Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner should start with choosing a place for installation. In fact, everything is not easy. It is necessary to consider:

So you have to solve a complex problem, trying to satisfy all the requirements and recommendations. Only in this case, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands will be successful.

Let's start with the simplest: choosing a location for ease of use. The indoor unit should be placed so that the cooled air spreads throughout the room, but does not directly hit the bed, desk, chair. In principle, it is possible to redirect the flow using movable blinds, but it is much better to think about it first.

The most correct solution in this case is to place the air conditioner above the head of the bed, above or to the side of the table. In this case, the flow of cold air will "flow" around the place of rest or work, which is much more comfortable and less hazardous to health.

In addition, there are technical issues that must be foreseen before starting the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands. The indoor unit is connected to the outdoor unit using a copper pipe route and a control cable. The track connections are on the right (when looking at the unit from the front), but they can be bent so that they are on the left or below. These outlets are 30 cm long copper tubes.

Outputs from the outdoor unit of the split system (rear view)

The track is connected to them (by soldering or flaring), and the connection point must be accessible for maintenance. Therefore, this section of the route is not hidden in the wall (in the gate), but covered with a decorative box. In this case, the track can be positioned in different ways - depending on which wall the indoor unit was hung on and where in relation to it is located outdoor unit.

Block to the left of the outer wall

If the indoor block is located to the left of the outer wall, and the route goes straight, the minimum distance from the wall to the block is 500 mm (1 picture in the photo). It can be reduced to 100 mm if the track is wrapped on an adjacent wall, but its total length should not be less than 500 mm. If this is not possible, you can remove the bends on the left and lay the pipes in the groove (figure on the right). In this case, this is possible, since the junction of the leads and the route is obtained under the housing cover, so that it is accessible for repair and maintenance.

If cables, pipes, etc. cannot be pulled along the outer walls of the building. (so as not to spoil appearance), you will have to lay the entire route indoors. A less expensive option is to hold it in the corner, covering it with special boxes. This arrangement is convenient, since you can then close the box with curtains.

The second option is more labor-intensive (it is more difficult for the strobe to be made), but from the aesthetic point of view it is more advantageous - this is to transfer the output to the left side panel and put everything in the made recess.

On the wall to the right of the outside

This option can be called typical - it is a standard solution when choosing such a location. most often the route in the box is led directly into the wall, but if necessary, it can be lowered in the corner (also closed with the box).

If necessary, you can put it in the groove (the connection point is in the body). If the route cannot be drawn outside the building, it can be laid in a gutter indoors. The track may look like the last two photos in the previous chapter.

Where to identify the outdoor unit

In fact, it is not an easy task to choose a place for an outdoor unit. Not all buildings are allowed to be placed on the walls. In this case, there are only two outputs: install the outdoor unit of the split system in a specially designated place - air conditioning. If there is no such room, only a balcony or loggia remains. In such buildings, they are usually glazed, therefore, the placement of the block does not affect the appearance.

But in this case, it is necessary to provide for a system for cooling the equipment and removing exhaust air. If the balcony is spacious enough, for the entire time of its operation, windows are opened for airing or providing access fresh air in any other way. The solution is simple and straightforward, but it leads to overheating of the equipment, and this is fraught with breakdowns and frequent replacement of the damaged outdoor unit.

Balcony mounting is sometimes the only way out

Installing fans for more active air exchange can correct the situation a little. It is correct to fence off a small room, to make effective ventilation in it, separate ventilation ducts for evacuation and air supply. Moreover, they must be separate. This is done using air ducts that lead out instead of part of the glazing. In general, in this case, installing an air conditioner with your own hands - problematic task precisely in terms of ensuring the normal operating conditions of the equipment.

On the balcony or loggia

If there are no prohibitions on placing foreign devices on the walls of the building, usually the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is hung on the balcony railing (side or frontal) or on the wall, but so that it can be reached for maintenance - wash, clean, check, repair.

If the balcony is glazed, there should be an opening sash above it. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to service it. To protect against precipitation and objects that may fall out of the window, a visor is placed over the block. The choice of materials is something similar to a balcony trim or a white plastic visor, but only corpulent. It is better not to use hollow and metal (including corrugated board and metal roofing), since during rain they turn into a drum, and during hail they can generally deafen.

If the block is placed on a loggia, of all the above options, only the one in the picture on the right remains. It is inconvenient to place it next to the wall, except under the window, but this already refers to another section.

Another point: how to route the track - on the ceiling or on the floor? You will have to gouge in both cases, but in the case of the floor, you may be making it from boards, then the pipes and cables connecting the outdoor and indoor units can be laid over the surface, but better - in a box.

Under or next to a window

In those rooms where there is no balcony or loggia, the outer part of the split system is hung on the outside wall. It is more convenient if it is located under the window or to the side of it. Moreover, under or next to the opening part. In this case, service is possible without calling a climber.

When installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner with your own hands on the wall next to the window, consider the height of its installation. You can position the top surface of the block flush with the top edge of the window. In this case, leaning out of the window and insured, it will be possible to carry out work standing on the windowsill. The second option is to align the lower edge with the lower edge of the window opening. Here you can lie with your stomach on the windowsill, but you will not be able to reach the outlet of the pipes. That is, you still have to call industrial climbers.

What is required to install an air conditioner with your own hands

Those who install and connect the split systems professionally take about three hours to work on average. The cost of this service is considerable, and it is explained by the need to use expensive equipment. Good devices really cost a lot, but many of them can be replaced with simpler ones or rented. The only thing that will be difficult to find is a vacuum pump. This is really expensive specialized equipment, but there is technology to do without it. This is exactly what some installers do, who simply do not have such equipment - they simply bleed off some of the freon, cleaning the pipes. This method can be used for self-installation split systems.

Necessary equipment and what can be used to replace it

What is necessary for a successful DIY installation of an air conditioner? First of all, you will need a certain set of tools. With their help, things will go faster. But if there is no special toolkit, it can be replaced with simpler devices. It will take longer to work with them, but if you try, this will not affect the quality. So, what is needed to install a split system:

• Powerful rotary hammer. V outside wall houses or buildings, it is necessary to make a through hole through which copper pipes and cables connecting the indoor and outdoor units are led out. Also, through this hole, a drainage tube is brought out to drain condensate and excess moisture when the humidity is normalized. A hammer drill is not such a rarity, the only thing that can cause difficulties is the selection of the right nozzles. But this is already a matter of technology.
• A pipe cutter with a sharp blade. Split system blocks are interconnected with copper pipes. They are sold in bays, so you have to cut them into pieces of the required length. If the pipe cutter blade is dull, the pipe edges will wrinkle or be jagged or jagged. This will have to be corrected with a file and a rimmer (special deburring device). The pipe cutter can be replaced with a hacksaw with a metal blade, and the edges can be aligned and deburred with a file (file), finally processing the edge to smoothness with sandpaper. Only when working, make sure that the hole to be machined is directed downward. This will prevent copper dust from getting inside the pipe (it can damage the inside of the air conditioner, so this is very important).
• Pipe bender or spring. To give the copper pipes the desired shape.
• Drill with drills different diameters... It is needed in order to make holes for the mounting plate of the indoor unit and corners for installing the outdoor one.
• Flare tool and calibrator for copper pipes. This device, of course, is specific, but it costs little.
• Wall chaser. When laying a route in a groove (groove in the wall), this device significantly speeds up and simplifies the work. But you can get by with a regular chisel and a hammer / sledgehammer.

Well, as they said before, a vacuum pump is needed for a high-quality start of the system. There is nothing to replace it with, the only possibility is to release part of the freon on routes up to 6 meters long ("zilch" method).

In addition, you will need screwdrivers, hex keys, a level, a hammer, perhaps some other tools, but they are usually in the household or they are not difficult to find.

Materials and consumables

In addition to the tools for installing the air conditioner with your own hands, you will need a certain amount of materials. Many of them are indispensable.

As you can see, installing an air conditioner with your own hands requires serious preparation. You need not only a special tool, but also specific materials.

Installation of blocks

If you want to do everything right, do-it-yourself air conditioner installation should begin with a careful study of the instructions. Most of them are similar, but allowances, requirements for cable cross-section, route length, etc. may differ. Another plus from reading the manual is that you will definitely imagine in what order to perform the work. In general, here's what to do:

This completes the first stage of self-assembly of the air conditioner. Then we will lay the route.

Connecting blocks

The outdoor and indoor units of the split system are connected by two copper pipes and a cable. A drainage tube is also led out. All these communications can be laid on top of the wall, and then they fit into a special box. The second option is in the groove and then you need to make a groove that will connect the two blocks. But first of all, you need to drill a hole in the wall. This is done after the block fasteners have been installed. And only after that do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner continues.

When stacked in a plastic box, all communications are tied into one bundle. This can be done with screeds, but more often they are wound with metallized tape - in order to further reduce the transfer of heat from copper pipes.

Connecting copper pipes

We have already connected the cable earlier, and the installation of the air conditioner with our own hands is being completed by connecting copper pipes, drainage. Drainage is easier. There is an outlet at the bottom of the indoor unit, so we insert a hose or pipe there. The junction can be additionally sealed using plumbing fum tape. You can also use a silicone sealant for sealing.

Next, we connect copper tubes... We start at the indoor unit. On the side wall there are two ports - one with larger diameter fittings, the other with smaller ones. Which one to start with is not important. The procedure is as follows:

Actually, everything is already connected, but you still need to vacuum or simply remove moisture and air from the working parts of the air conditioner.

