Strength of character lies not in the ability to punch through walls, but in the ability to find doors. Better yet, not only be able to find them, but also be able to create these doors. This article will focus on how to realize your strength in everyday life and how to make a door with your own hands.

How to prepare

It would seem that the modern market is so wide that you can find a door of any shape, size and quality on it. But this is not always the case. Especially when it comes to an exclusive, a special kind of wood, a spectacular stained glass window, an outstanding form. Buying a standard factory design is boring and mediocre. And making a door with your own hands is a very easy task, especially if there is suitable canvas, a couple of skillful hands and a little time.

However, in order to make a beautiful and quality door yourself, you need to first study the subtleties and nuances of the material, evaluate the complexity of technology and calculations, identify pitfalls during its installation.

First you need to prepare all the materials and tools that you will need for work. Indeed, the final result is influenced not only by the quality of the raw materials themselves, but also by the quality and reliability of the auxiliary tools and materials that were used in the assembly and installation of the door. And this will require:

• manual milling machine. With its help, the processing of a wooden product is carried out, it is shaped, the groove elements are grinded;
• hand-held circular saw;
• Bulgarian. In this case, it will serve for sanding wood;
• screwdriver for door mounting;
• building level and tape measure;
• hammer;
• pencil or marker.

Regardless of what type of product needs to be made, whether it is interior, entrance or doors for a summer cottage, a single technology is used for all. Therefore, after studying this article, you can easily make homemade doors for any needs. In addition to the tools, you will also need the material itself. As a rule, they choose an array of different types of wood: oak, ash, birch, larch, pine.

Some people prefer exotic species: mahogany, wenge, beech. The choice depends on personal preference, the type of room and the overall concept of the interior.

When making a structure with your own hands, you need to take into account the fact that a wooden canvas will require preliminary processing, especially for hard wood. When choosing a wooden canvas, you need to focus on ensuring that the wood is even, smooth. There should be no cracks or knot holes. The selected board is first dried in a well-ventilated room at a temperature of about 25 ° C.

You can dry outside, but only in dry weather, preferably in summer time middle lane Russia. Depending on the type of wood and its initial state, it can take up to ten days to dry the web.

Popular models

Before proceeding to the manufacture of doors, you need to think about what type they will be (hinged or sliding), decide on the shape and design. The most important characteristics all doors are functionality and appearance because they will integral element interior.

Let's characterize the main models:

• Very popular today sliding doors. The door of the "compartment" type can be either single-leaf or with two leaves. Sliding doors on rollers are an alternative to conventional options with hinged leaves, especially if there is an acute issue of saving space. There are two types of sliding doors: bottom rails and top rails. So, using a mechanical system with lower guides, the door "walks" along the built-in rollers, reducing the load on the walls.

Such a fastening system sliding door it is advantageous to use for thin partitions in apartments.

• Among compartment doors designs with a hinged mechanism are especially popular. Hinged sliding doors are usually made of glass, due to its lower weight compared to solid wooden counterparts. In addition to the fact that this type of door also takes up little space in the apartment, plus it also lies in the fact that its glass surface perfectly transmits light into the room. This option very appropriate if you plan to overhaul the "Khrushchev" in order to free the already small area of ​​the apartment from unnecessary structures.

• Book-door, like a compartment door, helps to maintain useful space in the apartment. Its folding structure consists of two separate canvases, interconnected in such a way that when opened, one part lies on top of the other, without cluttering the interior. They are often used in dressing rooms and bathrooms in bedrooms.

• Folding door- another option for small apartments... Compared to swing doors, such doors can save up to two meters of space. This type of product can be used in any interior. The design of the accordion doors is varied. There are even interesting options with intricate stained glass windows.

• Well-known paneled doors remain popular to this day because of their aesthetic characteristics. A paneled door differs in design from a conventional one in that additional thinner canvases are inserted inside the door frame. Thus, even the most boring door can be made very original using inserts with textured patterns or carvings. The use of these doors - not only office rooms but also residential buildings and apartments.

Manufacturing

A standard hinged door consists of several parts:

• door frame;
• door leafs;
• fasteners;
• castle;
• frames in the form of platbands.

If the fabric of the product is not a monolithic board from an array, but has several components, it is necessary to clarify what they will be made of and what they are functional purpose... The frame of the structure is the frame. It sets the main dimensions of the product, gives it rigidity and shape. External visible part the canvas is represented by the sheathing. In this capacity, not only wood panels can serve, but also plastic profiles or glass stained-glass windows.

If the task is to make the front door, then you need to take care of the insulation, which is placed inside, under the cladding.

This article will provide information on how to independently make a door of the simplest design with a hinged fastening mechanism, without insulation and complex cladding options like glass decorative elements and carved panels.

Measurements

Seven times measure cut once. This proverb will be more appropriate than ever when making your own door. Indeed, the final result will depend on how correctly the measurements are made. And you don't have to figure out which parts to measure. All the main parameters have long been known, it is enough just to write them down on a sheet of paper and measure them using a regular construction tape.

It is imperative to measure:

• door width (distance from the left to the right edge of the leaf);
• door height (distance from the floor to the top point);
• the width of the doorway;
• the thickness of the doorway;
• the slope of the opening (if there are distortions);
• evenness (determine the elements, the size of which differs from the main one).

When determining the width of the product, it is recommended to measure the distance between the side parts of the opening in the floor area, in the center of the opening and at the upper border of the opening and find the average value. If necessary, if these values ​​differ, the opening can be trimmed.

For interior door the width is usually 80-90 cm, for the entrance - 90-120 cm. The height of the door is determined by the height of the opening and is approximately 200-210 cm. Measurements are taken with the same tape measure from the floor to the top point of the doorway.

It should be borne in mind that if the apartment does not yet have flooring, then the measured height will not be entirely accurate, therefore for a start it is recommended to finish work with the floor so that all parameters of the future door are taken into account correctly. When determining the height of the door, measurements are also carried out at three points (extreme left, center and extreme right).

The thickness of the doorway is measured similar to the width of the door. You just need to take into account that the width of the box will be slightly larger, since it is necessary to leave a distance between the door and the box for free movement of the door. And yet, when forming the box, it should be remembered that its width should be several centimeters less than the measured width of the opening, since it is necessary to leave technological voids during installation.

The thickness of the doorway is measured at six points (thickness at the bottom, middle, top for the left edge and the same positions for the right edge). This parameter will depend on the thickness of the wall into which the door will be mounted. For the entrance, it is usually more than for the interior, but there are exceptions. Here you should also pay attention to the presence of non-standard dimensions of the thickness of the opening. In this case, it is necessary to provide supplements that will compensate for this moment.

In order to simplify the installation of the structure, it is necessary to first determine the evenness of the opening... Using the building level, check the vertical of the opening (at three points) and the diagonal. Use a tape measure to measure the distance inside the opening diagonally, from top corner to the bottom, for each side. Both values ​​should be approximately equal. In the event of strong deviations, not only the appearance of the structure will deteriorate, but also the reliability of the fastening system is called into question.

After the basic parameters have been measured, proceed to the correction of irregularities and distortions. To do this, they carry out plastering of these places or cut off the excess with the help of a grinder. The ideal option would be to level the opening with drywall sheets.

Elimination of the shortcomings identified in the process of measuring the dimensions of the product will certainly have a positive effect on further work and will eliminate many unpleasant moments during installation.

Materials (edit)

Modern market oversaturated with various door options from a variety of materials. However, the tree remains traditional. Thanks to its high rates quality, as well as the property of being perfectly combined with wooden furniture and parquet board, wooden doors have become more in demand, especially in the interiors of apartments and country houses.

In addition to its aesthetic characteristics, wooden crafts have a number of other advantages: the strength of the material, ease of processing of the material, the ability to retain heat, good sound insulation, as well as environmental friendliness.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that if the choice fell on a wooden door, then all other parts must also be made of wood (box, platbands, extensions).

Among the shortcomings of wood, one can note the flammability, the ability to absorb moisture and expand, and, of course, the high cost.

The most popular, but not the easiest to manufacture, are paneled doors. It is better to use ready-made cutters as internal inserts, since cutting them yourself is laborious work. On construction market you can purchase a set of cutters for the future door. To save on material, the door leaf can be made of boards, instead of a wide monolithic leaf.

If you need to make a door to a summer cottage or a bathhouse, you can use even cheaper materials. Not a bad alternative solid wood there will be a plywood door. This is a fairly strong material; during its manufacture, the peeled veneer sheets are glued to each other so that the fibers of one sheet are perpendicular to the fibers of the other. The outer layers of plywood are pasted over with aspen, pine or larch veneer (these types of veneer have good strength and aesthetic appearance).

Lining products are also an inexpensive option. The advantage of this material is that in order to make a door, it is not necessary to use the factory lining, you can make separate profiles from scrap materials.

except natural materials, synthetic polycarbonates are widely used. Choice of this material for the manufacture of a door, it is advantageous to do it when it is assumed that the structure will be influenced by unfavorable weather conditions (humidity, temperature). But if earlier polycarbonate was used for the manufacture of greenhouses, now it is easily used for entrance doors, the main thing is to provide a reliable base and insulation.

If desired, you can build a structure from other polymers. An aluminum frame with plexiglass inserts is often made. Looks pretty stylish, but these materials are quite expensive.

How to make a door frame?

Before you start assembling the door frame, you need to study its structure. So, the door frame consists of four main parts: two pillars (the longest parts), a threshold and an upper crossbar (short parts). To begin with, measure the length of the racks. In the case of using a threshold, it is equal to the length of the door plus 2-3 centimeters for the gap on each side. If there is no threshold, then instead of a gap from the bottom, add 15-20 centimeters. This will allow the door to move freely from the floor.

The measured values ​​are traced on the canvas and each rack is cut out with a special knife.

The crossbar and the threshold are the same components. Their length consists of the width of the door, the same two gaps and the thickness of the frame. The measured dimensions are transferred to a wooden canvas and one or two elements are cut out, depending on the need for a threshold. In the upper crosspiece of the box, grooves are cut out, marking the lines where the posts intersect with the upper crossbar, and carefully cut these sections with a jigsaw on each side.

After all the grooves have been cut, the uprights and crossbar are aligned on the floor to make sure they match. After that, the cut out parts are carefully sanded with sandpaper, eliminating all irregularities and rough roughness. When all the elements of the box are ready, you can start assembling.

In order to assemble the structure, you will need a drill or screwdriver. A 2-3 mm drill is inserted into the screwdriver and holes are drilled in the aligned corners of the future box. These holes will keep the material intact when screwing in the screws. Screw the screws into each hole with a Phillips drill. The door frame is almost complete.

To make sure that the box is made correctly, you need to place it on the floor and put the selected door leaf inside, assessing the presence of gaps between them. It is worth noting that if the task is to independently make sliding structure, then you need to take into account its distinctive mechanism. When such a door is opened, it will move to the side like a pencil case (enter the wall or lie on it), therefore, when forming the box, a groove for the door should be provided in one of the racks.

How to make the door itself: step by step instructions

Now let's look at how to make the door itself. For outbuildings, the door will be a simple shield made of individual boards fastened together with wooden straps. Interior wooden doors should have a more aesthetic appearance; simple fittings are not applicable here.

The work should be carried out on a joinery stand or on a table that will allow the product to be fully positioned on it.

To form the door leaf, grooved boards with grooves are used (you can also cut the grooves yourself). The thickness of the boards should be from 2.5 to 4 centimeters, depending on whether it is an interior or an entrance door. Prepared boards are folded into a shield. If grooved boards are taken, then the grooves are removed on the outer boards using a circular saw.

The boards are glued together with carpentry glue, while the pattern of the annual rings must be observed (they must lie in the same direction so that an imbalance does not stand out on the finished product). The blank of the door is placed in a vice in order to combine the elements more tightly, and the glue is allowed to dry. After that, the entire surface of the web is passed with a milling machine, special attention is paid to joints and uneven fragments.

If the thickness of the boards is not sufficient to use the door as an entrance, then you can glue the boards in two layers. Such a door will be quite massive and heavy.

Next, proceed to the design of the finished shield. Using a stencil, transfer the drawing onto a wooden canvas, first with a pencil. Using a router with a manual mechanism, they carefully cut out the pattern, changing the cutters. The finished drawing and the canvas itself should be treated with sandpaper, then blotted with a special antiseptic solution. If the door is entrance, then it must be treated with moisture-resistant agents and fire retardants. So it will last much longer.

How to insert?

On door frame mark the places where the loops will be located. Marks are also made on the door leaf in the appropriate places. To do this, put it in a vertical position, the top will be on the side where the hinges are attached. On the reverse side, mark the location of the castle. Previously, the door is placed in a box, the marking is checked, the location of the lock tongue on the box is marked, then the hinges are inserted, then they are applied to the door and to the box, drilled with a drill. The tongue is carefully cut with a jigsaw.

In order to correctly install the door lock, it is first applied to the installation site on the product, circled, and all the necessary technological holes are marked with dots. After the depth of installation of the lock has been determined, it is placed in the marked place and screwed on. Now that all the parts are ready, you need to install them correctly.

First, we insert the door frame into the opening. We align and secure it with wedges. You can adjust the box already mounted in the wall by hitting the wedges with a hammer. Then dowels and self-tapping screws are inserted into the holes drilled in the wall and box. And the last and most important thing is the assembly of the door and the frame.

It is better to perform this operation together to avoid injury, since the door leaf is a heavy structure. Holding the door in weight, we fix the hinges with self-tapping screws.

After the assembly of the main parts is completed, you can do the platbands. It is easier to buy ready-made in the store or make it yourself using wooden blanks 1-1.5 cm thick and a simple jigsaw. Each edge of the casing is cut at a 45 degree angle and adjusted to length. Finished products are fixed at the level of the box using wood glue or small nails.

In general, the work of installing the door, with a competent approach and quality materials, will take no more than two days. And the above recommendations can be used to make doors from other materials, changing only some of the tools.

Finishing

Finishing will help to give the finished product a finished look. You can also do it yourself, it is more pleasant and less complicated work than installing and assembling the door itself. Door finishing can be done as follows:

• door painting;
• varnishing;
• wallpapering or decorative film;
• decoupage;
• insert of mirrors and colored glasses;
• lining with fabric;
• the use of methods of aging a wooden canvas.

