The service life of any knife directly depends on the methods of its operation and the sharpening procedure of the blade. Appliances for sharpening knives are so diverse that allow modern man Do not resort to the work of specialists, but to fulfill all the work yourself at home. To drain the knives, you can use both a special adaptation of industrial production and any device made own hands. It is important to know that simple items To pool the knives (for example, donel), which is at hand, they can serve unsubbate service and the acuity of the product will not only be back, but also gradually the product will completely come into disrepair. At the same time anyone homemade adaptation To sharpen knives, it can be based on the use of these simple sharpening devices. Detailed information on how to make a sharpening device with your own hands, can be found below.

A homemade manual machine for sharpening knives, provided that all requirements are fulfilled when it is created, it will simplify the sharpening of the knives and its execution will not be worse than professional. Proper accuracy includes the following rule: each type of cutting product is inherent in the defined heating angle of the edge, which must be unchanged along the entire length of the blade (see Table No. 1). The sharpening device, which will be originally based on this principle, will give the master to the acute edge of the knife for a long time.

Table # 1. sharpening angle in parallels with type of cutting device

Edge processing at sharpening should be evenly. To perform this condition, the following rules must be followed:

• the blade should be fixed in the tisces of the device reliably and efficiently, without exposing metal blades damage;
• moving the squeak along the axis of the knife edge must be uniform and strictly under a certain angle;
• the blades point of the blade must be strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the grinding device;
• pressing the knife blade should change smoothly depending on the change in the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the blade and sharpened.

Simple device for sharpening knives

The simplest device for pointed knives is based on the use of the corner frame and the appeal. The price of such a primitive factory-made device is high enough, as the price is high, the price and replaceable donkeys, while making such a device for swelling knives at home will not be the master or the slightest work. It will take the following inventory:

1. Wooden bars of the same size - 4 pcs.
2. Drill (or any other tool for drilling).
3. Bolts and nuts (approximately 4 pcs.).
4. Pill.
5. Protractor.

To start you need to make a couple wooden corners, Posing the bars to each other strictly at an angle of 90º (Fig. 1). The resulting wooden angles to close with each other in parallel as a whole and drill through the holes along the diameter of the bolts. Insert the bolts into the holes, and the corners slightly pull to each other with nuts.

The meaning of this invention is to sharpen just holding a knife vertically with respect to the grinding surface at a given angle.

The most important thing is to correctly fasten the rash between wooden corners fixtures. To do this, using the transporter, you need to set the desired angle of the table and tighten the bolts for a clear fixation of the TICK position.

With some refinement, the device can be fixed and the position of the knife is relative to the sharpening stone. A significant disadvantage of such a machine for manual sharpening is the impossibility of smooth adjustment of the angle of inclination of the grinding stone.

Device for sharpening from mounting corners

The scheme and drawings of the homemade sharpener for knives from the mounting corners based on the Lansky fixture are clearly shown below.

To build this device, you will need:

1. Metal corners 90 * 90 mm with a thickness of a wall of 6 mm.
2. Stud with thread M6 and 160 mm long.
3. Thin rod (electrode, needker, etc.).
4. Pill.
5. 2 rectangular pieces of metal (sponge for the clips of the table).
6. Pliers.
7. Metal hacksaw.
8. Fire (or any other tool for processing sharp angles).
9. Set of hardware (nuts and bolts).

In metal corners, you should perform holes and cut the threads in them according to the drawings. Then run the squeaks on sponges, which determined the fixation of the knife blade to prevent the appearance of interference with the movement of a grinding stone. Everything sharp corners And the edges of the future fixture for sharpening must be treated with a file.

In both metal sponges, designed to fix the appeal, you need to drill under the connecting bolt. Locking donel. A thin smooth needle, pre-bent at an angle of 90 º, it is necessary to insert and fix in the hole of one of the sponges. In the future, with the help of this retainer in the form of the knitting needles, a certain angle of inclination of the appeal will be set. A similar adaptation for the decrease of knives is characterized by an extensive coverage of sharpening angle, which is undoubtedly interested in most masters.

Machines with fixing blades

Machines for sharpening knives with fixing blades will attract the attention of those people who want to put the knife not only qualitatively, but also quickly. The design, a hard locking blade of a knife relative to the grinding stone at the pressed angle, allows you to accurately set the angle of inclination.

