Sawing of panels from chipboard and other materials. How to make an even cut of chipboard at home? The better to cut the chipboard

How to nag chipboard without chips

How to cut a chipboard without chips?

Chipboard... This is a well-known chipboard, finely sanded and covered with a paper-resin film. Lamination is carried out under a pressure of 25-28 MPa at a temperature of 140-210 C. How to cut a chipboard without chips. How to saw with an electric jigsaw without chips. The coating is durable, beautiful, resistant to mechanical damage and thermal effects, which makes laminated chipboard very attractive for furniture production and interior decoration premises.

Many home craftsmen prefer self-production furniture and buy high-quality laminated chipboard in hardware stores or from manufacturers. How to cut with a jigsaw without chips on one and on both sides, as well as with what files you need to cut so that there are no chips. Fortunately, the widest range of colors of laminated coatings allows you to easily choose the most suitable material... The surface texture is also varied: it can be smooth, imitating wood, or a natural stone, embossed under shagreen or wood pores.

But to make with my own hands unique furniture or exclusive interior, it is not enough just to buy laminated chipboard and cut it according to patterns. The thin laminated coating is fragile. With gross illiterate actions, the cut turns out to be ragged, and deep shells appear on the edges of the coating. To cut a chipboard without chips and cracks, you need to know some tricks of working with it.

Rules for sawing laminated chipboard

Custom cut will be smoother

High-quality sawing chipboard difficult to produce manually due to big size sheets. The dimensions of a standard slab are 2440 × 1200, and this is not the limit. Methods for processing chipboard: how to cut a chipboard before cutting how to cut a chipboard without chips. We saw the tabletop without chips. How to drill big and how to nag electro. However, if you quite often work with chipboard or MDF, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go in two ways:

  • Cut the slabs yourself using the available hand tool
  • Order sawing chipboard in a specialized workshop.
  • Tools and materials
  • How to cut chipboard without chips?
  • Figured cutting
  • What you can't cut chipboard

?? We saw chipboard without chips

In this video case, I suggest the option to nag Chipboard no chips, without resorting to panel saws, pogru.

If you have at least once tried to cut a chipboard with your own hands, then you know for sure that this work is by no means simple and does not require so much skill, at the same time having good tool... It is especially difficult to process laminated chipboard, when sawing which often a lot of chips are formed. Therefore, probably the masters, faced with such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to cut the chipboard when making a purchase, especially since the trading organizations probably provide such services, but their price is not quite acceptable.

Sawing of chipboard is carried out using precise panel saws, which help to obtain blanks of a given size without a shape.

Modern models allow you to cut plate materials evenly, not only in a horizontal not vertical direction, but at an angle.

In addition to cutting sheets, they will help you to resolve them, not to provide several options for competent, inexpensive cutting in the form of a visual video file sheet material(with the use of special programs) do not, if necessary, carry out the edging. However, if for some reason you prefer to do this work yourself, you will have to do some preparatory work while cutting the chipboard.

Tools and materials

If possible, it is preferable to cut the chipboard with a hand mill, using homemade guides. Tell me how to cut wood chipboard without chips, all these saws allow to nag chipboard without chips. This method is not very convenient when cutting large sheets, because a table is required while working with this tool. Today, in this case, the method has to frequently change the cutters. But for a reason, you get cleanly processed, "chamfered" edges.

Electric jigsaw most popular tool for sawing chipboard

Some craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work, however, in the absence of skill, it is difficult to cut exactly, in addition, chips can form variations.

There is an option to try to install a bimetallic blade with teeth pointed inward, intended for a laminate, on a jigsaw. Cutting with a jigsaw should be increased by increasing the speed, with a small feed, so that breaks do not form.

If such methods do not suit you, then to cut the chipboard yourself, we will prepare for work:

  • a hacksaw with fine teeth (much better fit the one that is intended for metal work). With all this, the teeth must be divorced by 1 / 2.4 of the blade thickness, not hardened
  • paper adhesive tape
  • file for roughing the cut line
  • sandpaper for finishing the cut line.

Read:

How to cut chipboard without chips?

