To rejuvenate strawberry bushes, to restore the ability of plants to bear fruit, or simply to expand the garden, transplanting strawberries to a new place was invented. It is important to carry out the procedure correctly and at the right time. We will talk about when to transplant strawberries to a new place and how to do it in this article.

If you are in the mood for a good harvest, replanting strawberries to a new location should be part of the mandatory maintenance of the garden. Usually the plant is planted once every three years. The first four years (maybe less, depending on the variety) strawberries grow vigorously, after which the yield drops. In order for the plant to begin to delight again with an abundance of fruits, it is necessary to transplant strawberries. This procedure will refresh the plantings. After transplanting, the strawberries will bear fruit well again. In addition, for several years, many bacteria and pests have accumulated in the soil where the plants "lived", so the transplant will benefit strawberries.

When to transplant and plant strawberries

Before getting down to business, every farmer asks himself when to transplant strawberries to a new place. It is not necessary to carry out the procedure under the scorching sun rays. The best time to transfer is evening. It is best to build an awning for young shoots.

It is very important to take into account the weather phenomena so that the plants take root well. You can transplant strawberries only in cool weather, when the air temperature does not exceed 20⁰С.

In terms of the time of year, the only time to avoid replanting strawberries is winter. Spring, summer and fall are considered to be the right times. In all these cases, the transplantation of garden strawberries is equally successful.

Transplanting strawberries in spring allows the plants to take root over the summer, while the fruits appear only the next year. Planting strawberries in summer is done after the end of fruiting. And transplanting strawberries in the fall is a great way to harvest the next summer.

Also, in the question of when to transplant strawberries, it is worth considering the climatic characteristics of the territory in which you grow them. Precipitation, the duration of warm seasons, the time of the first cold weather - all this must be taken into account. In order for the berry to grow well, it needs a certain temperature and humidity. Young plants must take root.

Transplant in spring

When the weather was warm outside, and the bushes came to life, spring transplant strawberries will come in handy. Transplanted plants, subject to regular watering and protection from the aggressive sun, will quickly take root in a new place. It is important that the cold does not return, otherwise you will not get the harvest.

The timing of transplanting strawberries in the spring depends on the climatic characteristics of the region and the plant variety. Early varieties in warm regions are transplanted in early April. However, if your area is characterized by a cool or erratic spring, it is best to wait until May and hold the event before flowering. A berry transplanted in spring is carefully looked after: watered and fed regularly.

How to transplant

At the first stage, diseased and weak plants that have died during the winter period are removed. Next, the transplanted plants are dug up by the root. After that, prepare wide and deep pits for landing. Sand is poured into the bottom of each of them with a ten-centimeter layer. During planting, carefully monitor the "heart" of the plant, it should not be too deep or raised above the surface.

The soil is compacted a little, and slightly loosened on top. If you decide to transplant strawberries in the spring, then the first time you need to fertilize them two weeks after the procedure.

What to feed in spring

In addition to how to properly plant strawberries, in order to get a harvest, you need to know how to further care for them. An important part of grooming is feeding. Strawberries are advised to be fed three times a year: in early spring(in April), before flowering, at the end of fruiting.

The first feeding can be carried out with organic and inorganic fertilizers. Organic matter includes: chicken droppings, ash, manure, humus. Organic fertilizers laid out under bushes or applied as aqueous solutions. You should be careful with chicken droppings, because of the large amount of nitrogen, its high concentration can harm the roots of the plant.

Inorganic fertilizers should contain potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and magnesium. The instructions on the packaging must be followed carefully. At your request, the agricultural store can select the optimal fertilizer for your strawberry variety.

Transplant in summer

The season when planting strawberries in order to expand the garden is best, is summer. The same time is suitable for rejuvenating plantings and planting young outlets. In summer, strawberries can be planted after fruiting. The exact time depends on the month in which a particular variety produces a crop. The best time for the procedure is July - August.

Several maternal shoots are left on the bushes, the extra ones are cut off. Plants are diligently fertilized, strong rosettes are planted from the mother bush. A new place for strawberries is prepared in advance. Rotted manure is brought in and digging is carried out. After the second digging, the strawberries can be planted. It is important that the roots of the seedlings do not dry out. When the strawberries are transplanted, all that remains is to follow the basic care rules and prepare the plant for winter in time.

Autumn planting

According to experienced gardeners, autumn is the best time to transplant strawberries. It is a rainy season, so you don't have to worry about watering the "young". The best month when replanting garden strawberries is most convenient is September, sometimes mid-October. Before winter, the plant has time to overgrow with leaves and how to take root. With warming, young bushes begin to grow actively and bring the first harvest.

Transplant technology

A lot has already been written about how to properly transplant strawberries. There are a number of basic rules that must be followed in order for plants to give good harvest... It is best to choose the piece of land on which legumes, garlic, carrots, radishes, and beets used to grow. It is also good to plant strawberries after siderat plants.

But after tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers and cabbage, you should not plant strawberries. If you do not have the opportunity to transfer your plantings to an area with predecessors suitable for berries, you should disinfect the soil with fungicides.

Loose, slightly acidic soils should be selected for strawberries. The soil is prepared in advance, rotted compost is added. For one square meter a bucket of fertilizer leaves. Organic matter is the only thing worth feeding strawberries at this stage. The garden is well watered the night before. Pits are dug just before planting. Leave 20-15 cm between the bushes, and half a meter between the rows.

When propagating strawberries, remember that the plant reproduces by young rosettes, and some varieties by dividing the bush. For the procedure, only strong bushes are needed, with a root lobe at least 5 cm in length and 4-5 leaves.

Before planting, the roots of the plant are dipped in hot water for 15 minutes. The water temperature should be about 50 degrees. Then for 10 minutes - in cold water... If it is not possible to immediately transplant, then the roots of the plant are wrapped with a wet rag and on top - cling film... After transplanting, you need to mulch.

If you are using a two-line planting pattern, the distance between the bushes will be approximately 25 cm, and between the lines - 40 cm, with a bed width of 80 cm.

Transplanting remontant strawberries

Often, gardeners have questions related to the transplantation of remontant strawberries. After all, you don't have to worry about strawberries when you can transplant them and propagate them with rosettes (mustaches). But remontant strawberries reproduce by dividing the bush, shoots or seeds.

The bush should be divided in the spring, after fruiting. Strong bushes are dug up and their roots are cleared from the ground. The plant is divided with a knife, taking care not to damage the heart. In this case, the transplanted part must have roots and at least three leaves. Last year's brown roots are removed, leaving white ones up to 7 cm long.

Small-fruited varieties planted in a permanent place according to the scheme 20x30 cm, and large-fruited - 80x30 cm. Seedlings of remontant strawberries are very fond of light, but they do not tolerate excess moisture.

If you want to move old bushes to a new place, and not just expand the garden, it should be borne in mind that this procedure is carried out every two years. It is better to spend it in September. At this time, it is still warm outside, and before the cold weather the plants will have time to take root. When transplanting, try not to bury the heart in the ground. In general, transplanting strawberries is almost as easy as transplanting strawberries. Repaired strawberries can be planted in the ground for the summer, and in pots for the winter.

Raspberries are one of the most beloved berries for all of us. Well, how can you not like it? Sweet with sourness and extraordinary aroma. And if you don't even have to go to the forest for her, then there is no price for her! Raspberry grown with my own hands, even tastier. But only with proper care, adherence to agricultural technology, raspberry bushes will be able to bring a big harvest.

Not all gardeners know how to properly transplant raspberries to a new place. But not only the harvest depends on this, but also the general condition, health of the bushes, their fertility, etc. Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to transplant raspberries in the autumn, when exactly this can be done, how and under what conditions.

Gardeners believe that the bushes of this berry can be transplanted practically throughout three seasons of the year - in spring, summer, and autumn. Only in winter, such events are not held. According to many experts, the most appropriate time is the end of summer, as well as autumn.

However, a large number of people follow different rules. Many raspberries are transplanted in the spring to avoid losses. Indeed, after transplantation, the plants become weak, it is more difficult for them to survive the cold season. Frosts can harm the bushes, from which the yield will be lost, and even the plants themselves will disappear.

Based on all this, there are several simple rules transplanting raspberries at different times.

• First, a spring transplant helps the bushes to get stronger, to take root before the onset of the next cold season. On the bushes transplanted in spring, a year later, root shoots will form and replacement will begin.
• In summer, raspberries can only be transplanted when the weather is right - not in extreme heat. At first, the bushes are shaded, protecting from the fiery rays of the sun.
• But with an autumn transplant, the most important thing is meeting the deadlines. If you do something wrong, then you can destroy all the bushes that do not have time to take root and freeze completely.

One thing can be said for sure - no matter what time raspberry bushes are planted or transplanted, the taste, color and aroma of their berries does not change at all from this.

Exact time for autumn transplant raspberry bushes, unfortunately, is impossible to call. This is influenced by various factors, the main of which can be considered:

• Berry variety;
• Climatic features of the region;
• Weather conditions for a specific year.

But the approximate dates, nevertheless, can be called. First, you need to pay attention to the condition of the raspberries. By the time the bushes begin to move to a new location, it should be fully ripe. There is one main indicator that the bushes are ready to be transplanted. Replacement buds should already appear on the root collar. This happens just in time for the end of the season. In early ripening varieties, such buds can be observed already in the middle of the first autumn month. And here late varieties ready for transplant in October.

Note! It is very important to complete all work on moving raspberries in the autumn before the onset of frost. At the same time, frosts are allowed no earlier than 20 days after transplanting the bushes. This is the only way they will be able to take root well and will not suffer from the cold.

First of all, you need to prepare the planting material. The success of the entire "operation" on the transplant depends on how correctly it is chosen. Most experts recommend choosing shrubs that are not too large for an autumn transplant. On the contrary, it is advised to replant plants of medium thickness or thin. They should have developed only three stems, no more. You need to make sure that root system was fibrous, developed. Its length should be up to 15 cm.

It is very important to thoroughly examine all bushes for any manifestations of disease. All bushes must be shortened to the desired length just before planting. The most suitable one is about 35 cm, no more.

This is another factor that directly affects the development of bushes and their productivity. Let's start with the fact that raspberries are a thermophilic plant. Therefore, select a site well for it. It should be bright and sunny enough. Also, you need to choose a cozy place so that the wind does not interfere with the development of plants. It is important to choose the right raspberry neighbors.

Experts emphasize: it should not be planted next to plants such as potatoes or tomatoes, fruit trees, and strawberries. And all because they suffer from the same diseases. If, for example, a garden with potatoes is damaged, then all other plants are at risk of infection. You can plant raspberries on those plots of land where gooseberries, currants or vegetables previously grew, except for those described above.

As for the soil, drained places, light loamy, fertile, are well suited for raspberries. The plant can also develop on sandy loam and sand. But for good growth, you will have to constantly fertilize the plant, water it more often.

Transplanting raspberries in the fall requires good soil preparation. A month or even a month and a half before the start of work on moving the bushes, it is necessary to pick up a site and start cleaning it. All weeds are eradicated, the earth is dug up.

At the same time, it is time to apply fertilizers. Compost or humus is excellent as such. For 1 m 2, you will have to spend at least 10-30 kg of substance. Superphosphates are also added, about 60-80 g each and potassium sulfate (about 50 g). It is recommended to enrich peat areas with sands. At least 4 buckets are brought in for 1 m 2.

How to plant raspberries correctly

For transplanting ordinary raspberries, the trench method is most suitable. It involves the preparation of special oblong depressions. The depth of such trenches should be about 40-45 cm. In width, they usually reach half a meter or a little more.

Harvested bushes are placed in each of the trenches. They need to be placed about 40 cm apart. The distance between the trenches themselves should be approximately 1.5 m.

If fertilizers were not applied during digging, then they must be added to the trench. If there is a fertile layer on the top of the site, then we simply fill it up at the bottom of the trenches as fertilizer. Already during the planting period, trenches are sometimes fertilized with ash. But this is allowed only with a low level of alkali in the soil.

Note! Nitrogen fertilizers are not used when transplanting raspberries. They can negatively affect plants, especially during the wintering period.

Before lowering the plants into the trench, it is recommended to moisten the roots in a solution of mullein and clay. Then the roots of the seedlings are covered with soil. The primer should cover them well, evenly. After that, it remains only to water the plants, compact the soil around the bushes and mulch it.

Interesting! Some gardeners recommend placing the trenches in a special way. Namely - to direct them from the northeast towards the southwest, or simply from the north to the south. In their opinion, this way the sun's rays will be able to better hit the raspberry bushes, especially in the morning and before lunch.

It is recommended to plant such varieties in a different way - dimple or bush. It also assumes the premature preparation of depressions 40 cm deep and about 60 cm in diameter. About one and a half meters are also left between the rows. Plants must be placed every 70-100 cm.

We also add fertilizer or the top fertile soil layer to the bottom. Further - everything is the same as when planting in a trench way: the soil under the bushes is compacted, watered, mulched.

The first step after transplanting raspberries is to install trellises. The bushes must be tied up so that they do not disappear. To do this, you can simply use the wire by pulling it along the rows. But experts recommend planting 2 bushes every 70 cm. So, when tying on trellises, the sun will be able to hit them without obstacles.

In the absence of mulch, water the raspberries every 7-10 days and weed the rows. The first feeding can be done after the bushes begin to grow in height. 10 kg of diluted mullein is introduced for each square meter. Mulching with dry manure is also allowed, which will seep well with spring rains.

