive paper. With its help, the rough part of the bark is removed, while the pile of the tree remains intact. To get rid of the pile areas, it is necessary to carry out a second sanding process, which includes working with fine abrasive paper.

3. In the absence of experience in performing grinding, it is not recommended to use a grinder. This tool has a high rotation speed, and it is difficult for a beginner to use it to carry out uniform grinding. If you apply a little force and press the grinder on the timber, then grooves will appear on it, which will spoil the appearance of the log house. Therefore, in this case, the grinder is used only when processing groove and end sections.

4. Before grinding the grooves of the log house, it is necessary to equip the angle grinder with special attachment flat type. There are two options for such attachments:

• plastic,
• rubber.

It is preferable to choose the first option, since rubber nozzles are not practical, deteriorate quickly and require constant replacement. The diameter of the attachment should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the replacement sanding sheets. If the nozzle falls into the groove, the tool will jam and can accidentally break out of the hands, if the nozzle is smaller, it will not touch the person performing the grinding, otherwise the consequences will be dire.

In order to grind the logs, you will need a sander with a grinding wheel, sandpaper fines, grinders with a circle and grout. This process is longer and requires a lot of experience with the grinding tool.

Before you start grinding the logs, you must wait at least 8-9 days after the construction of the log house, if the weather is dry and warm. Waiting times will increase in wet weather.

The sanding process involves sanding rough spots with a grinder or grinder. Then, all areas are processed with grout and sandpaper. This process continues until the timber is perfectly flat and smooth. The final stage of grinding is recommended to be carried out manually, especially the joints of logs and hard-to-reach places. The most important condition for proper grinding is a quick covering of the log house finishing materials that will reduce the risk of mold and mildew on the tree.

Log processing after sanding

The process of external processing of a log house is able to extend its life several times. This procedure consists of sanding and painting with various compounds.

There is a large number of products that are processed after polishing a log house. There are both domestic and foreign manufacturers on the market. But, not all of these products are suitable for the treatment of residential premises, so before buying, carefully read the instructions and technical features solution.

Among the obligatory means for covering a log house after grinding are:

• antiseptics to prevent the development of mold and mildew;
• glazing compositions that make the appearance of the walls more attractive;
• fire retardants - solutions that increase resistance to fire.

The main function of log processing is protective. In addition, with the help of modern developments, the natural texture of the wood is emphasized and its tinting is performed. Possible use case ordinary paint on wood, but in this case, the texture of the wood will not be visible.

The first layer, which is applied during the processing of the log house, is antiseptic, then bleaching is performed, and then the application of fireproof impregnations.

It is better to paint the blockhouse with a brush or a spray gun. If the house consists of logs, then it is preferable to choose the second option.

Before applying the base coats, pay attention to the flatness and smoothness of the sanding and the absence of caulking. If available, use a special sealant to seal the caulk and prevent it from interacting with the environment.

Pay attention to the end areas; use acrylic moisture-resistant solutions or water glass to process them. But, keep in mind that the second option is less safe for living quarters. Apply any of the solutions in two layers, and before applying the second, the first must be completely dry.

The walls are treated immediately after sanding, and at a positive air temperature. The first layer is glazed. The application of the compositions is done with a brush or spray gun.

The main rule is durable wall processing using high quality products from leading manufacturers. If you save on materials, then the felling will suffer first of all, since wood is a rather vulnerable material that requires careful maintenance.

Log polishing video:

After the log house has settled, it is time to polish it. The task of this operation is to remove the layer of wood that has darkened during shrinkage and to achieve a uniform color. On the logs "from under the plane", the irregularities are still removed by grinding. The operation is not the most difficult, but it requires attention and takes a lot of time.

Since a large amount of dust flies during work, you must have personal protective equipment. You will need anti-fog goggles and a respirator. Headphones and anti-vibration gloves do not interfere: they will be more comfortable with them. And it is imperative to protect the eyes and the breathing apparatus.

