A drilling jig is an indispensable attribute in large-scale production, no matter what. Where there is a lot of drilling, it is really necessary, especially when production is batch or mass.

With the help of a conductor pretty much production is accelerated, the work of the worker is facilitated.

The drilling jig, as a rule, is a bar (plate) with holes and bushings (sleeves). By means of a jig, it is much easier, for example, to drill pipes.

As for the production of furniture, they are also used here, although recently.

With the help of such equipment, the manufacturer is relieved of the following problems:

• Markup.
• Center punching (point indentations in the material for a drill).
• Perpendicular drilling.

The latter is especially difficult to do, since it requires serious skills acquired only over the years.

Some operations, for example, drilling for dowels (short wooden rods designed for hidden joining of parts), require very accurate marking, and no less accurate drilling at an angle of 90 °.

With such a device as a conductor, these tasks can be solved easily and easily.

Types: choose the one you want

Overhead... They do not need to be fixed prior to their intended use. Structurally simple, mobile, but they need to be held with a hand free from a drill, since often the equipment is not fixed in a special device, which is not very convenient. Considering simplicity of design making it yourself is quite simple. It is used when drilling chipboard and MDF.

Jigs for drilling holes at an angle... The design is easy to imagine as the name speaks for itself. Such equipment can also be invoiced. In production quality furniture drilling at an angle is also present, which is not the easiest operation in the production process - this requires skill. Although in this case the desired angle is sometimes violated, the assembly as a result will no longer be of such high quality and suffers appearance furniture, especially if it is not made of chipboard, but made of wood - here you cannot fill in an ugly drill. The snap the desired design completely eliminates unnecessary problems.

Rotary conductors... They have folding brackets, and this allows you to drill on two adjacent planes.

Sliding gearboxes... With their help, several holes can be drilled without reinstallation. To work with such equipment, the necessary skills are still required.

Device for drilling holes for dowels and confirmations

Despite the fact that today a lot of new accessories have appeared in the furniture industry, the good old dowel is still used today. This is due to the fact that connections are not visible through this piece of fittings, and this is especially valuable in the production of furniture from natural wood.

As already mentioned, drilling for dowels creates many problems for furniture makers, especially those who are not qualified.

To furniture planes were perfectly docked, accurate marking is required, and this equipment allows you to speed up the work and bring the quality to the desired level.

Working with confirmations - special furniture screws - is less troublesome, but it also requires certain skills. And given how many holes you need to mark and drill, before you screw the confirmation in one piece of furniture, such a device will greatly speed up the work, and its quality too.

The simplest devices

1. The jig is two-slide. It allows you to drill holes in two adjacent (mating) parts. The fixture is constructed of two rulers that serve as guides and are connected to fastening bar... The holes made in it make it possible to install the bar on the parts. different widths... Housings moved along the rulers (replaceable) have a set of guide bushings, where the distances between them are different. The jig is fixed by means of a connecting strip, on the opposite side there is a travel stop, which is tightened by a wing screw.
2. The jig is multi-position. Fastened with clamps. The design allows vertical drilling. It is made of a thick-walled aluminum corner. Since the device is of considerable length, it is equipped with an intermediate fixture in the center of the structure. The thick wall of the corner has been very successfully applied, which cannot be overestimated at the moment the fixture is applied to the surface of the part and when the jig is reinstalled by 90 °. The selection of the distance between the bushings is carried out according to the most common values ​​provided for the installation of dowels or confirmations.

How to work with a conductor:

• The device is fixed on the workpiece.
• The sleeve is inserted into the hole.
• Drilled through the sleeve.

DIY furniture conductor: dimensional drawings to help

The principle of this rig:

1. Corner body. It is superimposed on the plane of the parts, which will then be connected to each other.
2. Guide bushings. The drill will enter through them.
3. Clamping devices. They fix the jig and are made from the end part.

The design of your own jig should be based on the fact that with the help of this equipment it was possible to do most of the work performed related to fasteners of various types.

