Gas boiler aogv 9 3. How can you increase the draft in the heating boiler
Floor gas boilers AOGV-6.9; -9.3; -12.5 Thermolux has been heating houses all over Russia for many years. Affordable price and simplicity of design made this brand quite popular with many buyers with low incomes.
Today we will take a closer look the lineup and technical characteristics of boilers by "Termolux" Russian production on the basis of the operating instructions (passport) of this gas floor heating equipment. We will analyze the device and automatics of the device according to photo diagrams, prices, settings, as well as all malfunctions during operation gas boiler AOGV, methods of their elimination and repair.
The lineup
Gas boilers "Termolux" are produced in the city of Taganrog Rostov region... We can find several modifications on the market. Devices are produced as single-circuit and double-circuit - for heating running water, capable of operating not only on natural, but also on bottled gas. What models of boilers does the company produce? And there are several of them.
Gas floor-standing boilers"Thermolux"
Single-circuit floor gas boilers AOGV for heating:
- AOGV 6.9;
- AOGV 9.3;
- AOGV 11.6;
- AOGV 12.5;
- AOGV 15;
- AOGV 20.
The numbers in the name of a specific model of the device indicate the rated power of the boiler, it can be from 6.9 kW to 20 kW. Boilers "Thermolux" can heat private house or production room total area up to 200 m2. The most popular, judging by customer reviews, were the AOGV-6.9 and AOGV-9.3 models, designed for small house with an area of 50-80 m2.
Double-circuit gas boilers AKGV for heating and hot water supply:
- AKGV 12.5;
- AKGV 15;
- AKGV 20.
These models have a built-in steel heat exchanger to generate hot water for household needs... True, given the small capacity of the boilers, the productivity of the running water will be quite small: 4-7 liters per minute. But this is usually enough for kitchen needs, for example, washing hands or dishes.
The device of the gas boiler AOGV 6.9 and 9.3: automation
Like most outdoor gas appliances, boilers AOGV "Termolux" consist of a heat exchanger in which the coolant is heated, the main and ignition gas burner, automation and smoke extraction device. Let's take a closer look at the diagram internal features Taganrog apparatus:
1 - heat exchanger for heating water;
2 - gas cock;
3 - thermostat for automatic maintenance of the required coolant temperature;
4 - thermometer;
5 - door;
6 - frontal shield.
7 - thermal sensor with a fixing screw;
8 - lever attachment unit;
9 - damper;
10 - ignition burner;
11 - lever;
12 - valve with a button;
13 - air damper;
14 - air supply regulator;
15 - traction stabilizer;
16 - gas distributor.
Automation of the gas boiler AOGV "Termolux"
Setting up a gas boiler AOGV: instructions for the user
1. Adjust the chimney draft with the air damper.
2. Open the damper, press the valve button and light the igniter by bringing a lighted match to it.
3. Hold the button down until the lever moves back one third of its diameter.
4. Open the gas cock to transfer the flame to the main burner.
5. Adjust the air supply to the boiler using the air damper and air regulator.
By observing these rules, the flame on the main burner should be blue-blue, steady and continuous. Pops, hissing and the formation of soot should not be present during the operation of the boiler. It is recommended to periodically monitor the combustion process of gas and draft in the chimney.
The thermostat automatically maintains the preset temperature in the heating circuit of the boiler, smoothly changing the volume of gas supply to the main burner. To change the temperature, it is necessary to turn the adjusting screw in one direction or the other, but no more than half of its turn. The temperature can be checked periodically by reading the thermometer in the boiler.
When the set temperature is reached, the thermostat valve closes smoothly, transferring the operation of the gas burner to the “low flame” mode of reduced power. In the event of a temperature change, the thermostat will automatically adjust the gas supply to the burner, ensuring a constant temperature of water heating in the heating circuit.
If the area of the heated room is very small, the thermostat can completely cut off the gas supply to the main burner, while the igniter will always be on.
Technical characteristics of gas boilers AOGV "Termolux"
AOGV "Thermolux" boiler: technical characteristics
Advantages of the gas boiler AOGV "Termolux":
- simplicity of construction;
- low price for a boiler (from 12,000 rubles) and for spare parts;
- the minimum chimney diameter on the AOGV-6.9 and AOGV-9.3 models is only 100 mm;
- compactness.
