Russian stove without heating. The device and principle of operation of the Russian stove

Despite the total electrification and gasification, the Russian stove can still be found in private houses, and not only in villages, but also in cities. The range of its application is wide enough. The Russian stove not only directly heats the room. You can also cook food on it, dry things, and just lie down on cold winter evenings. Thanks to this, the Russian stove continues to remain so popular to this day. It is quite possible to build it with your own hands, but this requires, of course, a certain amount of knowledge. If you are not sure about own forces, it would be better to turn to professional craftsmen.

What is good about the Russian oven

Let's note one point. In fact, Russian stoves can be different. In particular, they are distinguished, for example, by size, by:

  • small;
  • medium;
  • big.

Let us warn you right away - the process of building it is rather complicated.

Before starting such work, you first need to study the features of such a structure, to understand its features. Generally speaking, the following departments should be present in the Russian oven:

  • cold stove;
  • baking;
  • six;
  • cooking chamber (crucible)
  • overtube;
  • bed;
  • view.

Let's take a closer look at it. The cold stove is designed for storing dishes there. In principle, you can do without it - the decision in this case is made individually, taking into account other features of your project. Another department that not all Russian stoves have is baking. Its main purpose is to dry wood. Accordingly, baking is often rejected because it is unnecessary.

The six is ​​a niche located in front of the crucible. As a rule, a cooker is installed here. In addition, the six also serves to maintain the desired temperature of already cooked food. Such use is possible if the stove is located somewhere else.

The bottom of the crucible is called under. Install it with a slight slope towards the entrance to the cooking chamber. This advice has a very useful practical significance... The inclined bottom makes it easy to move the dishes. One more important point- the bottom surface will better need to be carefully sanded.

The crucible is one of the main parts of the Russian stove. They put firewood and dishes here. It should be noted that the vault of the furnace should have a slight slope towards the exit. This is necessary so that hot air accumulates under the ceiling, warming up the walls of the stove and the stove bench. The latter, by the way, is located above the furnace, behind the chimney. And, finally, the view is a window with a door that serves to block the chimney. In addition, it is possible to get through the view to the damper responsible for traction control.

The above scheme is, one might say, classic. Modern Russian stoves are complemented by such elements as the above-mentioned cooker for cooking, as well as a tank for heating water. To required temperature achieved faster, using heating of the underfloor section. This, incidentally, allows you to reduce the time required to accelerate the heating process of the room.

The design of the Russian stove provides for the presence of several departments. Accordingly, in summer period when there is no need to heat the room, it is used only for cooking. That is, only the hob is involved. V winter period as a rule, all departments are already warming up.

How can you make a Russian oven yourself

Preparatory work begins with choosing a location. This is one of the most important points, and there are many factors to consider, for example the material from which the walls of the house are made. In this case, we are talking, first of all, about security. For example, if the walls are wooden, then there should be a distance of at least 20 centimeters between them and the stove. It is also recommended to take additional fire-fighting measures. The most popular option is protection wooden walls houses with asbestos slabs.

In order to build a Russian stove with your own hands, you will need tools. In particular, here you will need:

  • trowel, or trowel;
  • building level;
  • hammer pickaxe;
  • plumb line;
  • rule;
  • measuring bar - with its help the width of the seams is measured;
  • ordering - this device allows you to maintain the verticality of the masonry.

In addition, you will need the following materials:

  • clay and sand for mixing;
  • refractory and chamotte material;
  • grate;
  • wire (soft);
  • doors;
  • asbestos cord.

When building large furnaces, a foundation is indispensable. This moment is best taken into account even when building a house. The best option here would be monolithic construction from reinforced concrete. Another important point. The foundation of the stove is an independent structure, and it has nothing to do with the support of the house itself. Everything should be done thoroughly at this stage. During the construction process, be sure to check the horizontalness of the foundation, because the reliability of the entire structure depends on it.

