Today we will tell that it affects the quality of sawing, how exactly and purely sawing the chipboard, as well as how can I cut with a bus and without a guide of a conventional circular saw.

We will show on the example of a manual disk saw, but it does not affect the receptions, the difference is only in insignificant details. You can get this quality in the cheapest tool if you follow our advice.

What affects the quality of dsp?

In this case, we will cut the chipboard, it is the most capricious sawmill material, because it has longitudinal and transverse layers, a fairly gentle and thin veneer. But on the other hand, it has a hard adhesive basewhich will also interfere with us.

Saw blade. How to choose it?

When sawing chipboard, the saw blade must simultaneously cut clean and be resistant, because glue in its properties is very close to the glass and the tool itself is quite quickly tupit. Therefore, in the process of cutting chipboard, you need to choose enough good discsTo cut them without loss of quality for a long time.

What is the complexity of sawing with a circular saw with disks?

If we look at the cutting blank, we will see that he is full of jackets, because "in the hands" to conduct exactly a saw in the cuticle is practically not possible.

On the saw disk there is a difference in height between the body of the saw itself and the sawing part - tooth. Due to this distance, the disk has the ability to direct its position in propile. Accordingly, as soon as he changes his geometry, the rear teeth begins to go down for the workpiece from the chipboard and leave traces on it.

It is important to have a workpiece face down. Why?

The disk rotates from the bottom up, it cuts the patch of the workpiece upwards. Thus below, on facial sideWe always have a clean surface. Problems begin to form at the top, where the teeth come out of the workpiece. So it turns out underlyings, chips, pile.

How to minimize them, or avoid at all? There are several non-hard techniques and we will tell about them now.

Reception 1. Cut on the guide

We set to the workpiece guide (bus), set the depth of the sawing and perform the propyl. As you yourself can be convinced, even on the outside of our workpiece from chipboard no chips, no substrunels. He himself cut a smooth without signs of scaling or side waves. Why such difference?

What is the merit of the guide?

When we saw a disc, we inevitably move the saw, the so-called "iron movement" is obtained. That is, when we drive the hand all the time we move the saw to the right, left. A guide that has a hardcant allows it to be avoided.

Accordingly, when we have a drink on the guide, it does not move and the saw blade itself works exactly, without changing its position. It turns out the perfect line parallel guide.

What should I do if there is no manual disk saw and guide?

You need to make a guide itself. Find normal profile, You can take the rule, any flat rack, the main thing that its geometry is even.

Measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your chipboard. Any clamp securely guide to the workpiece and start cutting.

The main thing in the process is to constantly press the saw to the guide. That is, your hand should always lead the saw toward the homemade tire.

After cutting, you will get almost perfect cut, the cut line can be barely visible. We performed the cut very high quality, the thread itself is clean, there are no side traces on it. With the exception of a small pile on back side blanks.

Where did this pile come from, because we worked with a guide (tire)?

On the purchased tire for cutting there is a special plastic protective tape. This tape does not give rise to the pile and drank it cuts. In this case, we did not have this tape, so we got this pile on the surface.

What to do with a lot in this case?

There are two options:

1. An ordinary malarious tape is taken. It is glued to the place of the propyl on it, markup is made and sawed with a painting tape. Scotch holds in possession in place and during propyle, we get everything clean.

2. Just slower to conduct the saw blade itself. That is, if you do the same with a slower feed, then the chips will be much smaller.

Reception 2. "Reverse cut".

The first pass is performed in an unusual manner - reverse. That is, the disk saw rotates along the supply of the workpiece. We exhibit the minimum depth of the cut, turn on the saw and moves not forward, and back.

If you have a regular saw, then you just lock the saw with a minimum departure for the base. The meaning of the first pass is that the blade, moving along the guide, only cling to our workpiece. We need a small groove to chipboard.

By making the first - sub-cut, you make sure there are no chips with such a feed (back). The surface is perfect!

Now we will exhibit the saw on the full depth and sawing the workpiece on this groove with the usual sharp - feed forward. We will have two cuts per blank. No shelving of waves, arson, nothing - the perfect quality!