Already before the onset of cold weather, the bushes must be watered, and then pressed to the ground so that they can be covered with a snow globe and not freeze. You can use the same wire as for the trellis.

It is important to pay attention to one point. Experts do not recommend replanting all raspberry bushes to a new place at once. This is especially true for beginners in gardening. This is fraught with the loss of all the bushes that you have. It is better to transfer the plant in parts over several years or seasons. So you can avoid big losses and choose the most convenient way transplants.

Raspberry transplant is an important activity that is necessary for the plant itself. After all, the bushes quickly deplete the soil, sucking out all the nutrients necessary for life from it. Therefore, a transplant to a new place after several seasons can be considered a forced agrotechnical measure. It is very important to remember that it is not recommended to grow raspberries in the same place longer than 10 years. Moreover, it is necessary to transplant it even more often - after 5-7 years. This will keep yields high or even improve.

How to transplant raspberries: video

As you can see, it is quite permissible to transplant the raspberry tree in the fall. But it is important to adhere to all the rules so as not to destroy your plants. Taking good care of them will help them get through the cold winter and start developing with renewed vigor in a new place.

Raspberry, beloved by many, is a very "gluttonous" shrub. The soil under it, even with regular feeding, is depleted in 5-8 years. The plant is no longer enough nutrients, which affects its condition, and, of course, the quality and quantity of the crop. Therefore, raspberries need a regular transplant to a new place.

But this simple, at first glance, manipulation does not always bring the expected result, and the productivity of the culture not only does not increase, but sometimes even falls. And sometimes the transplanted bushes simply die.

The reasons are known: this is non-compliance with the transplant technology, the wrong time chosen for this, or the lack of proper care for plants that have undergone a certain amount of stress. After reading this article, you can avoid such blunders and save your raspberry tree.

If you listen to gardeners or read their opinions online, it turns out that you cannot transplant raspberries only in winter, and all other seasons are suitable for this. Of course, this is not a general opinion, but the total result of all statements, since some believe best time spring, second summer, third autumn.

In fact, when choosing the timing for a transplant, several factors need to be taken into account, and among the main ones are the climatic features of the region and the type planting material... And this can be not only adult bushes, but also replacement shoots or root suckers.

• if the climate in the area of ​​growing raspberries is mild, and the winters are short and not cold, you can transplant the bushes both in spring and in autumn. In summer it is also possible, but in hot weather they take root worse and require more careful care;
• when transplanting in autumn in cold climates, seedlings may not have time to root well before the ground freezes, so it is advisable to do this in spring;
• remontant raspberries are best replanted in spring using root suckers. It bears fruit until the very frost, and it is simply a pity to touch it during the fruiting period;
• root shoots and replacement shoots of common raspberries in continental climates are recommended to be transferred to a new location in autumn or summer.

There is also a universal option, suitable for any climate and any form of seedlings: it's still spring. The period when the plants woke up and started to grow. V middle lane this is mid to late April. When transplanting bushes, choose the strongest and healthiest annual shoots with a stem thickness of at least 8-10 mm, which have not yet borne fruit.

For reference. Root offshoots are called shoots that grow at some distance from the main bush from the buds of the root system. And the replacement shoots grow close to the parent plant, forming from the buds of the main rhizome.

Root offspring are rarely used to replace the main plantings and only in case of poor survival of the main seedlings. Or they leave the strongest specimens in the row during the autumn cut, so that by the time of transplantation next season they have additional planting material.

Video - How and when to transplant raspberries

Transplant and follow-up care technology

Optimally chosen timing for transplanting raspberries does not guarantee a good result if you do not follow the rules for moving it to a new place of residence and do not provide proper care for the adaptation period.

How to transplant

When choosing a new plantation for a raspberry tree, give preference to those plots where you used to grow legumes... A former potato field, beds after onions, tomatoes are also suitable. They must be well lit by the sun and protected from strong winds.

Note! Fresh humus, compost and especially not rotted manure can cause root burns in raspberries. Therefore, such organic matter is necessarily covered with a layer of ordinary earth, and plants are already planted on it.

Having dug up plants from the old site, the best ones with a healthy and strong rhizome are selected from them, and the shoots are shortened to a height of no more than one meter. They are installed on the bottom of prepared holes or trenches and covered with earth, slightly deepening the root collar. At the same time, you can install pegs next to it, so that for the first time the young seedlings have a support.

It remains to water the plantings well, pouring a bucket of water under each bush, and mulch with chopped straw or other organic matter, so that moisture does not quickly evaporate from the soil, and the soil does not bake under the sun to form an airtight crust. In the following days, for better survival, the seedlings are recommended to be sprayed with warm water.

How to care

Even a properly transplanted raspberry that has successfully taken root in a suitable place may not give bountiful harvest if you do not look after her. What is required from a gardener to obtain a large number of useful, large and delicious berries?

How to care	Description
	Raspberries in this regard are quite capricious: they love water, but from its excess and especially from stagnation in the soil, it begins to rot and hurt. Therefore, it is best to water it only in hot and dry times, but abundantly.
	Fertilization of the soil should be carried out annually in the fall, for which organic matter is introduced under the bushes in the form of humus or compost, as well as ash and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Mulching is also recommended throughout the warm season. A layer of mulch on top protects the roots from overheating, and the ground from drying out, and from below it melts and decomposes, supplying the soil with additional nutrients.
	Weeding and loosening helps the soil stay breathable and rid the raspberries of unwanted neighbors that are taking away their food. However, a permanently renewable layer of mulch will make these operations extremely rare.
	Tying the bushes to supports helps them to hold the weight of the fruit well, not to bend or break under their weight or due to gusts of wind.
	In ordinary raspberry varieties, two-year-old shoots that have borne fruit are cut out in the fall, leaving only the strongest shoots of the current year. Repaired raspberries are cut out completely, as they bear fruit on annual shoots. In addition, in order to avoid thickening of the plantings, all small shoots and excess, weak and diseased shoots are cut out.

Certain varieties in colder climates also require warming for the winter. Why the bushes are bent to each other, tied and wrapped in non-woven material.

All of the above may seem complicated only at first glance. In fact, caring for raspberries does not take much time and does not require any special knowledge. With just a little attention, she will thank you with a myriad of aromatic and sweet berries.

Video - How to transplant raspberries

Yeast is considered a versatile substance used in the beauty industry, cooking and even in agriculture. They are the main ingredient in many foods. They also have a good effect on the condition of the skin of the face and the growth of horticultural and indoor ornamental crops. Therefore, they are often used as a yeast plant food.

Contrary to popular belief, after the harvest, with the arrival of autumn, summer cottage work does not end. During this period, gardeners are waiting for a lot of work on their site. Transplanting to a new location is one of those.

Why transplant strawberries

This peculiarity lies in the fact that after growing on one site for several years, its yield decreases, and after that it ceases to bear fruit altogether.