If you don't want to waste time decorating your door, you can just paint it ordinary paint or stain, and then, if desired, varnish. Waterproof wallpaper and self-adhesive film are convenient to use if the door is installed in the bathroom, as this will additionally provide it with moisture protection. If you're looking for a stylish design, explore artificial aging techniques. So even an ordinary home-made door can be turned into an exquisite element of the interior.

Doors are made of boards, furniture boards or beams according to previously prepared drawings. To figure out what and how wooden doors are made, let's get acquainted with their varieties.

Door types by design

The solid wood box has the following advantages:

At the same time, the wooden canvas has the following features:

• raw materials quickly absorb moisture;
• the presence of cracks and knots;
• flammability.

To reduce absorption, the board is dried, treated with hot steam and impregnated.

Massive doors

Before making wooden doors, it is recommended to determine the specifics of the production process. The dacha can be protected from burglars with a massive canvas, for the manufacture of which thick grooved or planed boards are used. The resulting structure is reinforced with horizontal or inclined bridges.

For the manufacture of a massive door, wood of a dense structure is used.

For the manufacture of a massive entrance door, cedar, larch or oak are used. This wood is characterized by a dense structure and textured pattern.

If the project of the suburban area includes a bath, then linden, pine is used to arrange the opening. The bathhouse should be operated after the wood has been treated with an antiseptic.

Paneled doors

For the manufacture of paneled canvases, boards and beams are used, obtained by gluing lamellas. Then the workpiece is covered with veneer. Before building the canvas, a drawing is being prepared. The configuration of the panels is indicated on it. It can be the same or different. Instead of wooden elements glass can be used.

Paneled doors are most often installed indoors.

To equip vertical and transverse elements, you will need to glue the timber. For the manufacture of the canvas, a floorboard of the appropriate thickness is used. Spikes are used to fix individual elements.

Door assembly diagram

If a panel is used to make a canvas, you need to consider:

• the reliability of the product is directly influenced by the number of cross-sections;
• a homemade box is formed from a bar, and a rail or plastic is used to make a panel;
• glazing bead is used to fix the panels.

Since the paneled door has a small thickness, it is considered the best option to equip the interior doorway.

Panel doors

The panel box is made of fiberboard, veneer or laminate. The frame is assembled from boards. Sheets of fiberboard, MDF or chipboard are used as a shield.

Panel door construction

The canvases in question are classified into the following types:

• solid - filled with bars fastened together;
• hollow - made of lateral and transverse beams. For cladding, lining is used;
• small-hollow - have a different filling.

To create a high-quality canvas on your own, the frame is pre-covered with plywood. The material is laid in 2 layers. The size of 1 layer is 24 mm. This technology prevents deformation of the coating.

Tools for the job

Of the tools you will need:

• to create grooves and holes, you need a router;
• hacksaw;
• to grind the ends of the doors, you need a plane;
• chisels;
• hammer;
• screwdriver.

Standard set of tools for making a door

To assemble the doors, you will need the following materials:

• tongue-and-groove boards;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue.

The purchased wood is additionally dried. The boards are laid so that they do not touch each other.

Lumber selection

Before assembling the canvas, an individual plan of the upcoming work is drawn up. Particular attention is paid to the choice of boards. In this case, the following criteria are taken into account:

• financial opportunities;
• purchase of commercial timber;
• residual moisture - 15%;
• checking the evenness of the material;
• the thickness of the boards is 25-50 mm;
• the array is sanded.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Any step-by-step plan for the manufacture of a door involves the assembly of a shield. If it is envisaged to install the canvas in a bath, then a simple assembly of the shield is carried out. To fix the boards, transverse and longitudinal elements are used. A warm box for the home is made with aesthetics in mind. The assembled shield is polished.

Making a door from solid wood

V step by step plan the assembly of the canvas includes the correct choice of consumables. To make a shield, tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of more than 25 mm are required. Then the consumable is cut into pieces.

The grooved boards must be flat and without grooves on the front sides.

When assembling the shield, it is recommended to take into account the direction of the annual rings. The tongue-and-groove lock and wood glue are used to connect the grooved boards. If the consumable is non-grooved boards, then they are collected using glue.

Work is carried out on a large surface area. The assembled coating is tightened with clamps. If the shield is dry, it is processed with a milling cutter. In order to have good sound insulation, it is recommended to assemble the shield from several layers of boards. The resulting structure is clamped with clamps.

Traditional ways dressing boards in solid wood doors

For strapping, crossbars installed at the top, in the middle and at the bottom of the cover are used. The grooves are marked on the canvas. The grooves to be made should be ½ of the thickness of the consumable.

Assembly diagram

Holes are cut with a router. It is more difficult to cut the grooves by hand. This will require a chisel. Use a rubber mallet to insert the cross member. If it is planned to apply a drawing on the resulting shield, its outline is preliminarily drawn with a pencil according to the template. A cutter is used for cutting.

Cutouts are milled according to a previously drawn pencil drawing

Then the canvas is painted with pretreatment with an antiseptic. On the canvas and the box, markings are made for mounting the hinges. The markings for the handle and lock are made in the same way. Final stage- canopy canopy in the opening.

Antiseptic and varnish treatment

Panel door manufacturing

The instruction for the manufacture of the thyroid cloth allows the use of finely filled boards. Experts identify 3 assembly methods for such a design:

• preliminary assembly of the frame with subsequent filling of its internal space. With the help of this technology, you can create a solid or shallow shield;
• separate production of the shield with its subsequent fixation in the frame. The last stage is sheathing with finishing material;
• the manufactured shield is mounted in a frame and revetted.

To assemble the canvas according to the first method, the primary strapping is carried out. She will determine the size of the future door. For the construction, a bar with a section of 30 × 120 mm is used. The consumable is cut taking into account the dimensions of the future structure.

The next step is to select the type of connection in the corners. Experts advise using the "half-tree" method. Precise marking of future grooves - important stage shield assembly.

Connection diagram of the frame elements

All grooves are coated with glue. The connection of the timber is carried out on a flat but large area. If the glue is dry, the joints are fixed with pins. To do this, perform through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

For cladding the frame, plywood or fiberboard is used. Marking is performed, the frame is removed. The frame returns to its original place. It must be pressed against the facing material treated with glue.

For cladding, plywood or fiberboard is used

To fill the interior space, MDF is used. It is glued to the bottom sheet finishing material... But first, the glue must dry well. In parallel, it is recommended to prepare a consumable for the outer facing of the canvas.

Internal filling gives rigidity to the canvas

If you need to glue 2 sheets, then the first sheet is fiberboard, and the second is laminated material or SHF. The resulting structure is sent to the press.

You can sheathe the door with natural wooden slats... They are fixed to the frame. The holes made are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. If the surface is dry, sand it with sandpaper. All corners and ends are milled. In the finished door leaf and,. The door is mounted in a matching box.

A frame door is made using a similar technique - the internal space is additionally reinforced with beams. But before starting work, accurate calculations, a drawing is being prepared.

