What a surprise can be presented to develop wooden frames and how to get out of a difficult situation, the construction expert tells.

We love wooden houses. Wood products filled with almost all country buildings. The tree likes us for a beautiful view, freshness and pleasant smell, affordable price and many other valuable qualities.

However, he has the weaknesses: a tendency to rotting and affecting wood mushrooms, excessive allocation of resin wood coniferous rocks, especially pine and fir. If all technological rules are observed, the mushrooms can be avoided, but the resin in the wood can manifest itself in the most unexpected way. We encountered this phenomenon quite unexpected.

Came trouble, from where they did not wait!

For country house Large wooden windows and doors with double-glazed windows were ordered. Pre-we studied the manufacturer's samples, and even ready-made installed window blocks In a residential building, which has been exploited for several years.

Questions for quality did not occur. Under the layer of transparent varnish, pine window blocks looked flawlessly. Overpayment for oak constructions considered overnight.

For the house they chose the brown color of window blocks and doors. Looking forward, let's say that it was our first mistake.

Beautiful window blocks mounted in September. Until the next summer, the window did not cause any problems. But with the onset of hot summer on the south side of the house, discovered paint on the surface of the frames, which immediately caused anxiety.

A few days later, through the paint coating began to commence the resin. And there were at least two tens of such sections on window blocks. Initially beautiful windows immediately lost sight. What to do?

Urgently caused a contractor who made and installed our window blocks. The company's representative immediately stated that this is the first case of a similar defect.

The field of removal of the paint and varnish coating on areas with a resin was revealed by resin pockets and sections of wood, richly impregnated with resin. On the sun, a dark brown surface warms up stronger than light, this and contributed to the separation of resin from wood.

Repair of resin karmashkov

In the fall, after during the summer months the main part of the resin left the wood, we started repair work. After removing the paint from the defective sections of the window frames, we revealed to two tens of resin pockets and three plots with shocks. It was necessary to somehow remove the resin from the wood, otherwise it would constantly stand out and destroyed painting coatings.

The problem was solved by a mechanical way: a piece of wood, together with a resin pocket, was cut into a depth of 5 mm. Then, the recess was embedded with the so-called boat-standard from dry unaware wood installed on glue. All this we did manually with single smallery pockets.

After the sealing of resin pockets began to eliminate squeezes. These are the volumetric defects, and the pumped areas should be chopped by a solid layer of pure wood. For this, the facial areas of frames with shocks had to cut into a depth of 3-5 mm using wide chisels and sandpaper.

These stripped areas were firmly adjusted and inserts from healthy wood passed. After drying the adhesive, the window frames were stuck and carefully treated with acetone to remove resin residues, and then repaired frames were thoroughly washed hot water With soap.

Now it was possible to start restoring the paint layer. Repaired sections have been covered with a fine shplotovka. Then they thoroughly stolen, the trunut-shafts and were painted in two layers.

Finish in two or three layers

It was handed to paint by hand, a small roller and tassels. It was not possible to achieve high-quality painting from the first time. I had to be subwinding and painted again. Some sites were well attacked from the second time, and some from the third. But perseverance brought the desired result. Repaired areas have become practically no distinguishable. True, doubts remained: how will the renovated places rise next season? Will the resin come to the surface again? But no, summer inspection showed that the resin did not learn anywhere through the barrier of healthy wood. The windows were saved.

If you make furniture

On an example with a resin in wooden windows I wanted to show how important it is close to choosing wood for furniture and wooden products. It is necessary to carefully select the material, sorting all the blanks with resin pockets, and even more so with shocks.

Lining and floorboards should also be sorted before use. Sealing resin pockets and especially squeezing - very laborious work, so boards with such flaws it is better to put on black work.

If you build logs

Smolny pockets and even squeezes are also found in the houses with fires from a bar or rounded logs. The problem is that GOST 8486-86 "Timber of coniferous rocks. Technical conditions"Allows the presence of resin pockets even in the lumber of the highest (selected variety) on any one-piece plot in the amount of 1 pc. no more than 50 mm long. In lumber of the 1st and 2nd varieties, 2 and 4 pockets on any one-dimensional area along the entire length of the workpiece are allowed. Therefore, in a contract for the construction of a house from a bar or a rounded log special attention should be given to resin defects.

Of course, fir and pine wood without resin pockets practically does not happen, but let them be like in the selected wood grade - little and small sizes.

In the consolation of homeowners who already have house-logs with resin pockets or squeezes, I want to say: wood with a resin is more durable, and the smell of resin containing many essential oils is not only pleasant, but also useful.

• Smolyan pockets The wood is called cavities either inside the annual layers. Either between them. Filled with resin still during the lifetime of a tree.
• ShocklesCalled richly impregnated resin areas of wood. Formed due to injury of coniferous breeds. Containing resin strokes and resin cells. The resin accumulates at such sections of wood and remains there forever.

Removal of resin pockets in wood - video

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You will need:

• Milling Machine
• Putty knife
• Wooden patchwork
• Grinding machine

Smolyonic influx in the bath provide negative impact On human health, since at high temperatures and high humidity, the resin began to evaporate and can get into the body. In addition, they can gradually destroy the frame of the bath. As a rule, the resin appears in the bath made of coniferous wood, which before the construction of construction was not sufficient enough. Therefore, bother about the appearance of the resin in the future it is necessary at the stage of the workpiece building materials.

SAMI effective help When the resin appears on wood - milling and installation of wooden patches. Perhaps, this methodHow to remove the resin in the bath is both the easiest and most reliable. First you need using a special milling machine Drive holes in places of resin spots. If there is no milling mill, you can outline the circle, chop the holes are large on the diameter with a drill and choose using the chisel.

