When carrying out repair and construction works in the private sector, it is often necessary to manufacture curved metal structures. They are used to create a frame for canopies, awnings, roofs of houses and gazebos. The rollers for shaped pipe... These are devices that can be purchased at specialized stores or made by hand. Let's consider the purpose of these devices, their types and specifications.

Only rolling rolling on a special machine is a way to achieve such a result. Rollers are a mechanism consisting of several metal shafts and a source of energy that drives them.

Types of rollers

To give the rental the required shape, devices with the same mechanical part and different drives are used.

The choice of an energy source depends on several factors:

• how much load is required to bend the metal;
• how often the equipment will be used;
• in what conditions the pipe bender is planned to be used;
• own knowledge, experience in the field of design and work with iron.

Let's briefly consider the features of each type of drive.

Hydraulic

Structures of this type are the most powerful and productive. Typically used by factories and mass production factories curved profiles... Hydraulics are difficult for self-assembly, but it creates a force sufficient to bend several large pipes at once.

At home, the design of a hydraulic profile bending machine is economically justified if it is planned to manufacture tens or hundreds of thick arched profiles.

Mechanical / lever

The products are portable and lightweight. They are easy to carry from place to place and transport in the back. The increase in pressure on the drive device is achieved by increasing the length of the lever. But, you can bend manually only profiles with a cross section of no more than 40 × 20 mm. These parts are suitable for the construction of the roof of the house and yard buildings. Greenhouses covered with honeycomb polycarbonate are made from arched profiles.

Electrical

Usage electric motor for passing workpieces through shafts not only accelerates the process of bending pipes, but also relieves home master from hard physical labor. Performance electrical devices high with insignificant financial costs.

Assembling the machine on their own requires knowledge of mechanics, electrical engineering and kinematics. Attention should be paid to safety issues.

How the rollers work

Rolling a profile pipe is the process of giving it a bend of a certain radius. To achieve this, it is necessary to place the workpiece between the rollers, which are located below and above. The workpiece is fed into the device and pressed down from above. After that, the shafts begin to rotate, pushing the pipe forward and deforming it in the direction of the upper shaft.

If the degree of bending is not sufficient for the project, then the degree of pressure increases. The product is rolled through the rollers until the desired shape is reached.

How to use the rollers

This fixture consists of several static and moving parts:

1. The basis is a strong, heavy and stable bed, to which all other units and mechanisms are attached.
2. On the frame there are rollers that act as a receiving and feeding device. The rollers are connected to the transmission to the power plant.
3. A clamping device is attached to the base, which regulates the bending parameters. Typically, manufacturers use a threaded clamp.
4. A guide from sheet metal, reinforcement or steel profile. This part is necessary so that the workpiece does not bend in the horizontal direction.

Regardless of the power source supplied to the idler rollers, all devices work the same way. After turning on the equipment, the end of the profile is inserted into the hole between the rollers and fed forward. The gripped workpiece passes along the shafts, where it is deformed. To reduce the radius, the clamp is tightened and the arch is run again.

Is it better to buy or do it yourself?

The products manufactured at the plant have one thing in common - a high price. It is much higher than the purchase cost finished arches or ordering this service from professionals. With a competent approach to business homemade pipe benders superior in quality to factory counterparts.

The decision on whether to make an expensive purchase or make a machine with your own hands should be after studying the market conditions and assessing your capabilities.

What are on the market

The economic market provides wide choose, differing in various parameters. The machines can have multiple rollers and even directions for bending multiple workpieces at the same time. Work zone equipped with a swing-out or adjustable shaft.

The drive is brought out to the upper and lower shafts or just one level. Electrical and hydraulic devices provide for the possibility of manual rotation with an indication of how much force is required for this.

Modern models of pipe benders are classified according to the following criteria:

• actuator;
• dimensions;
• type of metal being processed;
• profile wall thickness;
• diameter (mm) of rollers;
• maximum length of workpieces.

Almost all machines have the option of reversing the rotation of the rolling mechanism.

