Since ancient times, wood has been the most demanded building material. And if earlier rather primitive tools were used to process it, today the latest modern technology is used. So, for example, in order to saw wood and process it to the desired size, builders resort to using a sawmill. Unfortunately, such a tool is not cheap and therefore not available to everyone. Home craftsmen found a way out of this situation by making a sawmill from a chainsaw with their own hands. Tips for its design, drawings and video instructions can be found on numerous Internet sites, as well as in our article.

Types and features of the sawmill from the chainsaw

The construction markets offer a large selection of sawmills, which are based on a chainsaw. Fixed in a trolley with rollers, the unit can be manually moved along a pre-laid track. A powerful chain saw or band saw can be used to harvest wood.

For living conditions, large sawmills are most often not required, therefore optimal solution will be the manufacture of a functional homemade mini-machine. Such a unit will be small in size, and therefore it will be easy to move it if necessary.

Often the main element of such a device is a chainsaw, which can be purchased in a specialized store or used a unit of the Ural brand.

Sawmill from a chainsaw with your own hands: video instructions and drawings

Having the drawings available and having studied the video instructions, it is quite simple to independently make a structure for processing logs, boards and slats. Before starting work, you must choose a suitable place. You can install a sawmill from a chainsaw in an old barn, garage, hangar, or even just under a shed. If the room for the unit will be closed, then you should take care of the hood.

Sawmill from a chainsaw - option number 1

For the manufacture of a structure, in addition to a chainsaw, you will need:

• two channels 8 meters long and 140-180 mm high;
• two rails;
• corners 50x100 mm and 40x40 mm;
• segments water pipe 25 cm as screeds;
• a steel plate 4-6 cm thick and 60 cm long;
• movable hoses;
• pipes with a diameter of 35-40 mm.

DIY sawmill you should start with assembling the base from rails and corners turned upside down 50x100 mm. They should be installed strictly parallel to the floor, so you need to use the building level.

1. Along the length of the base, according to the drawing, holes are drilled with a step of 1-1.5 meters and a diameter of 14-16 mm.
2. Then, according to the number of holes, ties are taken, which are connected with bolts.
3. Racks are made of metal squares and the base is placed on them. The distance between the extreme posts and the base should be about 100 cm.
4. To make the structure more rigid, the braces between the uprights can be welded.

After the base is completed and installed, you need to make a movable cart with your own hands. For this a corner is welded on the bottom of the steel plate 40x40 mm and the product is placed on rollers or bearings. Two corners are welded on top of the plate, to which the chainsaw is attached.

On the last stage work on the manufacture of a homemade sawmill, it is necessary to make a structure for fixing the logs. For this, the flexible hoses and pipes must be positioned at the required height and secured.

The first version of a homemade sawmill from a chainsaw is ready. There is another way to make a do-it-yourself wood processing unit. The tools and drawing for it will need the same, however, the design itself is more refined.

Sawmill from a chainsaw with your own hands - option number 2

The structure consists of four main units:

1. Saws with a drive.
2. A mechanism for adjusting the thickness of the manufactured board.
3. A mechanism for moving the saw part of the structure.
4. Devices for fixing logs.

Since a chainsaw with a working engine and cutting teeth is already available, it will be necessary to make only both mechanisms and a device for fixing the logs with your own hands.

Mechanism for regulating the thickness of the boards.

Logs are sawn by raising or lowering the base, which must be welded to the plate using four folded nuts. At the top of this device it is necessary to install the locknuts, which must be tightened after the unit is adjusted to the desired thickness of the material being processed.

Saw movement mechanism.

The saw in the structure moves along the frame along the guide corners, the distance between which should be 50 cm. weld two rollers or bearings by 20 mm. The lower roller should keep the sawmill from lifting, and the upper roller should be supported on the guide angle.

A device for fixing a log.

On such a unit logs are fastened with two combs- fixed and moving by means of a screw. After the material to be processed is set, the moving ridge is fixed with screws in a stationary state. Now you can start safely operating a homemade sawmill made from a chainsaw.

The sawmill is an impressive size rather dangerous unit in operation, therefore, before starting its assembly, you should carefully consider the place of its operation. It should be well lit, ventilated and have free space. The nearby warehouse for finished boards will greatly facilitate the processing of the material.

For sawmill with electric motor you should very carefully install the necessary switches and machines, as well as do the wiring.

Since the most dangerous elements of the unit are all its cutting and moving parts, when assembling the structure, they should be given Special attention.

Before starting to operate the assembled equipment, it is necessary to check all fasteners and assemblies, as well as the stability of the structure.

Instructions for the operation of a homemade sawmill from a chainsaw

After the structure is assembled and tested, it must be tested in working with wood. This requires:

It is impossible to make jerky movements when cutting, as this can lead to a stopper of the tire.

It should be borne in mind that it is necessary to work in personal protective equipment, which include mittens, a robe, arm ruffles and glasses. In addition, it is worth worrying about protection for the movable frame in advance. It can be made from acrylic or clear plastic. Such shields are able to protect against saw chain and shavings.

A self-assembled sawmill from a chainsaw will make it possible to make high-quality lumber with a cut of the correct shape. Therefore, if you often have to work with lumber, then such home-made equipment, made on the basis of the attached drawings and videos, will become an irreplaceable thing on the farm.

Sawing machine for wood (sawmill) - rather sophisticated special production equipment that requires strict adherence to safety measures during operation. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, your own sawmill can significantly reduce costs for wood construction and / or become a source of stable income. The purpose of this publication is to help the reader understand how a sawmill is made with his own hands, choose a design suitable for himself and avoid insurmountable difficulties in its manufacture.

When is it needed?

Interest in "do-it-yourself sawmill" actually came to Runet from the EU. There, in a certain period of time (which has not yet completely ended), independent sawing of round timber into measured sawn timber turned out to be profitable in spite of everything. In the Russian Federation, the situation is significantly different. First, the "scissors" of prices for wild log and timber in Russia "divorced" a lot already. Second, primary wood processing is an especially dangerous job, like logging. It is not realistic for a small individual entrepreneur to legally open a sawmill - Russian legislation on labor protection is draconian in this regard.