• 1 How to grind logs
  • 1.1 Grinding planed logs outside
    • 1.1.1 Choosing a grinder
    • 1.1.2 Grinding discs
  • 1.2 Grinding of rounded logs
• 2 Grinding the frame in the grooves and corners
  • 2.1 Processing the ends of logs
• 3 Processing a log house inside the house
• 4 How to grind timber walls
• 5 When is the best time to grind
• 6 Procedure and organization of work

How to grind logs

Two types of tools can be used for grinding logs and beams: eccentric grinders or grinders with appropriate attachments.

To give the building an aesthetic look, the log house is polished

Grinding planed logs outside

It has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. And the choice of a tool for polishing a log house is no exception. Someone works exclusively with grinders, and someone only with grinders. Someone is more comfortable and faster to work with petal discs, while others do not accept them at all, but work with wire nozzles. It's up to you to choose. We are only telling you how you can do it.

Choosing a grinder

For grinding a log house from a planed log (from under a planer), angle grinders are used, which are usually called grinders. Choose not the most expensive, but not the cheapest models either. Cheap ones usually break down very quickly: they belong to the household class and have a small working resource. Grinding a log house is necessary both inside and outside, the area is considerable, so the resource household tool barely enough for one or two walls. Therefore, when choosing, it is advisable for you to find either an inexpensive professional or semi-professional model. They are usually in the middle price range.

Most when polishing a log house work with grinders with different attachments

The power of the grinder is approximately 700-1000 watts. If you wish, you can take a more powerful one, but this is more than enough for woodworking. More powerful ones are harder to work: they themselves weigh a lot, and it will be more difficult to manage them. And every awkward movement is a hole on the log, which will then have to be leveled.

The most convenient discs are 125 mm, and choose a model for them. But these are just recommendations. You can work both large and small. Who is used to it.

The idle speed is 10,000-12,000 rpm. Moreover, it is very desirable that the tool has speed control, and better - smooth.

What to look for when choosing a grinder

Pay attention to where the air intake is coming from. In order for the grinder to clog less and to work longer when working, the fence should be at the back (not on the sides). And also, it is important that the handles are comfortable, and the machine itself is not heavy. Therefore, try on each, hold it in your hands. Pay attention to the length of the cord - the longer, the more freedom of action it gives.

For the convenience of work, it is better to have two cars. The fact is that the processing takes place at least twice: first, the layer is removed with an abrasive with coarse grains, then sanded with fine grains. In order not to constantly change the attachments and not to overheat the instrument, it is more convenient to have two machines. One will not be enough for you all the same. And so the work goes faster, and the tool works in normal mode - it does not overheat.

It is better to take plastic nozzles on the grinder not rubber, but plastic

There is one more subtlety: for work it is better to use not a rubber, but a plastic nozzle (on which the abrasive is attached). Plastic, although thinner, lasts longer. If you accidentally touch the wood with the rubber pad, a black mark will be left on the wood. This won't happen with plastic.

Grinding discs

For the initial coarse sanding, use 40-60 grit flap discs. You can simply use an abrasive with the same grain. It is as convenient for anyone. The consumption of discs is large: one per 3-5 meters of the log. Maybe more and less: it depends on which layer you need to remove and on how even the log was before processing. If it was rounded - the flow rate is less, if from under the planer - more. But it is better not to save on these disks, as soon as they become greasy - change them: the work will go faster, and the grinder will work with less load.

Grinding discs come in different grains

The consumption of fine sanding discs depends on how thoroughly you sand the surface the first time. It is better to take this fine abrasive with Velcro - it changes faster. Here the grain size is 100-120.

In addition to discs, you will need to buy pillows for attachments. On the one hand, they are covered with a sticky compound, to which the abrasive discs are then attached. These pillows are erased on the sides, and the adhesive side also ceases to "work". So this consumable will come in handy too.

Round log grinding

Since the surface in such a log house is already flat, the use of a grinder with a lack of experience will only lead to the appearance of grooves and pits - traces of too strong pressure. Then they will have to be compared for a long time with smaller grain. Therefore, for processing rounded logs, eccentric sanders are often used. They are less productive, but if you press too hard, the sanding disc is blocked. This allows, even in the absence of experience, to make the surface even and smooth.

Grinding machines are used for grinding rounded logs.

