Glass blocks can be laid in three ways: traditional, with the help of modular systems and according to the BlocLock system.

The first one is universal, suitable for indoor and outdoor work, allows the construction of structures of any size and shape, however, the use of cement mortar, adhesive for ceramic tiles and glass requires skill.

The other two methods are based on the use of special modular systems for the installation of blocks or rails to which they are glued. These technologies make it possible to fold elements from glass blocks without having experience and knowledge in construction.

Inside the room, glass blocks are laid at the stage fine finishing, after installing the floor screed and plastering the walls, but before finishing the topcoats.

When used outside, glass blocks are laid when done Basic structure, and if a separate element is created, then after the foundation has hardened (after 28 days).

With the first method of masonry, an accurate calculation of the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the structure of glass blocks will be required so that an integer number of products fit in each row and there are 10 mm seams left between them.

With other methods, the accuracy of the masonry is ensured by the structural elements on which the blocks are installed.

The surface prepared for installation must always be absolutely level and horizontal.

Every third to fourth horizontal and vertical rows are reinforced with steel rods with a diameter of 4-8 mm (from of stainless steel or with anti-corrosion coating).

The reinforcement should be in the thickness of the mortar and not come into contact with the glass.

The glass block wall must be completely independent of the supporting structures adjacent to it.

In the first method of installation, the connection of the transparent section with the load-bearing main wall is made only through sliding gaskets, the anchors are fixed freely. The abutment of the glass block partitions to the ceiling and floor must be performed using elastic gaskets. Modular systems are rigidly attached.

The seams between the glass blocks are made no more than 10 mm.

When laying on a mortar, special mounting crosses made of plastic are used, which help to correctly align each element. Without crosses, if the solution dries unevenly, the wall may bend.

Materials and tools (per 1 m2 of construction)

Materials (seam - 10 mm):

• Glass blocks 190 × 190 × 80 mm - 25 pcs.
• Glass blocks 190 × 90 × 80 - 50 pcs.
• Glass blocks 240 × 240 × 80 mm - 16 pcs.
• Glue (for glass blocks or ceramic tiles) - 25 kg.
• Mounting crosses - 36 pcs.
• Stainless steel fittings with a diameter of 6-8 mm - 6-8 m.
• Joint expansion joints (cork, felt, bitumen or PVC tape) - 1-4 m, depending on the presence of an abutment to the structures.

Instruments:

• Trowel (for applying mortar).
• Level and plumb line (to check the horizontality and verticality of the erected and adjacent structures).
• Wooden slats (for setting the boundaries of the partition on the base).
• Rubber hammer (for aligning blocks).
• Knife, grout, sponge (for cutting off protruding parts of crosses, seams, cleaning the surface).

The surface of the base is cleaned of dust and grease and two wooden slats to fix the direction of stacking blocks.

Laying glass blocks for mortar: master class

An elastic compensating material is placed on the base between the slats. On the support (to which the glass blocks will adjoin), holes are made for reinforcement. A layer of mortar or glue with a thickness of about 30 mm is applied to the entire length of the base.

Installation of blocks starts from the wall (or other adjacent element), moving horizontally. On the first block in the bottom row, the mortar is applied to the side facing the wall and laid, leaving a seam with a thickness of 10 mm.

When installing the second block, the mixture is applied to the side facing the previous one. A mounting cross is inserted between the blocks in the upper part. Laying continues to the end of the row, the second row is mounted in the same way.

If the solution gets on front side, it is immediately removed (when chipping the dried cement, the block can be scratched).

The third row of masonry is reinforced with reinforcement. Two rods are placed directly on the mounting crosses, inserted into the holes in the adjoining wall, fixed with mortar (if there is no wall, the reinforcement will end flush with the outer blocks).

After every third row, the verticality of the masonry is checked with a plumb line and the installation is stopped for 1 hour when working with glue and for 1 day with a cement-sand mortar. This is necessary for the composition to set (it dries slowly on glass).

After the masonry is completely completed and the mortar has dried, the outer plates of the mounting crosses are removed, the protective film is removed from the glass blocks.

