It so happened that the greenhouse was collected in late autumn, so I didn't have time to grow anything in it. Spring has come, and with it the need to prepare the greenhouse for planting. How to do this, I did not have the slightest idea, so I had to seek help from familiar gardeners and study the literature on the topic.

As a result, we got the following list. spring works in the greenhouse:

• cleaning and repair;
• disinfection of the greenhouse and soil (if it is not replaced);
• increasing soil fertility.

Spring cleaning and renovation

With cleaning, everything is clear - remove the remnants of last year's crops and weeds... Everything that was a temporary support (pegs, twine for tying) will also have to be thrown away or disinfected.

Film greenhouses

If the film has overwintered on the frame, you need to carefully examine it for integrity. Repair found damage, if possible, or replace the film (partially or completely).

In order for the plants to receive enough light, it is advisable to wash the film coating from the outside and from the inside. Internal walls, the ceiling and frame need to be disinfected (how and how this can be done, read below). Some remove the film from the frame for the winter; in this case, they are processed separately, and then a clean film is attached to a clean frame.

Those who are planning to equip a greenhouse with a film coating will probably come in handy detailed story for making it yourself:

Greenhouses coated with polycarbonate and glass

These materials are stronger than film, but they can get damaged during the winter. If any are found, we eliminate it, if not, we can start washing and disinfecting.

Disinfection of the greenhouse - how do we process it?

So we got to the most difficult (in my opinion) topic. To be honest, my head is spinning: which processing method should I choose? I would like to protect plants as much as possible from possible diseases and pests, but not to the detriment of product quality. How to find the middle ground?

Sulfur checkers
For 1 m3 of premises, 50 g of sulfur are needed if there were few pests last year. And if there is a lot, then the dose is increased to 150 g. In our village, sulfur bombs are the most popular means of disinfecting greenhouses, which seems a little strange to me.

According to the reviews of experienced greenhouse owners, checkers do not save from late blight, bacteriosis and false powdery mildew... Confused by the fact that the sulfur dioxide formed during the combustion of sulfur bombs, in huge amount will fall into the soil. In the greenhouse, it is non-spillable, so it will end up in greens and vegetables.

Slaked lime solution
For 10 liters of water, you need 3 kg of slaked lime and 500 g. The resulting solution is used to treat the frame and surfaces of the ceiling and walls.

The use of biological products
In my opinion, this is the only correct direction in crop production. For example, the drug "" will not only save plants from fungal diseases, but also suppress the growth of pathogenic microflora in the future.

To process the greenhouse, you will need a working solution: 100 g of the drug per 10 liters of water. Attention! The water must be free of chlorine! For 30 m² of greenhouse surface, 10 liters of working solution will be required. After 2 weeks, the treatment will need to be repeated.

Improving soil fertility

We usually grow the same crops in the greenhouse from year to year, so the soil here requires more attention than in ordinary garden beds. What are the options for her recovery, enrichment nutrients offered?

Replacing the top layer of soil
Experts recommend replacing every year upper layer greenhouse soil, removing 10-20 cm. Instead, add purchased soil for seedlings or prepare a soil mixture yourself.

For greenhouse beds, mix der new land, river sand, and (1: 1: 3: 5). To neutralize the acidic reaction of peat, add 3 kg of lime to 1 m³ of the mixture. Perhaps this is the most time consuming and costly method.

Sowing siderates
Nobody argues about the benefits of siderates, so you can safely sow on greenhouse beds rye, oats, vetch, mustard, phacelia, watercress.

In order not to waste precious time, during the fruiting period of crops growing in the greenhouse, green manures can be sown in the aisles, and in the fall the harvested ridges can be sown with winter rye or oats.

The use of EM drugs
They will help protect plants from diseases and pests, get a richer and, importantly, environmentally friendly harvest. At the same time, they will populate the soil with beneficial microorganisms, making it healthy and improving its structure.

Biofuel ridges
They can be done both outdoors and in a greenhouse. What types of warm beds are, how to make them correctly, what and when to plant, is described in detail in. If you are interested in the topic of biofuel beds, be sure to read.

Approximately the following list of spring work in the greenhouse turned out in the end. The task for me is new, unusual, so there is not enough confidence. There is a lot of information around, and often the recommendations given in one article contradict the opinion of gardeners who have had their own greenhouse for more than one year.