After everything is ready, you can start building the oven itself. In order to get it right, it is best to use a pre-drawn drawing. The most important moment in the construction of a furnace is the correct order. To ensure the safety of the structure, the masonry must be completely sealed. Accordingly, bricks with cracks are immediately scrapped.

Typically, the thickness of the seams between the rows is between 5 and 8 millimeters. Some people recommend using clay to improve the tightness. However, in fact, by smearing the inside of the oven walls with this material, you will only reduce the thermal conductivity. In addition, clay promotes soot deposition.

It is recommended to soak ceramic bricks before laying. Thanks to this simple procedure this material then it will not then absorb water from the solution. Thanks to soaking, they will dry out at the same time, and as a result, the tightness of the walls will be enough high level... Now there is one more important point. Internal walls are laid out only in half a brick. This is quite enough. The thing is that the walls laid out in one brick will be thicker. Accordingly, the time required to warm them up will increase, and the fuel consumption will become much higher.

Now let's look at such an important point as the order mentioned above. During the construction process, you should adhere to a certain scheme. In this case, all rows must be laid dry. Before you start laying, you need to outline the location of the walls - this is done using chalk, a corner and a ruler. Next, the bricks of the outer wall are laid. Work should start with this. After that, the inner surface is already filled.

It is easy to guess that the strength of the entire structure depends on how the 1st row of bricks is laid. Therefore, in the process of work, pay to this moment Special attention... The 2nd row is the beginning of laying the stove wall. Internal channels for cleaning it are also formed here.

When erecting the 3rd row, doors are placed for the cleaning and blowing chambers. They are fixed with steel wire, the ends of which are then hidden in the seams between the bricks. 4th row - at this stage, masonry blocks the entrances to the internal channels. Here you should also be extremely careful and follow the drawing exactly.

Laying the 5th row, install a grate for a large firebox. From the inside, the firebox is laid out cut in two (in thickness) fireclay bricks... In addition, a small firebox door is also installed. 6th row - at this stage, they put a tank designed to heat water. We also continue laying the firebox - refractory bricks are best suited for this.

In terms of the complexity of construction, a classic Russian stove surpasses brick heaters of other designs, so without skills and practice it will not work to fold it with your own hands. The cost of construction does not inspire either, because even at modern model the hearth mini-stove will go about 800 pcs. quality bricks. But due to their high efficiency (efficiency over 60%) and heat capacity, these structures remain attractive to many homeowners. We also decided not to bypass them and give you detailed description masonry simple option oven equipped with a stove bench.

We study the device and principle of operation

At the moment, the traditional Russian stove has undergone many improvements. There are options for heaters with a fireplace, hob and an oven, as well as outdoor complexes - barbecues, built under sheds or in large gazebos. But the basis for all of these structures is an old hearth stove with a chimney pushed out to the front. Its structure is shown in detail in the diagram:

Reference. The approximate dimensions of the structure, most often erected in ancient Russia, are 3 x 2 x 2.5 arshins or 2130 x 1420 x 1780 mm. The last number indicates the height to the top of the bed.

Let's list the design features:

  1. The building rests on a foundation and a guardianship - 4 walls with a cavity inside for storing household equipment or a portion of firewood - a bake (otherwise, a bake). Previously, the base was made of wood, now it is built of bricks.
  2. The furnace body consists of two compartments. Front - bend - is enclosed by walls pre-furnace surface ending at the top with a chimney. The back part is an oblong crucible with an inclined hearth and a semicircular vault. The latter also leans towards the mouth at a certain angle.
  3. The cavities between the outer walls and the crucible are filled with clean sand or a clay-sand mixture. The overlap over the top filling plays the role of a couch.
  4. In front and on the sides of the heater, there are several small niches - stoves.
  5. In its simplest design, the chimney is equipped with an inspection door and a damper (the old name is a view).

The movement of gases and heat in the firebox

The principle that the Russian stove uses when working is quite simple and at the same time effective. To the wood burned in the furnace, air enters through the mouth and the bend window, and the flow spreads along the lower part of the hearth, closer to the hearth. Lighter combustion products move towards it along the upper zone, leaving the mouth in smoke channel... How this happens is clearly shown in the figure above.

An important point. Effective heating of heat-consuming walls and sand filling is achieved due to the inclination of the vaults and the hearth of the stove. Hot air cannot escape until it cools and becomes heavier. This principle is used in modern bell furnaces.

After the flame has died out, thick walls return heat for a long time to the room and the furnace, where you can make delicious pastries, cook varied dishes or bake bread by home recipe. Detailed overview look at the video:

We spread the Russian stove with a stove bench

The most difficult moment is the laying of the inclined vaults of the furnace. Therefore, for a start, we propose to execute a classic design without additional elements - stoves, ovens, and so on. If you successfully build the stove shown in the photo, then later take a more complex project at your own discretion.

The drawing below shows a sectional view of a relatively small stove with dimensions of 1650 x 1270 x 1540 (the height of the bench). Such a mini-structure will fit into the interior country cottage, and in a small house in the country. From additional functions there is only a stranglehold for heating a samovar and a stove on one of the walls (you can make more of them).

Construction is carried out in several stages:

  1. Procurement of building materials.
  2. The device is a solid foundation.
  3. Erection of the body of the furnace and chimney.
  4. Drying and primary heating.

Now let's look at the whole process in stages.

Preparation of materials and fixtures

Before making a small Russian stove with your own hands, you need to buy the following materials:

  • corpulent red ceramic brick - 1650 pcs .;
  • a valve with a "live" section of 26 x 24 cm;
  • cleaning door;
  • dry clay-sand mixture for laying stoves and fireplaces, calculated for the preparation of 70 buckets of mortar;
  • building materials for the foundation - cement M400, sand, roofing material;
  • basalt cardboard or felt;
  • roofing steel sheet.

Varieties of figured bricks

Advice. You should not experiment and make a mortar from clay and sand on your own, unless you are an experienced stove-maker. Ready-made price building mixture not so great as to save on the reliability of the structure.

Apart from ordinary bricks standard sizes 25 x 12 x 6.5 cm, now on sale there is a figured stone intended for laying arched vaults. It is divided into 2 types - a wedge-shaped brick and the so-called heel with one hewn edge, laid in the base of the arch.

To work, you need a regular masonry tool: a trowel, a pickaxe, a wooden or rubber mallet, as well as a building level, a tape measure and a plumb line. In addition, before starting work, you need to make a template for masonry arched vault, which is a frame made of a bar with circles and a flooring of boards. What a wooden fixture looks like is shown in the figure below.

Formwork for the formation of brick vaults

Pouring the foundation slab

As you can imagine, the Russian stove is a rather heavy construction. In our case, its weight will be 1650 x 3.5 = 5.8 tons (calculated by brick mass). The base must be appropriate, therefore, a pit 180 x 140 cm in size should be dug at the construction site, taking into account a protrusion of 50 mm on each side of the dimensions of the heater. The depth of the pit is determined by the location of stable soil horizons, and even easier - by the existing foundation of the house.

An important point. It is unacceptable to combine the stove base with the building foundation. Provide a minimum indent of 10 cm, as shown in the photo.

  1. Tamp the bottom of the pit, then fill it with sand to a height of 100 mm and also compact it.
  2. Prepare a very thin slurry of cement and clay.
  3. When filling the pit with rubble stone, spill all cavities with mortar until you reach ground level.
  4. Cover the resulting base in 2 layers with roofing felt to avoid capillary rise of moisture from the soil. Simply put, do waterproofing.

Ordinal masonry process

Before starting masonry work, a sheet of metal and basalt cardboard (or felt soaked in liquid clay) should be laid on the finished foundation. Then prepare a bucket of water and mix the mortar according to the instructions on the packaging of the building material. If you do not have enough experience in stove business, then first read general recommendations on the masonry set out.

Now you can lay the solid first row of the Russian stove, focusing on the order. Pay attention to how its corners are made of chipped bricks - three-quarters. This is necessary to ensure correct dressing of subsequent rows. Further, the walls of the guardianship and the arched opening are formed, with the help of stones chipped at the corners. To lay out the 5th row, which includes semicircular arch, install in the opening wooden formwork... In this case, the bricks of the two side walls are also constrained to fit the template that forms the arch.

On the sixth row, the sidewalls are laid out in half a brick, and the front and rear walls are in a whole brick, after which the arch formwork is placed. A vault of wedge-shaped stones and heels is arranged on it, and the body of the furnace is erected in parallel. After laying the 10th row, the opening is carefully covered with sand.

Advice. If you cannot get wedge-shaped bricks, put a vault of stones of standard sizes, wedging them with small fragments and mortar.

Row number 11 is made solid in order to block the backfill, and the 12th row forms under. Bricks that have turned out to be the bottom of the firebox (crucible) are not bound by the solution. The next steps are the laying of the walls of the furnace and the installation of the formwork at the mouth of the fuel chamber.

In the 17th row, 8 bricks must be cut under the large arch of the furnace, after which the formwork must be put back and the arch laid out. Having reached the 20th row, the sand filling operation is repeated.

Solid rows No. 21 and 22 are the basis of the bed. Further, the laying continues only in the front part, where the bend and the chimney are finally formed.

A door is placed on the 26th row, and a latch on the 32nd. Above, the laying of a chimney continues, diverting combustion products to the street.

To go through wooden floor in compliance with fire safety standards, chimney you need to lay out the cut. This is the expansion of the chimney, increasing the distance from the inner wall of the pipe to wooden structures... The masonry cutting scheme is shown in the order:

Drying and first kindling

If a Russian stove with a stove bench was laid out in compliance with the technology, including with soaking bricks, then initially its walls contain a large number of moisture. It takes time and effort on your part to remove it, since you cannot immediately heat the stove to the maximum - the masonry will crack. It is necessary to wait 3 days for the primary drying of the solution, and then proceed in this order:

  1. Open the door and light a small fire right on the view, opening the flap fully. This will dry the chimney and remove airlock, because of which the stove will begin to smoke heavily into the room.
  2. Put some brushwood in the crucible and light it. Then keep a small fire going for 2 hours.
  3. Repeat the operation every day for 2 weeks, gradually increasing the portion of firewood. A sign of complete drying is the absence of dark streaks on the walls of the stove and chimney.

If cracks have formed in the masonry during the drying process, they must be carefully cut with a knife, and then filled with a thick solution of clay and water. The technology of building a brick heater is clearly demonstrated in the video:

Conclusion

If you have recently started mastering the furnace business, our publication on the construction of a Russian stove will be useful in an introductory plan, so that you can imagine the volume and procedure of work. To get the maximum information, we recommend that you study the popular book by Gennady Fedorov "Russian Stove", and also work with experienced stove-maker in apprentices. Armed with theoretical and practical knowledge, you can definitely take on such a construction.

Design engineer with over 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dahl with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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Is it possible to fold a Russian stove with your own hands? This is really possible, but first you should carefully study the instructions, carefully disassemble all the schemes, but most importantly, it would be nice to have an internship with a professional.

The best option would be to do everything necessary work under the supervision of a qualified stove-maker who will prevent possible mistakes when reading an order in progress.

The problem is that just one incorrectly placed brick can ruin everything.

There are often cases when, due to such an oversight, the masonry had to be completely redone, since either there was no traction at all, or it was too strong.

If you are not afraid of warnings and are not afraid of possible difficulties, and you decide to test yourself as a stove-maker without making irreparable mistakes, it is important to follow the instructions exactly and follow the rules of work. In addition, the choice of material should be approached with all responsibility.

You need to know the necessary parameters for the device of capital heating devices so that they fully comply with specially developed standards: this is the only way to avoid claims from fire inspectors.