New antennae, peduncles, leaves are released annually. This increase ensures yields. By the 4th year, it stops, respectively, the yield falls. To avoid this phenomenon, a transplant is performed. When should you transplant strawberries? You will find the answer to this question below.

When strawberries are transplanted

Planting can be done in any season from spring to autumn. Let's consider the features of the work, depending on the season, in order to answer the question: "When is it better to replant in spring, summer or autumn?"

Transplant in spring

Spring events are held in April, when the active growth of the root system and bush begins. This process must be completed before flowering begins. What to look for:

• Before transplanting, remove bushes that have not survived the winter, are sick and stunted.
• Dig up the selected plants at the root.
• The holes should be made deep and spacious, a layer of sand should be covered at the bottom.
• Make sure not to bury the bush too deeply, but also not to expose the roots.
• Tamp the soil well, then loosen the top layer.
• Top dressing should be done only two weeks after transplanting.

Important! The bushes transplanted in spring bloom, but they do not bring crops.

Summer strawberry transplant

A transplant in summer is carried out when there is a desire to expand the plantation, or the bushes have grown too much and need rejuvenation. Summer seating nuances:

• Carried out in July-August, after fruiting.
• Young plants need to be shaded.
• Only a few shoots are left on donor bushes.
• The beds are prepared in advance, adding compost or manure to them, dug twice and only then start planting.

An autumn strawberry transplant is considered the most optimal and correct. Maintenance of transplanted bushes is minimized due to the presence of rain at this time of the year. Let us dwell separately on the peculiarities of transplanting in the fall.

Features of autumn strawberry transplantation: why autumn?

As mentioned above, the presence of precipitation has a beneficial effect on the rooting of new bushes, the absence of a bright sun does not dry them out. Before the first frost, the plants have time to get stronger, to grow leaves. The bulk of the seedlings planted during this period survive the winter successfully. A big plus of autumn planting is that at this time, work in the garden is significantly reduced and time can be easily allocated for this event. In addition, with such a transplant, the crop can be obtained already in the next season. If we talk about when you can transplant strawberries in the fall, then it is preferable to do it in September.

How to transplant strawberries in the fall

To obtain maximum results, when planting strawberries, a number of rules and conditions are observed.

Choosing a place for replanting: lighting, soil, predecessors

Garden strawberries are unpretentious to the ground, but for better results loose, slightly acidic soil, which is pre-fertilized, is suitable

Important! For transplant, choose a cloudy and calm day.

Before replanting strawberries in the fall, you should carry out soil cultivation from An important indicator when choosing a site for a new plantation is what crops grew on the site before. It is recommended to plant strawberries after:

It is better to refrain from choosing the sites on which the following were grown:

Rules for transplanting strawberries in the fall

To get the harvest in next year two-year-old seedlings are used for transplantation. How to transplant strawberries in autumn:

1. Choose seedlings with well-developed roots, at least 5 cm, and the presence of 4-5 leaves on the bush.
2. Old bushes do not transfer to a new place.
3. If you use purchased seedlings, it is necessary to disinfect them. To do this, the roots are immersed in hot water (about 50 ° C) for 15 minutes, then soaked in cold water for 10 minutes.
4. To increase the chances of survival, the roots are enveloped with a mixture of clay, manure and water.
5. Immediately after planting, the seedlings must be watered with water at a temperature of at least 15 ° C.
6. After planting, it is applied in the form of straw or
7. The distance between the bushes should be about 25 cm, between the beds about 80 cm.

Did you know? The brighter the berry, the more vitamins and other useful substances it contains.

Care for strawberries after transplanting

From the moment when you can plant strawberries in the fall and how to do it, we figured it out, now let's talk about leaving. The rate of rooting and growth of leaves depends on the subsequent care, and, consequently, the readiness for winter. This is ensured by regular loosening of the soil around

Sweet and fragrant strawberries are loved by both children and adults. The only pity is that the fruiting period of the berry is rather short.

Read also

However, there are strawberries that produce crops several times a year.

This is not a fantasy, but a remontant strawberry, slowly but surely winning the hearts and plots of gardeners.

What is a remontant strawberry?

Reparability means the ability to multiply flowering (and, accordingly, fruiting). For some reason, it is generally accepted that simple, "disposable" strawberries are superior to remontant ones in their taste, which makes the latter a rare guest on personal plots. And, by the way, in vain.

In addition to intensive fruiting, the main advantages include the fact that remontant strawberries do not require complex care and special agricultural technology. Of course, it is not without mistakes - many gardeners care for remontant strawberries in the same way as for a simple garden strawberry.

We will consider all the intricacies of caring for remontant strawberries, starting from planting.

First you need to decide on the type of strawberry.

There are only two of them. Bud-forming strawberries with neutral daylight (ND) and long daylight hours (DSD). The seed bags have these markings, so you can easily choose the type you want. In most cases, the yield is higher for the type of VAT.

Also, you should pay attention to the fruiting of the selected variety. Strawberries can be fruitless continuously (these are mustacheless varieties) and bears fruit twice a year.

Varieties repair strawberries set, they are all also divided into two types - beardless and giving a mustache. Bezusaya has a number of advantages. It is resistant to diseases, not demanding on the landing site, it can be planted even in shaded areas, it grows for a long time in one place, without requiring a transplant.

At the same time, the whiskered strawberry begins to bear fruit the same year it was planted. The choice is, of course, yours.

When to plant repair strawberries

Needed early - late February or early March. It is very convenient to use Petri dishes for this, but every gardener has his own way of getting seedlings.

After the strawberries take root and begin to grow, they should be rearranged in a well-lit place, periodically strengthening the roots with fresh earth.

In addition to seeds, remontant strawberries can be propagated by a mustache, as well as by dividing a bush. Mustache propagation is the easiest way. But seeds are already aerobatics for experienced gardeners. But strawberries propagated by seeds yield a harvest in the first summer.

Strawberry transplant

Repair strawberry - description, photo

Fruiting varieties form fruit buds several times during the growing season, which is the main difference between the fruiting species and the classic one. Usually the fruits ripen in mid-summer, early autumn. As practice shows, the second harvest gives more fruit than the first.

Given its particular fertility, the berry is demanding in terms of care, substrate quality, and watering. Having created all the necessary conditions for growth, development, the bushes can bear fruit for 3-4 years. In this variety, not every bush is able to withstand an enormous load, therefore, often weaker ones die after the formation of fruits.

Interesting! Shrubs that yield double harvest have weaker greenery and less fruit than traditional horticultural crops.