The third point is sawdust. There will be a lot of them from the primary processing of wood. Store sawdust (for example, for fuel for the furnace long burning) it is impossible - they begin to ferment, emitting highly toxic methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol). Sawmills are required to hand over sawdust for recycling. “Over the hill” it is easier with them - the local producers of MDF and fiberboard will willingly buy the raw materials they need, maybe even with self-delivery. RF is not poor in wood in any way and Russian manufacturers slab / sheet wood materials"Left" parties do not take sawdust. Based on these conditions, it is possible to preliminarily determine cases when making a sawmill yourself in the Russian Federation may make sense:

• An indispensable condition - if round timber is easily accessible in your area, and the nearest sawmill is far away. Renting a timber carrier for Russian distances (meaning an idle run from the garage) on Russian roads in the outback for a ton-kilometer of cargo is significantly more expensive than European.
• If the sine qua non condition is met, then the first case is independent wooden construction with a chronic lack of funds. Then the independent sawing of round timber into the timber will reduce the construction budget by 2-3 times and up to 5 times, taking into account the costs of manufacturing the sawmill. Corresponding the construction period will also lengthen, but when there is no money, then there is nothing to choose. With sawdust - do what you want, they will come out once.
• The next option is sawing wild logs to order at home, i.e. a master on call to the master's courtyard. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, this is perhaps the best option: You can bring a mobile mini-sawmill (see below) to the place of work in a car, so the cost of sawing is acceptable for both parties. Sawdust is a problem for the owner, and a small one, because they are thrown out to him on the site, too, once. The master does not have a headache from them, i.e. you can register, eg. IP-carpenter and work in white.

Design features

The main feature of the sawmill is that it is always washed down longitudinally. It's common knowledge how much more difficult it is to cut wood along the grain. Unlike circular saw the sawmill deals not with measuring boards and beams, but with wild logs in general irregular shape... Therefore, in the sawmills, the saw carriage with the working body (the saw itself) moves along the sawn log; otherwise, it is very difficult to ensure the accuracy and cleanliness of the gash. At large timber processing enterprises there are also sawmills for sawing very long logs (up to 30, and in the tropics up to 60-70 m). In them, the carriage is stationary, and the log is moved by the hydraulic system; the alignment of the scaffold is provided by a computer with sensors. But at home, such a decision is unrealistic.

Note: sawing of logs is always carried out in the direction of convergence of wood fibers, i.e. from the butt to the top. If you run the carriage the other way around, then any saw (see below) will certainly get stuck in a tree and / or break.

How to cut?

How affordable a home-made sawmill will be for manufacturing, durable, convenient and safe in operation is mainly determined by the design of its working body. Another essential condition is the requirements for the productivity of the machine and its mode of operation (regularly, from case to case). The third is the resource of the working body and the possibility of its replacement. And, finally, energy supply at the place of work is of no small importance: what is more affordable there - electricity or motor fuel? There are also less essential additional conditions, see below.

In sawmills of small and medium productivity (up to 3-5 cubic meters of wood for 6 hours. Work shift), a trace is used. types of working bodies:

• Reciprocating saw bar (old).
• Saw blade (item 1 in the figure below).
• Saw blade (item 2).
• Saw chain (item 3).
• Continuous chain saw bar (new, item 4).
• Household chainsaw (item 5).

How to drink it down?

The orientation of the cutting surface can be horizontal or vertical. Corresponding and the saw will be horizontal or vertical, and the sawmill is horizontal or vertical. Vertical gash, firstly, reduces material waste, because it is enough to level the log under it only in the horizontal plane. For horizontal sawing, a log needs to be leveled both horizontally and vertically to minimize waste, otherwise too much wood will go into the slab. Secondly, when sawing vertically, sawed off (the cut off part of the log) does not put pressure on the working body and clings to it much less. Therefore, to cut the same timber vertically, the drive power is 2-3 times less than horizontally, see the video below:

Video: homemade vertical chain sawmill

But, firstly, the injury hazard of vertical sawmills is much higher than horizontal ones. Secondly, the transverse feed of the log under the saw of a vertical sawmill is structurally and technically very difficult, and it is extremely difficult or completely impossible to ensure the maximum permissible cutting accuracy according to TU up to 6 mm per 6 m of log length on a self-made vertical sawmill. Therefore, it is better to build a sawmill with your own hands for a horizontal gash.

Sawmill design

Let's talk a little further about the features of this or that saw for a sawmill. First you need to understand the structure of the sawing machine as a whole. It consists of:

1. working body - saws (see above and below);
2. drive to it from the motor;
3. saw carriage;
4. rail track (guide) for it;
5. gun carriage (lodgement) for a log;
6. grips-holders for him;
7. a frame that combines all of this into a single unit and provides its overall strength and reliability.

Note: certain structural units of the sawmill can be made in one piece with the frame.

The drawings of the sawmill in full structural composition (layout diagram) are shown in Fig.:

Its features are, firstly, a frame made of wooden beams... Secondly, the minimum welding works when assembling. This is an important point: the metal structure during welding leads; Because of this, it is very problematic to fit the accuracy of sawing with a welded sawmill in TU. Thirdly, the carriage rail track (item 13 on the right) is made of a steel angle, which is cheaper than the channel; the necessary track stability is ensured by rigid fastening of the rails to the frame. As a result, the support shoes of the carriage are pairs of conventional rolling bearings, and the smoothness and accuracy of its movement are high; carriage tremors are the main cause of sawing faults. Another consequence is the feed mechanism of the carriage without transmission (chain, screw, etc.), which also increases the smoothness of its movement. Finally, in a carriage of this design, it is possible to install a drive with any saw from the above for a horizontal saw; disc, with a tire of continuous action and a chainsaw, also for vertical.

The disadvantage of this machine is the comb-type log holders. It is impossible to make them from a channel less than 60 mm, they will not hold the timber. That is, the last croaker that is not suitable for business will turn out to be no thinner than 60 mm. Additionally, the waste of material will increase because the vertical alignment of the log in this machine is impossible. However, it is not so difficult to get rid of these shortcomings by using a separate carriage for a log of a simple design, see below.

