Here everything you need to know to build a chopped "in the paw" wooden house in plan size 6x8 m (6x6 m - its warm part and 6x2 m - veranda). Such a house is quite compact (which is important if your plot does not exceed 6 acres), but it is spacious enough and convenient in layout. However, we do not limit your desires, imaginations and possibilities only to this option. Having understood the technology of building a log house, using our practical advice and "little tricks", you can build any other chopped wooden house according to your taste. All construction work can be done together without the use of special complex mechanisms. Our description of the practical methods of making a log house to an experienced craftsman would seem overly detailed, but we hope that a novice builder will help to make his dream come true. Do-it-yourself house construction is wonderful way self-expression and outdoor activities!

Read the material carefully several times. This will allow you to clearly represent the entire technological process, all the work as a whole, and when erecting a log house, you no longer have to look at the book so often. Work will go faster and you will succeed!

The first thing that you need to learn is the professional language in which carpenters speak and in which we will communicate with you throughout the book. So let's start with the terminology.

It is known that a house should stand on a foundation, and one should start with it, but this is a slightly different topic, therefore, instead of a foundation, temporary linings are shown in the figure 1. When an opportunity arises (even after a few years), they will not prevent you foundation.

A log house is a log structure without a floor, lathing and a roof, that is, the main structural part of a house. It consists of several crowns, the number of which determines the height of the frame. The crown is a rectangular structure consisting of perpendicularly laid logs, fastened together at the corners with a lock connection.

The first crown of the log house is the flashing ring 2, the second and main one is the lower strapping 3, into which the logs are cut 4. The logs are pulled together bottom rail and carry the floor, and the cap serves to strengthen the lower strapping and protects it from decay. It can be replaced over time. The crowns from the lower trim to the beginning of the window opening are called window sills 5. Next are window crowns 6, then - above the windows. The first crown above the window is the closing crown 7. The structure that serves as the basis for the roof is called the upper trim. It consists of two upper girders 8 and a rafter 9. What are rafters 10 and corner verandah pillars 11 is clear from the figure.

Let's agree to call the logs in the crowns, lying perpendicular to the girders, transverse, and the crowns in which there are window or door openings - split. The logs that form the openings are called "shorty". They can be of different lengths depending on the location of the windows and doors.

Traditionally, as the log house was erected in Russia, logs were processed at a height. In some films you have probably seen how a carpenter, sitting astride a log, dashingly and quickly wielding an ax. Let's take a closer look at what operations it performs. First of all, he needs to drag the prepared log upstairs. Then, having made a markup, cut it down on it and lay the log in a designated place. Agree, such work at height requires a lot of qualifications and skill. As a novice carpenter, you are unlikely to be able to process a log with the required accuracy the first time. You will probably have to repeatedly remove and re-lay the log, adjusting it in place. The slightest carelessness during such manipulations leads to injuries. You can facilitate your work and significantly protect yourself by installing scaffolding. They need to be made comfortable and reliable, withstanding not only your weight, but also the weight of the processed log. Therefore, the installation of such scaffolding requires a lot of additional building material and time. But even if all the requirements are met, working at height with an ax (including scaffolding) without sufficient skill is dangerous!

We offer you to erect a log house in parts, each of which has the height of a human being. This method is called felling followed by re-laying. It consists in the fact that individual parts of the log house, after being made on the ground, are disassembled and transferred to the main log house. The shifts will allow you to carry out all work with the ax while standing on the ground, and you will not need external scaffolding. In this case, we use two transfers, since, in our opinion, it is the best option for the novice builder. Do not be confused by the time spent on additional disassembly and assembly of crowns. They are more than offset by the convenience and safety of work, for well and conveniently equipped workplace- a guarantee of high labor productivity. You will learn more about how the transfer is carried out later, but for now we will continue our acquaintance with the terminology.

