Correct planting and care of remontant strawberries. Growing remontant strawberries from seeds

Repairing strawberry varieties are in demand among all lovers of this plant. This is due to the ability to get several harvests per year from one bush. The first harvest in this case will ripen in July. The largest harvest can be obtained at the end of summer - it is at this time that 60 to 90% of the berries fall. Such strawberries are easily grown on the balcony, in flowerpots, and can be proper care fruit all year round at home.

What is a remontant strawberry, how is it different from others?

Repairability is the ability of some plants to bloom and produce crops several times a year. After the first fruit ripening, flower buds are tied again. Such bushes often have a weaker leaf system, but the berries are very large.

Peculiarities! If the second crop is more important, it is worth sacrificing the first. To do this, it is enough to cut the first peduncles. This technique will preserve the ability of the bush for abundant fruiting at the end of summer.

Repaired strawberries are grown in greenhouses, and even on the balcony. So you can get abundant and constant fruiting even from 2 - 3 bushes growing in pots.

Features of remontant garden strawberries

  • Fruits are set not only on maternal, but also on young plants;
  • Most varieties are large-fruited (all fruits from 50 to 100 grams);
  • Rapid aging of the bushes;
  • Some large-fruited varieties the berries may become smaller next year.

To ensure constant fruiting throughout the season, it is worth combining remontant and regular varieties.

Photo of a renovated strawberry

Queen Elizabeth 2

Alexandri


Baron Solemacher



Types of remontant strawberries

Repairability garden strawberry directly depends on the time when buds are laid on the bushes. More precisely, on the length of daylight hours. Most varieties set buds in the fall. At this time, daylight hours are shortened. In remontant varieties, flower buds form regardless of the length of daylight hours. In the same year, by the end of summer, the bushes bear fruit for the second time.

Reference! Repaired strawberries form flower buds even during neutral daylight hours. These are the so-called NSD varieties.

For remontant varieties, the care steps should be based on an altered growing season.

Long daylight hours


Long-day repair strawberries form flower buds at 16 hours of daylight.

This happens in mid-May - early June. At this time, the formation of the ovary occurs simultaneously.

It is such a strawberry that is capable of giving 2 harvests. The first fruiting occurs in June, and the second at the end of summer.

Attention! During the second harvest, DSD varieties are capable of giving up to 90% of the annual harvest. This is possible if the bushes are mature and strong.

It is worth remembering that with each subsequent season, the yield of plants decreases... This will require frequent renewal of the bushes for young and strong ones.

Short daylight hours

These are varieties in which flower buds are laid in the fall. This allows you to get the harvest of early fruits in June. It is easy to propagate as mature shrubs have many mustaches. But, as a rule, they are less common than remontant varieties.

Mustache and no mustache

By the method of reproduction, remontant strawberries are divided into:

  • With a mustache;
  • No mustache (or mustacheless varieties).

The most convenient way to reproduce strawberries with a mustache. Begins to produce crops within a few months after planting. Whiskerless strawberries are less common as they can only be propagated by seed.

Peculiarities! Mustacheless varieties are more resistant to the effects of diseases and insects. They look neat in the garden because they don't grow.

Landing


Features of growing remontant varieties:

  1. For planting, it is best to choose open, sunny areas;
  2. Fertile, well-loosened soil.

Grown by pre-sowing seedlings. This is done in February or early March. In May, after the risk of late frosts disappears, the mature seedlings can be planted in open ground.

Peculiarities! To get a good harvest, the land on the site must be prepared in the fall. Mineral and organic fertilizers, after which they dig deeply.

Reproduction of remontant strawberries

To keep as long as possible beneficial features remontant strawberry varieties, mustache propagation is best suited. But this is not always possible, since some varieties do not have a mustache at all. The only way to get young plants is to grow seedlings.

Seeds


This is the most difficult way to grow repair strawberries... But it allows you to get a large number of young and healthy bushes.

In the case of alpine, or beardless garden strawberries, this is practically a single breeding method.

For propagation by seeds, it is worth collecting the largest and sweetest berries of the variety you like. Seeds can be obtained from them, which are planted for seedlings in late February or early March.

Mustache


Whisker propagation produces many young plants during the season.

This is especially important for remontant varieties that age quickly and require replacement.