Wooden patchwork is recommended to do after all resin stains from the surface cleaned were removed. In order not to spoil the view of the bath, it is recommended to make patches from the same wood. Just to insert patchwork is not recommended, they can fall out over time and moisture can enter the gap that can cause rotting. Therefore, they need to be attached to special glue, non-toxic and capable of withstanding the effects of high temperatures. You can use sealants.

Perhaps the resin in the bath is the most unpleasant problem with which it is difficult to fight. The above actions can help for a while protecting the processed areas from the appearance of spots, but they can appear further. In case of urgent need to eliminate the resin in the bath will help the chisels and soldering iron. First you need a soldering iron to burn the place around the resin spot, melted the growth, if such a time has time to form, and scrape the rest with the help of the chisel. Then the hole must be filled with shellac and processed to the end. Extraked patchwork is recommended to span so that they become less noticeable to the naked eye.

uznay-kak.ru.

Bani do-it-yourself repair - how to remove mold, get rid of resin and other problems, resolution with photos, tips and video

Wooden surfaces and bath design are subjected to intensive impact of humidity and temperatures. As a result, cleaning of surfaces is required, timely repair and care of the structure.

Instructions: problems and their decision

Under the influence of moisture, temperature drops and other factors, wooden surfaces inside the bath lose the initial appearance. The lack of proper care leads to the reproduction of microorganisms and mold, and it is unpleasant to steam in such a bath. Therefore, all design elements require care and cleaning for which they use special means. Formulations allow you to eliminate the blades, mold, prevent cracking wooden furniture.

Care and cleaning retain the aesthetics of the bath

Elimination of mold and fungus in the sauna

A common problem is the appearance on the walls and wooden surfaces of the bath of mold and fungus. The reasons for their occurrence are in high humidity indoors, the absence of ventilation and condensate, frequent operation, incorrect ventilation or poor insulation. As a result, the manifestations of mold and fungus, which look like white-gray row on the surfaces and in the corners. This leads to a worsening of health and health problems.

Mold often appears in the absence of ventilation

The spread of mold and fungus leads to the decoration of the structure. To solve and prevent problems, you need to find a cause. First, regular ventilation of the room in which mold arose. Dry surfaces standing in summer time years and in dry hot weather. Check ventilation performance, clean it from blockages.

To eliminate mold and fungus, you need to hold the following activities:

• clean surfaces from dirt and dust. For processing you can use folk remedies, for example, alcohol. The liquid accelerates the evaporation of water and penetrates the wood, killing microorganisms. It is worth considering that alcohol is easily flammable;
• for processing, you can apply a solution of 1 liter of water, 22 g iron Camp, 18 g of the cooking salt and add 44 g of alumokalia alum;
• with the help of a sponge and winds, moistened in the liquid, wipe all surfaces that have been subjected to mold formation, as well as the area around them;
• processing can be done twice. First, the mold is removed by the liquid, and then the new solution is wiped with all surfaces and washed with clean water.

Eliminate mold using professional funds. When choosing it is worth paying attention to the action of the composition, as well as the composition. The tool must be intended to eliminate fungus and mold, and not for prevention. After processing, drying and eliminating the causes of fungus, surfaces should be regularly ringed with prophylactic agents.

Deleting soot and soot

Black marks from soot often appear on wooden surfaces in the bath after the furnace protest. It is possible to prevent such a phenomenon only by regular chimney cleaning, proper operation Furnaces. In the absence of care, smoking deeply penetrates the structure of the tree and spoil the appearance of the room.

From the soot of the walls of the walls and the ceiling black

Careful organization of chimney and zone near the furnace minimize the appearance of dirt. After each protood, you need to remove fresh soot, which will save the comfort in the bath.

To preserve the appearance of the surfaces, you can apply the following methods:

• mechanical method Cleaning involves the use of a scraper or other acute tool with which they remove black raids from wooden surfaces. The grinding machine is more convenient, but both technologies are time consuming and affect the appearance of the walls. With a mechanical cleaning method eliminated upper layer wood;
• folk ways are different. Often, after each protood, sand or other abrasive substances are used that easily remove fresh soot. Treatment of surfaces with soap water is also effective only for fresh mud;
• chemical washed is the most effective solution. The composition that can be purchased in the store includes alkaline components. For application, you need to apply a sponge, to withstand according to the instructions, and then rinse thoroughly. When choosing it is necessary to take into account the possibility of applying chemistry on various surfaces.

Chemical compounds are effective to eliminate the soot from brick, wood, metal. When processing, it is necessary to comply with the instructions and the use of rubber gloves.

How to get rid of resin?

The appearance of the resin on wooden surfaces is typical of pine elements of the sheat, floor or furniture. Such a material is undesirable to apply in the bath, since at high temperatures, resin is released from the tree structure. The flows spoil the appearance of the surfaces and have a sharp smell.

Pine wood should not use in the bath

To avoid resin flutters, pine wood should not be used in the bath. The finish is best to create from aspen or linden, cedar, because these materials are safe, aesthetic and practical in operation. If the pine elements were used on which drums appeared, then solve the problem can be mechanically using the problem. At the same time, the resin must be regularly scattered from the surfaces. The appearance of a substance will end after a while, but to scrape the substance thoroughly.

The radical method consisting in the full change of pine cladding on elements from another wood allows to solve the problem finally. Financial and time costs are needed to eliminate the lining, but the regular appearance of the resin can be avoided.

