It is estimated that the living tree along with the trunk, branches, roots, bark and leaves by 65-85% consists of water. Moisture delivered by the roots of the soil maintains the viability of the plant cells. But moisture in nature is needed not only the living tree, but also the dead. Thanks to the water contained in it, it is quite quickly destroyed by turning into the natural fertilizer required by living plants. If this did not happen, then many forests globe Would be buried under the trunks and branches of the dead trees.

But the wood falls into the hands of the Water Master, and the moisture contained in it instead of positive begins to play a negative role. The surface of the raw wood after sharpening, sawing and cutting becomes a duct and poorly decomposed. It is very difficult to grind, lacquered and colorful coatings are cracking and trembled. After drying, the edition - 129 lie is breached and covered with deep cracks. They arise in wood due to uneven drying of its various layers - the upper dry and decrease in the volume much faster than internal.

Wood cracks through the core rays. At the end of a cracked log or ridge, it is clearly seen that mostly all cracks go in the radial direction and only individual minor cracks can be located on the border of the annual layers. The stronger the wood, the more numerous and deeper the cracks arising in it. Soft and lightweight wood dries usually less than solid, dense and heavy. In addition, soft wood dries significantly faster than firm, it is working less and cracks. By degree of drying wood various trees can be divided into three groups: Low-breathing - fir, juniper, Iva, cedar, poplar; Medium-unlocking - elm, pear, oak, linden, alder, ox, rowan and aspen; Fighter drying - birch, larch, apple tree, lilac and maple.

Even in deep ancient times, a man noticed that wood only after removing moisture from the easily destroyed raw materials turns into a durable and durable material. Housing was built out of it, the tools of labor and various economic utensils were manufactured. But how to dry wood so that cracks do not form in it?

Over the centuries, folk masters have been developed their techniques of wood drying, striking sometimes unexpected and wit. The trees were dried right in the forest or in the courtyard under a canopy, in a heated room, in the Russian stove, in the ground, chips, in the grain, dysqualized, washed out in the water ... Applying one or another way of drying, the masters necessarily took into account the tree of the tree, its structure , hardness, density and size of blanks. Picking suitable material For billets, they knew that the torn wood with twisted wood layers was less subjected to cracking than the straight line. It was known that the tree trunk section, located closer to the root, the so-called kolly, has more durable wood, less cracking than the rest of the trunk. Wood raw materials were also dried with the conditions in which the finished product will be. For example, for carpentry work, wood was dried more carefully than for construction.

Moisture, which is in the wood of the fledged wood, is divided into capillary, or free, and colloid-dial, or hygroscopic. Gigroscopic moisture directly enters the wood cells. Capillary moisture, called folk masters of "forest moisture", fills the intercellular space and wood channels. In the process of drying, the capillary moisture is first removed, and then the hygromo-130 is copied. In practice, absolutely dry wood does not occur.

In any wood contains a certain percentage of moisture. Therefore, in woodworking production, with the practical determination of the degree of moisture, the wood is made to indicate the percentage of water in relation to 100 g of conditionally absolutely dry wood. The wood is just a fledged tree called raw. It, as a rule, has a very high degree of humidity. For example, spruce and pine it can reach up to 150%. The humidity of about 200% has wood that has lain in the water. It is called wet. Wood containing 18-23% moisture is called semi-dry. This means that 100 g of absolutely dry wood accounts for 18-23 g of water. And the wood that weighed in a completely dry state is 100 g, it will be weighing at the indicated humidity already 118-123. The aircraft wood has a humidity of 12-18%, and the bedrooms - 8-12%. Usually, wood, having a humidity of 8-12%, is used for artistic and joinery, and for carpentry - 12-18%. For example, a chair or table should be made from the wood-haua wood, and carved aircraft coats.

How are wood dried, how are it from raw materials to wonderful solar material?

Folk masters were harvested by wood on specially reserved forest areas, cut down a tree in the forest without permission was considered a great sin and even a crime. Stroke

tovka began late in autumnAs soon as the trees fall the last sheet, and ended up with the beginning of the spring coating. At this time, there are very few "forest moisture" in the trunks of the detached trees. Therefore, they dry faster, cracking less. Nature itself has dried wood, and man only sued her one of the known ways.

Drying wood in the forest directly to the root was made in spring and summer. Around the tree trunk, designed to log, filmed a wide ring of the crust. Moisture from the soil stopped entering the crown. The leaves and needles absorbed the remaining moisture in the barrel, which evaporated at the same time with drying. A tree with a saturated trunk of pills, bruised bits, and then squid, that is, they saw on the logs. Nowadays, in this way, the bins are dripped with pine sucking in front of the river alloy. Peat trees on the root increases the buoyancy of the fused wood, and therefore reduces its loss on the way.

