Before starting a conversation about the features and methods of installation of glass blocks, it is necessary to mention that all structures made of glass blocks carry mainly decorative, noise protection, heat-shielding and dust protection and, in no case, can not serve as walls And partitions, which will subsequently assign the function of bearing walls.

In other words, on the walls made of glass blocks, it is categorically impossible to lay the slabs overlap between the floors of the structure, as well as beam overlap, as the walls made of glass blocks are not intended for these purposes and cannot bear a large load on themselves.

Starting our conversation with this issue, we would like to immediately protect you from the gross mistake when installing glass blocks, which can lead to very unpleasant consequences, for example, to partial or complete collapse of your construction

Selection of tools and consumables

For successful work on the installation of glass blocks and the manufacture of structures from glass blocks of any size, complexity and varieties without any difficulties, you will need a certain set of tools and specific consumables.

Consumables:

	1. Cement mortar or dry construction mixture for laying ceramic tile or porcelain stoneware, desirable frost-resistant. 2. Reinforcement rods are designed to reinforce masonry from glass blocks, they perform an additional fastening function when mounting in the masonry of the glass block structures. The bar used for these purposes must necessarily be made from of stainless steel Or at least, should be galvanized so as not to be corrosion.
	3. Stacked crossings they play a large role in the process of controlling the thickness of the seams between the glass blocks and fit in each corner joint. After graduation mounting work They remain inside the cement masonry and rub.
	4. Grout for seams, it is intended to fill the seams between the glass blocks and give them the necessary color, since the color gamut of glue solutions to which the laying of glass blocks is carried out, is very limited and not always acceptable to the color to those glass blocks that are laid on them. To strengthen the seams between the glass blocks, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant grout, as it is not afraid of water exposure and can be used both indoors and outside.
	5. Silicone sealant In a special tube fastening tube. 6. Fastener dowels and anchor, for fastening frame structures.
Tools for laying glass blocks:
	1. Level than a longer partition, the longer the level should be applied, it will increase the accuracy and quality of laying glass blocks. The length of the levels manufactured by industry varies from 40 centimeters to 2.5 meters.
	2. Tool for measuring and markup, that is, a tape bullow with a construction pencil with a thick griffel, they are different colors.
	3. Marking cord for marking and conducting long straight lines, as well as to control the smooth laying of glass blocks. This tool It is necessarily coming complete with a special marking powder.
	4. Bulgarian with an even abrasive disk designed to circumcise excess reinforcement rods. It is advisable to apply an abrasive disk with a diameter of 115mm, as it creates less vibration.
	5. Rubber or foam grater, it is designed to apply grouts and rubbing her seams between glass blocks, as well as removal of residues adhesive solution After laying glass blocks.
	6. Corto for the preparation of adhesive solution, preferably plastic and 5 buckets with a capacity, that is, one kneading a solution.
	7. Construction workman is used to display the adhesive solution on the surface of the stacked glass blocks. 8. Sponges for pre-purifying laid glass blocks from the remnants of the adhesive solution and grout.
	9. Electrode, used to drill holes for reinforcement bars in cases if the installation is carried out in conjugation with wooden elements The bases, as well as for stirring the adhesive solution when it is prepared.
	10. Mixer desired size, for mixing the adhesive solution.
	12. Perfederator, for drilling holes for reinforcement bars in concrete and brick bases.
	12. Drills for drilling wood with a diameter of 8 - 10mm. 13. Special drill bors for a perforator with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm.
	14. Rubber hammer, to correct the masonry of glass blocks if necessary. 15. Firefront or portable forests for convenience of mounting design, if it is quite high.
	16. Expanding spatula in size, which is suitable for a certain thickness of the seam to extend the seams between the glass blocks.
	17. Expanding blade, to remove the adhesive solution from seams and formation of grooves for subsequent filling it with grout.
	18. Spatula, to remove from the surface of the base of pollutants and old materials.
	19. Pistol for silicone sealant, it allows you to freely work with a sealant with one hand. 20. Dry rag, preferably fan or bike, for finishing and grinding glass blocks.

