Is it possible to do without a primer. Simple ways to prepare a primer with your own hands

Wall primer is a special construction composition, which is used for the preparatory processing of the base. Thanks to this, it is possible to ensure maximum adhesion of the base and the material that is used as a coating.

Many who first encounter repair do not know what the walls are primed for and whether the walls need to be primed in one case or another, therefore they often ignore this important stage finishing works... But in vain! If the surface prepared for gluing wallpaper is not treated with a primer, it will contain small roughness that can only be seen at close range. It is these defects that cause a violation of the smooth surface of the wallpaper and can spoil appearance premises. However, the primer can serve not only to achieve perfect alignment, but also for other purposes, on which the type and composition of the material used depends.


When choosing a primer mix, the first step is to determine what the primer is for, i.e. for what tasks it will be used. Among the varieties of this material the following can be distinguished:

  1. A strengthening option that acts as a glue for microparticles and is used to obtain a perfectly flat surface.
  2. Penetrating soil is indispensable for filling micropores.

To get the maximum quality result it is necessary to prime all treated surfaces and only after that paint, putty and other work should be carried out.

Priming has many advantages:

  • allows you to get a high-quality and smooth surface;
  • gives strength and strength to the surface;
  • easier to apply paint or other substance;
  • wall defects are hidden;
  • glossy surfaces shine even more.

A well-primed wall will also neutralize paint odors and prevent future mold growth.

Primer selection rules

So, we figured out why the walls should be primed. Now is the time to choose the right mix that will ensure the durability and quality of your renovation and finishing work. Careful attention should be paid to the type of surface, otherwise all future work, regardless of the quality of the primer, will be in vain and will not lead to a positive result.

The primer should be chosen depending on what tasks it will perform:

  • surface preparation;
  • alignment;
  • improved grip;
  • increase or decrease in moisture absorption.

It is also necessary to take into account the location of the surface to be treated. Each room is characterized by a special degree of humidity, temperature and other indicators. They should be taken into account when choosing a certain type of soil. Each type of this building mixture has its own unique composition, thanks to which you can choose the most optimal option.

Features of priming

Although this process cannot be called very complicated, many do not know how to properly prime the walls. During the preparation of the base, it is necessary to fully comply with all the rules and technologies of the primer that make it possible to achieve maximum efficiency from this process.

The priming of the walls under the wallpaper is done only when all preliminary work and there are no complaints about the surface quality. Before priming the walls, you should carry out the following work:

  • plastering the wall using cement-sand mortar;
  • leveling the surface using various types of putty.

Priming of the surface can be carried out only after the wall is completely smooth and dry, otherwise you can spoil everything obtained during the preparatory work results.

Before applying the primer, the roller is dipped into the solution and rolled along the ribbed part of the pallet to remove excess liquid. The fact is that, in terms of its density, the mixture is not far from the water, so the excess can flow down the wall. V hard-to-reach places a large brush can be used instead of a roller.


The primer can be applied both with a roller and with a brush, the first option being most often used for priming the main walls, and the second for corners, areas behind pipes and radiators, as well as other hard-to-reach places.

Priming before putty: is it necessary?

Most of the people who started finishing the premises ask themselves the question: is it necessary to prime the walls before puttingty? The answer to this question is not always straightforward, but it is still better to do it. The primer significantly improves the adhesion of materials and provides protection against excess moisture.

If the surface is pre-treated with a primer mixture, the result will last much longer. Of course, you can skip priming, but in this case, you should not count on the durability of the repair.

Primer application rules

Primer application is a real art that should be approached responsibly. This process consists of the following stages:

  1. Before applying the primer, you need to clean the surface from dirt, dust and other debris that can spoil the results of the work.
  2. The primer mix is ​​poured into a plastic tray. The roller is moistened in the mixture, rolled out to remove excess, and only after that the solution is applied to the wall. This procedure allows you to get rid of excess liquid and prevent it from flowing down the wall.
  3. Many, not knowing how to prime the walls correctly, believe that the thicker the layer, the better. However, this is fundamentally wrong, the mixture must be applied in a thin layer so that there is no accumulation.
  4. Corners that the roller cannot reach can be brushed.
  5. After all work is completed, the surface should dry. The time is from 5 to 24 hours - usually the manufacturer indicates it on the package.
  6. When the primer is completely dry, puttying or other finishing work can be carried out.

Dilution of the primer mixture

Despite the fact that the primer is not the most expensive building component of the repair, a considerable amount of it will be needed to finish one room. That is why it is necessary to dilute the soil with water, but this should be done carefully and carefully.