While we start cutting chipboard, especially laminated one, cut a line with a sharp tool, because of which we can get acquainted with sawing, do not glue paper tape with a sticky layer along it. This will help minimize damage to the decorative chipboard layer.

In order for the chips to be as small as possible, it is necessary to direct the movement of the hacksaw under acute angle to the surface (less than 30 °). The movements are smooth, without excessive pressure on the plate, not sharp jerks.

In that case, chips, however, could not be avoided, we process the cut first with a file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and at the end with a fine-grained sandpaper. There is also an option to disguise what remains for our client to do defects, applying, wherever it is for you, a flexible profile.

Figured cutting

It is even more difficult to obtain curved surfaces of a given configuration on your own, here you will have to additionally spend money on purchasing a router that will help you get rid of chips not the chipping caused when you have to cut the chipboard.

Price for manual frezer can fluctuate significantly, based on the manufacturer, capacity, availability additional functions... If you do not plan to manufacture furniture professionally, then it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.

To cut chipboard, you need to follow these steps:

  1. having marked out the contours of the necessary part on a chipboard sheet, we cut it out with an electric jigsaw, trying to cut back a couple of millimeters from the intended cutting line
  2. we make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood, we do not carefully grind the ends with sandpaper
  3. attaching the template to the part to be trimmed, clamp it with clamps, do not process it with a manual copying cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended line.

In this case, it does not matter which cutter (with two or another four knives used). The only condition is that the knives must) be at their full height to capture the cut thickness to be processed. After processing, it remains only to stick the edge on the part. How to do this, see the video:

What you can't cut chipboard

If the volume of work is large enough, and the quality requirements are small, some craftsmen advise to saw the chipboard at home using a grinder (angle grinder, commonly called a grinder). How to cut chipboard; 4. To protect the board from chips, stick it on how to cut the chipboard without chips. Here they use a disc designed for woodworking. How to smoothly saw off chipboard without chips and lint. To make cutting easier, a guide bar is fixed with clamps along the cutting line. Sawing chipboard using a grinder can be seen in the video.

It is believed that without professional tool a high-quality cut of wood or sheet materials cannot be performed. Today we will talk about ways to make a clean, even cut without chips, on our own and without using expensive equipment and consumables.

Cutting tools and mechanics of their work

If you do not take into account stationary machines for cutting, alternatives for self made not so much. From the available tools, you can offer circular and pendulum saws, in the common people referred to as crosscutters and jigsaws. It is also possible to perform a sufficiently high-quality cut using a angle grinder, on which a saw blade for wood with victorious teeth is installed. But this is not the most effective and, moreover, not the safest option.

In the process of cutting with any type of power tool, the working bodies move at a very high speed, and therefore the machining mechanics remain, as it were, behind the scenes. However, understanding it is the key to getting a clean, chip-free edge. The simplest principle is the basis for the work of pendulum saws. The cut is carried out with the direct movement of the saw blade, while the size of the removed fragments completely depends on the size of the tooth and its setting.

Chips appear due to the heterogeneity of the processed material, in particular due to the hard crust of laminated sheet materials or due to the fact that the fibers of solid wood have different densities. Chips can form from different sides of the product, depending on the shape of the tooth, feed force and speed of movement of the working body. When working with a jigsaw, the appearance of chips is due either to the fact that the teeth pull out large fragments from seamy side, or due to the pushing of the upper layer, in which it is not cut off, but breaks off in large fragments.

The work of the prongs circular disc much like a jigsaw, with the only exception that their movement is directed strictly in one direction, and they move at a very high speed. The direction (angle) of the applied force is also a significant factor: if the jigsaw saw moves strictly perpendicular to the surface, then the circular cuts at an arbitrary angle, depending on both the diameter of the disc and the thickness of the part. This can play into the hands: oblique immersion of the tooth contributes to a more accurate cutting of chips, but from the back side, due to the tangential movement of the cutting edges, large fragments can be pulled out. Of course, a circular saw will only be able to make a straight cut.

Choice of saw blades and blades

When cutting, cleanliness and processing speed are inversely related. It is worth noting that chips on the cut will appear in any case, so the main task is to reduce their size to such a value where they can be easily eliminated by subsequent processing. The size of the chips will be the smaller, the smaller the size of the tooth and the closer to right angle, under which the cutting edge touches the surface of the material. For choosing a circular saw blade, these are the two most important factor out of three.