Some explanations are required by the operation of the unit for setting the thickness of the sawn-off (on the inset), which in this machine is quite simple, accurate and easy to use. Nuts 5 on the inset are welded to the base plate 4 and counterclockwise. After the first saw off, the adjusting screws (pos. 1 in the inset and 11 on the right) rotate synchronously, because they are connected by a chain drive (pos. 20 on the right). The locknuts (pos. 2 in the inset) do not need to be released: they themselves will loosen. When the saw is set to a new position below the previous one, the locknuts are tightened by hand.

Saw like a saw - rip

A reciprocating saw bar is nothing more than a carpentry rip saw blade. Its drawing, tooth profiling and wiring diagram are given in Fig. on right. The drive in the sawmill is from the flywheel to the crank mechanism through the slider - a smooth steel rod sliding in a cage with bronze or babbitt liners (this is exactly what is shown in the figure above with the layout diagram of the sawmill). In the old days, craftsmen used archery saw blades instead of a saw bar; they saw along and along, and they could be bought in almost any tool store. In this case, the tension of the blade on the return stroke is provided by a sufficiently strong return spring.

The advantage of a reciprocating saw bar is a smooth clean cut with a width of no more than 3 mm, i.e. small waste of material. The resource is very solid, no less than that of a saw blade, see below. But there are a lot of disadvantages:

• Poor performance: if the feed of the carriage in the reverse motion of the saw exceeds 1/3 of the tooth height, i.e. 4 mm, the saw jams.
• It is impossible to cut a log with a diameter of more than 300-320 mm - the canvas immediately gets stuck and wrinkled.
• A damp, unseasoned tree does not take, it also immediately gets stuck and breaks.
• Very often gets stuck on knots and twigs.
• With insufficient tension on the return stroke, the cut deteriorates sharply - it becomes wide and ragged.
• The same - with an excessively strong return spring.

In professional wood processing, reciprocating saw tires fell out of use by the end of the 19th century, and among amateurs - with the advent of chainsaws in everyday life.

Disk

A saw blade from a circular saw will not fit in the sawmill: it is made of steel of inferior quality than is required in this case. When cutting raw logs, the disc material from the circular will soon release itself due to heating, the disc will quickly fail or be completely blown apart. That's why saw blade for a sawmill, pleasure is not cheap. In some sources, you can find advice: they say, cut out a round from galvanized (!) Or duralumin (!!!), fix 2-4 teeth on it, and saw. Judging by the fact that the authors of publications of this kind seem to be alive and not mutilated, they themselves did not do this and have no idea what could come of it.

Circular sawing of wood is widespread in professional woodworking, because allows you to cut several pieces of measured sawn timber from the forest in one pass; for this, angular and multi-blade saw carriages are used (inset at the top left in the figure). However, industrial disk sawmill- a complex structure, see fig., On the topic "with your own hands" does not pass in any way.

An amateur, if he gets hold of a disk for a sawmill (diameter from 600 mm, the profile of the teeth is the same as that of a longitudinal saw, see above), you need to keep in mind the following advantages and disadvantages:

• Large resource - up to 5000 hours and more; up to 1500-2000 hours between teeth regrinding.
• For sharpening, you definitely need sharpening machine, you can't do it manually.
• The cut is not very even, 3-5 mm wide, i.e. waste material up to 10-12% by volume. A "clean cut" disc that gives a 2-5% waste is 3-10 times more expensive than a simple one.
• You can saw without any technical breaks for the entire 6 hours. shift; maximum performance in this class of devices.
• High power consumption, because the disc rubs against the tree both vertically and horizontally in the gash with the side surface of a large area. To obtain the required drive power in kW, multiply the diameter of the log in dm by 1.7.
• The quality and condition of the sawmill being processed does not practically affect the performance.
• With a disc with a diameter of 800 mm, you can cut a log with a diameter of up to 350 mm.
• Discs larger diameter in amateur constructions are very dangerous, tk. require a high-precision drive to avoid beating.
• The drive is only electric, because the idle disc should rotate absolutely smoothly. There is more than enough tug for him in the tree.

In general, a do-it-yourself circular sawmill is definitely not an option. Consider the drawings in Fig. below. The first thing that catches your eye on the left is a carriage on rollers in channel rails. This is not a track made of milled profiles: skewing of the rollers by 1-2 mm when moving the carriage is inevitable. The consequence is the skew of the disc by 6 mm or more. Immediately - it gets stuck in a tree. Considering the mass of the disk, its rotation speed and moment of inertia, an emergency and extremely traumatic situation is inevitable.

Further, the lower edge of the disc must fit into the groove of the log carriage, otherwise it will not finish it to the end. And so, we sawed off the first hump. What's next? In theory, several grooves in the carriage are needed according to the thickness of the boards obtained. After each gash, either the carriage rises, moves forward and again lowers to the working position, or the carriage with a log must be moved under it in the same way. Can you imagine such a design made at home? Don't, my head will hurt a lot.

And if simply? Just move the log on the carriage? No, not easy. It must be laid down again so that the next cut is exactly parallel to the previous one. And on the gun carriage is not a stick, there is a hefty heavy block of wood.

Well, let's say our family / staff are heroic, we can't handle the logs, and the loss of productivity because of this is acceptable. Then we look at what is marked there in red in the drawing on the right in Fig. Yes, this is a log holder. Without it, it will either roll off the gun carriage, or overturn when 2-3 blocks are sawn off ( not edged boards in the whole forest for dissolution on measuring boards). The holder falls in the very middle of the log. You cannot cut on it. In total, the most valuable, wide, strong and most evenly drying out core block is likely to go to waste, because due to the shifting of the log, it will turn out to be inadmissibly converging to the wedge in thickness.

Note: an amateur single-disk sawmill on a horizontal saw is not at all more convenient and not more productive than a vertical one, but structurally it is much more complicated and dangerous.