Disadvantages of gas boilers AOGV "Termolux":
- outdated automation;
- quality of materials and components;
- lack of high-power devices in the range of boilers.
Malfunctions of gas boilers AOGV-6.9; -9.3; -12.5 and methods for their elimination
1. The main gas burner goes out or turns off.
There is insufficient vacuum in the chimney or it is clogged, which will require cleaning. Also check the thermostat setting, it may need to be repaired or replaced.
2. Smell of gas.
Check threaded connections by soaping them, you may also need to replace the gaskets.
3. The lever does not come off the valve button.
Adjust the position of this lever with the screw of its attachment point. Check the thermal sensor for deformation.
Gas boilers AOGV-6.9; -9.3; -12.5
4. The boiler does not heat water well, the temperature of the heat carrier is insufficient.
Adjust the thermostat correctly by turning the adjusting screw.
5. Long flame orange on the main burner.
Adjust the primary and secondary air supply to the main burner with the dampers. It is also necessary to check the draft in the chimney.
6. Poor circulation of the coolant: the water in the boiler is hot, and the batteries are cold.
Add coolant to the system, perhaps its amount is insufficient.
7. Main burner hiss.
Excessive chimney draft or excess air supply. Adjust the air flaps.
8. The water in the boiler is boiling.
With a small area of the room, the power of the boiler is not completely consumed. Open the choke and rods fully.
9. The boiler shuts down spontaneously.
There is no gas supply to the burner. Re-ignite the burner. Watching the video.
Gas boilers AOGV-6.9; -9.3; -12.5"Termolux" customer reviews are different. These devices are more focused on the unpretentious consumer who wants to buy a heating device with a minimum set of functions for little money. We reviewed the main technical characteristics and internal organization boilers AOGV according to the operating instructions, the model range, as well as their malfunctions and ways to eliminate these problems.
From this article you will find out what problems can arise in the automation of gas boilers, why it is not possible to ignite the igniter, because of which the boiler can turn off for no reason, and most importantly, we will figure out what actions must be taken to diagnose and eliminate this malfunction.
Owners of non-volatile gas boilers are probably familiar with the situation when, for some reason, they cannot ignite the boiler, or a lot of time is spent on ignition. In this case, the problem lies in the boiler automation.
Today, in domestic and imported gas equipment, the EUROSIT 630 gas valve is most often used. emergency completely shut off the gas supply to the burners. Further start-up of boilers with such automation is possible only manually. However, a real accident is not always the reason for the emergency shutdown of the boiler.
Let's try to figure it out on the example of the Zhitomir-3 boiler. From the automation, it provides protection against loss of flame on the igniter and violation of thrust.
Note: All gas hazardous work must be carried out exclusively by representatives of specialized organizations that have the appropriate permits. Therefore, this article is provided for informational purposes only. Also, this article will help control the work of the wizard and, possibly, save you from the need to purchase unnecessary spare parts.
Let's define what we will call ignition ignition. The EUROSIT 630 valve control knob allows switching the boiler into three main modes:
- disabled;
- ignition;
- temperature regulation (1-7).
To ignite the pilot burner (igniter), move the control knob to the “ignition” (spark) position, press it and use the piezo ignition button to ignite the pilot burner. Then the handle is held for several seconds (no more than 30) and released. The igniter should continue to burn. This is what we will call ignition ignition. If the igniter goes out, it is necessary to repeat the procedure several more times. If this does not help, you need to look for a malfunction.
At the moment of ignition of the igniter, the flame heats up the thermocouple, which in turn generates an EMF (approximately 25 mV for serviceable SIT thermocouples), which flows through the circuit of the sensor (s) of the automation to the solenoid valve.
By pressing the handle of the gas valve, we manually open the solenoid valve, supplying gas to the igniter, which, in the case of correct operation of the equipment, is held by the EMF generated by the thermocouple and remains in open position after releasing the handle. The thermocouple itself performs the function of protection against loss of flame at the igniter. The sensors in the circuit are normally closed and, when triggered, open their contacts, ensuring a complete shutdown of the boiler.
Preparation for work
To carry out work to identify and eliminate problems with ignition of the igniter, we need the following tool:
- open-end wrenches No. 9, 10, 12;
- pliers;
- multimeter;
- flat-head screwdriver;
- alcohol.
Getting Started
To determine the cause of the malfunction, check the thermocouple circuit - the solenoid valve. First, we check the thrust sensor. In this boiler, it is located on the flue. To do this, remove two terminals from the sensor.