The part of the tree trunk adjacent to the root is called the butt. When you start chopping down a house, you should know that there is no such thing as a perfectly straight log. Any log has skewness, that is, it decreases in diameter from the butt 1 to the top 2. Therefore, when laying logs one on top of the other, it is necessary to alternate butts and tops.

When assembling a log house, in order for one crown to adjoin the other more closely, a groove 3 is selected along the logs. Another frequently performed operation when processing logs is to make edging 4.

The end of a log, chipped off from two parallel sides, is called a "blockhead" 5, the resulting planes are cheeks 6, and an unworked, convex surface is wane 7.

The main structural elements logs, which serve as locking joints of the logs, are "paw" 8 and "dovetail" 9. For additional fastening of the logs in the crowns, a dowel 10 - pocket 11 connection is used, and the posts and rafters are securely installed using spikes 12.

You should pay special attention to the selection of the tool. The most important of them is the carpenter's ax 1. It should fit your weight and fit comfortably in your hand. The purpose of tools such as chisel 2, plumb bob 3, hacksaw 4, two-handed saw 5, staple 6, bayonet shovel 7, as well as tape measure 8, ruler 9, square 10, crayons or wax crayons 11 should not raise any questions. Low-stretch cord 12 and awl 13 are used for marking, and level 14 is used to check horizontal. To make a level, take an elastic rubber hose 5-8 m long with a diameter of about 1 cm, the ends of which are put on two transparent glass tubes of the same diameter 15-20 cm long. The resulting device is filled with tinted water. In addition to the level, you yourself need to make a template 15 of plexiglass with a thickness of 2-3 mm and line 16 - the main marking tools, as well as "babu" 17 - the main "percussion" tool made from a birch block with two staples driven into it.

If you have an opportunity to purchase a chainsaw, do not miss it. The chainsaw will greatly facilitate your work, save your energy and time.

To avoid injuries and other "troubles" during construction, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the pages of special work methods and safety precautions.

You need to start construction with logging. It is best to use conifers - pine and spruce. Aspen is good for making log cabins for baths and wells - it is not afraid of water. But birch cannot be used, as it quickly begins to rot and behaves very "capricious" during processing. Since it burns well and gives a lot of heat, save it for your fireplace. After the forest has been felled, it must be debarked and dried.

Structural element	Number of logs	Log length	Log diameter
Crown wreath			30 - 50 cm
Bottom strapping			30 - 50 cm
Lags	5-6 pcs	620 cm	20 - 35 cm
Window crowns	10-13 pcs	620 cm	20 - 40 cm
Split logs (window and door)	22-27 pcs	540 cm	20 - 35 cm
Closing and above-window crowns	5-9 pcs	620 cm	20 - 35 cm
Top purlins	2 pcs	820 cm	20 - 35 cm
Podstropilins	7-9 pcs	720 cm	20 - 35 cm
Rafters	14-18 pcs	520 cm	not less than 10 cm
Verandah pillars	not less than 2 pieces	300 cm	not less than 20 cm

Note: the specified dimensions are taken with a margin for facing.

Now we will choose a location for the construction site. From the side of the future veranda, it is necessary to provide a place for assembly component parts log house. Then you can start marking the plan of the future house, which is performed using a low-stretch cord and pegs. Our task is to get right angles.

The basic rule of the builder - markup determines quality

We will implement it as follows. Determine point 1. From it, set aside 800 cm and get point 2. On a cord 1600 cm long, measure 600 cm and tie a knot. We fix the ends of the cord at points 1 and 2. Taking the knot, stretch the cord and get the desired point 3. Similarly, we find the point 4. Mark the resulting points with pegs and check with a tape measure all the required distances and the equality of the diagonals with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm.

Next, we will make and install the lining for the log house (temporary foundation). Choose wood chocks that are about 1 m long and at least 30 cm in diameter. Aspen is good for linings. It is resistant to moisture if debarked first.

The spacers must be installed under the flange girders, near the corners of the frame, in order to ensure the correct distribution of the load. The installation of the pads is made according to the level with an accuracy of ~ 5 cm.