To create similar homemade machine do it yourself:

1. The base is a rectangular wooden plate with dimensions of 440 * 92 mm and a thickness of 18 mm.
2. Wooden cry 92 * 45 * 45 mm (for fixing the vertical threaded stud).
3. Wooden bar 245 * 92 mm and 18 mm thick (plate to which the knife will be attached).
4. Iron plate 200 * 65 mm and metal thickness 4 mm.
5. Piano loop, 92 mm long.
6. Stilette M8 325 mm long.
7. Nuts and bolts with M8 thread.
8. Drill 6.5 mm.
9. M8 tester.
10. Self-tapping screws 50 mm, 4 pcs.

A shoe intended for fixing the vertical threaded stiletto is to drill a 6.5 mm drill. The hole should be located at a distance of 15 mm from the edge of the dice, approximately in the center.

Next, in the resulting hole, you need to cut the thread under the pitch M8. A wooden cry prepared in this way must be screwed to the base at a distance of 265 mm from the edge using conventional tapping screws with a length of 50 mm, twisted on the reverse side of the base.

Determination of the place of attachment of the bar

After the bar and the base are reliably fastened, it will be necessary to insert the hairpin M8 into the hole in the bar. The hairpin must pass throughout the cross section of the bar and base; Thus, the risk of changing its position is minimized. Stud at the base of the bar need to hardly fix the M8 nut, slightly drowned it when twisting in the wood of the bar.

The second part of the work is concluded in collecting a clamping device for fixing the position of the knife. To do this, a piano loop from the end of a wooden plate is fastened to the Bruck from the tree 245 * 92 mm with three screws, with which it will be attached to the base of the device.

After fixing the wooden part of the retaining device, you can begin to attach the iron plate. In the value of the plate 200 * 65 mm, it is necessary to drill an oblong groove, a length of 90 mm and a width of about 1 cm. The groove should be located from the edge of the clamping plate at a distance of 60 mm. Additionally, you need to drill a hole at a distance of 20 mm from the opposite edge and cut into it with a thread under the M8 bolt. Then you need to attach with this bolt clamping plate on the previously prepared wooden base. With the help of another bolt and a suitable washer, you must fix the clamping plate in the center of the cut-off groove. The fixation should be clear, but at the same time neat so as not to damage the surface of the blade.

The most difficult part of the assembly of this device is to prepare an adjusting device, which will set the knife sharpening angle. To do this, you will need:

• metal square profile 40 × 40 mm;
• furniture bracket, 40 mm width;
• pair of ripples;
• plywood bar 42 × 25 and 18 mm thick;
• bolt and nut M5;
• a pair of nut bachers M8;
• donel;
• steel rod with a diameter of 0.8 cm and 40 cm long.

On Broza plywood need to drill a pair of holes: through a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in a cross section of 42 × 18 mm (the distance from the edge of 42 mm to set at 15 mm) and the through hole with a diameter of 5 mm on the side with a cross section of 42 × 25 mm (distance from edges 10 mm). Square truma It should be cut in half so that it turned out that "P"-shaped bracket with a width of 40 * 15 mm and 70 mm ears. In the ears you need to drill 8 millimeter holes, which will later be inserted with a pylon M8. Connect the resulting bracket with a furniture loop with ripples. To the resulting design, with the help of the second part furniture brake, attract the plywood bar bolt M5.

The donel is connected to the guide rod, which protrudes the steel rod with a cross section of 8 mm. When connecting the table and the guide rod, it is necessary to strictly ensure that their axial lines coincide. If desired, for ease of use of the sharpener, the handle holder can be adjusted to the donkey on the reverse side. It remains to fasten the rash in the guide mechanism, fix the lamb and the homemade adaptation for sharpening knives is ready.

Machines with fixed sharpening surfaces

Machines with fixed sharpening surfaces are a simple modification of equipment for processing household knife. In such a device, there is no possibility of adjusting the angle of sharpening, while you can install several different angles for sharpening in advance. different types knives. Work on sharpening blades with similar machines is not difficult, it is enough just to drive the blade on abrasive surfaces in the recess.

The device consists of a pair of inclined to each other at a certain angle of planes, one of which is a grinding stone.

Electric knife sharpening devices

The procedure for creating an electric sharpening machine is simple: enough to provide almost any device for sharpening knives and scissors with electric drive. A similar sharpening machine allows you to quickly and high qualityly, it provides a better concave shelf at the edge of the blade.

The mechanism of the powerovering for sweeping knives contains a guide, which is placed along the axis of rotation of the grinding bar, and with which the blade is adjusted at a given angle. The sharpening angle is set and set to the guide, and the clamping force is determined by the wizard.

Special attention is required to pay the sharpening rates, because The electric drive allows you to set the product at high speed, as a result of which the knife is heated. Such superficial heating leads to a vacation of tempered steel, as a result of which the knife can quickly lose its hardness and its service life will noticeably decrease. To prevent the release of steel, it is necessary to sharpen on the high-speed electricity to perform in short intervals and with sufficient interruptions that allow the knife to cool.

Making stones for sharpening

Modern master will not be difficult to make stones for sharpening with their own hands. To do this, you will need:

• wooden plate in the size of the future sharpened;
• epoxy resin;
• cardboard boxes in size bar;
• abrasive;
• protective rubber gloves.

As an abrasive, you can use the finished powder, or you can prepare abrasive own production, for example, from the old bar green color yet soviet production. Such a bar can be erased into powder and use it further as an abrasive.

A wooden cry is required to be treated on one side with emery paper and a saw to make frequent notches. Epoxy resin mix with abrasive crumb. Pre-locating a bar in a cardboard box glued to the size of a bar, cover the prepared surface wooden bar Shave epoxy resin and abrasive. After a complete curing resin, the bar is ready for use.

Another embodiment of stones for sharpening with their own hands is the creation of a grinding bar from small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of about 5 mm. With the help of double-sided adhesive tape on the surface of the glass plate pasted sandpaper. The grinding bar is ready to work.

Fixture for sharpening of wooden bars

Simple knife sharpening device is a tool consisting of a pair wooden Reques and pairs of bars with abrasive, with the same geometric dimensions.

Wooden rails should be thoroughly grinding abrasive skins. Then, after applying auxiliary markup, depending on the root of the knife sharpening, make the cuts to a depth of 15 mm. In the resulting holes insert elaborate bars in such a way that each groove coincides, after which they fasten them with bolts. To give a sharpening device of greater stability, the lower part of the surface can be laid a piece of rubber.

Types of fixtures for dragging the cutting tool are different and each wizard will be able to stop their choice on the manual machine, which will fully satisfy its needs.

Practically everyone homemade Masters are available cutting tools. Over time, the cutting edges lose their former sharpness, and work becomes unbearable such a product. There are two options for solving this problem: to sharpen the instrument and pay a lot of money or collect the device for sharpening the knives and sharpen the products personally.

Causes of blunting blades

Bottling of the blade can be explained as follows. During cutting on the blade, the smallest abrasive particles affect, whether fruits or vegetables. The cutting edge of the blade is gradually erased, and the knife is dulled. Another reason is the retention of the blade when cutting at a certain angle.

Some parts of the blade load increases, and elevated wear occurs.

There are types of knives that cannot be sharpened independently because of the embossed blades. Also sharpening do not succumb to knives made from ceramics. But, as a rule, the quality of steel in such products is high, and they are stupid, they are extremely rare. There is a variety of low-quality knives, and they have to sharpen very often. As practice shows if low quality steel, then sharpening will solve the problem for a while, and then the blade will fall upon again.

For sharpening knives, abrasive circles will be needed. If there is no possibility to purchase ready-made circles, you can be made by yourself using wooden bars and emery paper Miscellaneous grain.

Standard sharpening angle is 20 - 30 degrees. During sharpening, to withstand the angle is quite difficult, and therefore it is necessary to make a simple sharpener for knives in which it is necessary to withstand the optimal angle. The main rule at the same process is the observance of the exactly defined permanent corner. The force is not required here. The main thing is that the bar and the blade met at a certain angle. This is the main rule of sharpening technique.

Basic mistakes

As it may seem at first glance, sharpening is simple, but if you deepen in the process itself, you can see pretty a large number of Different nuances. Most people allow banal errors when sharpening knives, which leads to uneven drainage or damage to the knife. Common mistakes When sharpening:

• The cutting edge was not conceived. As a result, small burstles are formed on the sides, which temporarily give the sharpness of the blade, and after a brief operation, the blade becomes blunt again. To prevent this problem, both edges should be carefully dotted, and then, as sharpening, use sandpaper or around different grain.
• The presence of paint, oil, dirt on the edge. The bottom line is that when the fat is sharpening, the dirt oil and other components are mixed with grinding abrasives and lead to the appearance of scratches and microscols of the blade. After such a sharpening blade is quickly stupid.
• An important role is played by pressure. It is necessary to remember one simple rule: the sharpness depends not on the force used, but on the duration of sharpening. Excessively strong push leads to the chopping of microparticles from the blade and to poorly sharpening.
• Wrong angle choice. The angle may change - depending on the steel brand and on the purpose of the instrument. For domestic kitchen knives, it is 20 - 25 degrees. For the remaining types of blades that have to withstand heavy loads and work with solid materials, the angle will be equal to 40 degrees.

Guided by simple, but at the same time relevant rules for sharpening, you can not only save time, but also not to spoil the product.