So I'm worried - have I taken everything into account? It would be very interesting to find out from summer residents, for whom work in a greenhouse is not a novelty - how do you prepare it for spring plantings?

The article is posted in sections:

We put any greenhouse or greenhouse in order to create in it in the future, in these "houses" the necessary conditions for those crops that we are going to grow there. But what is good for plants is also very good for their pests and diseases. If you cultivate monocultures in a greenhouse for a long time, then this seriously increases the concentration dangerous pests in the ground. These are, as a rule, insects, and besides them, various pathogenic fungi, as well as harmful microbes. That is why any greenhouses where the soil is constantly in a closed state must be disinfected - the soil, as well as the greenhouse structure itself and all the equipment that you have there. This should be done every year. Polycarbonate greenhouses are usually not disinfected. The opinion of experts is to hold all such events in the fall (here it is written in more detail about this). It is best to do such decontamination as soon as you harvest. But, we all have our own things to do, and perhaps these very things did not allow you to take care of your greenhouse in the fall. Then you will definitely need to prepare the greenhouse for planting in the spring. This is usually done in February, or a little later, in March, when a prolonged thaw sets in.

How to prepare a greenhouse for planting in spring? What should be done and how?

I think it is clear that such preparation is far from quick. Usually it consists of several successive stages, which are designed in combination to expel from your greenhouse all (well, almost all) insects harmful to your plants, as well as pathogens of any diseases. This is what should be your final result, based on the results of these preparatory activities... Let's figure out where to start disinfecting the greenhouse, what to do next, and how to complete our efforts.

Removing plant residues from the greenhouse

This is the first step you will need to take when preparing your greenhouse for spring planting. Many of these residues include only tops or last year's fruits. But, of course, this is not all. It is imperative to remove all the roots from the greenhouse, as well as those weeds that are present there. Due to the density of planting that is usually found in most greenhouses and due to the limited space, some harmful organisms necessarily lives in a greenhouse, even if there were no outbreaks of any diseases in it at all. It is not necessary to leave leftovers and garters in the greenhouse, the same twine or trellises for the same reason. Always processing the greenhouse in spring must be followed by thorough burning of all hazardous waste. This garbage can consist of last year's plants, the same garter material, and other unnecessary things. If you have any difficulties with burning all this, then here it is written how you can significantly speed up this process.

Someone advises using greenhouse tops for compost. Of course, it can be suitable for this, but not always. At the same time, these conditions must be met:

for the entire previous year, there were no serious outbreaks of any diseases in your greenhouse, and the number of pests did not increase;

You should be able to let the compost simply digest all pathogens. This process takes a long time, and it usually takes at least 4 years;

this compost, which in the end you will still succeed, you will not use in the future to fertilize the crop from which you just got it;

If all these conditions are quite feasible for you, then you can use all the tops from the greenhouse to obtain compost.

We process structures

The design of a greenhouse implies not only its frame, but also the covering material itself, in most cases today, it is polycarbonate. When processing all these constituent parts, you need to not damage them (especially the polycarbonate itself), and at the same time complete the main task, that is, destroy everything that is harmful that may be present on constituent parts Your greenhouse.

As for polycarbonate, they just wash it for a start with plain soapy water, or something similar, where there are no abrasives. After that, the surface of the polycarbonate is already rinsed clean water... This can be limited if everything was fine in the greenhouse in the previous year. If there were any problems in terms of pests or dangerous diseases, then it is imperative that with such treatment it is necessary to use drugs that will destroy the pathogen. To do this, similar drugs are simply added to the same soapy water.

IMPORTANT! In spring, polycarbonate in the greenhouse should only be washed using SOFT sponges or brushes, as well as rags. Polycarbonate, of course, is convenient as a covering material for greenhouses, but with such processing it can be very easily scratched. You don't even need a hard brush for this, scratches can be left with a hard burlap. So immediately forget about metal brushes or nets for cleaning this transparent covering material. They will only spoil your polycarbonate.

Before planting, the greenhouse will need to be not only mechanically cleaned, but also disinfected. This applies to shelving (if you have one), inventory, containers and other components of your greenhouse. To disinfect all these components, you can simply use boiling water (of course, it is not suitable for plastic) and some useful substances... Well suited for this is the same copper sulfate (we use it as a solution), also iron sulfate, and besides them formalin and bleach. For shelving and wooden props, the treatment of limestone is ideal, which must be well settled for this.

We disinfect the soil in the greenhouse

This sanitary stage in preparing the greenhouse in spring is one of the most difficult and troublesome. If your greenhouse is small and, accordingly, there is not much soil mixture, then you can do all this with the help of boiling water. Just a few buckets good boiling water(that is, the water should just boil) are able to destroy most pathogens of various diseases in a small greenhouse.

If you live in any southern region, then this method will suit you: the soil will need to be shed, the covering material of the greenhouse should be washed, all the vents' doors closed in it, and all the cracks should be caulked - a week will pass and the greenhouse can be “printed”. But, many do not live in the south and can carry out such a procedure only in June or in July, when there is active fruiting. Then how can we neutralize the soil in our greenhouses? It is quite difficult to do this, it is easier to simply replace it. You can even not all, but necessarily 5-8 centimeters of the top layer. You can simply spread the same layer over your garden, or transfer this greenhouse soil with manure. It will take 3 or 4 years, and you will be able to use this seemingly waste land again in your greenhouse. The soil in the greenhouse itself, where you removed this top layer, is usually covered with some kind of organic fertilizer, or simply dug up. You should also know that only fully "ripe" compost is introduced into greenhouses in spring. Manure should be the same.

To disinfect the soil, you can also use "chemistry". With the same solution copper sulfate(or iron), as well as various special preparations, which are intended for this. If the soil in your greenhouse is acidic, you can use bleach. But, nevertheless, it is best to use "chemistry" for these purposes in the fall. In the spring, however, such events will most likely not promote the growth of plants in your greenhouse.

We carry out fumigation. How and with what?

This procedure will help you to treat the greenhouse well, while your costs will be very small. There are some insects that can be "defeated" by an ordinary smoky fire. After that, the greenhouse will need to be tightly closed for the whole night. Fumigation of the same annual, greenhouses with polycarbonate cover should be carried out more thoroughly. Here you can no longer do without lumpy sulfur or sulfur checkers.

Before you start the process of decontaminating your greenhouse with sulfur, it will need to be prepared for this. First, of course, all the garbage is removed, then the soil is watered, and the greenhouse is carefully caulked. Only after carrying out these procedures will it be possible to process the greenhouse. For this, sulfur in her pure form, or ready-made checkers are laid out on suitable metal sheets. If you use lump sulfur, be sure to add a little kerosene to it.

ATTENTION! The gas that will be produced during combustion, such a checker, is extremely dangerous. That is why in a fumigated greenhouse you should be present at a minimum and be sure to take care of your protection. The greenhouse after processing should be closed for 4 or 5 days. Then it can be opened and must be thoroughly ventilated.

The preparation of the greenhouse will go faster over time. Do you do it in spring or autumn. The main thing here is to work out all these skills and choose the most convenient processing methods for you. Do not forget to do this annually, because when the greenhouse is clean and the material for sowing in it is of high quality, it will definitely give you a good harvest in the end.

Here is another useful video, where you will be told about the preparation of the greenhouse for the new season. All these activities can be carried out both in autumn and spring. The main thing is to completely disinfect the greenhouse.

Few people know that cucumber is actually a native of the tropics. Therefore, he is afraid of cold weather, and only in the southern regions does it grow by open ground without any particular problem. And for a different climate, sometimes the only way out is good greenhouse... But the very first landings are usually planned when the snow has not yet melted there. And it's not easy to start the usual work in it - you need to prepare a polycarbonate greenhouse for planting in the spring, and it depends on it how healthy, strong and pleasing your harvest will be. And we will help you figure out all the intricacies!

Washing and cleaning every crevice

The first step in deciding how to prepare your greenhouse for planting in the spring is to start with simple cleaning. Throw away old twines and garters, and wash irrigation hoses and water barrels well. All vegetation that remained for the winter will need to be removed completely. It won't good fertilizer- on the contrary, pathogens of diseases most of all love to winter on such organic matter, which is dangerous for future seedlings.

You need to wash the greenhouse correctly:

1. Wash the film and glass with ordinary soapy water.
2. Clean PVC and metal frame elements hot water with vinegar.
3. Cellular polycarbonate will best clean and disinfect a weak, barely pink solution of potassium permanganate.