Evacuation

Why carry out this procedure? During installation, air has entered the system, and argon residues are also contained there. This mixture must be removed, otherwise it will significantly reduce the working life of the equipment. Naturally, it is better if you have special equipment. But, in extreme cases, you can do without it.

With a vacuum pump

If there is a vacuum pump, everything is somewhat simpler. Two pressure gauges (low and high pressure) usually come with it; they can be used to track the pressure drop in the system, that is, to identify leaks. The vacuum pump is connected to the outlet on the external block with a spool (filling port), it turns on for 15-20 minutes. During this time, it removes the remaining air and nitrogen from the system.

After this time, the pump is turned off, but not disconnected, but left connected for another 20-30 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of the manometers. If they have changed, there is a leak in the system. Most likely - this is the place where the copper pipes are connected and they need to be repaired. If the readings of the manometers are stable, without turning off the pump, open the valve at the bottom completely. Freon begins to come out of the block, filling the system (noise is heard). We put on gloves and quickly unscrew the hose vacuum pump(freon can damage the skin). After disconnecting the equipment, open the valve on the track at the top (outlets with a smaller diameter). Now the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is over. You can turn it on.

Without vacuum pump

If the length of the route is up to 5 meters, the installation of the air conditioner can be carried out without a vacuum pump. To clean the equipment, you will have to release a certain amount of freon, but there is no other way. The procedure is as follows:

And in this case, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed and the equipment is ready for work. But in this case, the tightness of the system has not been verified by anything and the freon can slowly evaporate, and there is still some air and argon left in the system. In general, the solution is not perfect.

Unlike mobile air coolers, consisting of a single unit, domestic split systems require additional financial costs for installation. Reducing costs is quite realistic: explore detailed manual how to install a new air conditioner in an apartment and do it yourself.

Preparatory stage

Split systems are most often used for air conditioning of private houses and apartments, as they are reliable, convenient and compact. The air conditioning unit consists of two units - internal and external, connected by two freon tubes, an electric cable and a drainage line.

Warning. When buying a new air conditioner, keep in mind important nuance: all freon has been pumped into the outdoor unit and the indoor unit is empty. Do not open the valves on the side of the machine until you have connected the piping.

Installation of "splits" is much more difficult than installing floor and window air conditioners. Here, 2 separate blocks must be correctly placed outside and inside the room, laid and tightly connected to the lines. The issue of connecting to the mains is easier to solve - a line is laid to the installed indoor module, protected by a circuit breaker.

What you need to do before proceeding with self-installation:

1. Buy additional materials.
2. Prepare special tools and fixtures.
3. Determine the location of both units and the route for laying highways with freon.

The arrangement of the blocks of the split system is subject to certain rules... The flow of cooled air from the indoor unit should not directly blow people around, and the maximum distance from the outdoor unit should not exceed 5 m. Most often, the unit is placed on a side partition next to a window and outside wall... Technological indents from walls and ceilings are shown in the diagram.

Now a few tips on where to install the outdoor unit:

Note. Inverter air conditioners are quieter than usual air conditioners, but the noise of the fan is still audible at night.

List of tools and materials

The following installation materials are not included in the delivery set of the split system; you will need to purchase them yourself:

• metal bracket for the suspension of the outdoor module (you can weld it yourself from steel equal angles 35 x 3 mm);
• four-core copper cable VVG type with a cross section of 1.5 or 2.5 mm², depending on the power of the cooler;
• copper pipes of freon lines with a diameter of 6.35 mm and 9.52 mm of the required length;
• rubber heat-insulating sleeve, type K-Flex, along the length of the line;
• drainage corrugated pipe (metal-plastic Ø16 mm is also suitable);
• wrapping tape PVA or PVC;
• polyurethane foam - 1 cylinder.

Note. Depending on the conditions for laying inter-unit highways, a plastic cable channel or a dry one may be required. building mixture for filling the furrow.

In addition to a home set of locksmith tools, the installation of an air conditioner requires the use of special tools and equipment:

• hammer drill with a long drill or crown drill for concrete;
• vacuum pump;
• manifold with pressure gauges and hoses;
• a device for manual flaring of copper pipes and scissors that do not form metal shavings.

Often on the Internet there are instructions on how to install and start a split system without a vacuum pump, where air from the pipelines and the evaporative heat exchanger is pushed out by the freon pressure. We strongly advise against following such recommendations and strictly following the technology of evacuating the system before filling. Otherwise, the compressor may fail much earlier than expected.

Advice. There is a way to save money on buying or renting a rolling tool and speed up the assembly of freon lines. Ready-made installation kits are available for sale, including factory-flared tubes, insulation and cable with drain hose. The price depends on the length of the bundle (3, 5 or 7 m).