Important! If you need a universal assistant - this concerns professional furniture makers, it would be better to purchase industrial equipment, which is made more accurately and of high quality. It is such a device that will be preferable and will quickly pay for itself, especially if we also take into account the fact that many different templates, stops and other little things that are also necessary in the work are often attached to this device. They cost much less than retail.

And yet this device, if necessary, can be made by hand.

Such equipment, perhaps, is not needed very often in a particular production, and even more so for a home craftsman. So for many users it will be much more profitable to do it yourself.

If the design remains relevant, then you need to prepare materials for the manufacture of a homemade conductor for drilling for confirmation:

• Corner... You should stop your choice on the unequal form of this rental - its possibilities are wider. The corner shelf must be selected with the greatest thickness, which can be up to 8 mm. This is quite reasonable, since then it is possible to insert the guide bushings, outside diameter which reaches 6 mm. Based on this, drills from 3.5 to 4 mm can be used. Even if that diameter is not enough, then the material is drilled with a large drill, without using any other devices.
• Guide bushings... Here, pipes from of stainless steel, which are selected primarily by the inner diameter. Example: A 6x1.5 pipe is suitable for a drill with a maximum diameter of 2.7. Explanation: its inner hole will be 3 mm, and a small gap along the entire inner diameter is taken into account due to the thermal expansion of the material. Sleeve length is the depth of the hole in the corner multiplied by two or more. Landing of the bushings is either transitional, or with an interference fit, or along the shaft system. The latter is the most appropriate.

Instead of pipes, of course, you can use ready-made bushings used in wire-pulling devices - such are available, for example, in mechanical engineering. Such parts (even used ones) will come in handy: they are made of alloy steels and have an almost unlimited service life.

Choosing a mounting method

The options are:

• Fixation with self-tapping screws... They are screwed into the part, which prevents the device from displacement due to frictional force. This is convenient because these marks will be needed for subsequent drilling of other holes.
• Spring stop... It will securely fix the jig to the part. For such a stop, a flat spring with an appropriate clamping force is suitable.
• External clamps... It is necessary to put rubber pads under them. Corrugated rubber is ideal as a material. This, of course, slightly increases the weight of the rig, and the elasticity of the pads can negatively affect the perpendicularity of the bushings. To prevent this from happening, the drill is inserted into the sleeve in order to mark the hole, and only then the clamps are clamped.

For drilling pipes and cylindrical parts

V modern furniture not only chipboard, fiberboard, MDF and wood are used. As additional elements can be applied steel tubes of various diameters. Plated with chrome or stainless steel, they perfectly complement the overall furniture ensemble.

It is very difficult to drill a spherical surface - the drill strives to slip to the side. And it's not so easy to mark when there are many holes and they are located in several rows.

So that the notorious colander does not come out of the pipe, but the correct part with precisely made holes, you will need a conductor - this is perfect solution in the current situation.

There are steel conductors made in the form of an adjustable clamp. This design feature allows pipes to be clamped in them. different diameters and drill holes in them with high precision.

Unable to make such a device, you can use junk materials by making an even simpler device using a block and a strip of plywood. So, a bar cut along a diagonal into circular saw, can be nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 ° to the plywood. The resulting device is superimposed on top of the pipe, and a strip of plywood, resting on a table or workbench, does not allow the given angle to be violated. Pre-drilled holes in the bar of the required diameter are placed taking into account the required distances between future holes, which will allow you to quickly and accurately drill the pipe exactly according to the drawings.

DIY furniture conductors and templates

How conductors are made is now clear, as well as their need for furniture production.

Not only conductors, but also templates are needed in furniture production. The simplest pattern, sometimes it will save a lot of time and make it possible to drill no less accurate than the conductor.

For example, the simplest metal prefabricated overhead template, consisting of two sheet blanks measuring 130 × 70 mm and a steel square with a cross section of 20 mm. They are connected to each other with screws at the top of the structure - so they are attached to the square. The square is drilled for the bushings, into which the latter are pressed. Such a device for drilling holes in the end face of a part made of chipboard will make it possible to drill without thinking at all about marking and perpendicular drilling... And the price of this rig is lower than any idea of ​​savings.

