Low cost chipboard, high performance features, the versatility of application made them very popular material. The most frequent scope of application - furniture manufacturing and construction. The main enemy of these plates is water - the chips increases in the amount, the stove swells, it brends and crushes.

At the very beginning of the production of sawdust and chips after drying, they are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing the surface of the slabs is laminated, sometimes even lacquer.

But the surface protection does not save from the penetration of moisture ends, through which it enters inside. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the plate. Consequently, from liquid penetration during operation, it is necessary to save the first ends. If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the plates will increase.

Why exactly the ends are the starting platform for destruction? Yes, because the production of the plates of the necessary standard sizesEqually, as well as the preparation of different magnesium pieces of material requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is disturbed.

In this way, protection of chipboard From moisture is carried out by three directions:

• impregnation of wood fibers resins;
• special surface treatment;
• sealing ends.

The first step along the path of moisture resistance

Already at the beginning production of chipboard The process is carried out to protect them from the penetration of water - the so-called shavy routine. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - the saturation of the fibers of resins and their gluing. For most of the plates manufactured, formaldehyde resins are used, already by definition that are a hydrophobic component of the product.

In cases where there is still a large moisture resistance from the plates, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea and amelaminic. It glues the shavips much more stronger, thereby being a stronger obstacle on the path of moisture. With additional introduction to a chip carpet of molten paraffin or its emulsion, moisture resistance More increases.

Treatment of surface plates

The facial and reverse surface of the plate, as the largest square of contact, without any protection can skip through themselves and soak up, respectively, the greatest number liquids. It will not be superfluous to cover these planes with something moisture proof. Some of the ways of such a coverage are possible only in factory conditions, some - and home.

One of the main protection methods is lamination. With it on the polished chipboard at high pressure And the melamine film is placed in a large temperature. The essence of this process is not in pressing, but in the fact that in these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the plate, becoming one with it one.

There is another way performed in the factory conditions - this is a caring. It also uses pressure and heating, but more gentle. Already culled film pressed to the coated with a glue plate. If the lamination is a chemical process, then the combination is mechanical.

At home, a non-aluminated chipboard is covered to protect multiple layers of paint. Before painting the surface is pre-treated:

• from the surface, dust swears and erases;
• for the first fold plate, the hot oil is launched;
• next, this is done by the cold olphoi before the formation of the outer crust;
• painting is made on top. For any ways to paint, it is necessary to remember that each subsequent paint layer is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several more ways to protect against fling. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical exposure, it can be protected like this: rub the stearin, then heat the hairdryer. Give cool, and repeat it a couple more times. Or: one part of the bitumen varnish is prevented with five parts of the oil. The coating is carried out twice.

Treatment of joints and edges

Water is always looking for the lowest place, deepening. And what, if not deepening, are the joints on horizontal planes? Especially many such joints in the cabinet furniture, which is performed just from the chipboard. Kitchen furniture is generally like on advanced: and water with excess, and evaporation is enough. Most exposed to moisture washing, wardrobe with drying, countertop, furniture near and over the kitchen stove.

Cranes all once begin to leak. So in the car wash the most promising dangerous place Where the mixer is crashed in the worktop. This is the place of contact of the metal and wood. Perhaps not only the leakage of the crane, but also the condensation of water at the point of contact. Therefore, this place is cleaned, dried with a hairdryer. Next is applied by a layer of PVA glue, after drying Silicone. It is possible a building sealant, it is also a silicone mass, it even from the flow window Rama Sealish.

In the kitchen cabinet, check the presence or absence of a pallet: if it is not, then the liquid, stacking to the bottom of the locker, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniture, where it is possible to wet, you need to take yourself as a rule: degrease this place and then do not regret the sealant.

For seams of seams, it is better to use the sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

Narmuminized edges of the table top are closed by connecting or end planks. They are metal or plastic. The defense is not so, so pre-end the countertops should be treated with silicone. Another way of protection is to apply a cut-off lacquer or pva glue. Offered building market self-adhesive film or scotch reliable protection It is impossible to name.

Inserting the joints of the chipboard on the floor

The difficulty lies in the fact that the plates are constantly exposed to significant physical exertion, they "play" relative to each other. For this reason, the shtatlevka does not want to keep. There are several people's methods Sealing such seams.

The seams are smeared with epoxy mixed with sawdust. Sawdles are pre-sifted. The composition is collapsed very quickly, so immediately a large amount of such smelting should not be harvested. Such protection serves a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and seams are expensive.

It is possible to replace the epoxy of hot joinery glue. It is necessary to mix in it sawdust and walk along the seams.

The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since hot glue penetrates deep into. This method and moisture saves, and the joke stops "playing". True, several days for this floor, it is advisable not to walk, as the joinery is driving long.

It costs such a way much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum, then about damage plate chipboard In general, you can forget.

Adhesive tape prevents splitting the surface layer of the plate during sawing. Manual saw Need to post with a maximum tilt.

Protective edge - sad sight. Especially she rushes into the eyes on the plates painted in white.

The chips and the artificial resin create a strong compound when pressing, but with a certain processing, the chips can split. For example, on the edge of the cut, at the site of drilling, when planing and processing the rashpil. Fibers natural tree Long and tighter connected with each other. That is why you need to turn more carefully with a chipboard.

How to cut the chipboard

For these purposes, almost any saw will suit. Just lead it under very sharp angle To the surface of the plate, that is, attaching the saw almost flat to the surface. Disk and inuchic saw blade with a slight feed, only slightly pressed. It will also reduce the risk of forming a breaking line of the cut. It is desirable, of course, to use a saw with the most small teeth. Adhesive tape can also become additional protection, which is pulled along the cut slicer line. This is usually recommended for wood coated chipboard.

Another advice: saw, not in a hurry. Excessive hasty can lead to such a result that uneven, with chips, the edge of one part forms an ugly joint on the other. By the way, the coating can be protected from splitting, if you cut it off with a sharp knife - the deeper, the better.

Drilling, Rashpil Processing and Planing

Dumb or working with limited drill speed, as a rule, split the edges of the drilled hole. Only pickup good drillAnd correctly leading the tool, you can avoid damage.

With a smooth, pure cut, additional processing will not need. But the disk saw can leave the irregularities that you need to remove the rasp or the plane.

Raspil (or plans) lead along the edge carefully, as when working with a tree, and from outside To the inner, so that the chips did not break down, and the edge after the stripping did not seem even more inaccier.

For plates covered with film, the plates are suitable. The one who works with the plane seems too difficult, can take advantage of a file.

Surface treatment

There are two ways decorative processing The surfaces of the products made of wood and wood-chipboard - the coating of varnish or facing. Varnish covered, as a rule, wooden surfaces, chipboard from aesthetic considerations - extremely rarely, only when it is necessary to "reflect" not very impressive appearance Plates or finished products.

Before coating, the surface should be placed.

Even with a polished factory, the surface of the chipboard must be placed and grind, before applying lacquer on it. Tiny, barely noticeable damage can clearly manifest itself under the lacquer film, and it will only worsen the appearance of the product.

Putty are applied evenly with a spatula, and after drying, the surface is treated emery paper. The result of this preparatory work There should be an absolutely smooth surface, and then there is enough single layer of varnish to form a flawless film.

If after application of the varnish, some errors were discovered, then before re-coating the surface should be slightly polished with sandpaper.

Glue coat.

Choosing coatings for chipboard is very large. Who has special requests relative to the color, it is better to use the film.

Films are produced in wide color gamma and with a variety of decor, besides, they are usually treated with adhesive composition, which simplifies works on the decoration of the plates. Since the film coating is very thin, then the carrier surface must be pre-polished before pulling the film.

Sheet layered plastic, thicker and more wear-resistant. It is glued special gluewhich is applied to the carrier surface of the slab and on the coating.

The coating of layered plastic makes a chipboard attractive and simultaneously protects it from various influences.

Surface protection

If you bought or made furniture made of chipboard, the composition of which is unknown to you, it is better to take additional measures to protect your health.

Protection with varnish.

Formaldehyde evaporation can be stopped by applying a new coating on the furniture. This layer should be thick enough. Thus, the lacquer coating, at least two layers prevents further evaporation of formaldehyde.

Films and leaf layered plastic also protect the surface. Here you need to pay attention to the joints: they should be more dense.

The protective material can be a plywood, but not any. Some types of plywood are made using adhesive compositionin which all the same formaldehyde is present. Therefore, it is desirable and to handle - cover with varnish.

Matter and wallpaper.

Absolutely inappropriate material for protection against formaldehyde isolation are matter and wallpapers. They are porous and therefore cannot serve as reliable protection.

Carpet, as well as glue used during its laying, can also highlight formaldehyde. If the relevant services during the inspection discovered an increased concentration of evaporation dangerous to health, it is necessary to find out exactly which material is the source before accuseing all the chipboard and begin the new processing of their surface.

Edbles

The edge is applied narrow strip of plastic. Iron contributes to gluing.

The slice of chipboard looks not very beautiful, and, more importantly, it exposes the loose, the most vulnerable inner layer. Also, when the edge of the cut may be damaged and severely pressure. Therefore, the edge must be protected.

The simplest, but in most cases there is quite reliable protection - gluing with a not highly heated iron plastic ribbon. from adhesive coating or veneer plate.

Planks made of wood.

The edges of the slab subjected to the greatest loads need to be better protected. Ensure it will help thin planks made of wood. In color, they must be harmonized with coated plate. After gluing the plank, separately or together with the stove, you need to cover with varnish or some other protective composition.

Even a 5-mm plank is an effective edge protection. A wider bar will also prevent the bending of the stove.

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Due to the simplicity of processing and excellent consumer qualities today is one of the most massively used in furniture production. Modern technological processes make it possible to obtain from chips and composite resin is quite high quality and convenient to use material.

However, the chipboard has its own specifics of use, which dictates some conditions for its processing. For example, this stove can crumble and split with severe physical effects, and, much in more thanthan ordinary wood. The fact is that woody fibers present in the array of natural solid wood are, as it were, a binding element that attach additional strength to the entire board.

In the DSP, these fibers are destroyed, therefore such a stove requires several other conditions for use and circulation.

How to solve chipboard

If there is no power tool at hand, practically any saw for sawing chipboard. The only thing that should be observed when the saw is - try to keep the saw almost flat with respect to the surface of the slab. So the stove will smash less when the sawing, and the slice will be careful.

Disk saw or electric logsikOf course, they will show themselves in this business more productive tools. The only wishes at the same time - the instrument is not too fast, only slightly pressing. However, the speed of rotation disc saw And the jigsaw move is better to keep at a high level. It is best for having such a material will suit sawmill or canvas S. small toothSo you can avoid coloring the material and the appearance of an uneven edge.

It is clear that the sharper Mila, the cleaner turns out. Additionally, protect the edge from coloring, if you use the greasy tape, glued on the cut line. This is especially true when sawing chipboard with decorative coating.

For treatment of chipboard With decorative (for example, laminated), the coating should not be hurry, it is better to cut slowly, not allowing chips. Another way to protect the coating from chips is to cut it off with a pre-sharp knife.

Drills, we have plaschers and process rasp

With the drilling and planing of the chipboard, everything is exactly the same as with a sawing - a stupid or slowly moving tool will split and crumble the material. Thus, the drilling drill will rock the edges of the hole in order to get smooth high-quality holes, it should be with full responsibility to approach the choice of a drilling tool. Serve the drill during operation is needed smoothly and not too fast, so you can improve the quality of drilling.

Small irregularities that obtained on a cutting plate as a result of sawmills can be eliminated using a plane or a rashpile. The tool will go along the edge smoothly and carefully, following so that it does not work in the same time.

If the chipboard being processed has a film coating, to plan it the edge better than the plane. If you do not have the skills of working with this tool, you can use the file.

We process the surface of the chipboard

With this operation, two methods can be used - the surface cladding with any decorative material or varnish coating. I must say that because of the specifics and textures of this material chipboard Pretty rarely subjected to varnishing, as an impressive results in terms of beauty here it is very difficult to achieve. Therefore, most often this is done in order to protect the outer layer of the plate from the impact of moisture.

Before starting to label the surface of the plate, it should be thoroughly aligned with the reservoir and span. The fact is that the lacquer layer will show everything, the most smallest surface irregularities, which will strongly spoil the impression of the result of your work.

The shp can be applied using a spatula, it must be allowed to give it well, after which the surface of the sandpaper. Such training will help get a fully even and smooth surface, ready to apply lacquer.

If you are carefully covered and polished the plate surface, most likely, you will have enough to apply only one layer of lacquer coating. If, when lacquering, flaws and irregularities were found, it is possible to repeat the procedure - before re-applying the lacquer, carefully dry the first layer and go a little in shallow sandpaper.

As for applying decorative coating, For this purpose, it is better to choose a decorative self-adhesive film - it is convenient to work with it, and a wide selection of colors and textures will allow you to choose exactly what you need. This film has a glue layer, which makes it easier and speeds up its application, before applying such a film, the slab must also be carefully polished - the fact is that the thickness of the film is small, so all the irregularities of the plate will come through it. With due diligence you will get a beautiful and smooth surface.

As an option - instead of a film you can use leaf plastic - it is more durable and provides better protection for the surface of the plate. To apply it, special glue will be required, which is applied to the surface and provides a solid adhesion of plastic with chipboard.

How to protect the surface and edge chipboard

We have already mentioned that furniture from chipboard has some features of storage and use - for example, it does not tolerate excessive moisture too well (strictly speaking, no furniture does not tolerate dampness, but on the furniture from the chipboard it is best noticeable).

Therefore, if you made any object of the situation from this material, it will be worth protecting the edges and the surface of the plate. In addition to protection against moisture, such a measure will also help reduce the allocation. harmful substanceswhich may be contained in the chipboard.

An excellent measure in this regard will be applied to additional layers of varnish - this will help to avoid the allocation of formaldehyde. The lacquer coating layer should be thick enough, it is necessary to lack the furniture at least twice.

You can also protect the surface of the chipboard using a layered plastic or self-adhesive film, as is done, we have already written above. The only thing that can be added here is that the stakes of the protective material should be as dense as possible to prevent moisture penetration.

You can protect the surface of the chipboard and using plywood, the only moment here is that the plywood itself can be made using formaldehyde. If you know or assume that there may be formaldehyde in your plywood, cover the Phanery lacquer in order to reduce its selection.

It is not too good for this purpose. Matter or wallpaper - the porous structure of these materials will not be able to reduce the amount of formaldehyde allocated from plywood, although as decorative material They are quite suitable. Separate theme - chipboard edges.

Their protection is no less important than for the surface of the plate, with a long-term exposure of moisture, the edge swells greatly and loses strength and integrity. Requires edge and protection against mechanical exposure, with a strong impact it can be cooled. In addition, the chipboard of the chipboard is not too aesthetic, so the furniture manufacturers strive to additionally issue it.

For this purpose, many manufacturers produce special edges for designing a DSP cut, today a huge number of various products that differ thick, material, color and texture are presented.

It is quite easy to use this material - usually such a strip already has a layer of glue already applied to it, using a non-highly heated iron or a hair dryer, the glue is heated and the band is applied to the edge. After to secure the edge in place, you can try to try it once again.

If the edges of your chipboard plate are exposed to high loads, it makes sense to protect them with thin wooden planks - such a cladding will not only cause them from shocks, but it will be perfectly harmonized with the color of the surface itself. It is better to plant such strips for glue, if there are no other options, you can use small carnations, only the hats have better to bite off so as not to spoil the appearance.

After the wooden plank is installed in place, it is cleaned and together with the surface of the plate coated with a layer of varnish or other protective composition.

Today, the use of recycling waste for the manufacture of secondary materials is very popular. Such products include the chipboard, which today is used as the basis for the construction of different types of products.

This substance has good technical indicators, which made it possible to replace them to some extent, even a tree. Processing chipboard with special tools that allow you to receive details of certain sizes and forms. You can, where you can also purchase these mechanisms.

We use solutions

The chipboard is worn very often, since it is made by the manufacturers of a certain length in production. Of these, there are many types of different products, ranging from ordinary partitions, to complex furniture. This material It can be often covered (laminated) special paint.

Procedure can be treated by several substances:

1. Waterproof glue. Do it first in order to protect it from moisture exposure.

2. Special sealants. These substances have the same purpose as the previous type.

3. Paint. If you need to give beautiful view The product, then the end can be covered by any paint, pickup it under the color of the subject.

We use a special tape

All factory products from DSP always have an attractive look, but even there are ends. To conceal them use special edid ribbon. It is attached to the edge with a special tool.

Such products can be mounted at home. This material sticks to the ISP end, when heated. This property is used in technological processes.

It is possible to do this at home with the help of iron, which is heated by this product and attach to the edge of the workpiece.

To give the product aesthetic shape, the end can be glued with a special tool and coat with special paint and varnish. In such cases, it is possible to apply different types Puttles that are designed to work with this type of materials.

Edge treatment is a very responsible process, since in most cases not only the appearance, but also the operation time of the entire product depends on it. For high-quality products from chipboard, only special tools should be used, which will greatly facilitate work and allow creating modern beautiful products.

Video instructions for gluing the edge to the end of the chipboard to help you:

The low cost of chipboard, high performance characteristics, the universality of application made them very popular material. The most frequent scope of application is furniture and construction. The main enemy of these plates is water - the chips increases in the amount, the stove swells, it brends and crushes.

At the very beginning of the production of sawdust and chips after drying, they are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing the surface of the slabs is laminated, sometimes even lacquer.

But the surface protection does not save from the penetration of moisture ends, through which it enters inside. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the plate. Consequently, from liquid penetration during operation, it is necessary to save the first ends. If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the plates will increase.

