It is believed that without professional instrument High-quality wood or sheet materials Do not perform. Today we will tell about the ways to perform pure smooth cuts without chips, on their own and without using expensive equipment and consumables.

Tools for cutting and mechanics of their work

If not to take into account stationary machines For cutting, alternatives for handmade not so much. From the available tools, it is possible to offer circular and pendulum saws, in common, called ending and electric lobby. It is also possible to perform a fairly high-quality cut with an ushm, which is installed on a tree saw blade with winning teeth. But this is not the most efficient and, moreover, not a safe option.

In the process of cutting by any type of power tool, the working bodies move at a very high speed, and therefore processing mechanics remains as if behind the scenes. However, its understanding is the key to obtaining a clean edge without chips. The simplest principle is based on the work of the pendulum saw. The cut is carried out with the direct movement of the pink web, while the magnitude of the removable fragments is completely dependent on the value of the tooth and its wiring.

Skoles appear due to the heterogeneity of the material being processed, in particular due to the solid peel of laminated sheet materials or for the reason that solid wood fibers have different density. Squares can be formed from different sides of the product depending on the shape of the tooth, the effort of the supply and speed of the working body. When working with the jigsik, the appearance of chips is due to either due to the fact that the teeth do large fragments with invented sideOr because of the pressing of the top layer, at which it is not cut, and is climbed by large fragments.

Work of teeth circular disk In many respects, it looks like a jigsik about the only exception that their movement is directed strictly in one direction, and they move at a very high speed. Also, a significant factor is the direction (angle) of the applied force: if the padlie saw is moving strictly perpendicular to the surface, the circular cuts under an arbitrary angle, depending both from the diameter of the disk and the parts of the part. It can play on the hand: the skew dive of the tooth contributes to a more accurate cutting of the shavings, but on the reverse side, due to the movement of the cutting edges, quite large fragments can escape. Of course, the circular saw will be performed only directly.

Selection of saws and canvases

When cutting cleanliness and processing speed - back dependent values. It is worth noting that the chips on the cut will appear in any case, so the main task is reduced to a decrease in their size to such a value when they can be easily eliminated by subsequent processing. The size of the chips will be the less than the less the size of the tooth and the closer to straight cornerunder which the cutting edge concerns the surface of the material. To select a circular saw disk it is two most important factors From three.

The third one can call the size of the wiring - the displacement of neighboring teeth, which is enough to simply determine by attaching to them a ruler. To ensure a clean cut, the wiring must be minimal, but do not forget that in this case, when trying to cut a thick board or a sheet of plywood, the disk can tritely clamp or the end will be burned from strong friction.

The saw blades for the jigsaw are more diverse. For cutting without chipping, a series of pyline-pylons, for example, Bosch has a line of crafts with the name Cleanwood. The main difference is the small size and lack of a pronounced direction of teeth. They, as a rule, have the shape of an equifiable triangle and carry out cut in both directions of movement.

Also, saws for pure cuts are distinguished by almost complete lack of wiring and the opposite direction of sharpening of neighboring teeth. So that with low wiring to provide the opportunity curly cutThe peelings have a very small width, because of which they become quite fragile.

For finishing cutting of sheet materials can be used and canvas designed to work with metal products. These pinks have the smallest size teeth of known, so the cut is slow, but with the highest indicator Quality. Due to the considerable width of metal, clean figure cut can be carried out only with a significant bend radius, an average of about 60-80 cm.

Also note that the blurring of teeth, characteristic of low-quality pylons with the "mileage" of 3-5 meters, also leads to the formation of chips. Therefore, do not scare, acquiring consumables if the quality of processing is really important.

The technique of "zero clearance"

Masters of a carpentry case most often used the principle of refinement of the cutting tool soles, which consists in reducing the gap between the working body and the clamping platform. It is almost guaranteed to eliminate the effect of "breaking" of the crust in top layer material.

The zero clearance is achieved due to the fastening of the plaque on the tool supporting sole. The pad has only one narrow hole (or slot), tightly adjacent to the cutting organ. Because of this, even with a large force of supplying, the teeth will be guaranteed to cut down a fine chips, and not turn the chip in the upper layer of the part.

