How to choose a cylinder for door locks. Selecting and installing the lock cylinder

This article was written for people whose financial capabilities are limited and do not allow to call a master to replace the lock, its core or larva, or who simply do not want to trust a stranger to work with a door lock.

Earlier, in the nineties, it became popular to install additional door in front of the entrance, for greater security from intruders. The doors were very diverse, made from a sheet of steel two or three millimeters and had barn locks. But in the process of evolution, doors and locks have been improved, and now there are a huge number of their types for any wealth and need.

All types, of course, we will not consider, but will focus on the most popular and massive due to its cost - the so-called "Chinese" doors. With careful handling, Chinese doors serve for quite a long time, but some of their elements still deteriorate as they are used.

There are many reasons for replacing the lock core. It happens that, due to the strong wear of the core mechanism, the key is poorly inserted, it happens on the contrary, it is very difficult to get the key from the lock, or the owner of the apartment simply lost the keys and is afraid for the safety of things in the apartment. In such cases, it is not at all necessary to change the entire lock; it is quite possible to replace the core - its separate part. Replacing the lock core is quite enough, while you will save a lot on the lock, and the work of replacing it is very simple.

Typically, the cores of locks of all types and sizes are sold at construction markets and hardware stores. The abundance of sizes is striking, so you need to choose the one you need according to the sample taken from the Chinese door. The seller or manager will accurately measure the distance from the end of the core to the pivot pawl and select the required analog. On the spot with the seller, it is appropriate to ask whether you are purchasing a durable model, because now there are a lot of manufacturers like mushrooms, but there are few quality ones.

Let's take a look at the whole process in order: do it yourself replacing the core of the lock on the door

To carry out the work, we need tools - a Phillips screwdriver (bit number PH2), hands and 20 minutes of free time. Yes, you heard right, we only need a screwdriver and that's it. In rare exceptions, one more bit is needed - a slot with a length of 3 millimeters. But this is only when the Chinese installed the usual mounting screws, and not the Phillips head.

So, replacing the core of a lock or a core in a Chinese door begins with the presence of someone else in the apartment besides you, because, having disassembled the lock and taking out the core, you will go to the market, and leave open apartment unattended is impossible. If you close the door, then opening it from the outside will be problematic, without having anything square at hand to move the latch / latch on the door handle.

Gathering our thoughts, dropping fear, we sit down next to the problematic lock and study the number of screws that will have to be unscrewed. In the case of typical Chinese doors, these are two screws with inside locks, holding the rear dummy panel with the handle in the assembled position.
Unscrew the two screws. We are not afraid if you have to turn it for a long time, because they are long and go through the entire door, fastening the door handles from the outside and from the inside like a sandwich. Having unscrewed two screws, set them aside, and with careful, staggering movements remove the inner doorknob on the bar, holding the outer one, because it is no longer fixed and will fall. A square pin (square) is inserted into the door handles, which we also take out and put aside.

Next, we look at the place where the key is inserted. We find a protective cup on the larva or the core of the lock from the outside, and in some cases, inside, if the keys are inserted into the lock from both sides. We unscrew the screws that secured the protective cups. Usually two to four screws are installed. Having unscrewed them, we put them aside.

After completing these procedures, we see that the core of the lock has almost been removed. The only thing that keeps her on seat- This is one screw on the end plate of the door. We unscrew it and try get the core of the castle... In cases where remove the core of the lock fails, we insert the key into it and make about one eighth of a turn towards the opening of the lock. The core can then be removed easily and effortlessly. This is not wear and tear of the core, just another kind of protection of the lock from being knocked out of the core with a hammer.

Having removed the faulty larva, we go to the market or to the store to buy the core of the castle. Try not to close the door, put a screwdriver in the doorway so that it is not blocked by a draft. Note the larva or door lock core supplied with five keys. Be sure to consult with the seller or manager whether you are buying a quality product, and just in case, agree on the possibility of a return if it does not fit in size.

After you bought the core, the replacement of the core of the lock occurs in the reverse order.

We take one of the keys, insert it into a new lock core and make a full turn of the key. If the pawl does not fit into the grooved groove, then turn the key until the pawl of the core coincides with the cylinder body.
Next, pay attention to the hole for the fastening screw on the core, and insert it into the lock so that the hole in the end of the door and the hole in the core coincide, that is, they stand on the same level. We take the screw from the end and tighten it, securing the core in the lock. It is important not to overtighten the landing with the screw, as excess stress leads to jamming of the larva.

Having tightened the end screw, we fasten the door handles on both sides of the lock, again without overtightening them with the screws too much. Any extra force on the screws will hinder the rotation of the core axis, and as a result, the wrench will become difficult to rotate.
Having collected these parts of the lock together, take the square pin from the door handles and insert it back into the handle. We insert the assembled unit into the square hole of the lock so that the bar from the lock latch (a small latch rotating at a full turn under the lever handle, which is responsible for opening / closing one rectangular bolt) sits in its seat.