Then the grouting mixture is applied to the seams, after its setting, the surface is leveled and the blocks are cleaned.

Cement and glue stains are removed with hydrochloric or acetic acid (alkalis, solvents, hydrofluoric acid cannot be used).

To impart waterproof qualities to the seams, they are treated with a water repellent.

How to install partitions from glass blocks: using modular systems

This assembly method is only for internal works... The module is a lattice made of wood, plastic or MDF with cells calculated according to the size of a glass block.

Usually a module contains no more than 10 cells vertically and 2-4 horizontally. For a longer wall, several modules are purchased.

The maximum permissible dimensions of a structure based on a modular system is 4 × 4 m, with larger size metal profiles are mounted between its parts.

The system is screwed to the floor, walls and ceiling. Then the cells are filled with glass blocks, fixing them with rubber tabs (which make it easy to remove and replace the blocks) or sealant (it is used if it is necessary to improve the soundproofing qualities of the structure).

The frame frame takes on all the loads, protecting the glass block from them, allows you to increase the speed of construction, make the structure even and vertical.

Partitions from glass blocks according to the BlocLock system

This installation method is also intended for indoor use. It is based on the use of plastic guides, width equal to the thickness of the side wall of the block. The guides have different sizes: long ones correspond to the length of the structure, short ones correspond to the side of the block.

The system uses special glass blocks - with a profile that matches the profile of the guides and is designed for a butt joint with a width of 2-5 mm.

Starting the installation, the first long rail is glued to the horizontal base.

Then glass blocks are glued to it, joining them together in a row through short guides and fixing them with glue.

Having laid out the row completely, the next long guide is glued on top of it and similarly collected further. This method allows you to create a flat, strictly vertical, neat wall.

No reinforcement is provided, and the height of the structure should not exceed 2 m.

The kit, including the glue for connecting the elements of the system, is purchased in the store, choosing the number of blocks and guides necessary for the conceived design.

Special cases when installing glass blocks

From glass blocks, you can lay out a curved structure. When laying from whole blocks, the minimum radius of curvature is 5 m, with a smaller radius, it is better to use half glass blocks.

WITH inside the seam width is left 10 mm, with the outer one it will be larger. On the base, a template is fixed (for example, made of foam or thick cardboard), which fixes the direction along which the wall is laid. The reinforcement is also bent using a template.

It is permissible to use rods with a minimum diameter (this will not affect the strength of the masonry, since curved structures are more stable than rectilinear ones).

Sometimes it is necessary to make a door in the wall from glass blocks. Her box is attached to a metal frame P-ob different shapes with a U-shaped profile, firmly fixed to the supporting structures.

Glass blocks are laid out around the frame, using a shock-absorbing gasket with a thickness of at least 10 mm at the junction points. Similarly, a window is built into such a wall.

In the construction of glass blocks, you can use door frame width in multiples of 20 cm - 60, 80, 100, 120 cm.

Do not hang a door that is too heavy (for example, metal); it is necessary to exclude sharp blows when slamming by installing a brake device for the door leaf.

However, given the complexity of installation and operation of a door surrounded by glass, if possible, it is better to make it in a regular wall.

Pick up glass blocks for your project. Larger and thinner glass blocks let in more light and are therefore better suited for windows. The choice of size, color and texture is entirely up to your preference.

Draw a diagram of the future structure.

• Plan the structure so that the blocks fit entirely. The glass block cannot be cut.
• Between glass blocks, walls, jambs and window frames provide a gap of 0.6-1 cm. Reflect the gaps in the drawing.
• Perhaps no combination of blocks will completely fill the required space. Be prepared to fill the remaining areas with planks or other material.

Mix the solution for laying glass blocks or special glue according to the instructions. Required amount solution depends not only on the size of the structure, but also on the size of the glass blocks. Mix the mortar in portions for no more than an hour of work, in order to avoid early setting of the mortar.

Apply the first coat of mortar and lay out the first row of blocks.

• Lay down the first block. Then, apply the mixture to one side of the second block so that when laying, the mortar fills the joint between the two blocks and glues them together. When laying, apply mortar to only one side of each block.
• The gaps between walls, jambs and window frames are filled with compensation material, not mortar. Compensating material protects the blocks against temperature extremes.