When using linings, it is extremely important that they do not scratch and damaged the surface of the part. Therefore, they are most often made of material, which is inferior in hardness to be processed, such as MDF or plasterboard. Unfortunately, there is not enough such a lining for a long time, because of which it has to be changed every 4-5 meters of cut.

More durable linings can be made of sheet plastic (PVC, fluoroplastic), fiberglass or metal. In the latter case, the surface of the lining must be thoroughly polished and use soft metals like aluminum or durally to reduce vibration.

Use of adhesive tapes

By the same principle you can protect and back side Cropped material. On the line of the cut, you should stick the tape that will protect against the breaking of large fragments. The surfaces of the surfaces are one of the few ways to ensure the purity of the figure cut by the electric bison. Unfortunately, the greasy tape for this comes out of the best way due to its low strength.

The most qualitative cut can be obtained when the part is aluminum or reinforced with fiberglass Tape-ribbon. It should be so width to cover 15-20 mm on each side from the cut line. The sticker density is also important: the ribbon must be well made a dry rag tampon and eliminate the formation of folds.

It is worth avoiding tapes with a very chain glue. In the process of tearing, they may inject small fibers and fragments of the laminated surface, dissected by microcracks, which are formed during cutting. Also pay attention to how easily the traces of glue are removed and the adhesion is sufficiently high enough adhesion to work with rough materials like unlightened plywood or OSP.

Providing perfectly clean cut

For most parts, it suffices to reduce the particulate size of up to 0.2-0.5 mm. Such small irregularities of the edge edge are not kicked up, if desired, they can easily be eliminated, removing the chamfer essay bars or sailing a wax pencil-corrector. End grinding is also possible emery paperIf with cutting it was given enough allowance.

However, even at home to actually achieve the quality of the cut, comparable with the result of the work of a backdrop with two high-speed discs. This is possible only when the instrument is moving along the guide rail, as a last resort, the temporary stubborn bar.

At first, you need to make two slots of a depth of 0.5 mm on both sides of the part to indicate the thickness of the cut. At the edges of the cut line, you need to scratch two furrows under a flat line. This is done either a segment or oblique shoe knife (for chipboard and wood without coating), or acutely honed drill or a winning cutter (for laminated materials).

The depth of the furrow should be at least half the thickness of the outer layer, inhomogeneous with respect to the main array of the material. This method requires a high accuracy of comparison of the furrow and the cut line, but only so really ensure a perfectly smooth edged end that does not require additional processing.

Despite the huge range of power tools, all new samples appear that more qualitatively perform a certain job. If, for example, cut big circular saw Phaneur, laminate or chipboard, then it is difficult because of the sizes of the saw, as the disk saw, the universal tool and it can be cutting the blanks in 55mm thick.

Another thing is a small circular saw, especially when you saw only Faneru, which is superb saw laminated chipboardfor furniture, and with excellent quality Propil.

Such a tool appeared in 2014, from Bosch, a PKS 16 Multi disk saw. Seemingly this tool resembles more jigsaw, but it is a mini circular, which can be applied to cutting different materials, thickness up to 16mm. This tool is superbly located in one hand, weighs only 1.9 kg. With a capacity of 400 wat speed disc saw It is 6400 rpm. To dry various materials, there are three saws with a diameter of 65mm, one diamond and two with attacked teeth.

Of course, it cannot be said that this is the only tool in this form, as there are similar analogues, among which the Chinese mini circular saw with Aliexpress, the universal disk saw rhythm UPD-900 and many others. But such a mini circular saw is well suitable for home repair, carpentry work or classes your favorite hobby.

Such a saw, you can in a matter of moments get a section of any desired form: a straight, curved or angular, and when used, the accuracy of the seam improves.

And diamond disk You can cut solid materials. The depth of the cut is regulated, so you can start the cut in the middle of the sheet, which makes it possible to make feeds for shells in the kitchen and other rods in the middle of the plywood or chipboard.
Author of the RWT.