The third can be called the amount of setting - the offset of adjacent teeth, which is quite simple to determine by attaching a ruler to them. To ensure a clean cut, the wiring should be minimal, but do not forget that in this case, when you try to cut a thick board or a sheet of plywood, the disc can be trivially clamped or the end will burn from strong friction.

Jigsaw blades are more varied. For a chip-free cut, a series of clean-cut saws are used, for example, BOSCH has a line of blades called CleanWood. Their main difference is their small size and the absence of a pronounced orientation of the teeth. They are usually in the shape of an isosceles triangle and cut in both directions of travel.

Also saws for a clean cut are distinguished by the almost complete absence of setting and the opposite direction of sharpening adjacent teeth. In order to provide an opportunity for small wiring curly cut, the files have a very small width, which is why they become quite fragile.

For fine cutting of sheet materials, blades designed to work with metal products... These files have smallest size teeth of the known, therefore the cut is performed slowly, but with the highest rate quality. Due to the significant width of the canvases for metal, a fine figured cut can be carried out only with a significant bend radius, on average about 60-80 cm.

Note also that the bluntness of the teeth, which is typical for low-quality saws with a "run" of 3-5 meters, also leads to the formation of chips. Therefore, do not skimp when purchasing consumables if the quality of processing is really important to you.

Zero clearance technique

The most commonly used by carpentry craftsmen is the sole finishing principle. cutting tool, which consists in reducing the gap between the working body and the clamping platform. This is almost guaranteed to eliminate the crust breaking effect in top layer material.

Zero clearance is achieved by attaching the cover plate to the tool base plate. The pad has only one narrow hole (or slot) that fits snugly against the cutting body. Because of this, even with a high feed force, the teeth are guaranteed to cut small chips, and not turn out the chips in the upper layer of the part.

When using pads, it is imperative that they do not scratch or damage the surface of the part. Therefore, most often they are made from a material that is inferior in hardness to the processed one, for example, MDF or drywall. Unfortunately, such an overlay is not enough for a long time, which is why it has to be changed every 4-5 meters of the cut.

More durable pads can be made of sheet plastic (PVC, fluoroplastic), fiberglass or metal. In the latter case, the surface of the pad should be carefully polished and soft metals such as aluminum or duralumin should be used to reduce vibration.

Using adhesive tapes

By the same principle, you can protect and back side cut material. Tape should be glued along the cutting line, which will protect against pulling out large fragments. Pasting surfaces is one of the few ways to ensure the cleanliness of a figured cut with a jigsaw. Unfortunately, masking tape is not suitable for this in the best way due to its low strength.

The best quality cut can be obtained by pasting the part with aluminum or fiberglass-reinforced tape-tape. It should be wide enough to cover 15-20 mm on each side of the cut line. The density of the sticker is also important: the tape must be well pressed with a dry rag swab and by any means to exclude the formation of folds.

Tapes with very tenacious glue should be avoided. In the process of tearing off, they can carry along with them small fibers and fragments of the laminated surface, dissected by microcracks that form during cutting. Also pay attention to how easy the adhesive is to remove and whether the adhesive is good enough to handle rough materials like raw plywood or OSB.

Ensuring a perfectly clean cut

For most parts, it is sufficient to reduce the chip size to 0.2-0.5 mm. Such small irregularities of the cut edge are not striking; if desired, they can be easily eliminated by chamfering with an emery bar or smearing with a wax corrector pencil. Grinding of the butt is also possible sandpaper if a sufficient stock was given when cutting.

Nevertheless, even at home, it is possible to achieve a cut quality comparable to that of a saw with two high-speed discs. This is possible only when the tool moves along the guide rail, in extreme cases - along the temporary stop bar.

First, you need to make two cuts about 0.5 mm deep on both sides of the part to indicate the thickness of the cut. Along the edges of the cutting line, you need to scratch two grooves under a straight ruler. This is done either with a segmented or oblique boot knife (for chipboard and uncoated wood) or with a sharpened drill or victorious cutter (for laminated materials).