To do this, you need to carefully monitor the appearance of outlets. Only 2 - 3 of them are left on the mustache, as close as possible to the mother bush.

Attention! Weak whiskers need to be removed in time, since they weaken an actively fruiting plant.

In other ways

There is also another method of vegetative propagation of remontant strawberries. This could be the division of the bushes. It is used only when you need to urgently obtain seed. Only strong and healthy bushes can be used for propagation.

Attention! This propagation method is not suitable for all remontant varieties.

Care

Abundant fruiting 2 times a season drains the bushes. Because of this, plants need extra care. It should be started in early spring, after the snow melts. You need to remove the old mulch and carefully examine the beds. If there are exposed fibrous roots, they need to be earthed. Then loosen the soil in the area and mulch it with fine sawdust.

Watering


Garden strawberries need abundant watering throughout the growing season.

The top layer of the soil must be kept constantly moist, without dried out soil "crust".

It is best to pour water into the grooves between the rows. Alternatively, you can water the plants with a hose to simulate rain.

Transfer



A transplant in the fall is especially important for large-fruited varieties.

After 1 - 2 years, depletion occurs, as a result of which the berries become smaller. Frequent movement to a new site will also prevent pests living in the ground from accumulating.

Peculiarities: It is advisable to transplant before the beginning of September. This will allow the bushes to fully prepare for wintering.

For this:

  1. Dig the area to the depth of the shovel bayonet, remove all the roots of weeds;
  2. Add 1 bucket of humus and 30 grams of phosphorus fertilizer to the ground for square meter;
  3. Borrow with a rake and leave the site for 14 days;
  4. Mark the area, and then dig holes up to 20 centimeters deep;
  5. Transfer the plants to the holes by transshipment, cover with earth;
  6. Mulch the bed with sawdust.

After that, the bed with the transplanted plants is watered abundantly.

Top dressing


Bushes of remontant varieties are greatly weakened by abundant fruiting during the season. To remedy the situation, a liquid top dressing is used:

  • Urea;
  • Bird droppings;
  • Slurry.

It is brought in in early June, before flowering. The dosage of the drug is 10 liters per 1 square meter.

Wintering


Preparing for winter includes:

  1. Trimming dry foliage and mustache;
  2. Mulching with straw, peat or dry leaves.

DSD varieties are often exposed to early frosts. This leads to the loss of part of the crop. If there is a risk of an early cold snap in September, they are grown under covering material. It is best to use spunbond for this. Bushes can be watered without removing the shelter.

Features of growing in the open field

Repaired strawberries have their own special agrotechnical conditions:

  • Particularly sensitive to soil quality and watering;
  • The growth cycle of remontant varieties is maximum 2-3 years;
  • The best neighbors for strawberries are carrots, garlic, peas, lettuce, radishes, and beans.

It is undesirable to plant remontant varieties of garden strawberries next to potatoes, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers.

Peculiarities! Garlic planted between strawberry beds will save the harvest from slugs or snails.

Popular varieties

The most common varieties of remontant strawberries are:


There are also hybrid varieties, intended for cultivation in greenhouses or on the balcony.

Why doesn't it bloom and bear fruit?

But what if the strawberry does not bear fruit? These may be the following reasons:

  1. Plant degeneration... After a maximum of 3 years, the plants stop blooming. This leads to the need to renew the bushes every 2 to 3 years.
  2. Too late open field transplant in autumn. This leads to the fact that the plant does not have time to adapt. The next year the flowering will be very weak, and the berries will be small;
  3. Excessive burrowing into the ground during planting. This leads to a sharp decrease in the number of berries;
  4. Lack of nitrogenous compounds. Leads to weakening of leaves. Effective prevention in this case is regular watering. aqueous solution ammonia;
  5. Lack of sunlight. This leads to a weakening of the bushes, which means a decrease in yield.

Another one common reason- these are late frosts in May. To avoid this trouble, you need to cover the beds with foil or spunbond.

Strawberries on the balcony and windowsill all year round

For growing on the balcony, remontant varieties are best suited.

This allows you to get big harvest with 2 - 3 bushes. Climbing and large-fruited varieties are ideal for this.