The amount of water used for this depends on the manufacturer and is usually indicated on the package. The generally accepted proportion is one part water to two parts primer. The resulting mixing solution should be used on the same day. After some time, it will deteriorate and lose its properties. It is better not to dilute the mixture applied to the plaster too much, since cement-sand mortars absorb moisture well.

So, we figured out why a primer is needed and how to prime the walls. Finally, we present several useful tips, which will help to consolidate the results obtained and complete finishing work at the highest level:

  1. If, during the finishing process, the primer gets on clothes or any other surface, then it is necessary to wash it off with a cloth soaked in water.
  2. Primer rollers, brushes, buckets and other tools should be rinsed out immediately.
  3. It is not necessary to dilute the entire mixture at once - in most cases, priming the walls requires only a small part of the total material.

The desire to make repairs on their own often appears suddenly. Sometimes it is so great that the novice builder is not afraid of either the lack of experience or the dirt. If you take on the repair with your own hands, then you need to appreciate your work and do everything thoroughly. This article will tell you about how to make a primer with your own hands.

It is necessary to prime the work surfaces, without this good repair can not be done. The material of the article will help to make sure that the initial, deep priming is done simply, with little cost - you just need to follow the technology.

Looking at the label in the store, seeing what the primer consists of, it becomes clear that this is a rather uncomplicated and uncomplicated substance to manufacture. But it is irreplaceable in the construction business. The main task of the primer is to form an adhesive film on the surface to be treated. Simply put, the mixture makes the surface more tacky for decorative materials to be applied.

The paint or putty adheres better to the primed surface, because the primer fills its micropores and irregularities. Because of this, the area and the strength of adhesion of finishing materials to the surface greatly increase. The soil also performs other functions:

  • Securing the base. The composition impregnates the loose prepared surface, prevents it from shedding, cracking after applying decorative coatings;
  • Leveling the absorbency of the material. The prepared surface may have an uneven thickness and uniformity of application. The mixture tightly covers the entire surface, creates a uniform adhesive film over the entire surface;
  • Protective and decorative function. Some types of primers are designed to protect the surface from the effects of atmospheric agents, solar radiation... Wood treated with a special primer shows the grain structure and looks more beautiful.

Priming at home is really simple. And how to replace a primer from an expensive hardware store, it will become clear below.

Finishing work without preliminary priming will lead to delamination of the applied material. All the work will have to be redone again. Padding work surface- dust-free work, which will avoid the appearance of defects.

Types of primers

Building mixtures differ in composition, purpose for different materials exposed to the surface. Types of primers used in household repairs:

  • Adhesive (concrete contact). Serves for better adhesion to the applied materials. Such a primer is applied to walls prepared for painting or wallpapering.

  • Penetrating primers serve as a bonding element between the layers of the leveling surfaces and to strengthen the surface structure. Such a primer can be used for porous, loose, well-absorbing surfaces. They process putty, plaster, drywall sheets. Mixture deep penetration with its properties, it provides penetration into the porous structure and complete impregnation of the material.

  • Hydrophobic. When the surface needs to be protected from excessive moisture exposure, it is coated with a hydrophobic mixture. The glue and resins that are included in its composition prevent moisture from penetrating into the material.

  • Antiseptic. To protect a wall made of concrete or wood from the development of fungus, this composition will be simply irreplaceable. Together with the anti-fungal effect, such a do-it-yourself wall primer gives good adhesion.

Primers are made from acrylic, chalk, cement, various adhesives... Penetrating compounds are equally well suited for bare concrete, and for putty, and for plaster.

Homemade soil versus store

What can be used to replace a store primer? The primer can not only be applied to the wall yourself, but you can also make it. As a rule, the composition of primers differs slightly from different manufacturers. On construction market you can buy the components listed in the composition on the label of the finished primer. From these components, you can quickly make a material that, in terms of quality and properties, will not be inferior to the store counterpart.

Why do the primer yourself? It's cheaper. There is no need to overpay for packaging, the logo of a large company is on it. Instead of a store primer, you'll get a homemade primer that's just as good. And someone may simply be pleased with the very manufacture of an important building mixture with their own hands.

If you make yourself a primer for walls, then it is suitable for treating mineral surfaces. But homemade wood mixes may not be suitable.

Making a primer

Homemade primer components are available in every construction market. Such a composition is done quickly, it is immediately ready to work. The most important thing in the manufacturing process is the correct proportions. Each recipe below will help you figure out how to make your own primer.