We close the two terminals together, they must connect tightly (for this, you can squeeze them a little with pliers).
Trying to ignite the igniter. If it was possible to do this, the cause of the malfunction is in the traction sensor. However, do not rush to change it. Let's check it first.
Note: in this work, we dismantle the sensor in order to show the features of its installation on the boiler and the marking. It is not necessary to do this for verification.
Unscrew the two screws securing the draft sensor to the boiler flue.
Please note that the sensor is not attached close to the flue housing, but is mounted on paronite gaskets. This is necessary in order to reduce the heating of the sensor through its contact with the body, as well as to provide a gap between the hole in the gas duct and the plane of the sensor.
We examine the sensor. Its contacts must hold firmly to the case. They should be free of oxidation. Sensor rating (temperature at which the sensor contact opens) in this case 75 ° C (designation on the L75C case).
We check the thrust sensor with a tester, measuring its resistance. It should be minimal (equal to the resistance of the probes) - 1-2 ohms. If the sensor does not ring, it is definitely necessary to replace it with a similar one (with an appropriate response temperature).
If it is possible to ring the sensor, wipe the sensor contacts and circuit terminals with alcohol, squeeze them with pliers and dry them. We mount the sensor in place and connect it. We are trying to fire up.
If the ignition was successful, the cause of the malfunction was found and eliminated.
It is imperative to check the draft after igniting the main burner. To do this, you can bring your hand to the place where the traction sensor is installed. No heat should come out of this hole. If this happens, it is necessary to eliminate the cause of the lack of traction. The sensor then responds correctly.
Attention! It is strictly forbidden to operate the boiler with a faulty chimney!
We remove the terminals from the traction breaker contacts and measure the resistance of the circuit. It should be no more than 3 ohms.
If this condition is met, we perform the following actions. Using the No. 9 wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the thermocouple to the chopper. Using the key No. 12, unscrew the traction chopper by half a turn, which consists of two parts: a brass sleeve and a plastic insert.
Take out plastic insert with contacts and unscrew the part completely.
Checking the thermocouple. We connect it directly to the solenoid valve (the place where the traction interrupter was installed). We fix it with key number 9.
We fire up the igniter. If it fails, the cause of the malfunction is most likely in the thermocouple. The solenoid valve rarely fails.
Let's examine the thermocouple. In some cases, the thermocouple can be repaired. It happens that the contact of the thermocouple disappears. This is not a reason for replacement, it is enough to solder it.
It is important that the dielectric spacer is intact.
Make sure the thermocouple is properly seated in the pilot flame. The tip of the thermocouple must be immersed in the flame.
To adjust the position of the thermocouple relative to the pilot flame, loosen the nut that secures the thermocouple to the pilot burner with a wrench # 10. Moving the thermocouple, it is necessary to set it in the correct position and fix it with key # 10.
To make the final verdict on the replacement, you can measure the EMF generated by the thermocouple. To do this, it is necessary to ignite the igniter, and, keeping the valve handle pressed, measure the EMF between the contact of the thermocouple and its body. The optimum value should be at least 18 mV. If the thermocouple is working properly, clean the traction interrupter parts with alcohol, and also wipe the thermocouple contact. Especially if you had to solder it.
We assemble the traction interrupter in reverse order, connect the thermocouple to it. Do not crimp the parts too much. Effort must be sufficient to ensure reliable contact. We crimp the terminals with pliers and, wiping them with alcohol, try to ignite.
Performing all of the above operations will surely help you troubleshoot your boiler.
Another reason for problems with ignition can be insufficient gas pressure at the igniter. This is due to a clogged nozzle. To clean it, you need to loosen the fastening nut with a wrench No. 10 copper tube igniter and remove the jet.
Advice: you can tap the igniter lightly to make it easier to remove the jet.
We clean the hole of the nozzle residential copper wire... No oversizing of the hole is allowed!
At the moments of the most intensive gas consumption, the pressure in the central main pipe may drop. Accordingly, the gas pressure at the igniter can also decrease. This may require adjusting the gas pressure at the igniter. Unscrew the fastening screw decorative overlays and remove it.
Adjustment is made by turning the screw on the valve. Turning it counterclockwise increases the gas pressure at the pilot.