They not only bear fruit abundantly, but also look good. Growing remontant strawberries consists of the following stages:

  1. Sowing seeds for seedlings. To do this, you can use a ready-made nutritional formula or prepare it yourself. Seeds are sown in boxes with it. After the appearance of 2 - 3 leaves, the seedlings dive.
  2. Landing in a permanent place. Fortified seedlings are transplanted into hanging planters, baskets or boxes.

Care is almost the same as outdoors. In October - November, pots or baskets can be left on the glassed-in, warm balcony. In the self-care program, only moderate watering, no need to feed. This will provide the plant with adequate rest during the dormant period and a good harvest for next year.

Diseases and pests


Most frequent illnesses garden strawberries:

  • Powdery mildew;
  • Black rot;
  • Gray and white rot;
  • Root rot;
  • Withering;
  • Mottling;
  • Mosaic.

Insects are another problem:


Timely prevention becomes the best measure of control.

It includes replanting shrubs regularly and planting plants that smell unpleasant to insects next to beds. Also, severely affected plants are removed to avoid spreading the problem.

Conclusion

Repaired strawberries are able to bear fruit all season - from May to October. But this rate greatly weakens the bushes, which is why these varieties require especially careful maintenance. The life cycle of remontant bushes is rather short. It does not exceed 2 - 3 years, and some bushes die immediately after harvest.

Useful video

Find out more about remontant strawberries in the video below:


Growing remontant strawberries has its own rules and nuances. Caring for her requires a competent approach and constant work. All efforts will pay off by the fact that the berries can be picked several times a year, and the bushes will not lose the ability to bear fruit for 3-4 years, which is considered a very high indicator.

Types of remontant strawberries

Repairing strawberries can be grouped into several types.

  • Long Day Varieties (LDS)- this group includes those that form flowers and set berries only when daylight hours are set at least 10 hours. The first flowers and ovaries appear in mid-June, and the berries become ripe in late June - early July. The second wave of flowering occurs in mid-August, and berries can be harvested most of September. The berries are large, the pulp is aromatic and sweet. The disadvantage of this kind of strawberry is that it is very depleted over the course of a year, because of this it winters badly, and sometimes requires a complete renewal in the next season. Caring for her consists in constant feeding and control over the growth of the mustache.
  • Varieties of neutral daylight hours (NDM)- these varieties bear fruit no matter how long the day is. On one plantation, you can see flowers, ovaries, green and red berries at the same time. This type of strawberry is more adapted to fruiting all year round, and if the care is regular, then a crop can be harvested from one bush for at least three years. The main modern varieties belong to this particular type of strawberry.

Strawberries also differ in that some varieties produce mustaches, while others do not. In the former, reproduction can occur due to the separation and transplantation of rosettes formed at the ends of the whiskers. The latter reproduce by dividing the bushes, on which several divisions are formed with a separate growth point.

The varieties of strawberries that form a mustache also differ from each other: in some, most of the berries are tied on mother plants, while in others, on daughter rosettes. Care for these varieties is different - some have the whiskers removed, which increases fruiting, while others do not.

When planting remontant strawberries, one must responsibly approach the choice of a variety, take into account all its features, so as not to make mistakes in cultivation and care.

Reproduction methods of remontant strawberries

There are several ways to propagate remontant strawberries:

  • seeds;
  • rosettes formed on the whiskers that the mother plant produces;
  • dividing the bush (more often used in those varieties that do not have a mustache).

The method of propagation by seeds is more laborious, and you can not wait for the berries next year. But it is suitable if you want to plant a new variety on the site.

Reproduction by a mustache and dividing the bush is effective, it allows you to quickly rejuvenate the garden bed completely, plant bushes in places where the strawberries have not wintered, and get a harvest already this year.

To pick berries all year round, it is recommended to plant several types of strawberries in one area: the usual one, which bears fruit in early summer, varieties of the NSD group and several bushes of the DSD group. The berries will be on your table from the first days of June until the end of September.

Seed propagation

When propagating remontant strawberries by seeds, they are used. The time of sowing seeds is February or the first days of March.

You can choose a later date, but then the seedlings will have to be planted in the summer, and in hot weather, painstaking care will be required: frequent watering, protection from the scorching sun, spraying. The survival rate of seedlings will not be one hundred percent.

If you were late with sowing seeds in February, then it is better to grow seedlings in the summer, and plant them in the garden in early September, but not later.