2minkusha:
\u003e\u003e\u003e Plywood?
Berezova plywood FSF Sveza.
Format, mm: 1220x2440
The variety is pretty decent, I do not remember, 2 or 3, polished on both sides.
http://www.sveza.ru/catalog.asp?m2id\u003d3455&m3id\u003d3486#m3494.
\u003e\u003e\u003e and thickness?
12 mm

\u003e\u003e\u003e Probably post, and then the line
Quite right. Quote your first message:
Remont_Forever \u003e\u003e\u003e I spent the perfect straight line with laser level, ruler and ballpoint handles.
Remont_Forever \u003e\u003e\u003e Pill by drawn direct

Quoted1 \u003e\u003e\u003e How many cut length? 2400mm?
2440mm.
\u003e\u003e\u003e What is the accuracy - the share of mm?
The line was carried out by a ballpoint handle. Line width - approximately half a millionth. Lobzik was carried out exactly along the line (so that the line was about in the middle of the peel). But the very clear is not in a hurry. After cutting traces of the ink line, it was not visible with one or on the other side. Visually, the final cut was absolutely straight, the waves are not visible.
By the way, the factory edge of plywood turned out to be curved (wave of millimeter 2-3 at the specified length), I had to spill it too.

We will take weeks in two weeks, so when you have to drink to Phaneur. So you intrigued me that I had a Lobzik from her husband and I would try to stronger her myself. Especially since the superconduct does not need.

Quoted1 \u003e\u003e\u003e Technology of application of lines with a laser level

Take the level of the street (see VDSIR 36-2004, p.135-136). Turn on the vertical markup. Ul-C builds a vertical line on the wall, respectively, on a sheet of plywood, which lies in front of the wall - just a straight line.
We place the street and Phaneru relative to each other so that this line can go where we need. In the center of the laser line, we put the pitch with a ballpoint pen or sharply sharpened with a pencil after 20-30 cm. Connect the intended dashes with a single thin line with a thin metal line. Turn off the ul-s. Saw.

Especially convenient to stamp ul-catfish on curves brick Walls Vertical lines for lighthouses for subsequent shockting. This, of course, without a line, simply lead a pencil on a laser line, and that's it.

\u003e\u003e\u003e or you are on a laser beam and led cutting tool?
Not. At first tried, but it is inconvenient. The pill reflects the laser rays in all directions, the laser entails into the eyes, etc.

Quoted1 \u003e\u003e\u003e Do you have a laser marking surface?
Unfortunately no. If I had such a caught, yes marking any surface, yes, banging 2 planes, yes for 2700 rubles ... I would have bought it right. I'm afraid, however, that such has not yet been invented.

Dear masters and experts!
Honestly, I do not see any deep professionalism in sawing Phaneur. Need solid hand, accuracy, patience + some experience. I do not understand what, in general, the bazaar.
It is still not ventilation, for example, to count on.

I think about the goal of the initiator of the topic. Get some kind sunny receptionwhich allows you to quickly cut, not showing patience and accuracy?

Or find out about a tool like a magic stick, which will make a neat cut, in the absence of a solid hand?
Or what ...?

When you look at the store on furniture price tags made from chipboard, you are amazing how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most available materials To construct furniture with your own hands. The benefit is now on sale all the necessary fittings. And furniture projects that on the Internet that in "paper" magazines now you can find for every taste. So what is the problem? The main problem is to carefully cut the chipboard.

From home tools The most suitable for cutting chipboard is a manual disk saw. But when the chipboard with its help, a number of problems arise: 1) It is very difficult to follow strictly in a straight line, saws wishes; 2) Skoles are formed.

Are there any ways to solve these problems? There is. It is about them that we will tell today. By the way, all these tricks apply to the cutting of plywood.

Tip 1: cutting chipboard on the floor with full support

Cutting with full support means that when you bring the saw to the end, the DSP leaf cut will not disappear immediately.

If you want to get a very smooth and clear slice, Chipboard better Total cutting on the floor. So you will get 100% solid, sustainable foundation. The chipboard is not shunken, even if you make up on it from above to finish the cut. You will also be sure that the sliced \u200b\u200bpiece will not fall off, it will not split and will not fall.