Air conditioner installation instructions

It is assumed that you have already purchased a split-system with the required cooling capacity, you know exactly the dimensions of the devices and have allocated space for them. Installation work is carried out in several stages:

1. Marking the route for laying interblock communications, supplying electricity and sawing a furrow in the wall (if necessary).
2. Fixing the indoor unit, routing pipes through the wall and connecting.
3. Installation of an external module, connection of communications.
4. Refrigerant charge and start-up.

Depending on the working conditions, the main harness is laid in two ways: openly in the PVC cable channel or hidden inside the wall. Use the first option in a residential apartment, the second - in the process of renovating the premises.

Reference. Ninety percent of manufacturers of split systems provide for the output of communications from the left end of the indoor unit. When suspended to the left of the window and hidden piping, the groove in the wall will have to be cut with a turn, as shown in the photo.

The first stage of work is carried out as follows:

An experienced master will tell you in his video how to make the right furrows and prepare for the installation of the air conditioner:

Indoor unit installation

Before proceeding, remove the machine from the box and read the supplied technical documentation, where the manufacturer makes its own requirements for the installation of the product and provides a diagram. Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner according to the step-by-step instructions:

Advice. In order not to peel off the winding tape of the bundle, it is better to insert a plastic sleeve into the technological hole. Alternatively, make it from a plastic bottle.

After hanging the indoor unit, straighten the cable harness and lay it inside the furrow. At open way immediately install the cable-channel and hide the pipelines there. How to accurately connect the trunks, see the video:

Installing the outdoor unit

Mounting the unit on the balcony will not pose any particular difficulties. When installing under a window, secure yourself with insurance and invite an assistant to support you while screwing the bracket and the outdoor unit. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Advice. In order not to crawl out of the window waist-deep, tightening the nuts under the bracket, buy special plastic clips or make them yourself. The bolt is inserted into the corner, a lock in the form of a washer is put on the thread and does not allow it to fall out. At the end, the module fastening nuts are screwed on with a long socket wrench, as is done in the video.

Start-up instructions

At this stage, it is important to remove air and water vapor from the freon circuit using the vacuum method. The lines are then filled with refrigerant pumped into the outdoor unit at the factory. The following technology is used to refuel a new air conditioner:

After successful filling of the lines and the indoor module, turn on the split system for cooling, then test it in different operating modes. Make sure condensation is flowing from the drain and not along the wall under the indoor unit. Do not forget to close the ends of the service ports with standard plugs and put the cover on.

Conclusion

The success of an event is highly dependent on the quality of execution installation works... If you are negligent when installing the air conditioner, then best case you will lose freon, and with it the money saved on calling the masters will fly into the atmosphere. In the worst case, the compressor will "grab" steam or dirt that has got into the pipeline and will fail literally in a year. So take your time and pay close attention to all connections.

Design engineer with over 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dahl with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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do-it-yourself air conditioner installation Climatic equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, the air conditioner is installed by hand. The main condition is to strictly adhere to the instructions, to carry out work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climatic device.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner, split system

To form general view about the organization internal device, and before installing the air conditioner, we recommend that you consider the principle of the system. The climatic unit consists of 2 equivalent units - compressor and evaporative. They are connected to each other with special adapters, pipes and pipes.

The evaporating unit is installed inside the dwelling, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and multiple indoor units.

High pressure refrigerant is directed to the evaporator section. Then the freon expands, its gradual boiling and vaporization. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the warmth of the air. The climatic unit works with the active formation of water condensate, which is deposited on a special radiator. At the final stage, water is removed from the building through a special pipe.

In the process of operation, the compressor is pumped out vapors of freon. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant turns from a liquid state into a vapor state. A dense "fog" is directed into the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (for this purpose a small fan is used) and transition to a liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process loops.

The efficiency and duration of the functioning of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the device, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit, the climatic features of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climatic device, the level of consumed electricity increases, which is fraught with the failure of the device. Even ordinary dust can provoke a breakdown. Regular wet cleaning is prescribed for the room.

Couplings and joints require sealing without fail in order to neutralize the likelihood of evaporation of freon or other refrigerant. The installation of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is carried out in such a way that the level is lower than the internal part of the unit. The outer node is located in a dark place, away from sunlight.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: tools - complete list

Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically difficult, responsible, and therefore expensive undertaking. In this matter, all aspects are important - experience, practical skills, theoretical base and availability the necessary tool... These factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let us analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.

Taking into account the field of application, they are divided into several functional groups.

Power tool

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands is simply impossible without a power tool. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:

• puncher;
• "Bulgarian";
• drill.

The puncher is chosen powerful so that it can easily make a through hole in the wall through which a line is laid between the indoor and outdoor units. Low-power combined electric drills, where only the function of a perforator is provided, is indispensable in this case. They are unable to drill through the brickwork.