The main difficulty of cooking correct solution consists in the selection of components. The clay can be either too oily or too lean. For the masonry of stoves, a thicker material is preferable, giving the mixture the elasticity necessary for the seams. It is difficult to determine the optimal ratio of elements, which is important for the preparation of a composition of proper quality.

Before preparing the mixture, the soaked clay is rubbed through a mesh with a mesh size of 0.5 cm to obtain the most homogeneous mass. When they go to the hoard of the furnace, instead of sand, chamotte powder is often used, in proportion to three parts of clay, one part of chamotte.

To avoid becoming a source of danger in the home, the stove must be completely sealed. Poor quality materials, such as cracked bricks, must not be used. should be between 5 and 8 millimeters.

To ensure tightness, do not coat with clay inner surface ovens, as this mixture will aggravate soot build-up and also reduce the thermal conductivity of the device.

Masonry is carried out in different departments of the structure in different ways- brick length, quarter brick and half brick. The ligation of the stove corners is performed different ways, but main principle- this is an interlacing of a brick poke and a spoon. Lay out the building according to special instructions: the order of Russian stoves describes in detail how, and in which row, the brick should lie, which additional parts are needed at each specific stage.


Ceramic brick must be well soaked before laying so that it does not absorb water from the solution. Further, the mortar and the brick will lose moisture evenly, with good mutual adhesion, which ensures reliable tightness. The solution protruding from the seams is immediately removed from both the inside and outside of the masonry. So the structure will be as functional and tidy as possible.

Internal walls are usually laid in half a brick, external in half, or in a whole stone. Thick outer walls increase the heating time of the oven and also require more fuel. Therefore, the most commonly used the best option- half a brick for both sides.

Russian stove with a stove bench: drying

The masonry process is finally completed. But this does not mean that it is already possible to begin to fully exploit it. If you immediately start to drown it thoroughly, it will dry unevenly, acquiring ugly stains on the surface. The mortar filling the joints can begin to crack, which will lead to the depressurization of the system.

Russian stoves have come to the current user from the depths of centuries. Modern interpretations are somewhat different from the old ones, but in general they repeat all architectural and functional moments... The effectiveness of the structure with a stove bench and a cooking stove is beyond doubt. The only question is whether to make one or order project drawings (as well as masonry and test run) for specialists.

Before delving into the topic, you should understand the definition.

    Until now, such a term as ordering is in use - this is:
  • and the masonry itself (the brick is laid out layer by layer horizontally, with a detailed receipt for the locations of the equipment elements);
  • and the type of stove structure (stove-ordering, in which each layer is associated with the placement of an element).

In general terms, Russian means a stove endowed with the following features:

  • massiveness and scope (as a rule, the structure occupies at least ¼ of the hut, and sometimes half);
  • the presence of beds (they are also called a couch - a place where people fit during sleep or in case of ailments to warm up);

  • the combination of a heating base with a cooking stove;
  • mainly firewood is used for heating.

V vintage models it was customary to use the firebox itself for cooking food, surrounded by red-hot wood-burning fires (fireproof food containers with porridge or stew with a "horned" grip were placed inside the firebox, where they languished for several hours).

Today there are, in which it is allowed to use coke coal in the furnace. It gives more heat than regular wood, but coal dust is also a big problem. At the same time, a horizontal stove is used in cooking food, and the effect of "languor" has to be abandoned.

Such heating structures are relevant for Russia, the eastern regions of Ukraine, as well as northern regions Belarus. If you are interested in a diagram or masonry, there is practically no information in Western European sources.

The dimensions of some models reach 1.5-2 m in length and / or width. In height (we do not take into account the chimney) more than 1.2-1.5 meters. Probably, it is difficult to believe in it, but the most gigantic stoves reached such dimensions that inside them it was quite possible for a person to wash themselves. V modern conditions such projects, of course, are not in demand.