Next, put the outer door handle, take the screws of our "sandwich" and tighten them, hitting the threaded holes on the back of the outer handle. Again, no extra pressure is needed in the threads. Having collected the entire lock on the door, we take the keys and try to open / close the lock mechanism several times. If the lock works with force, then one of the screws must be loosened by a quarter of a turn.
In conclusion of the article, I would like to wish you fewer problems with locks, keys and good mood!

One of the most popular, demanded, reliable and constantly developing systems of locking mechanisms is cylinder. She was born a little over a hundred years ago.

This system is convenient in operation, does not require the application of super-efforts when opening the lock, and in case of loss of the key, it is enough to replace only (the larva), without touching the entire locking mechanism. Another undoubted advantage of cylinder-type locks is that all cylinders are combined with locks different manufacturers... If you need to replace a larva that meets all quality standards, you need to understand which cylinder is better. It is about how to choose the really best cylinder that we will talk about in this article.

What a cunning "beast" top hat?

First, let's try to figure out what a cylinder is. This is a special device with which the crossbars are opened - the force of the key turned in the keyhole is transmitted to the internal mechanism that provides movement shut-off valves... In addition, it is in the cylinder that all the secrecy of the lock is hidden.

The incredible accuracy and peculiarity of the structure of the cylinder allows only the “native” key supplied with the product to open the lock (most often there are from three to five “native” keys).

Cylinders are available in two of the most popular shades to match locks and doors of any color:

  • nickel plated;
  • brass.

Depending on the type of locking mechanism, cylinders are of two systems:

  • key-key (a key is used to close or open the door from the outside and from the inside);
  • key-wrapping (from the outside, the lock is opened and closed with a key, and from the inside with a rotary handle).

Trying to understand which cylinder is better, you should realize that no matter how reliable the mechanism is, it needs the additional protection that is provided.

How to buy the perfect cylinder

There are many types of cylinders, distributed according to the level of secrecy and reliability, resistance to force. The main parameters that you first need to pay attention to:

  • ease of use;
  • durability and wear resistance;
  • reliability.

The extent to which the lock is wear-resistant directly depends on the quality of the workmanship of the internal components of the product, as well as the materials from which they are made. Be sure to take into account the lubricant used in the device.

If we add here the quality of assembly of units and the entire device as a whole, then we can talk about the reliability of the mechanism. The higher the reliability and wear resistance of the cylinder, the lower the likelihood that at some point it may refuse to function or will be opened with a master key.

There is no reception against scrap?

The reliability of the cylinder also depends on how effectively it can withstand forceful hacking options:

  • drilling;
  • knocking out;
  • breaking;
  • pulling out, etc.

Today there are many developments to counter any of the above options. First of all, they relate to the raw materials from which they are made - for example, it can be hardened steel or other hard alloys undergoing hardening. Almost no drill takes such materials.

Separately, we can recall the Mauer cylinders (Mayer), made according to the special technology of the "red line", when when you try to break the mechanism, only the front part breaks off, and the cylinder itself remains inaccessible to burglars, but at the same time continues to function reliably when using the native key.

Almost all models of cylinders of the Mottura trademark (Mottura), in turn, are equipped with a special system of protection against knocking out, and therefore they effectively resist any method of force action, except for drilling.

Most cylinder manufacturers offer consumers to purchase additional ones, which will significantly increase the security of the mechanism and, accordingly, the safety of the room.

Therefore, when determining which cylinder is better, do not forget about the overlays, which are distributed, depending on the mounting option, into two types:

  • mortise;
  • waybills.

The first type of overlays is mounted on a lock. The products of the company are considered to be one of the most reliable. It is virtually impossible to tear these models from door leaf, and therefore their protective properties are incredibly high.

The overlay protection is mounted on the outer door leaf. Although, they are often considered to be more decorative, since they provide protection against drilling only until they are torn off. The most popular are the products of the companies Kale (Kale), Ritko (Ritko) and others.

Intelligent cylinder protection

One of the options for opening cylinders is an intelligent method, the essence of which is the selection of keys and master keys. Modern models cylinders quite effectively resist this method, but not all. For example, cheap devices wear out rather quickly, making them easy to open with any key.

In general, the burglary resistance of cylinders is divided into several classes and depends on the time it takes an attacker to open. The most simple, weakly protected cylinders open in two to three minutes. A cracker needs at least half an hour to open expensive complex mechanisms. However, in most cases, the robbers simply do not have that much time. Therefore, if you really want to understand which cylinder is better, ask the seller for the accompanying product documentation. It must indicate the burglar resistance class of the mechanism.

To avoid opening the cylinder with a master key, manufacturers equip the internal secret part with false slots, into which the master key falls. Small wells are quite common complex design, into which it is extremely difficult to insert a master key.

Reliable cylinders must effectively withstand the so-called automatic picks, operating on the principle of vibration, leading to the opening of the locking elements. In theory, even the most expensive and reliable model of a cylinder can be opened in this way, however, as practice shows, in fact, it only acts on not expensive models, and even then not always.

One of the most common methods of opening locks is "bumping", when a pre-prepared model of the key is inserted into the keyhole, which is beaten with all its might with a hammer or other heavy tool. As a result of such a blow, the pins and pins diverge, and easily turn. Modern expensive models of locking mechanisms can easily resist this method of hacking due to several factors:

  1. A small keyhole for which it is difficult to find a workpiece.
  2. Durable internals and assemblies capable of withstanding increased power load provided upon impact.