Deep Penetration Composition

You can make a deep penetration primer as follows:

  1. Pour glue into the container, add water to the glue and stir until smooth.
  2. Add cement or chalk powder to the suspension.
  3. Strain the resulting mixture through a gauze bandage.

PVA glue in the primer will protect the surface from moisture. It has excellent adhesive properties.

In the video: PVA glue primer.

Firming

The primer is made as follows:

  1. Bring water to a boil and pour the soap crushed with a grater into it.
  2. Reduce heat and add glue and copper sulfate to the saucepan.
  3. Keep the mixture on fire for 30 minutes and stir.
  4. Strain the mixture through a gauze bandage.

The strengthening mixture will not only strengthen the structure concrete wall, but also protects against the appearance and growth of black mold.

Wood mixture

Preparation method:

  1. Pour alum with 3 liters of boiling water.
  2. Dilute the glue with the remaining water.
  3. Put water with glue on the fire and add soap, drying oil and water with alum to it.
  4. Mix thoroughly, add chalk and stir again.

Penetrating primers have strengthening properties, while antifungal primers are adhesive. Therefore, if necessary, you can use a primer for tasks not intended for it.

Wood priming

The wood must be primed before it is painted or varnished. The primer for wood is made on an alkyd, acrylic, shellac, glue and drying oil base. Before applying varnish, the wood surface is cleaned of traces of dirt, grease or fuel oil. Clean the wood with fine sandpaper and then prime. Follow these guidelines:

  • After applying the first coat of primer, the wood must be sanded to smooth out the fibers.
  • Each layer of primer should dry for at least an hour, apply 2 or 3 coats in total.
  • The acrylic composition is suitable for opening with water-dispersed varnish.
  • The solvent mixture is intended for subsequent coating with polyurethane-based varnish.

For resinous woods, use a special aluminum primer. It penetrates deeper into the fibers.

Wall priming

The composition should be applied to the walls after all initial work. Before applying the primer, it is recommended to moisten the walls with impregnation, which removes fine dust and dirt residues. Mold and remnants of old wallpaper must be removed from the surface.

The choice of primer for painting will depend on the composition of the paint. For water-based paint acrylic composition is perfect. Important rules work performance:

  • The mixture must be free of lumps. It is better to remove large lumps immediately, and small ones need to be stirred with a mixer.
  • For application, you can use a brush, roller or wide brush.
  • The number of layers depends on the porosity and absorbency of the wall. The first coat can be applied with a penetrating primer.
  • Wallpaper glue can be added to the wallpaper primer.
  • The composition should be applied with quick, wide strokes.
  • Let the last layer dry for 3-4 hours.

After applying the primer, the wall is ready for the final stage repair. The primer for the walls with your own hands was made successfully. From such a wall, putty and paint will no longer fall in pieces, and new wallpaper will not go in bubbles. Such repairs can be considered successful and of high quality.

It is very simple to make a primer for walls with your own hands. The skills that were acquired during the repair will come in handy more than once in the future. All the difficulties and troubles of repair will remain in the past.

Finishing any concrete base starts with cleaning, preparing and surface treatment. A primer for concrete (primer) is necessarily used for both external and internal work: before pouring the screed in the room, when filling the walls of the house and much more. Thanks to the primer layer, the applied concrete solution adheres better to the surface and does not deteriorate longer.

In addition, a concrete primer for outdoor and indoor use has many other functions.

Properties of primers

Despite its strength, concrete has the following "weak" sides, which can be compensated for with a primer:

  • The required level of adhesion (adhesion concrete mortar with a surface). This is especially true for perfectly smooth substrates, on which it is most difficult to lay not only cement-sand mixtures, but also paint, wallpaper, linoleum and other coatings.
  • Protection against excessive moisture in the substrate. The fact is that concrete is a porous material that absorbs moisture very strongly, which has a detrimental effect on the base, accumulating and expanding in its capillaries. If the surface is coated with a primer, it will act as a kind of waterproof barrier to prevent blockages.
  • Most mixtures contain antiseptic substances that prevent the formation of mold and mildew.
  • Primers for concrete for painting or plastering allow the coating fluids to be absorbed evenly over the entire surface to be treated.

Of course, without a concrete primer, your house will not fall apart, but if you want to concrete pavement lasted longer, then the primers will be simply irreplaceable. To choose them correctly, you need to decide on the types of such mixtures.

Classification of primers according to the main component

Today, primer compositions are most often found on sale, based on: polyurethane, acrylic, natural components, polyvinyl acetate, epoxy and other components. Let's consider the most popular ones.