Features of growing remontant strawberries

Translated from French, the term "remontant" means "bloom again, rise again." This variety, after the first collection, begins to form buds for the next. The berry is sensitive to the length of daylight hours. Therefore, there are three photoperiodic types:

1. Have a short day. Includes classic varieties with the ability to harvest once in summer. Fruit buds are laid at the end of summer with a fairly short daylight hours (no more than 12 hours). Fruiting occurs at 14 hours of daylight hours.
2. Long day. Varieties that can form buds in a day of 16-17 hours are included. This is roughly the period from the second half of May to the first half of July. Flowering begins at a 12-hour day length, the harvest ripens at the end of summer.
3. Neutral day. The formation of buds, the flowering period does not depend on the length of the day, therefore it lasts from the beginning of spring to the end of the growing season. This process is repeated every 6 weeks. The southern regions are able to produce 4 crops in the open field.

Important! 25-degree temperature, drought makes pollen sterile, which threatens the lack of collection. Maximum yield from the neutral type can be obtained by cultivating indoors.

Popular varieties of remontant strawberries

All varieties are classified into two types, including their famous varieties.

Small-fruited

They do not create a mustache, they reproduce only by seeds. It bears fruit all season, until the first frost. The most famous varieties:

1. "Ali Baba" - has a spreading bush 15 cm tall, capable of forming many inflorescences. The fruits are elongated, scarlet on the outside, white on the inside, soft forest aroma. The species shows remarkable resistance to diseases, pests, frost. It is a high-yielding species.
2. "Alexandria" is a high-yielding, unpretentious species. Bears fruits weighing 7 grams.
3. "Baron Solemacher" is resistant to attacks of insects and diseases. The fruits have a weight of about 4 grams, a bright scarlet hue, convex blotches. The berries are sweet enough without excess acid.
4. "Forest Fairy Tale" ¬- medium-sized bushes continuously form many inflorescences. It is a high-yielding species. Slightly elongated fruits have a sweet and sour taste, gaining weight of about 5 grams.
5. "Ruyana" - a compact plant gives large juicy berries of a rich scarlet color, expressive smell similar to wild strawberries. Fruits ripen a couple of weeks earlier than other varieties. This species is resistant to drought, frost, diseases, pests. Gives high rates yield.
6. "Rugen" is a dessert variety. It bears fruits of an elongated shape, bright red color, with an unsurpassed taste and aroma. Flowering, ripening occurs earlier than other varieties.

Informative! Small-fruited varieties are often confused with strawberries.

Large-fruited

During the growing season, it yields a crop 2-3 times. They reproduce with the help of a mustache. Fruits can weigh up to 100 grams. The illustrious varieties are:

1. "Queen Elizabeth" - a powerful bushy plant produces berries weighing 50-125 grams. Updated every season, can be used for vertical growing.
2. "Temptation" - a hybrid species retains fruiting from late spring to the first autumn cold weather. The berries have a light flavor of nutmeg, dense juicy pulp. Average weight berries - 30 gr. Suitable for use in decorative gardening.
3. "Dynamite" - an American type of culture bears fruit with white pulp weighing about 20g. During the growing season, forms a lot of whiskers. Shows resistance to pests, various diseases.
4. Evi 2 is another foreign representative. It has a special immunity to dry climates. The berries are quite sweet, juicy, weighing 20g.
5. "Moscow delicacy" - pleases the owners with strong, tall bushes, bringing abundant harvest. The fruits reach a weight of 35 grams, the aftertaste resembles the taste of sweet cherries. It is resistant to frost and disease.
6. "Monterey" - a foreign visitor has strong stems, rather sweet cone-shaped fruits, reaching a weight of 20g. It has a high yield percentage, it is difficult to develop in continental regions.

Advice! When choosing one or another type, it is important to take into account the growing climate, as well as the condition of the soil.

The best varieties of remontant strawberries in terms of yield, endurance

Among the variety, there are still the best famous species:

1. Vima Rima. It is one of the best varieties. Bred by Dutch breeders. The formation of fruits begins in mid-June, lasts until the first autumn cold weather. Differs in good taste, has a fairly soft structure. The bushes produce a large number of young whiskers. The berries are quite large - about 75 g, show good transportability.
2. Elizabeth 2. Is a clone of the Queen Elizabeth species. It is considered the best variety among gardeners. It is famous for its large fruits of bright color weighing 30-100 grams. The first crop may be slightly deformed. Dessert berries do not have a pronounced aroma, have excessive sweetness, special density, which allows the product to be used in any kind of freezing or processing. Productivity is 2-3 times higher than other species. Due to the ability to keep peduncles for the winter, rather early fruiting is noted, somewhere from the second half of May. The berries ripen for a long time: the first harvest is in early June, the peak yield is in mid-June, the next one depends on climatic conditions.
3. Albion. Another representative of the work of breeders, bred in California. Many recognize the best due to the cultural characteristics of several varieties. Bushes of medium height with well-developed greenery. The fruits are large, slightly elongated, very pleasant to the taste. The number of sunny days during the growing season greatly affects the sweetness and aroma of the product. Ripening occurs almost simultaneously - by mid-June, half of the first harvest has time to ripen.
4. Irma. Also the best representative of the variety. Bred by Italian scientists. Bushes are erect, of medium height, with a moderate amount of foliage. Elongated fruit conical shape, weighing from 20 to 50g. Possesses bright taste, even the rainy season does not spoil the taste of the berry.

Important! Regardless of the type of crop, adherence to the rules of agricultural technology, proper watering, and regular feeding with complex fertilizers are required.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds

To grow a culture from seeds, a seedling propagation method is used. Seeds are sown in February or early March. If you sow seeds for seedlings later, then the transfer period to the site will fall at the peak of the summer heat, which will additionally require protection of the seedlings from the scorching sun's rays, careful watering, and spraying. In addition, not all seedlings will be able to take root in hot conditions.

Sowing repair strawberries

Before sowing, prepare a special loose moist soil. The crops are sprinkled with dry soil, covered with polyethylene. Leave in a warm, well-lit place. For the sake of the appearance of sprouts, after two to three weeks the air temperature should be at least 20 degrees.

Care for seedlings of remontant strawberries

After the emergence of seedlings, the shelter is removed from the container, the temperature is lowered or the seedlings are transferred to a cooler room. It is important to maintain the lighting level. If necessary, install additional lighting to avoid stretching the seedlings. Lighting should last at least 10 hours. The room where the seedlings grow should be ventilated daily.

Reclaiming Strawberry Pick

After two months, the first 2-3 leaves are formed at the seedlings. At this stage, it is possible to carry out a pick in separate containers or spacious boxes. It is important to maintain the same landing depth as before the dive.

A couple of weeks before planting seedlings in the beds, you can carry out the hardening procedure. Seedlings should be taken out every day for a certain time in the yard or on the balcony, gradually increasing the duration of the seedlings being in the air. After adapting the seedlings to climatic conditions, you can start planting.

Know! If you did not have time to sow seeds in February-March, it is recommended to grow seedlings in the summer. It is then necessary to transfer in the first decade of September.