DIY assembly

The pipe bending roll is a simple device. You can even make it from scrap materials left over after repair and construction. In most cases, when deciding how to make rolls, novice craftsmen tend to choose a mechanical type design. It is easy to design and assemble using welding, which is found in every home.

The small-sized machine is easy to move around the site, there is no need to build a separate room for it.

Drawing

Before making a solid and functional profile bending machine, detailed drawings must be made, the dimensions of all parts must be applied with high accuracy.

Roll diagrams can be made on graph paper or on a computer. The choice depends on your design skills. Based on the drawn up drawings, the need for building materials and tools. An estimate is made, equipment is selected and the missing property is purchased.

Materials and tools

To assemble homemade rollers, you will need the following tools and consumables:

• welding machine;
• grinder or milling cutter with discs for metal;
• roulette;
• electric drill;
• a set of screwdrivers and wrenches;
• square;
• core;
• oil level;
• hardware (corners, bolts, nuts, rivets);
• channel or I-beam;
• blanks for shafts;
• shaped pipes.

When choosing a material for construction, it should be remembered that metals and alloys for rollers must be much stronger than steel of profile pipes.

What is included in the design

The frame is made of thick and heavy rolled products.

The strength and mass of the base should correspond to the applied force when rolling the profiles. The assembled frame must be stable and strong so as not to sway during operation.

The clamping system is assembled in the shape of the letter "P". A threaded hole is made on the top bar to create the downforce. Another option is to weld the nut over round hole... Subsequently, a bolt is inserted into it to adjust the clearance between the rollers.

The rollers themselves are equipped with rolling bearings that are mounted on solid axles. The rolls are turned on a lathe and undergo a quenching cycle in oil.

The drive is made up of bicycle sprockets and a chain. The sprockets are welded to the driven and driven shafts and then connected by a chain. The gate is welded onto the drive sprocket with sufficient leverage.

Filling with sand or water?

When the workpieces are strongly bent, they are flattened and the geometry of the section is violated. In order to prevent this, the hollow profiles are filled with a dense material that does not change the volume under pressure.

The most simple solution is filling the blanks with sand. It is spilled with water, rammed, and then the plugs are welded to the ends.

It is more difficult with water, since the plugs must be airtight. If the assembly takes place in winter, then the best solution the pipes will be filled with water, closed with plastic plugs and frozen. This method is used in the manufacture of wind musical instruments.

Spring selection

Springs are used to reduce the effects of vibration from the electric motor on the rolling system. With strong vibration, the workpieces can move along the horizontal axis. The springs must be firm to prevent the motor from swinging and at the same time to reduce shaking. It is recommended to use at least 4 springs to secure the motor base.

Chop and cook

The process of making rollers is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Measurements and markings in accordance with the diagrams.
2. Cutting rolled products into blanks, cleaning the field for welding.
3. Turning and hardening of shafts, installing bearings in them, attaching sprockets, fixing on an axis.
4. Welding of the frame with the rolling and clamping mechanism.
5. Installation of the drive. It can be permanent or removable.
6. Checking the performance of the machine.

In conclusion, the metal is cleaned from rust, primed and painted. Moving parts are lubricated.

Process video

Viewing video of work on self-production rollers will help novice craftsmen to easily cope with this work.

The rolling machine consists of a massive base, a feed and take-up shafts, a gearbox and a pressure device that connects them. The kinematic diagram of one of the design options is shown in the figures.

Circuit specification:
1. The handle of the manual drive;
2. Take-up shaft;
3. Drive shaft;
4. Gear wheel of the take-up shaft;
5. Gear wheel of the driving shaft;
6. Base;
7. Side stand;
8. Shock absorber;
9. Tightening plate;
10.Adjusting screws.

Gearbox design

The main structural elements are shafts.

Detailing.
Shaft and side stand.

The shafts must be made of steel and hardened. They should be turned on a lathe.
The length of the journals should be equal to the height of the ball bearings you have chosen, and one should be increased by the shank (the height of the mounting flange of the handle). The shank must have a diameter that allows the ball bearing to “pass” freely to the journal.
The situation with the gearbox is more complicated.

Detailing.
Gear.