There are many models designed to withstand bumping, but in general, many brands of cylinders can withstand this way hacking. For example, these are products of the following manufacturers:

  • EVVA;
  • Mul-t-lock;
  • Cisa et al.

The above are the most popular hacking methods, but there are others. In practice, they are not actually used, since they have long become ineffective. Such methods include the use of acid, which, according to some, corrodes the internal filling of the mechanism. However, on the metal used in locks, under the influence of acid, a hydrochloric layer forms, which prevents the acid from exerting further Negative influence... In addition, the internal parts of cylinders and locks today are most often made of hardened steel or cupronickel, which are actually not afraid of the influence of acid.

A big secret

When trying to determine which cylinder is better, be sure to clarify what its secrecy is. This concept it is often used to voice the number of possible combinations of a cylinder that its pins create. According to manufacturers, the most reliable models cannot have less than a thousand combinations, and in elite, expensive cylinders, the number of combinations reaches several million.

In fact, everything is much more complicated and many characteristics should be invested in the concept of secrecy, including:

  • wear resistance;
  • resistance to force;
  • resistance to intellectual influence;
  • number of cylinder combinations;
  • the likelihood of opening the lock with similar "native" keys, etc.

In addition to the above characteristics, the secrecy of the cylinder has direct influence the quality of its workmanship, which has a positive effect on its durability and reliability.

Why are cylinders for the people?

The easiest way to determine which is better is to look at its cost. So, even a schoolchild can easily open the cheapest models in a matter of minutes by reading or watching the relevant literature or videos on the Internet. Quite often, the cheapest cylinders are sold even without packaging, indicating the manufacturer. Such products not only cannot increase the protective properties of the door, but also fail very quickly, which leads to the need to buy a new product and, accordingly, additional money spending.

The purchase of a cheap cylinder is only justified if it is purchased as a temporary constipation. For example, when conducting renovation works in a newly acquired apartment, which in the future involve the acquisition of a new door with a full, reliable lock.

For the front door to an apartment or house, it is recommended to purchase mid-price cylinders. Models from this group of products are significantly superior to cheap products in terms of reliability and ability to withstand different options hacking. Even an experienced specialist will have to spend a lot of time opening the lock, drilling or knocking out, making a lot of noise that will attract neighbors or just people passing by. And even then, such opening options are not always effective, since hardened steel is used for the production of cylinders, which prevents the product from breaking. Taking into account the use of modern reliable materials, cylinders of the middle price category operate reliably for many years, do not break and do not require replacement. Models in this price category are installed in at least 70% of doors.

The third category of cylinders, the most expensive, guarantees the highest level of protection and safety. Only hacking geniuses can open them, of which there are not so many in the whole world. Cylinders of this type able to withstand forceful and intelligent hacking. Particularly durable materials, innovative developments used in the production of locks of this type, can even completely block the device at the slightest attempt at breaking, be it drilling or picking picks. Naturally, the cost of such cylinders, used in conjunction with specially designed ones, is incredibly high. It is recommended to install them only if you are sure of the overall reliability of the door, which can neither be broken down nor cut off from the hinges. Otherwise, spending on expensive cylinders is not entirely justified and it is better to limit yourself to a locking mechanism of the middle price category.

We hope that now you can understand which cylinder is better and get a really reliable and durable mechanism. When buying a product, be sure to take into account all the above parameters and characteristics of the cylinders. Do not be guided only by the promises of the seller and the popularity of the trade mark that produces the mechanisms.

Timely replacement of the larva will help prevent damage to the lock. It is this mechanism that is responsible for controlling the lock, identifies the key, and opens access to the rotary mechanism, which moves the locking tab. In addition to rare cases of breakage of the key springs, the larva is in the first place in terms of wear - after all, it is used most often, several times a day.

When to change the larva

The larva is a coded lock mechanism that identifies the key. The locking mechanisms of all locks are arranged in approximately the same way, the only difference is in the "secret", which determines which key is suitable and which is not. Thanks to this device, secrecy is ensured: the door is opened only with a key that is at the disposal of the owners of the house or apartment.

The uniqueness of each larva lies in the set of pins located inside the cylinder

As a rule, locks serve for a very long time. But there are exceptions to all the rules. Sometimes, for one reason or another, the mechanism fails, the process of closing or unlocking is difficult. The key does not turn, sticks, jams. Or vice versa - it rotates easily, but the tongue of the lock does not move. There are times when the key cannot be inserted into the well, and sometimes, on the contrary, it is impossible to get it out of there. The reasons for this behavior of the castle are different:

  • natural breakdown of the mechanism due to wear and tear of parts;
  • directional impact from the outside, mechanical damage, shock;
  • attempts to open the door with another key or without a key at all;
  • breaking;
  • clogging of the keyhole with foreign objects, debris, rust.

In all these cases, immediate replacement of the larva is necessary. If you do not do this in a timely manner, one day you may find yourself in front of the door to own apartment, which is impossible to enter.