The depth of the grooves should be at least half the thickness of the outer layer, which is inhomogeneous with respect to the main body of material. This method requires high accuracy of matching the grooves and the cutting line, but this is the only way to ensure a perfectly flat edged end that does not require additional processing.

Chipboard is a very common chipboard covered with a paper-resin film, which is also finely sanded. Lamination takes place at a temperature of 140-210 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 25-28 MPa. After the entire lamination procedure, the surface is beautiful, durable, resistant to thermal effects and mechanical damage, which gives the chipboard a very attractive look in the manufacture of furniture and when decorating the interior of the room.

A large number of craftsmen prefer to make furniture on their own and for this they buy high-quality laminated chipboard from manufacturers or in ordinary hardware stores. A wide range of colors for surface lamination allows you to easily choose required material... There are also a variety of textures: it can be embossed under wood spores or shagreen, or smooth, as well as imitate natural stone or wood.

But in order to make an exclusive interior or unique furniture yourself, it is not enough just to purchase laminated chipboard. The laminate has a very fragile structure. With the wrong actions, the cutting of chipboard turns out to be very torn, and deep shells appear on the edges. In order to cut the chipboard without cracks and chips, you need to know a few tricks when making a cut.

Basic rules for cutting laminated chipboard

You can cut laminated chipboard at home using a circular saw, jigsaw, or a hand saw with fine teeth. For all the work to be successful, you should:

  • Along the line of the main cut, fix the adhesive tape very tightly, which does not allow the teeth to damage the face of the surface.
  • Use a sharp knife to cut the laminated flooring along the cutting line. In this case, the saw will cut the inner layers of the chipboard, exerting only a tangential effect on the coating.
  • Saw manual type, should be placed at a very acute angle relative to the board surface during operation.
  • Saw with an electric tool at minimum feed.
  • On this part, cut off a layer of the surface edge with a thin knife at an angle of 45 degrees.
  • Grinding the cut should be done with a small file, grinding the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

For subsequent protection of the surface from cracks and chips, you should use overlays: C-shaped overhead edging, self-adhesive melamine tape, T-shaped edge.

How to cut a chipboard without chips?

Chipboard- this is a well-known chipboard, finely sanded and covered with a paper-resin film. Lamination is carried out under a pressure of 25-28 MPa at a temperature of 140-210 C. The coating is durable, beautiful, resistant to mechanical damage and thermal effects, which makes laminated chipboard very attractive for furniture production and interior decoration.

Many home craftsmen prefer to make their own furniture and buy high-quality laminated chipboard in hardware stores or from manufacturers. Fortunately, the widest range of colors of laminated coverings allows you to easily choose the most suitable material. The surface texture is also varied: it can be smooth, imitating wood or natural stone, embossed with shagreen or wood pores.

But in order to make unique furniture or an exclusive interior with your own hands, it is not enough just to buy laminated chipboard and cut it out according to patterns. The thin laminated coating is fragile. With gross illiterate actions, the cut turns out to be ragged, and deep shells appear on the edges of the coating. To cut a chipboard without chips and cracks, you need to know some tricks of working with it.

Rules for sawing laminated chipboard

You can cut chipboard at home with a hand saw with fine teeth, circular saw, jigsaw. In order for the work to go smoothly and without a hitch, you must:

1. Along the cutting line, secure adhesive tape tightly to prevent the teeth from damaging the face of the cover. 2. Using a sharp knife along the cutting line, cut through the laminated flooring and the layer of chips under it. Thus, the saw will cut the inner layers of the chipboard, affecting the coating only tangentially. 3. Position the hand saw at a very sharp angle to the surface of the board. 4. Cut with electric tools at minimum feed. 5. Cut off a thin layer of the edge of the coating at an angle of 45.6 on the obtained part with a sharp knife. Grind the cut with a small file, processing the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

So that during further operation the edge of the sawn chipboard does not form chips and cracks, it must be protected with special overlays. It can be self-adhesive melamine tape, C-shaped patch piping, T-shaped edge.

Do it yourself or order?