Put the 5 × 10 cm of the chipboard under the chipboard of the PDP perpendicular to the section. Brucks will have to sacrifice, since the saw will pass through them. The more stable your sheet of chipboard will lie, the increasing will be cut.

Tip 2: Adjust the depth of the cut

Suitable depth of propyl affects the quality of the cut.

Set the depth so that beyond the lower edge chipboard Or plywood performed no more than half the disk tooth (see photo above). It may seem not important to you, but believe me, the depth of propyl significantly affects the cutting quality. With this tuning, the tooth cuts the material, and does not chop it, and also stabilizes the saw so that it is less vibrating in the process of cutting. Both of these factors make traces from the saw on the selection of chipboard less noticeable.

Place the saw along the edge of the chipboard, lift the guide and look from close range to install right depth Cutting. By the way, at the same time it would be nice to check the saw disk for damage, because it saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. Another point: the saw is arranged in such a way that her turn goes upwards, so the chips are most often formed on the surface of the chipboard, which is drawn up, and the cut side of the surface, which looks downwards. Consequently, place when cutting a chipboard of a good, front side down.

Tip 3: For longitudinal cutting, use a rigid long straight subject as a guide

As a guide to perform a smooth straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30 cm thick, which was cooked professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need is to pull it out of the clamp.

The main difficulty is to arrange it in right place For accurate cut. To do this, it is necessary to measure the distance from the edge of the saw reference platform to the disk (see photo below).

Add the value to the width of your slice, make marks to the chipboard from both edges and impose the guide board. You also need to take into account the thickness of the saw disk in its dimensions.

It is usually best that the metal reference plate of the disk saw to rest in the edge of the guide, so the maximum stability of the saw is achieved during cutting.

Tip 4: Check the guide before making a cut

This, so to speak, accurate setting. Make a pencil mark - a line with a length 5cm, thus determining the width of the cut part. Then start the saw, press the support platform saw to the guide and the track. Candle chipboard. Make sure that the saw disk began to rotate in the air, even before the leaf was touched, otherwise the edge of the sheet could be splitted. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the end to make sure that you have done and calculated correctly. Better, as they say, measure seven times ...

Tip 5: Draw at constant speed without stopping

Draw without stopping, and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, a trail will remain on chipboard or plywood.

The cutting speed depends on the set of factors, including the type of saw and the sharpness of the disk, as well as from the material that you cut. In general, the sharp disk passes through the sheet of chipboard with a small resistance, as if he smelves the tree. If you feel that you have to make efforts and push the saw, it means that either you saw too fast or disc is stupid. Too fast cutting River Fiber Chipboard and leaves noticeable traces on the cut. Too slow can cause disk overheating and wood ignition.

Then you will receive and celebrate and burning track on the cut. That is why it is best to cut on the floor when you make a long cut. You can crawl on your knees right through the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, you will not need to stretch or bend.

Just calculate in advance whether you will have the length of the electrical cable.

Tip 6: Take the disk with large quantity teeth

The more teeth on the disk, the clearer will be a cut. And, naturally, the disk should be sharp.

In principle, all the disks from the picture above are capable of making a good incision according to the chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, minus disk with 140 teeth is that it is quickly tupping than the other three types. Especially if you cut a chipboard. Take a disk with 40 or 56 teeth. And it is better to keep another about the reserve. Disk with 56 teeth is usually used for cutting.

Tip 7: The transverse section is best done using adhesive tape

The transverse incision is perpendicular to the fiber of plywood, and even the sharp blade easily leaves the chips. it a big problem, the best decision Which, buy a disc for cutting laminate, about which we wrote above. However, you can perform this task and using other discs. To do this, turn on both sides of the cut line of the adhesive tape. It will prevent the formation of chips.

It is necessary to delete it neatly, pull it in the direction perpendicular to the cut (see the photo below) so as not to damage the Laminating chipboard.

And one more advice is finally. If you need to cut out the dear material from the front side, stick the saw platform in the adhesive tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface.