Plywood machines for cutting, joining, drilling and finishing. Homemade wood lathe: the process of work

In the home carpentry workshop lathe will never be superfluous. But not everyone has the opportunity to buy it - the pleasure is not cheap. But if you really need it, then a small wood lathe can be made with your own hands, using angle grinders and inexpensive materials for this.

The base and body of the lathe will be assembled from plywood. For the base, you need a piece of plywood with dimensions of 45x30 mm. The rest of the homemade machine tool is adjusted in size. To connect the parts, we will use self-tapping screws, and also need threaded bushings and bolts.

The main stages of work

First of all, we make markings, after which we drill holes for self-tapping screws. Then we fasten the previously prepared plywood scraps to the base. For reliability, you can also use wood glue.

In the next step, you will need to make the headstock of the lathe. To do this, cut out several circles from plywood, and glue them together. In the resulting workpiece we cut out a square "window", after which we drill eight holes for threaded bushings.

We put the manufactured headstock of the lathe on the shaft gearbox angle grinder... We fasten the grinder itself with steel clamps (at least two pieces are needed). It also doesn’t hurt to make a tailstock. On the last stage we install the support for the tool, and the homemade lathe is ready to go.

An electric jigsaw is a tool, without which it is simply impossible to perform many work on wood processing and the materials in which it is used. Possessing compactness and low weight, the handheld portable jigsaw is capable of cutting out products of very complex geometry from the workpiece.

The jigsaw is very convenient in work and, moreover, it provides a very precise and thin cut... If you don't want to spend money on a purchased jigsaw, you can make it yourself at home.

Lightest product

The jigsaw table itself can be made by hand in a short space of an hour. The advantage of the manufactured structure will be its simplicity. It can be easily mounted on a tabletop or workbench and, if necessary, it is also easy to disassemble. Disadvantage homemade construction its small area can be considered.

The simplest product consists of the following parts:

  1. Plywood.
  2. Mounting screws.
  3. Clamps.

The working basis of the machine can be laminated plywood, in which it is necessary to drill holes for installing fasteners and for the file itself. The plywood must be at least 10 millimeters thick. However, you may also need to make holes for the mounting screws in the sole of your power tool.

Homemade design can be attached to the workbench using clamps... Please note that the heads of the screws for fastening must be recessed into the surface of the sheet so that they do not interfere with you during operation. Such a machine can easily cope with the processing of small workpieces up to 30 millimeters thick. A drawing of this type of machine can be easily found on the Internet, and then assemble it with your own hands at home.

Another variant

This option consists of the following parts:

  1. Chipboard frame.
  2. Vacuum cleaner tube.
  3. Film faced plywood for the cover of the machine.
  4. Confirms.

There is a second option for a stationary device for working with wood material which is collected from more spare parts, but making it is not difficult. The frame is made of chipboard and consists of a rear wall and two sidewalls. To make it easy to get to the power button, the front wall of the machine is absent.

Do it yourself in the back wall drill holes for vacuum cleaner tube and cord. The cover for the machine can be made of 10 mm thick film faced plywood. The whole structure can be pulled together by confirmation. The jigsaw can be fixed in the same way as described above in the first case.

On a machine made according to this option, it is possible to process more massive workpieces, however, when working with a thick workpiece, the jigsaw saw can go in both directions and be deflected back. In this case, the accuracy of the cut deteriorates. This drawback can be easily eliminated with your own hands by installing a bracket on a homemade machine that will serve as an emphasis.

The jigsaw saw will move. between two 11mm bearings, which must be screwed to the L-shaped strip made of steel. The back of the saw will rest against the wall of the bracket itself. This design will prevent the blade of your jigsaw from deviating from the specified trajectory.

The bracket must be attached to the frame made of 50x50 mm bars. It can be lowered or raised depending on the length and thickness of the wood to be treated. To do this, the frame itself, together with the stop, must not be fixed tightly to the sidewall of the machine, but pressed against it with a hardboard, steel or textolite plate. We install the vertical rack of the frame between the hardboard and the bed.