These tips will help you sort out your boiler's firing problems. In practice, the most common problems are with the contacts, not with the sensors. Therefore, if each time you ignite the igniter you have to hold the valve handle longer and longer, we advise you to simply clean the contacts and tighten the automatic terminals. In order to avoid real problems with the automatic operation, we recommend that you clean the boiler in time.
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Gasification of Russian settlements has been going on at a rather intensive rate recently. The main element of the equipment that is installed in each rural house, is a gas boiler, the author of this material shares his experience in repairing the automation of the gas boiler AOGV - 17.4-3, which is popular in rural areas, produced by the Zhukovsky Mechanical Plant.
Purpose and description of the main units of AOGV - 17.3-3.
Appearance heating gas boiler AOGV - 17.3-3 is shown on rice. 1, and its main parameters are given in the table.
| Parameter | Meaning |
| Dimensions (H × W × D), mm | 1050 × 420 × 480 |
| Weight, kg | 49 |
| Nominal thermal power, kW | 17,4 |
| Heated area, m 2 (no more) | 140 |
| Type of fuel | natural / liquefied gas |
| Fuel consumption, m 3 / h, (kg / h) | 1,87 (1,3) |
| Hot water consumption at 35 о С | 5,4 |
| Chimney diameter, mm | 135 |
| Nominal gas pressure, Pa | 1274 |
| Minimum gas pressure, Pa | 635 |
| Combustion products removal | natural cravings |
| Burner type | atmospheric |
| Heat exchanger material | steel |
| Installation type | outdoor |
| Automation type | electrically independent |
The device of the gas boiler AOGV - 17.3-3
Its main elements are shown in rice. 2 ... The numbers in the figure indicate: 1 -type breaker; 2 - thrust sensor; 3 -wire of the traction sensor; 4 -start button; 5 -door; 6 - gas solenoid valve; 7 -adjusting nut; 8 -tap; 9 -storage tank; 10 -burner; 11 -thermocouple; 12 - igniter; 13 -thermorigulator; 14 -base; 15 - water supply pipe; 16 -heat exchanger; 17 -turbulator; 18 - bellows assembly; 19 -water drainage pipe; 20 -door traction interrupter; 21 -thermometer; 22 -filter; 23 -cap.
The boiler is made in the form of a cylindrical tank. On front side controls are located, which are closed with a protective cover. Gas valve 6 (fig. 2) consists of an electromagnet and a valve. The valve is used to control the gas supply to the igniter and burner. In the event of an emergency, the valve automatically shuts off the gas. Traction breaker 1 serves to automatically maintain the vacuum value in the boiler furnace when measuring the draft in the chimney. For its normal operation, the door 20 should freely, without jamming, rotate on the axis. Thermostat 13 designed to maintain a constant water temperature in the tank.
The automation device is shown in rice. 3 ... Let us dwell in more detail on the meaning of its elements. Gas passing through a purification filter 2, 9 (fig. 3) enters the solenoid gas valve 1 ... To valve using union nuts 3, 5 traction temperature sensors are connected. The ignition is ignited when the start button is pressed 4 ... On the body of the thermostat 6 there is a setting scale 9 ... Its divisions are graduated in degrees Celsius.
The value of the desired water temperature in the boiler is set by the user using the adjusting nut 10 ... Rotation of the nut leads to linear movement of the bellows. 11 and stock 7 ... The thermostat consists of a bellows-thermoballoon assembly installed inside the tank, as well as a system of levers and a valve located in the thermostat housing. When the water heats up to the temperature indicated on the dial, the thermostat is triggered, and the gas supply to the burner stops, while the igniter continues to work. When the water in the boiler has cooled down for 10 ... 15 degrees, gas supply will resume. The burner ignites from the pilot flame. During the operation of the boiler, it is strictly forbidden to adjust (reduce) the temperature with a nut. 10 - this could damage the bellows. It is possible to reduce the temperature at the setpoint only after the water in the tank has cooled down to 30 degrees. It is forbidden to set the temperature on the sensor above 90 degrees - this will trigger the automatic device and turn off the gas supply. The appearance of the thermostat is shown in (fig. 4) .
How the gas boiler AOGV turns on
Actually, the procedure for turning on the device is quite simple, and besides, it is described in the operating instructions. And yet, consider a similar operation with a few comments:
- open the inlet gas supply valve (the valve handle should be directed along the pipe);
- press and hold the start button. At the bottom of the boiler, a hiss of escaping gas will be heard from the pilot nozzle. Then ignite the igniter and after 40 ... 60 and release the button. This time delay is necessary to warm up the thermocouple. If the boiler has not been in operation for a long time, the igniter should be ignited 20.30 s after pressing the start button. During this time, the igniter will be filled with gas, displacing the air.