In the spring, when young foliage gained full strength on the trees, Bogorodsky masters drove into the forest to harvest linden wood for carved toys. At the female linden, bruised bumps and removed the bark from the trunk of about two thirds of the length of the whole tree. The top of the tree with bruises, branches and leaves (crown) were left untouched. Considerations were very simple. The oiled tree foliage does not get enough immediately, but continues to fight for life for a long time, as if by powerful pumps 131 drawing into the life of the wonderful moisture in the tree trunk. In two weeks, this natural pump ran out so much moisture from the trunk that to remove it during the usual drying on open air It would take several months. After two weeks, the linden barrel was collected on a variety of up to one and a half meters. Ombreated and frying lime ridges, the so-called Lutchka, brought home and drunk on the courtyard under a canopy, putting them on the flooring rising above the ground. By the autumn, the lime wood was already quite suitable for all sorts of carved works. Part of the wood was allowed to go, and the rest was continued to dry on the free air.

The atmospheric drying or drying on free air is characterized by simplicity and accessibility, but a tree located under a canopy, protecting it from rain and direct sunlight, dries very slowly - from several months to several years. In summer, wood will dry better than in the spring, autumn and winter. But if summer is rainy, it will not only dry well, but it can be covered with mold and even bend. With favorable weather, wood can be dried to aircraft (12-18% humidity).

The trunks of the trees of soft hardwood die, that is, they remove the bark with them, and put on the racks. Sometimes from the ends of the ends left the cortex strips. The same rings are left in the middle at equal gaps. From the trunks of the trees of solid rocks, such as an apple, maple, a bark is not removed at all. So that the wood does not crack due to uneven drying, the ends of the trunks are painted or tamped. Mascasters, closing pores of wood, make up a mixture of olifes and lime-puffs or wood resin and chalk. When drying small barrels, the ends are shuffled with a thick layer of thick oil paint.

Chamber drying is widely used in woodworking enterprises. In special drying chambers, wood is treated with superheated steam and flue gas. Wood dried in chambers has a bedroom wool humidity (8-12%) and goes to carpentry, turning and carvings. From three days before the week it is required to dry the wood of soft rocks, such as pine, lime or spruce. From two weeks before the month should dry in the chamber solid wood oak, beech or elm. But in the chamber drying, the appearance of cracks is not excluded. Therefore, scientists are constantly looking for more advanced and fast methods Drying wood.

IN last years were created drying chambersworking on high frequency currents. In such chambers between two brass mesh-electrodes, wood is placed. The electrodes serves a current from a high-frequency generator. IN electric field Wood will dry almost 20 times faster than in the PA-132 epic chamber. In this way, the valuable wood of solid rocks is dried.

Wood drying with welding was used by folk masters in the distant past, since it was invented russian oven.which became the prototype of a modern drying chamber.

If for any reason to prepare wood from spring, it did not succeed, it was dried in Russian furnaces in a short time. Westered wood in large cast iron. The cast iron was laid with crude wood, and some water poured onto the bottom. Then the cast iron was covered with a lid and put in a drowning furnace. So that the heat did not leave the oven, it was covered with the damper. In the morning, the wood was removed from the cast iron and drunk at room temperature.

Applied and another, easiest way to dry wood. After another furnace from the Russian oven, the ash was absorbed and sweetened to be purely under which wooden blanks were put on the ass. Tightly closing the damper, the tree was kept in the oven until the morning. By the morning, the wood faded well and at the same time acquired a beautiful color. White in the raw form of linden after glooming was painted in a golden color, and the wood is alder-in light chocolate.

Forest moisture can be removed in fresh water from soft wood linden, pines, alder and other trees. Simultaneously with the liberation from the capillary moisture of wood

it becomes much softer than in the dried state. Considering this, the Watersel Masters cut out spoons and steering woods from the planned wood immediately after removing it from hot water. M. Gorky compares the sparkled wood with butter in the "story about extraordinary": "... the old man is sitting on the hemp at the fire, over the fire in the stones boiler boils, - in the boiler whirlpacked ... Needlework old man bent, spoons cuts ... Acts a knife quickly, chips and splashes onto the knees, on his feet to him. Churbaki are raw, they cut easily like oil, there is no screens from the knife. And in the boiler water bouffals. "

Spoons and various thin-wing dishes cut out of wrapped wood, dries so quickly that cracks do not have time to appear.

Digestion of wood in salt water also warns her cracking. In addition, the salt reliably protects the wood from penetration of rotten microbes into it. In woodworking workshops of Lespromkhozov, producing trough and other dangled dishes, finished goods From Linden, Osin and Willow fighting in a 25-percent solution of cook salt.

Small hard and soft wood blanks can be treated at home. Crude wood is put in a deep saucepan and pour to the top with salt water at the rate of 4-5 tablespoons of a cooking salt on a liter of water. Wood is boiled on a slow heat for two or three hours, then removed from salt water and dried at room temperature. 133.

Washbind of wood in water reduces the appearance of cracks upon subsequent drying. In water that protects the wood of a freshly chopped tree from rotting, kept logs during the season. Often at the bottom of the stream or river (it is necessary that the water is running) immersed oak logs. So that they do not come up, they were tied to them. Apparently, pushing the wood before drying the winds of the Black Seed Oak, which they raised sometimes from the bottom of the forest rivers and streams. Tens of healing in the water, or even hundreds of years, the Mojer Oak was solid as a stone, and when drying was not covered with cracks.