Sharpener "House"

A good knife shaft fixture. Despite simple designThe sharpener copes well with its task. This design consists of a rectangular bar, the upper face of which is made in the form of duscal roof. The angle of inclination of one face is 20 - 25 degrees, which is optimal. The product must be installed in the blade of the blade to one of the ridges of the roof, then take an abrasive circle or a lump with the sandpaper and move the horizontal line. This ensures a constant angle of inclination, which leads to a uniform sharpening of the blade.

There are also complex structures of the homemade grinding machine. The following materials will be needed for manufacture:

• A piece of chalkboard size 500x150x20 mm.
• Metal stud with a carvings that will serve as a guide for the bar.
• M8 bolts and nuts and wood screws.
• Putting nuts or nuts - "lamb".
• The usual textolite or plexiglass, which will serve as a substrate under the knife and a peculiar mobile bed.
• For fastening the knife should be taken a neodymium magnet. The usual will not work, as it is pretty small.

The board must be cleaned, process, and then make a rectangle from it. Another board should be made a rectangular shape that will perform a rack or support feature. Its height should be such that the slope of the main board is equal to 20 degrees. Creares them with each other can be screwed by wood. Then the resulting design is on the workbenk or cut the countertop in advance to which one of the studs will be attached. After reliable fastening of the stud to the table top, you need to take the 200x100 bar and have two holes in it: one for the main stud, on which the movable carriage with sharpening will be mounted, and the other is for the stud, which is attached to the tabletop.

Now you can proceed to the crash of the carriage with the holder sharpened. On the stud, which will keep the carriage, it is necessary to make two clamps from wood, plexiglass or metal. In the clips, drill holes, put on the hairpin and fix with nuts on both sides. The carriage will rotate freely on its axis.

The next step will be the installation of a neodymium magnet to the previously harvested plate. It is necessary to do a longitudinal groove in it - so that the tripod can be shocking up and down. In the middle of the bed, drill a hole and insert a bolt with a nut, which, in turn, will press the plate. At the end of the plate, you can simply glue the neodymium magnet to hold the knife.

The homemade device is ready to use. With it, you can sharpen the chisels and the plans.

It should be noted that the drainage is carried out without water, so the abrasive paper or the circle will be strongly exhausted, but for sharpening knives and tools at home this option is quite suitable.

Homeband

If there is an economy, it will facilitate the process, but there is one circumstance. When sharpening on the machine, it is almost impossible to evenly put pressure on the knife. Therefore, you can make the device for sharpening knives, which will serve as a guide for the blade and will provide a uniform pressure. It will be simple, but an effective electricoid. For its manufacture, you will need the following components:

• Bar.
• Four bolts or four studs with M8 thread.
• Four lamb.
• Self-tapping screws.

On the contrary, the guide is fastened off, which will move the slider. The guide itself can be attached to the workbench or make a pre-bed. It must be mobile. To do this, you can cut the longitudinal groove in the bed and fix the tripod with two studs. Then take two bars, over the sides, drill holes, insert the studs and tighten them on both sides with lambs. The next step will be the fastening on which the cutting product will be lying. This can be done with the help of small pieces of timber, which should be attached on the sides of the moving carriage.

After that, you can proceed to sharpening. Movable carriage to put on the desired height and hold the lamb. Tripod himself move to the desired distance, securely fasten and sharpen the product, moving the knife along the side guides.

Sharpener LM.

If in the future it is planned to engage in a professional sharpening tool in large quantities, then you can make sharpened, which is called: Lansky-Metabo. Drawings devices For sharpening knives, they look like this:

If the product is clamping in the clips root part, then the sharpening angle will be the largest. A knife with an angle can be used as a "colun" and processing solid wood. Also with ease, you can make knives and from fugovalny machine. Clamps for the knife can be made from a corner or from wood. The disadvantage of this design is the complexity when assembling and a large number of details.

If there is no possibility to assemble a complex tool for sharpening knives, then you can do without screwdrivers and make manual sharpeners for knives. A simple sharpener can be made it from the angular frame, which is mounted by donel.

If the sharpener is supplemented with a sliding carriage, it is not necessary to hold the knife at a certain angle, which, in turn, will well affect the sharpening of the blade. For the manufacture of a movable carriage, you will need a triangular and magnet bar. It is best to use a neodymium magnet that allows you to attract the knife and secure it securely. If such a magnet is missing, then you can take components from an HDD (hard disk).

Before you give a knife or other product for sharpening, you should familiarize yourself with the material that will help not only in the manufacture of grinding with your own hands, but also save a certain amount. The main aspect is to obtain additional experience that will be useful in the future.

With repeated use of knives, each mistress faces a problem when they start to fill and work them becomes simply impossible. In addition, it is unsafe, as the knife can slip when cutting and injured you. So that this does not happen, knives should be accurately accusable with the help of a special sharpening device.

You can purchase a knife sharpener in the nearest economic store or in the market where you will be offered different kinds devices. Select yourself yourself. But not to make mistakes, you need to know how to properly evaluate them in terms of convenience and quality of operation.

Not always proposed options are arranged by consumers, so many make sharpeners with their own hands using special stones, tools and drawing sketches with dimensions. The photo shows the options for self-made sharpeners for knives.

Features of sharpening knife

When draining knives, the main thing is to make the right angle of contact with the faces of the blades so that they serve you for a long time and efficiently. Therefore, self-sharpening knives, it is necessary to keep the existing angle of inclination of the blades.

Each knife blade is characterized by own optimal angles of inclination:

• from 10 to 15 degrees - for a medical scalpel or a dangerous razor;
• from 15 to 20 degrees - for household knives used for cutting bread products, vegetables or fruits;
• from 20 to 25 degrees - for the knives of multifunctional use for cutting a variety of products;
• from 25 to 30 degrees - for reliable satellites of hunters and tourists in distant campaigns;
• from 30 to 40 degrees - for cutting materials that differ in particular hardness.

To sharpen the right corner of the blade, you can not do without special devices, since it is difficult to do this manually.

The design of such devices is not complicated, so it is easy and quick to make yourself, but detailed instructions For the manufacture of sharpeners can be borrowed from the Internet.

Types for knives

From a rather line range different species Sharpeners for knives Select the desired option is quite simple.

The main elements of the grinding tool are focusing for fixing the knife and abrasive bar, which is used as ready abrasive materials (stones) or own manufacture. But before being taken for work, you need to know how to make a sharpener for knives with your own hands.

Varieties of stones for sharpening

There are several varieties of grinding stones:

• water. Stones for sharpening used in water are less erased during operation.
• oil. In structure and configurations are similar to water, but with a more oily surface.
• natural. For their manufacture, only natural raw materials are used in the process of production.
• artificial. In this case, the name speaks for itself, i.e. abrasive material is created artificially.
• rubber. They are not as often as the previous ones, besides, they are inconvenient during the application.

What can make sharpener sharpener

To make a grinding bar with their own hands, you can use the most simple way. Take a small glass rectangular plate with a thickness of about 5 mm. Using double-sided adhesion fixes on both sides, the strips of emery paper of large and medium grain.

The bar is ready for operation, as necessary, the worn outflow can be easily replaced by a new one. This method is the most budget price.

The disadvantages of this device include:

• fast wear of the abrasive and fragility of the product (when fixing the timber, you need to be neat that the glass has not cracked).
• possible overheating of the material with fast movements during sharpening.

The best ideas for knives for knives can be found on the relevant sites.

Bruks from wood

This method of manufacturing the knife sharpening tool is also simple and accessible to everyone. You will need four identical bars: two abrasive and two wooden.

At the beginning of our work, pick up the sanding of the brus from the tree so that their surface is smooth without sowing. Make the markup of the bar in accordance with the necessary angle of inclination. Attach the grinding stone and make it a width on a tree bar.

Note!

Make a 1.5 cm depth depth and insert abrasives into the grooves. Secure the stones with bolts. A piece of rubber attached from below will give the design stability.

In addition, you can make the adjustable sharpener with your own hands, but the next article will tell about how to do this.

Stock Foto Sharpeners for knives do it yourself

Note!

Note!

The presence of a sharpening machine at home solves many problems with sharpening metal equipment, but, alas, the cost of such a machine is quite high. About how to construct a homemade sharpening machine will later consider.

Functional features of the work and the device of the grinding machine

In order to sharpen a variety of steel products, a sharpening machine is used. This unit consists of the bed to which the electric motor is attached. The engine mount is carried out with an axis shift by 1.5 °. A node with a grinding device is attached to the engine shaft. If you move the node manually, it is possible to sharpen the parts in the horizontal and vertical direction.

Guide that is located on two column parts, exercises horizontal feed. It moves due to the presence of a worm-type transmission, which is located on the bed. At the end of the worm shaft, a limb device performs direct movement grinding Circle.

The longitudinal feed should be performed manually, by moving a sharpening part. Mandrel is another detail of a sharpening machine that is attached to the racks. The fixation of the node holder is due to the presence of screw clamps.