Video - How to sawmill material (chipboard, plywood) without chips

IN this material We will touch on such a topical for masters-groceries engaged in furniture from LDSP, the question is like cutting Ledsp. without chips. In fact, the question is quite treasurely, because professional equipment (format-cutting machine) on which is cleaned furniture shopsIt costs about a million rubles, which is not for everyone to pocket, and the area for its placement should be slightly larger than the standard 18 square meters. meters. A feature of such machines is the presence of two sawmills (The first small cutting and the second main, the next exactly behind it). What can be replaced by such a machine in an amateur workshop?

The most optimal, in my opinion, the replacement is submersible a circular saw Complete with guide bus. Here we will talk about her today and talk.

Personally, I use the submersible pilot Elitech is the domestic budget modelwhich, despite the simplicity, allows you to achieve good results.

Professional models (for example, Festool saws, drank even better, but also stand 5 times more).

So, what did the submersible circular saw differ from the usual? Firstly, with its spring-loaded working part with a depth limiter. Due to this, it is very easy to set and change the depth of the cut, in addition "head" is returned to its original position independently in the absence of a pressure of the operator. Secondly, these are mandatory grooves on the sole to integrate with the guide bus. Thirdly, a rigid design that excludes the backlash (the cut passes strictly at one place).

The tire itself is equipped with an anti-slip ribbon (as a rule, it is a ribbon ribbon rubber - a black strip on the right)

The tape presses the laminate, without giving it pieces to be broken in places of the teeth of the saw disk. The tire also has grooves for fixing on the blanks of clamps and ribbons for more light slip (Red stripes).

By the way, Festool saw is equipped with anti-slip liners and from the opposite side of the tire, which makes the cut on both sides of the disk.

The tire itself is hard attached on the workpiece and does not shift. Fixation is carried out by special clamps (their form is somewhat different from standard F-shaped. Price, by the way, too).

All these features allow you to cut in "two passages". First - not deep cuts upper layer laminate. The second - through saws for the whole depth. At the same time, there is no longer no tooth from the workpiece of the material, therefore, there is nothing to pull out, respectively, the chips are not formed. All this in theory. Consider how it is all carried out in practice.

Marking is quite traditional. With the help of roulette, we note the points of the beginning and end of the cut (you can use the joinery of the carbon).

We carry out a marking line by connecting the risks.

On the line, we exhibit the guide bus that the edge of the anti-slip tape is combined with marking.

Please note that the tire lies with the details that should remain (it will not be on it - it will help the tape on the bus). They are possible on a videotable piece due to the lack of a liner on the pile itself.

You can, of course, cut, putting a sheet of LDSP on the workshop, but at the same time the surface of the workbench is damaged and it is necessary to use replaceable countertops (I do not do that, although it may be the only true method with large pieces).

The tire is attached to the billet of a pair of F-shaped clamps, headed into special grooves on the tire.

We take into the hands of the saw and on the depth regulator set 11-12 mm, which corresponds to 5-6 mm depth of the cut (the tire itself "eats" about 5 mm).

We put the saw on the tire, combining the grooves on the sole with protrusions on the bus.

We carry out the first shallow res. The photo shows that a small number of chips on the unaczzle ribbon of the workpiece is available.

And one more photo from another angle.

And close-up

We change the depth of 35-40 mm and we make the second through-cut without changing the position of the tire.

After removing the tire, we see enough neat propyl, which does not require additional processing.

Separately photographed the item after the tire removal from above

And from the bottom.

By the way, the cut is traditionally more "clean" because in this place the teeth of the disk is only crashed into the material, they pull it out at the exit.

I also note one important fact. It is necessary to work with sharp discs. The disk used in this lesson is already decently "pushed" and requires editing. I think that with a zero disc, chips would not be at all.

In addition to the sharpness of the teeth, the decranded material itself is strongly affected on the quality of the cut. There are larger coatings and more durable coatings. In this example, the plates of 16 mm LDSP Lamarty were used - one of the best domestic plates. LDSP Egger or Kronoshpanpanpasp is much more prone to rocking, and I would like this result with this disk, most likely.

All these moments come with experience, the matter is small - to divorce the purchase of this device.

In principle, you can draw in the "two passages" and conventional circular with homemade guide tires, the main thing is that the sole does not hang out, but to do it less convenient than the submersible saws, primarily due to the inconvenience of rearrangement of the sawing depth.