Place mounting crosses between the blocks. Tap the blocks tightly to the crosses with rubber hammer... The crosses are used to align the joints and correctly distribute the load at the installation stage.

• T-shaped crosses are used around the perimeter. The first row of crosses is installed immediately after the first row of blocks has been laid. T-shaped crosses must be nailed or screwed to the adjoining walls.
• X-shaped crosses are installed between the blocks. Using crosses, the joints between the blocks are aligned.
• Place the crosses exactly in the middle so that they do not interfere with subsequent seams. Apply a second coat of mortar over the first row.

To increase the structure, lay with reinforcement every 30 cm.

• The horizontal reinforcement must be pressed into a thin layer of mortar.
• Connect the armature to the side brackets. The side holders should protrude from the wall by at least 2-3 cm.

Finishing the seams. Before the mortar sets, process the seams with a jointing trowel. The seams should be smooth and concave.

• Except for very small structures, you will have to regularly stop erecting and return to sewing. Do not try to assemble the entire structure at once.

Glass blocks, by analogy with bricks, are laid on an ordinary mortar of sand and cement. Nevertheless, one should not forget that this material is made of glass and must be handled with care, even with care. To avoid complications when laying glass blocks, it is better to adhere to simple recommendations that have been developed by experts over decades of practical work.

Protective film on the surface of glass blocks

Initially, the glass blocks are covered with a transparent protective film.

It is necessary so that the glass surface is not damaged during transportation and installation. The film protects glass blocks from chips, small possible impacts and scratches. Especially relevant protective film for glass blocks with a matte surface, where every defect will be noticeable.

Craftsmen who do not have sufficient experience often remove the protective film before laying, and thus make a mistake. Experts advise you to remove it after all the work is completely completed. Otherwise, the glass blocks can be easily damaged.

This advice should not be neglected. What is the risk of a small scratch? It would seem - it's okay. However, any scratch is already an unpleasant phenomenon in itself, and besides this, dirt in the form of the smallest particles will accumulate in it over time, and the glass blocks will lose their "presentation" very quickly.

If a protective film is not provided on the glass blocks (and this happens quite often), you can glue their surface with ordinary tape. This will ensure that nothing unpleasant happens during the installation process.

Cement mortar for laying glass blocks

The ideal solution for laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand and impurities.

Again, glass blocks are very easy to scratch during installation, and a solution that contains coarse sand is, in fact, an analogue of sandpaper.

If during operation the solution gets on face surface block, you cannot scrape it off with tools. It is also not worth waiting for it to dry. Best to wash it off warm water an ordinary soft cloth.

Metal rods for laying glass blocks

Professionals advise

always reinforce the glass block structure.

Especially if the structure is supposed to be massive. For example, a wall. The best solution- special metal rods that can be purchased at almost any building supermarket. The rods must be selected with a cross section of five millimeters. And they are installed both horizontally and vertically.

Phased construction

Any massive construction of glass blocks should be erected in stages. It is recommended to lay no more than three rows per day. Otherwise, if this rule is not followed, the wall may turn out to be uneven, and in some cases the lower blocks may even crack under the weight of the upper rows.

The fact is that, unlike, for example, bricks, glass blocks adhere worse to cement mortar. Therefore, the structure under its own weight can "go".

Spacer crosses when laying glass blocks

Mounting crosses significantly speed up the laying of glass blocks

and provide strictly the same distance between the blocks - the wall of glass blocks will turn out to be perfectly flat and neat. They are made of plastic, are inexpensive, and you can buy them at any hardware store.

Seams in glass block construction

Immediately after erecting a structure from glass blocks (and most likely in advance), you need to think about the seams and joints. Ordinary gray joints made from ordinary cement-sand mortar do not look very attractive; it is best to purchase special grout for joints. The range of grouting joints today is huge. There is a choice among manufacturers, color scheme and for the price.

Grouts are sold in the form of dry mixes. You just need to add a certain amount of water to the mixture (see instructions on the package) and mix the contents thoroughly.