The holder contains a handle that allows the details to pass through the machine. To perform circular sharpening parts, there is a hole to which the prefix is \u200b\u200battached, which allows you to sharpen knives. On the retaining device there is a component of the heater type, with which the tool sharpened occurs.

In a ratio with the type of work, which is performed on the sharpening machine, there are several fundamental differences in the method of sharpening tools. Allocate:

• sharpening using the retaining device;
• radius option sharpening with the prefix;
• sharpening with a girlfriend.

The first option allows you to process absolutely flat canvas, with the presence of direct edge. It includes:

• hand-type planer
• four
• metal plates Furka
• cut
• chisels.

Before starting work, you should pay attention to the location of the slider. It must be installed in the extreme left position. Next occurs the detail with the help of a bracket in the form of the letter P, fixation and clamping screws. The edge that removes the chamfer must be located in parallel with respect to the work end of the grinding circle. The gap between these items should be 0.1-0.2 cm.

Then the device is turned on and the sharpening. A person who works with the detail must provide its easy contact with grinding circle. Wherein left hand Responsible for the rotation of the transmission, and the right - longitudinally moves the item. Move the details occurs exclusively by the working end of the circle for grinding.

During radius type sharpening, a part of the console is used, which allows you to provide an extraordinary sharpening on the tool with the presence of cutting edges.

If the sharpening is performed using the console, then disconnecting the clamping brackets and fixation screws. The axis of the console is installed on the center of the machine and then fixed the clamping screw.

If the console rotation occurs easily, it means it is installed correctly. Next, you need to lock the holder and move the slider to the middle of the grinding machine.

Advantages and scope of use of a sharpening machine

Electromechanical type sharpened machines possess large quantity Advantages compared to manual type devices:

1. The ability to carry out many operations at sharpening a different tool independently, without the involvement of a specialist.

2. Long term Operating allows you to use a sharpening machine for 10-15 years.

3. Mechanization of the sharpening process allows you to save time and makes this process easier.

4. Easy to use a sharpening machine allows you to perform a variety of operations on sharpening and grinding metal parts Even non-professional.

5. Another advantage of this device is the ability to independent manufacture: This will allow you to significantly save on the purchase of this device.

6. Sharpening machines of universal type are characterized by high performance and efficiency.

There are sharpened machines that are capable of sharpening only one tool, and universal sharpening machines - which are suitable for sharpening almost any equipment.

Sharpening machines are capable of sharpening a knife, chainsaw, drill, cutters, dolbnyaki, cutters, broach. Also, they carry out the inner and outer grinding of the metal surface.

The sharpening of any tool is required almost anywhere, and therefore the sphere of using the grinding machine is quite wide. They are used as in the private sphere, in garages, on a hundred, in workshops and in large industrial installations.

Main types of grinding machines

In accordance with the method and the object of sharpening, machines are distinguished:

• universal type
• specialized type.

The universal sharpening machine allows you to handle parts, different species. They have conventional and special devices that secure and fix a variety of tools. Such machines are capable of grinding: sweep, shaped cutters, cutters, drills, dies, etc.

A specialized cutting machine differs from the universal, ability to sharpen the parts of only one species. They are highly productive because they do not require constant replacement constructive elements. Specialized machines are characterized by more accurate quality of parts processing. Such machines are used in enterprises that react details or parts or in the case when the sharpening on universal machine is inaccurate.

Universal type machines are perfectly coping with sharpening blades, such as dumplings, cutters and sweeps. They provide an opportunity in the processing of gearheads, cutters or worm cutters.

Specialized sharpening machines are divided into machines:

• for chainsaw
• for drills
• for knives, etc.

Grinding machines for chainsaw are divided into two types: electrical and manual. Sharpening on the hand machine involves the exact sharpening of the chain. It is possible to fix the position of the file, so all the teeth are obtained sharp and have the same size.

In workshops specializing in sharpening chainsaws use equipment electric type. It includes a grinding disk that, using the setting, accurately indicates an angle for sharpening.

Universal sharpening machine with their own hands

For the manufacture of a sharpening machine, the electric motor will be required, the power of which does not exceed 1 kW, two pulleys, bearings with a shaft.

These parts are mounted on the bed, which is the easiest way to make from steel corners.

For a girlfriend you need to build a swivel bar, which regulates the slope of the part relative to the grinding circle.

In the process of sharpening, you should install the item so that it is minimally in contact with the circle. Gradually bring it closer.

The scheme of the sharpening machine is based on the correctness of calculations on the installation of grinding circle and a girlfriend.