If you have tried to fulfill the dsp at home at home, then you know exactly that this work is not easy and requires not only skill, but also availability good tool. The laminated chipboard is particularly difficult to process, with which there is often quite a few chipping. That is why many masters, facing such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to cut the chipboard when buying, especially since many trading organizations provide such services and the price of them is quite acceptable.

The sawing chipboard is carried out using accurate format-cutting machines that will help get the blanks of the specified size and shape.

Modern models allow smoothly sawing slaughter materials not only in the horizontal and vertical direction, but also at an angle.

In addition to cutting sheets, you will be helped to calculate and provide in the form of a visual video file several options for competent and economical sawing sheet material (using special computer programs) And, if necessary, the incommion will perform. However, if you for any reason prefer to perform this work yourself, before sawing the chipboard, you will have to spend some preparatory work.

Tools and materials

If there is a possibility, it is best to produce a manual milling chipboard using self-made guides. This method is not too convenient when striking large sheets, because when working with this tool requires a table. In addition, the method has to change the cutters often. But as a result, you will get purely processed, "rooted" edges.

Some craftsmen use electrolovka in their work, however, in the absence of skill, it is difficult to perform a slice exactly, and the chips may form.

You can try to install a bimetallic cloth with teeth, pointed inward, intended for laminate. It should be powered by an electrolybik by increasing turnover, with a small feed so that the breaks are not formed.

If such methods are not suitable for you, then to fulfill the chipboard at home, we will prepare for work:

• hamsaw with small teeth (the one is best suited, which is designed for work on the metal). At the same time, the teeth should be divorced by 1/2 thickness of the canvas and be hardened;
• paper adhesive tape;
• fIRLING FOR PROTECT CHRANCH CONSTRUCTION;
• entround paper for finishing cutting line.

How to cut chipboard without chips?

Before starting the chipboard, especially laminated, cut through a sharp tool to the line, for which we cut and glue a paper tape with a sticky layer along it. This will help minimize damage to the chipboard decorative layer.

So that the chip is as small as possible, the movement of the hacksaw is necessary under sharp angle to the surface (not more than 30 °). Movements should be smooth, without excess pressure on the plate and sharp jerks.

If the chips were still failed to avoid, we proceed to cut first with the file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and then fine-grained grinding skurt. You can also disguise all defects, applying where it is possible, a flexible profile.

Figured opening

The curvilinear surfaces of the specified configuration are even more complicated at home, it will be necessary to further spend on the purchase of a milling mill that will help you get rid of you from chips and jar, formed when you cut a chipboard.

The price of a manual mill can significantly fluctuate, depending on the manufacturer, power, availability additional features. If you do not plan to engage in the production of furniture professionally, it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.

To cut the chipboard, you need to perform the following steps:

1. laying on a sheet of chipboard of contours of the necessary part, we cut it with an electroll bison, trying to cut the retreating of just a couple of millimeters from the scheduled line of the cut;
2. we make out of the fiberboard or plywood patterns of the design radius and carefully put on them ends with sandpaper;
3. applying a template to the discharge part, we climb it with clamps and process the manual copier mill with the bearing, removing the extra material exactly to the planned line.

At the same time, it is indifferent, which cutter (with two or four knives is used). The only condition - knives should capture the processable cutting thickness all over height. After processing, it remains only to stick the edge into the part. How it is done - watch video:

What you can not cut chipboard

If the scope of work is quite large, and the quality requirements are small, some masters advise to cut the chipboard at home with the help of the Greenman (a corner car, in everyday life called "Bulgarian"). At the same time, they use a disk designed to work with wood. To cut it easier, a guide bar is fixed along the cut line. Cutting DSP With the use of the Bulgarian, you can sometimes see on the video.

Attention, important! This method is absolutely not acceptable, as the likelihood of injuries is very high when working, especially if disks apply big diameter And with the Greenman, a protective cover is removed.

Here, gathered a sufficient amount of material and decided to roll another analytical note. This time the topic is heating LDSP without chip.

There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to purely cut the chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a format-cutting machine).

The whole highlight of this machine is that there are two silent Disclocated strictly on one axis. The first britches the LDSP, the second cuts through it.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there is more expensive))). For an amateur is not very acceptable.

A good way to cut the wrong parts marked, but in this way you do not drink. Square, of course, are present, but in an amount, quite correlating with the formatus (it also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). Many marks with marking. Only straight cuts can be made.