Edging is the most common operation when processing logs. In order to complete it, it is necessary to trim the log to size, choose the side for the edging, position the future plane of the edging approximately vertically, secure the log with staples. Do not be alarmed if the log is curved. This will not prevent you from using it.

Along the plumb line at the ends of the log, we draw vertical lines that define the edge plane.

We fasten the cord with an awl in the plane of the edging. Then we make a visual check, looking from the end of the log, and adjust the position of the cord. Using a colored pencil, transfer the projection of the cord onto the log. To obtain the second edge line, repeat the same operations, turning the log over.

After that, we fix the log for chipping with staples, but not strongly, so that you do not have to knock them out later with a crowbar. We place the plane of the future edging vertically, make notches and, having cut the log, we get the edging.

Having a chainsaw, instead of notches, you can make cuts, which will significantly speed up the work.

Finally, let's proceed directly to the manufacture of a log house. We begin to make a frame with eight-meter logs (girders) of the flap, on one side of which a piping about 10 cm wide is made. The edging of the flap will rest on the lining with the edging. Now we need to process the ends of the runs.

First, we cut down the "dummies" with a width of 2 / 3-3 / 4 of the diameter of the log. The length of the "blockhead" L is a constant value equal to the maximum diameter of the logs.

At the end of the "boob", select point 1, through it, according to the template, draw a line of the "paws" with an extension inside the house.

Similarly, using the template, through point 2 on the outer cheek and through point 3 on the inner cheek, draw a line of "paws".

Draw vertical lines on the cheeks of the log, spaced from the end by the width of the "dummy" of the reciprocal log, and we get points 4 and 5. We make a vertical cut down to line 4-5.

Then it is necessary to lay the transverse logs with "blockheads" on the "legs" of the girders and, fixing them with staples, check and correct the dimensions of the frame.

Now you can staple the purlins with backings tightly with staples.

Sketching is a parallel transfer of the points of the fillet lines of the lower log to the upper one. The solution of the line when drawing in the "paw" of the crown crown is chosen to be minimal, but such that the line of the "paw" of the transverse log does not fall on the wane.

In the process of tracing a log, the solution of the trait cannot be changed! Draw the lines from top to bottom, mark the top of the "paw", and then cut it down. Let's make an average "blockhead" on the runs.

To simplify the cutting of the cheeks of the middle "blockhead", we will make saws.

Along the width of the "dummy" of the transverse log, we cut down the "dovetail" in the run. With the help of a line, transfer the “dovetail” line to the “blockhead” of the transverse log and cut it down. We lay the middle transverse log on the girders.

Now we will deal with the bottom strapping. Let's make "dummies" on the girders of the lower harness, put them over the girders of the flange. Using pads and a level, it is necessary to ensure that the upper parts of the purlins are horizontal and lie in the same plane with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm. It should be borne in mind that butts and tops in the crowns alternate. We fix the girders with staples.

For sketching, select the line solution corresponding to the maximum gap between the logs, plus 1-1.5 cm.

Let's check the selected solution of the line along the ends of the log. It should be greater than 1-2 at both ends. Point 2 is the border of the wane and the inner cheek.

Let's mark the top of the "paws" for transverse logs.

For further work, we need to master the operation of sampling a groove. We will make cruciform notches along the entire length of the groove with the "heel" of the ax, and select wood with the "toe" of the ax along the lines of the groove. A combination of these two operations creates a groove.

After that, you should cut out the "paws" and, having laid the log in place, check the tightness of its fit. For this, the log to be laid must lie on the inner cheeks with a slight overhang. When tipping over, it will easily lie on Right place... Then we return the log to its original position and evenly lay the underlying log with tow (moss). Now you can finally lay the top log on it.

Next, three transverse logs of the lower harness should be made and laid on the girders. To complete the lower strapping, it remains only to cut in the logs. On the girders of the lower strapping, we outline the places of the lag insertion. As the zero mark (the upper level of the lag), we select approximately the middle of the transverse log of the lower harness. We will transfer the zero mark to the corners of the log house and make notches. We put the finished logs in place, outline, and then cut out their contour to the level of the inset. Let's score the lags with a "woman".