If it is not possible to make gears (and this is possible only in the factory on special equipment) or pick up a ready-made planetary gearbox to drive the shafts, then use a chain drive from a bicycle. In this case, sprocket gears of the rear wheels of an adult road bike (of the cheapest design, without bells and whistles and calipers) are installed on the axle of the shafts. In this case, on the shaft journal it is necessary to perform milling work to install the key.

We remind you that the shafts must rotate at exactly the same speed, otherwise slippage of the processed material is possible (with all the ensuing sad consequences). Therefore, you should install new gears or ones that have not been in service (without wear). A spring-loaded chain tensioner with an "sprocket" from a small (children's) bike should be provided.

Pay attention to the compatibility of the "sprockets" with the bicycle chain (different gear module is possible). To check compatibility, each gear should be "rolled" on the chain spread out on the table. If compatible, the teeth should fit easily into the links.

It is also better to use a new chain. Together with the purchase of "stars" and bicycle chain you should buy a repair kit for it, in which there are insert links and axle bushings. The chain, before installation, must be adjusted to the size (length) for our device. Here you will need parts from this kit (how to replace it is indicated in the "Instructions for use" of the repair kit).

Assembly technology of sheet metal rolling machine

The assembly begins with pressing ball bearings (4 pieces) into the sliders (4 pieces).

It is advisable to perform this operation in a locksmith's vice.

Further, the shaft journals are pressed into the inner race of the ball bearings (inserted into the sliders). This is done on an anvil by the method of axial hammer blows through soft copper gaskets (other soft metal is possible: aluminum, etc.). Anyone who does not find the required ball bearings can press bronze bushings into the sliders, machined to fit its mounting dimensions (taking into account the sliding fit for the shaft journal).

Two words about the foundation. As a base, depending on your needs and capabilities, any massive structure can be used: from a steel plate to a welded corner frame (or other profile).

The marking and installation of the side struts will be done "on site".

Sliders (assembled with shafts) assemble with side posts (4 pieces) and place on the base. When assembling sliders with racks, it is recommended to lubricate the guides of the latter with thick grease (for more details on lubrication - at the end of the article). Check the free rotation of the shafts, and make a marking for the installation of all side racks (sketch of the racks - see above). It is advisable to fasten the racks using M 6 ... 8 screws with a countersunk head (welding is not recommended - the whole structure will "lead").
Sequence of mounting the side posts:

• install two stands on one side (either side), check the free play of the sliders on this side and check the markings for attaching the stands on the other side. Correct the markup if necessary;
• install one support on the other side (similar to the above), check the free movement of the sliders (all!) and the rotation of the shafts. Check the marking of the installation of the last rack and, if necessary, correct;
• install the last stand (similar to above). Check the free play of the sliders and the rotation of the shafts.

The resulting seizures are eliminated by alternately loosening the fastening of the side struts and placing wedges under them from scraps of thin sheet metal or other suitable pieces of metal.

A shock absorber (made of hard rubber) is placed on top of the sliders and a clamping bar is placed on it. With four screws, this strap presses the shock absorber to the sliders of the take-up shaft and the latter to the drive shaft. During operation, these screws regulate the pressure of one shaft on the other.

The handle of the manual drive is installed on the shank of the journal of the drive shaft - you can use the handle from the manual meat grinder.

In this case, on the shank under it connection size should be "remove the flattening" with emery.
You have assembled your homemade sheet metal rolls, but it's too early to start using them.

Final operations

After assembly, be sure to remove the burrs (with a file or any other handy tool) and "fill in" (blunt) the sharp edges. To make the tool pleasant to use, it should be painted. By this, in addition to its aesthetic properties, you will increase its anti-corrosion protection. The paint can be used pentaphthalic type "PF". Do not forget to clean (including degrease) metal surfaces before painting.
And the final operation is lubrication. Check for grease on the slide guides (you greased them during assembly). Lubricate adjusting screws and bearings.
Any grease (grease, lithol, grease, etc.) can be used.