1. With the help of protective casing, close the gap circle should be closed.

2. When working with the machine, use the goggles to protect yourself from a fragment in the eyes.

3. The maximum distance between the stove and the grinding circle is 0.3 cm.

4. The length of the flanges responsible for clamp should be no less than the fourth part of the diameter of the circle.

5. In the span-flange space, set the gasket from the paronite, it will ensure the nut on the gross area.

Sharpening machine for drills with your own hands

To save on the purchase of the machine for sharpening drills, try to make it yourself.

To do this, you will need:

• toggle
• sharpening circle
• plugs
• powerful electric motor
• stands,
• electrical conductors

To protect yourself in the process of work, it is recommended to install the machine on the bed, which will be closed, the only grinding circle and axis will be visible outside.

This unit will work from the mains. Best place To install such a machine - steel table.

Machine instruction:

1. Granular disk on the motor shaft. In the event that the disk diameter does not coincide with the shaft diameter, use the washer.

2. Then secure them with the help of a fastening nut or use special nozzlewhich will ensure reliable sharpening drill.

3. In the event that the size of the shaft is smaller for the size of the disk, the sleeve is required. It is attached to the shaft by a bolt, in a pre-prepared hole.

Tip: When choosing an electric motor excellent option will be the device from the old washing machine.

4. The following step includes the engine connection to the wires and the outlet. It is possible to use wires from old unnecessary electrical appliances.

5. Provide the wire to the starting device. It must have three crushed contacts. Connect them in such a way that using the button easily turn on and off the machine.

6. For protection electric engine From dirt and dust it should be done for it a protective box.

Slashing machine for knives: Manufacturing instructions

Consider several options for the manufacture of homemade sharpening machines, with which the knife can be sharpened.

The first option is a manual machine. For the manufacture of which will be needed:

• wooden planks or boards,
• screws
• slash for sharpening.

Take two wooden carbon and secure them with screws, and insert the bar between them. It should be securely fixed in the device. The angle size is calculated in the ratio with the desired knife sharpening angle.

The main disadvantage of such a device is that the angle of inclination of the bar cannot be adjusted. It is required to disassemble the entire design.

Another option consists of a threaded washer that holds the bar in a reliable position. To close the thread, use a heat shrink type tube.

Use two clips for paper and secure the stand to the desired height with them. Thus, while holding the bar in the hand itself, select the desired level of inclination and sharpen.

Another option manual Machine Allows you to sharpen not only knives, but also the chisels and the plans. In the bar, fasten the device to be sharpened. The choice of sharpening angle depends on how the corner will be located in relation to the tool. To ensure the convenience of sharpening and protect the surface from the presence of damage, put a wooden board or glass for this instrument.

Most parts for a sharpening machine can be made literally from anything, following general principle Devices. As an example, we take a laminated or polished cellular phanener with a thickness of 8-12 mm, which was used everywhere in the manufacture of cases of Soviet radio engineering.

The base should be hard - about 3.5-5 kg \u200b\u200b- otherwise the machine will be unstable and unsuitable for sharpening a heavy chopping tool. Therefore, the inclusion of steel elements in the design of steel elements is welcomed, for example, the base of the housing can be "cutting" with a corner of 20x20 mm.

From plywood you need to cut two parts in the form of a rectangular trapezium with the bases of 170 and 60 mm and a height of 230 mm. With a cut, leave the allowance of 0.5-0.7 mm on the processing of the ends: they must be straight and accurately match the markup.

The third part is the inclined plane from the plywood plate with dimensions of 230x150 mm. It is installed between the inclined sides of the side walls, while the sidewall trapezoids are based on a rectangular side.

In other words, the base of the machine is a kind of wedge, but the inclined plane should perform in front of 40 mm. At the end of the side walls, postpone two lines with an indentation of plywood thickness in half. Drill in each plate three holes for fastening parts for screws. Transfer the drill to the ends of the inclined part, temporarily connect the base details.

In the back of the side walls are connected by the bar 60x60 mm, which is attached to the end with two screws on each side. In Bruke, you need to make a 10 mm vertical hole with an indent of 50 mm from the center, that is, 25 mm from the edge. To be confident in verticality, it is better to drill a thin drill on both sides, and then expand. On top and bottom screwed two hoods into the hole with internal thread M10, and in them - 10 mm stud 250 mm long. Here it may be necessary to adjust the lower feutside slightly if its carving does not match the hairpin.

Bearing device.

Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be modified by providing the fixation and clamping tool tool.

At first, set aside from the front edge of 40 mm and on this line with a suction knife, stuff a groove with a depth of about 2 mm. Sectional or shoe knife from the end of the plank chop the two top layers of the veneer, so that the sample was formed, into which you can invest 2 mm steel plate flush with a common plane.