Internal cleaning of a wooden wage

The elimination of mud prevents the development of mold, dampness and other unpleasant phenomena. For this purpose, it is necessary to regularly make general cleaning inside the bath. First, all the furniture, mats and other items should be taken out of the room. Rinse them in a soap solution, slip and dry in the sun. At that time, the furniture dries out, cleaning inside. This process includes the following points:

• mold, soot and soot, resin eliminate suitable means and methods;
• from the furnace you need to remove the zone, clean the chimney and the space around the furnace;
• all wooden surfaces are treated with antiseptics intended for the bath;
• to clean surfaces, use a rigid rush;
• lighten the wood helps special bleach for wood;
• resistant pollution on the shelves are removed by grinding machine or sandpaper.

During cleaning, only products intended for wood and a simple soap solution are used. Brushes, sponges and fabric are well coped with fresh pollution. Paid or old spots are removed by grinding or embarrassment. The general cleaning should be done once a month, and after each protood you need to wash the bath.

Clanging processing

The elimination of the wetting, mold and fungus with the walling, mold and fungus are carried out both mechanical and chemical methods. The first category of funds involves the use of grinding machine or scraper. This affects the appearance of the surfaces and walls of the lining.

Clean walls provide comfort in the bath

Chemicals for bleaching, elimination of dirt with wooden lining require right choice. The compositions used should be intended for baths and saunas, which will ensure efficient cleaning and safe application of chemistry. Purified walls or new lining in the bath can be covered with acrylic paints, which are suitable for the bath. Pre-apply antiseptics that prevent rotting. These events greatly facilitate further operation and interfere with the pollution of the lining.

Other pollution

Due to high humidity in the bath there may be different pollution. Since the room serves to wash, the shampoos, soap and other means that are quickly absorbed into the wood are used. In the absence of regular cleaning on the surface of walls, furniture and floor, a soap unpleasant layer occurs. You can eliminate such a problem with a rigid brush. By thorough friction handle floor, walls and furniture. Then everyone is rinsed with warm water and dried.

Each object in the bath requires the elimination of a soap layer and dirt.

In the bath there are inappropriate metal screws and other elements, because they quickly rust out of humidity. As a result, on the lining or other surfaces remain rusty traces. Eliminate them easily with oxalic acid or household chemicalscontaining this substance. The tool is applied to the stains, triturated with sponge, and then rinsed the surface well.

Bath insulation

For comfortable operation, the steam room needs a good building insulation. This allows you to quickly heat the room, bathe with the convenience and keep the design in winter. With absence good insulation Or a worn building of the building there are various problems that interfere with bathe comfort. In this case, the reasons and repair the bath should be eliminated.

All the surfaces of the building of the bath need insulation

Warming is carried out for walls, ceiling, roofing baths. For this, only high-quality materials that must be necessarily resistant to high humidity. Safety for human health and environmental friendliness of materials are taken into account when choosing.

Floor arrangement in the bath

Discomfort and heat loss in the steam room or the pre-tribades often arise due to insufficient floor insulation. Lack of thermal insulation or airbag, poor waterproofing, incorrectly chosen materials can cause cold air to the bath. Therefore, when building a building, it is necessary to study the insulation technology.

Insulate the wooden floor is very simple

If such a problem occurs, the following actions are necessary:

• determination of the cause of the receipt of the cold through the floor, for example, the absence of waterproofing. Depending on the cause, further actions are carried out;
• the emerging slots and gaps between the walls and the floor are close using a mounting foam;
• with the low quality of the old insulation, the floor design is disassembled, inside the new layers of hydro and thermal insulation taking into account the drain;
• cracks in the concrete floor need to be seal cement mortar, as well as check the drain siphon in which the gap can be.

The exact floor repairs depends on the type of surface, the causes of the problem. High-quality floor has no cracks, has even and with a slight bias to plum the surface.

Warming of entrance doors

The heat loss through the area of \u200b\u200bthe entrance doors in the bath is a frequent cause of the rapid cooling of the room. IN winter time The doors are frozen and covered with a layer of Inea. Such an effect occurs if there is only one door to the bath, as well as at all high temperatures indoor air or cut Delta temperatures. The low quality design of the door often leads to freezing and reducing the performance characteristics of the room.

Second entrance door The bath must be made of wood

If two entrance doors are installed in the bath, then the outer can be insulated metallic, and the inner is wooden. This will avoid freezing and reducing the temperature indoors. At the same time, it is necessary to insulate even the highest quality metal door. For this purpose, mineral wool, foam, polyurethane foam and other means are used.

Double door Bath practical

To eliminate the problem of freezing, it is worth performing the following actions:

• eliminate the slots between the door frame and the wall or floor;
• mount the sealing tape on door box;
• close the gaps in the wall, ceiling or floor from the other side where the door is located and around it;
• second wooden door should not have cracks;
• on the perimeter of the door box, sealing rollers are installed, preventing heat loss.

The door insulation is an important point when the bath is arranged. This avoids the set of problems and destruction of the design.

Freezing or damage to the drain

Through the slots in the damaged drain siphon can come cold air. Replacing the old device to a new one is a solution to this problem. A more complex situation is when water was frozen. This occurs as a result of the frozen of the remaining water in the pipes. Therefore, you must always thoroughly merge all the water from boiler, cranes and other communications. To eliminate the problem, you need to melt the bath, pour out a few liters of boiling water into the drain and check the system. A small ice tube such a method helps to eliminate quickly.

The defrost method depends on the design of the drain

When designing communications for the bath, it is important to do all pipelines as short as possible. Otherwise for defrosting outdoor metal pipes It is worth using a gas burner, with which the ice plug is slightly warmed up. If the drain pipes are deeply underground, then you need to pour salted boiling water and periodically check the system.

Heat roofing bath

Significant heat loss in the bath occur through the roof. Cold air enters the steam room with an insufficiently correct or inefficient insulation of the attic. In this case, you need to explore the ceiling inside the bath and design in the attic. All discovered gaps close up by mounting foam. Too thin layer of insulation should be supplemented, as well as ensure the presence of hydro and vaporizolation layers.