Digestion in oil and olive small pieces of solid wood not only warns the appearance of cracks, but also enhances the decorative expressiveness of the material. The blanks for small carved things from the apple tree, the samshet, pears and oak are boiled in a natural olife, flax, cotton, wood (olive) oil. During cooking, the oil displaces moisture from wood into the air, filling the intercellular spaces. Wood-lined in oil or olifer is then dried at room temperature. Well dried wood acquires extra strength and moisture resistance, perfectly grinding and polished.

Drying logs in a vertical position on dry ground is known in the southern regions of our country. For example, Uzbek cutters dried wood under the outdoor canopy.

The logs, designed for drying, put it vertically that the lower end rests on dry soil. The moisture in the logs gradually lowered along the fibers on the capillaries down and the dry land greedily absorbed it.

The oldest master of musical instruments of Rakhimjan Kahyov told that in the near past the masters practiced wood drying in the ground and river sand. From the trunk of freshly served wood, the coarse blank was first supplied. Then she was buried in Earth somewhere under a canopy, so that even rare in Central Asia, the rain could not moisten the soil. In the ground, the tree was kept for several years, but often just just one year. After a certain period, the workpiece was pulled out from the ground and sued indoors. The dryer period was determined by the state of the wood, which was able to determine with great accuracy. The color of the wood, the nature of the sound, published by the workpiece at a light tapping of her fingers on it, was given to the experimental master with accurate information about wood availability to further processing.

Small hardwood blanks can be dried quite quickly artificially in river sand. At the same time, they acquire a golden brown color.

Interesting decorative effect You can achieve with drying of ready-made carvings. The cast iron puffed a layer of pure river sand. The billets are put on top, which, in its 134 turn, fall asleep with a new layer of dry sand. Thus, the cast iron fill to the top, following the workpieces do not touch its walls. Loaded cast iron without a cover put on the furnace. The closer it stands to burning firewood, the faster the drying will go. But at the same time there is a danger that wood will begin to smolden after a while. At the same time, if the cast iron stands too far from the fire, the tree will dry slowly. Optimal distance From fire to cast iron, the masters are determined by an experimental way. As the wood drying on the plots facing in the direction of the fire, golden subpalin gradually occurs. It smoothly goes into a natural color, which has wood blanks from the opposite side. Often it is precisely such an effect that artists - antodips, decorating ready-made carved products. But if you need to get a uniform painting, the cast iron turns around from time to time around its axis, putting it alone, then his other side to the fire. If they want to get pure dried wood (without falling), cast iron with sand and blanks put in the oven after pro-furnace for the night. You can dry wood in the sand and on the plate or bonorable, using banks, old pan, buckets instead of cast iron.

From written sources, it is known that the ancient Greek sculptors dried the wood of valuable breeds into dry rye. Drying wood in the grain was well known in Russia. Wooden blank buried in grain closer to spring. For a few weeks, the grain absorbed the whole "forest

moisture. The wood prepared in this way was kept at room temperature, and then boldly allowed into the case without fearing the appearance of cracks. It was believed that drying of raw wood in the grain a few weeks before sowingly affects the quality of the sowing material. Very allowed grain as if worsened from the winter hibernation and fasterly germinated, being in the ground.

Wood breaking into chips - well-known and reliable way Drying wood used by turner and wood cutter. Raw turning details of the turner immediately breaks into chips, obtained by their sharpening or pre-harvested. A cutter on a tree grinds into chips an unfinished carved board or sculpture. They evenly dry out with chips. This measure eliminates the product from the warming and appearance of cracks, especially with a long break in the work.

Water masters have always been inexhaustible for fiction, especially when it was necessary to get a good material. Napping that even in a tall frost inside the dung heap constantly retains a fairly high temperature, they began to roas the oak ridges into it. Spring ridges were wrapped in running water And dried under the outdoor canopy.

I should say more about one original method Drying wood - drying on cement floor, Based on the ability of concrete to intensively draw yourself to moisture. Wet 135 wood lay on a dry concrete floor. During the day, each workpiece is turned over so that it alternates alternately, then its other line was adjacent to the cement floor.

Successful drying of wood largely depended on the size and shape of the workpiece, the presence or absence of a swamp. A master who knows the structure, the physico-mechanical properties of a tree, with the help of an ax, saws, drills and chisels, at its discretion, to direct the drying process in the right direction.

It is well known that it is especially difficult to dry the logs, rings and sawn timber with inside the core. As a rule, during drying, they are cracking almost to the core itself. The logs of many chopped structures are usually dotted with numerous cracks. However, you can still meet log fires, which do not have any noticeable cracks.

How did the carpenters succeed so well to dry the logs? It turns out that there are cracks on the logs, only they are hidden from our eye. Each log accounts for one major crack, but they are skillfully disguised inside the log cabin. Before drying along each log, a carpenter did an ax. The depth of scubons was approximately one third of the distance from the log surface to the core. After drying the wood on site, one deep crack was formed in place, and the rest of the logs remained smooth

kimi. One big crack as it would absorb dozens of smaller, concentrating shrinkage in the zone of hell. Placeing the logs in a litter, carpenters had their cracks down. According to this principle, the field of India is dried by the wood of Samsit, as is known, very solid and prone to severe cracking. The Samshetoy Churbak is cut to the core, so that the shrinkage during drying is always concentrated in the zone of propyl.

It is known that the crotes of wood dries quickly and without cracks. If the log or ridge split in half, then the plate will be obtained (half a second). The half-star sends much faster than the ridge, not only because his mass is twice as smaller, but mostly because air access opens to the converted year-old layers. If the half-night is ne-uniform, then a deep crack can go from the core. The splits half a second in half, receive a quarter (in an old "fourth"). Unlike the plate, the quarter is very rarely forms when the crack dryer.

The properties of the wood of the wood knew well and skillfully used masters-cutters from the Trinity-Sergievsky Posad of the Moscow province. They split the lime ridge depending on its thickness to four or eight parts through the core. Perhaps this technical technique that has arisen from the need to avoid cracking wood, to some extent suggested the plastic solution of many carved toys.

It is quite difficult to dry solid wood having a kernel. When drying, it is very cracking. Deep cracks reach almost the core. Strict cracking is subject to, for example, wood freshly edged apple tree. But even the trunk of dried apple trees - dry after sawing on short ridges and ham is covered with numerous cracks. The apple tree has a bright swamp and a dark core. Masters especially appreciate the kernel. The wood of the core is more solid and dry, and its pores are filled with a special preservative substance. Collot, on the contrary, loose and strongly saturated with moisture. When the ridge is drying, the swamp is cracking primarily, and then the kernel. To preserve the valuable wood of the kernel, the swamp is shy with an ax and lubricate the pastes of the ends. After removing the sickness, the kernel wood dries quite well, almost without forming cracks.

A lot of hassle delivers raw wood sculptors who most often have to deal with grooves of rather impressive sizes. In order not to depend on the capricious impermanence of wood in the ridges, some sculptors glue from pre-dried bars necessary in size and configuration blocks. The glued blocks are not amenable to warp and cracking, but the violation of the natural direction of the wood layers forming the texture drawing is often adversely affected by artistic dignity.

sculptures. In the sculpture made of the whole ridge, and not from the glued block, the texture, on the contrary, emphasizes the form and makes it more expressive.

The wizards noticed that if the grocery remove the core, then the appearance of cracks can be avoided almost completely. In the workpiece along the core, a hole with a diameter of about five centimeters is drilled. When the moisture is drying, simultaneously and evenly removes not only from the upper, but also from the inner layers of the ridge. Having completed work on sculpture, holes are clogged with wooden corks.

The oldest Soviet sculptor-animal V. Vatagin in the book "Animal Image" wrote: "I ruble my sculptures from the tree, not believing with the fact that it dried or raw. The raw tree is much easier cut, the chisel is mildly cut into an elastic, raw layer. Cracks will still appear, and then they will need to close. But in some cases, the internal layers are exposed when cutting, drying occurs evenly and cracks do not appear or appear in smaller. " As we can see, the sculptor dried the wood simultaneously with its plastic processing.

It is possible that on the finished wooden sculpture, a carvom, rolling or turning product made of well-dried wood, one or two cracks may appear. Therefore, each workshop should be able to skillfully close them. Mostly cracks go along the fibers, 137 gradually narrowing to the core. Shot into the crack a small piece of smelting (you can plasticine or eglin), then it is then carefully removed with a stack or chips. The mask acquires the form of a triangular prism. So that it does not stick to the wood, the slot in front of the molding is sprinkled with a talc or dental powder. Guided by the surface obtained, the master cuts out a triangular triangle tree. They are usually called roosters. The harvested rails are lubricated with glue and clog into cracks. Small cracks are sealed with a special putty (in a liquid solution of joinery glue pouring tooth powder). Putty tinted with dry pigments, gouache or temperatic under the color of the wood.

Digestion in fresh water removes "forest moisture" from soft wood linden, pines, alder and other trees. Simultaneously with the release of capillary moisture, wood becomes much softer than in the dried state. Considering this, the masters - the winds cut out spoons and steering wheels from the sparkling wood immediately after removing it from hot water.

Spoons and various thin-walled dishes cut from wrapped wood dry so quickly that cracks do not have time to appear.

2 Digestion in salty water.
Digestion of wood in salt water also warns her cracking. In addition, the salt reliably protects the wood from penetration of rotten microbes into it. Products from linden, aspen and willows boil in a 25-percent solution of cook salt.
Small hard and soft wood blanks can be treated at home. Crude wood is put in a deep saucepan and pour to the top with salt water at the rate of 4-5 tablespoons of a cooking salt on a liter of water. Wood is boiled on a slow heat for two to three hours, then removed from the salted water and dried at room temperature.
3 soaking in water.
Washbind of wood in water reduces the appearance of cracks upon subsequent drying. In water that protects the wood of a freshly chopped tree from rotting, kept logs during the season. Often at the bottom of the stream or river (it is necessary that the water is running) immersed oak logs. So that they do not come up, they were tied to them.
Tens of healing in the water, or even hundreds of years, the Mojer Oak was solid as a stone, and when drying was not covered with cracks.
4 Digestion in oil and olife.
Digestion in oil and olive small pieces of solid wood not only warns the appearance of cracks, but also enhances the decorative expressiveness of the material. The blanks for small carved things from the apple tree, the samshet, pears and oak are boiled in a natural olife, flax, cotton, wood (olive) oil. During cooking, the oil displaces moisture from wood into the air, filling the intercellular spaces. Wood-lined in oil or olifer is then dried at room temperature. Well dried wood acquires extra strength and moisture resistance, perfectly grinding and polished.
5 decorated finish Soch.
Sauce, or soot, is the smallest particles of smoke, settled on any surface.
Smoking is a simple but rather spectacular way to decorate wood, which is often used by modern masters. Its essence is as follows.
We suppose you need to decorate the wooden button in this way. Button made of linden wood, aspen or birch, score on tip sewed with invented side And place the burning candle over the flame. That approaching the tree to the smoking flame, then removing from it, you can draw soap, like a brush, getting a "strokes" of any tonality - from light gray to black. The pattern from the soot is kept on the wood very weakly. To secure it, lower the button into the liquid transparent varnish. After drying the first layer of lacquer, apply two more layers in the same way. Under the lacquer-processed wood, the wood acquires a warm shade, and soft "strokes" with smooth transitions resemble the color of the turtle horny shear. Therefore, such a reception of wood decoration among folk craftsmen is called "under the turtle".
With the help of the stencil, the way smoked can be applied on wooden surfaces ornamental and plot patterns. Stencil is desirable to cut out of paper on which the foil is passed on one side, for example, from under tea packaging. With the help of a stencil, only silhouette images can be applied. Where the foil remains untouched, wood after smoking will be bright, and in front of the slots - dark. Only if the stencil is applied to a cylindrical or conical surface, it is fixed with threads or thin soft wire. On a flat surface, the stencil in the corners slightly grab glue. In the event that, if on the edges of the wooden workpiece, allowances left, which will further trim, the stencils are fixed with buttons or small nails. Soaking the product or blank must be above the eye level above. With the help of a smoking candle, evenly apply soot to the stencil and on the surface of wood in the slots. Having finished smoking, carefully remove the stencil with wooden surface. It will remain a clear silhouette pattern. It must be fixed. In the event that the decorated object is large and the method of dipping cannot be applied, apply several thin transparent layers of varnish with a spray gun. One stencil can be used many times, after removing with a soft cloth, the cooler sharpened on the foil.
6 Decorated processing by firing.
Using an open directional fire gas burner or soldering lamp You can not only enhance the expressiveness of wood texture coniferous trees, but also apply plot and ornamental drawings on the wood of deciduous trees.
To make a more expressive wood texture coniferous rocks, it is quite evenly falling out its surface. Soft summer sections of annual layers are faster and easier than tight autumn. It is necessary to burn wood uniformly, slightly touching the flame of its surface. Uneven movement of the burner can lead to appearance dark spotsMaking work sloppy. Do not attempt to immediately get the final tone you have conceived. It needs to be achieved gradually. For example, to get a dark brown color are fed, first fall out the wood to the light - golden shade. After the second pass, the wood surface will become even darker. So you need to do until you get the desired tone. The subpaline holds on wood quite firmly, but if desired, it can be covered with a transparent varnish. Any method of applying varnish is suitable: dipping, with a spacing or tampon.
In the event that on the roasting surface of the wood in advance to put flat metal object, after burning on it there will be a clear light silhouette. On this basis, you can create interesting compositions using them when decorative decoration The interior of the school workshop, the premises of the technical circle, the office of physics, mathematics and drawing.
Pretty complex compositions can be obtained in a matter of minutes, of course, if there is a necessary material at hand. Spread on the blackboard or tablet several metal parts so that the balanced composition is. Then Opt open areas Woods, seeking conceived tonality. Having finished the firing, do not rush to remove parts from the surface of the wood. When contacting the burner flame, the parts are very hot. Therefore, remove them after they finally cooled. On the surface of the tree, a clear silhouette drawing is designated. To strengthen the expressiveness of its individual parts, silhouettes in some places can be developed by the electro-inflating machine.
Composition with a complex multiform pattern is easy to get, changing position flat details Directly in the process of burning wood, at different stages. Silhouettes with a double circuit are obtained by offset of parts after the initial firing, and the silhouettes of objects that are one on the other are the overlapping of one part to the already obtained light silhouette from another part.