The device of the Russian stove

    The main elements, without which the device of the Russian stove is unthinkable:
  • foundation (guardianship);
  • cooking chamber, it is also a firebox, also called a crucible or firebox. Located under the couch. The air for burning firewood enters through the throat, and after heating it is directed to the overtube, and then into the chimney for removal to the street;
  • cheeks - the front wall of the firebox;
  • mouth - the gap between the cheeks of the firebox to connect the firebox with chimney and a heated room;
Also, an important role of the mouth is the laying of dishes and firewood in the firebox (crucible).
  • the vault is the uppermost layer of the firebox. During operation, it is exposed to intense heating, therefore it is prone to the formation of cracks from incandescence. Here it is necessary to attract the most heat-resistant and heat-absorbing materials;
  • under - the bottom of the cooking chamber (crucible). It has a slight slope towards the entrance to the firebox to make it easier for the user to slide in and out heavy dishes with food. Installed directly on the arch support. Provides the strength of bricks that are tapering along a cylindrical surface;
It is recommended that the top surface of the hearth be properly sanded to make it as easy as possible for heavy cast iron and other food containers to move.
  • baking (baking) inside the baking under the hearth. The element is designed for storing and drying firewood;
  • cooking stove. An independent surface, the basis of which is most often a cast iron, and sometimes a steel part. Located on the back;
  • six - a platform in front of the entrance to the crucible. This is where the plate is located, if it is provided in the model;
  • "Trough" or semi-circulating vault - covers the heat. Material scatters on the trough, they are able to retain heat (brick chips, sand, pebbles);
  • wards (in some regions they say "polati") or overlap. This element is also called a couch - a place where people go to sleep. V classic models located strictly behind the chimney, in some more modern ones - moved to any side. It is at this level that the ordering ends with the most top layer bricks;
  • hailo - smoke outlet above the pole in front of the mouth. It is a bell that widens downward. During the operation of the stove, smoke from burning wood goes there.

More complex projects may include a number of other elements - for retaining heat, for placing cooling prepared food and cold clean dishes. The higher the user requirements, the more complicated scheme stoves, its arrangement and bricklaying.

DIY Russian stove

We must pay tribute to the courage of some enterprising people, but making order with a stove bench and a cooking surface with your own hands is enough bold decision... The fact is that no matter how intelligible the design diagram looks on paper, it is quite difficult to translate it into reality. Still, there are recommendations for decisive people.

Tools for the job

    What tools do you need:
  • container for mixing the solution;
  • measuring bar so that the width of the masonry joints;
  • the building level is a must! Without it, it is guaranteed that the structure will have a roll, and it will be impossible to eliminate it at the end of the laying;
  • rule (with its help, the surface of the foundation is leveled - a one-time operation);
  • a plumb line (also an extremely important device, it serves to clarify the vertical curvature in any desired place);
  • ordering - a special device for multi-level oven masonry;
  • Master OK;
  • pick hammer - hand tool, allowing you to chop a solid brick into pieces instead of cutting with a grinder.

Materials and accessories

When creating a Russian stove with a stove bench and a stove, you will need additional elements, thanks to which you will achieve the desired functionality:

    • hardened brick (M-200 is recommended) in the amount of 1850-1900 pieces;
    • oily pure clay 245-250 kg;
    • cleaned sand 295-310 kg;
The quantities of bricks, sand and clay are given in quantities calculated for model 2.3 long, 2.0 m high, 1.6 m wide.
  • grate bars;
  • furnace, cleaning and blowing doors;
  • firebox damper;
  • smoke damper;
  • hob;
  • steel sheet, steel corner, water heating tank - according to the situation and depending on the project.
The number of doors and grates is determined based on the nuances of the project.

Layer order

In competently drawn up working drawings, the Russian order with a stove bench and a stove is represented by each level separately. Otherwise, it will be impossible to fold the stove due to the complexity of its internal (not visible from the outside) device.