Before you install the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.

For concrete wall In addition, you will need a grinder to remove metal reinforcement, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.

Measuring tool

Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with mandatory control of the horizontal level. You can use markers, marking pencils, construction or laser level... A number of additional equipment will also be required. Air conditioners with installation cannot be securely and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.

Specialized equipment

Specialized tools are necessary for high-quality and efficient operation of climate control equipment. Brazing tools for copper pipes, industrial type vacuum cleaner and vacuum pump.

1. Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. It is carried out using special solder and gas burner... A pipe cutter is used to trim them. It is better to refuse a conventional hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which is fraught with breakdown of the climatic device. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer, rolling. Trunk turns are formed with a pipe bender.
2. An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. They must under no circumstances get inside the device.
3. Vacuum pump. The unit dries up the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure- mandatory, without it the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.

The listed equipment for installation is basic. You cannot do without additional Supplies- pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal scissors, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: step-by-step instructions

Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner begins only after the acquisition and preparation necessary equipment, tools and climatic equipment. First of all, the outdoor unit is fixed on the outer wall, after which the internal work is carried out.

At all stages, it is extremely important to observe safety precautions, especially when it comes to high-rise buildings. Installation of an outdoor unit is one of the most important and crucial stages.

Fixing the outdoor unit

Installation of the window as a whole, and its outer part, in particular, on the walls country houses not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of apartment buildings not everything is so simple, the place is chosen with great care. When deciding where to install the air conditioner, look for areas with minimal natural light.

There are some basic rules:

1. The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window to the neighbors in the apartment.
2. A small pipe is used to drain the condensate.
3. The climatic device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because equipment requires periodic maintenance.

In 90% of cases, the block is fixed at the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are the unspoken rules for installing an air conditioner, which are mandatory among professionals. If they are observed, it will not be difficult to reach the outer part of the climatic device.

• The attachment points of the brackets are checked with a building level, and then holes are prepared in the wall. Anchor bolts are used for reliable fixation.
• An 80 mm through hole is made to connect the functional units. If possible, it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.

According to the previously prepared markings, metal brackets are installed, screwing in the bolts as reliably as possible. Standard installation the air conditioner is carried out in such a way that a distance of 10 cm is maintained between the climatic unit and the outer wall. The gaps are closed at the final stage, after connecting the device.

Indoor unit installation

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation indoors, where to start? First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to fasten the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, over heaters or batteries - all these devices often cause the block processor to fail.

Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for heating, water pipes, electrical wiring.

Fastening a metal plate from standard accessories for installing air conditioners begins only if the area for work is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is at least 10 cm, from the corner of the walls - at least 5 cm.Connect two points with a meter and mark a horizontal line. The indoor unit is installed on a fixed metal plate.

The next stage in the installation of the air conditioner, or more precisely, its indoor unit, is the preparation of holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, pipes for draining liquid condensate. Interior space should be enough for free placement of all elements in the wall.

Self-installation of the air conditioner is impossible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this, wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm. A separate automatic device for the climatic device must be connected. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the shield (the indicator can accurately determine the "phase" and "neutral" wire).

The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are interconnected by stranded wiring (it is pushed into the hole prepared in the wall). The installation diagram is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climatic device. When self-installing air conditioners at home, it is extremely important that the terminals match the names of the wires themselves. V otherwise there is a danger of a short circuit.

Pipe laying instructions

The standard kit for installing the air conditioner includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a 1 meter margin for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender, when using it, the metal does not crack, no dents form. Proper preparation also includes covering the pipes with polyurethane foam hoses, which act as thermal insulation.

Special threaded flanges are put on the ends of the tube. The next stage of installation work is high-quality flaring of copper pipes. This process is performed very carefully in order to eliminate the risk of grooves and microcracks. The nut should be put on the rolling without any problems. As for the tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.

Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because copper pipes have different sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed on the fittings, while the connection should be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.

At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems is reduced to connecting a plastic pipe to the reinforced casing. For reliable fastening use the shrink tubing supplied. It is better to install the drainage pipe at the maximum distance from the base of the wall.

Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are neatly and very precisely aligned. Outside, branch and underwater pipes are fixed with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them to connect to the outdoor unit.

In the room, the holes are blown out with polyurethane foam, as an alternative - they are filled liquid silicone... Installing an air conditioner on the balcony and in the house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soapy solution or a bicycle pump. Soap solution wash with a sponge or cloth. If defects are found, the threads are tightened tighter.

Vacuuming the air exchange system

The correct installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner must know that to remove moisture, dust and the smallest particles from the climatic device, the system is evacuated. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing connections, because it is impossible to completely get rid of the air. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, air evacuation takes about 1 hour.

Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The reservoir on the balcony is filled with a connected pressure gauge or adapter, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector switches on independently, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and effective air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with foam, followed by decoration.

Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because these are expensive climatic complexes for the adjustment of which specialized equipment is required. Spare parts are included as standard, so you don't have to buy anything.

Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what sequence to carry out the corresponding work.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: the secrets of professionals

The installation diagram of window air conditioners provides for the possibility of installation in winter period... You just have to be content with not too comfortable conditions. Water or snow must not get into the pipeline. It is better to install and pump refrigerant at a positive temperature outside the window (at subzero temperatures, the gland often fails, since it is rubber).

To install air conditioners, it is not at all necessary to evacuate the system. The nut is not screwed to the copper tube completely, then the control valve located at the thick tube is slightly opened. Under pressure, the air will be displaced by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.

This method incorrect, since the quality and sealing of the system cannot be verified. Installation of industrial air conditioners using this technology is not carried out.

Below is the detailed video instructions, which demonstrate the main stages of the installation of climate systems with your own hands.

By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and study. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and moisture in the simplest way. Agree in summer period there are many days that need to be regulated by climatic parameters.

After reading the article proposed by us, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the work on the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful both for independent home craftsmen and for customers of installers' services to check the correct performance.

We have a detailed description of the installation process, the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks are listed. The materials required for the installation and connection of the units are listed. Photo and video applications are valuable additions to the text, making information easier to read.

Studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold / hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the manufacturer of the equipment in the instructions.

The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of the split system are above the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually taken out into the street and installed on an area near a window or on balcony slabs

There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a point for placing blocks:

• the distance between the unit and the ceiling must be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
• from the side to the wall - not less than 30 cm;
• to an obstacle that will impede the flow of outgoing air or dissipate it - at least 150 cm.

For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen based on carrying capacity walls. Installation is possible near the window, on the slabs enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.

For those who live on the lower floors, the installation of the block is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.

Based on the technical requirements for the wall of the ventilation facade, used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system, the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times more mass installation unit

For a multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is on the top floor, you will need to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point as close as possible to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.

Determining the distance between blocks

Often the choice of the location of the equipment is governed by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on lineup and characteristics.

Sometimes firms do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so the installation can be performed arbitrarily.

The minimum distance between the blocks of the Daikin split system is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic is up to 3 m.However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route must be at least 5 m (its surplus is folded into a ring and hidden behind the block)

It is a little easier to deal with the maximum possible distance between the two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. An increase in the length of the route is also possible, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel with freon.

Preparation for work

The decision to start installing a split system independently comes, as a rule, after clarifying the prices from specialists. The incredibly high sums for the execution of work, which takes 3 hours, are justified by the presence of expensive tools and their wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the payment for the services of the master.

If the prices from the installers of split systems are too high, it is worth doing the installation with your own hands, having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work

If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, then often the instructions indicate that preparatory work can be done on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connecting to electrical network When carrying out the vacuuming process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.

Hardware Installation Tools

It is possible to carry out an independent installation of the cooling unit, because most of the tools are in the suitcase home master... An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.

Some teams of foremen do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.

If during the self-installation of the air conditioner it was not possible to find a vacuum pump, an alternative option could be a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower

During installation important aspect is the observance of the horizontal arrangement of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check at the building level.

If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.

It will be necessary to prepare the following equipment in advance:

1. Perforator. It is used to make holes in the facade, through which the route will be laid, generalizing the external and internal blocks.
2. Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
3. Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
4. A device for deburring after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, file and sandpaper.
5. Copper pipe beater.

Some people think that using a reamer does not make sense, especially if a new one does not leave burrs or dents, but in vain.

Only after the performed manipulations with the beveller, the edge of the flared tube can be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and, accordingly, the leakage of freon is unlikely.

The work of the device for expanding copper pipes is performed by deforming the tube according to the selected template, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and circular cross-section are preserved.

According to the technical installation rules, a vacuum pump is required - the air conditioning system is sealed with this particular equipment. After filling the track with refrigerant, the evacuation process is carried out.

Acquisition of the necessary materials

A lot of components will be required, but all of them are readily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials should be of the highest quality and be selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at the cold.

It is necessary to purchase a wire for supplying power and connecting the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or in the equipment installation instructions.

As standard, this is a four-core power cable with a cross-sectional area of ​​2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.

You will also need to prepare seamless thick-walled soft copper pipes for cooling appliances. Pipes are selected with smaller and larger diameters. More specific specifications are indicated in the user manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of the tubes, their edges must be muffled to protect them from dust settling inside the product.

Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy lends itself well to expanding and ensures proper tightness

For pipe insulation, foam rubber insulation is used. It is sold in segments of 2 m. To carry out thermal insulation measures, a length equal to the length of the route is required. Synthetic insulation applies to two pipe diameters.

As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative piece - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with an allowance of 80 cm.