In the process of work, you may encounter typical errors.

The log is "playing" (the gap between the "paws", the log is loose in the groove):

the reason is a knot on the lower log or poor groove selection; correction - cut off the knots on the lower log, tap the upper log with a "woman", select the places of wrinkles in the groove.

The gap between the "paws":

the reason - the opening of the line when drawing the "paw" was more than the opening of the line when drawing the groove, or there was a "blockage" of the line; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap, draw a groove on both sides of the log and make a selection.

The log "hangs" on the "legs" (loose fit of the log in the groove, there is no gap between the "legs"):

the reason - the solution of the line when drawing in the groove is greater than the solution of the line when drawing the "paw"; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap 1, draw "paws" 2 and trim them.

It should be said that the following dimensions of the gaps are permissible: in the "paw" - 0.5 cm, in the groove - 1.5 cm.

Now it's the turn of laying the first window sill crown. First, let's mark up doorway... It should be noted that openings (both window and door) are made 5-10 cm less than the design size. Split logs are fixed with dowels, for which markings are applied on both sides of the logs.

To mark the centerlines of the dowel on both logs, it is necessary to remove the "shorty" (log in a split crown). Then, along the center line with a chisel, pockets are selected for the dowel. The total pocket depth should be 1 cm greater than the dowel height. The dowel should fit tightly into the pocket.

When laying the crowns, you should constantly check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line. The last crown in the window doorway goes uncut. The uncut log of this crown is also planted on two dowels.

Tow (moss) does not fit under the logs of the last window-sill crown, since this crown is removed for the first transfer. Starting the transfer, first from zero level set aside the same distance and make notches at the corners of the removable crown. Then we remove the last crown from the window sill and set it on the ground, placing pads 15-20 cm high. In this case, the verticality of the cheeks must be observed. Using a level, we restore the horizontalness of the crown along the notches. Let's check the equality of the diagonals in the corners.

Let's start laying out window rims, having marked out the window openings in advance. Recommended height of openings: windows - 110-130 cm, doors - 180-190 cm. "Shorties" of window crowns are fastened with dowels. We lay the closing crown, which consists of continuous logs, and put it on the dowels, transferring the zero mark to its corners. Draw a vertical line at the corners of the frame to be moved, which serves for control during assembly.

Now you can, having marked the logs, transfer them to the main frame, laying each crown with moss or tow. For ease of use, we recommend making the simplest scaffolding inside the house at the level of the window sill, for which, install chocks in the corners of the house and fasten them together with poles (two poles along each side of the log house). For the stability of the forests, the poles in pairs must abut against the opposite walls of the log house.

The upper harness consists of two upper girders and a rafter. At the ends of the runs, "doodles" are made, and in the middle - only the inner cheeks. For correction, we will lay the upper runs (eight-meter long) on ​​the transverse logs of the last crown above the window (the top of the "paws" does not need to be done on them).

Check and correct sizes A-B, S-D. Using pads and staples, we will achieve the horizontal top of the purlins.

We transfer the lines of the inner cheeks of the purlins to the transverse logs. Having rolled back the girder, we cut down the “paw” on the extreme transverse log, and “dovetail” on the middle one. Let's make the cheeks in the upper runs according to the “dovetail” of the transverse log. On the underside of the girders, we will make pockets 4 cm deep under the spikes of the veranda posts. We will lay the girders again and, having drawn them, we will embed them in the appropriate place.

We will prepare logs for the rafters 7 m long. All of them, except one, should be cut into two parallel edges, obtaining sleepers of the same thickness (at least 15 cm). Let's embed the untreated end rafters with a “dovetail” into the girder so that its top is horizontal.

Let's mark the insertion points of the rest of the processed rafters on the upper girders. Then we cut in the rafters (checking by level), cutting the girder by no more than 1/4 of the diameter.