After washing, open all the vents and doors, and dry the greenhouse well.

Spring disinfection

Let's start with the fact that in any greenhouse soil there are pathogenic microorganisms and pests, and it will not be possible to completely clear the ground of them. So, all these living creatures also have their own cycle of activity, and just in the spring their "awakening from sleep" falls. You don't want the newly planted seedlings to be eaten, do you? Therefore, at this time of the year, an important procedure is carried out - disinfection, unless you did this in the fall.

Preparation for disinfection

Front chemical treatment it is necessary to carry out a mechanical one: remove the moss from the base of the greenhouse and other places, and "cure" all these surfaces with a 5% solution ferrous sulfate... This is the only way you can eliminate all spores. If you did not remove plant residues in the fall, do it now, and be sure to disinfect it then. Take the discarded tops off the site, because usually all pathogens remain in it.

Take the issue of disinfection seriously: fungal spores are able to maintain their vital activity even in severe frosts.

Disinfection with a sulfur checker

We advise you to use sulfur checker, which, during combustion, forms a gas that penetrates everywhere. It cleans well even those places that cannot be reached with any brush, which is especially valuable for a greenhouse. And all insects, the malicious spider mite, mold and even slugs are afraid of sulfur. During disinfection, wear rubber gloves and a face mask, and close all the cracks in the structure itself. Keep it in smoke for 3-5 days, then open and ventilate thoroughly.

It is possible to carry out disinfection with a sulfur checker already at a temperature of 14-16 ° C. Everything gardening Tools, shovels and watering cans should be kept indoors during processing.

Do not use a sulfur stick if your greenhouse is on metal frame... The gas that will be released reduces the service life of such structures, but such processing is absolutely safe for wood.

Disinfection with bleach

The second option for safe disinfection is spraying with a solution of bleach. They need to process both the soil and the entire structure from the inside, even ropes and belts drip irrigation... By the way, lime cleans even heavily contaminated soil.

To do this, prepare a solution of bleach, stirring 400 g in 10 liters of water, leave to infuse for a day (so that later its splashes do not cause burns), and brush all the wooden parts with a brush. Pour the solution into the cracks especially generously - everything is microscopic there and hides. Then take the liquid for spraying the soil into the spray bottle, and coat the wooden parts of the greenhouse with sediment.

Disinfection with biological products

Modern biological products are even safer, although less effective. Their main purpose is to destroy pathogens and increase soil fertility. It is not necessary to air the greenhouse especially after biological products, and the seedlings can already be planted in just a few days. However, if in the previous season you suffered from diseases and pests, then be sure to update the topsoil.

But disinfection is undesirable, because applied chemical substances can negatively affect the entire crop. If it so happened that you did not do all this in the fall, then try to disinfect everything as early as possible, so that there is a certain period of time before planting seedlings. That is why it is better to disinfect indoor ground in the fall, and in the spring - only to wash the structure from accumulated dust.

Search and repair of damage

So, the first thing after winter we start renovation work... We check the integrity of the greenhouse, replace the broken areas, and, if necessary, level the walls and arches after the snow.

It is important not only to inspect the greenhouse, but to check its strength: all connections, all supports and guides. If you find deformed, rotten, or corroded parts, be sure to replace them.

Unfortunately, there are situations like this: in early spring people come to the dacha and see their beautiful greenhouse broken under the snow! But the manufacturer stated that it is powerful, strong, stable ... But it doesn't matter, almost any design can be corrected:

Soil replacement and fertilization

In the spring, they replace the soil with a new one, and, if desired, arrange the so-called warm beds.

Most of all harmful bacteria accumulate in the upper layer of the earth. Therefore, it is better to completely remove the top 5-7 cm, so in a simple way by 90% improving the soil. And instead of the removed layer, sprinkle humus and mineral fertilizers. And yes, do not throw away the top layer - it will be quite healthy outdoors, especially in flower beds or beds with a different crop.

If it's time to completely change the soil this spring, do it responsibly. Try to fill the new earth with organic matter to make it "alive". Here is one of best recipes: we take four parts of loamy soil, three parts of manure or humus and three parts of peat. Another: six parts of loamy soil and four parts of humus. These are universal recipes, but there is also one that is most suitable for each individual vegetable.