The machine can be more convenient if you mount an additional limit bar on it, with which you can cut material into workpieces of the same length and thickness.

The limiter is attached to the machine with clamps. His made from timber , aluminum or steel angle. For convenience, you can also install the bar on a slide, which must be fixed to the sides or bottom of the tabletop.

Chipboard jigsaw table

To make this jigsaw table, you must have a certain carpentry skill, since when connecting its tsars with legs, it must be made into a tenon-groove. The spike-groove itself can be changed to a connection using dowels, wood glue and self-tapping screws.

The cover of the machine must be made lifting, to facilitate access to the tool when changing it. In order for the machine to be multifunctional, it is necessary to provide a place for mounting a manual milling machine.

The table is assembled from the following materials:

  • bar 80 by 80 millimeters;
  • bar 40 by 80 millimeters;
  • laminated plywood or chipboard with dimensions of 900 x 900 millimeters.

Measure the distance between the legs, it should be between 60 and 70 centimeters. Bars for proges and tsars will be obtained if the bars are cut longitudinally 80 by 80 millimeters. You can choose the height of the legs themselves at your discretion, it all depends on how comfortable it will be for you to perform work on the machine.

At each end of the prodges and tsars, it is necessary to drill two holes for the dowels. The same holes must be made on the sidewalls of the legs. Coat the dowels with glue half their length and insert into the ends. After that, assemble the entire frame. It will turn out to be non-collapsible. After checking and possible corrections, it shrinks tightly.

All surfaces in the contact points must be grease with glue... Use self-tapping screws for additional structural strength, which must be screwed through the holes prepared in advance for them.

The cover must be attached to one of the side bars with hinges; for this, a slot must be made in it to facilitate the removal and installation of the jigsaw. In the countertop with back side it is necessary to screw on two strips with a pre-selected quarter, into which the sole of the power tool should enter.

Holes must be made in the strips, into which bolts or pressure screws must then be installed. A jigsaw attached under the worktop will be able to cut thicker material if a recess is made in the lid for its sole. The easiest way to perform this indentation is using a milling machine.

As a result, the table will turn out to be very simple and spacious, so the required strength of its lid can be provided by a large thickness of chipboard or plywood. Use sheets 20 millimeters or more thick.

Jigsaw machine using thin saws

Since when cutting difficult patterns in plywood, the jigsaw saw is not very suitable for this, you need to take a thin nail file. It can be attached to a hand-held power tool using the original attachment.

We also attach the jigsaw to the table top, but a thin file must be pulled, since it will not be enough just set on a pendulum... To facilitate the process of stretching the file, it is necessary to make a rocker from a bar.

The tension on your blade is provided by a spring. Put its lower loop on the cross hairpin. The upper hinge must be inserted into the adjusting screw, which changes the tension of the damper. All wooden blanks for a homemade machine tool are made of hardwood.

Since in jigsaw there is no possibility of attaching a thin-section blade, you can remake a fragment of an old saw by pre-drilling a hole in it and completing it with a screw with nut and clamping plate.

A vertical slot must be made in the rocker arm, into which a second steel plate must be inserted. It is attached to the rocker with screws. Attaching the upper part of the file to it must be done in the same way as the lower one. To make it easier for you, you can use an old jigsaw to make a plate.

All photos from the article

There are many versions of lathes with which you can. They can be very tiny, in which a conventional electric drill is used as a motor, and quite powerful with large power plants and equipment elements.

In our case, we will use materials, the main ones of which can be found in the garage or basement, and the missing ones can be easily purchased at construction market or in a store.

In the photo - wood lathe 3 in 1

Most of us, most likely, will doubt our abilities and will not even try to repeat what is proposed. At the same time, everything written below will not be difficult for those who have ever worked with wood. You will not see any special methods or techniques here, everything is as simple and accessible as possible.

Materials and equipment

Before you learn how to make a wood lathe yourself, you need to prepare for work.