You can also correct the upper level of the rafter by cutting it itself, but no more than 1/4 of the thickness.

Next, we make platforms for the rafter legs and under the wind board on the extreme (first) rafter line (level with the rest). If necessary, it should be besieged by re-drawing. Pull the cord along the ends of the extreme rafters and align the rest along it.

On podstronilines and girders make marks for subsequent alignment and mark them.

On the veranda rafter, make pockets for the posts (the number is determined by the design of the veranda). To eliminate the gap between the level of the lower edge of the rafters (ceiling) and the last log of the veranda wall, draw and cut in the log - "plug".

Now let's start making rafters. The choice of material, marking and the manufacture of rafters require special care and accuracy, since the strength of the roof depends on their quality. The blanks for the rafters are selected with the least amount of knots. In no case should the knots fall on the top of the workpiece, because the thorn in this place will be significantly weakened. It is allowed that the rafters have a slight curvature in the plane of the roof slope. The length of the blanks is determined by the angle of inclination of the roof and the length of the rafters. In our case, the tilt angle is 45 °.

Prepared blanks of rafters must be disassembled in pairs and numbered. On the blanks of the rafters, the side on which the crate will be attached must be flat, without protruding knots.

Let's start marking the base of the rafters. We will make a gash along the line of the ellipse and cut out the workpiece for the thorn, and then, having made the end gash, we will cut out the thorn itself. Next, we mark, grind and cut down the tops of the rafters. We will disassemble the finished rafters in pairs and install them to fit and check the quality of the connections on the rafters. Adjustment is carried out by trimming the pins or widening and deepening the pockets.

Sometimes they simplify the work on the manufacture of rafters. At the tops, they are connected in half a log, and the bases are attached to the rafters with nails, without making a thorn. Thus, simplifying the task for yourself, you significantly weaken the rafters and reduce the service life of the roof in advance.

Now we will remove the rafters and proceed to the last re-laying, not forgetting to lay the tow (moss). Then we will lay down all the rafters, except for the veranda, and fasten them with brackets apart, in order to avoid their reversal along the axis.

We have come to the final stage of construction - the manufacture of poles. In the log house, the pillars form the frame of the veranda and, in their own way, functional purpose are divided into corner, door, window and intermediate. Corner posts are a support for the upper girders, door and window frames are attached to door and window frames. Intermediate posts do not bear any additional load and are only a frame for cladding. The largest cross-sectional area should have corner posts, the smallest - intermediate. The distance between the intermediate posts is determined depending on the length of the boards used for sheathing the veranda, but in any case it should be no more than 1.5 m.

The manufacture of corner posts begins with determining their length and marking the pockets. For the convenience of marking, we will make a "fishing rod", at the end of which we will fix a plumb line. With the help of such a device, we will project any of the corners of the upper pocket onto the platform of the veranda transverse log of the lower strapping, while we obtain the distance H. According to the projected angle, we will restore the reciprocal pocket at the bottom.

Corner posts must be processed into three edges, and the distance between two parallel edges must be at least 16 cm. Next, the post should be cut to size.

Then we will make a pocket for the lower thorn with a depth of 7 cm. We will install the corner posts, placing 5 cm high pads, which should be removed six months later, after the log shrinkage.

Having installed the corner posts, put the veranda rafters in place and secure them with brackets. The rest of the pillars must be made and installed after the log shrinkage. Door and window posts, as well as corner posts, are processed into three edges, the rest - into two. The lower thorn for all posts, except for the corner ones, should be 3 cm long.

The installation of the remaining pillars should be started from the side of the log house, grabbing the already installed pillars to the upper girder (veranda rafter) with brackets.

The final operation is the installation of rafters. To complete it, it is necessary to lay a walkway made of poles (boards) across the rafters, prepare jibs from poles about 1.5 m long according to the number of rafters and nails 100 mm long. We lay out the rafter legs on the rafters, orienting the spikes opposite the pockets.