Instead of metal, you can and should use those materials that are inexpensive and easily processed.

Materials:

• Plywood.
• Textolite or fiberglass - preferably thick.
• Hardwood.
• Hardboard or its analogue.

It must be borne in mind that these materials are short-lived, and in order that the devices do not have to be made every day, it is quite reasonable to press metal tubes into them.

In conclusion, it is worth taking stock of what has been said. Making a conductor or a template yourself or buying it in a store is a matter for each individual. If a home craftsman needs to make some kind of furniture in a single copy and there is material for the conductor, as well as the possibility of making it, you can use this. It is possible that such equipment will never be useful to the master again.

But if even a small furniture workshop is engaged in the production of serial furniture, and enough people work in it, it is probably easier to purchase something ready-made, especially since these irreplaceable helpers they will need several copies of the masters.

In the latter case, it makes sense to purchase more expensive, accurate and durable conductors instead of making artisanal ones, which are less accurate and durable.

Good luck in your work!

The main fastener in the assembly of furniture is the confirmation. It is screwed in with a pre-drilled hole. It is the drilling of assembly holes in the chipboard for confirmations that we will consider in this article.

To assemble the chipboard parts, we need:

• Screwdriver
• Bit for confirmation
• Ruler or tape measure
• Pencil and awl

Hole depth and width

When usually use a confirmat with a size of 6.4 * 50. Because the diameter of the thread is 6.4 mm, and the diameter of the confirmation body is 4.4 mm, then for high-quality fastening parts, the hole diameter should be in the range of 4.5-5 mm and a depth of at least 50 mm.

If the thickness of the hole is greater than the specified one, the confirmation will not hold the parts well, if it is less, it can break the chipboard with its thickness.

For drilling, a confirmatory drill with a diameter of 4.5 mm is used, which is equipped with an additional head for drilling an enlarged hole under the neck of the confirmation, which also makes a countersink under its head.

Of course, you can use and conventional drill with a diameter of 5 mm, but for high-quality fastening in the hole, you will additionally need to make a place for the neck of the confirmat and its cap.

In order to perfectly fasten the two parts, it is necessary to mark the places of their attachment as accurately as possible.

On the part that will be superimposed on the end (the one on which through hole), you need to make two measurements - along the length (usually 5-10 cm) and from the edge - exactly 8 mm (this is if the plate thickness is 16 mm).

On a part that lies perpendicularly, mark the drilling point at the end. Here you need to maintain the same distance in length (5-10 cm from the beginning), and in width - strictly in the center (8 mm from the edge).

The markings must be done as accurately as possible, especially along the length, because if the markings are incorrect, your parts may have extra gaps or protrusions when joining.

It is better to make a through hole in the first part, attach it to the second - and immediately mark the place of drilling at the end of the second part with a drill. And then, separately already, calmly drill the hole.

We make a hole at a distance of 8 mm from the edge.

The drill should ALWAYS be held strictly perpendicular to the surface

Before making a through hole, place a piece of unnecessary chipboard under the part. This will prevent chips from appearing on the back.

When a through hole is made, the part can be drilled by weight to drill holes for the neck and head of the confirmation.

The main rule is that when drilling in the end face, the drill should be strictly perpendicular to the end face of the part. If you do not hold the drill straight, the drill may slip to the side and outward, thereby ruining the part.

When drilling, you need to pull out the drill several times so that chips do not clog in the hole.

This option is considered the most accurate and, moreover, the fastest. But in order to make a hole in two parts at the same time, you will need to fix them before drilling. This may require special clamps, clamps and other devices.

Hole drilling attachments

In order not to mark each time 8 mm from the edge both into the layer and along the end, you can use a special device, which, by the way, is easy to make yourself.

It is a kind of wooden template with a metal drill sleeve inside.

It looks like this, see the photo:

And this is a more professional thing:

Look short video for precise drilling of holes in chipboard for confirmation and assembly of furniture parts:

Drilling for dowels

The hole for the dowels is made with an 8 mm drill. Also, in order not to drill through the part, it is advisable to equip it with a depth stop.