With roof insulation, high-quality materials are used.

The presence of a attic provides an additional insulation of the bath, as there is an air layer. In any case, the roof requires timely repairs, eliminating gaps and insulation.

Replacing the lower vents

The lower crowns of the bath design are exposed to strong moisture and climatic factors. As a result, they quickly rotate and the building is destroyed. Therefore, during the construction, the lower crowns make from larch, which from moisture becomes only harder. In other situations, it is required to replace the elements. If you cannot fix the crowns in a timely manner and not repaired, the bath turns, cracks are formed in the walls and the construction will fall apart.

Bathrooms can be made of larch or oak

Replacing the lower crowns can be partial or complete. The first option is optimal in case of damage only to some elements, for example, in the drain area or slope. The complete replacement is necessary with a strong destruction of the structure. The procedure requires a thorough organization, and the work complex is as follows:

1. From the bath you need to make all the items and furniture, remove the glass from the window frames and doors. If the lags are lying into the lower crown, then the coating is disassembled. Chimney is separated from the ceiling, which will prevent damage to the roof;
2. The crowns that do not require replacement are fixed. For this, about 50 cm are retreating from the corners of the building and nourish the vertically brus of 40 mm. The lower ends of the bars are fixed on the wenches of the second level, and the upper nourishes to the most recent elements;
3. Srub bandage - two logs fastened by an angular connection. We define which logs will be top in the replaceable crown. For them and jacks will be recorded. From the corner in the foundation you need to retreat 1 m and knock out the opening of a width of 40 cm. In front of this, the outlet should be cut part of the log of the lower crown. As a result, the overall height of the niche is sufficient to install the jack. On two opposite walls, 2 niches are also cut on the same distance from the corners. The jacks are fixed, and their number is 2-4 pieces. So you can raise or all the building, or alternately every wall. If you install 4 jack, then the skew will be less. Jacks resting to the upper logs of dressings, you need to lift the log house for 7-10 cm;
4. The lower logs are removed and recorded temporary support bars. Jacks are lowered, the top logs of the replaceable crown also go down and remove them. Install new elements and pressed by jacks. Temporary supports are removed and change the following lower elements. All jacks are synchronously lowered, close up the gaps between new and old logs.

Replacing the lower crowns of the bath requires physical effort. Therefore, the repair of the structure cannot be carried out alone with their own hands.

Bath repair requires good training

The technology of replacement of elements of the Bani chub is simple, but it is important to prepare in advance qualitative material, Tools, fixtures.

Alignment: do-it-yourself repair

Wooden designs are distinguished by what they require right mounting Taking into account the characteristics of the wood. During the construction of the bath, simple rules are not always observed, which leads to deformation of surfaces and design as a whole.

Swimming lining

Incorrect installation, high source moisture of wood, accumulation of moisture behind the trim, the wrong operation of the bath leads to bloating, from which is made internal sheathing. The same result leads insufficient ventilation.

To avoid deformation, it is important to follow the rules

The following works are carried out to eliminate irregularities:

1. Removal of uneven elements and located next to them ordinary parts;
2. You need to make sure it is to properly organize the insulation of the walls. Otherwise, the complete arrangement of hydro and vaporizolation is required;
3. Installation of the lining is carried out neatly, by connecting spikes in the groove.

Docking the lining should not be dense, as wood is expanding under the influence of moisture. And also it is necessary to provide ventilation gap between the trim and insulation of the walls.

Fixing Sruba

Long operation, incorrect installation of a chub on the ground, high humidity, the movement of the soil lead to the curvature of the structure. Often the building is beveled only for one side, which allows you to correct the situation.

Curvature of a church possible for various reasons

Bath alignment technology is similar to the method of replacing the lower crowns. At the same time comply with such rules as:

• set minimum 2 jacks;
• facilitating the building, that is, removal of furniture and other items from the inside;
• jacks raise gradually;
• at once the height of the rise should not exceed 5 cm;
• under the shaking crowns, you need to put a new support, boards.

The log alignment technique depends on the type of foundation to which the bath is installed. In any case, the design is aligned or tightened with metal corners.

Video: Replacing floor boards in the bath

Bath repair with your own hands allows you to make the design unique and reliable. Compliance with the rules and elimination of the causes of the problems arising are mandatory stages.

maja-dacha.ru.

We repair a bath with your own hands - how to remove mold, get rid of resin and other problems, resolution with photos, tips and video

Bath, like all the construction on cottage plot, needs constant care, without which it will quickly collapse. Lower the lower crowns and the floor can be filled with winter and water pipes in winter, fungus and ancient vertoon appear. Therefore, it will be possible to repair the baths with your own hands.

What problems may occur during the operation of a wooden sauna

All problems are directly related to the materials that are used to build it.

How to get rid of the resin that is distinguished from the tree

Wood for the bath should be easy to process and caring, moisture-proof, not inclined to cracking that does not emit resin. But for walls, doors and furniture (in rare cases) in a Russian steam room, where the temperature is lower than in the sauna, coniferous rocks are suitable. The log house made of a pine and fir-fir-cylindered log will be separated by resin at a constant effect.

The only way to get rid of it is to methodically consider the spatula with each bathing bath. Then after a few months, the resin will become less, and after the year of operation, it will no longer stand out.

The selection of a resin made of a pine ceiling board is a natural phenomenon

How to wash ordinary dirt

After some time, the bathroom furniture, head restraints, the walls of the walls and the ceiling will darken, it will become porous, the dried dirt will appear - the products separated by man (dead cells, sweat, fat), traces of the bath perfumery and essential oils will appear. It also applies to the outer walls of the bath, only there is the cause of atmospheric phenomena: rain, snow, winds carrying dirt and dust.