You will also need two L-type brackets to secure the unit from the outside. The suitable size of the parts is determined by its dimensions, and the safety factor for the bearing load must exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum allowable stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.

It is better to buy these components in a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.

After purchasing the bracket for attaching the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, you cannot make additional holes in it, because this significantly reduces the safety factor of the part

The following are used as fastening parts: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and a mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.

The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted also matters. To camouflage the laid line of communications, you will need a plastic box standard dimensions 60 * 80 cm.

Split system installation procedure

It is quite a real task to independently install the air conditioning system, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you first need to read the instructions for the purchased equipment model.

Stage # 1 - installation of outdoor and indoor units

The first to be installed is the indoor unit. Having decided on its location, the site is marked on the wall for the mounting card. After drilling out the backlashes, plastic plugs for the dowels are inserted, the card is hung and fixed with dowels.

The most careful fastening should be done at the bottom of the plate, because in this area there are latches that hold the block

After installing the cassette, using the building level, the exposure of the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, it will be necessary to redo all the work performed.

At this stage, preparatory work for laying the tracks is ahead. First, the lines of its location are calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.

Also, a hole with a diameter of 5 cm is drilled with a slope, while the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the track. Thus, the condensate formed will better leave the system.

When choosing a back-to-back mounting scheme for the blocks, it is required to check the hole intended for placing the power cable. To do this, check the location of the power ports on the units.

And now it's the turn of the outdoor unit installation. When it comes to multi-storey building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.

As in the first case, the block must be strictly horizontal, therefore, at the markup stage, a level is also used.

When placing the outdoor unit, take into account the limitation regarding its slope - the maximum allowable slope angle is 45 °

At the time of installation of the fasteners, each existing hole must be filled with anchor bolts (standard diameter 10 * 100 mm), regardless of their number. After that, the outdoor unit is exposed and is also fixed with fasteners.

Stage # 2 - laying a communication line

Using an electric wire and two copper pipes, the outdoor and indoor units are connected. Additionally, a drainage system will be laid through the wall, which is responsible for the removal of condensate. These elements must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.

First, prepare the copper tubes by cutting to the desired length with a pipe cutter and reamer the edges from burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.

It is not recommended to use other tools such as a file. After its application, the inside of the tube gets metal shavings, which will circulate through the system and ultimately lead to compressor failure.

To pass copper pipes through the wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect against dust

Thermal insulation of pipes is carried out by putting on them polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber cannot be chosen as a seal - it has a short operational life. After completing the thermal insulation measures, all joining areas of the material are tightly glued with metallized tape.

Now it was the turn to lay the drainage and the cable. For each wire you need to put on a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with pliers.

The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.

On both blocks, in the area slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate for connecting copper pipes. Under it are the electrical connectors for the cable.

The drainage tube is connected to a special outlet on the unit inside the room and out through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.

According to the rules, it is laid at an angle towards the outside. Fixing with clamps every meter of length is required to eliminate sagging, to prevent the accumulation of condensation.

Stage # 3 - connecting system blocks

Communications through the wall are connected to the appropriate ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop method to trap oil, which is contained in a small amount of freon.

Drainage can be diverted in two ways: take it to the sewer or to the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of reproduction, it has not become widespread.

When laying the drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns, and sagging is also not allowed - condensation will accumulate in these areas

At the bottom of the indoor unit of the system there is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the junction with a clamp.

A similar procedure is followed for the outside of the device, but many people ignore it. If instead of a hose you use polymer pipe, the appropriate adapter is selected. With its help, the output of the block and the tube are connected.

To connect copper pipes, you must initially lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment... Read more.

The pipes must be given the necessary slope without kinks and sharp creases. First of all, they are connected to the unit indoors. For this, the nuts are loosened at the corresponding ports.

When untwisted, the characteristic hiss of nitrogen escaping will be heard. It is pumped in at the time of production to eliminate oxidation of parts. After lowering it, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut completely. Next, the rolling procedure is carried out.

During the flaring process, the pipe is held down with the hole to prevent metal chips from entering the system.

The edges of the pipes are leveled in a section of 5 cm. Then, flaring is carried out to ensure the connection of the inlet and outlet of the blocks. So it will turn out closed system circulation. The correctness of the installation plays an important role in obtaining the properties of maximum tightness during the movement of freon.

The flared end of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and secured with a nut. It is forbidden to use any additional devices - sealants, gaskets, etc. The copper pipes used provide the necessary sealing.

When connecting copper pipes, it is necessary to apply an effort of 60 kg, only then the copper will solidly crimp the fitting, and the contact will be hermetically sealed

Do the same for all four ports. After connecting, you should final stage air conditioning installation - elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during the installation process.

Stage # 4 - evacuation of the system

During installation work, air enters the air conditioner tubes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is an increased load on the compressor, respectively, its rapid heating.