      Typical example:
    • row 1. The layer is laid without screed directly on the floor waterproofing. Overheated brick is suitable, since the impact high temperatures will not;
    • row 2. Along the edges of the future hearth, bricks are placed on the edge, and if non-solid bricks are used, in the next row they must be covered with solid ones;
    • row 3. Similar to the previous one. It is also recommended to install a blower door here;
    • row 4. It is laid in the same way as the 2nd;
Be sure to leave room for the purge channel in this row.
    • row 5th. The clean-out channel continues. Make the foundation for future arched vaults;
    • row 6. Narrowing of the clearing channel begins. The grate is being installed;
The grates are cast iron or steel grates through which the air flow with improved draft passes. They allow oxygen to pass through and retain the ash residue from the combustion fuel.
    • rows 7th, 8th. This is where the steel sheet is placed. It is also necessary to fix the wire to fix the fire door. The hearth is finished;
    • row 9. A sand bed is made. Bricks along the entire row of the future hearth are installed on the edge.
    • rows 10th, 11th. The same as the previous one. Installed on top hob... It is best to lay bricks in half at the edge of the hearth;
    • rows 12th, 14th, 16th. Just like the previous ones.
It is recommended to start raising the arch on the 15th row.
  • rows 17th, 18th. A knitting metal wire is laid between them. On these rows, the vault narrows;
  • rows from 19th to 21st. The work on the bench is being completed;
  • row 22. At this level, the rise of the high begins. At this stage, the masonry is very difficult and responsible;
  • rows from 23rd to 31st. A tubular channel is formed. V the right places blowers and valves are placed.

Summing up, we note the availability of masonry ovens with a stove bench and a cooking panel. It is possible to carry out what you have conceived with your own hands, although it will require a high concentration of attention, thoroughness and repeated refinements in the calculations. Be sure to enlist the support of an experienced specialist - if not practical actions, then at least useful tips with his hand.

Since ancient times, Russia has been famous for its craftsmen who have achieved excellence in many areas. Stove business was no exception. On the basis of historical documents, it can be concluded that for many centuries Russia has firmly retained its leadership in the furnace business. The chicken-type stove, that is, with the missing chimney, served for a long time as an ideal example of the Russian one. In 1718, however, Peter I issued a decree according to which the use of chimney stoves was strictly prohibited. It was this decree that pushed many domestic stove-makers and architects to create a completely new design.

To successfully complete the laying of a traditional Russian stove, you should learn some of the subtleties of its functioning and device. Depending on the region, the stove could have a unique shape. Sometimes one could see extremely interesting specimens. On average, the dimensions of the Russian stove were as follows:

  • 2 yards wide;
  • 3 yards long;
  • 2.5 arshins in height (arshins - about 71 centimeters).

A stove with such dimensions could easily heat a room, the area of ​​which was about 3 tens of squares. In most cases, the stove was located in a corner near front door... Before laying, the master always made solid foundation using broken bricks or stones. Any stove had a special structural element - the baking oven, where it was stored necessary tool... To preserve heat, a special material was placed between the vaults and the wall of the stove.

During the construction process, the master used bricks, as well as special mortar... The classic technology involves the use of red clay bricks, which are characterized by maximum strength.

Construction features

To make a classic Russian stove, you will have to take 1650 bricks, a valve (the dimensions of the hole should be 26 by 24 centimeters), a view with a half-door, as well as such an amount of clay and sand, which would be enough for 80 buckets of mortar.

According to the classical scheme, the arch of the crucible is necessarily located at a certain slope towards the mouth. We must not forget about a small ledge-sill, the main task of which is that it does not allow sparks flying out of the furnace to get inside the pipe. In addition, it is the nut that collects all the soot that comes out of the stove.

Directly during the construction process, the main assistants should be orders, that is, sections that run in the horizontal plane. Thanks to these cuts, you can get an absolute idea of ​​how to approach the laying of a new row when there is a need to use whole or broken bricks, where additional wood fixtures and metal appliances must be placed.

Orders and their scheme

The first row is laid directly on the foundation, the basis of which is a cement mortar and brick. Before you start laying the first row, you should lay roofing material or roofing felt, which will act as a protection against moisture. Ideally, the construction of the first row should be carried out with overheated bricks, which are more resistant to water influences.