Along with ready-made items as a stencil, artists also use silhouette images that cut from sheet metal (for example, letters, numbers, geometric forms, images of man, animals, etc. 7 Tree, clay and fire.
If certain parts of the tree on the tablet led from direct exposure Fire is not metal, but clay, then due to the high plasticity of clay, it is possible to create decorative patterns of any complexity.
For work will suit Any clay, carefully cleaned from foreign impurities - sand, pebbles and residues of dried herbs. Clear clay can be so. Fill the bucket of crude clay about one third of its volume and pour clean water. Clay thoroughly stir until it dissolve in water. Then give the solution to stand. Slugs and blades will pop up, and sand and pebbles will fall on the bottom. As soon as the water becomes quite transparent, carefully drain it. Together with water will be removed the pop-up garbage. Liquid clay, remaining in the bucket, carefully draw in the cooked clean dishes. It does not need to touch the bottom layer, which contains sand and pebbles. Put in the presidine liquid clay let it once again stand and drain excess water. If necessary, pushing can be repeated in the same sequence. Turning clay need to be slightly dried. Most convenient for the work of clay, having a dental (consistency) of vaseline or toothpaste.
With the help of clay on the wood surface, you can smear a dark pattern on a light background or, on the contrary, light on the dark.
* Dark drawing on a light background *.
On the surface of the wood, apply a layer of clay with a thickness of about 5 mm. Clay must be given to dry so much so that it is easily cut by a knife, without sticking to it. Cut drawing on clay need stacks - loops. They are easy to make with their own hands. Bend from steel wire or springs from old hours of brackets of various shapes and values. Then screw them with a soft copper wire to wooden cuttings. The free end of one of the cuttings needs to be sharpened and used as a pulmonary when applied to the clay an auxiliary pattern. Guided by drawing lines, cut deep grooves in the superimposed layer. At the bottom of each groove should be put on wood. Without waiting for clay, the clay will dry, burn the wood-purified stack of wood. Having finished the burn, remove the clay with a wooden scraper and rinse the tree with clean water.
* Light drawing on a dark background *.
In the event that it is not a solid layer on the surface of the wood of wood, and after roasting and removing clay on a dark laid background, a light contiguous figure clearly will clear. To apply clay on wood, rubber pear or elastic plastic bottle are used. Since the clay applied in working condition should not have a big fluidity, to gain it into the pear through the tip is quite difficult. To facilitate this task, cut out in a pear round holewhich after filling it with clay you need to shrink suitable in size with a plug. In the plastic bottle cover, drill a hole and insert a metal tube into it. Having turned around the tube, the vial fill the liquid clay.
Having squeezing clay from the vial or pear, apply a conceived pattern on the surface of the wood. By changing push strength on the walls of a pear or a bottle, you can apply rollers of various widths. Moving them with different speed, regulate the thickness of the applied clay layer.
After applying clay, immediately proceed to the burn. By burning a tree, you will simultaneously dry clay. It is necessary to burn very carefully, barely touching the flame of wood burner. Clay will serve as a kind of indicator. Thus, if you wish to get a clear drawing, the firing must be stopped, without waiting for a complete drying of clay. In the event that the design does not have to be too contrasting, increase the firing time, having achieved full drying of clay. The clay at the edges will slightly grow out and the edges of the drawing will fall, destroying sharp transitions from the light tone to the dark. But at the same time, it is necessary to remember that with too long burning clay can also felt the sections of wood, located under it, fit, bringing all the work on no.
When the firing is finished, the dried clay is easy to exfoliate from the wood. Only in the event that, after removing clay, dirty clay spots will remain on the tree, it must be rinsed with clean water and wipe dry with a soft cloth.
8 Getting texture relief.
The texture relief is especially appropriate in cases where it enhances expressiveness with a precise or carved thing, emphasizes some features of the image being depicted. For example, in a conditional decorative manner, he can transmit bird's fool, scaly fish, beast wool. A carved or accurate sculpture must be performed with such a calculation so that the generic layers as successfully underlined the form. In many ways, success depends on the correctly selected workpiece, and above all from the arrangement of the annual layers in it. Do not cut small partsWhich in the firing can simply burn down. Forms of sculpture, relief or any utilitarian stuff should be generalized, simple and compact.
Sculpture or other wooden product Install on the brick and evenly burn from all sides. At the first stage of the roasting, the loose part of the annual layers is charred only slightly. With the subsequent burning, the charred wood will become completely black. From time to time it will light up in separate places. Riding the flame, continue to burn, but not in the place where the fire broke out, and near. Wood burning should be stopped after the upper thin layer of the product coats evenly on all areas.
Believed from the product burnt wood is preferably on fresh air, somewhere in the corner of the yard or garden. Owing on the hands of the mittens, remove the steel karting brush first the top charred layer. Then the wood process the brush, trying to lead it along the fibers. The distilled earliest part of the wood layers will be easily removed, and in its place are formed relatively deep depressions. Late wood will make relief on the surface of the product.
Carting brushing product treatment can be stopped at the stage when early wood will become golden - ocher, and the crests of the textural relief will retain a dark brown or almost black color. At this stage, there will be no sharp contrast between late and early wood arrangement layers, and the tree will impress the old one. In the event that, according to the creative intention, it is necessary to achieve contrast between the early and late parts of the annual layers, then the processing of wood can be continued.

