Today we will tell you about the cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that you have to deal with in woodworking is dust removal. Industrial equipment quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it's completely simple.

What is a cyclone and why is it needed

In the workshop, there is almost always a need to remove garbage of a sufficiently large fraction. sawdust, small scraps, metal shavings- all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular filter of a vacuum cleaner, but with a high probability it will quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to remove liquid waste.

The cyclone filter uses an aerodynamic swirl to bind the specks different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the garbage manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at a sufficient speed.

Such filters are included in the kit of many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost cannot be called affordable for the layman. At the same time, the range of tasks solved with the help of home-made devices is not at all narrower. A handicraft cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planers, perforators or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or chips from different kind machine tools. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.

Difference Between Wet and Dry Cyclone

To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the tank does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust port. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the tank or tangentially to the walls. The exhaust channel, according to a similar principle, is recommended to be made rotatable, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. Rostom aerodynamic drag can be neglected due to pipe bends.

As already mentioned, cyclone filter potentially capable of removing liquid waste. With a liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and the cyclone is partially rarefied, which contributes to the evaporation of moisture and its breakdown into very small drops. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.

In most washing vacuum cleaners, air is supplied to the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.

We make from improvised materials

The most simple and affordable option for the capacity of the cyclone there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 watts.

The bucket lid must be intact and hermetically put on the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be finalized by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes of the desired diameter is to use a homemade compass. V wooden lath you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.

The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, it is desirable that they be as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic scratch excellently in this way. homemade tool, forming even edges with virtually no scoring.

The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. In advance, we draw your attention to the fact that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The knee is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is pre-applied under the side.
2. On the reverse side, a rubber sealing ring is pulled with force onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.

The inlet pipe is located with a narrow turning part inside the bucket, the socket is located with outside almost flush with the lid. The knee must be provided with another turn at 45º and directed obliquely down and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is manufactured with the expectation of wet cleaning, you should increase the extreme elbow by cutting the pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.

The exhaust pipe is located in the opposite position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one knee into it so that the air intake occurs at the wall or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Do not forget about the o-rings, for more reliable fixation and to prevent turning of the knees, they can be wrapped with plumbing tape.

How to adapt the device for machines and tools

To be able to draw in waste when working with hand and stationary tools, a system of adapters is required. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the nozzles for power tool dust bags. In extreme cases, you can seal the connection with several layers. double sided tape for mirrors, wrapped with vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.

With stationary equipment, everything is more complicated. Dust vents have a very different configuration, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:

1. If the dust extraction of the machine is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a diameter of 50 mm to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
2. For docking with a dust trap of home-made machines, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
3. When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, use the convection flow created by the moving parts of the tool for greater efficiency. For example: a branch pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be tangential to the saw blade.
4. Sometimes it is required to provide dust extraction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a cutter. Use 50mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.

Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use

Usually a vacuum cleaner makeshift cyclone do not choose independently, but use the one that is available. However, there are a number of limitations in addition to the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.

The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally fit the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, a shorter segment must be joined to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer section, in this form, is refueled into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or sanitary duct tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially with the o-ring.

In the video, another example of the manufacture of a cyclone for dust removal in the workshop

To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the extreme part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it in. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly on the pipe, it is recommended to warm it up a little with a hair dryer or an indirect flame. gas burner. The latter is considered great option, because in this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving stream.

Cyclone-type plants are used in industry for the purification of gases and liquids. The principle of the filter is based on the physical laws of inertia and gravity. Air (water) is sucked out of the device through the upper part of the filter. A vortex flow is created in the filter. As a result, the contaminated product enters the filter through the nozzle located on the side of the upper part. Since the debris particles are heavier, they settle at the bottom of the filter, and the cleaned product is discharged through the top. It is such a filter, made for the workshop, that we will consider today together with the author of the homemade product.

Tools and materials:
Waste bin 76 l;
Plywood;
Polycarbonate;
plastic pipe;
Coupling;
fasteners;
Masking tape:
Manual frezer;
Electric jigsaw;
Drill;
Glue gun;
band saw machine;
Sander.