Another common reason for larva replacement is the loss (or theft) of keys. According to the testimony of key craftsmen, most cases of loss occur on weekends and holidays.

To restore the work of the castle, in the vast majority of cases it is not necessary to change it entirely... It is enough to purchase a new larva with a set of keys and install it in place of the old one. This work is easy to do on your own using simple tools. But sometimes it is better to turn to professionals, below we will consider such cases in more detail.

Types of castle larvae

"Sekretki" on locks of various designs have a different shape and structure. Therefore, first of all, you need to determine the type of lock. Here is a list of the most common and common types of locks.

  1. Cylinder. A very popular type of locking device. It is difficult to break into, which is important for ensuring the safety of property. Experts distinguish several types of cylinder locks:
  2. Disk. The rotary discs play the role of an identifying device when unlocking. It is rather difficult to find a related cylinder. Most often, the larva in such locks cannot be replaced. Completely change the castle.

    The disk lock is quite simple, but the efficiency does not suffer from this.

  3. Pin. Rare, but still existing locking mechanisms of the English system. It is believed that pin locks are inferior to cylinder locks in terms of reliability. However, perforated systems have been used quite successfully.
  4. Cruciform. Not the most secure type of lock. Experienced burglars open it with a Phillips screwdriver of the right size. Nevertheless, at the end of the last century, this type of locking device was very popular. Many still serve today. It is quite difficult to change the larva in such a castle. To do this, you must completely disassemble its body. Most often, in the event of an emergency situation, the lock is completely changed.

    In order to get to the lock cylinder with a cross-shaped key, you need to remove the mechanism from the doors and open the protective case

  5. Complex locks. This group includes devices with a special degree of protection. As a rule, their Maintenance carried out by the specialists of the manufacturers. Therefore, it is more advisable to entrust the replacement of larvae and secrets, of which there may be several, to professionals.

It is also pertinent to note that according to the type of fastening, locks are classified into mortise, hinged and overhead. This must be taken into account when choosing a new larva, since the fastening is different for everyone. Padlocks do not understand, replacement of the larva is possible only in a workshop. Majority mortise locks for household use are arranged in such a way that access to the larva is possible without disassembling the case. In overhead structures, for replacement, it is necessary to remove the lock from the door.

How to choose a new lock cylinder

The best way to pick up a new "secret" is to unscrew the old one and purchase an exact copy of it in the store. If the lock is made by a large industrial company, then it must be marked on it. Sales personnel are usually well versed in the pictograms and symbols that represent the product number. Consultants or managers will help you find an identical or compatible bot for any lock.

If there is no opportunity to take the "secret" to the store, you need:


In addition to the size, when choosing, the material and color of the larva are taken into account. Copper or steel cores last much longer than brass or duralumin cores, but they are, of course, more expensive. The color is matched to the overall range of interior solutions.

According to the author, the best option can be considered a core made of of stainless steel... This material has practically no restrictions on the duration of operation, looks great on doors and withstands burglary attempts very well. The price of an iron cylinder is lower than that of a copper one, and the surface coating (nickel or chromium) protects the mechanism from corrosion.

Video: how to choose a larva for a castle

What malfunctions of the larva can be repaired without replacement

From time to time (at least once a year) the larva needs to be cleaned and oiled. This will protect it from malfunctions. Liquid lubricant (type VD-40) not only washes the working cavity, but also lubricates the rubbing parts - pins and pins. But after such "flushing" it is recommended to additionally lubricate the larva with graphite grease.

Low viscosity multipurpose household grease is guaranteed to remove dry spots in the locking mechanism

If foreign objects get inside the larva - matches, paper clips, etc., they must be removed and the larva must be blown out with a vacuum cleaner. For the removal of small metal objects it is convenient to use a magnet.

The most unpleasant thing that can happen is getting into the keyhole of a solidifying liquid mixture - diluted cement, acrylic or silicone sealant, polyurethane foam or banal chewing gum. After solidification, these substances turn into a monolithic mass, which is almost impossible to extract. Previously, such "tricks" were used by hooligans, wanting to harm the tenants. In such cases, the larva has to be changed. To protect the keyhole from ill-wishers, a screen is installed inside the core, which is fixed with a steel spring.

How to replace the lock cylinder in the door

Before starting work, you need to make sure you have the right tools.

Necessary tools for replacing and repairing the lock cylinder

To extract the secret from the lock case, you need to prepare in advance simple tools... They will surely be found in every home:


The screwdriver must be selected with the slots identical to the fixing screw. Most often this is the PH2 cross. You can use a drill with attachments or a screwdriver, for example, furniture, with a low speed and high power. The cylinder lock in the mortise lock is located at the end of the door leaf, on the lock strip. Measuring instruments- tape measure, ruler or vernier caliper - needed to determine the exact size of the original larva. Theoretically, you can install a cylinder that is longer than the thickness of the door (but not more than 5 mm). However, it is believed that this increases the risk of penetration, since the part protruding from the outside can easily be broken or cut down and thus gain access to the pivot mechanism.