Mounting methods for designs from glass blocks

There are several methods for mounting glass blocks. All of them differ from each other in many respects, such as: labor intensity, aesthetics, cost, and speed of work on the manufacture of designs from glass blocks.

Traditional method of laying glass blocks

it is the cheapest, simple and high-speed way, but it is also not the most aesthetic, which is its biggest disadvantage compared to other methods of installation of glass blocks.

In the manufacture of partitions with the traditional method, you need to first clean the surface of the base of the walls, floors and the ceiling in the place where the partition will be manufactured, from chalk, dust, linoleum, parquet and other pollutants and old materials.

The next stage of work is the markup of the future design directly on the surface of the base around the perimeter using the level, construction pencil and marking cord. All the necessary data and measurement results are applied directly to the base surface in those places where they are obtained or will be used at the time of laying glass blocks.

After conducting posting work, you need to proceed to the manufacture of glue to which the laying of glass blocks will be made.

For traditional method Styling glass blocks, as a rule, is used or ordinary cement mortar (in proportion 1 bucket of cement + 3 buckets of fine-grained clean river sand + 1 bucket clean water), either in best case, ordinary dry construction mixture for laying tile tile Or for brickwork.

In the case of the use of a conventional cement solution, it is recommended to add to it when stirring 200 grams of PVA glue per 5 buckets of the finished solution to increase the plasticity and adhesion of glue.

When applying ready construction mixes This is not necessary to do, since they already include all the necessary components, that is, adhesive substances and plasticizers.

When installing glass blocks, it is advisable to apply adhesive solutions white color In order not to change the color of the glasslocks themselves, as well as when using solutions based on white cement, in the future there are more aesthetic seams between the glass blocks.

The glue solution you have chosen thoroughly mix in a special convenient, preferably plastic, dishes using the desired size and mixer the desired size to the sour cream-like consistency and leave for approximately 3 to 5 minutes for "ripening".

After the "ripening" the solution is re-mixed thoroughly and it is ready for use.

Properly cooked adhesive solution should not be very thick, but it is not allowed to flow from the construction workshop at the time of laying glass blocks.

Use for laying glass blocks diluted after drying the solution is not recommended, since all adhesive adhesives available in this solution are already crystated, and the solution itself lost its clutch properties.

The laying of the partition from the glass blocks begins with the layering of the two first reinforcement rods on the basis of the floor.

Bars used to reinforce glass block masonry must be made of stainless steel or galvanized to avoid, firstly, the appearance of rust, which in the future can perform outside masonry and spoil appearance Constructions, secondly, with corrosion of reinforcement rods, the design is weakened.

To lay the first reinforcement rods, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall, in which then the two first rods will enter. The holes must be drilled by the joint of the wall and gender in the size of the inner walls prepared for laying glass blocks.

Reinforcement rods, with such a styling manner, will perform the function of the mortgage elements along the entire height of the laid out structure.

In addition to horizontal rods, it is necessary to still lay and vertical reinforcement rods after each laid glass block and also drill holes in the floor-to-floor clutch.

If you present this design in the finished state without glass blocks, it will be present by metal grid From steel rods, in which glass blocks are laid.

After laying the two first rods with the help of a trowel, apply a glue solution on the surface of the base and evenly distribute it over the entire surface intended for installation. Take care of the glass blocks, in parallel inserting the vertical reinforcement bars into the pre-prepared holes in the floor and filling the seams with a glue solution between the glass blocks, controlling their thickness with the help of special crosses, which are stacked in each angular Shak between glass blocks.

Special crosses provide the same seams between the glass blocks and at the end of the mounting work remain closed in the masonry of the glass blocks.
With the traditional method of laying glass blocks, just 3 - 4 rows of glass blocks for one approach are allowed.

Since the usual cement mortar dries relatively slowly, it is necessary to give it to dry at least 12 hours between each next laying.