Then from the lid, using band saw machine, cut out a circle with a diameter of 40 cm.

The place of the cut is glued, polished.

In a circle with a diameter of 40 cm, which remained from cutting out the bottom cover, cut out the middle according to the diameter of the plastic pipe. This blank will be installed at the top of the device.

For the side wall, the author used transparent polycarbonate. This will allow you to control the operation of the filter and the filling of the trash can. Having rolled up a polycarbonate cylinder, inserted it into the inner hole of the bottom cover. Marked and cut along the joint. I received a cylinder with a diameter of 40 cm and a height of 15 cm.

Inserting a polycarbonate cylinder into the inner ring of the bottom cover, drill holes in 10 cm increments. Fixes the cylinder with self-tapping screws. Whatever crush the polycarbonate, the lower part of the screws must be flat.

The top cover is inserted into the other part of the cylinder. Fixes with tape. Having drilled holes, fastens the polycarbonate with self-tapping screws.

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For the inlet and outlet, the author used a plastic pipe with a diameter of 7.6 cm, as well as two couplings for it.
First, make an inlet. Cuts off a piece of 23 cm from the pipe. Cuts the coupling in half. Cuts out a rectangle from plywood with sides 12.5 and 15 cm. Cuts a hole 8.9 cm in the middle ( outside diameter couplings). Having inserted a pipe into the hole, it fixes it with a coupling on both sides. Seals the seam with hot glue.

A cut piece measuring 12.5 by 20 cm is screwed to the side wall of the rectangle (12.5 cm).

Then the author cuts the pipe and plywood in such a way that the curvature of the cut coincides with the curvature of the cylinder.
1

Having attached the structure to the installation site, he makes measurements for the manufacture of a vertical support. Cut it out and attach it to the body. Fastens where the seam of the cylinder goes, thus closing it.

Marks on the polycarbonate the location of the inlet cutout. Cut it out with a drill.

Installs the inlet pipe into the hole, fixes it. The seam is sealed with hot glue.

Next, he makes an outlet pipe. Cuts off a piece of pipe 15 cm. Inserts it into the hole in the top cover. Fits a clutch on both sides. Treated with hot glue.

The author made the lower screen from MDF. Screen size 46 cm in diameter, thickness 3 mm. At a distance of 5 cm from the edge draws a circle. Measures an angle of 120 degrees. Trims the strip between the sides of the corner. Screws the screen to the bottom cover in such a way that the cutout starts immediately after the inlet pipe.

Process machining wood blanks is always accompanied by the release of dust or scattering of chips and sawdust. In modern power tools, it is possible to connect any installations for collecting and discharging wood waste, but their acquisition for domestic needs is not always justified. At the home level, it successfully copes with the problem of dust removal homemade device. Let us consider in detail the procedure for manufacturing a vacuum cleaner for a workshop.

Necessary materials and tools

The basis for the implementation of the project is an old household vacuum cleaner, from which the following components are used:
motor part;
Power regulator;
Power wire;
suction hose;
Nozzles.

For the homemade case, a polyethylene barrel with a capacity of 50–80 liters is selected, always with a fixed lid. You will also need:
piece of plastic sewer pipe diameter 50 mm;
Plywood 5–10 mm thick;
Bolts and nuts M6 - 14 pieces each;
Strip of galvanized sheet;
Air filter from a minibus;
220 Volt switch;
Threaded stud with washers and nuts;
Construction sealant;
Sandpaper;
Glue sticks;
drain corrugated hose for washing machine;
Electrical corrugation PND 32.

Docking nodes are made of plastic tubes and fittings, selected depending on the size of the nozzles on the tools and the diameters of the suction hoses of the vacuum cleaner. The list of tools used:
Glue gun;
Drill;
Locksmith keys;
Screwdrivers;
wire cutters;
Electric jigsaw;
Sharp knife;
Files;
Sealant gun.

Workshop vacuum cleaner manufacturing process
Stepping back from the top about 100 mm, a hole is marked on the wall of the barrel for the inlet pipe and drilled with a drill. Then, with a knife, the hole is oval-shaped so that the inner end of the pipe is placed close to the wall and directed downward at a slight angle. Degrease the surfaces to be joined and, using glue gun, fix the pipe in place.