Paneled door manufacturing

To make a paneled door, you will need special carpentry tools and experience. Components structures are made of plywood, solid boards. A drawing is prepared in advance, on which 4 panels are marked.

The frame is made of timber. It is pre-processed with a cutter. Then a groove is made on one side of it. Spikes are cut on the crossbars, and the edges are processed with a router. Panels and mullions are inserted into the grooves.

The end part of the coating, which will go to the end of the canvas, must be flat. In the vertical elements, slots are made for assembling the structure.

To make the panels, plywood or chipboard is used. Some panels are replaced with glass. In this case, glazing beads are additionally used. Panels with a flat plane are mounted and framed with glazing beads.

Otherwise, the panels are cut with a milling cutter. In this way, a relief configuration is created. Plywood is used for the manufacture of panels. Each element of the future canvas is treated with an antiseptic and dried.

All parts are assembled into a single structure on a flat surface, and each spike is coated special glue. Step by step assembly doors:

• gluing the crossbars into the grooves of the vertical beams;
• installation of midships;
• installation of the remaining panels;
• gluing a vertical bar;
• fixing glazing beads for finishing.

A rubberized hammer is used to install the tenons into the grooves. The canvas is padded from the sides. A building corner is used to check the corners. The coating is compressed with clamps.

On the canvas, markings are made for installing hinges and a handle with a lock. Installation of fittings is carried out after the completion of finishing work. For finishing applied acrylic paint either. To obtain a dark finish, a stain is used.

Warming and soundproofing

Door insulation scheme

Painting

At the next stage, processing and decoration of the manufactured structure is carried out. In this case, it is recommended to adhere to the following plan:

• processing the coating with sandpaper or a sander;
• impregnation of wood with an antiseptic. The first layer should dry well. Then the processing is repeated;
• the canvas is covered with a special putty, which can be replaced with a primer. In this case, the canvas is processed 2 times. But each layer applied should dry well. This will take about 2 days;
• for finishing the coating, paint, varnish, and stain are used. The stain must be applied to the primer. Taking into account the desired shade, the appropriate number of layers of stain is applied. Each layer will take 4 hours to dry. To fix the result, the stain is covered with two layers of varnish.

For finishing the door, paint, varnish, stain are used

Often people cannot choose suitable door from the available assortment. Some people buy what they have, while others decide to do everything themselves. To make wooden doors with your own hands, you will need some special woodworking equipment, tools and, of course, it is better to have carpentry skills. But still, if everything is not available, then along the way you can improvise and achieve the necessary success. In addition, readers will learn how to select and dry the boards for the future door.

Door material

Usually, pine is used for the manufacture of wooden doors, less often spruce. It is bad to use it for products, because there are many branches in its wood, which significantly complicate the work. In addition, the fiber structure is heterogeneous and often delaminates. For these reasons, the optimal type of wood to make wooden doors with your own hands is pine.

Choosing boards

To make the door beautiful and even, you need to carefully choose the boards. They must be flawless, not have large knots, and also so that the structure of the fibers itself is even. If blue is visible on the surface, this means that the storage technology has been violated and the material has begun to rot. It is better not to use such wood, because it will begin to rot in the future.

Drying purchased boards

In any case, in order to be completely confident in the material, it must be dried. Even if it looks ready for use, it is better to play it safe before making wooden doors with your own hands. Place each plank on spacers that will prevent the wood from touching each other. This is necessary so that the moisture contained within the fibers can escape freely. If this is not done, mold will form and ruin the material.

The place where the wood will be dried should be well ventilated and, preferably, the temperature should be above 25 ° C. This process takes from a month to two.

The tree can be dried even faster by placing it in a special chamber for this. A temperature of no more than 50 ° C is created in it. If you make it higher, then the resin can flow out, and it holds the fibers together. To make a wooden front door made with your own hands strong and serve for a long time, you should not rush in this process.

The drying chamber can be made in a garage, a booth of the required size, or a car body. The boards are stacked as when drying on outdoors, interspersing them with spacers.

Materials and tools for creating a door

• boards;
• insulation;
• glue - carpentry;
• roulette;
• level;
• plane;
• chisel;
• drill;
• milling cutter;
• self-tapping screws;
• loops;
• hammer;
• nails;
• sandpaper.

A good one with her own hands should qualitatively protect her home not only from intruders, but also from the cold, as well as noise. Therefore, one side is made absolutely flat and pasted over with fiberboard, on which insulation is then put.

On the inside, we set the dimensions of the door itself. In addition, you need to decide on the gaps and the bottom clearance. When everything is ready, you can cut out a rectangle from a fiberboard sheet, which will exactly repeat the shape and size of the door. You should be especially careful about marking and cutting corners. All of them should be 90 °.

So, we cut two boards, making them 5 cm thick and 11 cm wide.We will create wooden doors with our own hands for standard box 200 * 90 cm. To prevent the canvas from rubbing against the surface, as well as to open and close freely, its dimensions must be reduced a little. Therefore, the doors will be 192 * 82.

Before designing and assembling the door, you need to check the geometry of the frame so that its corners are clearly 90 °. For entrance doors, five panels are most often made. This solution allows them to be made from whole pieces of material. So, you need to trim two boards 192 cm long, and four 72 cm long, this is taking into account 5 cm studs on each side.

It is better to arrange the panels symmetrically, but if you want to achieve an asymmetric shape, you can fix them as needed, this will not affect the functionality of the structure. It is worth remembering about 5 cm grooves.

When everything is ready, the wooden front door is assembled with our own hands and everything is checked if everything is smooth. At the same time, make sure that there are no cracks in the grooves, and at the same time the spike goes freely. If everything is fine, then the door is dismantled, and then assembled back, but with glue. Since this is an entrance door, the external environment will affect it. For this reason, better design additionally strengthen with dowels. They are 1 cm wide. Then we take a drill of the same diameter and drill holes for them at the joints. They must go through the spike. After that, the dowels are coated with glue and driven in.

When everything is dry, you can trim the joints and grind off the protruding parts of the dowels so that the surface is absolutely smooth.

Choosing the grooves

Now, to make a wooden door with your own hands, you have to work with a mill. We put on the so-called window cutter. She needs to select the material for half the thickness of the canvas, for installation in these grooves of the panels. The corners will turn out to be rounded, so they will need to be finished with a chisel.

We make panels

They are carved from solid pieces of wood; they must fit tightly into the grooves without cracks. One side of the panel is made flat, and on the other, you can even cut a pattern, everything is at the discretion of the master. Further, this part of the door is sanded for easier collection of all components of the leaf. The panels should be flush with the surface. It is impossible for any part of them to protrude, this can subsequently lead to deformation of the fiberboard sheet, with which the door will be knocked down.

When everything is in perfect position, you can fix the panels with self-tapping screws. They need to be screwed in at an angle from the side where the fiberboard will be. And, of course, not a single self-tapping screw should come out on the front part. Therefore, their size must be carefully selected. Now it remains to nail fiberboard sheet and can be covered with wood stain or varnish, whoever wants what. It describes in detail the manufacture of wooden doors with your own hands, step-by-step instruction.