The power of these machines is more modest - 200-300 W, the number of revolutions is about the same 10,000 - 12,000 rpm. Many models have a dust collector. This is a big plus when working indoors, but it also shows up in the price. The principle of selection is the same: good quality, semi-professional or professional model that fits comfortably in the hand. For polishing a log house, it is also advisable to have two machines: put on one discs with a grain of 30-60 to remove the darkened layer, on the second, set a fine grain of 100-120 to smooth the surface and remove raised wood pile.

Log grinding in grooves and corners

Regardless of which log the frame is made of, the grooves are grinded with grinders. Moreover, the nozzle is taken of a smaller size than the disc used (for example, for a nozzle diameter of 115 mm, the abrasive is set at 125). If the disc and bit are the same size, the tool may jam in the groove during operation. At the same time, the grinder will be pulled out of the hands, which can lead to injury.

You have to modify the logs in the corners with chisels.

If the disk is larger, then you can work safely. Although it wears out quickly along the edges, you can work this way without fear of injury.

The most problematic for processing remain the corners of a log house. The only reliable method of processing them is with chisels. With this tool, the top thin layer of wood is removed. This can be done before stripping the entire log or after. Not so important.

Processing the ends of logs

The ends of the logs are sanded with a grinder with an abrasive wheel made of 40 grain. By adjusting the speed, you select the speed at which the tool is easy to control. It is unrealistic to achieve perfect smoothness here, and it is not necessary, therefore, cleaning with fine grain is not done. During further processing with primers, varnishes or other compounds, the ends are given increased attention - they absorb better, therefore you have to lubricate more abundantly.

Log processing inside the house

All actions are identical. When grinding a log house from a planed log, if the wall inside will not be sheathed with anything, another passage will be added for fine finishing: eccentric grinder with an abrasive disc of 120. This will allow you to achieve a perfectly flat surface.

Inside the frame is polished to furniture smoothness

How to sand timber walls

The tools are used the same as when processing logs. A specific choice can only be made by assessing how deep you need to shoot. upper layer wood.

If the bath is folded with profiled or glued timber, most likely, you do not need to level anything. Only remove the upper darkened layer, if any. In this case, with a sufficient level of knowledge of the grinder, you can work with it. If experience is not enough, work with a grinding eccentric machine... It takes longer, but the result is guaranteed, at least good.

You need to grind the timber in different ways. Depending on its geometry

If the walls are made of ordinary timber, then a lot will have to be leveled. Here you cannot do without a grinder. Moreover, in some places it will be necessary to remove a couple of millimeters of excess - imperfect geometry and errors in cutting bowls lead to the fact that the difference is quite significant.

I found a video clip about a very interesting victorious grinding disc, which, it seems, alone can easily cope with rough grinding and easily remove excess thickness.

When is the best time to grind

There are many possible answers to this question. Traditionally, the frame is polished after at least the main shrinkage has passed. During this time, the log dries up, and it is easier to work with it. It is extremely difficult to remove even a thin layer from raw wood. If you need to equalize, then it will take a lot of time, money for disks and effort.

On the other hand, if you have a log house made of dried timber and logs, then you can grind and process it right away. In this case, putting the log house under the roof, it is sanded, immediately treated with impregnations and left to shrink in this form. This is done infrequently, although no one forbids it. Usually they act according to the usual scheme.

The log house is polished after it has settled

Order and organization of work

Since a minimum of time should pass between grinding logs or timber and processing, it is necessary to process along the crown. You can start from above or from below - there is no difference, but they grind one wall completely, then go over to the other. It is possible to cover with impregnations and primers immediately after finishing the treatment of one wall, having previously removed the dust.

Questions often arise as to what to do if the wood has blue discoloration or other dark spots. These are traces of the activity of fungi. They do not affect the quality and safety in any way, but they spoil the appearance pretty much.

The blueness of the wood spoils the appearance

If you want to use light transparent paints for finishing, you will have to fight with the color. For this there is special formulations for bleaching wood. In this case, the procedure is as follows:

• bleach wood;
• carry out rough grinding;
• if there are traces of blackness, bleach again;
• finishing grinding.

Then comes the treatment with fire retardants, primers and finishing compounds.

This video presents the experience of a man who polished a log house himself. He talks about some interesting details, so take 20 minutes.