At the end, we drill with the same drill to a depth of 20 mm. Do not forget that for any work, the drill must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the part.

Of course, if this is the first time in your life you have taken a drill in hand, you will not succeed very well. But this lesson can be learned pretty quickly.

Precise drilling used to connect wood, metal and other elements to each other is a guarantee that the product will be of high quality, without backlash, durable and will be effectively used for a long time. When chipboard processing, OSB, MDF and other materials are recommended to use a jig to achieve successful results.

The need for an assistive device

A do-it-yourself drilling jig helps both in domestic conditions and during industrial processing. This product is a thick metal bar. It has several holes, inside of which there are special bushings - sleeves.

Template engines can be produced in different options, but the task is the same for everyone - marking for drilling

A step-by-step algorithm that assumes using a jig to drill holes in workpieces consists of the following steps:

• we determine the place of drilling;
• we apply a conductor to it;
• fix the device in a convenient way;
• put sleeves in the holes;
• we drill in the indicated places.

Classification of markers

The do-it-yourself jig is used in different areas production activities. Based on similar characteristics, auxiliary devices of the same type are usually divided into several groups:

Surface-mounted jig for drilling holes

Surface-mounted jig with a turret is suitable for drilling typical holes for dowels of any size

The group is called this way because of the way it is exploited. It is customary to install the product on top of the intended workpiece and fix it with screw clamps. Less often, at home, it is based on an emphasis on a plane. So you can mark holes for furniture screws.

Rotary jig for drilling holes

Use such a jig for drilling at an angle. Convenient handling is achieved by the guide bushings.

Tilting jig for drilling holes

Tilting to work on multiple surfaces

The group is involved in drilling on several surfaces located at an angle to each other.

Sliding Hole Drilling Jig

They are in demand in those areas where it will not be possible to fix the marker. The guide sleeves are attached to the flap bars.

Not only jigs are widely used for drilling holes for confirmation, but templates are also used in mechanical engineering, when it is necessary to make a lot of the same type of drills in workpieces.

This device has many advantages:

• it is possible to achieve maximum accuracy in finished products;
• ease of use;
• the ability to repeat the center distance on any surfaces at a convenient time;
• affordable cost of the finished product;
• you can make a homemade jig for any workpieces and different center distances.

VIDEO: How to make a self-centering jig for drilling holes for furniture dowels

Scope of application

In the process of assembling furniture, some drawings indicate the places for drilling holes, inside which the pins will be located. In such a situation, you cannot do without an accurate instrument. Simple markings will not be able to match the mates on the parts to be connected as clearly as possible, so a furniture jig will come in handy for drilling holes.

Even a simple device in the form of a bar with an emphasis greatly facilitates and speeds up the process of making holes of the same type.

In addition, the template engine helps to quickly find the necessary points after the marker is based. In addition to the holes for the dowels, depressions for mounting are required. door hinges... They can also be done using a rigid stencil.

Marking and drilling many holes at an angle or perpendicular, in the end or on the main surface in the pipe without help is always problematic. This is due to the special geometry of the workpiece. You will also be able to save time and get the desired result thanks to the conductor. The set of accessories can be supplemented with an installation that ensures the perpendicularity of the drill entry.

Difference between store bought and homemade

The importance of this equipment, which performs an auxiliary function, cannot be overemphasized. Someone prefers to do it with my own hands so that the product has the necessary functionality and is suitable for a specific job. Other experts strive to choose the most comfortable product from the products offered in online stores.

When buying, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer. The final price tag depends on the capabilities of the template. At home, it is enough to use household items, and for daily operations it is worth getting a professional product.

Self-production does not take much time. Also suitable materials always at hand.

Homemade device

It must be borne in mind that this device includes a certain number of parts:

• corpus corner piece, which must be applied alternately to the workpieces intended for connection with dowels or self-tapping screws;
• guide sleeve-sleeves through which the drill will pass during the drilling process;
• clamps that provide a strong connection between the tool and workpieces due to a screw or cam connection.