Why exactly the ends are the starting platform for destruction? Yes, because the production of the plates of the necessary standard sizes, as well as the preparation of different largest pieces of material requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is disturbed.

Thus, the protection of chipboard from moisture is carried out in three areas:

• impregnation of wood fibers resins;
• special surface treatment;
• sealing ends.

The first step along the path of moisture resistance

Already at the beginning of the production of chipboard, a process is carried out, designed to protect them from water penetration - the so-called shavings. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - the saturation of the fibers of resins and their gluing. For most of the plates manufactured, formaldehyde resins are used, already by definition that are a hydrophobic component of the product.

In cases where there is still a large moisture resistance from the plates, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea and amelaminic. It glues the shavips much more stronger, thereby being a stronger obstacle on the path of moisture. With an additional introduction into a chip carpet of molten paraffin or its emulsion, the moisture resistance of the chipboard is still increasing.

Treatment of surface plates

The facial and reverse surface of the plate, as the largest square of contact, without protection can skip through themselves and soak up, respectively, the largest amount of fluid. It will not be superfluous to cover these planes with something moisture proof. Some of the ways of such a coverage are possible only in factory conditions, some - and home.

One of the main protection methods is lamination. With it, a melamine film is stacked on a polished chipboard at high pressure and high temperature. The essence of this process is not in pressing, but in the fact that in these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the plate, becoming one with it one.

There is another way performed in the factory conditions - this is a caring. It also uses pressure and heating, but more gentle. Already culled film pressed to the coated with a glue plate. If the lamination is a chemical process, then the combination is mechanical.

Components of laminated chipboard

At home, a non-aluminated chipboard is covered to protect multiple layers of paint. Before painting the surface is pre-treated:

• from the surface, dust swears and erases;
• for the first fold plate, the hot oil is launched;
• next, this is done by the cold olphoi before the formation of the outer crust;
• painting is made on top. For any ways to paint, it is necessary to remember that each subsequent paint layer is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several more ways to protect against fling. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical exposure, it can be protected like this: rub the stearin, then heat the hairdryer. Give cool, and repeat it a couple more times. Or: one part of the bitumen varnish is prevented with five parts of the oil. The coating is carried out twice.

Treatment of joints and edges

Water is always looking for the lowest place, deepening. And what, if not deepening, are the joints on horizontal planes? Especially many such joints in the cabinet furniture, which is performed just from the chipboard. Kitchen furniture is generally like on advanced: and water with excess, and evaporation is enough. Most exposed to moisture washing, wardrobe with drying, countertop, furniture near and over the kitchen stove.

Cranes all once begin to leak. So in the car wash the most promising dangerous place where the mixer is crashed in the worktop. This is the place of contact of the metal and wood. Perhaps not only the leakage of the crane, but also the condensation of water at the point of contact.

Therefore, this place is cleaned, dried with a hairdryer. Next is applied by a layer of PVA glue, after drying Silicone. It is possible a construction sealant, it is also a silicone mass, even the window frames are sealed from the flow.

The edge not only protects the chipboard from the effects of moisture, but also reduces the emissions of harmful substances

In the kitchen cabinet, check the presence or absence of a pallet: if it is not, then the liquid, stacking to the bottom of the locker, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniture, where it is possible to wet, you need to take yourself as a rule: degrease this place and then do not regret the sealant.

For seams of seams, it is better to use the sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

Narmuminized edges of the table top are closed by connecting or end planks. They are metal or plastic. The defense is not so, so pre-end the countertops should be treated with silicone. Another way of protection is to apply a cut-off lacquer or pva glue. Self-adhesive films or tape proposed by the construction market are impossible to name.

Inserting the joints of the chipboard on the floor

The difficulty lies in the fact that the plates are constantly exposed to significant physical exertion, they "play" relative to each other. For this reason, the shtatlevka does not want to keep. There are several folk methods of sealing such seams.

The seams are smeared with epoxy mixed with sawdust. Sawdles are pre-sifted. The composition is collapsed very quickly, so immediately a large amount of such smelting should not be harvested. Such protection serves a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and seams are expensive.

It is possible to replace the epoxy of hot joinery glue. It is necessary to mix in it sawdust and walk along the seams.

The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since hot glue penetrates deep into. This method and moisture saves, and the joke stops "playing". True, several days for this floor, it is advisable not to walk, as the joinery is driving long.

It costs such a way much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum on top, then you can forget about the damping plates of the chipboard at all.