Traditional old sauna has a pre-equipment without cosmetic processing

In rustic baths before interior walls We regularly scrolled with a knife, removing the upper, dirty layer. But this is a very labor-intensive occupation that does not give a full result. The outer walls of the bath before did not clean at all.

Traditional old steam room meant the use of wood without processing

Now the bathrooms after each use must be thoroughly wash with the help of special modern detergents.

But this is not all suitable for this, because some of them will not wash off, and they can give undesirable evaporation. There is a large assortment of detergents for baths.

Table: Means that will help clean the bath from dirt

SUPI SAUNAPESU disinfection detergent, whitens, dissolves lime salts

How to clean the walls and ceiling from soot and soot

With many years of work of the furnace on the walls, the ceiling and the furniture pair sits down the black bold soot. This is fine graphite.

Launched soot on the steam wall is very difficult to remove

It is very difficult to delete it. Therefore, as a preventive tool, you must regularly pay attention to the work of your oven.

But if for some reason you cannot affect the deposition of the soot on the walls, it is necessary to regularly delete it. It is impossible to wash off the raid. First, you need a dry cleaning of a vacuum cleaner so that with moisture soot and the soot particles do not penetrate deep into the tree. Yes, and wash off with a solution of a conventional cleaning agent such a tax to the end is impossible, so you need to apply special chemical compositions. For example, the water washout of the soot and soot of Mazbit + based on alkaline components (it is called "for cleaning the premises from the effects of fire"). But it is necessary to use it with caution, besides very carefully flush.

Mazbit + water wash on the basis of pitch components perfectly cope with soot and soot

How to handle walls and shelves Parilov from fungus and mold

If you wrap up when buying a contaminated board or log, then fungus and mold while in conditions of constant dampness later can spread to all parts of the built bath. A mucise appears on the surface, it is extremely difficult to derive it.

There are other reasons for the appearance of this problem:

• incorrect warming of a bath, resulting in condensate (from the ceiling and walls begins to drip);
• poor-quality wipelasaw of logs and foundation;
• poor ventilation steam and washer;
• regular insufficient drying of the room after operation.

Conditions that are created in a wet and hot steam room are ideal for the development of mold.

The fungus on the log cabin appears due to constant high humidity

Black fungus is dangerous for human health. It provokes the development of tumors, allergies, can stimulate headache and rhinitis. Some of its species cause even bronchial asthma, generalized mycosis, pneumonia and myocarditis. It is impossible to just shock the amazed plot, it needs to be treated.

Black mold under the microscope looks awesome

If you have problems with thermal insulation, there are drafts, then in such a bath there may be a woody mold mushroom.

Mold mushroom - frequent phenomenon on the tree

If the mushrooms and mold do not remove all kinds completely, they will spread and simply destroy the bath. there is simple solutions This problem:

Examples of anti-grab compositions of industrial production - Biotol, Dufa, Metas Bio, Ceresit, Neomid-Bio, Dali, Prosept 50.

The anti-GRIBER composition of industrial production ProsEpt 50 copes excellent with its task

When you are sure that you completely cleaned your bath from the fungus, dry it. And henceforth carefully follow its condition and appearance.

What to do to not appear black and rotting surfaces inside the sauna

Rotiation is a serious lack of wood. This destruction of cellulose when exposed to microorganisms that appear and multiply with high humidity. Temperature exacerbates the process. In the bath, rotting is most susceptible to the floor, withstanding water flows. The only way to solve the problem is to remove damaged areas of wood and replace them.

Wood rotting is almost impossible to prevent

Bathroom Care Rules

Most of these problems can be avoided.

Why resin is allocated

Pine and spruce lumber must be perfect quality, without a single bitch, because mostly they are exactly the gate for the resin secreted.

Baths are not suitable boards with cracks, knots and blue

The material must be preloaded and dried and dried, then the extraction of the resin will be reduced to a minimum.

Pine board need to choose almost without defects

How to prevent the appearance of fungus and rot

You need to carefully examine all the sawn timber you acquire. Amazed by fungus or rotten tree is immediately visible. If you notice copies with black or blue, it will be advisable to refer to another supplier. The likelihood is that the entire party is amazed, even if the fungus is noticeable not on all boards and bricnos.

It is better to buy a forest conceded in winter. Frost will not give the fungus in the wood. And necessarily before use and after the assembly, wooden elements need to be treated with antifungal impregnation.

Fungus on a cut log is visible immediately

Apply impregnation

This tool can save from many problems associated with the operation of the bath. For a modern busy person who does not want to use impregnation, there are only two ways to avoid the appearance of dirt:

• it is rare to use the bath or let it in it a small number of people (and it is good to dry it every time);
• every two or three years fully change furniture, cladding on the ceiling and walls (but this method is not suitable for everyone).

The first thing to be done still at the construction stage is to use high-quality impregnation for outdoor and internal surfaces. It is able to protect the tree from atmospheric precipitation, temperature drops, heating and high humidity without harm to humans, and at the same time protect the bath from the vertices, fungus and rot.

The fans of a healthy lifestyle assure that the wooden surfaces inside the bath does not only need to be processed, but also harmful. They believe that impregnation and paint and varnish coatings during heating give a sharp chemical smell and distinguish harmful volatile substances. This is true, if you use ordinary tools that are not intended for use in the bath. But if you leave the tree at an initial form, it cracks, and the fungus multiplies in the slots and micropores.

Those impregnating means, which are suitable for the ceiling, can not always be used to handle furniture. And they are very different means for outdoor cutting.

Domestic ("Sezheng", "Neomid", "Belinka", "Aquololor", "Empils", "Rogned") and foreign (Dulux, Tikkurila, Nobel, Belinka, Teknos) producers of varnishes and paints produce many means for internal and external impregnations.