1. After preparing the beds, be sure to check the acidity of the soil. For tomatoes, the soil should be pH neutral, which can be achieved by mixing 60% peat, 20% sand and 20% compost. And put sawdust or straw at the bottom of the garden bed to additionally warm the tomato roots that are sensitive to the cold.
2. For cucumbers and vegetables that are close on demand, prepare the following soil: 6 parts of peat, 2 parts of humus and 2 parts of woody soil. If desired, make a bedding of rotted sawdust here as well.
3. For berries, make the soil on lightweight soil: 6 parts of turf and 2 parts of sawdust.

What matters is where exactly you get the land from. It is desirable that this is not a nearby state farm or vegetable garden, where a priori there are already disease-causing disputes. Only fresh peat can be called absolutely sterile, but its reuse is no longer safe.

When replacing soil, be guided by what problems you faced in the past season. After all, there are also regions in Russia where there are almost no contaminated soils - pests have simply not been brought there yet. And therefore, if the degree of spread of pathogenic microorganisms and insects was small before, and there was no phytophthora, then you can remove only 10 cm of the surface layer. V otherwise- change everything. But believe me, this process is quite laborious.

After you form the beds from the new soil, add a glass of ash and any mineral fertilizer to each of them. By the way, you don't have to throw away the soil that you pulled out of the greenhouse - just disinfect it: put it in a stack, sprinkling it with dry bleach layer by layer. And so leave it for three years. Recipe: 250 g of lime per 1 m2 in a 20 cm layer. This soil can then be used if it has never had blackleg or phytophthora pathogens in it. You can also plant in it something that does not get sick from these misfortunes.

And finally, the finishing touch is fertilization.

If you rotate cultivation wisely vegetable crops every year, then the soil can not be changed, it is enough just to disinfect.

In the spring, peat is also added to the greenhouse. This is a special kind of soil, rich in humus and collected from swamps. When storing peat, alternate its layers with manure and lime. And bring it into the greenhouse soil with the following calculation: 20-25 kg per 1 m 2 if the soil is light, and up to 15 kg if it is heavy.

Acceleration of heating of greenhouse soil

The spring sun heats up the air quickly, but the soil takes much longer. But for sowing seeds or planting seedlings, the earth temperature is needed at least 10-15 ° C - do you really have to wait for April? Not at all - there are a lot of tricks on how to warm up the beds faster, and as a result, get the desired harvest much earlier.

So, watering with hot water not only warms up the earth well, but also activates many beneficial microorganisms and bacteria. Better to do it twice, then the earth temperature quickly reaches 15 ° C. And if your greenhouse also has electricity, install a floor fan. So you get rid of cold air, which, as you know, always accumulates from below.

Any black covering material will also help warm up the soil.

Oxygenation of the soil

Aim for the prepared soil to be loose, porous and oxygenated.

That is why, at this stage, we add compost to the greenhouse soil. These are food waste rotted in a year or two and products that need to be put in a separate box on the site. The result is a high organic content, which is especially good for growing greens and vegetables.

When using sawdust, try not to take fresh ones - they acidify the soil. Better old, rotted. If there are none, then put the fresh ones in some container, scald with boiling water and fill overnight with water, about 10 liters for three buckets of sawdust. The next day, fertilize the sawdust with a solution fresh mullein, three liters per bucket of water. And after two days, this soil baking powder will be completely ready.

To additionally feed the greenhouse soil for future plantings, many gardeners sow siderates: watercress and mustard. These plants thrive at low temperatures and produce a lot of greenery, and within a week or two after them, seedlings can be planted.

Preparing the beds for planting seedlings

In early spring, many greenhouse owners set up warm beds so that they can plant earlier. Ideally suited for this purpose horse dung, as emitting the most heat, in second place is cow. It's good if you have stocked up on this raw material since the fall, because in spring, through the melted snow, it will be difficult to deliver this good.

Warm beds should be done like this:

• Step 1. Water the manure with hot water.
• Step 2. Digging trenches about half a meter deep.
• Step 3. We put this biofuel on the bottom with the outer layers down, and heated up - higher.
• Step 4. Lightly ram the manure and cover with foil.
• Step 5. We are now waiting 3-4 days for the manure to settle. The final layer should be at least 40 cm thick.
• Step 6. Powder with lime to stop the growth of fungi, and sprinkle with earth.
• Step 7. After a week, the temperature inside the manure will be 30 ° C, when you can plant seedlings.