So, a circular sawmill for making your own hands is an option in one and only case: if you come up with an improvement of it in the rank of a commercially promising invention and you need to test the idea in hardware in order to apply for a patent. In all others, it is not necessary.

Saw tape

The band sawmill is one of the inventions that give a meaningful result trivial technical solutions... The reciprocating longitudinal saw has a lot of advantages, and its disadvantages are mainly due to the presence of a reverse stroke. So you need to get rid of it to get a continuous saw blade. As a result, the operational properties of the band sawmill differ significantly from those of the prototype and similar machines:

1. Productivity - up to average, 2-3 cubic meters. m of wood per shift.
2. Saws both aged and raw freshly cut round timber.
3. The cleanliness of the cut is as high as that of the longitudinal saw blade, and the waste of the material is just as low.
4. Cutting accuracy is as high as that of a circular sawmill, provided that the band is tensioned at the optimum level.
5. Sawing logs immediately into pieces of measured materials is not possible.
6. Energy consumption for 1 cubic meter m of wood is 1.2-1.5 times lower than that of a circular sawmill.
7. In order to avoid self-tempering of the tape material, technical breaks are required: after each wash down for 5-10 minutes; after sawing 0.5 cu. m (2 logs with a diameter of 0.3 m and 6 m long) - 10-15 minutes; after 2 hours of work - half an hour or an hour; from a 6-hour shift to the next. the same - at least 2 hours.
8. Full resource of the working body (tape) - 100-500 hours; resharpening is not possible.
9. The cost of a band per hour of work is much less than a simple saw blade.
10. The cost of the entire machine is several times less than that of a disk with an angular carriage for one saw.
11. The drive is electric, because the smoothness of idling of the tape needs to be as high as for the disc.

Due to these features, the band sawmill finds the most wide application in small sawmills. For most of the ads: "We accept krgulyak / logs for sawing", it is the band sawmills that work. In Russia, band sawmills are produced in a fairly wide range ("Taiga", etc.).

The easiest way to make a rip saw is to roll its blade into a ring and put it on the pulleys, pos. 1 per next. fig .. To avoid injury, a protective cover is put on the working body with a non-working blade branch. Making a sawmill with a band without it (pos. 2) is extremely dangerous!

The second sticking point for DIYers here is the belt pulleys. The branded profile of the side surface (working) is a special slightly convex. The tape slides off the cylindrical pulley; flanges do not help. Some craftsmen tilt the entire saw unit upward by 1-3 degrees from this. However, a little the tension of the tape will weaken (which is possible during one cut), the tape will fly off from above; without a protective cover it is even more dangerous than slipping underneath.

The clever craftsmen found a way out: the tape is put on the wheels from cars and motorcycles with tires, pos. 3 in Fig. and fig. at the beginning. Their profile almost exactly matches the required one, and the elasticity of the tightly inflated chambers ensures optimal belt tension, at least for cutting a whole log. In addition, if thin enough high-quality materials are sawn, then you can get by with the simplest friction drive, also pos. 3 fig. on right. The manufacture of the machine is also simplified, since auto-moto wheels are already balanced enough, see video:

Video: DIY band sawmill

Saw transmission

When sawing raw, untreated logs and knotty / twisted and viscous fine-grained wood, the drive-to-belt transmission (main) also turns out to be a stumbling block. The mechanical characteristic of the belt is too soft: the belt is elastic and can slip. Toothed, on the contrary, is too hard: for a moment before jamming, the gears give a sharp strong jerk. In either case, it is very likely that the tape will get stuck in the tree and be crushed, which immediately creates a dangerous situation.

The best final drive for a band sawmill is a chain drive. It provides idling of the belt almost as smooth as the belt. And when sawing a "bad" tree, the chain's own inertia pulls the tape with small frequent jerks, and the inhomogeneities of the wood are successfully overcome. The same property of the chain drive is used, for example. in screw wood splitters.

Chain instead of tape

Working body chain sawmill- chain with saw teeth, stretched on rollers. Its operational strength, resource and reliability (not prone to getting stuck on wood defects) is several times greater than that of strips, and the cost per cut to wear is lower. The saw chain must be re-sharpened (a sharpening machine is needed!) And does not require maintenance breaks during the shift. The drive is possible non-volatile from a 1-2 cylinder 2-stroke internal combustion engine: the saw chain itself dampens its vibrations. In terms of safety, the chain sawmill is the best in this segment of production equipment.

Disadvantages, firstly, the increased power consumption compared to the belt - the chain casing rubs against the wood, although not as much as the disc. The second is a wide (4-6 mm and more) rather ragged cut: sawn timber from a chain sawmill needs sanding (therefore, a surface grinding machine - a grinder is often built into it) or will go on sale as the second grade. Consequence: increased waste of material, up to 15% by volume. The third - it is necessary to supply coolant (cutting fluid, emulsion) to the saw chain in continuous operation, see fig. The fourth is a large technical break between shifts for self-healing of the chain properties: at least 10 hours. And, finally, the high labor intensity of maintenance: regrinding and / or replacing the chain teeth are required every 10-50 hours of work, and fuss with them - Mom, don't worry!

Due to these circumstances, chain sawmills are used preim. for primary sawing of timber at stock exchanges and at harvesting sites. In the latter case, the decisive role is played by the non-volatility of the machine with the internal combustion engine: it is brought in by truck or tractor, scaffolding is dismantled and taken away. In the remote regions of the Russian Federation and Canada, the loss of timber is often more than offset by savings on the transportation of round timber by timber trucks. But, of course, this approach does not benefit the forest as a living community. And from unnecessary felling, and from clogging with sawdust.

Tire new

The continuous saw bar is a cantilever chain saw, i.e. does not require tension at the end farthest from the drive; also does not need coolant supply. Do you recognize? This is the "blade" of the chainsaw. The use of modern materials and continuous improvement of the design made it possible to create chainsaws that are suitable for domestic use in all respects. A sawmill from a chainsaw at home is also made much easier than any other; drawings of the bed with rails and a log holder can be taken, and the carriages for a household chainsaw. Its performance and features (except for the resource) will be approx. the same as for a chain sawmill. The changeover from a horizontal to a vertical cut is carried out simply by repositioning the carriage. But consider:

• The saw motor will be reduced by approx. twice.
• The full resource of the "canvas" of the best models will be no more than 20-30 hours, and the cheapest ones - 10-12 hours.
• Every 2-3 hours a regrinding will be required, and every 4-6 hours a replacement of teeth (if it is possible for this sample).
• The total working time during the day is 2-3 hours.
• Maintenance break to the next shift - from 12 hours.
• The saw must be designed for both cross and longitudinal cuts.