External impregnation of bar

Funds for external impregnation are divided into industrial and private use. The first (pyropotic, strong antiseptic, insecticidal) wood is processed in the preparation of the forest to construction.

Be sure to need to handle it again after the construction of a chub, while the tree has not been exposed to atmospheric precipitation, not contaminated.

Inner impregnation

The means for internal impregnation are two types:

• for the surfaces to which we do not touch the body (for example, the ceiling);
• for the surfaces with which the human body contacts.

The latest requirements are much higher, especially to coatings for bathing furniture, which should not form the burning lacquer film. Sex impregnation should not slide, and must withstand regular wet cleaning.

For bathing furniture, agents with water-repellent natural substances of the type of paraffin, wax, butter, perfectly protecting the surface, which are harmless to humans are used.

Impregnation eurotex "Sauna" harmless to humans

Specificity of the application of protective compositions:

1. The first applying is made immediately after the manufacture of furniture on the dry and clean surface or before construction.
2. The remedy needs to be evenly distributed with a sponge, soft cloth or brush. Because of the thick consistency, the paintopult does not suit.
3. After drying the first layer, those places that will be subject to maximum load, such as seats, headrests, walls in the regiment region, need to be processed again.
4. Then the bath is soapped. When heated, the excess impregnation must be released, not absorbed due to the saturation of the tree. It is simply wiped with rags.

Application impregnation on internal objects can occur with a sponge, brush, cloth

How to warm the bath in order not to appear condensate

When a properly designed and built bath, good capital doors and windows there is no need for additional insulation. But often such problems still make themselves known when operating. Several troubles may happen:

• draft and insufficient pairing temperature;
• cold floor;
• frosting of entrance doors;
• freezing of plum and pipes.

Draft and insufficient pairing temperature

Theoretically, during the construction of a church, you had to put it from punck between logs, and then carefully cross the grooves.

Correct is a mandatory stage of construction of a bath

The bathroom device also needed to be done by all the rules, with insulation with clay.

But if it was done with a violation of technology, the bath scare from time to time, and the gaps were formed, then you need to carefully view the walls and doors outside and from the inside, especially carefully checking the corners. Surely you will find the places somewhere, from where it is warm. Then they can be processed once again outside and inside, pushing the jute tape into the gap and cover it with a similar cord.

The jute set for cauldium consists of a ribbon and cord

If you failed to find such seats, you will have to agree that thermal insulation properties Walls, ceiling, floor and doors lack, and you need to warm the bath completely.

Wall insulation may be external and internal. In the first case, the bath is silent:

• vaporizolation material, for example, foam;
• insulation (good in that quality long-fiber mineral wool, her sheets are put on the brass, or insulating mats of Penoen);
• waterproofing material (rubkeroid);
• clapboard, siding or block mobile.

Foam, made of foamed polyethylene, resistant to rotting, and is environmentally safe. Parosolation protects the insulation from the formation of condensate in it. Waterproofing prevents wetting outside.

Inner insulation on the same principle, only the skin must necessarily be natural tree Like parhed pine or birch.

Internal bleat bath is carried out similarly to external

The ceiling must also be inspired.

The insulation of the ceiling has its own characteristics.

Cold floor

The freezing floor is necessarily insulating. It will be necessary to abandon the idea of \u200b\u200ba direct drain device. In this case, it is better to make the only plums.

The inner warming of the walls of the bathroom is extremely rare

What to do if the entrance door begins to freeze

If the door is frightened in winter, it means it is not insulating enough. There are two solutions to the problem:

• replace the door;
• warm it.

The second way is most often used. If you have a frame door, you need to disassemble, put mineral wool and re-assemble. If it is made of a t-board board, you need to put a sandwich from wool and plywood on outside.

Drain system It is one of the important baths of the bath. It is necessary to do it immediately after the foundation device, before the construction of a log, simultaneously with the insulation of the sample. In the old baths, the drain went straight through the boarding floor to the ground, so the building was put on a natural slope.

Bath Scheme with Single Bath System

Now such a drain is banned, but this idea is often used in steam room, and in the washing. The stock is organized through the entire floor or assembled at one point where the lattice-lattice is installed.

In no case cannot be connected to a common septic, that it will simply choose because of the volleary baths of discharges. You need to dig separate drain pit.

And then problems may arise. The main cause of winter fire freezing is wrong drain pipe. If it has a small tilt or lies wavely, the problems will necessarily arise. The tilt should be at least 2 cm on 1 m pipe, otherwise the water will be stamped. With wave-like laying in the lower bends, a liquid remains, which freezes, and the chain reaction occurs. In addition, if the slope is small, it may happen to the usual blockage, which is why the water is stirred and freezes. Therefore, pipes are preferably laying below the duration of the fruit of the soil.

For a bath you need to put a separate septic

But even when these conditions are met, the length of the discharge pipe should not be more than 5 m without insulation and 15 m with insulation. Lode in volume by 10% more water, and therefore can break the pipes.

Lode can cause a pipe break

If trouble happened, and the pipes were frozen, you need to immediately take steps to defrost. For this:

As soon as the pipe has frozen, and the fluid starts the movement, you need to immediately, not turning off the water, dig and insulate the pipe with an escape, mineral Vata., foam "shell".

Warm pipe can be foam casing

How to replace the bottom crowns do it yourself

The lower crowns are the weakest place of the bath. Of course, you need to make a maximum of construction to prevent their rot.

Preventive measures against the rotten crown

Prevent rotting is much easier than changing the lower crowns. Therefore, it is worth remembering the preventive measures:

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the lower crowns of the Russian bath

If the trouble happened, and the lower crowns fired, they can be replaced. Depending on the degree of damage, a partial or complete replacement will be required.