After completing each laying, it is necessary to remove all excess of the adhesive solution from the surface of the glass blocks using a sponge or cloth and release the inter-block seams from the excess solution using the extension spatula.

If this is not done in a timely manner, then after drying the solution you will get unsightly seams and dirty glass blocks that are very hard cleaned.

If you are planning after laying to rub the seams between the glass blocks with colored grouts, it is not necessary to use the extension spatula, it is necessary to release the seams under the grout using a special blade by creating a recessive recess in them to fill the grout.

When the installation work is already coming to complete and before the ceiling remains to be laid approximately 3 - 4 rows of glass blocks, it is necessary to do the same work with the ceiling as with the floor, that is, to drill holes in it by certain sizes for laying the remaining final vertical reinforcement rods and continue Stacking glass blocks until the installation is completed.

After the complete completion of the editing partition from the glass blocks, it is necessary to clear up or separate all the newly made seams from the adhesive solution and pre-wipe the surface of the glass blocks from the adhesive solution.

Fully finished design must finally dry, until the adhesive mixture is completely drying, room temperature This period can be approximately 5 - 10 days.

To reduce the drying period, you can apply special building dryers or, as they are also called, building hair dryerswhich by increasing the temperature ambient Reduce drying time.

After the final drying, it is necessary to sweep the interblock seams by grouting, it is usually applied to the color of the glass of the glasslocks themselves, this material is offered in a wide color assortment.

It is advisable to apply moisture-resistant grout, because it is not washed with water and serves you much longer than a regular grout, given what you have to wipe your partition during cleaning to maintain it in a clean state.

Grout is applied to the surface of the masonry of the glass blocks using a foam grater diagonally and rubbed into the previously prepared deepening of the seams to their full filling. After rubbing the grout of all seams, it is necessary to remove all excess grouts from the surface of the design with a damp sponge or cloth.

After drying the partition from wet cleaning, it is necessary to bring its surface to the perfect state by rubbing the surface of the glass blocks dry, clean rag. This operation will ensure the final erasing of small residues of the grout and give the glass blocks perfect shine and purity.

Perhaps, after rubbing the partition, a dry cloth can be said that your partition is ready for operation.

Arched walls and partitions

When mounting walls and partitions from glass blocks, which have rounded shapes, all stages of installation work are identical to those described in the section on traditional laying of glass blocks.

The laying difference in this case lies in the fact that the reinforcement bars bend in places of rounding partitions in its form, that is, duplicate the rounding of the wall.

In this case, the suture crosses are stacked in the glass block masonry only inside the rounding in order to observe the thickness of the internal seams. Outside the rounding of the walls of the seams automatically take the same width, which depends only on the radius of the partition rounding.

No need to worry if you notice that the second half of the suture crosses, or rather their thickness, does not coincide with the thickness of the outer seams between the glass blocks.

The outer part of the cross regulates only horizontal seams between glass blocks. To perform fragments of the walls of the walls, it is recommended to use half-high glass blocks of the same color, since, firstly, in places of rounding will be used large quantity Vertical reinforcement rods, which will give your partition additional strength, secondly, due to the use of smaller glass blocks it will be possible to reduce the discrepancy between the thickness of the internal and external seams.

Frame Method Mounting Partitions from Glass Locks

This method of mounting glass blocks is technologically more complicated than traditional. It is also more expensive and, of course, it looks more effectively than its traditional option.

The advantage of this method is that when it is used, it is practically not used cement glue mixAnd the design itself is much easier.

Installation work begins with dimensions in the place in which the partition from the glass blocks will be mounted.

Based on the resulting size and linear dimensions of the used glass blocks, a wooden framework is made of dry boards of the desired size and thickness.

In the manufacture of a frame, you need to very accurately comply with all cells, in which the glass blocks will be inserted and fastened.

The discrepancy between the sizes of the cells and the size of the glass blocks used is not more than 2mm. The smaller the clearance in the cells, the better the work on the installation of glass blocks will be performed.