We will nail the tops of the rafters and install them, securing them with jibs. When installing the outer rafters, a plumb line should be used.

It is more convenient to install the rafters in three. Raising the rafters, you should simultaneously move forward, and having fixed the spikes of the rafter legs in the pockets, fix them with jibs, checking the verticality of the rafters.

It remains only to fasten the rafter legs with the rafters with thin staples.

So, the log house is ready! But a log house is not a house yet. Next, you will need to make the foundation, sew up the gables, cover the roof, fold the stove or fireplace, lay the floors, sheathe the veranda, cut in the window and door blocks, etc., in general, there is still a lot of interesting work awaiting you.

The log house project proposed by us is universal. If its dimensions are proportionally reduced, then you will get a very good log house of a bathhouse, for example, with a size of 4x4 m.By the way, it is better to start learning carpentry from such a building, get the necessary skills, gain self-confidence, and then you can safely offer your services in construction other gardeners.

Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular, or frame structures... As it turned out, a log is also suitable wall material, especially when the concept of construction is environmental friendliness and naturalness. One of our craftsmen, with nickname mike099... Its theme has collected all the stars, which speaks of its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:

• Eco-hut.
• Training.
• Foundation.
• Box.
• Roof.
• Internal work.

Eco-hut only 30 m²

mike099 FORUMHOUSE user

The dream of construction has long crept in wooden house- environmentally friendly, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene and other "benefits" of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable house with minimal effort, suitable for winter arrivals and year-round living, therefore, shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of the past centuries were not included in the project.

The craftsman immediately decided on the construct:

• Pile foundation.
• A box of hand-chopped logs.
• Metal roofing.
• As a heater for floors - sawdust with and sawdust with lime.

Training

The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden change house and toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman aimed at a one-and-a-half-story frame 8 × 9 meters with five rooms, but as he understood it, a completely different structure emerged. I refused the second floor, even though it was an attic one, both because of the unwillingness to engage in stair fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with the planned stove heating there will be a big temperature difference between the levels. Plus, it is problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with overlapping and cold attic is much easier. Then it was the turn of quadrature, and the result of the selection of the optimal layout was the project of a log house 6 × 6 meters, with a set of functional rooms.

Were taken into account both the meters vital for a comfortable existence, and the savings on operation due to the reduction of heating costs, and the country specificity - a house for “drinking and sleeping tea”. However, this adjustment to the scale led to the abandonment of the planned felling of logs into a bowl. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, and a seven-meter one is much more expensive, and only a few work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but the “dovetail” with the intersection is quite functional, and the ends can be closed with platbands.

Foundation

The preference was given to screw piles because of the desire to try the "ultra-modern solution" and save money, as well as due to the speed and relative ease of installation. In total, nine piles were screwed in - three points of support for each load-bearing beam, pile diameter 108 mm, thickness - 4 mm. Despite some problems during the installation of piles and the flimsy of the coating, positioned as a strong protective layer, and in fact without efforts being peeled off with a fingernail, the craftsman is satisfied with the choice. Moreover, it is possible that the bathhouse will also be placed on piles, although it recognizes that the tape or plate will be "more reliable."

Box

The log house was collected on moss, ordered in advance from another area, before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since during the delivery it was still fresh and did not dry out especially in two weeks spent waiting in the wings. Making log partitions turned out to be problematic due to the small dimensions of the four-walled, and the cost of the box in this case would jump by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team brought and assembled just a box in one more day, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely on all the walls, it took much less than planned, as practice has shown - they clearly did not report.

To dry the log house, ventilation holes of 30 × 30 cm were cut out, with a grate. To everyone who is just in the process mike099 advises making more of them. He was already doing the winding (primary caulking of the log house with moss) on his own, driving the hanging moss into the voids, and cutting off the excess with a clerical knife.

Roof

The craftsman refused from the now popular soft tile for several reasons.

mike099

I dismissed the soft roof immediately, due to the lower environmental friendliness and the higher price. Bonding, the basis of soft tiles are far from natural materials. Installation is more expensive, and you need a flat flooring made of OSB or plywood.