Dismantling the old lock cylinder

In order to remove the old larva, you must:


If it is impossible to get the larva for any reason (for example, a key is jammed in the lock or the core mechanism is broken), use an electric drill with a drill large diameter(about 10 mm). The core needs to be completely drilled out. After that, crank swivel mechanism and extract the larva, or rather, its remains. In spite of large size drills, metal is easily amenable, since larvae are made, as a rule, from brass or other alloy of light non-ferrous metals.

Replacing the larva in a cylindrical mortise lock with overlay handles

If the door lock kit includes handles with overlays, then before starting the repair it is necessary to loosen the screws of their fastening (4 pcs.) This will open access to the larva.

Using a furniture screwdriver significantly speeds up the dismantling process

After removing the non-working core, a new one must be installed in the vacant place. To do this, a key is inserted into the larva and the cylinder is brought to such a position when the pusher tongue is immersed in the larva body. Then:


Video: replacing the larva in the mortise lock

Replacing the larva in a cylindrical mortise lock without handles

If the cylinder door lock does not have handles, the procedure remains the same. However, you do not need to remove the handles and covers. Access to the larva in such models is open, and dismantling begins directly with unscrewing the larva lock at the end of the door leaf.

Replacing the cylinder of the patch lock

The algorithm of actions for replacing the larva in the overhead lock is somewhat different compared to the mortise one.

In addition to four screws on the outer plane of the door, patch locks are sometimes attached with additional screws at the end of the door leaf. Before the final tightening of all screws, it is necessary to check the operation of the lock. To do this, the gear is scrolled both clockwise and counterclockwise. If the locking mechanism works correctly, the screws are tightened completely, with maximum force.

Video: patch lock repair

Replacing the lock cylinder with a cross-shaped key

As mentioned above, cross key locks are gradually falling out of fashion and use. Partly because of this, the accessories for them are not always easy to get. Nevertheless, if necessary, you can try and replace the larva of such a lock. The order of work is as follows.

  1. The handles and covers are removed from the lock (if any). On the inside of the door, unscrew four fixing screws.
  2. On the front plate at the end of the door, two screws are released, which hold the lock in the door leaf. The lock body is removed from the door.
  3. To remove the cover from the lock case, unscrew all the screws located outside the mechanism. There can be from four to eight.

    Four to eight screws can be used to secure the lock cover

  4. The cruciform larva is twisted. It is usually attached with two screws.
  5. In place of the damaged "lock" a new one is installed and fixed with two screws.

    The larva for hex keys usually has two holes for attaching to the lock body

  6. After checking the work, the lock is reassembled.

In order for the castle to serve for a long time and without surprises, you need to pay a little attention to it at least once a year. First of all, this concerns the cleaning of the larva from pollution. Contact with external environment: dust, moisture and temperature extremes - all this affects the operation of the castle. Sooner or later, dirt accumulates, and the lock can simply jam.

The wash for the lock is poured directly into the keyhole.

Experts recommend periodically (depending on operating conditions) to flush the inner cavity of the larva. For this, there are special fluids that are easy to find in specialized stores and key workshops. The flushing procedure is quite simple:

  • a cleaning spray from a can is poured into the larva;
  • the key is inserted to the full depth;
  • the key is removed and cleaned of adhering dirt.

This operation is performed until the key is completely cleared. After prophylaxis from the inside of the door, the same is done outside.

The key must not be rotated during cleaning. This will spread debris throughout the cylinder mechanism. Only forward and backward movement is allowed.

If the lock on the front door is to be cleaned, it is advisable to choose a flushing fluid with water-repellent and frost-resistant properties.

After cleaning the lock from dust and dirt, the key is dipped in lubricant, inserted into the larva and turned into different directions... This allows oil to penetrate the core and lubricate the pins, springs and pins. As lubricant most often they use machine (motor) or spindle oil. But it is better to use a special lubricant developed specifically for locks of this design. Remove excess grease with a cloth.

Do you urgently need the best and most reliable lock cylinder? Do you have a lot of requirements for an entrance door and this functional element? Can't make your choice best model cylinder?
Then the advice from the article and the recommendations of the competent craftsmen "Zamki-SAO" will be very useful to you. Prices door larvae very different, however, not all products are good. Let's consider the main factors that need to be considered when buying a part.

How to choose the best castle bot?

You can buy a maggot in almost any specialty store. However, first it is worth examining a number of aspects that are important to pay attention to. An ideal and reliable lock cylinder must necessarily meet increased requirements, including the following points:

  1. Maximum level of secrecy.
  2. Trouble-free operation, even with intensive use of the front door.
  3. The best, highest degree of burglar resistance of the larva.
  4. Easy to operate the lock.
  5. Durability.
  6. Resistance to intellectual and forceful influences.
  7. Durability and reliability.

Of course, there are other points that deserve consideration. In most cases, manufacturers of input metal doors not the best larvae are installed in the locks. As a rule, these are elements of medium and low secrecy. If the larva or cylinder is the weak link of the lock, then even a complex crossbar system will be opened in a few minutes by thieves and other intruders.