In the same "hot" way, an adapter for the suction hose is fixed on the outer part of the pipe.

With a jigsaw, two circles are cut out of plywood with a diameter slightly smaller than that of the barrel lid. First, two holes are made in the blanks for the bolts and the parts are fixed with them on both sides of the cover. Next, drill the rest of the holes, remove the circles and remove the burrs with a sandpaper. Sealant is applied around the perimeter of the blanks, the parts are placed on the lid and the fasteners are fully installed. In the center of the plywood circles, a hole is made for the stud, and a little to the side - for the air intake by the motor unit.

Remove from the air filter with wire cutters. metal mesh, otherwise it will become clogged with sawdust and interfere with the cleaning of the vacuum cleaner. One end of the cylinder is closed with a plywood plug.

The prepared filter element is fixed on the stud with a wing nut.

The motor part, as a rule, has a round shape. Therefore, for ease of installation, plastic parts in which the engine was located are cut out from the body of the old vacuum cleaner. Thanks to them, to fix the unit on the lid of the barrel, you only need one clamp, made from a strip of tin.

A switch and a power regulator are placed next to the engine, placing the latter in a suitable box. It remains to connect the elements together with wires and connect the cable with a plug. After making sure that the connections are correct and that there are no exposed contacts, they supply power and check the operation of the device.

The standard suction hose of a household vacuum cleaner is too short - it is extended with a corrugated pipe for wiring or other similar product.

Manufacture of nozzles and adapters

Cleanliness in the workshop begins with a workbench. To clean the workplace, a standard brush is used, which comes with the household appliance.

The nozzle is connected by means of a rubber adapter cut off from a tube of the appropriate caliber, for example, from the branch pipe of the car's cooling system.

One of the most littering power tools is an electric planer. The ejection fitting of the tool is large enough, most likely, the hose of the vacuum cleaner will be connected without problems.

The design does not provide for a filling sensor - at first you should look inside more often, preventing the vacuum cleaner from overflowing.

Cleanliness and order in the home workshop is the result of do-it-yourself work, achieved with a minimum of cash investment.

Recently, I have become interested in working with wood and the question of removing chips and sawdust has become very acute. So far, the issue of cleaning the workplace is being solved with a home vacuum cleaner, but it quickly clogs and stops sucking. You have to shake out the bag often. In search of a solution to the problem, I reviewed many pages on the Internet and found something. As it turned out, quite workable dust collectors can be made from improvised materials.

Mini vacuum cleaner from a plastic bottle

Here is another mini venturi vacuum cleaner idea
such a vacuum cleaner works from forced air.

Venturi effect

The Venturi effect is the drop in pressure when a liquid or gas flows through a constricted portion of a pipe. This effect is named after the Italian physicist Giovanni Venturi (1746–1822).

Rationale

The Venturi effect is a consequence of the Bernoulli law, which corresponds to the Bernoulli equation, which determines the relationship between the speed v liquid, pressure p in it and height h, on which the considered fluid element is located, above the reference level:

where is the density of the liquid, and is the free fall acceleration.

If the Bernoulli equation is written for two flow sections, then we will have:

For horizontal flow, the middle terms on the left and right parts the equations are equal to each other, and therefore cancel, and the equality takes the form:

that is, with a steady horizontal flow of an ideal incompressible fluid in each of its sections, the sum of the piezometric and dynamic pressures will be constant. To fulfill this condition, in those places of the flow where the average fluid velocity is higher (that is, in narrow sections), its dynamic head increases, and the hydrostatic head decreases (and hence the pressure decreases).