In this case, you will need:

  • plywood 18 mm thick, from which basically all parts will be made;
  • boards 50 mm thick for the manufacture of the headstock;
  • bar with a section of 50x50 mm for the bed.

Equipment should be prepared:

  1. Electric motor for 220V or 380V, depends on what voltage is suitable for your workshop.
  2. Pulley - it is better to take a 3-strand pulley, with which you can adjust the optimal processing speed. It is advisable to purchase a joint pair.
  3. V-belt.
  4. Drill Chuck - Used as the main holder on the headstock. This is a kind of homemade chuck for a wood lathe.
  5. An electrical box with a switch and its protection against unauthorized pressing.
  6. Wood screws in various sizes.
  7. Bolts, washers, butterfly nuts and T-nuts.
  8. Plastic protective cover.
  9. Steel plate.
  10. Mounting rail for the movement of the tailstock along the bed - if its price does not suit you, you can replace it with an aluminum cornice.
  11. Screw rod - adjusts the reliability of fixing the workpiece in the centers of the machine.
  12. Union nut - is a stopper on the headstock.
  13. Metal loops - allow for optimal belt tension on the pulleys thanks to the console.
  14. Retaining rings - used to hold bearings in their seats.

The following is suggested step-by-step instruction process.

Manufacturing the bed

The element has important functional significance and is solid foundation for the rest of the moving parts of our machine.

  1. "Bed" is made of 2 sheets of plywood, which are connected to each other using glue and self-tapping screws:
  • the first has a size of 18x500x1200 mm;
  • the second - 25x500x1200 mm.

  1. Measure two 1200 mm long pieces on the block and cut them off.
  2. Install on the “bed” with 50 mm spacing.
  3. In each bar in the middle, make grooves for rails with a length of 900 mm for installing the headstock and install them.

Tip: instead of the standard T-shaped rails, you can use used aluminum curtain rods, they work just as well.

Machine engine

In this step, everything will depend on what kind of equipment you can buy or find in your home. We will use the engine from grinding machine, but it is better if you can get a motor with a low speed of revolutions - 1750 rpm.

Therefore, in our case, we will have to reduce the declared speed of 3000 rpm using sets of pulleys, for which it is better to use two sets - for the motor and the headstock of the machine.

It is enough to purchase 3-step pulleys, which will help to set the speed from 700 rpm to more than 4000 rpm on the workpiece. Here is some sample data:

The engine platform will be plywood, which is hinged to the main frame. In this case, please note that each of them should be located 60 mm from the edge for secure attachment.

For easy access to starting and stopping equipment, install an on / off button on the front of the lathe. Connection is not difficult - you have to insert it into the circuit between the motor and the 220/380 V network.

Headstock

The element transmits rotation to the workpiece from the engine, reliably holds the equipment parts, so it must be powerful enough. Basically, the dimensions of the headstock depend on the diameter of the pulley. It can be made from hardwood or using a plywood sandwich that will be equally reliable.

Today craftsmen often use hand-made equipment. At the same time, to reduce the cost of such, you can successfully use plywood, making some parts of homemade machines from it.

To avoid dust when operating the machine indoors, install a protective guard.

Plywood properties

Plywood is a very versatile material. It is strong enough, easy to use, widely available and relatively inexpensive. That is why plywood is often used not only for making furniture or decorative items with your own hands, but also for making homemade machines.

Physicomechanical characteristics and standard sizes of construction plywood grades FSF and FBS

Some parts of the machine can be perfectly replaced with parts made of plywood. For example, a plywood table is perfectly used for cutting material, covers and movable supports made of plywood have also proven themselves remarkably in use. And this is not all the details that can be made of plywood in order to make a machine with your own hands.

When choosing a material, it is worth starting from what load the plywood and parts from it are designed for. In most cases, when making a homemade machine, it is optimal to use plywood of medium thickness. So, home-made machines are designed for use at home without a drop in temperature and humidity. Thick is used if the machine or its elements, for example, a table for cutting material, require increased strength, then it is better to use a more durable one, with a thickness of 10 mm or more. However, when making any home machine tools, you should initially abandon the use of thin plywood, because it is too fragile for such work and unsuitable for use in the manufacture of a homemade machine tool.