The reliability and quality of the larva is also determined by whether it is capable of withstanding forceful hacking options, including drilling, knocking out, breaking. Of course, it is best to buy a cylinder from a foreign manufacturer, as it will be of better quality.

What is the most reliable cylinder for a front door lock - the best models

Nowadays there are a lot of reliable and good lock bots that are able to withstand bumping. As a rule, these are cylinders of the highest price category. Our service technicians will kindly advise you and help you choose the most reliable cylinder for your front door lock. The products of the following three manufacturers have gained the greatest popularity, namely:

Whichever cylinder security mechanism you choose, you should give preference to certified products from trusted manufacturers. Simplifying the design while maintaining the burglar resistance of the larva is the course that the owners of many lock and hardware companies take on.

If you need the best lock cylinder, then our leading craftsmen will be happy to select the most reliable model, taking into account the input locking mechanism and your wishes. Moreover, they will delicately change the lock cylinder, provide long-term guarantees for the cylinder and services. We have been working with burglar-resistant and imported models for years, so we always offer our customers the best options for price and quality. We are waiting for your calls!

The front door lock cylinder is the most common reason its breakdowns and the most favorite object of burglars' actions, tk. locks with some types of larvae, in the common sense considered reliable, are actually silently opened in 1-3 minutes. This article describes how to independently replace the cylinder lock cylinder. If the lock sticks, it will save a lot of money. If the degree of secrecy of the castle is unsatisfactory, then again, its increase can be done by replacing the larva, because their installation dimensions and interfacing schemes with the lock mechanism are standardized.

Note: for burglars, the critical time to open the lock is 5-10 minutes. It took longer - the likelihood of "getting burned" increases sharply. In this case, it is more profitable for the villain to look out for other ways of penetration or completely abandon the "case", unless he knows in advance that there are expensive and compact quickly liquid values ​​"in the hut".

Is it possible to?

Replacing the front door lock cylinder with your own hands is possible if it has a cylinder mechanism of one type or another (see below). This can be determined by the type of key: if it is similar to those in Fig. further, then an entry-level home master-amateur can replace the larva in the castle without the use of special tools. An irreversible opening of the lock from the outside is also possible in some cases, see below. This may be necessary if the lock is jammed or the key breaks when trying to unlock the door, and there is no one inside who could open the lock from there.

Types of cylinder mechanisms

In terms of the ratio of the attainable degree of secrecy, reliability and cost, only trigger locks successfully compete with cylinder locks, somewhat yielding to cylinder locks in vandal resistance. The trigger lock key is similar to a 2-blade lever lock key, but it does not activate the moving plates (levers), but the thrown elements - mechanical triggers. It is extremely difficult to find their positions, in which the latchbolt is unlocked, and modern methods... Trigger locks are very expensive, and for a house / apartment not stuffed with gold, jewelry and small antiques, a cylinder lock is optimal for the front door.

The larva of a cylinder lock is also called its core or cylinder mechanism. This is a characteristic assembly unit of a cylinder lock, which is absent in the locking devices of other systems. The peculiarity of the cylinder lock, firstly, is that it is possible to change the cylinder lock for an entrance door of this type from the inside without touching the door itself; the workflow takes no more than half an hour. Secondly, in many cases it is also possible to open a jammed lock from the outside without damaging the door.

Cylinder Lock Keys

Keys in fig. higher from the castles with a trace. types of cylinder mechanisms:

  • Pos. 1 and 2 - classic English with a single-row needle (pin) mechanism.
  • Pos. 3 - with a 2-4 row cylinder (pin or disk) for a cross key.
  • Pos. 4 - with a disc mechanism.
  • Pos. 5 - "punched card" from the larva with counterpins (counter-wings).

The lock cylinder is unlocked by inserting it into the borehole and possibly by an initial turn of the key. Its full rotation by means of the leading element of the larva (see below) and (in some types of locks) of the transmission parts pushes the bolt of the lock, which pushes / retracts its tongue (tongues). Larvae for overhead and mortise door locks with cylinder mechanisms different types arranged differently; acc. the procedures for their replacement are also different.

Note: it would be more correct to call the keyhole in the cylinder lock a socket, because a well, by definition, is something through.

Acicular

The principle of operation of a cylinder lock with a simple 1-row (English) cylinder is shown at the top left in Fig. The cutouts of the standard inserted key shift the spring-loaded split needles (pins) so that the lines of their connectors coincide with the dividing line of the cylinder (rotor) and the body (holder). The cylinder can now be turned with a key. The mustache of the cylinder is then turned on the leash with the cam (link with the finger). The cam (finger) will push the bolt and the lock will open / close.

The device of lock larvae with a needle cylinder mechanism

Cylinder mechanisms of any degree of complexity are produced in the next. constructive performance:

  • The key handle (item a in the figure) is the most convenient and common type.
  • Key-key (pos. B) - used when the door must also be locked from the inside. For example, at the door of the common lobby of several apartments.
  • Half cylinder (half cylinder, half core, pos. C) - usually placed on entrance doors non-residential and utility rooms.
  • Pos. d - under the cross key. It is considered a mechanism of increased secrecy, but we will talk about this later.