Installing a wooden door

Initially, they decide how many hinges the door will be attached to. Then they carefully mark out so that everything fits together, and with the help of self-tapping screws, they fix the loops on the canvas and the box. Then to check how it opens and closes. If everything is done correctly, then, being fully open, the door will be in the same position as it was left. If there is the slightest bias, then it will open or close. Do-it-yourself adjustment and installation of wooden doors can be painstaking process, however, it needs to be done perfectly, because it depends on comfortable accommodation in the House.

Insulation of a wooden door

So that external noises do not bother, and the cold cannot pass through the canvas, it must be insulated. After all, if you cover only a wooden door with a protective layer, it will perform well its functions only in the warm season. And the sounds of the street will pass more. To improve the door, it is worth insulating it.

Markup

To insulate a wooden door with your own hands, you need to glue the half of it covered with fiberboard with foam rubber. This should be done in such a way as to leave one centimeter of space free from insulation along the entire edge of the canvas. We will subsequently nail the external material onto it. In the event that the foam rubber nevertheless crawled out of the frame, it must be cut off with a sharp knife.

The material for the upholstery can be different, usually leatherette is chosen, less often fabric. To do everything efficiently, it is better to use the services of an assistant. So the insulation of a wooden door with your own hands will be much faster and, most importantly, better. It is necessary to fasten the material with the help of an area a centimeter wide, which we did not seal with foam rubber. When the end is fixed, the material is leveled, and then work continues. The tension should be even to avoid creases.

When one part is done, go to the one that is opposite. To do this, one worker pulls the material, and the other fixes it with the same stapler. When the work is done, rollers must be nailed along the perimeter of the canvas, which will not give cold air and extraneous sounds from outside to enter the dwelling.

Making door rollers

Rolls are rolled out of the material with which the door is upholstered; they should be about a centimeter in thickness. Then they are nailed to the edges of the door using construction nails.

It is better to buy more material for upholstery, because it will stretch over the foam rubber as well. And also you will need to make rollers from it, so you need to carefully calculate everything.

Now we have considered everything related to the question of how to make wooden doors with our own hands, drawings, diagrams and subtleties in work. From the images it is easy to understand the whole principle of what parts the canvas consists of. It is not necessary to make the door of the same dimensions as in the drawings, because the openings and the frame are different. However, it will be much easier to create your project based on them.

Hinges

In order for the door to serve for a long time, you need to choose suitable hinges on which it will be attached. There are many types of them, but the most common are semi-hinged ones. Their design is simple, and if necessary, the owner can easily remove the door by lifting it up in the open position.

You can also hang the canvas using the hinge loops. They are similar to the first ones, only the axis is twisted in them. Such a door cannot be simply lifted to remove.

Despite the emergence of new, more modern materials, wood door panels continue to be appreciated and remain in demand. But our task is not to list the benefits wooden sashes, and tell you how to make a door yourself from boards at home. We hope this guide will help you to get around the only drawback of purchased products - the high cost.

Choosing the design of the door leaf

When making and installing doors on your own, it is worth observing the principle of expediency. For example, the entrance sash is made strong and massive, the interior sash is lighter and more delicate. That is, the choice of design and consumption of sawn timber depends on the purpose of the product.

There are 3 types of wooden canvases:

1. Made from solid wood (solid planks).
2. Paneled doors are assembled from individual parts cut from planks. The lamellas, fastened with glue, create a relief pattern with multidirectional wood fibers.
3. The budget option is a panel structure. It is a frame made of timber, upholstered with any suitable finishing- plywood, fiberboard, MDF or thin metal. Soundproofing is laid in the inner cavity.

This is what door leaves from boards look like.

The massive sash shown above in the photo is a canvas of planed boards in one size, reinforced with stiffeners. Depending on the place of installation, the door can be decorated with carved elements, sheathed with clapboard or artificially aged and varnished.

The scope of application of massive products is quite wide - the simplest structures are placed in a shed, cellar or. If the canvas is decorated and insulated properly, the door will fit perfectly at the entrance to a private house.

Standard paneled doors

Paneled doors are used as a second entrance door to an apartment, and are also installed in interior openings. V country house a blank canvas can be placed at the entrance to a technical room - a boiler room, a storage room, or a descent into the basement.

Reference. There is a combined type of paneled construction, where a box is formed from a wooden bar, and inserts (panels) are made of MDF or plastic panels that imitate wood fibers. Another design option is to insert transparent or frosted glass.

Panel (frame) doors are used everywhere, except for the entrance to the dwelling. The design is lightweight and easy to assemble. Advantages of panel boards:

• low price;
• the possibility of using various upholstery - fiberboard, thin OSB boards, laminate and iron sheets;
• sound insulation is laid in the cavity or hidden insulation is done.

Lumber harvesting

To make a simple panel door with your own hands, it is enough to find a bar 25-40 mm wide to assemble the frame. The quality and type of wood does not play a big role - spruce, pine and other materials available on the farm will do. Here it is important to choose an external decor - a cladding that hides the external defects of the frame.

When choosing materials for assembling a paneled or massive door, consider a few useful recommendations:

1. You need to know the shape and dimensions of the future sash, determined by the installed door frame.
2. Choose the wood species in accordance with the allocated budget. An important nuance - the wood must be dried, otherwise the homemade canvas will be skewed.
3. Check the curvature of the boards by placing them on a flat surface. Discard arched products.
4. The thickness of the boards for interior doors is 25-30 mm, entrance doors are 5-6 cm.
5. Do not forget to think over the option of finishing the slopes - prepare wooden platbands or buy ready-made kit made of plastic or MDF panels.

Reminder. Choosing lumber to fill arched openings, add a margin along the length of the boards for sawing.

In the process of procurement of materials, take care of buying all the necessary small things:

• door handles, latches and locks;
• at the entrance from the street, it is advisable to put a closer or a simple stopper;
• it is better to equip the balcony door with a ball lock;
• you will need to stick a sealant on the porches of street and bath linens;
• to close or a cellar, you need a latch or steel rings for a barn lock.

Sliding sash option for a barn or garage

A typical decoration for wooden swing doors is the application of 2-3 coats of varnish. You can choose a colorless composition or darkened to make a "antique" canvas. Be sure to buy any pre-treatment wood preservative.

We make doors from solid wood

It is easy to guess that the work will require a set of carpentry tools, shown in the photo. A good addition would be an electric planer, a hand router and a power saw. Measuring devices are required - a square, a tape measure and a level to check the plane.

A solid entrance wooden door, assembled and revetted with our own hands, will come out of grooved boards 5-6 cm thick. But since it is not always possible to cut spikes and grooves at the ends of the lumber at home, we will consider the technology for making doors from ordinary boards. They are combined into a one-piece structure using three trapezoidal cross-members.

The crossbeams are hammered into mating grooves of the same shape and serve as reliable stoppers for all elements. Thanks to this technique, the holders recessed into the grooves are half hidden and do not protrude from the back of the canvas. Canopies for door mounting are screwed to the same details.

Step by step, the assembly technology looks like this:

Advice. To prevent the boards from moving during operation, fix them to the table with clamps, laying a wooden plank on top.