The last circumstance, as Comrade Sukhov would say, is a delicate matter. For models from leading manufacturers (Stihl, for example), both cuts are provided by default, but the longitudinal resource is given for normal use: 15 minutes of work, half an hour of rest. It is impossible to withstand it in the sawmill, because it is impossible to stop the carriage while the sawing is in progress. In this case, the resource of the guide bar is reduced by half or three times. In the case of "alternative" manufacturers, the opposite is often the case: the default is only a cross-cut saw. If the user's manual says "transverse and longitudinal", "also longitudinal", etc., then the resource for the longitudinal cut is not specified. Keep in mind.

Special continuous saw bars are available for sawmills. Due to the rejection of the transverse cut, their removal (length) is greater, up to 1000-1200 mm, the cut is thinner (3-4 mm) and cleaner; virtually the same as a band saw. Resource and mode of use - like a saw chain. A sawmill with a tire can be of a conventional design (on the left in the figure), but in the context of self-made ones, a tire sawmill of the Logosol type is of much greater interest, center-right in Fig. Spring edge supports keep the log from rolling. The elevators are individually adjustable, which allows the log to be leveled horizontally.

The history of Logosol is interesting and inextricably linked with ours. In the USSR, since the 30s, the export of unprocessed timber was strictly regulated and was carried out in large batches through established channels. After its collapse, the former Soviet republics, possessing forest reserves, literally filled Europe with cheap round timber with norms, even from a log. In the EU, most of its own logging takes place in Germany and Switzerland in the Alps. There are enough smart wood craftsmen here and there, and they are accustomed to working on an acute shortage of raw materials. At the local prices for timber, the calculation of income from the purchase of wild woods and sawing into a plank-timber in their yard gave results that made the eyes go back to their heads. Plus - there is no headache with sawdust disposal, but there is a significant additional benefit from their sale. It was then that the Swiss Bengt-Olof Buström invented the sawmill, which he called Logosol. Its highlight is the replacement of a technologically complex rail track with a smooth guide, along which the carriage is moved manually with a clamp. This requires more work and some skill, but the construction of the sawmill is simplified a lot, and its cost drops significantly. Amateurs have developed many modifications of Buström's undoubtedly successful design. Their drawings of Logosols and nodes to them can be taken openly from here: //www.logosol.su/files.htm. And how to make a Logosol sawmill with your own hands, see the video:

Video: do-it-yourself mobile-stationary Logosol "Terya"

The appearance of Logosol is the direct reason for the development of saw bars for sawmills. There are their models on sale that are interfaced with household chainsaws: we remove the standard blade, put the tire. Thus, the matter with the cost and labor intensity of the drive was decided: a chainsaw on the farm is already a necessary thing.

Mini

Further development of the idea of ​​Logosol - a mini sawmill without a bed, guide and rails, see fig. on right. An existing saw cut is used instead of a guide; with accurate hand sawing, its accuracy within the log is maintained. In this case, in addition to the tire and the drive, only the support platform and the handles for holding and moving remain on the carriage.

The pioneer gash is made according to a template (a flat board, top right in the figure), a channel, a frame from a corner, etc., longer than a log. Subsequent horizontal ones - according to the previous one, in the center to the right. If you need a vertical gash, place a channel (bottom right), because in this case, a flat side support surface is needed. However, all this does not eliminate the last problems: the installation of the log on the carriage, its alignment and retention.

Carriage, grippers, clamps

There remained such a problem as a bed with additional nodes. The one in pos. 1 fig. the left is far from optimal. It is too complicated and expensive for one-time sawing on a self-construction site. It is also not suitable for long-term regular use: even if the supporting frame is made of a 200-mm channel, it will not sink in the first or second ten of the logs, which means that the machine is completely unusable. A stationary sawmill must be made with a separate concreted rail track and a carriage for a log (pos. 2; in this case, we will not focus on safety precautions - the topic of this article is different).

The next tasks are leveling and holding the log. In industrial woodworking, hydraulic jacks with hooks are used for this. The log is hung out on the telpher, lowered onto the carriage without touching, the jacks turn on and grab it tightly. In the automated carriages, the log is placed on it and the hydraulics immediately aligns the timber according to the signals from the sensors.

In amateur conditions, the first is hardly feasible; the second is in no way feasible. In many home-made sawmills, log grabs are made as shown in fig. below. The log is hung out on auto-jacks (see below), hooks are brought to it, sliding along the guide (pipe, thick rod). The hooks are knocked down with a hammer on the principle of "lightly tapping with a sledgehammer", they wedge on the guides and hold the log.

Firstly, such a fastening is simply dangerous: vibrations during sawing can cause the grippers to wedge, and this is an accident, most likely with serious consequences. Secondly, it is impossible to grab the wood by the very "bottom" in this way. This means that you will have to turn the log over without finishing it halfway. As a result, the quality of sawing and material waste will be the same as on a vertical single-disk sawmill, see above.

Carriage

Let's try to work out technical requirements for a log carriage, suitable for incl. for use with a portable mini-sawmill when working on the road:

1. materials - ordinary rolled metal without preliminary screening for evenness;
2. for strength, reliability and durability - welded;
3. the effect of the quality of welding and metal warpage from it on the quality of sawing is absent;
4. prepared base (support) surface - not required;
5. weight and dimensions - suitable for transportation in a mini-truck, pickup and on the upper trunk of a passenger car;
6. the maximum length of the processed log - 6 m;
7. its maximum diameter is up to 1 m;
8. alignment and hanging of a log - in any way independent of the gun carriage, see below;
9. the influence of the evenness of the carriage along the horizon on the quality of sawing - no;
10. the reliability of keeping the most gnarled, unrooted forest is absolute;
11. the possibility of dissolving the sawn timber blocks onto edged measuring boards / beams without changing the sawmill is a must;
12. safety - sufficient for non-production conditions, when access to the site of untrained outsiders is easily controlled.