Application
The Venturi effect is observed or used in the following objects:

• in hydraulic jet pumps, in particular in tankers for products of the oil and chemical industries;
• in burners that mix air and combustible gases in the grill, gas stove, Bunsen burner and airbrushes;
• in Venturi tubes - narrowing elements of Venturi flowmeters;
• in Venturi flowmeters;
• in water aspirators of the ejector type, which create small vacuums using the kinetic energy of tap water;
• atomizers (sprayers) for spraying paint, water or air aromatization.
• carburetors, where the Venturi effect is used to draw gasoline into the inlet air stream of an internal combustion engine;
• in automated swimming pool cleaners that use water pressure to pick up sediment and debris;
• in oxygen masks for oxygen therapy, etc.

And now let's look at the samples that can take their rightful place in the workshop.

Ideally, I would like to get something similar to a cyclone filter, but from improvised materials:

Homemade chip separator.

The principle is the same, but made much simpler:

But this option I liked the most, as it is a reduced analogue of an industrial cyclone:

ch1

Insofar as traffic cone I don’t have it, so I decided to stop at this design, assembled from plastic pipes for sewerage. A definite plus is the availability and cheapness of the material for assembling the structure:

Homemade cyclone from plastic sewer pipes

Please pay attention to the mistake that the master made. The garbage collection pipe should be located like this:

In this case, the desired vortex will be created.
The following video shows a similar design in action:

And finally, a slightly modified version:

If large and relatively large pieces of construction debris are well transferred from the floor into bags, then construction dust— is the scourge of repair.

We turn our attention to the offers on the market of vacuum cleaners: from 6000 r.

Hmm, since it is not yet known if there will be more orders for repairs after this is completed, then the investment in a vacuum cleaner may not pay off. We shift our gaze to homemade products. Google. The principle of the cyclone filter has been known for a long time, we are studying the best practices of its independent production. There are very good designs, but difficult to manufacture. All the same, you need a vacuum cleaner quickly, there is no time for a long fuss with it. But the general trend is clear: standard vacuum cleaner + car filter + barrel. In the bins there is a quite worthy copy of the vacuum cleaner (priceless) An air filter from a Gazelle is bought in auto parts (180 r) A barrel is taken in a building supermarket (I had to run around different ones to find a suitable one and at an unclouded price. 500 r.)

After buying the barrel, I understand that it is essentially square. Let there be rounded corners, but a classic cyclone may not work. Okay, I'll rely on the filter from the Gazelle.

You can start. The hole in the cover has already been drilled, the nozzles of the required diameters have also been found.

First I figure out how to attach the filter to the lid. A very successful hole in it encourages the idea to use it. Firstly, a quick-release mount, and secondly, it still had to be closed with something. I cut out petals from tin (here Mercedes should fork off some money for advertising)

And I make such a central screed.

The filter is on.

First layout example.

A piece of pipe tangentially and slightly down. We see such a clean barrel for the last time.

Cover for the filter. The shape repeats the expected flow of sandblasting (by the way, the topic, we should hang some detail here, see if it will be sanded) It is necessary so that the dust does not immediately crash into the filter.

Guess what's on the filter?

Pioneers advise to put a woman's stocking on the filter to prevent large pieces of dirt from clogging the filter. The filter diameter is really big. Barely pulled, tore. In short, it works out its only partially.

The first test launches showed that the barrel is not rigid enough, the suction force is greater and therefore the barrel is distorted, especially when the mud flow is dense. You need to strengthen the sides.

I thought about it, realized that embedding the shell inside is difficult and will worsen the already not ideal aerodynamics inside. Therefore, I make a shell on the outside. 25 mm strip bent on my bending machine. Consists of two halves - for ease of installation. Fastened from the inside with screws with large washers.

There was less shrinkage.

4 swivel wheels are attached to the frame (they were lying around in the country).

And the final marriage of components.

Cunning quick-detachable system of fastening of a barrel on ropes. This is the best thing that came to mind.

And of course the ship product needs a name. As you call it, so it will float.

My DIY construction vacuum cleaner is called Veterok-M.

Handsome!

And it works like a beast. Already working hard at the facility.

The cost of the product is 680 r + several working hours. If there is no vacuum cleaner lying around, then the budget will increase by 1000 r (this is how lucky you are with buying a used one). But in any case, it is much better (by an order of magnitude) than ready-made vacuum cleaners for sale. Another blow to global corporations in the gut!