A homemade template should include drawings and markings that are most often found at home on furniture and other areas. You will need to stock up on special stops to help you work. The average cost of finished samples will be about 500-1000 rubles. The difference between them lies in the dimensions, functionality and the number of guide bushings.

Assembly drawing of a homemade scribe

How to make a jig for drilling holes with your own hands

Designing begins with the choice of a corner, which will serve as a basic blank. It is preferable to choose a base with different sides, as well as the largest possible metal thickness. According to GOST 8510, products with side parameters 63x40 mm and 8 mm thick will be the most acceptable. With such dimensions, it will be possible to use bushings 6 mm long, but it remains inner space for drill no more than 4 mm in diameter.

In most cases, these values ​​are enough to make your own template with your own hands. Additionally, you will need bushings, which at home are usually cut from stainless steel, corresponding to GOST 9941 or GOST 9940 for seamless and all-welded pipes, respectively.

It is worth starting the choice with the selection of the tube along the inner section. Usually a 6x1 mm format is used, which gives ease of use for drills with a diameter of 3.6-3.7 mm. It is important to observe the rule that the minimum sleeve length can be twice the outer diameter of the tube.

The liner is fitted with a slight interference or in a transitional format. It is reasonable to implement it in the shaft system, because the stable outer diameter of the tube will serve as the basis. It is under it that the voids are drilled in the corner. It is worth using the h9 / P10 fit.

In some cases, a marker is required to make holes deep enough. This technique assumes the presence of a stepped sleeve with collars. The strict GOST 12214 defines the parameters for machine jigs.

How many sockets to drill and how to arrange them, the owner of the tool determines independently according to his needs. Traditionally, one of the following mounting options is chosen:

• with the help of a spring-loaded stop that presses the jig to the part thanks to the elastic material;
• on the self-tapping screws, you can rigidly fix the conductor, but when working with chipboard and similar materials should refrain from this method;
• external clamps, under which there are rubberized gaskets for safety.

VIDEO: How to make a marker for dowels

In the process of assembling or repairing furniture, it is often necessary to perform work on precise drilling of holes for confirmation, for dowels, dowels and other furniture fasteners. In the case of wood and chipboard, it is difficult to make such holes using only an electric drill: the entrance part of the hole is broken, and it itself may not turn out at a right angle to the mating surfaces. Thus, you will need a jig to drill the holes.

Purpose and classification of furniture conductors

The purpose of the jig for drilling holes is to precisely direct the drill to the required point, and to ensure the straightness of the tool stroke throughout the entire depth of the hole obtained. In metalworking, such devices have been known for a long time, and are often supplied with the machine. Due to the increased number of closed connections in modern furniture products, the need for such conductors for woodworking specialists is very urgent.

There are the following types of furniture conductors:

1. Appliques that do not require fixing before starting to use. They are simple, mobile, but they force you to use only one hand when drilling (if the drill or grinder is not installed in a special bed). Making such a jig with your own hands is easy and simple. They are used mainly when making holes in MDF or chipboard plates.
2. Swivel ones, which are equipped with folding brackets, and allow drilling on two planes adjacent to each other with one go.
3. Jigs for drilling holes at an angle. A highly specialized version of the jig, which is designed to make holes at different angles. Often combined with the overhead execution of the equipment in question.
4. Sliding, with the help of which it is possible, without changing the settings, to make several holes (including in several rows). More necessary for professionals who often have to do this kind of work. Requires skills to be applied correctly.

With sufficient rigidity of the jig, it can also be used for drilling holes in products that do not have a flat plane, for example, in pipes. Then the fixing of the conductor is carried out using a clamp (this option is not suitable for furniture, due to the danger of surface deformation).

DIY jig for drilling holes

In principle, such equipment consists of the following parts:

1. Corner body element applied to the surface of products, which will subsequently be connected to each other with dowels, pins or confirmations.
2. Guide bushings where the drill goes.
3. Clamping / fixing devices, which are located at the end parts of the conductor.