Polystyrene (polyurethane) primers

Polyurethane primers for concrete are used very rarely to treat the surfaces of living quarters, due to their high toxicity. Solvents included in such liquids are recommended to be used only for finishing facades or industrial premises.

Polyurethane concrete floor primer is considered to be the most resistant to chemical and weather conditions, and it also gives the surface high strength. This makes it the optimal concrete coating component for outdoor use.

Acrylic primers

Acrylic-based mixes are more suitable for interior work, as they are environmentally friendly and do not exude a pungent chemical odor. Such components can be combined with any finishing materials and have good absorbency. In addition, acrylic compounds dry no more than 3-4 hours. If you need a primer for aerated concrete, then you should choose this particular composition. However, for the exterior walls of the house, it is better not to use such primers, since on outdoors such a protective layer will dry out too quickly.

Water based primers

Such liquids are absolutely harmless to human health, so they can be safely used in poorly ventilated rooms and for children. The main advantage of water-based primers is the ability to apply to dry surfaces. In addition, when working with such a primer, there is no need to use protective equipment, since it does not smell. Solutions of this type are cheaper than others.

Organic primers

Compositions based on natural components penetrate well into the structure of the treated concrete surface. Such mixtures can be used at low and sub-zero temperatures... However, organic primers have the shortest lifespan. This fragility is due to the fact that they evaporate rather quickly.

You should not use this type of primer indoors, as it has a pungent odor.

PVA and epoxy primers

Polyvinyl acetate formulations dry the fastest (no more than 30 minutes), so it is recommended to use them if you are pressed for time. To improve the adhesive properties, after applying such a primer, it is better to cover the surface with an additional layer of PVA glue.

Epoxy primer for concrete is made on the basis of resins and is often used in surface preparation for self-leveling floors. Epoxy increases the durability of concrete.

Classification of primers according to the quality of the base

According to the type of penetration into the bases, two groups of primers are distinguished: deep penetration and adhesive.

Deep penetration primers

Deep penetration primers are able to impregnate concrete slab by 5-7 cm, so they are most suitable for concrete with deep pores. Once in them, the primer clogs the voids, forming a durable and strong film on the surface. Due to their properties, deep penetration primers provide high adhesion, which is achieved thanks to the latex particles included in the mixture. Therefore, such building mixtures become a good base for lime-gypsum, gypsum and lime-cement plaster.

Deep penetration mixtures may include:

  • plasticizers;
  • polymer additives;
  • antiseptics;
  • quartz;
  • acrylic and latex.

Also, a penetrating primer is used for the reconstruction of screeds and walls, which previously (before the primers of this type appeared on the market) could not be repaired.

Healthy! It is better to apply deep penetration impregnations in several layers, the greater the thickness of such a primer, the stronger the concrete structure becomes.

Adhesive primers

Adhesive primers roughen the smooth surface with the silica sand included in the primer. This significantly increases the adhesive properties of the surface to be treated. The adhesive primer is suitable for gypsum, polymer and cement-sand putty mixtures, as well as for wall decoration with planed wood, tiles, gypsum plasterboards and gypsum fiber boards.

If the walls, floor and ceiling were previously covered with putty or paint, then it is recommended to use adhesives for such surfaces.

In addition, when choosing a concrete impregnation, it is necessary to take into account the manufacturer of the composition.

The best brands of primers

Construction markets offer big choice impregnating primers at a variety of prices. In order not to overpay and choose the most high-quality and durable composition, pay attention to the following products:

  • Ceresit CT 17 is a universal impregnation that can penetrate even the smallest pores concrete base... Does not block the processes of steam and gas exchange, due to which the base "breathes". Thanks to the coloring pigment Ceresit is easy to apply. This composition is produced in two types: frost-resistant and summer. It costs about 450 rubles for 10 liters.

  • Varnish is a polyurethane-based impregnating primer. Reliably protects concrete from the formation of mold and mildew. Thanks to antiseptic additives, it is optimal for bathrooms, saunas and loggias. The mixture costs about 500 rudders per canister.

  • Knauf Tiefengrud is a versatile water-repellent primer designed to prepare the substrate before tiling, painting and wallpapering. It has high penetrating properties, so this composition is recommended for use on super hygroscopic surfaces. The cost of such a primer is about 630 rubles per 10 kg.

  • Knauf Betonokontakt is a polymer-based quartz sand dispersion well suited for poorly absorbent surfaces. This brand of primer is used when internal works and for preparing walls and ceilings for finishing plaster stucco... However, such a composition is quite expensive, from 3,100 rubles per 20 kg.