But even better is to lay glass blocks on colored cement. It can be purchased at the same building supermarkets. Such cement will cost a little more than ordinary cement, but the result is worth it. And you can buy just special pigments, with which it is easy to paint an ordinary gray solution.

Wooden modules for glass blocks

Sometimes, in order not to mess with the solution and, in principle, a rather laborious process of laying glass blocks, you can use special modules. They represent something like a wooden lattice, each of the cells of which is designed for a glass block.

The construction process is very simple. You need to insert glass blocks into the cells and fix everything with a gasket. The benefits are obvious - simplicity, convenience, ideal appearance... In addition, such a structure can be moved from place to place, if the need arises.

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Partition from glass blocks – it is a modern approach to the furnishing of the interior of a house or apartment.

This material, which was not distinguished by particular sophistication, was widely used in public buildings earlier.

A glass block is a block of thick glass plates fused into a single structure. Inside such a block, a sealed, air cavity is formed, which increases the sound and heat insulation parameters.

In other words, a glass block is a kind of glass bricks of various shapes, from which it is possible to make masonry of various building and interior elements.

Advantages

Due to its structure, the glass block has the following advantages:

1. Natural materials in the composition ensure environmental friendliness.
2. Unique properties: high mechanical strength(including compression and impact) and wear resistance, resistance to low and high temperatures, as well as temperature extremes.
3. Increased heat and sound insulation properties that are not inferior to hollow bricks.
4. Fire safety provided by the non-combustibility of the material.
5. Ease of installation and further maintenance. The blocks can be cleaned with any detergent.
6. Absolute moisture and water resistance, which makes it possible to use as outdoor elements and in rooms with high humidity, even in water.
7. Decorativeness. The glass block surface does not require additional topcoats. Modern blocks have different colors and shape, which makes it possible to create the desired, attractive design.

An important distinctive feature glass blocks is the ability to transmit scattered Sun rays and provide a kind of room lighting... At the same time, the opacity of the elements protects from prying eyes.

disadvantages

Like any building material, glass blocks also have certain disadvantages that must be taken into account during construction:

1. Large weight significantly increases the weight of the entire building structure... Given this property, it is undesirable to erect walls and partitions with an area of ​​more than 16 m².
2. The increased cost of decorative glass blocks, which can reach 1500-1700 rubles / piece. At the same time, you can use ordinary blocks of economy class with a cost of 100-130 rubles / piece.
3. Problems arising when fixing shelves and fixing various items, because it is difficult to fix a screw or a nail in glass blocks. They can be solved using other, typical fasteners and suction cups.

In general, glass blocks continue to be unfairly considered an exotic material. This attitude is developed due to the mistrust of the strength of glass. However, the glass block is quite difficult to destroy even with hammer blows, and their use is limited, perhaps, only by the increased cost.

What are the types of glass blocks?

Modern glass blocks do not have a legalized classification, but the following main criteria for distribution by type can be distinguished:

1. Block size. The most common glass blocks square shape 19x19 and 24x24 cm in size, 8-10 cm thick, as well as rectangular elements 19x9x8 and 24x11.5x8 cm in size. The weight of bricks depends on the size and is in the range of 3-4.5 kg.
2. The form. In addition to the most common square and rectangular options, glass blocks are produced in triangular, round shapes, as well as in the form of a hexagon and the letter "G". Elements can have sharp, straight or rounded corners.
3. Color palette and inner filling. The color of glass blocks can be different - from unpainted glass to bright shades (red, blue, black, etc.). There is usually an air cavity inside, but some models use decorative elements that are fused inside the block and create a certain pattern.
4. Surface structure. Elements can have a smooth, glossy, corrugated, patterned surface. In addition, products with a matte surface are produced. The light transmission of the material depends on the structure.
5. Glass element thickness... This indicator is responsible for strength, specific gravity and some other characteristics of the material. Most often, blocks are made of glass with a thickness of 5.5-7 mm.
6. Mechanical strength. The standard elements have a fairly high strength, but in addition, high-strength glass blocks are offered, which are able to withstand even a bullet from a gun.
7. Optical parameters... Products for this characteristic have a wide range - from almost transparent to opaque options. Glass blocks can provide directional or diffuse light flux.