More reliable

The main drawback of a simple English cylinder is the low degree of secrecy; the number of its combinations rarely exceeds 1000, therefore, if the house is on the outskirts, the thief will have time to open the lock by simply selecting the keys. Further, a master key and 2-3 lever probes enter the well of such a lock, with which the larva quietly and reversibly unlocks in 2-3 minutes. Finally, if the house is also on the outskirts, pins can be made in the same 2-3 minutes. drill, see below.

The pin larvae of increased reliability are provided with a burglar-resistant hard alloy rod (from drilling, indicated by a green arrow in pos. I fig.) And additional rods (blue and purple arrows) that prevent the use of a thin thief's tool. But the degree of its secrecy remains low, so honest locksmiths, at the request of the owners, prefer to open such locks from the outside by selecting keys.

In larvae with counterpins, moving under the action of gravity (pos. II), the secrecy increases by orders of magnitude: if one row has only 100 combinations, then together it will be 100x100 = 10,000. »There is no need: the counterpins interfere with taking the lock with the tool. It is possible to quickly open such a lock from the outside only by drilling with a diamond drill. Keys from locks with counterpins (pos. IIa) are called punched-card or computer keys for their external resemblance to antediluvian information carriers. The lack of larvae for a punched card key is a small stroke of the pins. Increased precision in the manufacture of the mechanism is required, which makes it more sensitive to contamination. Therefore, in country houses with such locks, larvae are used on the same principle, but with a comb key, see at the end, about choosing a new larva.

Disk

Larvae of locks with a cylinder-disk mechanism (pos. A in the next figure) are used most often in overhead apartment locks, but sometimes in inexpensive mortise locks.

The device of the cylinder lock cylinder with a disc mechanism

The principle of its action is illustrated by position B:

  1. The angles α between the axes of symmetry of the borehole and the sampling holes of each of the disks that make up the code package are different;
  2. The angles α of each disc correspond to the bevels on the key shaft;
  3. The inserted key is turned slightly;
  4. The selection holes converge into a groove (pos. B);
  5. As the key is turned further, the finger falls into the groove so that its middle falls on the joint between the rotor and the holder;
  6. Further, when the key is turned, the finger pushes the clip, which actuates the crossbar.

The real advantage of the disk lock cylinder is one: it is very difficult to break the key. The disc mechanism is not very sensitive to pollution, and the code packet can be turned endlessly with a non-standard key. Therefore, it is advisable to supply doors with disc locks to rooms that have been unattended for a long time and are unattractive to burglars: country houses, sheds, garages. An amateur craftsman can also benefit from the relative ease of recoding a disk lock with his own hands. For example, if the key is lost under suspicious circumstances or the keys were transferred by the previous owners. Rather than spending money on a new lock, you can sort out the package and make new keys from the blanks. How a disk lock is recoded at home, see next. video.

Video: recoding a disk lock yourself

The disadvantages of a disk lock in a case for storing valuables are more than serious. The first is the same low level of secrecy as in ordinary English. There are disc locks for a cross key on sale (see Fig.), But they are just as unreliable as pin locks (see below), but they are more prone to contamination than punch cards. Second, the well of the disc lock is wider than that of the English one, and it is even easier to insert a special tool into it. A "clean" opening of a disk lock for the purpose of an unofficial search (so that the owner does not guess and a secret visit) takes no more than 5 minutes, and a thieves' one - 2-3 minutes.

The device of the cylinder lock with a disc mechanism for a cross key

Third, the locking and unlocking mechanisms of the disk lock are separated, because it cannot be locked by turning the key backwards. The locking is activated by a spring-loaded flag protruding under the tongue. When the door is closed, the flag is recessed and releases the latch (dog) of the bolt pressed by a stronger spring. Therefore, the owners of an apartment with a disk lock at the entrance have a lot of chances to be in the position of engineer Shchukin before meeting with Ostap Bender.

Fastening and opening

The fastening of the overhead larvae and parts of inexpensive mortise locks are often done longitudinally (longitudinal, axial, pos. 1 and 2 in the figure). The bolt leash rotates with a freely suspended lamella (black arrows). To remove the lock cylinder with axial fastening from the inside, you must first remove the lock case and unscrew the fastening screws, after which the cylinder is pulled out. Outside, the axially mounted larva is torn out without a key using a crowbar or a pry bar with a sharp end. If the autopsy is the master's, and the door is not steel and you are reluctant to screw it up, you will have to drill it. The axial cylinder of the disk lock must be drilled on both sides of the well (red arrow in pos. 1), and the pin cylinder in the places marked in purple at pos. 2. They are located symmetrically on both sides of the rotor at the level of the upper edge of the well (2-sided red arrow).

Methods for fixing the lock larvae

It is more reliable against breaking of the larva of locks with side fastening, pos. 3. When opening from the outside, it is useless to drill out the bolt or try to knock out the larva in order to push the bolt with a screwdriver: the cam of the leash will interfere (green arrow in pos. 3). In this case, the only way out is to drill out the pins (see below). From the inside, it is possible to pull out the larva from the lock with side fastening for replacement without much difficulty:

  • Remove the inner handle of the latch-lock (see below);
  • The outer handle of the lock is taken out together with the square axis;
  • Remove the inner pad of the lock;
  • Find the head of the mounting screw under the tongues (green arrows on pos. 4 and 5);
  • Remove the screw;
  • Take out the larva inside.