They also do this: they bring manure in the second half of summer, spread it in a thin layer, dry it, and then stack it tightly. Cover the top with straw and roofing felt so as not to get wet. In the spring, it is more convenient to use such raw materials, it is only necessary to additionally feed with nitrogen - when shrinking, this element partially evaporates.

When placed in the beds, manure, dried since summer, must be additionally heated by sprinkling with hot water, but fresh manure, just brought in, is not needed, it is already hot inside due to active decomposition processes. It is advisable to even lay such a heap around the yard for about a week, so that it starts to "burn", which will be noticeable by a light steam.

Applying all these simple "tricks" in practice, you will open the greenhouse season in March, and in April you will enjoy the first vitamin vegetables!

Spring is the most difficult time for gardeners, because before planting plants in the ground, it is necessary to do numerous preparatory work: grow seedlings, disinfect the soil, treat the greenhouse.

First of all, during the spring preparation of the greenhouse for planting vegetables, it is necessary to remove all the remnants of tops, weeds, last year's leaves and plant roots. This plant debris must be burned. In this way, most of the pathogens will be destroyed. It is also necessary to disinfect the polycarbonate greenhouse.

Processing a polycarbonate greenhouse before planting vegetables

Another method spring processing greenhouses - sulfur fumigation. A mixture of sulfur and kerosene is ignited and the smoke disinfects the greenhouse surfaces. This procedure must be carried out carefully, observing safety rules.

A cheaper and simpler option is to spray a polycarbonate greenhouse with a solution of bleach at the rate of 500 g of lime per bucket of water. The resulting solution is infused for about four hours. Various biological products have a good prophylactic effect. They effectively fight diseases and increase soil fertility.

Basics of spring soil preparation

Greenhouse soil preparation - main stage growing healthy and strong plants. Competent choice of soil when forming beds, protecting soil from pests and diseases, application effective measures to prevent depletion of land in the greenhouse - the main factors affecting the yield of vegetable crops. In greenhouse conditions, plants are more demanding on the condition of the soil, therefore, preparing the soil before planting plants should be given Special attention... It must be remembered that the ideal state of the soil in your specific conditions must be achieved experimentally, using various methods for caring for the soil in the greenhouse. So you can find exactly your option and provide yourself with an environmentally friendly high-quality harvest of vegetables grown by your own hands.

Experienced gardeners know that to achieve high rate it is recommended to replace the topsoil in the greenhouse at the beginning of the season. This can significantly reduce the likelihood of contracting diseases and harmful insects, improve soil fertility, as well as increase the quality of fruits of vegetable crops.

Plants extract nutrients from the ground, and the soil is gradually depleted, so it is so necessary to replenish stocks mineral substances... Replacing the land in the greenhouse is a laborious process, but the result will please you.

The first layer of soil placed in the greenhouse is straw, hay, leaves, which, in combination with manure, form a kind of pillow and will serve as the basis for your greenhouse. Sod land mixed with peat is laid on top. The moisture content of peat should be no more than 50%.

If you do not have the opportunity to replace the soil, it is recommended to water the soil with melt water in early spring, saturating it with useful substances and thereby prolonging its operation time. However, such cold treatment does not destroy all microbes, therefore additional soil disinfection is required. This procedure can be done in several ways:

• To disinfect the soil, use the treatment with a solution of copper sulfate (in the ratio of 1 tablespoon to a bucket of water);
• The easiest way is to scald the soil in the greenhouse with boiling water, this will get rid of most harmful microorganisms;
• More effective method- disinfection of the earth using a car steam generator;
• Sometimes they warm up the soil, water the soil abundantly and turn on the heating to the maximum, after which they close the doors and vents;
• If the greenhouse is not heated, on the first sunny day we also water the soil abundantly and leave the room closed;
• You can treat greenhouse soil with Planriz, Fitosporin-M, purchased in a specialized store. Such preparations do not disturb the soil microflora.

It is recommended to fertilize the soil in a polycarbonate greenhouse. Humic acids contribute to the development of soil organisms and contain all the substances necessary for a greenhouse land. You can feed the soil with Phoenix and Flora-S preparations.

If you are a follower organic fertilizers, pay attention to the enrichment of the soil with green manure, plants that form a dense green mass in a short period of time. They are sown before vegetables are planted, mowed and embedded in the soil, significantly improving its structure. These green fertilizers include cereals, sunflowers and legumes.