Sowing seeds

The seeds are sown in loose moist soil, sprinkled with dry earth and covered with cellophane. Placed on a sunny windowsill - the place should be warm. At a temperature of about + 20 °, the first shoots will appear in three weeks.

The cellophane is immediately removed, the container with the seedlings is transferred to a cooler place, but the lighting should be bright. It is advisable to install additional lighting, then the bushes will not stretch out.

Seedling care

Seedling care is simple:

  • watering;
  • lighting control - it must be at least 10 hours a day;
  • airing the room.

At this stage, the strawberry grows slowly, the pick is carried out no earlier than two months later.

When the seedlings have 4-5 true leaves, it is necessary to transplant them into separate cups. For good development the root system has enough volume of a glass of 200 ml.

When transplanting, seedlings should not be deepened. The growth point should be at ground level.

After the pick, care for the seedlings should continue in the same way as before.

Landing on the garden

Young strawberries are planted on the garden bed when the weather is stable and warm - without night frosts and cold morning fogs. V middle lane this time falls in mid-May, in more northern regions - at the beginning of June.

Before planting, be sure to train strawberries to sunbeams... They start with a few hours, increase the hardening time every day.

When transplanting, it is necessary to ensure that the center of the bush (heart) is not buried. He also should not rise above ground level, because this will lead to the fact that the roots dry out and the seedling will die.

With spring planting, berries this year can set, but only closer to autumn.

Planting of bushes is carried out according to the scheme of 25x25 cm in a checkerboard pattern, while only 4 rows of strawberries are possible on one bed.

Can be planted in rows in two lines. 20 cm is left between the bushes in the line, and 60 cm between the rows.

Mustache reproduction

After the strawberries bear fruit for the first time in a season, the most powerful mustache is left, and all the rest are cut off. When several outlets are formed on the whiskers, the largest one is chosen, which is usually closer to the mother plant. All others are removed so that they do not take away some of the nutrients.

When roots appear on the sockets, they are buried in the ground, but they are not separated from the main bush. This can be done only in August, two weeks before the transfer to a permanent place.

At autumn transplant young bushes quickly take root and adapt to new conditions. Berries are formed on them the next summer, and harvesting takes place all year round without interruption.

Dividing strawberry bushes

For division, a large healthy bush is chosen, in which several divisions with separate growth points are noticeably visible. It is advisable that the strawberries are 2 or 3 years old. The bush is carefully dug up and divided using a sharp, clean knife. Those parts that have good roots are transplanted to a new place - at least three pieces.

When dividing a bush, berries are formed on it the next year, regardless of what time of the year the division was carried out.

Site selection and preparation of the garden

In order for the yield to be high all year round, and caring for strawberries is not burdensome, you need to choose a suitable place for it. Strawberries prefer loose, light soils that include sand. The soil is preferable slightly acidic or neutral. The site should be illuminated by the sun all day. On heavy, highly acidic soils, strawberries will not grow, even if proper care is taken.

Although strawberries are a moisture-loving plant and the greatest number of ovaries is formed with sufficient watering, it does not tolerate stagnant water and dies.

A place for strawberries is prepared in advance. If planting is planned in the spring, then the bed is prepared in the fall, if the seedlings are planted in September, then the garden must be taken care of in May:

  1. the garden bed is cleared of weeds, their roots are selected;
  2. organic fertilizers are applied: for 1 m 2, one bucket of well-rotted manure or decomposed compost and half a bucket of ash are enough;
  3. digging is carried out on a full bayonet of a shovel;
  4. so that weeds do not grow on the garden in summer, it is covered with black agrofibre and left so until planting begins.

15-20 days before planting is planned, a complex of mineral fertilizers is applied. You can buy ready-made, or you can cook it yourself using only two components

  • potassium sulfate - 1 tablespoon;
  • superphosphate - 2 tablespoons.

Repairing Strawberry Care

Caring for a remontant strawberry is more laborious than for a regular one. It includes many mandatory activities.