When cutting parts up to 6 mm thick, you can use manual or electric jigsaw... If there is a need to cut a thick sheet exceeding a thickness of 6 mm, use Circular Saw.

When sawing plywood, special cuts are made across the grain with a knife in order to relieve stress on the wood.

How to make a homemade plywood machine?

You should immediately make a reservation what is meant home machine, which is unlikely to be suitable for industrial conditions, but for a home it is the optimal balance of value for money, taking into account the relatively low load on it. To make a homemade plywood machine, you need machines for different needs but the most popular is the CNC machine.

In order to make a CNC machine from plywood, you need not only the plywood itself, but also other tools and materials:

Accessories for assembling the machine must be purchased in advance at any hardware store.

  • special shafts and holders;
  • various bearings;
  • screws;
  • controller;
  • belts and fasteners in the form of screws, nuts, screws and washers.

For cutting and cutting you will need:

  • ruler, square;
  • jigsaw or circular saw based on how thick the plywood will be used.

Since CNC machines involve the use of parts in which plywood is cut figuratively and must fit very tightly to each other, so that there is not the slightest gap, then it is very responsible to approach cutting and sawing, making a future machine, and observing certain rules ...

When making machines for home use with your own hands, you need to remember that this material does not tolerate strong mechanical stress. Therefore, the fastening of parts is carried out using grooves and spikes, which are additionally coated with glue for strength. In order for the connection to be reliable, the tongue and groove must fit perfectly together without any gaps or crevices. No nails or screws can be used as connecting elements. Machines and their parts made of plywood are exposed to vibration during operation and, if they are incorrectly fastened, can fall apart at the most crucial moment, therefore, special attention must be paid to fastening.

Since, when making machines with plywood parts, you have to use a drill, you also need to observe a little trick so as not to spoil the material. In order to prevent chips from forming at the exit of the drill, another piece of the same material should be placed under the working sheet on the other side, it is optimal to use the remnants of plywood after cutting and cutting.

The easiest and fastest way to use a jigsaw to cut parts.

After the parts are cut, they must be processed, otherwise the plywood may begin to delaminate and collapse. Special attention you need to pay attention to the processing of the edge, which is most susceptible to changes in temperature or humidity. As a rule, initially every detail needs to be carefully sanded. sandpaper with fine grain, you need to start grinding from the corners along the grain. The corners are processed with sandpaper separately, they are given special attention, if necessary, they can be sharpened before processing.

After completing a thorough grinding of all parts with fine-grained sandpaper, you can proceed to priming them. special composition, preventing from the effects of temperature and humidity changes, as a result of which the plywood can begin to exfoliate and disrupt the machine's performance. On the final stage, which is done at will, you can paint the parts of the plywood machine.

Be sure to saw dry material, as it is less susceptible to resistance. Using damp plywood may cause delamination.

If there are signs that the teeth in the cutting blade are dull, it should be changed immediately to avoid cracking, an unsightly edge and damage to the material.

It is best to work along the fibers with a jigsaw, but when cross-cutting, a hand file is more suitable, which, although it will make the edge more uneven, it guarantees that the tool does not jam or move away from the intended cutting line.

When working with thick plywood, it is best to use a furniture router to cut an arc or circle. In order to avoid chips and other damage as much as possible, it is best to glue adhesive tape to the place of the future cut, and then cut the plywood.

To all brain craftsmen Good day! For those of you who do not have large workshops or small tool racks, come in handy homemade of this article, which compactly contains all useful tools, and which can be easily moved to other work sites.

When creating this brainwashing I tried to make it as compact as possible so that it could be conveniently used even in small space, and move even if you do not have a car. To do this, she has transport wheels, and move under the tree you can do it alone, but if you still use a car for this, then you will need only a little help with loading.

This compact machine homemade includes: circular table, milling table and a jigsaw. It also has a large cabinet in which you can store your other tools.