Method 5 - Milling

Provides the maximum clean edge of the workpiece, the quality is not different from the formathell, often even better.

With it, first saw the workpiece of the jigsaw, retreating from the milling line 2-3 mm, and then align the line on the template (I usually use a second piece of LDSP, dried on formathell, suitable size). Must be copying, that is, with the bearing.
Very clean cut. The ability to conduct curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacturer of the set, including, and several are completely the same. Cons - a lot of troubles: the need for accurate markup, pre-feeding of blanks, setting the template or tire under the milling mill, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.

As practice shows, to make a high-quality sawmill chipboard with a durable melamine coating quite not easy. Rough tools We often leave jar on cuts. Neat door or shelf with such defects no longer collect. Dried LDSP at home, as a rule, you have to repair work Or making furniture.

How to cut chipboard without jar and chips?

Special equipment

Of course, the most the best way - Take advantage of a special format machine. With it, you can get any cut. But for private needs, such a tool can not be bought, and at a manufacturing plant that provide silent services, such a procedure will cost good money. More cheap way - Circular Saw. There are even special saws for LDSP. But they will require the use of special tool. However, many in the arsenal should be milling Machinewhich fix the cutter cut cut. If you have experience in such a machine, it will not be difficult to get a satisfactory appearance Cut.

Protective tools

You can cut LDSP and the jigsaw, but it will be a draft cut. The edges may not be direct, but sinusoidal, and in the worst case the edge will be released non-punctacular to the face surface.

During the cut, you need to be prepared for the fact that the pubsik's pedel will start "walking" because of his bending. You need to saw with a reserve of 4 mm, and then smooth the edge.

Cutting LDSP at home with the help of an electric bike, reduces the formation of chips. When picking, it is necessary to increase the revolutions and reduce the feed by setting the podachka to 0. Only sharp sawdresses intended for a special sawing chipboard should be applied. Only observing these rules can be achieved. good result. After cutting the end, which will be in sight, you can earn the sandpaper. Additionally, before the cut, as already mentioned, you need to cut through the line on which it will take place. But the Pillet is not on this line, but near her - then the chips will not touch the limits you need. In the end, it will remain only to bring the edge of the skin.

Contour indents can be up to 4 mm. Then these several millimeters are removed with a cylindrical cutter with a manual electrophower with the bearing. The bearing is sent along a long level fixed on the back of the sheet.

In addition, if the chips are located in the non-working mallow area - they can be masked by a marker or a marker, selected by their color.

The most unwanted way to break down LDSP - The file (oddly enough, in the old textbooks this method is quite a lot of material devoted). It is possible and the plane, but preferably electric and carbide knives. But here it is necessary to take into account that the dust from the Rubanka will split around the room.

And the most comfortable way - via manual milling On the guide. The end should be even and under 90 grams, the chips will not be, and when the vacuum cleaner is turned on, there will almost never be a dust.

The masters recommend using for such a cutting of the metal. If you have a saw with a small tooth, then the order of work is:

1) Out in the knife of the cutting line. Before starting work, cover the saw. The knife should be done with a small pressure to cut the laminated top layer.

2) on the intended line of cutting with a tape with a sticky base. It will help keep the decorative layer of cracking. You can use paper tape.

3) The tool should be kept under a very sharp corner. In this case, the angle should not be above 30 grams - this will reduce the likelihood of chips. In the process of cutting, it is necessary to slightly pressed on the saw. If the work is performed by the power tool, such as an electrolovka, then it is not necessary to hurry and press it

4) After the end of the sawing, the cut can be cleaned with a file. But in many cases it is not required, since the small saws of saws do not give to deform the laminate. If torn edges were formed, then the delicate work of the rashpil will result in a proper look. Grinding tool must be kept to the center from the edge - it minimizes possible damage to the upper layer.

5) The glued band of the veneer will give the final beauty of the cut.

Of course, the collapse of LDSP at home does not imply professional quality and high speed of work. For those in a hurry, you can offer sawing Ledp. Bulgarian. A wood disc is used as a cutting element. At LDSP on the clamps, the plank is mounted, so that Bulgarian goes to a smooth cut. After casing, possible chips are treated with the same grinder, only with another nozzle - for grinding. But a more sparing option is the use of sandpaper.