Possible malfunctions of the AOGV gas boiler
After releasing the start button, the igniter goes out. A similar defect is associated with a malfunction of the boiler automation system. Note that it is strictly forbidden to operate the boiler with the automatics turned off (for example, if you forcibly jam the start button in the pressed state). This can lead to tragic consequences, since with a short-term interruption of the gas supply or when the flame is extinguished by a strong air flow, the gas will begin to flow into the room.
To understand the causes of such a defect, let's take a closer look at the operation of the automation system. In fig. 5 shows a simplified diagram of this system.
The circuit consists of an electromagnet, a valve, a draft sensor and a thermocouple. To turn on the igniter, press the start button. The stem connected to the button presses on the valve membrane, and the gas begins to flow to the igniter. After that, the igniter is ignited.
The pilot flame touches the temperature sensor housing (thermocouple). After some time (30 ... 40 s), the thermocouple heats up and an EMF appears at its terminals, which is enough for the electromagnet to operate. The latter, in turn, fixes the stem in the lower (as in Fig. 5) position. The trigger can now be released.
The thrust sensor consists of a bimetallic plate and a contact (fig. 6). The sensor is located in the upper part of the boiler, near the flue gas outlet pipe to the atmosphere. In the event of a pipe blockage, its temperature rises sharply. The bimetallic plate heats up and breaks the voltage supply circuit to the electromagnet - the rod is no longer held by the electromagnet, the valve closes and the gas supply stops.
The arrangement of the elements of the automation device is shown in Fig. 7. It shows that the electromagnet is covered with a protective cap. The wires from the sensors are located inside the thin-walled tubes. The tubes are attached to the electromagnet using union nuts. The body terminals of the sensors are connected to the electromagnet through the body of the tubes themselves.
Consider the technique for finding the above malfunction
Checking when repairing a gas boiler start with the "weakest link" of the automation device - the thrust sensor. The sensor is not protected by a casing, therefore, after 6 ... 12 months of operation, it becomes "overgrown" with a thick layer of dust. Bimetal plate (see fig. 6) quickly oxidizes, which leads to poor contact.
Remove the dust coat with a soft brush. Then the plate is pulled away from the contact and cleaned with a fine sandpaper... It should not be forgotten that the contact itself must be cleared. Nice results provides cleaning of the specified elements with a special spray "Contact". It contains substances that actively destroy the oxide film. After cleaning, a thin layer of liquid lubricant is applied to the plate and contact.
The next step is to check the integrity of the thermocouple. She works hard thermal regime, since it is constantly in the igniter flame, naturally, its service life is much less than the rest of the boiler elements.
The main defect of a thermocouple is burnout (destruction) of its body. In this case, the transient resistance at the place of welding (junction) sharply increases. As a result, the current in the Thermocouple - Electromagnet circuit.
The bimetallic plate will be below the nominal value, which leads to the fact that the electromagnet can no longer fix the rod (fig. 5)
.
How to check the thermocouple of the AOGV boiler
To check the thermocouple, unscrew the union nut (fig. 7) located on the left side of the electromagnet. Then they turn on the igniter and measure the constant voltage (thermo-EMF) at the thermocouple contacts with a voltmeter (fig. 8) ... A heated, serviceable thermocouple generates an EMF of about 25 ... 30 mV. If this value is less, the thermocouple is faulty. For its final check, the tube is undocked from the electromagnet casing and the resistance of the thermocouple is measured. The resistance of the heated thermocouple is less than 1 Ohm. If the resistance of the thermocouple is hundreds of ohms or more, it must be replaced. The appearance of a thermocouple that has failed as a result of burnout is shown in rice. nine ... The price of a new thermocouple (complete with a tube and a nut) is about 300 rubles. It is better to purchase them in a store at the manufacturer's factory or use the services of an authorized service center... The fact is that the manufacturer is constantly improving its products. This is reflected in the parameters of the parts self-made... For example, in the AOGV-17.4-3 boiler of the Zhukovsky plant, since 1996, the length of the thermocouple line has been increased by about 5 cm (that is, similar parts produced before or after 1996 are not interchangeable). This kind of information can only be obtained from a store (authorized service center).