The main difficulty of this method of installation of glass blocks occurs precisely in the manufacture frame systemSince this process requires increased attention when measuring and computing. The process of making production does not give the right to the slightest error, as this in the future will very negatively affect the appearance of the entire mounted design. The frame is assembled by gluing or swing using special hardware.

The frame is made only from a grinding dry board.

After making the frame, it is necessary to paint into the design necessary color using thin-layer paint and, of course, dry to complete drying. The painted frame is installed on a pre-prepared place and with the help of special dowels or anchors is attached to the walls, ceiling and floor.

Making sure that the frame was installed smoothly, correctly and securely secured with anchors to the walls, ceiling and floor, the installation of glass blocks begins.
The glass blocks are inserted into each prepared cell and, thus, gaining the entire partition completely.

After the set of all the glass blocks in the cell, it is necessary to fix them with a colorless silicone, applying it in the joints of the glass blocks and wooden carcass In order to avoid the fallout of glass blocks from the frame.

Silicone colorless sealant is almost invisible on the surface of any color and does not spoil after drying the appearance of the entire partition design.

Time of complete drying sealant for about 8 hours. After complete drying, Silicone resembles a frozen transparent rubber.
After drying the silicone sealant, it can be assumed that the design is ready for operation.

In the articulation places of glassballs with plasterboard should be used by a conventional putty. Silicone sealant when drying leaves traces on plasterboard.

Glass blocks are elements with a hermetic empty space, which is created by connecting two plates of glass (semi-blocks). In their form, the block is similar to empty inside the brick and in its design a little resembles a window glass window. The air inside the glass bottle gives the material high sound insulation and heat-saving characteristics.

The surface of this element is matte, completely transparent and even color. The weight of each glass block is 1.5-4.3 kg. Most often make rectangular or square glass blocks. Glass blocks can still be angular (for colon or corners), triangular and end (for finishing the edges of commonens).

Glass blocks are not worse than the glass skip daylightAs a result, in a wall folded from glass blocks, there is no need to install usual windows. In addition, the glass blocks are much stronger than normal glass. For this reason, one of them can be made internal partitions And even use for the facade of the house. But in this case, it is better to use translucent glass blocks.

The wall, folded from glass blocks, unlike the plasterboard or brick made, there is no need to stucify, hinder with wallpaper or paint, care for them is extremely simple - washed and ready.

Positive properties of glass blocks

Walls isolated from glass blocks can withstand substantial temperature differences without prejudice. These products are very durable: they are not scary even a small earthquake. In order to damage the quality glass, it is necessary to use a pretty heavy item, for example, a sledgehammer. This refers to ordinary glass blocks, and there are also bulletproof.

Using glass blocks

Glass blocks are used in the erection of unbending walls, which are not transmitted by high load. Such walls are very convenient in factories, factories and enterprises where a large number of Light, but it is impossible to use conventional windows or difficult. From glass blocks make slits on the sites of stairs - also very practical and conveniently (it is difficult to smash, simultaneously passes the flow of light). And the glass blocks are increasingly used to decorate the interior.

The installation process of blocks

Glass blocks are often put on cement mortar, as well as a simple brick, but it must be remembered that they are made of durable, but still glass, and handle them need carefully.

Glass blocks are sometimes protected by a special film. It is not worth shooting before laying, how sometimes inexperienced masters do it, but only after the end of the laying. And if you bought unprotected glass blocks, Before working, it is better to protect them with scotch.

The cement solution used for laying should not contain large particles so that the surface of the blocks does not turn out to be scratched. If it happened so that the solution fell on the surface of the glass unit, it is necessary, without waiting until it grabbing, washed off with water. In this case, it will have to read it with a knife or metal brush that exactly scratch the glass.

How to install glass blocks quickly and smooth? To do this, it is better to apply special plastic crossings. When using them and laying glass blocks will move faster, and the wall surface will be neat - there will be the same distance between the glass blocks.