On the effect on the strength of the river and sea water strength of the data, meanwhile it is necessary to know for practice. Investigated the effect of alloy on the mechanical properties of pine wood, spruce and black alder. Comparative tests were subjected to wood after 6 months of stay in running water and wood stored in stock. The effect of staying in water was not detected. Exploring the water permeability of the wood of the pine of alloy and land delivery is found that the radial permeability of the swamp after the alloy is significantly larger due to the flushing of resinous substances. At the same time, the water permeability of the kernel wood has not changed.

Staying in the river water for 10-30 years, logs of pines, ate, birch and aspen almost did not affect the strength of wood. This output is obtained by comparing these fake wood tests with average data for conventional wood of the same breeds taken from literary sources. Such a comparison, of course, conditionally, therefore, the conclusions should be considered approximate. Thus, it can be assumed that the residence in river water for several decades, apparently, does not make noticeable changes in the mechanical properties of wood. However, a longer stay (about several hundred years) is already strongly changing wood. The proof of this situation can be the data on the physicomechanical properties of the wood of moraine oak, for a long time of the river on the bottom of the river.

Depending on the time of being under water, the color of the oak wood varies from light brown to black (consequence of the combination of tubyl substances with iron salts). Moraine Oak Wood, plastic in saturated water condition becomes fragile after drying; Her sleeping and swelling of it 1.5 times more than ordinary wood (this explains the strong cracking of the moraine oak during drying); Compressive and static bending strength and hardness are reduced by about 1.5 times, and the specific work during shock bending is 2-2.5 times. Washing wood in seawater (the composition and concentration of salts corresponded to the water of the Black Sea) from 1 to 4 months led to a decrease in mechanical properties: the strength in compression along the fibers decreased by an average of 6%, and the specific work during shock bending - on average by 36% (in some cases up to 77%); The density has changed slightly.

After staying in solution sea salts The strength of the sampling wood in compression along the fibers decreased by 15%, stretching along the fibers - by 10%, the twilight - by 5%, the specific work during shock bending is 26%. The mechanical properties of none wood pine after staying in salt solves have not changed. Sea water due to the content of alkaline earth metal salts in it, after a short time there has a noticeable effect on the strength of wood, especially when shock loads. There is data on the electrochemical destruction of wood in maritime courts. In the wood of the hull of ships, decks, etc. is often observed accompanied by dark coloring local softening, about metal fasteners from copper and bronze (copper nails, bolts, etc.). The main cause of these damage is the presence of heterogeneous metals in wet wood; Metals form the poles of the electroplating element, and the moisture in the wood is an electrolyte solution.

As a result of the electrolysis of salts at the cathode, which is in this case copper, is formed by a caustic sodium that destroys wood. The measure of protection of wood from electrochemical effects can be the use of metal fasteners and other parts from one metal, as well as electrical insulation both between metals (if different) and between metal and wood.

In this article, I want to tell about the method of wood harvesting, which is suitable for both sculptor cutters, and for children of other professions.

In our club there are a lot of those who begin their way in the carved creativity, and the question of the preparation and choice of material is naturally standing in front of them. Especially problematic is the preparation of wood of firm and fruit trees with the smallest loss of volume of material, the amount of cracks and the simultaneous reduction in the duration of the drying of the workpieces, without resorting to use special equipment and low-cost technology. The recipe transmitted from generation to generation is relatively available to each, designed for all hardwood wood, it can be realized without special costs and fixtures.

1. Blank material

Spilization of wood is usually produced in the period of the smallest juice-containing in the trunk - from the end of November to mid-February. For the convenience of the branch and bitch are cut primarily, then the main trunk is then fired. After that, they remove the Cora (it is convenient to do a bayonet shovel, you need to pre-trim the end of the blade and, causing a chamfer, to wonder how the straight point is such a way more effective than the traditional processing of the row) and cut into chocks - rounded the desired sizes depending on the author's ideas. At this stage of the workpiece, it is necessary to somehow mark, for example, on the edge of the end of the comluced side of the trunk, you can make a scubrice. This fact should be fixed in a notebook for memory, so as not to be confused.

2. Digestion of blanks

The meaning of the next stage lies in the fact that the method of digestion in boiling water is accelerated by the process of removal from the intracellular juice tree. For this purpose, the container will be required, there may be an ordinary lingerie welding (familiar woodwool made for digestion of boards of stainless steel 2.5 meters long and mounted electrothene into it). In our case, the source of heating can serve a household stove, a Russian oven, a bonfire. If the author has been formed the idea - the image of the future work is, it is advisable to do it on the workpiece of a rough corner and you can also drill through a hole in the center from the end to the end with the subsequent chipping plugs. This technique will speed up the intensity of the removal of the juice, will reduce or eliminate the occurrence of cracks.

If the blanks turned out longer than the size of the tank itself, then, by placing them vertically, you can turn up and down during the digestion. After placed the material in the tanks, we pour water, bring to a boil and cook from 3 h to 4 hours. For the efficiency of the process, you can add a table salt to water (4-5 tablespoons per 1 liter of water), but if the work has to be performed in The carved technique, then it is better to exclude salt, as it is crystallized and the cutters are very stupid. But if the processing of the tree is produced by the method of milling and abrasives, then in this case, the digestion with salt is appropriate.