Custom cut will be smoother

  • Cut the slabs yourself using the available hand tool
  • Tools and materials
  • How to cut chipboard without chips?
  • Figured cutting
  • What you can't cut chipboard

If you have tried to cut a chipboard at home at least once, then you know for sure that this work is by no means simple and requires not only skill, but also a good tool. It is especially difficult to process laminated chipboard, when sawing which often a lot of chips are formed. That is why, when faced with such a problem, many craftsmen come to the conclusion that it is better to cut the chipboard when buying, especially since many trading organizations provide such services and the price for them is quite acceptable.

Sawing of chipboard is carried out using precise panel saws, which will help to obtain workpieces of a given size and shape.

Modern models allow you to cut plate materials evenly, not only horizontally and vertically, but also at an angle.

In addition to cutting sheets, you will be helped to calculate and provide in the form of a visual video file several options for competent and economical cutting of sheet material (using special computer programs) and, if necessary, perform edging. However, if for some reason you prefer to do this work yourself, you will have to do some preparatory work before sawing the chipboard.

Tools and materials

If possible, it is best to cut the chipboard with a hand milling cutter, using homemade guides. This method is not very convenient when cutting large sheets, because when working with this tool, a table is required. In addition, with this method, the cutters have to be changed frequently. But as a result, you will get cleanly processed, "chamfered" edges.

The electric jigsaw is the most popular tool for sawing chipboard

Some craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work, however, in the absence of skill, it is difficult to cut exactly, and chips can form.

You can try to install on the jigsaw a bimetallic blade with teeth pointed inward, intended for a laminate. Cutting with a jigsaw should be increased by increasing the speed, with a small feed, so that breaks do not form.

If such methods do not suit you, then for cutting chipboard at home, we will prepare for work:

  • a hacksaw with fine teeth (one that is best suited for metal work). In this case, the teeth should be divorced by 1/2 of the blade thickness and be hardened.
  • paper adhesive tape
  • file for roughing the cut line
  • sandpaper for finishing the cut line.

How to cut chipboard without chips?

Before starting to cut a chipboard, especially a laminated one, cut a line with a sharp tool along which we will cut and glue paper tape with a sticky layer along it. This will help to minimize damage to the decorative chipboard layer.

To keep the chips as small as possible, it is necessary to direct the movement of the hacksaw at an acute angle to the surface (no more than 30 °). Movements should be smooth, without undue pressure on the plate and sudden jerks.

If the chips still could not be avoided, we process the cut first with a file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and then with a fine-grained sandpaper. It is also possible to mask all defects by applying a flexible profile where possible.

Figured cutting

It is even more difficult to obtain curved surfaces of a given configuration at home, while you will have to additionally spend money on purchasing a router, which will help you get rid of chips and notches formed when you cut chipboard.

The price of a manual router can fluctuate significantly, depending on the manufacturer, power, and the availability of additional functions. If you do not plan to manufacture furniture professionally, then it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.

To cut chipboard, you need to follow these steps:

  1. having marked out the contours of the necessary part on a chipboard sheet, we cut it out with an electric jigsaw, trying to cut, retreating only a couple of millimeters from the intended cutting line
  2. we make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood and carefully grind the ends with sandpaper
  3. attaching the template to the part to be trimmed, clamp it with clamps and process it with a manual copying cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended line.

In this case, it does not matter which cutter (with two or four knives used). The only condition is that the knives must grasp the cut thickness to be processed along the entire height.

How to cut chipboard?

After processing, it remains only to stick the edge on the part. How to do this, see the video:

What you can't cut chipboard

If the volume of work is large enough, and the quality requirements are small, some craftsmen advise to saw the chipboard at home using a grinder (angle grinder, commonly called a grinder). In doing so, they use a disc designed for working with wood. To make cutting easier, a guide bar is fixed along the cutting line with the help of clamps. Sawing chipboard using a grinder can sometimes be seen in the video.

Attention, important! This method is absolutely unacceptable, since there is a very high probability of injury during work, especially if discs are used. large diameter and the protective cover is removed from the grinder.

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How to cut a pipe straight with a grinder?

When dealing with construction or plumbing tasks, you need to know how to cut the pipe straight with a grinder. In the article, we will consider quick and easy ways of how to properly cut a pipe with a grinder so that the result is perfect.