Finally, the glass blocks are distributed by appointment... There are such main categories - decorative, interior and building blocks... They differ in appearance, size, color, strength and other parameters.

Features of interior glass blocks

With the help of glass blocks, you can create a beautiful and original interior inside the room or form a decorating surface outside the house.

The following areas of application are especially popular:

1. Wall. By laying glass blocks, you can build even and fairly strong walls. The best option- rooms with high humidity (bathroom, sauna, bathroom), where the high water resistance of the material is useful. At the same time, glass is not susceptible to decay, the development of mold and fungi. You can lay out the entire wall from such elements or combine with other materials (for example,).
2. Partitions. The construction of zoning partitions from glass blocks is one of the most demanded solutions. Most often, with their help, places for swimming are separated. Glass blocks are harmoniously combined with tiles, which ensures the preservation of the chosen design style.
3. Window. A panoramic wall is laid out of glass blocks, and the transparency of the material ensures the performance of the role of a window. A room with a window-wall will be quite light and insulated.
4. Floors. The material in question can be an excellent substitute ceramic tiles On the floor. The use of corrugated elements eliminates the slipperiness of the glass, and the appearance provides an original design.
5. Furniture. Glass blocks are used in the creation of stationary furniture. The facades of them look great for the bar counter. From them you can build a table or coffee table, bedside table, wardrobe. In this case, the blocks are used both as a frame or facade, and for the formation of a table top.
6. Decorating elements. There are practically no boundaries for the use of glass blocks in the interior of a room. Their use as decorative elements ensures the fulfillment of any fantasies. Products with internal decorative inserts allow you to create a picture with a three-dimensional effect on the wall. Such a picture is easily cleaned of dirt and retains the paint for a long time. With the help of glass blocks, the interior can be decorated in modern style(loft, hi-tech, modern), art-style or baroque. Stained-glass windows in the Art Nouveau style with classical or oriental themes look great. Arches, niches, columns are laid out of glass bricks. Built into the wall individual elements can play the role of spotlights.

Modern trends in interior planning allow you to give different functions to walls and partitions made of glass blocks. The most typical solution is room zoning... In this case, partitions can occupy the entire space from floor to ceiling or be installed with height restrictions (for example, a bar counter).

Another interesting feature is light transmission... There is no need to insert windows in the walls made of glass blocks, the light flux penetrates the entire surface. At the same time, depending on the type of product, good illumination or semi-darkness is provided.

The functionality of glass-block walls expands the heat and sound insulation properties of the material. Such walls are able to retain heat well without requiring additional coatings and decoration. Water resistance makes it possible to equip a separate bathroom, shower or bathroom.

Installation of partitions from glass blocks

Laying glass blocks with your own hands can be done different ways... It is important to structural element had support (load-bearing wall or rack). The most typical installation methods:

1. Traditional or classic method... It needs frame guides made of wooden beam or metal profile... The glass elements are bonded with a cement-based mortar or special glue.
2. Wireframe option. In this case, first the frame structure, in which the blocks are fixed with seals and sealant.

Installation of glass blocks must be carried out after proper preparation of the site. It must be kept in strict accordance with the previously developed laying scheme, for which a thorough marking is provided first. The detailed layout is especially important when laying. decorative elements, drawings and patterns.

Traditional masonry

The classic laying of blocks with glue or mortar begins with the manufacture of the base - guide frame.

It is most often made from timber, but you can use a steel or aluminum corner.

For this, the first row of blocks is laid out with the installation of plastic dividers between them.

The dimensions of this row are precisely measured and the frame is assembled according to these dimensions. It is attached to the floor. A frame of the same width is installed strictly vertically on both walls and fixed to it with dowels.

To strengthen the structure, a reinforcing mesh is used. It is formed from galvanized steel wire horizontally and vertically. Their location should coincide with the seams between the glass blocks.

To exclude direct contact between glass and wire, plastic crosses are used when installing the reinforcing mesh. Holes are drilled to fix the fittings in the wall and bottom frame.