What can be improved in this design

The design offered to your attention includes an independent adjustment of the forces on the side struts. Above, if you wish, you can install a gearbox that will equalize these efforts, and your device will look something like this.

note

We draw your attention to the fact that the dimensions in our drawings and sketches are approximate and cannot be taken as executive ones. The proposed design documentation is a hint for DIY enthusiasts. It is intended only to show you the "direction of movement." Therefore, some (not responsible) nodes are constructively not fully worked out and are "left to the mercy" of you, fans of experimenting. Moving in this direction, you will be able, based on your needs and capabilities, to develop an executive design documentation (set of sketches) acceptable for you with executive dimensions and think over your technology for manufacturing a device.

We wish you every success!

Where can I buy

If you still decide not to do, but to buy a ready-made machine, choose the contacts of the sellers on the page ““.

If there is a need for frequent production of hollow or cone-shaped products from thin sheet metal with the main technological process is bending, and the most suitable equipment is three-roll plate bending rolls. Why three rolls? Because the kinematic diagram of manual four-roll plate bending machines becomes much more complicated, and no visible advantages can be obtained from this.

How to develop a technical task for the development of a rolling machine with your own hands

The simplest scheme of a three-roll manual machine includes:

1. Frame base.
2. Two side racks with holes for bearing units.
3. Three longitudinal shafts, one of which - the upper one - is located at an angle of 60 ° relative to the other two.
4. A set of work rolls, the number of which depends on the limiting value of the outer diameter of the workpiece being rolled.
5. A handle for rotating the lower, driven rolls.
6. Gear or chain transmission, which will provide synchronous rotation of the drive rolls in one direction.
7. Pressing unit with compression springs, which will provide the ability to press the non-driven roll to the workpiece. It is easier to do it on the left or right, since the thin sheet quite easily comes out of the gap when its original value is changed only on one side.
8. A device for turning one of the legs of the rolling machine in order to replace the work rolls.

First of all, you should clearly limit technical capabilities the designed roller equipment. The manual bending machine is capable of bending sheet metal with a thickness of no more than 1 - 1.5 mm, with a workpiece width of up to 600 mm. With a low energy intensity of the bending process itself, friction losses in gears and bearings are very significant, which will force the operator to increase the muscular effort applied to turn the work rolls. Meanwhile, the apparent unevenness of their rotation will cause unwanted distortions in the shape of the profiled product.

Of the two options - asymmetric or symmetrical placement of the driven rolls - the second option should be preferred, since in this case it is much easier to make the rolls with your own hands.

Manufacturing sequence of manual rolling machine

It is best to use ready-made drawings for homemade rollers which are available on specialized forums. If you need to make a manual rolling machine for other parameters of the parts being produced, then the design begins with determining the force and torque required for bending. These values ​​will be minimal in the case of deformation of aluminum grades AD0 or AD1, but with a workpiece thickness of up to 0.8 mm, bending of low-carbon steel grades steel 08 or steel 08kp is also possible. If the obtained values ​​satisfy the physical capabilities of the performer, then from design you can proceed to the manufacture of parts for future sheet-bending rollers.

To make a do-it-yourself roller machine, you first need a drawing general view machine, where you should depict the kinematic diagram of the movement of all its moving parts. You will also need drawings of assembly units and working drawings of non-normalized parts of a three-roll bending machine. It is advisable that there are fewer such parts, since it is difficult, if not impossible, to make many of them at home, and with your own hands. In particular, it makes sense to find guides with a circular cross-section, for example, from a decommissioned lathe 1K62 or smaller: their technical condition will make it possible to use these parts for the support shafts of bending rollers. The same goes for the gear pair. Further, for the available parts, you can clarify the characteristics of the future three-roll rollers and make a selection of rolling bearings for all shafts.

It is advisable to use ready-made drawings for the following nodes:

• A non-driven roll clamp unit, which resembles a conventional clamp in the form of a clamp, mounted in one of the posts;
• Bearing housings in which the rolls will rotate;
• Support frame of the rolling machine.

The listed drawings are usually universal and do not need revision for specific products, the bending of which is supposed to be carried out on do-it-yourself rollers.