How to remove the handle

Difficulties in this process can only be caused by removing the lock handle (if the key has not broken in the lock, see below). Its attachment to the axis is possible as follows:

  1. On both sides of the neck of the handle, you can see the ends of a steel rod, flush grinded. The upper end, when viewed under a magnifying glass, is wider than the lower end - a through conical pin.
  2. A rounded head without a slot is visible - a blind pin or a shaped bolt.
  3. The head of the slotted screw is visible - a simple bolt.
  4. One protruding end of the pin is visible - an old-style blind pin.

A simple bolt is easy to turn out. The old blind pin is pulled out with small end pliers-needle-nose pliers (something like small blacksmith's pliers) or side cutters with one-sided sharpening (without bevels on the smooth sides of the jaws). The tapered pin is carefully knocked out from the narrow end with a light hammer and a spacer from a thin rigid steel bar; e.g. a nail with a sawn end. It is impossible to hit with sharp ones: the end of the pin can rivet, and then it will have to be drilled out!

A head without a slot must first be checked: the pin is behind it or the bolt. To do this, a rubber or PVC tube is pulled tightly over the head (so as not to spoil the view) and try to turn it back and forth with small pliers. Turns in both directions - pin; it is taken out like the old deaf, but in this case, you can still pry the head off with nail tweezers. If there is a shaped bolt behind the head (in this case, it will most likely be from below), then it will turn on one side and it will be noticeable that it turns out. Well, they twist it.

If the lock sticks

It is better to try to open a faulty lock from the outside with a key, because A rusted larva can most often be repaired. The best way to unlock the jammed lock properly is 2-3 drops of brake fluid into the well. After an exposure of 1-2 minutes, the most rusty, but not yet completely broken, lock most often opens. Further, if the secrecy of the larva suits, it can be sorted out and repaired, see the video guide:

Video: disassembling and assembling the lock cylinder

If the key is broken

Removing the larva from the lock is unlikely and it will work without drilling if a broken key is stuck in the well. The simplest way remove its remainder - a small black (phosphated) self-tapping screw for metal. White galvanized and wood screws are not hard enough. The hardware is wrapped in the gap between the rest of the key and the well; according to the principle of recoil, the broken off will climb out. If there are other methods, for locks with a very narrow hole, see eg. track. video clip.

Video: how to remove a broken key from the lock

How to drill

Since an ordinary citizen does not keep a set of tools for opening locks (we will consider it to be a locksmith, not a thief), and a jammed larva will still have to be changed, the very affordable way- drill out the pins. To do this, you need a drill from 3-4 mm; where to drill is shown in Fig. below. The drilled needles will not fall down on their own, burrs and residual springs will interfere. Therefore, after drilling, insert any key or (worse) flat screwdriver suitable for the profile (location of the longitudinal grooves) and turn, shaking, until the larva is unlocked.

Where is the best place to drill the larva of the castle

Further, since the owner is not a thief and not a secret agent, then the time factor does not threaten him with prison. Therefore, burglar-proof pins can be drilled with a victorious drill. It will take a long time: there are castles, which can be traversed by the victor in an hour or more. You need to drill victoriously with the lightest pressure so that the drill does not crumble. Larvae with counterpins for a key-punched card or comb will have to be drilled twice, above and below.

Replacement

Well, finally, I got out, damn it! Now, what kind of larva should you buy for the castle to fit and be more reliable than the previous one? With the dimensions on the end, it's simple: we take it with us to the store door trim with a window for the larva. If the lock with a larva is on an axial fastening, it will also be necessary to remove the dimensions of the lamella in order to reach the bolt leash and enter it.

What to look for when buying a new lock cylinder

For side mounted locks greater importance has an asymmetry of the mounting hole, pos. 1 in fig. Standard installation dimensions of the lock cylinder for steel door given in pos. 2, but there may be others. And the last - the type of the crossbar drive: cam or gear, pos. 3. The cam configuration and gear module are also different. So it's better to take the old larva with you.

Which is better?

Let us reveal to the reader a secret well known in certain (and by no means only criminal) circles: "top-secret" locks for a cross key are opened instantly
but with a strong, sharp turn of a sturdy Phillips screwdriver. The code elements (pins, discs) and the gaps of the metal of the cage between them are very thin in them. Simple English and disk lock larvae, as said, are opened with a special tool in 2-5 minutes, which is less than the critical thieves' time.

The larvae of a modern cylinder lock of high security and secrecy

The conclusion is simple: it would be best to buy a new lock cylinder for a punch card key for a city apartment, and for country house- also counter-pin under a comb wrench, see fig .. If other possible ways of unauthorized entry into the house are suppressed (good outdoor lighting, local security alarm, bars on the windows, a guard dog in a kennel or aviary; perhaps a video surveillance and registration system) then you can sleep peacefully behind doors with such locks. How real is it in our time.