For a conductor, which is supposed to be made by hand, it is important to design a device for the most common home master mount options. If you need a universal jig (for furniture makers), then it is better to spend money on an industrial version of the tooling, which is characterized by increased accuracy of fixing parts, and has a higher quality performance. Moreover, manufacturers often offer templates, stops and other useful little things in a set for a conductor. The price of a furniture conductor of industrial production is from 500 to 1200 rubles, which is determined by its functionality- length and number of pilot holes.

We will start designing a furniture jig for drilling holes by choosing a corner. More possibilities for a product, where the corner will be unequal, and with the maximum possible shelf thickness. According to the range of GOST 8510 "Unequal steel corners", the corner L63 × 40 × 8 has the minimum permissible dimensions: with a shelf thickness of 8 mm, a guide sleeve with an outer diameter of up to 6 mm can be placed there. The inner hole for the drill, therefore, can be no more than 3.5 ... 4 mm, but this is quite enough for most of the holes obtained. In extreme cases, they can be drilled out without using the device, especially if the hole is deep enough.

The next step is the design of the guide sleeve. It can be picked up from any stainless pipe GOST 9941 (seamless) or GOST 9940 (all-welded). It is recommended to first select the pipe according to the diameter of the inner hole. A 6 × 1 pipe will make it possible to obtain an internal hole for a drill with a diameter of up to 3.6 ... 3.7 mm, and a 6 × 1.5 pipe - for a drill up to 2.7 mm (a double-sided gap is taken taking into account the thermal expansion of the material). The length of the sleeve must be at least twice the height of the hole made in the corner. Each bushing must be fitted with an interference fit or transition fit into the hole. The most expedient fit is along the shaft system, when the already known outer diameter of the sleeve is taken as the basis, and a hole is drilled under it in the corner. It is better to use a light interference fit such as h9 / P10.

It happens that the jig needs to be calculated for drilling a deep hole. In such cases, the bushing must be stepped (with a shoulder). Bushings for machine tools according to GOST 12214 possess the required accuracy and dimensions, the inner hole in which has a constant diameter value along the entire height of the bushing.

The number of holes, and especially the distance between them, is chosen for the specific needs of the user.

When choosing the method of fixing the conductor, choose one of the following options:

• Spring stop, which will press the surface of the conductor to the part due to the elastic forces of the material. Any flat spring with the required clamping force is suitable as such a stop;
• Fixation with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the material of the part, and keep the jig from displacement by friction forces. This option is convenient in that the resulting outline can then be used as additional elements for centering the future hole. In the case of chipboard, this option should be used with caution;
• External clamps, under which it is worth placing corrugated rubber gaskets. In this case, the weight of the jig will increase, and the elasticity of the rubber can break the perpendicularity of the axis of the jig bushings. Therefore, using this method of fastening, first, the drill is inserted into the bushing, the hole is marked, and only after that the clamp is used with clamps.

Conductor for drilling for dowels and confirmations

The sequence and design of the simplest devices for accurately making holes is considered in the following two examples:

1. Multi-position jig with clamp fastening (see Fig. 1). The original body part here is adopted a thick-walled aluminum corner... Due to the considerable length of the device, an intermediate fastening is provided in the middle. When the jig is rotated at an angle of 90º, the increased wall thickness of the angle is successfully used, which is superimposed on the surface of the part. The distance between the guide bushings is selected according to the most common distances for dowels or for confirmation.

Figure 1 - Multi-position jig for drilling holes with clamp fastening

1. Two-slide furniture jig, with which you can make holes in two mutually mating parts. The design of the fixture is clear from the attached drawing (see Fig. 2). It consists of two guide rulers, which are connected with fasteners to the connecting strip. The presence of several holes on it allows you to install the bar on parts of different widths. Replaceable bodies with a set of guide bushings with different distances between them move along the rulers. The conductor is fixed using a connecting strip, and on the opposite side - by a travel stop, which is tightened with a thumbscrew.

Figure 2 - Multi-slide furniture jig: 1 - Guide ruler; 2 - an adjusting screw; 3 - Housing; 4 - Thrust bar; 5- Travel limiter.