Assembling a rolling machine with your own hands

Self-made manual roll benders are assembled in the following sequence:

1. The frame of the rolling machine is welded (according to the dimensions given in the general drawing).
2. Side posts are mounted, for which a steel channel profile made of low-carbon steel 09G2S or similar is suitable.
3. The housing is attached to the transmission parts (if you have to make the gears yourself or order, then for the installation of the chain transmission you can pick up power sprockets and a tension chain, for example, from a mountain bike).
4. The shafts are inserted into the holes of the bearing housings, after which their parallelism is set, and the final fixation of the machine units is made.
5. Front final assembly of the roller unit with your own hands, it is worth making a trial bending of the part, clarifying the amount and nature of lubrication of the bearing supports, and adjusting the tension of the drive chain.

If the rollers are to be installed in unheated room(for example, in a garage), then all parts should be painted with weather-resistant paint or take care of their anti-corrosion coating.

A lot of products are made from sheet metal - drainage systems, shaped parts for cladding or metal tiles, ebbs for a basement, corners for structures made of profiled sheet, etc. All this can be done by a special bending machine- for sheet metal. How to make a do-it-yourself bending machine and we'll talk in this article.

Types of bending machines

All these devices are referred to as bending machines. With your own hands, it is easiest to make an assembly of the first group, a little more difficult - the third (rolls for sheet metal). Let's talk about them - from how to make a do-it-yourself bending machine.

Simple manual

Shaped metal parts cost a lot of money. Even more than corrugated board or metal tiles, therefore it makes sense to make the simplest machine for bending sheet metal, and with its help to make as many corners, ebbs and other similar parts as you need, and exclusively to your size.

Listogib - side projection

If you are worried about appearance then in vain. On sale today sheet metal not only galvanized, but also painted. In all structures, the sheet is fixed tightly, so that it does not slip on the table during work, which means that the paint is not erased or scratched. In places of bending, it is also not damaged. So the products will look quite decent. If you try, it will look even better than what is being sold on the market.

Powerful listogib made of Taurus

This bending machine will require a flat surface (table), preferably metal, three corners with a shelf width of at least 45 mm, and a metal thickness of at least 3 mm. If you plan to bend long workpieces (more than a meter), it is advisable to take the shelves wider and the metal is thicker. You can use brands, but this is for bending metal sheets of large thickness and length.

You will also need metal door hinges(two pieces), two screws large diameter(10-20 mm), "lambs" on them, spring. You will also need a welding machine - weld the hinges and make holes (or a drill with a drill for metal).

For a homemade listogib, a 70 mm Tavr was used - three pieces of 2.5 m each, two bolts of 20 mm in diameter, a small piece of metal 5 mm thick (for cutting jibs), a spring. Here is the procedure:

1. Two brands are folded, from both ends they cut out recesses in them under the hinges. The edges of the recesses are beveled at 45 °. The third brand is cut in the same way, only the depth of the groove is made a little more - this will be a clamping bar, so that it should move freely.

   

2. Hinges are welded on both sides (boil from the face and from the inside out).

   

3. To one of the brands (farthest from you, if they are "open"), two jibs are welded on each side. They are needed so that you can install the clamping plate bolt on them.

   

4. Weld the bolt nut to the jibs.

   

5. Install the clamping plate (third cut tee), weld metal plates in the upper part with a hole in the middle. The hole diameter is slightly larger than the bolt diameter. Center the holes so that they are on the same vertical line with the welded nut. Weld.

   

6. Cut the spring so that it raises the clamping bar by 5-7 mm. Pass the bolt into the "ear" of the clamping bar, put on the spring, tighten the nut. After installing the same spring on the other side, the clamping bar rises itself when unscrewed.

   

7. Weld two pieces of reinforcement to the screw head - as handles for tightening.

   

8. Weld the handle to the movable (closest to you) brand. Everything, you can work.

   

This option is very powerful - you can bend long workpieces and a sheet of solid thickness. Such a scale is not always in demand, but it can always be reduced. The video suggests a similar smaller design, but with a different clamping bar mount. By the way, no one bothers to install a spring on the screw too - it will be easier to raise the bar. And this design is interesting in that it is possible to make flanging on it, which usually such devices do not know how.