A low value of thermo-EMF generated by a thermocouple can be caused by the following reasons:
- clogging of the ignition nozzle (as a result, the heating temperature of the thermocouple may be lower than the nominal). "Treat" a similar defect by cleaning the pilot hole with any soft wire of a suitable diameter;
- by shifting the position of the thermocouple (naturally, it may not heat up enough either). Eliminate the defect as follows - loosen the screw that secures the liner near the igniter and adjust the position of the thermocouple (Figure 10);
- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.
If the EMF at the terminals of the thermocouple is normal (while maintaining the signs of malfunction indicated above), then the following elements are checked:
- the integrity of the contacts at the connection points of the thermocouple and the draft sensor.
Oxidized contacts must be cleaned. The union nuts are tightened, as they say, "by hand". In this case wrench it is undesirable to use, since you can easily break the wires suitable for the contacts;
- the integrity of the electromagnet winding and, if necessary, solder its conclusions.
The performance of the electromagnet can be checked as follows. Disconnect the thermocouple lead. Press and hold the start button, then ignite the igniter. From a separate source of constant voltage to the vacated contact of the electromagnet (from the thermocouple), a voltage of about 1 V is applied relative to the case (at a current of up to 2 A). To do this, you can also use a regular battery (1.5 V), the main thing is that it provides the required operating current. The button can now be released. If the igniter is not extinguished, the electromagnet and the thrust sensor are in good working order;
- thrust sensor
First, the force of pressing the contact to the bimetallic plate is checked (with the indicated signs of malfunction, it is often insufficient). To increase the clamping force, release the lock nut and move the contact closer to the plate, then tighten the nut. In this case, no additional adjustments not required - the pressure force does not affect the temperature at which the sensor is triggered. The sensor has a large margin for the angle of deflection of the plate, ensuring reliable breaking of the electrical circuit in the event of an accident.
It is not possible to ignite the igniter - the flame flares up and immediately goes out.
There may be the following possible reasons a similar defect:
- closed or faulty gas valve at the boiler inlet,
- the hole in the ignition nozzle is clogged, in this case it is enough to clean the nozzle hole with a soft wire;
- the pilot flame is blown out due to the strong air draft;
The gas supply is cut off when the boiler is in operation:
- actuation of the draft sensor due to blockage of the chimney, in this case it is necessary to check and clean the chimney;
- the electromagnet is faulty, in this case the electromagnet is checked according to the above method;
- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.
If your gas boiler goes out and blows out, then you should study a number of reasons that can cause this problem, and then take the necessary measures as soon as possible to stabilize and resume normal boiler operation.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the eight main causes of these problems and their solutions.
Gas boiler wick
The wick burns weakly for two reasons: either it is clogged and needs to be cleaned, or you weak pressure at the entrance. If you have a home-based regulator, be sure to check its settings. You may need to increase the inlet pressure, as it fluctuates constantly due to the fact that gas consumption is different at different times.
Accordingly, in heating season when the gas boilers are running, the gas consumption is higher and the inlet pressure also drops. And the regulator, as far as you know, maintains a certain differential between the inlet pressure and the outlet pressure. Accordingly, this differential also falls, because of this, your wick may burn weaker. Check the regulator setting and also clean the wick.
2. The flame control sensor is out of order
Thermocouple
This is the next reason why a gas boiler can go out. The control sensor is different in different boilers. In most domestic boilers, this is a thermocouple. The thermocouple should be constantly on fire, just like the ionization electrode and photocell should always detect the flame on your burner. If the thermocouple is in a worn-out condition, then in any weak wind blowing, when your wick deviates quite a bit from this thermocouple, it immediately knocks out the automation and the gas boiler fizzles out.
If you have this ionization electrode, a similar situation occurs. Ionization electrodes are usually installed in volatile double-circuit boilers that are hung on the wall. Photo sensors are installed in boilers of higher power. But this is already, in principle, an industrial type of boilers, which is quite rare in ordinary houses.
3. Poor chimney draft
This suggests that you either got some kind of garbage there, or some brick has fallen off, or a bird flying by, inhaling carbon monoxide coming out of the chimney turned out to be disoriented in space and fell straight into your cauldron, or a spider could settle there and the web created by it confused the entire chimney. Accordingly, the chimney must be cleaned in order to improve draft. There will be good traction and the wick will not go out. If the gas boiler goes out, then this is one of the most common solutions.