Therefore preferred metal roof tiles imitating a ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of the rafter elements, there is a central support ridge beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50 × 50 mm), lathing with a step for the profile of the coating (35 cm). As planned - eaves overhangs of 70 cm, in the future there will be a metal drainage system.

After assembling the blockhouse "under the roof", he protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and installed temporary ebbs from waterproofing at the ends, slots of the ebb and at the junction of the box and the piping. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemistry, I had to treat the gables from the imitation of the timber with a protective impregnation.

Internal work

The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the timber, I wanted to observe the style, but processing a log now is not a cheap pleasure, like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a board, 50 mm thick, with overlapping slots with an unedged board 25 mm thick, all lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. To avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two support logs go through the ceiling.

I made the opening of the openings myself, since the specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.

mike099

The okosyachka was made simple, rough T-shaped: the grooves in the log were outlined with a saw, the main selection was made with a milling cutter. I laid a block of 50x50 mm dry, with a linen tape (insulation) and shot a box from a 200x50 mm board to it with self-tapping screws.

Another indulgence in favor modern materials – steel door and two plastic windows, wooden euro-windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows on his own, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory one, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal with high labor costs.

To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined brick stove with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron stove and a Russian stove. The foundation under the furnace is 1.7 m deep, reinforcing cage, two m³ of concrete.

The rough floor, as it dries, "pleased" the cracks, I had to cover them with cover strips, before filling the sawdust I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.

Before laying the sawdust, he sprinkled it with lime and carefully tamped it. Before starting the installation of a finishing floorboard, the craftsman brought out communications.

An unpleasant surprise was the strong warping of the floor after shrinking for just one day and the loss of knots. The result is the opening of the coating and re-installation, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.

The craftsman decided to leave in the first winter with an insulated underground - a metal frame around the perimeter of the basement, XPS to it, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house as well as insulation sheets. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn on the site under the frame itself, and the basement was later tiled basement siding under the brickwork.

Grinding logs mike099 took up independently, first with the help of an eccentric grinder... It turned out to be rather weak, so they replaced it with a grinder, first I used a circle with 80 grain, the second pass - with 120-150 grain. Only the vacuum cleaner collected 200 liters of waste, but it was worth it.

A house made of rounded logs is a more progressive analogue of the traditional Russian log house - a hut, which was built by our ancestors. Although the construction of a house from chopped logs has not yet lost its relevance.

Paying tribute to tradition modern technologies make it possible to obtain a building material - a rounded log having the same diameter along its entire length, with clearly defined parameters of longitudinal grooves and seats (bowls).

Visually modern log house also underwent changes and began to look much smoother and neater. Have changed and performance characteristics the log itself. As a result of processing, it has become more stable, resistant to torsion, and most importantly, in contrast to chopped logs, rounding has no tapering. Stable geometry increases home assembly speed and quality.

Advantages and disadvantages of log houses

It is possible to highlight both advantages and negative sides, most of which are subjective or depend on the source material or the quality of processing.

Pros of houses made of rounded logs

• mainly natural materials are used. Usually, the decoration is chosen to match the house from natural materials;

• excellent natural ventilation, due to which there are no prerequisites for the appearance of condensation, dampness, the development of strokes and mold;

• there is a unique spirit natural wood that has a positive effect on human health; Material prepared for the site www.site

• warm in winter and cool in summer. Due to the tight fit of the logs and the low thermal conductivity of the wood itself, a house built from a log large diameter, does not need additional insulation and air conditioning;

• attractive facade, exterior and interior.

In addition, a log house is a solid, reliable, stable structure, the construction of which takes from 5 to 30 days, depending on the project. At the same time, the construction of a house from a log is considered one of the economically viable projects in private construction, with the optimal combination prices, quality and construction time.

Cons of houses made of rounded logs

Disadvantages need to be considered, first of all, in order to take measures to eliminate them and avoid possible mistakes.