How to renovate the lower crown

If the lower crowns are not completely damaged, then you can remove and change only some of them, following the plan:

How to completely change big brica

If logs rotted in several places, it is recommended to carry out its complete replacement. For this you need careful preparatory workSince the entire log house with this process will shift:

1. It is necessary to remove window frames and doors, remove the souls. Release furniture. Disassemble the floor, but only if the lags are embedded in those birings that need to be removed.
2. Disassemble the design of the chimney so that space remains between it and the roof. Otherwise, the structures of the furnace design can not be avoided, and the roof may also be damaged.
3. Log's log cabin fix four screeds from all sides on each wall.

It is necessary to determine which two of the four logs of a rotten crown top. Under them and you need to put jacks. Replacement sequence:

What if the log house began to mow: step-by-step instruction repair

If your bath is made of clean, the unwinted cut visually looks like a curved, or if, when it seems to be straight walls, their trim inside or from the outside (at the same time it can appear), this means that the soil sewn occurred on one of the corners of the foundation or the deformation of the church itself . For alignment, you need to use jacks.

Domkrats under the lower crown of a church must be reliably fixed

The process consists of several steps:

1. The covering is completely removed, the thermal insulation can not be touched, but you can only reinforce the log cabin.
2. Doors, windows, souls are removed, the entire furniture is pulled out.
3. Roofing around the chimney and the floor near the furnace.
4. Jacks are summed up, first under the sensory part. Raising each of them little by little, the bath is lying in a plunder or a hydrorer. You can then make the strapping with a metal chaserler to create an additional rigidity.
5. Then the bath is rebuilt again, all disassembled nodes are restored.

Video: Replacing the crown of a bath

You learned much of what you will need for long and trouble-free operation. wooden bath on the household site.

grounde.ru.

How to get rid of resin on boards?

Interior made of natural wood It looks very solid, presentable, gently and nice. Especially valuable material of coniferous rocks, which also in the course of operation contributes to the natural recovery of all residents of the house. But there is one problem that occurs when laying coniferous wood - how to get rid of the resin on the boards, which must be solved correctly. It is about this that will be discussed in this article.

1. The boards in the places of leakage of the resin becomes extremely sticky and quickly close with any tools and materials that come into contact.
2. Usually, the situations of the "Allows" look somewhat darker than the whole board, so the coating uniformity cannot be achieved.
3. Staining to perform with a flowing substance is impossible, and even unprofitable. The paint or varnish will not stick on the stains of the resin, respectively - there will be convex, unprotected from the destructive impact of moisture, separated by their color of the coating.

To content

What you need to know about the resin?

Removing the resin is better to perform only after the grinding of the board is performed. Although compliance with this rule will not be a guarantee that "Zhivitsa" will not show itself again. Sometimes such a substance begins to appear under the influence of certain factors after the completion of finishing works. This factor must be taken into account before to give preference to the coniferous finish of the house.

Mechanical removal

In this case, to remove the resin from the boards, it is necessary to wait for the complete pouring of the fluid mass. Then, armed with a knife, shoot every piece manually.

Important! After removing all unwanted influx, it is necessary to glue the wood surface with a sandpaper or a special tool.

Solvents

For dissolving "Zhivitsa" can also be used primary chemistry. Suitable for this purpose such funds:

• alcohol;
• white Spirit;
• turpentine;
• purified gasoline;
• acetone;
• nitro-solvent.

Important! The use of any of these solvents does not affect the structure and shade of coniferous wood. But when used, it is desirable to protect yourself with gloves, a respirator so that caustic volatile pairs will not provoke skin irritation and mucous membranes.

Effectively help solve the problem such methods:

• Summer or ammonia solution. Such a means is diluted with acetone in a proportion of 2: 1. Apply to the surface with rubbing movements before the formation of foam. The remains of foam and resin remove minutes after 20 pure damp rag.
• Potash and soda in equal proportions (50 g). Both substances are mixed and poured 1 l hot water. To enhance the action you can add 250 ml of acetone.
• Caustic soda. It is dissolved in half liters of cold water. You can also add 250 ml of solvent such as acetone.

Important! Any of these means is permissible to apply only to the polished, but not painted surface. Otherwise, acetone will solure paint and look already ready finish It will be far from the most attractive way.

• 25 g of wood or any liquid soapmixed with 50 ml of ammonia and 1 l hot water;
• acetic solution of concentrated acid and water in a ratio of 1:50.

Important! The last tool is also well suited in order to remove the residues of alkalis after applying any other substance or solution to get rid of the resin on the boards. It helps perfectly, including when the finished walls are laundered and it is necessary to remove the remnants of the curetling of the shots of the crowns.

In this case, you can burn all the seats of the formation of wood coniferous juice by a soldering lamp, reading them later by the sandpaper of a suitable degree of grain.

Having preferred a coniferous board, remember that you will not be able to completely get rid of the resin on the boards. She can stick to any, the most unexpected moment for you. But this is not really such a global problem, because it is possible to remove the "Zhivitsa", and the beauty, environmental purity and the benefits of such wood do not compare any modern plastic or other material. Let your home be filled with only a pleasant aroma of needles and look always cozy. A C. small problems Resins You now know how to cope.

Your heart freezes at the moment when you find a wood resin on your car, and this is not only because your brilliant car is now the Spatter, but also because of the prospects of that work that will be required to remove the resin. Cleaning the car from the resin is a tedious process, in the process of which you can scratch the paint of the car, and you will not be able to get rid of the ordinary car wash. Nevertheless, there are several ways to remove resin from the car, which will significantly simplify this difficult task. Use one of the methods proposed below and return the clean, brilliant surface to your car.