  • Frequent watering to keep the soil moist.
  • Loosening the soil as soon as it dries a little after watering.
  • Removal of whiskers in the event that berries do not form on them and reproduction by daughter outlets is not planned.
  • Mulching with hay, straw, cut grass, sawdust or pine needles will reduce the frequency of watering, the need for loosening will disappear, and the berries will not be splashed with earth after rains.
  • In order for the remontant strawberry to bear fruit all year round, it must be fed frequently. Fertilizers are applied after the first harvest, and the next time - when new flower stalks appear. Top dressing with infusion of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20) has proven itself well.
  • In remontant strawberries, foliage is not removed after the first fruiting. Cut off only those leaves that have begun to dry out, become stained or strongly thicken the plantings.
  • The leaves are cut in the fall after the last berries are harvested and the foliage has begun to dry out. In regions with cold winters, it is better to transfer this procedure to spring and remove the leaves after the last snow has melted.
  • In cold winters, it is advisable to cover the beds with white agrofibre, but it must be removed at the first warming.

Output

Repaired strawberries with competent constant care bears fruit regularly, but its life does not exceed three years, and planting requires renewal. Autumn is best suited for planting, because at this time most of the seedlings take root, and in the next season, in the second half of summer, you can already pick berries.

On French the word "remontant" means "to rise again" or "bloom again." Remontant varieties of berries are distinguished by their ability to bloom and delight with fruits throughout the season. This property is inherent in raspberries, strawberries, strawberries and even citrus crops... Gardeners have a special demand for remontant strawberries, which bear fruit twice during the growing season. And here they are easy to understand: who does not like the double harvest of your favorite berry?

Strawberries of this variety differ from others in that after the first fruiting, buds are laid and new berries are tied, which will become the next full-fledged harvest. But nothing happens just like that. Due to their fertility, remontant strawberries place higher demands on self-care, soil quality and watering, which must be done more often than ordinary ones. garden strawberry... Nevertheless, if we calculate the average number of berries from one bush, then the remontant strawberry loses to the more traditional garden strawberry.

But as practice shows, the desire to harvest strawberries out of season among gardeners is irresistible, so they are ready to lovingly care for remontant strawberries. Growing this variety can provide the owner with a strawberry harvest from mid-spring to late autumn.

Repair strawberries, when compared to garden strawberries, have weaker foliage and smaller berries.

The reason for this is the overload of the crop, because the plant lends itself to serious stress, bringing the crop twice a season. Judging by the observations, the first batch of fruits brought out turns out to be much less productive than the next. Usually the ratio is between 30 and 70%, with 30% being the first crop.

It also happens that some of the bushes of this strawberry die after the first batch of the harvest. At best conditions a bush of remontant strawberries can last 3 years.

In order for the second crop to be as rich as possible, it is necessary to be able to correctly limit the original. For this purpose, the peduncles are pruned.

How to plant repair strawberries

People who are attracted to the cultivation of remontant strawberries should be aware that planting and maintenance is done in a specific way.

As usual, the first step is to choose the variety you want. This can only be done by sampling the berries, so you should grow several at once, and then make the final choice.

For planting remontant strawberries, the most suitable is the soil used for growing vegetables. To prepare such soil, it is necessary to add 750 ml of water to 1 kg of land mixture, and then mix thoroughly (there should not be any lumps), then its moisture content will be 70-80%.

The next step is to fill a dense container (10-15 cm in diameter) with pre-prepared soil; about 3 cm of space must be left on top.

Strawberry seeds are scattered on top, then sprinkle with dry earth and spray with water from a spray bottle. To get as many sprouts as possible, the seeds must be exposed to sunlight.

The containers on top must be covered with a transparent polyethylene film and placed in a warm place. At the end of 3 weeks, the first shoots will show themselves, they require periodic watering.

It is customary to plant seedlings of remontant strawberries on loosened and fertilized beds already cleared of weeds, loosened and fertilized in early May. This is done as follows: a hole is dug in the garden bed, it is watered with water, the roots are sprinkled with a special preparation and planted in the hole. The soil near the seedlings should be well compacted.

Caring for Blooming Strawberries

Growing remontant strawberries involves some simple steps. For example, a grower needs to know when to prune and how to care for remontant strawberries. But in order to provide the roots with the much-needed air exchange, you should constantly loosen the soil near the bushes. You need to add earth periodically so that the roots are not exposed. This variety of strawberries must be watered not only with a watering can, but also with a ladle.