In custody

Regardless of the primer chosen, it must be thoroughly cleaned before application. concrete surface, wash it with water and wait until the base is dry. Primers are available ready-made or require independent mixing. All information must be indicated on the packaging.

Often, car owners save on materials for painting the body, thereby violating the technology of painting cars. Are there any consequences from such savings? Why do these types of car repairs flourish?

Without a primer - stupid, but "economically". Let's take a deep look at this matter.

Of course, few people want to overpay, even if the quality of car repair depends on it. In an accident, most drivers stop appreciating their car, especially if it is not the first time that the accident has happened. They are not looking for the most the best masters who repair cars with high quality, and amateurs, whose services are as cheap as possible.

However, the economy takes by the throat and forces the ordinary driver to delve into the technology of painting. After this action, the thought dawns on him that it is possible to paint the car without primer and save 15-20% of funds on this. Not all masters go to this trick, because they know how it ends. Of course, you can paint a car without a primer, but this option is accepted if the car is being prepared for sale.

If you paint a car without a primer, the paint will start flaking in six months, or even earlier. Similar paint jobs are ordered by car dealers. And if we take into account that 40% of cars in the secondary market are sold precisely from the hands of dealers, then it immediately becomes clear why low-quality paintwork flourishes.

On a note

No one can determine whether there is a primer under the paint or at least a primer-putty. And even with "normal painting" the car will shine and shine like new. Alas, the secondary market buyer takes a pig in a poke.

You can paint a car without a primer if you send it on its last journey. If you still want to ride it, then you should do everything as it tells you. And the more expensive they are, the longer they will last on your car. Low-quality materials last for 3-4 years, while medium-priced and expensive materials last for 7-10 years.

Every car owner must value and respect his transport, as well as keep it in good condition, so that the putty does not fall off on the unevenness of city roads, injuring passers-by, and paint does not fly off. A car is not only a means of transportation, but also a part of the image. Keep an eye on him as well as your favorite clothes.

What is the function of the primer?

As already mentioned, the primer provides reliable adhesion of the paint to the metal. It acts as an intermediate layer, so to speak, connecting link... But this definition is valid only in general terms, because there are different kinds primers with certain properties.

The main types of soil:

  • filling;
  • acid;
  • epoxy.

There are also primers that combine different properties. They are called universal. Therefore, if you do not know what kind of soil you need to cover the car before painting, then choose a universal one. Acid and epoxy primers are special.

The filling primer contains mass particles that form a porous layer with high adhesion on the body. This layer fills in all the small defects left after grinding (washing). The filling primer also lends itself to sanding, but the risk is so low that it is not visible to the naked eye.

The stability of everything depends on how much the filling soil will adhere to the metal. paintwork... The better the soil, the better the paint will hold. You should not save on a primer if the car is made for yourself. By and large, you shouldn't do this, even when the car is being prepared for sale, because it is dishonorable to slip a pig on a person who gives you a considerable amount of money.

Acidic primers are not an alternative to filling. The acids they contain react with the metal to form a sealed oxide coating. This coverage has anti-corrosion properties. If the body is cleaned to metal, then acid soil treatment will be very useful.

Epoxy primers form an impermeable layer on the surface. They preserve the underlying layers and at the same time have excellent adhesion. They can be applied both on metal and on primer or putty. Epoxy primers can be used to isolate materials and separate layers.

Do I need a primer when painting a putty part?

In order to save money, some craftsmen try to paint completely putty parts without primer. But the savings are scanty, while the quality of the painting suffers. The fact is that it is unlikely that it will be possible to wash the putty so that the risk does not appear after painting. Usually, a developing layer is also applied to bring the grinding to perfection.

The pore size of filling primers is much smaller than that of automotive fillers. Accordingly, the primer is washed out much better. In addition, it fills in all surface defects of the putty itself. Therefore, it is imperative to prime the putty.

If your car is painted without a primer

Cars with native paintwork are more expensive. And this is understandable, because the materials in this case were used correctly. However, this does not mean that parts painted in the garage will necessarily peel off. There is simply such a possibility.

On a note

In general, it is better not to buy cars, the quality of the paintwork of which is suspicious. It is extremely important to ring the entire body with a thickness gauge and determine which parts were painted and which were not. If the owner claims that the car did not fight, did not paint, then it is doubly important to check this fact.

The primer layer is up to 50% of the thickness of the paintwork, provided that there is no putty underneath. If the thickness gauge in some places shows too thin a layer, then this is a reason to doubt the observance of the painting technology. However, if such a car has already been bought and the paint has begun to go off, and no soil is found under it, then there is only one way out - a complete repainting!