Planting repair strawberries

• legumes;
• radish;
• carrot;
• mustard;
• parsley;
• garlic;
• beet.

Territory not suitable for cultivation after:

• cucumbers;
• cabbage;
• a tomato;
• potatoes;
• raspberries.

The territory for the beds should be sunny, leveled, with good drainage system... Preference should be given to sandy loam, loamy soils with a neutral, slightly acidic reaction. Peaty, sod-podzolic soils are categorically not suitable for cultivation.

When to plant repair strawberries

They begin to plant seedlings after the threat of night frosts has passed, approximately in the second half of May, early June. The soil on the site is prepared in advance: they carefully dig up, removing all weeds, add humus, manure or compost, wood ash at the rate of 5 kg per 1 square meter.

20-25 days before planting, 20 g of potassium sulfate, 40 g of superphosphate, or 1 tbsp. spoons of Kaliyphos per 1 square meter.

Planting repair strawberries in spring

You can plant seedlings in two ways:

• carpet - seedlings are placed according to the scheme 20 * 20 cm;
• ordinary - a distance of 20-25 cm is observed between seedlings in a row, 70 cm between beds.

Disembarkation must be carried out in cloudy weather. On the site, holes are made, watered, seedlings are transferred into the holes, keeping an earthen lump. You can place 1-2 seedlings in one hole. The core of the shoot should be just above ground level. The soil around is gently squeezed and watered.

Remember! When burying seedlings, it is important to avoid bending the roots in the hole.

Planting repair strawberries in the fall

When planting seedlings in spring, the first fruiting appears the next season. Therefore, gardeners prefer autumn planting. Seedlings are planted in August or September. Thus, she has time to gain strength before the winter cold, especially since pests, fungal infections are not dangerous. The rules and methods of landing in the fall completely coincide with the rules for landing in the spring.

Growing remontant strawberries

The quality and quantity of fruiting directly depends on the correctness of the care provided.

Spring strawberry care

The basics of growing, looking after fruiting varieties are slightly different from the rules for processing classic horticultural crops. The fruits of these species are famous large size, weighing up to 100 grams. Still, a similar result is available only if you strictly follow simple, but very important rules agricultural technology.

Following the spring planting of the beds, it is recommended to mulch with coniferous needles, straw, peat, sawdust, or cover with dark agrofibre. Thus, moisture in the soil will evaporate longer, watering can be carried out a little less often.
With the onset of spring, yellowed foliage is cut from old bushes. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil. The second feeding is carried out in the second half of May.

The first fruiting occurs in spring. Many gardeners recommend sacrificing these fruits in order to accumulate the maximum collection of delicious berries in the fall. In addition, the spring harvest is very inferior to the usual taste of classic strawberries. Typically, gardeners grow both classic and fruiting varieties. Then, with the onset of summer, they enjoy the fruiting of traditional crops, and the peduncles are removed from the fruiting species, preserving them to form a secondary collection, filling the berries with rich taste properties.

Note! General care consists in regular watering, gentle loosening of the soil, careful timely disposal of weeds, systematic feeding, protection from diseases, all kinds of insects.

How to care for repair strawberries in summer

Following the removal of the first collection, it is necessary to prepare the plant for the second. For this, it is necessary to systematically feed, loosen, water the beds. To increase the secondary flowering, the foliage is carefully trimmed without damaging the apical buds. It is necessary to take into account the presence of varieties that form the ovaries on the rosettes. Foliage is not cut for such species. At the end of summer, the next stage of fruiting begins.

Caring for repairing strawberries in the fall

Often, following the collection of re-fruiting, gardeners have to plant new bushes, because not every plant can withstand such a weighty load. Subject to all the care recommendations, the bush is able to live and bear fruit for three years. It all depends on the correctness of actions, soil quality, climatic conditions.

Top dressing of remontant strawberries

The introduction of nutrients is an important point in acquiring a high yield, prolonging the viability of the bushes. This requires the continuous addition of potash, nitrogen fertilizers. The most needy varieties are considered to be neutral daylight hours. If phosphorus was added before planting, then it can be omitted during the season. The beds are mulched with humus, adding 2 kg of product per 1 sq. M (you can use 5 kg of manure per 1 sq. M).

At the end of May, add a 1.5% urea solution. In mid-June, at the peak of the formation of the second crop peduncles, the plantation is watered with chicken droppings. For this they cook water solution in the proportion of a bucket of droppings per 10 liters of water.
In total, 10-15 dressings per season may be required. Fertilization continues until late autumn, while the root system is formed, otherwise the strawberries will leave for wintering weak, exhausted.

For your information! For fertilization, not only organic matter is used, but also mineral fertilizers such as Kemir, Solution, Crystallin, Lux.

Watering repair strawberries

Watering has a certain technology that takes into account the shallow placement of roots, rapid evaporation of moisture from the leaves. Moisturizing is carried out regularly, approximately twice as much as for a classic berry. During the summer heat, generous fruiting, watering is increased. The best time for moisturizing is considered early morning or evening, use room water.

After planting young bushes for a week, watering is carried out daily, after watering is carried out every 3-4 days. The bushes of the last season are watered from the end of April. During May-June, watering is carried out 3-4 times. From August to September, watering is carried out two to three times a month. The soil should be moistened 2-3 cm deep. The next day, the soil must be loosened. This will allow air to pass through, breaking the dried crust.

Transplanting remontant strawberries

As such, a berry transplant is not required. After all, the bushes are not durable and live for 3-4 years, even with the conditions of perfect supervision. Usually formed daughter rosettes are transplanted.

If, for any reason, it becomes necessary to transplant, it should be remembered that in the fall it must be done no later than 20 days before the first cold weather. If transplanted in the spring, the possibility of early fruiting will disappear. Because of this, it is necessary to transplant before the inflorescences appear. Then the first fruits will appear in the second half of July.

Advice! When the moment is missed, and the inflorescences have already formed, they should be removed. This will enable the plant to use all its efforts to build up a root ball, to adapt to a new place.

Pruning repair strawberries

Pruning remontant strawberries in the fall

At the end of fruiting, the foliage is carefully removed, trying not to injure the apical sinuses, because it is there that the fruit buds are formed for the next season. Harvesting leaves serves to prevent a variety of infections. Only adult strong stems are left for wintering. The procedure is completed by treating the area from diseases and harmful insects.
Mustaches are allowed to be trimmed throughout the season. But this is not necessary. Some gardeners are confident that getting rid of the mustache allows you to monitor planting density. Others, that fruitful rosettes are formed on the growing mustache, so they cannot be cut off. But before winter, it is still worth removing old leaves and mustaches.

Pruning remontant strawberries in spring

If the leaves and whiskers were not removed in the fall, this procedure is done in the spring. After the plant is treated with drugs for pests and diseases. Most gardeners prefer spring pruning.