Drawings of a carriage of a log for a sawmill, incl. mini, satisfying the specified conditions, are given in Fig. (left / center - top view). Material - channel 120x60, bar 14 and 16 mm.

Exactly under the holes M14 in the upper flange of the channel in the lower one, holes D15 are drilled for the passage of the shanks of the hook-holders (on the right in the figure). The M16 holes in the bottom shelf (marked in green) are for threaded legs. The configuration in plan and the location of the grippers-holders allow you to securely hold both full-length logs and short blocks. They use this gun carriage as follows:

• the log is hung and leveled on a pair of jacks. Option - one jacks in turn: put something suitable under the raised end, rearrange the jack and raise the other;
• the carriage is slipped under the middle of the log with the broadened part to the butt and aligned along the axis of the timber. If the log was hung out on a telpher, then the middle pair of legs should fall under its center of gravity;
• the hooks-holders are turned out until the log touches so that their points look inward exactly at each other. An overshoot by one revolution (per thread pitch M14) does not affect the sawing accuracy;
• the log is lowered onto hooks. If the timber was hung on one jack and a support, then first release the jack, and then knock out the support with one sharp blow;
• to securely hold a thin, light log, you can sit on it and jump;
• sawing a log with any sawmill with horizontal cuts. The overwhelming majority of the thickness of the last slab will not exceed 40 mm.

Clamps

The full functionality of this carriage will be provided by 2-5 clamps (almost always 3 clamps are enough) for sawing blocks into measured sawn timber. The design of the clamp to the log carriage is clear from Fig. below. The clamps are bolted into the standard holes of the M14 carriage, therefore their bases and the distances between the axes of the fastening holes are different: unlike the hook-holders, the clamps are not interchangeable! Before dissolving into boards / beams, the logs are first cut into blocks. Then the blocks are sorted and collected in packages of blocks of similar configuration to each other. The next package is clamped with clamps on a gun carriage and dismissed onto boards / beams with horizontal cuts.

Outcome

Like, as they say, grandmother: what kind of sawmill to make with your own hands and in what cases it makes sense.

If you see a circle of clientele for sawing and / or see a stable income from the sale of sawn timber - belt on car wheels. It will last at least until there is enough money to buy a "new, good" factory. Then it will be possible to open the sawmill in all shape and calmly work legally. If sawing wood is an auxiliary activity for you, the Logosol sawmill will show itself better - it is less productive, but structurally simpler and cheaper, and a chainsaw will come in handy on the farm anyway.

You can buy a home sawmill today at any construction market... However, such a device is not very cheap. Therefore, home craftsmen, having studied all the intricacies of this device, having viewed the materials that are given on the Internet, produce homemade mini-sawmills. To do this, you need to have the appropriate material and locksmith experience.

For work, you need to use only quality material, since if the bed is made of thin pipes or small corners, it may fail. The worker can be seriously injured.

Where to start the work process

To equip any kind of mini sawmill, you need to have the following materials and tools:

• channel;
• pipes;
• sheet steel;
• metal corner;
• bars;
• Circular Saw;
• electric motor;
• welding machine;
• drill;
• bolts;
• spanners;
• pliers.

Of course, the productivity of factory samples of a mini sawmill is much higher than a home-made device. And yet, in homemade products, the most necessary properties are laid that suit a particular owner. Before you start making a mini sawmill, you need to determine the future parameters:

1. It is very important to calculate what performance the device will have. To do this, you will need to determine the volume of wood that will need to be processed.
2. Approximate dimensions of the workpieces.
3. Transportation methods. It is possible that the frame sawmill will have a stationary appearance.
4. Food - petrol or electricity.

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Mini disk sawmill

A sawmill that does a particular business most often uses a circular sawmill. This is the simplest type of device, it is easy to make it yourself. This will require the simplest blanks.

Such a mini disk sawmill is fundamentally different from similar devices. The whole construction is based on a circular saw. It is fixed in two ways:

• on the spindle shaft;
• on the axis of the electric motor.

The simplest form should be:

• table;
• circular saw;
• engine.

The table is considered the basis of the entire structure. For it, a frame is made of metal corners bolted or welded. The top of the table is a steel plate with dimensions of 200 x 4 mm. Sometimes such a plate is made prefabricated. All parts are fastened together with bolts and nuts.

Note that the base of the mini sawmill can be made of wood or metal corners. A base made of thick boards is worse than steel in only one case. If the sawmill is constantly in the open air, then the boards will quickly rot, even an antiseptic will not help. All other qualities are superior to an iron base, since it is very easy to process wood on solid boards.

To fix the saw, the plates have a special hole into which the circular saw is inserted. The holes made in the table are countersunk and then bolted together. The saw must be fastened so that it is exactly in the center of the entire structure. It is attached through the holes in the plates and the table.

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How a mini sawmill works

The main parts of the mini tire sawmill are:

• bed (frame);
• drive unit;
• fastening parts;
• bus together with a chain.

The frame is the most important detail... This is the base of the fixture that holds all the rig. The safety of work, the final result of the entire operation, largely depends on the reliability of the frame, its stability. The length of the frame is selected individually. This value is in direct proportion to the dimensions of the workpieces being processed.

The strength parts of the frame can be:

• corners;
• channel;
• Tavr.

The shelf thickness of such fasteners must be higher than 3 mm. It is this size that can withstand heavy loads.

Motor. Without this part, the mini sawmill will be dead. For a home sawmill, it will be enough to install a powerful three-phase electric motor. Even a professional chainsaw can do the job. It is easy to attach to the moving carriage. Electric saws are not suitable for such work, they have too little power.

Fasteners. For sawing, the fixing of the log should be carried out on a stationary device. The choice of hardware depends on the mass of future workpieces. The possibility of quick fastening shall be provided.