To show under the tree in action I will make a couple of boxes out of cheap pine planks.
The video shows how I cut the boards for boxes into circular table with the help of a slide, to obtain the required dimensions I use an additional bar with a clip.

Then I make a groove for the base.
The desired angle can be obtained using a corner stop with a guide.
Removing the pad, you can set the angle of inclination of the disc, in this case 45 degrees.
The jigsaw guide is adjustable in three axes, so you can use the blades different sizes- from 100 to 180mm, thus obtaining a maximum cutting height of 70mm.

Next, I make a pen drawer, and for this I use a milling cutter, with which I bring a round chamfer. There is also a guide for the miter fence, and an outboard bearing for milling curved lines will also be useful. The router itself can be tilted at an angle of 45 °.
The box is ready, and it takes its intended place.

A groove-tenon connection is possible on this brain table done in two ways. First, with a jigsaw, an additional strip and an angle stop. And secondly, on a circular table using a special conductor.

With the disc itself big size which can be installed on homemade(235mm), you can get a maximum cut of 70mm. The rail has small adjusting bolts to reduce the tilt, and if necessary, even to lock.

To connect the parts, I chose the second method, for this, some parts should be placed on one side of the conductor, and others on the other.

And this is what happened, we go to the router, this time we are already using the clamping device to make a groove in the base. To do this, raise the circular saw and set the router at an angle of 45 °.

Step 1: cutting the parts

The creation of a multifunctional table begins - homemade with cutting of all parts and their numbering.
Further, to obtain a slot in the handle, 4 corner holes are drilled and “finished” with a jigsaw. Then the holes are drilled with the same dimensions as the diameter and thickness of the opening system washer. The holes are countersinked.

After that, a place is prepared for installing the power on and emergency shutdown buttons. Then, using dowels and 50mm self-tapping screws, the body is assembled brain table... On request, the body parts are varnished, so craft will look better and last longer.

Having prepared the body, the 3 upper parts are assembled. For this, the parts of the folding frames are cut and the necessary holes are drilled in them. The hole for the tube is drilled with such a diameter that this tube rotates freely in it, since it is the axis of rotation of the hinged covers.

Then the cavity for the circular saw is selected. I did it using my 3D router, in the absence of something like this, it can be done with a conventional router using the appropriate jigs and guides.

WITH front side the cover of the circular table, a cavity is selected for a quick-detachable panel, removing which it will be possible to change the angle of inclination of the disk. The panel itself can be used to adjust the cavity milling depth.

Having installed the circular saw in the intended cavity, holes are marked for its fastening. A 3D router is well suited for this, because the drilling machine these holes cannot be drilled due to its limited working surface.

Step 2: Start Build

At this stage, the gradual assembly of the portable multifunctional workshop machine begins. homemade.

A groove for the guide is marked and selected using a circular table. Two extra plywoods will give the necessary depth to secure the track strip firmly. Next, a strip with a self-adhesive tape applied to it is attached to the cover.

After that, a hole is drilled for the router. Then the tubes for the axes of rotation are cut off and the frames of the hinged lids are mounted on the body. Fixing supports are manufactured and installed in accordance with the drawings.

The cutter cover is applied to the frame, aligned and fastened with self-tapping screws through the holes in the guide channel.

Then the cover of the jigsaw is prepared, a groove is selected in it for this very jigsaw. If a non-sliding material such as melamine is used for the lid, the lid should be varnished, alternating with sanding.

Having done this, the parts of the vertical lift mechanism of the milling cutter are cut and assembled, with the help of which the milling depth will be adjusted.

Next, two plywoods are glued together to make the holder of the router itself. A hole is drilled in them of the same diameter, or suitable, as when creating the router cover. This holder brain milling machine can be made on a CNC machine or even ordered online.

The finished router bit holder is attached to the vertical lift and can now be tried out.

To mark the radius of the slope grooves, ordinary hinges are temporarily attached to the vertical elevator, and plywood trimmings are used to make revolving handles.

Step 3: Completing the Build

This stage of assembly homemade I'll start with the details I forgot about earlier. They will give stability to the lifting system.