Reproduction of remontant strawberries

As you already know, the culture can multiply by seeds. seedling method... Reproduction by a mustache or by dividing a bush is also possible.

Reproduction of remontant strawberries with a mustache

Choosing a mustache breeding method, you have to sacrifice the second stage of fruiting. At the stage of the first fruiting, strong healthy bushes are noted, the grown mustache is laid out along specially prepared grooves located next to the beds. The remaining mustache is removed to avoid weakening the mother bush. After the sprouts appear on the mustache, the first rosettes are left. The next mustache is cut off, but the first rosettes cannot be separated from the mother bush.

Remember! While young sprouts are accumulating strength, they are regularly watered, weeded from weeds. 10 days before the transfer of shoots to a new place, you need to separate them from the parent plant. Subsequent planting is carried out according to the standard culture scheme.

Reproduction of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush

This method is used when there is a shortage of planting material. Divide mature bushes at the age of 3-4 years. During this period, numerous shoots have time to form, having a rosette of leaves. They are dug in the spring (autumn), carefully separated, planted in a prepared place.

Repair strawberries in winter

In the fall, watering the berries is reduced, if desired, they perform sanitary pruning, carry out treatment for diseases, pests. After the first autumn cold weather, the breasts are covered with non-woven fabric. In non-severe winters, for the sake of shelter, you can use hay, foliage, sawdust, straw. Outdated bushes that give a poor harvest are dug out before the first snow.

Growing and caring for remontant strawberries on the balcony

Growing strawberries on the balcony is completely real dream... Anyone can enjoy the beautiful berry without having a summer cottage. On the territory of the balcony, the same species are grown as in the summer cottages. When growing remontant varieties on the balcony, the owner gets a huge bonus - the opportunity to enjoy the fragrant berry all year round.

Experts recommend choosing "Queen Elizabeth", "Bolero" for growing balconies. These varieties yield well and the berries are large enough. If you do not want to harvest a year-round harvest, then you can choose early or late varieties. It can be:

• Roxana;
• "Ekaterina 2";
• "Festivalnaya";
• "Beauty of Zagorya";
• "Desnyanka".

Know! There are no special "balcony" varieties! If the seller offers this type of plant, it is pure water deception.

Any container is suitable as a container for growing. You can use special boxes, plastic pots, plastic containers, or generally plastic bags. Experienced gardeners are sure that it is the bags that are the right container, because when using them, the growing conditions are as close to natural as possible.

• black soil (10 units);
• peat (10 units);
• humus (10 units);
• sawdust (3 units);
• sand (1 unit).

Thanks to these components, you get an excellent nutritious soil for growing crops. Saplings are planted in spring or autumn. The planting is carried out not deeply, which acts as a prevention of violation of the formation of new leaves. After planting, the roots of the plant are covered with soil. Then, for better rooting, you can water the seedlings with a solution of heteroauxin. 1 tablet of the drug is diluted in 5 liters of liquid. The soil surface must be mulched. It is necessary to ensure that the soil does not dry out.

Important! For cultivation, you must use fresh soil. The soil after other crops is not suitable. Otherwise, the plant may start to hurt or develop poorly.

To obtain a fertile crop, you will need proper lighting, regular watering, and fertilization. For one bush, at least a three-liter volume of soil must be prepared. After planting, the plant gives time to take root, gain strength. Lighting should be at least 14 hours per day. In cloudy weather, additional lighting will be required (fluorescent lamps, reflectors).

Despite the fact that the culture is very fond of moisture, excessive dampness or stagnant water is contraindicated for it. Watering should be regular, even, and containers equipped with drainage holes. The plant is fed with complex fertilizers twice a month.

Once rooted, the culture will begin to let go of the mustache. If there is no need for reproduction, then the mustache is carefully pinched off. When growing a plant in apartment conditions it is recommended not to leave a mustache at all, then all the forces of the bush will go to rooting, the formation of berries.

Repairing strawberries in the greenhouse growing and care

The procedure for growing a culture under greenhouse conditions is quite laborious, but the reward is getting a fresh product for a whole year, regardless of climatic conditions. When selecting varieties, you should establish what tasks are set before growing strawberries:

1. Using a greenhouse instead of traditional beds, you can plant almost any kind. The main factor is the yield, the presence of immunity from diseases, pests.
2. For the sake of getting an earlier harvest or growing after the onset of cold weather, varieties with special characteristics should be chosen. For such a case, “Clery”, “Kimberly”, “Mashenka” (early varieties) or “Elsanta”, “Vikoda”, “Festivalnaya” (late-ripening species) are suitable.
3. If you wish to receive a collection all year round, remontant varieties are used. Good results are given by "Queen Elizabeth", "Albion", "Source", "Selva". These varieties are well adapted for cultivation in closed ground, respond positively to increased exploitation.

Informative! Those who want to build a business use exactly the option of year-round cultivation. Indeed, in winter, early spring, the cost of the product becomes maximum.

Several growing technologies are available to modern gardeners:

1. Using the primer. This method does not ask for additional investments, but it has a list of disadvantages. Using this method, it is important to carefully monitor the manifestation of the first signs of infection of a plant or soil with diseases and pests. And also isolate the contact of the fruit with moist soil.
2. Using pots. The disadvantage of this method is the inability to receive collection all year round. Pots have a meager volume of soil, which is why it quickly loses its useful properties, and the plants have to be systematically replanted.
3. Using agrofibre or film. It is the most advanced culture breeding method. The beds are covered with a specialized cloth, the seedlings are planted in special holes. When using this method, the yield of any type increases, because a favorable microclimate is formed under the coating.

The quality and quantity of the harvest obtained depends entirely on the quality of the substrate in the beds. Therefore, the soil is prepared in advance. For the sake of the comfort of the seedlings, it is tedious to make the substrate light. A substrate made of whole garden soil, compost, wood ash in equal proportions. You can also mix in peat or coniferous sawdust, about 10% of the total amount of soil.

Remember! Before planting, the soil must be disinfected, a complex of fertilizers is added.

Planting of planting material is carried out according to the already known scheme. If it is necessary to collect the whole year, it is necessary to provide a system for the supply of seedlings. The most suitable version would be dividing the beds into three groups:

• bearing fruit;
• growing up;
• young seedlings.

The key care is to maintain the required moisture level (65-75%), ensure the required level of temperature indicators (about 28 degrees), moderate timely watering.

Renovated strawberries at home hydroponics cultivation and care

The technique involves cultivation without the use of the usual substrate (soil). Artificial soil was created especially for the sake of hydroponics. The technique requires generous, frequent watering with a special solution made based on the natural needs of the plant.

Cultivation takes place on unnatural soils, where the root ball is in a highly aerated water, humid-air, solid environment. Moreover, such a medium is porous, moisture and air-consuming.

Important! Hydroponics allows, without special financial and physical costs, to get effective berry picking without losing taste product.