From a corner with a different type of clamping bar

This model is welded from a thick-walled corner, the bed is made like a regular construction trestle, which is welded from the same corner. The handle is from the luggage trolley. Interesting design screws - they are long, the handle is bent in the shape of the letter "L". Convenient to twist / unscrew.

This DIY sheet metal bending machine has many features:

Now let's move on to the design of the pressure plate (pictured above). It is also made of a corner, but fits onto the machine with an upward bend. In order to prevent the bar from bending during operation, reinforcement is welded on - metal jumpers. At both ends of the strip, small metal pads are welded, in which holes for bolts are drilled.

One more important point- the face that faces the bend is cut off - to get more acute angle bending.

The clamping bar is laid on the machine, a spring is placed in the place where the nut is installed. The handle is put in place. If it does not press the bar, it is raised above the surface due to the spring force. In this position, the workpiece is tucked under it, exposed, pressed.

A spring is placed under the hole, then a bolt

Not a bad option for home use... It will not be possible to bend thick metal, but tin, galvanized steel is easy.

Rolls for sheet metal or roll bending machine

This type of bending machine can have three types of drive:

• manual;
• hydraulic;
• electric.

Do it yourself rolls for sheet metal with manual or electric drive... In manual ones, they put 3 shafts, in electric ones there can be 3-4, but usually there are also three.

This machine needs a good, reliable base. It can be a separate bed or some kind of workbench or table. The design is based on rolls. They are made the same size. The two lower ones are installed permanently, the upper one is movable, so that in the lower position it is located between the rollers. By changing the distance between the lower rollers and the upper one, the radius of curvature changes.

The machine is driven by a handle attached to one of the shafts. The torque is then transmitted to the other rollers via sprockets. They are selected so that the rotation speed is the same.

If it is supposed to make pipes on the equipment, the upper roller on one side is made removable, with a quick fixing system. Having rolled the sheet into a tube, there is no other way to pull it out.

Manual table rollers will provide craftsmen great help in work. They can be used to roll thin sheet metal, wire - into a strip of any given thickness or width, and even with a square section. If you make streams in the rollers, it is easy to get any shaped steel for a variety of auxiliary or basic operations.

So, for example, when doing fine work a low-power soldering iron requires very little solder, but to take this drop, you have to warm up the edge of the whole piece. Soldering will go faster and better if the tin is preliminarily rolled in the form of a thin tape and rolled up in a spiral: it will only be enough to touch its end with a soldering iron - the solder instantly goes to the tip; its consumption decreases, and the seam will be cleaner.

Of course, not everyone is able to make these with their own hands, but they can be ordered in the appropriate workshops. The main details of this bench machine- steel, hardened, ground cylinders - rollers. Their dimensions: diameter 55 mm, length of the working part 75 mm. Bed - welded, made of sheet steel 10 ... 15 mm thick (or cast to wooden model). Support (in two halves) and push sleeves - bronze or brass. The design provides for the possibility of their mutual permutation.

Basic data of the small roller mechanism

Gears are selected in accordance with the table below. The module must be large enough to lift the top roller without disengaging the gears. A keyway is made in the gears and axles of the rollers. To prevent the gears from turning, they are placed on a key or on a square shoulder in the screw, or they are locked with a hairpin. Pressure gear screws - M16. It is advisable to polish the axle necks.

1 - fastening bolt, 2 - support bush, 3, 4 - rollers, 5 - keyways,
6 - connecting bar, 7, 8 - gears of the pressure mechanism, 9 - the knob, 10 - nut of the pressure screw, 11 - drive gears, 12 - lever, 13 - handle, 14 - bed,
15 - pressure screw, 16 - pressure sleeve.

The lever of the handle is made of strip steel, 300 mm long; to transmit large forces, it must be of a suitable section and sufficiently rigid. The arm bushing is attached to the shaft with a key.

The rollers are bolted to the table or simple bed. The rollers can roll soft metals - brass, red copper, aluminum and their alloys. Hard metal should be pre-annealed - softened.

Previous publications:

• Two drill attachments for grinding and sawing