Turn the finished canvas face up and carefully process the surface, achieving maximum smoothness and no drops. Then move on to inset locks, handles and awnings. Perform the design at your discretion - for example, cut out an unusual pattern with a router and varnish the surfaces. The back can be sheathed with chipboard and covered with dermantine.

Panel board assembly technology

Making frame doors is simple and profitable - few materials are consumed, and defects in wooden elements will be hidden by the outer cladding. And interior can actually be made up of uneven and cracked beams, the main thing is to clearly withstand the dimensions and make a solid frame.

The procedure for making a panel door looks like this:

Further cladding is made at your request. It is enough to cover the lining with two layers of varnish, the plywood should be finished with laminated fiberboard, plastic panels or other decorative material. How a simple panel door with foam insulation is made, see the video:

Manufacturing of paneled sashes

It is quite difficult to make a full-fledged paneled door at home. Since the elements are joined using grooves, spikes and various cutouts, woodworking equipment will be needed - a machine or a circular saw.

To reduce the cost of assembly, make a drawing of a simplified design with two large panels and contact the craftsmen who have the necessary machines. They will cut the required parts from the boards, and you will do the assembly yourself.

The technology is similar to the manufacture of frame fabric:

At the end, grind the finished canvas thoroughly and open it with varnish. If you want to darken (age) the wood, then it is better to perform the operation before installing the panels. This will avoid gaps and light streaks in the corners. See the next video for the assembly process of the simplest paneled door:

Conclusion

Without experience in joinery and good tools, you are unlikely to be able to assemble a flawless product. If the door looks unprepossessing, do not be discouraged - minor defects can be easily hidden with cladding. It is important to respect the dimensions and avoid skewing of the canvas - check the length of the diagonals several times during the manufacture of the frame. Do not forget to treat the wood with an antiseptic - this will extend the life of the product.

Despite the fact that today doors are made from a variety of modern materials, wood products are still the most in demand. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to a house or outbuildings, and they are also mounted on everything functional rooms baths. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental friendliness, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textured patterns.

To figure out how to make a door from boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to the elite ones, are made of boards, but the material can be of different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood species.

In addition, door leaves are divided into types according to their design, and in order to determine which one is more suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are.

Wooden doors can have several types of structures - paneled and massive, panel (hollow and solid) and frame.

Massive doors

Massive doors are made from thick grooved or planed boards, connected to each other in one plane and thus forming a flat surface. The resulting shield should have horizontal or inclined bridges, which will make the structure more rigid.

For massive doors, wood of different species and qualities is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if a massive entrance door is made, then for it you need to choose moderately dried, dense, high quality wood of expensive species, such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble textured pattern and dense structure. With appropriate processing, such a door will serve for a long time without deformation and damage by insects dangerous to wood.

A massive door can have different design- both uncomplicated, which is suitable for installation, say, in the steam room of a bath, and complex, with a relief design, suitable for entering a house or apartment.

For sauna doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing to consider when making door structure for wet rooms - it is thorough processing and water-repellent agents.

Massive doors can have their own design features, but one thing remains unchanged - this is the canvas, which should always be made of natural wood.

Paneled door

Paneled wooden doors are also made of boards or timber, but its glued version is more often used, which is made from individual wooden parts - lamellas. They are glued together, creating thick boards or beams.

Glued laminated timber serves as a rigid frame for the canvas - vertical and transverse elements, as well as mullions, are made of it. Fastened together individual elements earlier with the help of thorns, today pins are more often used for this. When making a door, you need to take into account the fact that the more crossbars are provided in the canvas, the stronger it will be. A kind of frames are formed from the timber, into which panels-panels are installed, made of thinner boards, MDF, covered with natural veneer, or plastic that imitates the textured pattern of wood. Panels usually have a thickness equal to ⅓ of the thickness of laminated veneer lumber. The panels are fixed in the frames using veneered or natural glazing beads, which give the paneled door aesthetic appearance by smoothing out the sharp edges of the frame.

Paneled doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design diagram, the main part of the door leaf is of a small thickness, therefore they are most often installed in the openings between rooms.

The paneled structure is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability to solid wood. Sometimes this type of door has an even higher cost than an array of doors. Pricing is based on what type of wood the boards and beams are made from and what veneer the paneled door material is covered with.

It should be noted that canvases are often paneled and completely made of natural wood, only made according to a similar constructive scheme.

Panel doors

Shield doors can be called budget option, since their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made from a cheaper material - low quality wood and fiberboard, faced with veneer or laminate. Qualitatively made panel structures have a completely aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is still lined with natural veneer, then sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.

Panel doors are solid, hollow and shallow. They differ in that in some, the inner space is completely filled with an unedged timber fastened together, the latter consist only of a strapping and external cladding and still others are partially filled.

A typical hollow panel door consists of two transverse - upper and lower, as well as side beams, which are sheathed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes horizontal and vertical cross members are installed inside the structure, as they give the structure additional rigidity. Such a door can already be called a frame door.

Small-hollow door leaf structures have different filling of the internal space, and various materials can be used for filling - it can be plywood, MDF boards, cardboard, shavings or foam.

Solid panel doors are those whose filling is a kind of shield made of non-edged or edged timber, tightly fastened together.

Schemes of panel structures of different occupancy are presented in the figures:

Panel door schemes - 1

A- solid construction;

B- small-hollow filling;

Panel door schemes - 2

V- filling voids with veneer;

G and D- shallow-hollow filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;

Panel door schemes - 3

E- filling with shavings;

F–Filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs;

Z- a panel partially filled with solid bars with a designated place for glass or plywood sheets.

Panel door schemes - 4

AND- filling part of the web with veneer;

TO and L- filling with plywood or wood-fiber elements;

M- filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs.

Panel door frame is veneered various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), fibreboard, plywood or veneer.

When facing boards with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally decorated with profiled linings.

• To obtain a high-quality panel door, the structure is clad with plywood made of linden or alder, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2 ÷ 3 mm. The material, made of alder and linden, does not deform, which creates a reliable basis for

Fixed on top of the glued layer finishing plywood from valuable wood species. The grain direction of the decorative plywood layer should be perpendicular to the material of the glued one.

Often on the glued layer, instead of plywood, natural veneer from expensive wood species is fixed. Its layers, and there can be 3 or 5 of them, are also laid perpendicular to each other.

• Sometimes a solid board made of glued timber is immediately formed with a veneer, it is applied in 5 ÷ 10 layers to create a general facing words of 2 ÷ 4 mm.

The end sides of the shield should be neat and solid, therefore, if the door is made without a frame, then even, well-processed bars are used for them, which in color and texture will correspond to the finish of the remaining planes.

The end bars are fastened to the shield with pins and glue.

This type of door, depending on the finish, can be a bathroom or utility rooms, as well as quality. However, it should be noted that panel doors have absolutely no protection, therefore they are not suitable for the role of entrance doors. Most often, they are used for this only as a temporary option.

Now that the designs of all types of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a particular case, and then proceed to preparatory work and manufacturing.

Tools for making doors

In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a stable large workbench table, on which all the elements will be assembled into a single canvas.

From the tools you need to prepare:

• Manual router - this device will help to make the door leaf smooth, cut out any holes and grooves, equalize the right angles of the structure, process the glazing bead and much more. If the goal is to make a door that looks professional, then this tool is indispensable.