4. One-story building or top floor
In this case, it is easiest for the wind to get into your boiler. In order to avoid attenuation of the wick in a gas boiler with such a chimney device, it is necessary to protect the chimney head, that is, to put special protective devices - washers.
Please note that umbrella-shaped visors, which may be found on certain houses, are strictly prohibited according to gas supply safety rules. This is due to the fact that in the process of snow melting, the resulting water immediately begins to gradually drain and form icicles on the burning chimney. Thus, the chimney can be completely blocked. Therefore, put the washers. They seem to stand around the head of the chimney and thus protect it from the wind.
Another way to protect yourself from attenuation and blowing out of a gas boiler with such a problem is to increase the number of turns of the chimney. If your chimney leaves the boiler and immediately into the wall, respectively, to get there to the wind, it is enough to overcome only one turn. That is, the place where your chimney and boiler dock.
If you increase the number of turns in your boiler, it will be much more difficult for the wind to get to your gas boiler and the likelihood of blowing out will be less.
5. Insufficient supply ventilation or lack of a ventilation duct
When burning one cubic meter of gas, ten cubic meters of air are burned. Accordingly, in most cases at home household boilers if it is not a turbine type of coxial tube boilers, room air is used.
And, accordingly, if you have insufficient supply ventilation: the door is not cut, or holes are not made, and your room is permanently closed, there is not enough air supply for the boiler to burn.
Or ventilation duct you may not have it, or it may simply be clogged with you. Again, you need to either clean the ventilation duct, or provide air flow from below. It is needed in order to burn required amount air in the room and your gas boiler did not go out. If you don’t have supply ventilation, or there is no draft in the ventilation duct, then the boiler will start burning air from the room. When all the air in the room is burned, it will begin to draw air from the street through the chimney. Thus, reverse thrust is formed. A certain draft is formed and this draft can blow out your boiler.
6. Pilot Burner Safety Circuit Problem
The safety circuit is mainly represented by either a traction sensor or a limit thermostat - special devices that are able to detect any problems in time.
All protective equipment located there must be checked. Often, these contacts are all sour and they need to be well cleaned. If you have sour contacts somewhere, there will be no interaction. In the absence of contact, when you try to light the wick, you will simply knock out the automation.
If the wick of the gas boiler deviates slightly from your ionization electrode or thermocouple, then the voltage that remains on your sensor, its value may simply not be enough to keep the valve open and the wick goes out. Therefore, it is imperative to check the safety circuit contacts of your boiler. These are a draft sensor, a limit thermostat, and a thermocouple.
7. The chimney is located in the area of the wind support
Wind support zone
What is a wind support zone? In fact, this seemingly complex concept can be explained quite simply and clearly. If there is a tall building or tree next to your chimney, then the wind support zone is a line that can be drawn from this nearby building, or tree, towards your chimney.
That is, we draw a line from the building towards your chimney, visually 45 degrees, and your chimney should be half a meter above this imaginary line. If your chimney is lower, then turbulence may form in your chimney and the boiler will go out.
According to the safety rules for gas supply, the chimney must be outside the wind support zone. And given the fact that these rules were invented for a reason, it is worth following them.
8. Incorrect location of the gas boiler in the room
The location of the gas boiler in the room also plays important role... In some cases, such situations were observed when, for example, the boiler is in the kitchen, which in turn is located somewhere on the second or third floor of the building and this kitchen has a balcony.
So what's going on? People open the balcony door, the draft in the chimney is excellent and ... What happens? At first we had some kind of air flow from the corridor or from neighboring rooms when opening the kitchen door and the draft was more or less stable. And then, with a sharp opening of the balcony, what happens? Great amount fresh cold air enters the kitchen and a very sharp strong draft is formed in the chimney.
The amount of air increases and hot air begins to go into the chimney with an even greater speed. Thus, the wick literally starts to hesitate, to walk. That is, it can simply either be blown off, or, if there are bad contacts of the safety circuit, or worn out sensors. This can also cause your boiler to go out.
It should be noted that the above reasons are the most common problems. There may be special cases when the cause of the fading and blowing out of the gas boiler can only be determined by a specialist as a result of a thorough examination.
Only one thing is important - observe the safety rules for gas supply and comply with the standards prescribed there.