Pipe cutting at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees

If you need to cut the pipe at an angle of 45 degrees, which is more often required when laying plumbing, heating pipes... Steel, cast iron pipes that are cylindrical in shape are often used. V installation works rectangular or shaped pipes are used. However, you should correctly cut the pipe with a grinder, so that you can easily connect it later. Therefore, you should carefully mark the pipe.

Some craftsmen try to mark the place of the cut using a tape measure, but we warn you that the result is likely to be negative. And for a positive result, consider the following professional recommendation.

Take a sheet of paper or cardboard, preferably A4, fold it diagonally and wrap it around the pipe where you plan to cut it evenly. The edges of the paper must be in perfect alignment with each other. And the side of the paper that is closer to the end of the pipe was perpendicular to the axis. Then mark the cutting line in a circle.

If you need to cut exactly at an angle of 90 degrees, then solve the problem quickly using paper or masking tape again. Wrap around the pipe so the ends match. Make even lines and saw off.

How to cut a profile pipe straight?

Masters advise to use when cutting shaped pipe square. To do this, apply the square in turn to the sides, and turn and mark with smooth movements. After action, fix the pipe and cut. Prepare yourself a template that will come in handy in the future and save time. Better action grinder, so the cut will be smoother.

How to cut cast iron pipe?

When working with a cast iron pipe, keep in mind that it is a brittle material. Therefore, we will point out a way with which it will be possible to cut such a metal without damage.

Before starting work, make notes for the cut, as in working with steel pipes... Submit wooden bar for support. Work the grinder around the circumference of the pipe, making small cuts. Then take the chisels, insert them into the groove and hit hard with a hammer. Note that bakelite-based cut-off wheels are used to cut cast iron pipes.

If you don't have a grinder at hand to cut a cast-iron sewer pipe or other purposes, use a metal hacksaw, chisels or special pipe cutters.

How to cut a gas pipe?

Cutting a gas pipe is dangerous, so it is best to entrust it to professionals. But if you are confident in your strength, then take a grinder, welding, hacksaw, gas welding to cut the metal.

Pruning instruction:

  • Shut off the gas riser before work. Then release the rest of the gas from the pipe. To do this, light the gas in the burners and wait for it to go out.
  • After the steps taken, cut. Using the welding method, the metal base will burn out when exposed to high temperature... The result is fast and effective. But remember that for pruning or rooting gas pipes again, experience is needed.

Methods for cutting large diameter pipes

There are a number of reliable tools for cutting large diameter pipes such as sewers. Next, we will consider some of them in detail:

  • The grinder is inexpensive and affordable option, but it is considered not the safest to work with such materials. Once you decide to use this method, then be careful and use protective equipment.
  • A roller machine (pipe cutter) is such a tool adapted for such manipulations. The device is attached and material removal begins. The clamping force is adjusted using mechanical devices. It is important to note that machine models differ in shape, so consider the ratio with the pipe before use.
  • Flame cutting is the most popular option for cutting pipes larger diameter, sheet metal... The cut occurs due to the action of a high intensity flame, the metal melts and leaves the cut zone with a gas flow. This method is convenient and effective.

How to cut the pipe lengthwise correctly?

A quick way to cut a pipe lengthwise using a grinder:

  • Focus on the markup.
  • Use for such a case the painter's thread, which has found widespread use when marking walls.
  • Before starting work, fix the pipe and with small movements, carefully saw the pipe.
  • Better not to rush, but delicately and slowly process the parts of the pipe, so cutting disc will not jump off the marking lines. Remember safety precautions.

How to cut thin-walled pipes?

Thin-walled pipes are made of non-ferrous metals: aluminum, copper.

How to cut chipboard with a jigsaw without chips

Such work should be done delicately, since there is a high probability of deformation of the material. Fillers such as sand are used for cutting. Actions can be carried out using a grinder, a special machine.