• A plane for leveling the end sides of the door.
• Clamps for tightening the glued sheet.
• Hacksaw.
• Bow and hand saw.
• Chisels of different sizes.
• Rubber and regular hammer.
• Building level.
• Ruler, tape measure, folding rule and pencil.
• Sandpaper and sander.
• Screwdriver.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of doors, the following materials are required:

• Wood - its grade, quantity and dimensions are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
• Joiner's glue.
• Self-tapping screws of different lengths.

In addition, for each type of door, it will be necessary to prepare specific materials that will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door panels.

Lumber selection

It is imperative to know how to choose the right blanks for the canvas, otherwise the finished door may deform, and it will no longer be possible to fix this defect.

The main criteria for choosing wood are as follows:

• The type of wood is chosen according to the desire and financial capabilities.
• For doors, the so-called commercial wood is purchased, since it has a small number of knots, and if they are, then they are small in size and light in color.
• In order for the tree to "behave" well during processing and the period of operation of the doors, when purchasing the material, it must have a residual moisture content of 12 ÷ 15%. It is recommended to choose material dried in a special drying chamber. The wood treated in this way does not deform or dry out, since the chamber creates an optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
• When buying boards, they must be checked for evenness. To do this, they should be laid on a flat surface and try to connect to each other using “groove-thorn” locks. The boards should not be bent or driven.
• The thickness of the boards for the door can be 25 ÷ 50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - at the entrance or between rooms.
• Before starting work, it is recommended to walk on all surfaces of the boards grinder with fine-grained sandpaper. If this device is not there, then you can make a grinding device yourself from an ordinary wooden block, attaching sandpaper to it.

Making a massive door

Whichever model of solid board door is chosen, a board shield, which must be assembled correctly, will serve as the basis for it. Otherwise, the wood can "lead", and it will be impossible to operate such a structure.

A door from a solid board is made for installation between rooms or for installation at the entrance to an apartment, house and outbuildings. Naturally, the appearance of the product will differ in different situations.

• For the bath, the most simple construction, in which the board, assembled from planks, is fastened with transverse and diagonal elements.

In this drawing you can see different variants fastenings-strapping:

General view of the door;

I - a door with a Z-shaped strapping;

II - X-shaped strapping;

III - double Z-shaped strapping;

IV - double X-shaped strapping;

V - triple strapping.

For the entrance to the house or for installation in living quarters, the doors should have a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, the assembled shield is processed in a special way to achieve its perfect evenness and smoothness. Further, the marking of the selected relief pattern is applied to the canvas, and then a relief is cut out along it with the help of a router.

Illustration
	For the manufacture of a shield, grooved boards are taken that have a thorn-groove fastening, or not grooved. The thickness of the boards should be at least 25 mm, but if a door is made to enter an apartment or house, then a board is taken even with a thickness of 40 ÷ 60 mm. Doors for outbuildings or baths are most often made of non-tongue-and-groove boards using one of the straps shown above. For doors installed in residential premises, a high-quality grooved thick board is taken.
	Further, the prepared boards are marked out and sawn into the required segments.
	The next step from the board is going to the shield. In this case, you need to lay them in such a way that the pattern of the annual rings is directed in one direction. If grooved boards are taken for manufacturing, then the spike is carefully cut from the extreme element of the shield, and the end is carefully processed. When assembling the panel, the grooved boards are assembled using both the groove-tenon joint and wood glue. Unspun - just stick together.
	Work should be carried out on a large work table - a workbench, where it is possible to place the door leaf completely and lay it perfectly evenly.
	The assembled and glued panel of the canvas is pressed in several places with clamps and left to dry.
	The finished dry panel is processed with a router until it is perfectly smooth. At the same time, the joints between the boards become almost invisible.
	It should be noted that, if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is glued perpendicular to the previous one, and the entire resulting structure is clamped into clamps. The result is a rather heavy, powerful shield with a thickness suitable for installation at the entrance to a house or apartment. Especially often, a door is made in this way, on which some kind of relief pattern will later be milled or carved.
	Next, you need to fasten the shield with one of the types of strapping. The simplest of them are two or three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, parts are prepared, the length of which will be equal to the width of the manufactured board. Their possible shapes and sizes are shown in the figure on the left. This configuration must be observed for easy entry of the cross member into the groove that will be cut for it in the door leaf.
	Then, on the door leaf, a marking is made of the places where the grooves for the crossbars will be cut. Ready-made transverse elements are applied to them and outlined with a simple pencil. In addition, it is immediately necessary to determine and mark the depth to which the groove will be selected in the boards of the shield. The indentation can be ⅓ or ½ of the board thickness.
	According to the marks made on the shield, the milling cutter cuts out transverse grooves of the desired shape and size. The cutter is able to make their surfaces perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will fit into their "nests" quite easily, but very tightly. Additionally, the groove is coated with wood glue. You can also cut a groove manually - first, cuts are made at the desired angle, and then the wood is selected with a chisel.
	When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them from one side and then gradually pushed inward using a rubber mallet or mallet.
	When assembled, the canvas, reinforced with crossbars, will look something like this.
	If you plan to decorate the finished shield with some kind of embossed pattern, then its contour should first be applied to the surface with a pencil using a template. After that, cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed on the hand router, and the selected pattern is cut out without haste.
	The finished canvas should be treated with antiseptic agents. If the door is planned to be installed at the entrance of the house and, therefore, will be influenced by external factors, then in addition to an antiseptic, water-repellent compounds should also be used. When making a door to enter an apartment, it is recommended to cover the wood with fire retardants.
	If there is a desire to change the color of the canvas, to make the door more "noble" or artificially "age" it, then the staining technology can be used for this. Wood stain is covered in one or several layers, achieving the desired darkening of the texture. After the composition has dried, the doors can be covered in several layers with varnish.
	On the finished door leaf and door frame, markings are made for installing the selected model of hinged hinges. Then the hinges are mounted in the marked places.
	The next step is to mark the location of the lock on the canvas and on the door frame, after which it is cut into the structure and the handle is installed. In the last step, the door is hung in the doorway and an exact finishing fit is carried out, if necessary.

Panel door manufacturing

It is not difficult to make a panel door yourself. The main thing is to have all the materials at hand, a solid tool, to withstand all sizes, to keep the edges even and straightness of the corners. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, as well as for one made of a solid board, it is necessary to make a panel, only it can consist of low quality wood and processing. If it is planned to make a finely filled canvas, then the same bars are used, but they are fastened not into a solid surface, but with gaps.

Based on the description of the structure, it can be made in three ways:

• The first is that first a frame frame (strapping) of the required size is assembled, and then its internal space is filled in whole or in part, that is, a solid or small-filled shield is created inside the frame.
• The shield can be made separately, and then it must be fixed in the frame, and then sheathed with finishing material.
• The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, the shield is first made, and then it is sheathed with a frame and cladding.