When the bushes are in bloom, they must be fertilized with minerals intended for strawberries and infusion from bird droppings.

It is recommended to constantly weed out the weeds. If berries are found lying on the ground, they must be lifted using a special wire support. To achieve an increase in the size of the berries, the regular breakage of the antennae helps.

If aphids are found on strawberries, they are fought with a special solution, the ingredients of which are a few cloves of garlic and 3 liters of water. Such a solution must be insisted for a week, after which the bushes are processed through a spray bottle.

To get rid of unnecessary attention to your wasp berries, place cups with sweet compote around.

When planting is carried out in the fall, it is highly discouraged to tear off the antennae of the first order from the bushes. Instead, they should be rooted in disposable plastic cups filled with earth. Cups are collected at the end of the season, at the same time they are separated from the mother plant and planted in the garden. The distance between the bushes should be about 20 cm. You need to water them quite a bit. Repaired strawberries should survive the first frosts, after which all the leaves from the bushes are cut off, and the bushes themselves are covered with something non-woven.

This type of berries differs from the usual fruit budding time: in traditional varieties, they are set during a short daylight hours, and in remontant ones, during a neutral or long day. This explains the ability of such strawberries to bear fruit twice a season - in July and August / September. At the same time, the second harvest, as a rule, is more abundant than the first, and accounts for 60-90% of the total number of berries from the bush per season.

What is a remontant strawberry

The type of plants capable of "re-flowering" is distinguished by a rich yield, and this feature distinguishes them from ordinary varieties. Simple strawberry inflorescences are formed in late summer and early autumn. Repaired varieties are able to lay inflorescences with long and neutral daylight hours. The repairing strawberry DSD (for long daylight hours) gives the first harvest in July, and the second in August or the beginning of the autumn season. At the same time, the plants have a large load, therefore, after harvesting the fruits, half of them die.

It is typical for remontant plants to form ovaries on both mother and young bushes, formed by rooting antennae. On a mulch site, rooting does not occur by itself. For this purpose, holes should be punched in the film for the appendages. One more distinctive feature The size of the berries is the remontability: depending on the variety, the weight of the berries ranges from 20 to 75 g, and in rare cases the fruits even reach 100 grams.

Views

To determine which kind of remontant strawberry suits you best, you need to determine what you expect from the plant. Some gardeners are interested in the size of the berries, others in the taste, and still others in the ability of the bushes to form a mustache (they can be used to propagate the variety). The list of the best remontant types of culture includes the following:

Planting multi-colored varieties is best in areas where crops such as parsley, carrots, garlic, radishes, beets, or legumes used to grow. It is not recommended to grow remontant strawberries next to raspberries or in the soil after cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes. The landing area should be well lit, have a flat surface without bumps and grooves. It is not recommended to plant the plant in the lowlands.

It is optimal if the soil is loamy or sandy loam. Peat soil, like sod-podzolic soil, is not suitable for this culture. The land for planting should be neutral or low acidity, while it is better to prepare the soil in advance: if the planting is planned for the spring, preparatory work is carried out in the fall. The soil is prepared from spring or summer when planting a plant in the fall.

First of all, the earth is dug up with a pitchfork and leveled with a rake. When digging, it is important to remove the roots. weed and apply fertilizers (compost, humus) in the amount of 1 bucket per square meter of the plot. In addition, the soil is enriched with wood ash (5 kg per 10 sq. M). After preparatory work the soil is left alone. A month before planting the bushes, potassium sulfate with superphosphate (1: 2) is introduced into the ground. After feeding, the site is dug up again.

Seedling preparation

Seedlings are planted in a container of dense material with a diameter of about 10-15 cm. Such a container is filled with pre-prepared soil. Leave about 3 cm on top free space... Then the seeds of the plant are scattered on the ground and covered with a thin layer of dry soil. Next, you need to irrigate the ground with a spray bottle. To grow remontant strawberries, certain conditions must be observed that are as close to natural as possible.

To germinate, seeds need lighting and ventilation. If they are open to sunlight, they will give many sprouts (this condition is relevant not only for remontant, but also for ordinary varieties of culture). After the seeds are planted, the container is covered with a plastic transparent film and kept in a room with an acceptable air temperature (at least 20-22 degrees). After 3 weeks, the first shoots will be noticeable, while the seedlings must be watered periodically.