The girlfriend consists of two steel steels 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. They need to be folded together in a long end with uniform deposits along the edges and make three through holes by 6 mm. Planks for these holes need to be filled with bolts, placing hats on the side of the top, larger plate. Arc welding is leaking each hat, welding it with a plate, then remove the influx of metal and stick the plate until the perfectly flat plane is obtained.

Attach a narrower response plate to the sample on the edge and transfer the holes with the drill, then fasten the girlfriend bolts. Before installing it, it can also be magnetized with a constant current, it will help in sharpening small blades.

Fixation mechanism.

The second part of the girlfriend is a clamping plank. It is also made of two parts:

• Upper g-shaped bar 150x180 mm with a width of the shelves of about 45-50 mm.
• Bottom rectangular rectangular layout 50x100 mm.

Details need to be folded like how the parts of the girlfriend were folded, having a response to the long-range edge of the top presser. In the center we do two holes with an indent of 25 mm from the edges of a small part, through them we are tightened by the parts with two 8 mm bolts. It is necessary to start them in opposite directions, while the hat of the upper (near) bolt is located on the part side of the presses. Bolt caps are also welded to plates and pre-grind to obtain neat rounds.

On the inclined plate with an indent of 40 mm from the edge, swipe the line with a line, and make one 8 mm opening 25 mm from the upper and lower edges. Connect the layout of the edge of the holes and the jigsaw, make a cut with the allowance. The resulting groove is brought to a width of 8.2-8.5 mm.

Create a clamping and retaliatory bar through the groove in the table. Topboard tighten the bolt to the nut so that the plane retains minimal mobility, then correct the connection with the second nut. To climb or leave the bar from below (in the base niche), screw the nut-lamb nuts to the second bolt.

Adjusting the angle of sharpening.

On the heel, screwed into the base bar, sketch a wide washer and tighten the nut so that the rod does not turn into the fun.
The adjusting pad must be made of a small bar of solid material with dimensions of approximately 20x40x80 mm. Take carbit, textolite or wood solid rocks.

15 mm from the edge of the block is drilled in 20 mm end on both sides, the hole is expanding to 9 mm, then cutting the threads inside. With an indent of 50 mm from the axis of the hole, the second is drilled, but in a flat part of the part, that is, perpendicular to the previous one. This hole should have a diameter of about 14 mm, in addition, it is necessary to solve a round rashpil.

The block is screwed onto the stud, it is possible to relatively accurately adjust the height of the eyes without a complex system of screw fixators as in original machineIn practice, implement a little harder. To the block be fixed when working, it is necessary to contact her lamb nuts M10 on both sides.

Carriage and replaceable bars.

For a grind carriage, you will need to cook 30 cm segments of the pylon M10 and a smooth smooth rod with a thickness of 10 mm. Two solid pavers with dimensions of approximately 50x80 mm thick up to 20 mm are also needed. In each bar in the center and with an indent of 20 mm from the upper edge, 10 mm should be done.

A nut-lamb is cooled at the bar, then a wide washer and two bar, the washer and nut again. Between the strokes, you can clamp rectangular grinding stonesBut it is better to make several replaceable grinding bars.
As the basis for them, take a light aluminum profile with a flat part of a width of 40-50 mm. It can be profile rectangular trumpet Or segments of an old cornice profile.

The flat part of the whirlpool and degreased, the "moment" we stick to it the strips of sandpaper of different grain grain from 400 to 1200 grit. Choose a sandpaper on a tissue basis, and on one of the bars glue the suede leather strip to edit the blades of abrasive paste.

How to point correctly.

For proper sharpening, make a few templates from plywood with 14-20 angles? For cutting and 30-37? For chopping edges, the exact angle depends on the steel brand. Fix the blade parallel to the edge of the girlfriend and press it with a bar. Adjust the angle between the planes of the grinding pad and the tilt of the table.

Start sharpening a large (P400) bar, if the edge does not have the right angle. Whether the strip of the descent take the shape of a straight strip without intrusive and waves. Reduce the graininess and go through both sides of the blade first by the P800 BRANCOM, and then P1000 or P1200. When sharpening the blades, hold the Bru with a little effort in both directions.

After sharpening the blade you need to fix the "leather" bar, which caused a small amount of goe paste. If the blades are edited, the working motion is sent only towards the edge (on itself), but not against it. And, finally, a small advice: if you sharpen knives with polished blades and engraving, look at them with painting scotch, so that the squeezing abrasive leaves the scratches. Also it will not prevent the surface of the girlfriend vinyl self-tech.