Each of the methods has its pros and cons, and the master chooses which one to choose on his own. Below, for example, the first embodiment of the door manufacturing will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	So, first, the frame (strapping) of the structure is made, which will determine the size of the canvas. For it, it is necessary to prepare a bar with a section of approximately 30 × 120 mm, which is cut to the size of the future canvas (length and width).
	Having prepared the timber, it is necessary to select the connection that will be used at the corners. There are several types of connections, but the simplest one can be called the one that is called "half-tree". The grooves are first marked on the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very precisely, and then they are easily selected using a conventional hand saw and chisel. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the timber. The grooves are coated with glue and connected at the corners, and they must be checked with a building angle, since the bars must be perfectly perpendicular. When joining the timber, the frame must lie on a hard, even surface, and after joining the corners, it is left to dry on the same table without moving.
	After the glue on the joints dries, they must be fastened with pins, for which through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled. Then glue-treated pins are carefully driven into them.
	One side of the frame must be veneered with one of the selected materials immediately after fastening and drying the frame - it can be plywood, as described above, but more often, for reasons of economy, fiberboard is chosen. Cut by the right size a sheet of material is laid on a flat table, then a frame is laid on it and a marking of its location is made on the facing material. After that, the frame is removed, and wood glue is thickly applied to the marked stripes. The frame is then returned to its place and firmly pressed against the cladding material. In this position, under the press, the entire structure should dry well. It should be noted that very often, for the rigidity of the frame structure, one or two crossbars are mounted between its side rails.
	Further, the inner space of the frame is filled with one of the selected filler materials - it can be timber, MDF pieces or other mentioned waste from the woodworking industry, or low quality wood. So, in principle, all panel structures are made, and they differ only in the type of filling. All filling elements are glued to each other, and also glued to the bottom sheet of facing material and frame beams. Before covering the entire structure with cladding on top, let the glue dry well.
	This diagram shows a frame-panel structure, and inserts are clearly visible on it, which are usually installed in hollow and shallow-hollow versions. These elements are designed for rigid insertion of the lock or doorknob.
	While the glue dries, you need to prepare the material for the cladding. outside. For this, the perimeter of the frame is measured and one or two canvases of the finishing material are cut out according to these dimensions. If you plan to glue two sheets, then first a regular fiberboard is glued, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or veneer plywood. It is advisable to send the door leaf under a press, which can be built independently, for example, by closing the leaf plastic wrap, then lay gypsum boards on top of it.
	If desired, instead of a laminated sheet for sheathing, you can use slats made of natural wood, but they will have to be screwed to the frame by drilling holes "under the sweep" in order to drown the caps of the screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue. When it dries, the surface should be sanded.
	Then, all the corner parts and ends of the door leaf must be processed using a router - only then the door will look high-quality and neat. A lock or latch handle is cut into the finished door leaf, and the hinges are also fixed. Finally, the door is hung in the door frame.

It should be noted that frame doors are made in the same way - their internal space is additionally reinforced with a frame made of timber or boards. But, before making a frame door, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.

Paneled door manufacturing

Paneled doors have the most complex design, and you cannot do without special carpentry tools and stable skills in working with them, since the elements require special processing.

Paneled doors consist of several parts, which can be made of solid boards or laminated veneer lumber and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly in price. You can find many different models on sale, but for self-made in the absence of significant experience in the art of carpentry, it is best to choose the simplest option.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first thing to do when deciding to make a paneled door is to draw up a drawing of the future structure and put down the dimensions of each of the parts on it. This drawing shows a door with four panels: a) general form doors; b) spike nodal joints of the upper, middle and lower crossbars: 1- racks; 2- upper cross member; 3-lock cross member; 4- lower cross member; 5- upper centerpiece; 6 - lower centerpiece; 7- top panel; 8 - lower panel; 9 - key; 10 - groove.
	To make a frame, you will need a beam - it can be made from a solid board or from a glued beam. It will be somewhat more difficult to work with the latter, since due to the presence of glue in its structure, it has greater rigidity. A beam will be needed for vertical elements, crossbars and a centerpiece. The timber must be processed with a milling cutter, making grooves on one of its sides. And sometimes they immediately make curly cuts, which will replace the glazing bead. If you plan to use glazing beads, then the surfaces around the groove must be left flat.
	Then, you need to work on the crossbars by cutting out the connecting spikes on both sides and processing all the edges with a router. On the ends of the crossbars, grooves are made for installing panels and mullions in them. The end face of the upper and lower cross members, which will come out on the end face of the door, remains flat and solid.
	By the size of the spikes on the crossbars, slots are made in the vertical beams for assembling the door. Before making them, the bars are carefully marked.
	For the manufacture of panels, which will be installed in the grooves of the crossbars and beams, you will need plywood, board or chipboard. It should be noted that all or some of the panels can be replaced with glass. If glass is chosen, then glazing beads will also be required, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief frame for them.
	Panels can have an absolutely flat plane, and after installation in the cut-out grooves, they are framed with figured cut-out glazing bead. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter with a milling cutter, with which you can achieve the desired relief configuration. If the second option is chosen, then plywood or boards are purchased for their manufacture, having a thickness greater than for flat panels - it can be 20 ÷ 25 mm. The edges of the panel are milled so that their thickness is 1 ÷ 2 mm less than the grooves cut in the transverse and vertical beams, since it must freely enter them.
	All prepared door elements are treated with antiseptic compounds and dried.
	Before assembly, you need to check all the elements again and, if necessary, additional markup. The assembly of all parts into a single canvas is carried out on the table, in a horizontal position. All thorns, before installation in the grooves, are coated with wood glue.
	The assembly of the canvas is carried out in the following sequence: - In the grooves of one of the vertical beams, according to the markings, all parts are glued in - crossbars and panels. - Next, mullions are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted in the crossbars and middle panels. - After that, the remaining vertical bar is glued in.
	- Framing glazing beads are glued last. If necessary, use a rubber hammer or wooden mallet. After that, the canvas is neatly knocked out from all sides, and its corners are checked with a building corner. Then, it is squeezed with clamps until it dries.
	On the finished door leaf, markings are made for installing hardware elements - hinges and a lock or just a door handle. After that, the parts are installed for fitting on the canvas, but they are not fixed - they are mounted only after final finishing surface.
	The door can be finished with acrylic lacquers or water-based paints. If necessary, the surface of the door can be made darker, and thereby emphasize the beauty of the textured wood pattern. For this, a stain is used, which can be applied in one or more layers. From above, the soaked wood can be coated with colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating dries out, fittings are installed.

The position of the loops is approximately as shown in this diagram. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the curtain in the door frame.

These parameters, in principle, are identical for the installation of any type of canvases in the door frame.

In conclusion, it must be said that making a wooden door yourself, without experience in carpentry, quite difficult. Moreover, it is practically impossible to do without special tools, which not everyone has in their home "arsenal". Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, then it is best to order it from a professional craftsman or buy a ready-made version.

Video: master class on making a paneled door from a solid wood

But if, nevertheless, it is decided to experiment or there is an insistent desire to learn how to make always popular joinery, then you must definitely purchase a high-quality tool, both manual and electric (including, of course, a router with a set of cutters) and learn how to work with it. Only after everything starts to work out well, you can try to make individual parts. In any case, if there is a desire to do such work, then you need to try your hand.

Find out how to do it yourself from the new article on our portal.