Preparatory measures should be carried out at the end of the dormant period. Having figured out all the intricacies of prevention for the greenhouse and the soil, the hardworking gardener will spend necessary processing appropriate methods and in gratitude for the labors will enjoy the harvest of organic vegetables!

Preparing the greenhouse for the new season in spring is one of the most important procedures for the future harvest. Numerous plants are grown in greenhouses that will not mature in time in our area without additional help.

Unfortunately, polycarbonate greenhouses are great for more than just growing vegetables or fruits. In these places, harmful bacteria, for example, late blight or spider mites... After each season, the greenhouse must be put in order and prepared for a new one.

Preparing a greenhouse for planting new seedlings is a rather long process. Greenhouse preparation activities begin with the first spring warming - in late March or early April.

Preparing the ground is not the best fast process, it consists of several stages:

1. Checking the design itself.
2. Cleaning.
3. Disinfection of the greenhouse room and soil.
4. Fertilization and formation of beds.
5. Warming up the soil before planting.

Checking structures, cleaning

First, you need to physically clean the greenhouse:

The first step is to check the greenhouse itself. If it is made of wood, check the beams and treat them with a special wood protective solution. If made of metal, make sure there is no corrosion, renew the paint;

Important! Be sure to fix any breakdowns in the structure - align what is bent, close the holes, if any. A broken greenhouse will not be able to fulfill its main functions - to create the right conditions for growing plants.

Remove plant residues, old garters and twines, debris;

Hoses, barrels and other equipment must be thoroughly washed and dried, put into a secure storage;

By the way, all this can be done not only in spring, but also in autumn, after the last harvest. A clean and tidy greenhouse will handle the winter better and there will be less work in the spring.

Diagnostics and disinfection of soil

Some gardeners think that low temperatures in winter they themselves serve as disinfection, but this is not so - organisms destructive for plants simply fall asleep for the winter, and with the first warming they begin to actively multiply. It is very difficult to grow anything in such soil; it needs disinfection.

There are several ways to disinfect:

Very important! It is strictly forbidden to be in the greenhouse during fumigation. The person who lays out and sets fire to the sulfur must definitely wear a protective suit, a gas mask and gloves.

Soil preparation

If the greenhouse has been in use for a long time, then ideal option it will be easy to remove about 5 centimeters of the topsoil. In place of the earth, manure is laid in a thick layer - one of the better means for fertilizing the earth. This process is quite laborious, but effective.

Important! The land that was removed in the greenhouse does not have to be thrown away. If you throw it on other beds, in the open air, it will serve perfectly there.

Now the soil must be saturated with useful substances, that is, fertilizers. Which ones they will be depends on what kind of plants they plan to plant. Fertilizers are of two types:

Organic fertilizers make the soil rich in nutrients and create beneficial microorganisms good conditions for life. These substances also help warm up the soil. The most popular ones are:

• Manure;
• Bird droppings;
• Tree bark;
• River silt;
• Humus;

• Mineral fertilizers are chemicals that saturate the soil with a specific element, such as nitrogen or potassium. In any store, whole complexes of these substances are sold, which contain all the components necessary for good quality land.

Do not forget! The main thing in working with mineral fertilizers- do not overdo it, too a large number of substances can simply destroy the seedlings.

Warming up the soil

After the soil is put in order, it is necessary to prepare the soil for sowing. The basic procedure for this is warming up. It is done as follows: small, shallow trenches are dug across the beds, and then poured into them hot water... Such manipulations raise the soil temperature to 10-15 degrees.

Another option for warming up, especially if the days are already quite sunny, is to cover the beds with a dark and very dense film.

Oxygen saturation

Experienced gardeners know that the best soil- loose and porous. Such a land is saturated big amount oxygen.

To saturate the earth with it, the following components are added to it:

• compost - rotted residues of organic waste;
• leaves, sawdust and bark;
• straw cutting;

Another simple and effective way to "revive" the earth is to plant mustard or watercress in it. These plants grow quickly and well - in a couple of weeks after them, the earth is dug up and seedlings can be planted in it.

The complex of these measures will create ideal conditions in the greenhouse. A well-kept greenhouse gives amazing results - the plants take root well, grow quickly and give excellent fruits.