Steps

Car wash with soap and hot water

If possible, we immediately wash the car. The longer a resin or any other similar substance (which also includes bird litter or insects) remain on the surface of the vehicle, the more difficult to remove them later. Rapidly taken measures contribute to the use of the smallest amount of effort and lead to best success In obtaining a shining car exterior.

Sighten your car with clean water. Thinking in this way the car, you remove most of the pollution and see the places that will later have to pay special attention.

• Take the time for a complete car wash, even if the wood resin is not on the entire surface. You will get even greater pleasure after removing the resin when your car at the end of the process is also clean and brilliant. Moreover, all accessories for the start of washing are ready to use.

1. Wipe the surface with a microfiber with a cloth in hot soapy water. Use hot water of such a temperature, which is possible, since the strength of the resin adhesion is weakened by the influence of hot water.

   • Before using other resin removal methods, try to start cleaning your car with very hot water. If the resin is removed, then you coped. If the resin still remained, then you will have a clean surface on which other methods can be tried.
   • Wash your pure cloth and often rinse it, leaning any contamination and wood resin from it. The use of a dirty cloth will only smear all this porridge on the surface of your car.

2. Rinse the surface several times. Washing and purified from pollution area will allow you to see if you manage to work with work, or you need to apply even more effort to remove the resin.

   Dry and soda the surface of your car immediately after removing the resin. You removed the resin, but at the same time you wash off the wax that protected the surface of the car. Apply the wax wax to your car or read the articles on how to grasp your car if you didn't do this before.

   Thrite with circular movements surface over the resin to remove it from the surface. Do it without fanatism if you do not want to lose the resin over the entire surface of the car.

   Complete the car wash process and rubbing it with wax. Re-wash helps to remove residues of the resin or the solvent used. After you were convinced that your car shines again in all its glory, it is recommended to update its protective wax coating.

There is a certain category of difficult to display spots, which includes contamination with resin. These stains are sticky and frozen very quickly, so clean them is not easy, it usually concerns the solar spots. Many, when looking at the drill, the resins are lowered hands, but using the tips below, you can easily clean the clothes or various surfaces from resin.

Exist different types Resin, since this term denotes a whole group of substances solid under normal conditions and softening when heated. Machines are most often polluted by bitumen - composition, which is used during road asphalting, and clothing can be swapped on a string of a resin released from the bark of trees. In the latter case, the stains often remain unnoticed, and when they are detected, the thing is or sent to the far shelf or throw out. It should not be done, since resin spots can be cleaned, with different methods.

How to clean the resin from the fabric

How to clean the resin from the tree

To finish the saunas and bath, a tree is always used, and often at first, the resin is released from it. These drips look not very aesthetic, so you can try to eliminate them.

It should be known that the resin output can occur not at a time, so if the pine boards are new and resin made them, then you can wait for a while, and after the resin is discontinued, you can begin to remove stains.

It is possible to remove the resin from the tree with a chisel, a spatula or a knife, and then wipe this place with turpentine or Whitepite. If the resins are a lot, and the wooden surface is smooth, can be used to remove the spots of the resin grinding machine.

How to remove resin from metal

This problem is familiar to motorists who had to ride the recently asphalted roads. After that, spots and drums of resin (bitumen) remain on the surface of the body. If they dried, then it is very difficult to remove them, so such pollution needs to be removed as quickly as possible.

• Since dust and various contaminants are settled on the body, with rubbing resin stains, these particles can turn into abrasive and the spot will remain on the spot. To avoid it, before the start of the car body is carefully wash.
• Next on the spots of the resin apply special compositions To remove bitumen - Decabit, Sonax, Antysilicone, etc. Some also use whitespirite, solvent or diesel fuel.
• After removing the stains of the body place, it is necessary to polish to return them to them.

It is important when removing any resin stains to follow the safety regulations: protect your hands with gloves or special cream, work in a well-ventilated room without possible sources of fire.

Removal of wood resin from surfaces is a difficult and irritable occupation, especially with deck boards. However, there are many light ways and efficient removal of resin. The following methods include the use of household goods that can be purchased in ordinary stores.

Alcohol

For example, a common homemade means to remove the resin from the SPRIT surfaces that acts as a solvent to dissolve the resin and in the end to dissolve it. Wait fifteen minutes before you clean the resin brush, then rinse the surface.

Solvent

For removal of wood resin also use a special solvent for the deck board. Just apply a stripper with a brush on the affected areas in the direction of the wood pattern. Give the tool to absorb ten-fifteen minutes, then read the resin. As a bonus, most solvents are easily flushed with water, so no chemicals damage the environment.

Soap

Alternatively, the removal of resin by chemical means, many prefer to use a unwanted oil soap. The resin is written with a mop or the solution is poured directly to the affected area. As in the case of other wood resin cleaners, the tool must impregnate the surface of about fifteen minutes, after that, the area can be washed along the tree pattern and wipe the clean, dry cloth. Since this is a solution on an oil basis, it will soften juice, which will simplify its removal.

Cleaner for cement

You can also try to use the cement cleaner. Unlike other methods of removal of wood resin, this means do not need to be absorbed into the tree. Mineral alcohols are also suitable for the removal of wood resin. Cleaning the area to the means, rinse it thoroughly, then wipe again with a versatile cleaning agent and wash the water again.

Turpentine

Skipidar is also suitable for removing wood resin from a deck board. This method is fast and efficient. Because The turpentine can harm the existing finish, it should be used carefully and small quantities. A small amount of the means is enough to absorb resin. The region should be cleaned with a rough brush. The disadvantage of the use of turpentor is that it can leave a fat stain on the tree. In addition, turpentine is not environmentally friendly, as it does not dissolve in water.