Landing

Seedlings are planted in mid-May or a little later, when the threat of night frosts has passed. If planting remontant strawberries is planned before winter, it is better to carry out the procedure from late August to early October. Seedlings are planted by two methods - ordinary and carpet. With the latter, the seedlings are placed in the soil according to the scheme of 20x20 cm, and with an ordinary one, gaps of 20-25 cm remain in the line between them, and a distance of 70 cm is left between the rows.

On a cloudy day on the site, you need to make holes, water and plant seedlings in them (without freeing them from an earthen coma). The soil is preliminarily fertilized with compost, wood ash or manure. It is allowed to place 2 sprouts in one hole. When planting seedlings, it is important to ensure that the roots do not bend, and that the hearts are slightly above the surface of the site. The procedure is completed by squeezing the soil around the bushes so that there are no voids left in the root area, and watering.

An alternative time for planting remontant strawberries is autumn. When the seedlings are transferred to the site in spring, the culture will begin to bear fruit only after a year, in addition, not everywhere in mid-May the soil warms up enough for a thermophilic plant to develop and grow. This explains why gardeners are more likely to resort to autumn planting strawberry bushes.

The bushes transplanted from trays into open ground in early autumn have time to take root and get stronger by winter without interference in the form of insects and fungal diseases. At the same time, the procedure for planting remontant strawberries in September does not differ from the spring procedure. There are many methods of growing a crop. For small areas specially designed non-standard options plantings that save space on the site - in bags, in a vertical way, under a covering material, etc. Features of such methods:

  1. Vertical way. The plant is planted in pots, tires, boxes, and other containers placed vertically. This saves a lot of space, but makes maintenance difficult.
  2. Under the covering material. Thanks to this, an optimal microclimate is formed for the remontant culture, which prevents the land from drying out. Due to the lack of sunlight, weeds do not grow under the agrofibre.
  3. Growing in bags. Plastic bags are used, where soil is poured into which seedlings are planted. Such bags are hung vertically, holes are made in them for plants.

How to care for repair strawberries

Berries of multi-colored varieties can reach a mass of 100 g, but such success is possible only if the conditions of agricultural technology are observed. Growing and caring for remontant strawberries is somewhat different from the cultivation of conventional types of horticultural crops. After planting in the spring, it is recommended to mulch the beds with straw, pine forest, peat, sawdust, or cover with black agrofibre - this will ensure the preservation of moisture in the soil, and it will be possible to water the crop less often.

Caring for a remontant plant includes watering, loosening the soil around the crop, removing weeds from the garden on time, fertilizing regularly, and protecting against pests / diseases. In early spring one-year-old bushes are removed yellow leaves and feed the culture with ammonium nitrate. The next nitrogen fertilization is planned for late May-early June.

The first crop can be harvested in the spring, but it is better to sacrifice a few berries to get more fruits in the fall, especially since the spring fruiting of "repeated flowers" is inferior in taste to ordinary garden strawberries. If, in addition to remontant varieties, and traditional species crops, enjoy their fruits in the spring, and remove the flower stalks from multi-colored strawberries when they appear, then the bushes will retain their strength for a rich autumn yield. This technique is effective only for one- or two-year-old plants.

Summer care after plant means preparation before fruiting. To get a rich harvest, you need to regularly fertilize, loosen and water the ground around the bushes. To enhance the re-flowering of strawberries, the leaves are cut off, trying not to damage the apical bud. Those less for me, in some remontant varieties, berries are formed on the rosettes of the mustache, then the leaves are not removed.

Often, after repeated fruiting of a culture, it is necessary to plant new bushes, since not all plants can withstand a serious load during fruiting. At good care the remontant strawberry bush bears fruit for an average of 3 years, but much depends on proper planting and care, climatic conditions terrain and soil composition.

Watering

Since the plant has a shallow root system and cannot collect moisture from the deep layers of the soil, a special scheme is used to moisturize the strawberries. The remontant varieties are watered regularly early in the morning or in the evening, while using exclusively warm water... Immediately after planting, the bushes are moistened daily, and after a week, watering is carried out every 2-4 days. For yearling plants, the first spring watering is carried out at the end of April (subject to a small amount of natural precipitation).