Also, water particles have a negative effect on all parts. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective in contact with water. As a result, component wear will accelerate.

To remove air, two methods can be used: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid that comes down from the unit located outside. In the manufacture of the outdoor unit, manufacturers with a small surplus.

The "zilch" method is repeated several times, while the second attempt is made with the upper valve. If the length of the track is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter track - 2 times

An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess Freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, unscrew the plugs on its valves. It is necessary to work with the lower port with a larger diameter. There is a hex socket under its cover. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.

Using a suitable key, rotate the valve by 90 ° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and an increased pressure is created. With a second pressing of a finger on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.

After complete removal of air, the outlet of the spool is twisted with a plug, and the valves are fully opened and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the joints, they are coated with soapy foam.

It is worth remembering that with independent, insignificant factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without stripping the border, or an insufficiently fixed connection, as a result, leads to rapid wear of the components of the cooling system. Therefore, during the installation process, you need to be extremely careful with all the details.

If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the installation of split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some of the subtleties that we did not mention in this article? Leave your comments, ask questions in the block below.

Professional installation of the air conditioner is the key to its long service life. At first glance, this procedure does not look difficult - it is enough to connect the external and internal blocks of the split system. But is it? To analyze the complexity of installation, it is necessary to consider each of its stages.

Before starting the installation, a number of preparatory measures should be taken. They are divided into 2 groups - according to the parameters of the room and the provision of installation conditions. The main selection criteria: room area, availability supply ventilation, the number of people constantly or periodically staying in it.

After that, you can proceed to preparatory work in room. They are carried out during the renovation or before it:

1. Read the installation requirements in the operating instructions. This will form the basis for a correct installation.
2. The distance from the indoor unit to the ceiling must be at least 15 cm. This can ensure the safety and efficiency of the system. There should be no obstacles in front of the air flow - screens, interior partitions, etc.
3. Power supply to the air conditioner installation site. It is advisable to allocate a separate line with a machine gun in the general control panel.

This stage of work can be done independently. Further actions will require a fair amount of skill and practical experience. It is enough to admit the slightest inaccuracy, and even more so - a latent defect, and the operation of expensive HVAC equipment will be under threat.

In most cases, installation consists of the following steps:

For each of these steps, it is important to adhere to the installation technology.

Drilling a hole

If the hole in the wall is to be made just behind the indoor unit, you must first attach the mounting plate. An air conditioner case will be installed on it, so work should be done very carefully. First, the markings are made on the wall, the correct installation is measured using a level, and then the plate is installed.

A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drilled next to it, the work is best done indoors, but safety should be monitored. During work, part of the wall may collapse - one of the installers must stand on the street and control the process from there.

Installation of interblock routing

All elements of the inter-unit line must be connected to the indoor unit: copper tubes for freon, drainage system and electrical cable... For insurance, it is recommended to increase the estimated length of the track by 30 cm. This will make it possible to avoid possible errors during installation.

The most important is correct connection copper pipeline... It is fully straightened, nuts and flex are installed on the mounting ends. Then the tubes are rolled and attached to the indoor unit. It is very important to maintain the required effort.

If the tightening is not tight enough, freon will leak, and if clamped, the copper sheath may be damaged, which will also lead to a loss of tightness.

At this stage, special equipment for soldering and crimping is required. Price professional tool high - buying it for a one-time installation is unprofitable. If you use a lower quality, then there is a high probability of an incorrect pipeline connection.

Next, a drain hose is mounted, the place of its connection to the block is pasted over with Teflon tape. Then the electrical cable is connected. The resulting line needs thermal insulation; for this, the tubes are twisted using a special moisture-resistant adhesive tape, and a heat-insulating casing is installed.

Outdoor unit installation

Installation of an outdoor unit is one of the simplest stages of work. But for him, it is necessary to comply with the installation conditions. First of all, you need to choose an installation location. The boundary distances from blocks to walls are shown in the figure.

In addition, the safety of the device should be considered. In order to prevent theft, the outdoor unit is installed in a lattice case. To protect against external damage, a galvanized steel canopy must be installed. The fasteners must be able to support at least 4 times the weight of the entire structure.

The interblock route brought out through the hole is connected to the outdoor unit. The connection method for all lines is the same as for the indoor unit.

Filling with freon

One of the crucial stages in the installation of the air conditioner is the filling with freon. It is impossible to carry out this procedure without special equipment.

Freon R-22 brand freon or similar is often chosen. It is optimally suited for Russian operating conditions. The order of work is as follows:

This completes the installation. As can be seen from this overview description of the installation process, the installation of the air conditioner is laborious and requires a lot of practical knowledge from the installer. Therefore, it is not recommended to install the climate system on your own, since there are still many parameters that can directly affect its efficiency and duration of operation.