After laying the walls of glass blocks, it is necessary to take care of cement seams. After all grey colour The junctions can disappear the bottom of the surface. You can, for example, losing the seams special mixturesused for tiles. And it will be much better to put glass blocks on the cement with a pigment. Such pigments can be purchased separately and add to normal cement.

Stock Foto Glass blocks in the interior

Video

We bring to your attention a video, which shows the technology of laying glass blocks.

Buying decorative glass blocks behind, now need to make the laying of glass blocks. But the question arises: "And how to lay glass blocks?". In this article, we will tell how to install glass blocks and what is the cost of such installation.

Features of laying glass blocks

Before proceeding with the direct installation of glass blocks, it is necessary to consider some features of working with them:

Glass blocks

1) Walls and partitions made of glass blocks cannot be installed as carrier supports, since the designs of glass are performed only by the following functions: decorative, heat and noise insulating and protect against dust.

2) The thickness of the glass block must be at least 7 cm, but not more than 10 cm.

3) The weight of the glass block varies from 2.4 to 4, 3 kg.

Preparation for installation of glass blocks

• Before laying glass blocks, it is important not to forget to prepare everything required tools:
• Construction level to create smooth rows of glass blocks,
• Roulette for measuring
• Pencil and cord for marking,
• Bulgarian for circumcision of unnecessary reinforcement rods,
• Foam or rubber grater for applying grouts,
• Bucket for cooking glue for glass blocks,
• Stretch construction for laying a solution from glue,
• Sponges for cleansing already erected glass blocks,
• Electrode for drilling cracks for rods in wooden bases,
• Mixer for mixing the adhesive solution,
• Perforator for drilling in brick and concrete surfaces,
• Stepladder if the glass block is high,
• The blade for removing the extra solution of glue,
• Spatula to eliminate old material
• Silicone sealant gun,
• Spatula for the extension of seams between glass blocks,
• Hammer to create a smooth surface of blocks,
• Dry cloth for cleaning and decoration of glass blocks.

Gallery Photos Tools for laying glass blocks

5. With the help of the level, align the row of glass blocks.

6. Attach K. wall design And between the glass-block rows, the fixing profile of metal or wood and lead blocks.

7. The glassbag shirma is erected. Apply a grout for cracks (seams) between block tiles.

Application of grouts on the design of glass blocks

8. Clean the excess grout with the sponge, cleaning the surface of the glass blocks.

This is a common course of work on laying glass blocks, but there are three types of installation of glass blocks. Read more about this in the article on our website "Globlocks with your own hands."

Laying glass blocks video can also be viewed here: http://www.w-interior.ru/article.php?id\u003dykladka_stekloblokov

Staying glass blocks - work price

The cost of laying glass blocks is from 2500 rubles. up to 17 thousand rubles. per square. m.

The cost of mounting varies depending on the number of blocks, their size, color solving, manufacturers, and, of course, from the complexity of the styling itself.

Customs for glass blocks can also be used various price. It depends on the specific sizes and manufacturers:

2, 3 or 5 mm - 22 rubles. (Italy)

Installation of spacer kraskov

8 mm - 25 rubles. (Italy)

5 mm - 9 rubles. (Czech Republic)

10 mm - 20 rubles. (Czech Republic)

From 2 to 5 mm - about 16 rubles. (Russia)

10 mm - 14 rubles. (Russia)

Chinese production crosses can be purchased from 12 rubles. etc.

Pick the glass blocks for your project. Large and thin glass blocks skip more light, so better fit for windows. Select size, colors and textures completely depend on your preferences.

Draw a scheme of the future design.

• Plan the design so that the blocks are included entirely. The glass bar cannot be cut.
• Between glass blocks, walls, jambs and window Ramami Provide a gap of 0.6-1 cm. Reflect the gaps in the drawing.
• Perhaps no combination of blocks will make it possible to fully fill the desired space. Be prepared to fill the remaining areas by boards or other material.