To begin with, the parts of the base are cut, I did this on my circular table, then they are assembled into a frame, which is attached to the bottom of the multifunctional case. brain table... The height of this frame must be the same as the height of the existing castors.

A latch is attached to the flaps of one of the hinged covers, and a lock is attached to the flaps of the other. It can be useful for transportation crafts and act as a preventive measure against theft of your instrument.

Next, a 4-split power extension is prepared, in two connectors of which a jigsaw and a milling cutter will be connected, and an additional power tool in the remaining two. Socket for circular saw connects via the power on button and the emergency shutdown button. The extension cord is wound on special handles made for this.

The quick release panels are made of opal methacrylate. They fit into place, and the cut in the circular saw panel is neatly made by the saw itself. For the pilot bearing, I used an accessory from the old router kit. This tool is useful when milling curved lines.

After that, the level checks the plane of the entire upper part. crafts if the hinged covers do not lie in the plane of the central part, then this can be easily corrected by adjusting the inclination of the fixing supports.

Next, the perpendicularity of the working parts of the tools and the plane of the table is checked. To check the router, a tube is fixed in it, along which the perpendicularity of the axis of the router and the plane of the table looks, and the parallelism of the channel of the guide is also checked and circular disc... And finally, the perpendicularity of the jigsaw blade is checked.

After that, the table covers are folded down to check if the brain tools each other.

Step 4: Useful Gadgets

This step tells about the manufacture of some useful accessories for table- homemade.

First of all, the parts of the slide are cut, then a groove is selected for the guide slider. After that, the two plywood parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, while the positions of the self-tapping screws should be chosen so that they do not interfere with the subsequent refinement of this part. Then a measuring tape is glued into a specially prepared groove on it, and this accessory for brain table varnished, alternating with sanding, thereby creating the necessary smooth surface on this device.

The sled is assembled, placed on a multifunctional homemade and the excess is cut off from them and the middle cut is cut, and then a measuring tape is also glued.

The guide slider is unscrewed from the sled and a groove is made for the "thorn-groove" conductor. The same as my other circular table.

The channel slider is adjusted so that the roll between the bolts disappears. The slider itself can be locked, if necessary, by simply spinning the bot to the maximum.

Next, parts for the rack are cut, it is assembled, and varnished and sanded. After assembling the rack, a fixing system is made for it. The dowels glued into this locking system are used as guide axes. At the end of the post assembly, the handle of the locking system is made, and then the entire post is tested in action.

Additionally, a dust collector for the router is installed on the stand, and on the side brain resistant at the dust collector, threaded bushings are screwed for the pressure panel.

Having done this, the parallelism of the stand and the circular disc is checked, then a measuring tape is glued into the groove of the side wall.

Having finished with this, the parts of the "thorn-groove" conductor are cut, which are then glued and cleaned.

Step 5: some more useful gadgets

This is the last video of this brain leadership, and its first part shows how to make a corner stop (to create it, you can stick a printed template or use a ruler). The stop blank can already be cut on the most multifunctional machine.

The thread in the guide slider is inch, if you need a metric thread, you will have to use a tap.

Be sure to temporarily screw the stop blank to the guide to make sure that the turning radius is correct.

Then the parts of the spike conductor are cut, while it is necessary to slightly increase the thickness of the conductor attachment to reduce friction.

To make a pressure panel, a template is glued onto a plywood blank, the adjustment grooves of this panel are selected using a router brainworm... V the right places cover with a router, threaded bushings are mounted.

First, a bearing adjustment system is assembled to avoid wear on the plywood, a metal plate is used. One of the holes is made large in order to adjust the bearings through this.

The same is done with plywood.

After that, the height adjustment system is mechanized, and now the structure can move in three axes, thereby obtaining the required position.

Finally, the finished sawing guide can be tested in action, while it is important to hold the board to be sawn with both hands so that it is firmly enough to adhere to the plane of the table.

About the compact multifunctional homemade that's it, good luck with your creativity!