In May-June, 3-4 more waterings should be carried out, and from August-September, the remontant culture is moistened at least 2 times a month. The soil on the plot should be moistened to a depth of 2-3 cm. The next day after watering / rain, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the bushes so that the roots can "breathe" and are not covered with a crust formed on the surface. Mulching the garden, as well as covering the garden with black agrofibre, will reduce the time you spend watering, loosening and weeding the area with repair strawberries.

Top dressing

Fertilizing a re-flowering crop - essential condition to obtain good yields and prolong the life of plants that are in dire need of a constant supply of potassium and nitrogen. They especially depend on the feeding of the NSD variety. Phosphorus, when introduced into the right amount before planting, it is no longer necessary to add to the soil in the current season (you can mulch the beds with humus at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 sq. m, or with manure - 5-6 kg each).

At the end of spring, strawberries are fertilized with a 1-2% urea solution, and in the second half of June (with the appearance of flower stalks of the second harvest), the garden can be watered with water from chicken droppings or slurry. For this purpose, a bucket with organic waste is diluted with 8-10 parts of water, and 10 liters of concentrated liquid manure - 3-4 parts. In total, 10-15 complex dressings are carried out per season. The culture is fertilized until late autumn, while the roots are growing, otherwise it will not retire. For feeding, not only organic, but also complex are used. mineral fertilizers, for example, Solution, Kemiru.

Transfer

There is no point in replanting strawberry bushes, since remontant varieties are short-lived and do not live longer than 3-4 years, even with perfect care. If you have an urgent need to transplant the bushes, you should understand that it is advisable to do this no later than 3 weeks before frost. Transplanting in the spring will deprive you of the opportunity to get a quick harvest, so do it as early as possible, before the flower stalks appear, then you will receive the first berries in mid-late July. If the peduncles have already appeared, they will have to be removed so that the strawberry will save the strength for adaptation in a new place.

Pruning

The mustache can be trimmed throughout the season or left untouched. Some gardeners remove the antennae so as not to thicken the planting, others argue that certain varieties of strawberries bear fruit on daughter rosettes (they appear on the growing mustache), so it is impossible to remove the shoots. At the same time, so that the plantings do not overgrow, it is necessary to plant the bushes at a considerable distance from each other. In anticipation of winter, however, the tendrils are cut off when the leaves are removed. In the spring, old, yellowed leaves are removed from the bushes.

Diseases and pests

If berry culture wasps took a fancy, containers with sweet compote can be placed around the site. Glass red balls, which need to be placed next to the bushes, will save strawberries from eating birds. After unsuccessful attempts to peck at the decorative balls, the birds will give up trying to feast on the fruits. When a culture is infected with various pathogenic microorganisms, insects or nematodes, use special means.

For the treatment of bushes, sometimes potent chemicals are used that negatively affect the quality of strawberries (toxins accumulate in the berries). In this regard, experienced gardeners recommend carrying out preventive treatment plants on the eve of the flowering period - this will help to avoid negative impact disinfectants for fruits. It is not worth neglecting measures to protect against diseases, since preventing strawberry disease is easier than treating it. Common pathologies and pests of crops include:

  • gray rot;
  • powdery mildew;
  • brown / white spots;
  • fusarium wilting;
  • fungal infections;
  • strawberry mites;
  • slugs;
  • weevils;
  • ants, etc.

Reproduction of remontant strawberries

If you want to expand the garden by rooting a mustache, you will need to donate a second crop. At the first fruiting, remember the strongest, most developed young bushes, distribute their first whiskers into the furrows formed along the side of the bed. The rest of the antennae will have to be trimmed so as not to weaken the mother plants. After a certain time, sprouts will appear on the mustache, but only the first sockets will need to be left.

Cut off the tendrils of the second order without separating the first rosettes from the mother bush. While they are gaining strength and growing, water and weed the soil around. A week before transplanting the outlets to a permanent place, you need to carefully detach them from the mother bush. After that, young shoots sit in the ground, as described in the "Planting" section.

With a shortage planting material culture propagation is used by the method of division. Two- and three-year-old plants with strong roots are suitable for this (at this age, they have already formed many shoots-horns, equipped with a rosette of leaves). In early spring or autumn, a suitable bush is dug up, carefully divided into several horns, after which they are planted in the ground.

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