To fasten the glass blocks together, a special glue is used, preferably white... You can cook it yourself cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3.

The blocks are laid in the following order:

1. Layout and installation of guide frames.
2. Installation of vertical reinforcing bars.
3. A layer of glue or mortar with a thickness of up to 10 mm is applied to the surface of the frame. The solution is also applied to the side faces of the blocks and the first row is laid. To fix the reinforcement and ensure the same width of the seam, crosses are installed, which remain in the masonry and are simply rubbed with mortar.
4. The bottom row is horizontally aligned with a mallet and checked with a building level. Further, a horizontal reinforcing bar is installed on top of the blocks and fixed in the wall hole.
5. All subsequent rows are laid in the same way.

Taking into account the severity of the elements, it is recommended to erect the wall in parts of 4-5 rows with a break for solidification of the solution. This will eliminate the danger of blocks sinking. After the completion of the masonry, a neat grout is made. Silicone compound can be used for sealing.

Frame technology

The technique "on the frame" allows you to lay glass blocks without mortar, but for this you need to install special frame system.

Basically, it is a metal or wood structure in which cells are formed to accommodate glass elements.

The dimensions of the cell should not exceed the dimensions of the glass block by more than 1.5-2 mm.

For metal system usually an aluminum profile is used. Wooden structure assembled from polished boards, the width of which is equal to the width of the bricks.

The entire structure is carefully calibrated horizontally and vertically using building level and a plumb line. Then the frame is painted in the desired color, in harmony with the blocks.

The finished frame system is securely attached to the floor, wall and ceiling using dowels. Glass blocks are carefully installed into the cells, after which they are fixed with silicone-based seals. The solidification time of such a sealant is about 9-10 hours.

Required tools

At typical installation DIY glass blocks you need such a tool:

• puncher;
• Bulgarian;
• hacksaw for metal;
• spatulas;
• notched glue spatulas;
• mallet;
• hammer;
• paint brush.

To carry out measurements and quality control, you need:

• roulette;
• metal ruler;
• square;
• building level;
• plumb line.

If it becomes necessary to make a wooden frame, then additionally it is necessary to prepare a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a chisel.

The use of glass blocks in the interior of a room is gaining more and more popularity. This is facilitated by high performance characteristics, strength and durability of the material.

Modern glass blocks are produced in a wide range, which makes it possible to choose according to color, shape and other parameters. Self-assembly allows you to somewhat reduce the main drawback of the material - price.

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Laying glass blocks with your own hands cannot be done without special diligence and attention. But if you take into account all the nuances and subtleties of installing glass blocks, then this procedure will turn into an exciting experience.

Before you install glass blocks with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with all (there are three of them!) Ways of installing a glass structure. Each method has its own duration, cost and labor intensity.

The traditional way of laying glass blocks with your own hands

The first method is cheaper, simpler and takes little time, but at the same time it is not very aesthetic, which is its main disadvantage compared to other methods.

Preparatory work

Laying glass blocks

1. Clean the surfaces of the walls, ceiling and floor, that is, those places where the glass blocks will be installed, from dust, chalk, linoleum and other old materials. 2. Mark the location of the future glass block structure directly on the surface of the bases along their entire length using a level, a pencil and a cord. 3. Start making the solution, with which the glass blocks will be fastened.

Apply cement mortar in the following proportion:

• one bucket of cement,
• three buckets of clean river sand,
• one bucket of water,
• 200 gr. PVA glue for better adhesion and plasticity of the adhesive solution. Or just use a special dry mix for laying tiles from tiles or bricks.

Photo gallery preparatory work before laying glass blocks

Important! If you decide to use cement, then buy it better than white.

4. Having decided on the choice of the mixture, stir the solution thoroughly in a plastic container using a mixer and an electric drill and leave to "ripen" for about 5 minutes. Then mix gently again.

Important! If the glue solution is not very thick, it is prepared correctly, but it should not drain from the trowel during the laying of glass blocks. And this solution cannot be used again, since after drying it will lose its adhesive properties.