In order to achieve perfect dressing of the seams in the next row, three bricks should be laid at the corners of the starting row ¾. One of the 3/4 bricks, as well as the brick adjacent to it, must be beveled for the most snug fit.

The second row is the first row in the process of laying out the walls of the guard. In order to prevent the seams from coinciding, 4 bricks ¾ are used on the front wall of the guardian (in the 3rd row).

For the fourth row, exclusively solid brick is used. For a pair of bricks that mark the entrance to the interior of the furnace, the corners must be beveled so that they are used as supports for the arch.

In the opening of the support, the timber formwork should be placed. After completing the work on the arch, you can deal with the fifth row. To avoid overlapping seams of adjacent rows, lay 3 bricks ¾ at the corners. The nuance of this series lies in the fact that 2 dozen bricks of the side walls need to be chipped off at a certain angle so that they become supports for the vaults of the furnace.

The sixth row assumes that the side walls of the guardroom are one brick thick, and the front and rear walls are 2. In the space between inner walls there is a formwork with an upper part of a semicircular shape, which is in accordance with the configuration of the arch of the sub-furnace. The configuration of the formwork is immediately determined taking into account the possibility of disassembling the structure without any problems and pulling it out through the opening, which allows you to get into the furnace.

Once the formwork is in place, you can work on the vault. Ideally, when laying the vault, wedge-shaped bricks should be used, which not only contribute to the ideal surface of the structure, but also its maximum strength. You can make such a brick yourself if you carefully process the edges. If it is not possible to make such a brick, then it is quite possible to use the usual one.

In such a situation, it is necessary to control that the lower edges of the bricks are in close contact, and the gaps between the upper ones are equal to each other and filled with cement. You can increase the strength of the vault if you place broken bricks in the gaps that exactly match them in size.




After the arch of the underfire, you can engage in 7 and 8 rows. Laying 7 resembles the first row, while 8 can be made entirely of solid bricks. In the 8th row, you must not forget to lay out a platform for a cold stove. Row 9 is the first row connected to the walls of the stove. There must be dry sand between the walls, and the 11th row must 100 percent overlap not only the stove, but also the backfill.

In the 13th row, the laying of the walls of the furnace and the pole begins. A metal strip must pass between these two elements, which in its configuration exactly matches the mouth of the stove. In the strip, it is necessary to provide holes in advance through which a steel wire is threaded, which is subsequently fixed in the masonry.

Subsequent rows, up to 17, are required to build up the walls of the two structures described below. In the 17th row, 8 bricks should be placed in the walls of the furnace, which were previously hewn and chipped. It is on these bricks that the vault of the furnace will rest. In fact, the masonry of the crucible itself is completely identical to the process of masonry of the vault.




When the work on the vault is completed, you can deal with 18 side by side. On the sides of the sixth window, a pair of heels should be fixed, which will become supports for the small size of the arch. When laying subsequent rows, it should be remembered that the space between the vault and the walls of the furnace should be filled with perfectly dry sand with an admixture of broken bricks, gravel and glass.

Row 21 should completely close the backfill and the furnace. Row 22 makes this “cover” even stronger. The 23rd row implies the strengthening of the shield walls, as well as the pertubes, in which the strangle box is fixed, intended for the samovar. When laying the next rows, the overtube overlaps, but a couple of holes remain. The first is necessary for a samovar chimney, the second is for a view. When laying a couple of the following rows, a half-door is fixed in the opening of the view.

In row 31, next to one of the walls, it is necessary to place an additional row of three bricks so that the resulting chute facilitates the extraction of smoke into the chimney. The overtube in the next row can be completely closed. Only on the right in the overtube it is necessary to provide a hole closed by a valve. After the 33rd row, only the chimney is built up.

Right at the ceiling, you need to do the cutting, which involves filling in bricks. By cutting wooden ceiling structures move away from the pipe. In addition, cutting is an important decorative element... However, it has a groove and a practical function of increasing heat transfer.