The bus usually has standard sizes- 50 cm.

It is better to buy it together with a chain. Such a device will allow you to get minimum thickness cut, which means waste is minimized, and the efficiency of the sawmill will increase.

You can make a saw yourself. To do this, you need to re-sharpen the blade of a mechanical hacksaw, designed for working with metal. Canvas dimensions - 40x450 mm. Teeth cutting is performed cutting disc special angle grinder. The set of teeth is done pointwise after preheating welding torch... The sharpener will help you create the desired shape of the saw. The original teeth, which have not been machined, can be left.

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DIY chain sawmill

A home sawmill consists of several basic parts:

• frame;
• guides;
• engine.

To make a sawmill with a bar chain, you need to fasten the steel frame together with the saw bar. The distance from the tire to the frame corresponds to the thickness of the workpiece to be machined. Therefore, such a thickness must be foreseen in advance and laid down in the drawing of the chain sawmill.

If you make a customizable distance from the tire to the frame, you can cut a wide variety of boards, with different dimensions.

The base should have guides along which it will move in the vertical direction. To attach the base to the posts, plates with holes are welded. After installation the right size the base is fixed with bolts and nuts.

When choosing an engine, its power must be taken into account. It must be at least 3 kW. The motor should run in the most economical mode.

It is difficult to answer how reliably and efficiently the self-made sawmill will work. It all depends on the home "Kulibin" and his skill.

The main requirement for structural reliability is rail guides. If ignored, the design is unreliable and dangerous. It is especially important to have an accessible and easy-to-use mechanism that fixes the logs.

Building a house out of wood or working as a carpenter requires special woodworking tools. And we are not talking about the "friendship" saw, but about the real band sawmill. Of course, you can buy already processed workpieces or purchase an industrial sawmill, but the price for all of this is very high. In this article we will talk about how a band sawmill is made with our own hands. The task is quite feasible, but it will take attention and perseverance.

General information

Wood as building material used from time immemorial. We can say that even nowadays many people prefer wooden houses in the private sector, rather than concrete ones. This is due to many reasons, but we are not talking about that. To speed up construction works and to cut costs, woodworking machines were invented. For the sawmill today there are great amount but they all carry out logging processing, only the methods are different.

If you have a do-it-yourself band sawmill, it can become an additional source of income. After all, you can easily take on private orders, and you will not deny yourself anything. Do you want a bathhouse or a gazebo? No problem, we take a blank, process it and start construction.

Why tape?

You are probably asking this question. As noted above, there is currently a huge selection, but we will stop there. The fact is that such a solution has a huge number of advantages. Firstly, this type of sawmill can work with any tree species, from deciduous to highly resinous. Secondly, the produced assortment is quite extensive, these are edged and non-edged boards, beams, veneer, carriage and much more.

You will be able to create blanks from which furniture, glued beams, boards, etc. will be made in the future. And in general, the workflow on the band sawmill is simplified. What is most important, given view sawing provides for minimal loss of logs to sawdust, which is very important point... If the do-it-yourself band sawmill is made correctly, then you will not see waves and bristles on the processed workpiece.

DIY band sawmill: drawings and design

Before proceeding directly to the practical part, you need to quickly familiarize yourself with the design and sketch out a few simple drawings. In general, the design scheme is designed in such a way that you can increase the layout of the equipment. That is, in the simplest version, you get an elementary band sawmill with manual feed of the workpiece, and in the most complex - a high-performance product with automation and sensors.

The basis of the sawmill is a frame with guides. Usually it is assembled with welded soles, where the movable rollers are placed. The bed is U-shaped in all cases and is assembled by welding two channels together. Accordingly, the drive pulley is fixed on one side of the frame in a stationary state, and the other on the other end in a movable state. The guides are mounted in the middle of the frame and represent a collapsible structure. This is very important if the equipment is planned to be transported. In general, a do-it-yourself band sawmill, the drawings of which you can find in this article, is not made so quickly. But such equipment has many strengths.

Homemade band sawmills with your own hands from A to Z

We can say that even the simplest home-made sawmill, provided that it is correctly assembled, has a unique design. The fact is that only this type of woodworking machine completely eliminates the damage to the bed as a result of the fall of a heavy workpiece. This is achieved through independently suspended guides.

What you should take care of is the choice of the cutting tool. In our case, a band saw is used, therefore, in fact, the equipment is called that. Its width can be up to 60 mm. It is tensioned by means of a spring-screw mechanism, which is very convenient, since it does not take much time. The saw band is installed and secured with two locks. They must be extremely reliable, pay attention to this if you are going to make homemade band sawmills. You should not make such locks with your own hands, it is better to buy.

The principle of operation of the device

The work cycle looks something like this:

• Preparation of the workpiece. At this stage, the logs are trimmed and shaped into the same shape.
• Workpiece processing. The operator sets up the equipment. If there is automatic equipment, then the necessary parameters are set, everything else is done by the sawmill.
• The final stage. This stage may not exist, depending on the presence of errors. If any were found on the treated logs, then the operator eliminates them.

In general, the principle of operation of the device is based on the fact that during processing the workpiece is stationary and is cut by a movable belt. It moves horizontally and is mounted on the driven and driven pulleys. To ensure a straight cut, it is extremely important to maintain the belt tension. The log is fixed between the guides using a special support. The equipment provides for the presence of an electronic ruler or hydraulics, which is necessary to obtain a workpiece of a certain thickness. The main handicraft: laying the log, turning and clamping it.

Sawmill manufacturing

As a basis for our future sawmill, it is necessary to take two channels. They should be 8 meters long and about 14 centimeters high. Of course, there is not always a suitable channel, so you can go the other way and use rails or corners of 50x100 mm. The main requirement is that the base is flat and free from bends. A number of holes are drilled along the entire length of the channels. In this case, you must strictly observe the specified step. We will build screeds based on the holes made. ”Pipe lengths are suitable for this. Their length should be about 25 centimeters. For connection, it is advisable to use pins or bolts 29-35 cm.

Do-it-yourself belt mini sawmill is installed on special racks. It is advisable to assemble them using M12 bolts. Pipes, corners or channel bars can be used as material. Accordingly, the longer the machine frame, the large quantity we need racks. In our case, 4 pieces are enough.

We continue assembly work

Now we have to make a movable cart. It consists of a metal plate 40-50 mm thick. Depending on the dimensions of the engine, its length is selected, optimally 550-600 cm. As for the width, the trolley should be such that the channels on each side protrude by about 70-80 mm.

Important details

In general, the manufacture of a band sawmill with your own hands is almost complete. Only a few small details remain. First of all, I would like to say a few words about the mobile cart. The fact is that to ensure movement along the guides, it is necessary to use plates and spacers. In this case, it is necessary to try to make the gap as small as possible. The thickness of the spacers is chosen so that it is 0.5 mm larger than the channel flange. The whole thing needs to be fastened with 8 M8 bolts.

Since a chain is used to move the motorized cart, it must be sufficiently tensioned. This is necessary to avoid free play of the handwheel. It is located on one of the bushings near the sprockets that sit on the edges of the rails.

Everyone should know

There is also such an option as a gasoline band sawmill. It is even easier to make it with your own hands. In this case, as a motor driving cutting tool in rotation, the chainsaw engine, rigidly fixed to the frame, will protrude. The functions of the tape are performed by a gasoline saw blade. In general, the design of such a saw is extremely simple, but at the same time quite functional.

It is also convenient to work with such a technique because of the well-thought-out fastening mechanism. It consists of pipes with an inner diameter of 35-40 mm into which movable rods are inserted. Clamps (from a 40x40 corner) and cam clamps are mounted on top.

Conclusion

It is easy to guess that the main elements of the sawmill are the engine and the saw. A low-power motor will not work for a serious bed. Try to get a 10 kW motor. It will be quite enough for the above construction. As for the saw, its diameter should be about a meter. In case you are having difficulty purchasing these components, it is recommended to reduce the size of the bed.

Here we are with you and talked about how to make a band sawmill with our own hands. Of course, making such a unit will not work at all without costs, but you can save a lot. In any case, it is advisable to be guided by the workpieces being processed. The larger they are, the more massive the frame and the sawmill as a whole will turn out. In the end, you can use the simplest design and use a chainsaw as a base. If you put everything together correctly, then the result will please you. Now you know how to assemble a band sawmill with your own hands, and you can use this knowledge.

When it becomes necessary to process a large volume of boards and wood, then the best option is the use of a sawmill, created with your own hands. Many are sure that it is worth buying a ready-made device, but making it yourself is not at all difficult at all. in this article we will talk about how to make a homemade sawmill. Photos of drawings in a large number are present on the Internet.

How to make a homemade sawmill

Before starting this process, you need to decide on the amount of work to be done, as well as on the wood. After that, you need to look for drawings of a homemade sawmill on the Internet and decide on the type of device for the successful implementation of this goal. When assembling a device with your own hands, the main attention should be paid to safety issues, since such a device is an object of increased risk.

A homemade sawmill resembles the rotation of two spools with a thread stretched between them. This thread is a saw, and the distance from one spool to another is optimal size logs. A self-made sawmill, the video of the creation of which is presented below, makes it possible:

• adjust logs to the same shape and size
• cut the workpiece according to specific scheme after fine tuning the equipment.

However, as a result of cutting, minor flaws are often obtained, which cannot be eliminated. For this reason, the tree must be additionally processed manually.

A homemade sawmill works in this way:

• the workpiece is firmly attached to the platform, which does not move
• the movement of the mobile trolley ensures the sawing of wood
• the saw is horizontal
• to obtain a specific size of boards, you must initially set the appropriate parameters
• the saw band is a saw, so it must be properly tensioned.

Homemade sawmill, video

A place for a homemade sawmill

Since a home-made sawmill is a large-sized and rather dangerous device, before making homemade sawmills with your own hands (you can watch the video of their creation on our website) you need to think carefully and decide where you will use such a device.

A shed or garage is best suited for this purpose, as well as any utility room with concrete base... The room for the sawmill must have good system airing. It should not be cramped and well lit.

It is fashionable to place the sawmill on the street, however, it is imperative to make a canopy for it. If you are planning to create a sawmill with an electric motor, then you need to be especially careful about the installation of wiring and all switches and automatic machines.

When assembling the unit with your own hands, pay special attention to its cutting and moving parts. They are the most dangerous parts.

When working with four roller saw frames, it is necessary to cut logs no shorter than 3 meters. If it becomes necessary to process shorter workpieces, the sawmill must be equipped with additional mechanisms. To work with workpieces less than 1.5 m, special eight roller frames must be used. Additional safety is guaranteed by the sawmill brake, which allows it to brake without recoil.

At the end of assembly and before starting to use, you must carefully check all fasteners and components, as well as the stability of the entire structure. Only then can the device be started.

How to make the right choice

During the choice of himself ideal option machine for woodworking, it is necessary to pay attention to the most important advantage of band saws in comparison with multi-blade circular saws, this advantage lies in the low cutting height.

The size of a saw cut in a circular sawmill often fluctuates within the range of 5-6.2 mm. The tire sawmill makes even more cuts. For example, you can see a cutting map for a thin log with a section of 180 mm and a material with a section of 124x35, it turns out that the total area of ​​the cut will be 4377 mm2. But if the log is 90x90, then 17.2% of the wood will become sawdust. If every month you process 900 m3 or more, then such a loss of wood will not be noticeable, because the volumes performed will compensate for the loss. But if the volume of production is not large, then you need to use technologies that are characterized by low productivity, but make it possible to saw blanks with minimal losses. Therefore, for small production volumes, it is better to use band sawmills, but not tire ones.

Using tape machine, the cut will be from 2.2 to 2.5 mm. With a billet with a section of 180 mm for the manufacture of sawn timber with a section of 124x35, the cutting area is 1765 mm2. In this case, only 6.9% of the wood will turn into sawdust.

Tire devices, which give a wide kerf, are used, most often, by private owners or small farms for processing minimum volumes of raw materials, at which the output of lumber is not important.