DIY glass brick laying

Drilling holes for rebar

1. Install the first two reinforcement rods on the floor surface.

Important! These rods should be either stainless steel or galvanized to prevent rust from forming on the outside of the masonry and impairing the appearance of the glass block structure. Also, due to corrosion, the block system will weaken.

So, drill holes in the wall, in which after and place the first two rods.

Important! Drill the holes at the very border of the floor and wall. The distance between them should ensure the placement of reinforcement between the inner walls of the glass blocks.

Installation of reinforcing bars

Important! Lay not only horizontal but also vertical rods after laying the glass blocks of the first and subsequent rows. And don't forget to drill holes!

2. The first two rods are loaded. Apply the glue solution to the entire surface of the substrates with a trowel. 3. Take your time to lay the glass blocks, while simultaneously inserting vertical rods and filling the gaps adhesive solution... With the help of spacer crosses for glass blocks, which must be installed in each joint between the blocks, you can control the thickness of the gaps between the glass "bricks" so that it is the same.

Laying the first row of glass blocks

4. After laying the glass blocks with your own hands, remove the remnants of the solution with a damp sponge or cloth, and iron the seams between the blocks with a jointing trowel.

Important! If you assemble glass blocks with your own hands, and fill the seams between them with colored grout, then a spatula is not needed. It is necessary to free the gaps for grouting with a spatula.

5. When the installation of glass blocks comes to an end and it remains to lay 3 or 4 glass blocks, then do the same operations that were performed when drilling holes in the floor, but now in the ceiling.

Cleaning the joints between glass blocks

6. Installation of glass blocks is complete. Again, clean the seams between the blocks from the glue and their very surface. A fully glass block structure will dry out within 5 to 10 days. 7. After the construction of the glass blocks is completely dry, rub the holes between the blocks diagonally with a grout using a rubber or foam float. Better with a moisture-resistant grout, so that the glass-block partition will serve you for more than a dozen years. 8. Remove the remaining solution from the glass blocks again. To completely remove small excess grout and give the glass block structure a dazzling shine, wipe its surface with a clean and dry cloth.

Glass blocks - DIY installation of arched walls and partitions

Curved glass brick partition

Do correct styling do it yourself glass blocks, if the walls and partitions have a rounded appearance, you can follow the same instructions as above.

but differences of this styling from the previous one there is:

1) Reinforcement rods are bent in those places where the partition or wall is rounded, according to their shape.

2) Set the crosses for glass blocks only inside the curvatures so that the thickness of the hidden seams does not change. Outside the walls, the seams automatically take the same width.

Important! If you want to fragmentarily round the wall with glass blocks, then use the so-called. "Halves" of blocks. This, firstly, will give your structure strength, and secondly, the internal and external seams will practically not diverge in thickness.

Do-it-yourself frame way of laying glass blocks

Frame made of wood

Technology frame method the installation of glass blocks is much more difficult than the traditional one. This method is more expensive and more aesthetically pleasing than the traditional method.

In addition, the frame option the installation of glass blocks has a huge advantage: it is practically not used cement mix with glue, and the design is lighter.

Preparatory work

1. Measure the dimensions of the space for the future glass-block partition.

Assembling the frame

2. Based on the obtained parameters, make from dry and smooth boards required thickness and the size of a wooden frame. Important! The dimensions of the cells in which the glass blocks will be installed must provide a gap of no more than 2 mm.

Assemble the frame either by gluing or unscrew it using special fasteners.

3. Wooden frame ready. Paint it in the desired color using a thin layer paint, and dry until completely dry.

4. Install the painted frame in the previously prepared space and attach it to the walls, floor and ceiling using anchors or dowels.

Laying glass blocks with your own hands

Installation of glass blocks

1. Insert glass blocks into each well prepared earlier.

2. When all the cells are filled with glass blocks, fix them with colorless silicone. To do this: apply this sealant to all joints between the glass blocks and the frame so that the glass "bricks" never fall out.

3. Let the sealant dry for about 8 hours. Important! Use a simple putty where the glass blocks meet the drywall. Otherwise, when the sealant dries, traces will remain on the drywall sheets.