For cultivation according to the method, fruiting species with a high percentage of yield are suitable. For example: "Mount Everest", "Fresco", "Yellow Miracle", "" Generous "," Olvia "," Gigantela "," Elvira ". These varieties have shown excellent performance when grown by the method.

Using the technique, you can grow in several ways:

1. Drip irrigation system. It consists in planting the sprouts in a special substrate, further supplying the nutrient solution using droppers. As a substrate, it is permissible to use peat mixtures, coconut, mineral wool.
2. Nutrient bed system N.F.T. This implies the supply of nutrient solution using a constant circulation of liquid through a plastic box. The seedlings are placed in containers, the bottom of which is slightly raised above the nutrient layer.
3. By the way of aquatic culture. Implies growing with an aquatic environment. The seedlings are placed on foam plastic floating in the nutrient solution. It has some disadvantages: lack of control over the intake of important components, possible problems with excess moisture.
4. Aeroponics. This method involves placing the seedlings not in a solution, but in a fog. The fog generator acts as an aerator. With this method, the plant gets more nutrients.
5. Periodic flooding system. Great for growing a large number of bushes. It is a well-established stationary installation.
6. By the way of deep sea culture. When using this method, the bushes have close contact with the liquid. Not the best for growing strawberries suitable option, as there are problems with the growth of plants.

Know! These methods are considered the most effective and popular, but there are many more ways to grow crops in hydroponics.

The complex process of technology consists of several stages:

• choice of a variety of culture;
• the use of artificial soil;
• preparation of a specialized nutrient solution, close in characteristics to the requirements of the plant;
• assembly of the installation for transporting the nutrient solution directly to the plants.
• The use of this technology also makes it possible to grow seedlings from seeds.

Features of growing and caring for ampelous remontant strawberries

Ampel crops are famous for their ability to grow both in beds and on suspended containers. The culture is considered a climbing strawberry, which forms rather large berries. The ampelous variety calmly reacts to a lack of lighting, which makes it suitable for breeding at home on balconies. Distinctive feature is the simultaneous fruiting of the bush and the mustache of the plant. At home, you can harvest even in December.

This species has a certain specificity of landing. A special substrate is prepared for breeding. Gravel, crushed stone or pebbles 0.1-0.15 m thick are placed on the bottom layer of the containers. A mixture of manure, compost, peat is poured on top. After filling the container, the substrate is well moistened. The sprouts are planted one at a time in a hole, carefully pressed with a lump of soil.

Freshly planted shoots need abundant watering (about 3 times a day). Saplings that have lived for two weeks (like adult bushes) are watered every three days. During the dry season, watering is increased. For healthy growth, a bountiful harvest, regular feeding is carried out with complex mineral fertilizers... At the end of fruiting, the foliage is cut off from the bushes, this is how the plant rejuvenates.

Interesting! The ampelous variety, in addition to abundant collection, exhibits a decorative function. Thanks to growing in hanging containers, it serves as an excellent decoration for the room.

Repaired strawberries Albion care and cultivation

The Albion variety is the most popular among gardeners. Along with other representatives of the genus, it gives a good harvest, the fruits are large, beautifully shaped, quite sweet and juicy.

A distinctive feature is considered resistance to diseases, pests, climatic conditions. It tolerates frost well, does not tolerate hot weather at all. At elevated temperatures, there is a lack of fruiting, with excessive moisture the berries become tasteless. Requires a sufficient amount of sunlight. In the northern territory it gives twice less yield than in the southern regions.

Given the duration of fruiting (until the first frost), it is recommended to grow indoors. The soil for cultivation should be well fertilized with humus. Disease resistance frees from additional processing.
Planting is best done in the fall. Thanks to the first wintering, the opportunity to take root, the yield will exceed all expectations. The soil under the bushes is mulched with straw or sawdust. For the ripening period of berries, complex fertilizers can be applied.

Remember! The species prefers having free space... The distance between the holes should be 30cm, between the rows - 50cm.

Strawberry remontant care and cultivation in Siberia

The main problems of growing crops in Siberia are freezing in winter, damage to young seedlings by spring frosts. Breeders help to cope with this problem by creating frost-resistant species.
Requirements for soil, growing areas are similar to warmer regions. The main point is the availability of sunlight, which is sufficient in cold regions during the summer season. It is important to place the beds away from buildings and trees.

An additional problem of growing in Siberia is the high snow cover. On cold winter nights, it protects the plant from frost, but in the spring thaw it gives too much moisture, sometimes even washing out the beds.

Specially for the northern territories, a variety with a fast growing season was bred. Indeed, in a short period of time, the plant must have time to organize itself, give a collection, lay fruit buds for the next season. Such varieties require more serious care.

For the territory of Siberia, the following types have been derived:

1. "Berdskaya". It has a sweet and sour taste. The northern regions are germinated under the film.
2. "Russian Daryonka". Sufficiently productive species, adapted to sudden changes in temperature conditions. Shows resistance to pests, fungal infections.
3. "Amulet". Has the ability to give up to 2 kg of yield per bush. Practically resistant to diseases, it survives winter frosts well. The berries have a rich sweet taste.
4. "Early Omsk". The species was bred specifically for Siberia. Small sweet fruits, perfect for making jam and compotes.
5. "Chamomile". Produces large, sweet fruits that can tolerate transportation well.

For your information! In areas with harsh climatic conditions, it is recommended to plant several varieties with different periods of fruiting. If spring frosts injure early varieties, the fruits will bear bushes with later fruiting.

Pests, diseases of remontant strawberries

Quite often, the culture infects aphids. A special solution is used to destroy the harmful insect. Several heads of garlic are poured with cold water (3l), left to infuse for a week. Then the bushes are sprayed with this solution. This method is recognized as the most effective, environmentally friendly method of pest control.

The next dangerous pest is the strawberry mite. When fighting the pest, insecticides are used. However, their use is allowed only after the end of fruiting. Especially dangerous diseases are:

• powdery mildew - affects foliage, which leads to curling, the manifestation of a brown tint. The affected bushes must be removed, the remaining ones are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
• brown spot - leads to the coloring of the foliage in a brown shade, with the progression of the disease, the foliage completely falls off. In order to prevent the disease in the spring (or after collection), the culture is treated with copper chloride;
• gray rot is a fungus that infects bushes in damp weather. For treatment, treatment with copper chloride is used, and the affected fruits are removed.

Possible problems when growing remontant strawberries

The main prevention of disease is the selection of resistant varieties. The cause of the spread of a fungal infection can be thickened plantings, excess moisture.

Even the most correct care does not provide complete protection against damage to plants by pests and various diseases. Diseases lead the bushes to exhaustion, pests sometimes destroy even an unripe crop. It is these factors that make gardeners take all sorts of measures to preserve the harvest, destroy insects and pests.