The liquid remaining in the capacitance after cooking, for example, a pear tree can be used as a sampling. There is another way to remove intracellular fluid. Brica is stacked in water with flowing water in such a way that the comuted part of the trunks will be deployed towards the flow. The reason for this location lies in the structure and properties of the capillary-vascular system of trees.

3. Pre-removal of fluid

The next step is to pre-remove the liquid from the wood. We will need a unheated, unlit room, if there is a window, it should be closed as it should be draped to prevent the possible beam of light on the surface of the tree without creating conditions for the occurrence of cracks. Be sure to indoors the presence of concrete floor, the basement is best suited. As you know, concrete has a property of moisture drawing. Now we take our rusties, we find labels and set each workpiece on the concrete with a compence up, and the top down. This technique is due to the creation of a more intensive removal of moisture from our billets. As is known, moisture by ascending forward movement passes through the capillar vessels located in the structure of the tree trunk, from the roots to the top. Overwhelmed "upside down" vessels microcameras continue to perform their function without effort in more comfortable mode, give liquid with an insatiable concrete. The efficiency is thus increasing, and we get accelerated the process and exclude the occurrence of cracks in the workpieces. The duration of this procedure takes 2-3 weeks (depending on the size of the material).

4. Intrusion-binding

On the tree will need to protect the ends. This can be made in painting the surface of the ends of oil paint, take the paper. I prefer to cover the heated tar (so founder). We choose the place outdoors, more correctly from the north side of some building and under a canopy (from rain, snow and sun). The woods are laid on each other "Well".

It is better to dry Hollows, native to each other, from one tree laid in one stack. This process takes at least one month. The longer the natural way to plant, the greater the guarantees to avoid cracks in the future. After that, you can continue drying in a room with room (residential) heating mode, occasionally ventilating.

Sequential performance of all preparatory stages and strict compliance with the conditions of this cycle guarantees abbreviated over time and high-quality drying of solid and fruit tree trees.

5. If not at hand is a moisture meter

At a distance of 2.5-3 cm from the end of the board, the bar is scolded across the fibers, which is cut off from the sides to 15 cm. The bar is carefully weighed, and then dried in the furnace or oven at a temperature of approximately 100 degrees for 4-5 hours or on the radiator central heating Within 48 hours

Dried bar weighed again. The resulting difference is divided into a mass of wood in a dry state and is multiplied by 100, resulting in a percentage of moisture.

For example, I had a lot of 200 g, after drying - 150 g, the difference - 50 g. I divide 50 to 150 and multiplying the result by 100, we obtain: (50/150) x100 \u003d 33% humidity.

In order for the product does not breed, the moisture of wood should correspond to the humidity of the surrounding atmosphere. Therefore, for internal crafts, in particular furniture, it is recommended to take wood with a humidity of 6-12%, and for external work - even up to 25%.

Affordable and universal material. It is often used for construction and finishing of premises. But without special training, the wood will not serve you for a very long time. It is one of the main stages of wood preparation for use.

An interesting and popular wood drying method is wood drying in salt. Consider this method in more detail:

Wood drying in salt - how does it work?

Tree is natural material With high humidity, in the tree trunk there are capillaries, which contain liquid. This fluid, the tree absorbs from the soil and from ambient. In this fluid, in addition to water contained nutrients.

Cannot be used in production. Such wood is poorly processed, not glued, and during operation it can change its form, which will lead to cracking and appearance of slots in the product. Before using wood, it is necessary to dry thoroughly. Ideal, for such a material as a tree, the humidity is not higher than 10-12%. In principle, the tree dries well and in natural conditions and for this you do not need to make any additional efforts. It is enough to place wood in a well ventilated room and forget about it for a while. But it causes a number of inconvenience, firstly, it is long enough, and secondly, you need to have a room in which enough space for drying need quantity material. How can I ease and speed up the drying process of the tree?

One of the most affordable methods is wood cooking. You can digest wood in conventional fresh water, but the larger effect gives the digestion of wood in salted water.

Drying wood Digestion in salt accelerates the drying process and improves the quality of the tree. The fact is that the Wood Wood in Soleny Water speeds up the process of removal of juice, which is contained in wood cells, which in turn reduces the total time required for drying wood. The digestion of wood in salt makes it soft, it dries faster, which helps to warn cracking and changing the shape of the material during the further drying. Also, the digestion of the tree in the salt helps to improve the appearance of the tree.

Digestion of wood in salts at home

Drying wood digestion in salts One of the methods that can easily be used at home.

Wood digestion in salts are produced using a 25% salt solution. Wood must be placed in a container filled with brine cooking on medium heat for two to three hours. Time may vary depending on the amount of wood.

Small pieces of wood wooden details Or the billet can be digest using a large saucepan and the usual household slab. The solution is done in such a proportion: one liter of water is about five tablespoons of salt.

For large number The tree usually use specially equipped baths. Wizards, which use this drying method, often independently produce baths with mounted heating elements.

To warm the capacity with material will suit Also a bonfire.

For more information about the digestion of wood in salted water, see the video. Happy viewing!

Irina Zheleznyak, Sobcor Internet editions "Atmwood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"

How useful information to be useful for you?