Summing up, we emphasize that cutting metal pipes the process is complex, but anyone who wishes can enhance it. With the advice of a professional, you can easily handle cutting pipes in a variety of sizes and materials. Also remember to file or sandpaper the edges of the pipes after cutting. And the most important thing to remember when starting such actions is safety precautions. Wear a special suit (casing), mask or goggles before starting work. closed type... Hands should also be reliably protected from sparks, so use thick gloves.

Sawing panels from chipboard and other materials

  • Any home craftsman sooner or later is faced with the need to cut chipboard. It can be making furniture with your own hands or wall cladding. MDF panels or chipboard. As you know, it is not difficult to cut chipboard, but making the cut even and without chips is not an easy task.

    Do it yourself or order?

    Custom cut will be smoother

    High-quality sawing of chipboard is difficult to do manually due to the large size of the sheets. The dimensions of a standard slab are 2440 × 1200, and this is not the limit. However, if you quite often work with chipboard or MDF, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go in two ways:

    • Cut the slabs yourself using the available hand tool;
    • Order sawing chipboard in a specialized workshop.

    What to choose is up to you, and we will consider each of these options.

    Cutting panels at home

    You can also cut with a jigsaw

    It is quite possible to cut a sheet of chipboard or chipboard by hand. True, in this case you are unlikely to be able to avoid the appearance of chips and burrs, but you can try to reduce their number and size.

    There are several rules that should be followed when cutting chipboard panels:

    • cutting sheets must be done on a flat, hard surface. Two large tables can be adapted for sawing large panels (their height must be the same!);
    • in order to exclude the appearance of chips, stick adhesive tape or good masking tape along the cutting line, which will hold the edges of the laminated layer;
    • for sawing with hand saw pick up a blade with a grinding tooth. Saw teeth should be well sharpened. You need to drive the saw with slight pressure, at an acute angle to the surface, constantly monitoring its position;
    • for cutting chipboard and chipboard boards with a jigsaw, the saw line should be scratched or even cut through. It is best to use a sharp knife to cut through the durable layer of the laminate;
    • install a file with a fine reverse tooth;
    • select the maximum speed of the jigsaw, turn off the "pendulum";
    • fasten a flat rail along the saw cut line and move the jigsaw strictly along it;
    • the jigsaw should be firmly pressed against the surface to be sawn.

    All these recommendations help to properly saw and cut the chipboard, but chips, nevertheless, cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, if it is so important to get perfectly smooth, straight line cut, without chips and saw marks, you should contact specialized workshops, where any figure will be cut out of a chipboard sheet for you for a reasonable fee.

    Precision and quality

    Precise cutting is the key to success

    Panel saws for sawing laminated chipboard and chipboard have a high cut quality, which allows you to reduce the subsequent costs of processing sections (grinding, removing chips and burrs, and so on). That is why on such machines it is possible to cut any complexity and configuration, which means almost inexhaustible possibilities in the production of furniture. Fancy children's furniture, comfortable tabletops computer tables, curly through carved decorations in the doors kitchen facades- all this is possible when using machine tools.

    There are two types of panel cutting machines:

    • vertical, representing a strong rigid vibration-resistant welded frame (frame), installed vertically with a backward deflection of 50 °, with guides located above and below, along which the saw beam moves. It is a bracket for the saw unit, which moves up and down along the beam, and also rotates 90 °, which allows you to make both vertical and horizontal cuts. The precision of the cut is amazing. For sawing laminated chipboard, as well as solid, corrugated or porous slabs, a special scoring unit is used. The saw rotation frequency reaches 15 thousand revolutions per minute;
    • horizontal, consisting of a table for a plate, carriages for moving the saw along the sawing mechanism and the sawing mechanism itself, consisting of one or two cutting units. The cutting units themselves are equipped with a main saw and a scoring saw. The principle is simple: the main saw cuts deep chipboard, and the trimmer cuts the bottom edge precisely and precisely (veneer or laminated surface). The saw unit can also be tilted up to 45 °.

    The miter saw is a "domesticated" and greatly reduced copy horizontal machine... It will not be possible to cut a wide sheet of chipboard or chipboard on it, but with small details she can handle it perfectly.

    We saw other types of panels

    MDF panels also need to be cut exactly

    Cutting MDF is different from cutting chipboard panels. The high density of the material quickly dulls the saw teeth, so it often has to be sharpened or completely changed. You can cut unrefined MDF on conventional machine however laminated board requires a machine with an additional bottom saw.

    Sawing panels from chipboard and other materials

    This is especially important when sawing slabs with a double-sided finish.

    Fiberboard can be cut at home using an electric or hand jigsaw... Of course, the file must be sharp, with small tooth, on the jigsaw, you must set the maximum speed. Install the fiberboard horizontally on a support that should not interfere with sawing (between two tables or chairs, for example), secure, if necessary, with clamps.

    The electric jigsaw should be held with two hands, pressing firmly to the surface, move smoothly, strictly along the line of the marking, without jerking or pressing.

    The same applies to working with a hand jigsaw.

    In the case when it is necessary to cut a lot of sheets of material, it is more convenient to contact a specialized company. This will save you time and effort.

    Video on sawing chipboard using a circular saw

    It is not always easy to cut a chipboard beautifully and without chips. See how to do it right:

    How to cut chipboard without chips

    So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to roll out another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing chipboard without chips.

    There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw chipboard only on professional equipment(that is, a panel saw).

    The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blade located strictly on one axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

    The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

    Of course, if you decide to make a wardrobe with your own hands. then it is better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the shop, and then calmly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU HAVE STUFFED IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE. I don’t want to drag myself back to the shop, but we have to cut it.

    This article aims to answer this question. An overview of the options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (I ask you to forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this shortcoming with the text ????

    Method 1 - Scratch

    The old-fashioned way. Previously used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard covered with a thick layer of varnish. Now it is rarely used. With it, along the ruler, we scratch with an awl or a simple nail a marking line for the thickness of the decorative coating.

    After that, we saw along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth hit exactly the scratch and not a step past. You can saw with both a jigsaw and a hand saw.

    In principle, in the photo on the right, you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.

    Detailed tutorial on this method

    The cut is significantly cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chipping occurs. It is difficult to keep the instrument in line. So slow.

    Cuts of acceptable quality, short in length, can be carried out with a simple jigsaw. To do this, several conditions must be met.

    First, the file must be with minimum size teeth (that is, for metal) and new. In this case, on one side (where the teeth enter the material), the cut will be practically clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively little.

    Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. Turns are not set to maximum (slightly above average.

    The disadvantage of this method is that it is quite difficult to withstand the strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

    Method 3 - circular saw

    To work with circulars, we need a "fine" saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than long straight cuts with a jigsaw. But at the same time, much more chips are formed (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top), as a rule, is clean. Chips off pieces from the opposite side (bottom)).

    You can cut like a free-sawing saw (it is quite difficult to lead exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - a lot of hassle with the markup.

    So it is with a saw fixed in the table. When using guides, it is much more convenient to cut. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the accuracy of the cut and allow you to stamp the same parts.

    Even with a clean disc, there will be a lot of chips on one side.

    Method 4 - Sawing with undercut

    This is a modification of working with circular saw... Ideally, it will require a plunge-cut saw. but, in principle, you can do with the usual circular. For work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (in the photo there is a simple circular with a homemade tire).

    The whole trick is to, by analogy with a panel saw, make two cuts strictly along one line.

    The cut on the tire (long ruler) will help us with this. The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, undercutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm.

    In this case, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without pulling out pieces of it.

    If you enlarge the photo, you get something like this

    The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, chips are not formed at the point of entry of the tooth into the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut and there is nothing to prick.

    Not a bad way to trim misplaced parts, but you can't cut an entire cabinet that way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (he, too, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with the markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

    Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece, the quality does not differ at all from the format tool, often even better.

    With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating from the marking line by 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
    Very clean cut. The ability to carry out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many radius parts. including several exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.

    So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to roll out another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing chipboard without chips.

    There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a panel saw).

    The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

    The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

    Not a bad way to trim misplaced parts, but you can't cut an entire cabinet that way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (he, too, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with the markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

    Method 5 - Fraser

    Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece, the quality does not differ at all from the format tool, often even better.

    With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating from the marking line by 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). should be copier, that is, with a bearing.
    Very clean cut. The ability to carry out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many, including several, exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.