• shrinkage. The main disadvantage of a house made of rounded logs. Note that wood construction is always associated with the shrinkage of buildings, this is due to the characteristics of the wood itself. But, a six-month break in work for the most active shrinkage, the choice of dry material, the use of jacks, strengthening the junction of the logs, etc. nuances will reduce the shrinkage of the log. The optimal indicator is 8-10%;

• flammability. Wood is on fire - that's a fact. But it does not belong to flammable materials, and the likelihood of its spontaneous combustion (for example, from electrical wiring) is not higher than in other houses. But a wooden house is easier to extinguish, and the smoke released during combustion is not as poisonous as that of heaters used to insulate stone houses;

• cracking. Cracking is also a natural process in wood. You can minimize their appearance by buying dry logs and putting the house into operation correctly, in particular correct mode heat supply at the onset of cold weather;

• care. The wooden house is in constant need of maintenance. It is necessary to periodically caulk the cracks and cover the log to protect it from external factors. But, any private house needs care. Taking care of your own home can hardly be considered a serious disadvantage.

What is the best time to build a house from a rounded log?

You can choose the start of construction based on your own capabilities. Any time, with the exception of autumn, you can carry out construction work. However, the most preferred time of year to start assembling log house the end of winter is considered. This is due to the following factors:

• winter forest is considered the best for building houses;
• v winter time there is no precipitation for years, and it is easier to protect a log from snow than from rain;
• since the house is being built quickly, the developer has spring for the gradual drying of wood, and summer for the most active phase of shrinkage, and in the fall it will be possible to put a permanent roof.

Rounded log house project

Any construction needs to start with the development of a project, and the project of a residential building made of rounded logs needs approval from various authorities.

What is needed to design a log house:

• order development individual project, develop a project yourself using computer programs, download typical project and finalized, taking into account the peculiarities of the place and operating conditions (it will be necessary to conduct geodetic studies);

• calculate the parameters of the future house: total square, usable area, number living rooms, their purpose, take into account the special requirements of residents (for example, retirees or people with disabilities), take into account all the wishes, because the house is being built for the whole family and will be operated by several generations;

• think over the rafter system and choose the roofing material. It must be heavy enough to create pressure on the walls and prevent gaps between the logs;

• will take care of the protection of the south side of the house. As you know, it is she who is most susceptible to rapid shrinkage, due to the ingress of direct sun rays... Therefore, most projects contain a veranda or covered terrace along the south side of the log house;

• make a logging - a document that will allow you to order a house kit from a rounded log for self assembly or will simplify the adjustment of logs when using moldings.

What log is better to build a house from?

A log house will only be able to reveal all its features when it is made of high-quality building material.

A log, as a building material, has been used for a very long time, and does not lose its popularity to this day. In addition to environmental friendliness, log houses attract with their appearance and relatively low cost. In this article, we will analyze in stages how to build a log house yourself.

Many companies are engaged in the construction of turnkey wooden houses today. They are also involved in the procurement and production of logs. The price of a turnkey house depends not only on the size of the house, but also on the diameter of the logs used and the method of their production.

Build a house from a log with your own hands will be much cheaper than ordering turnkey construction. Price building materials comparable to the cost of work. That is the price finished house, ordered from the company on a turnkey basis, exceeds the cost of building materials twice.

Types of logs

Logs are made from wood conifers mostly spruce, pine or larch.

According to the method of production (harvesting), a log is:

- debarked

- scraped

- planed

- rounded

Debarked logs are one of the most commonly used materials for building houses. Not significant processing helps to preserve all its protective properties of the tree, which significantly increases its service life. For the price of a house from a debarked log, they are not expensive, but they require additional finishing.

From a debarked log, by removing the bark (bast) with the help of scraping and grinding, a very durable scraped log is obtained. In the process of processing, the logs are adjusted to each other, all irregularities, knots and other flaws are removed. The price of a house made from such a log will already be higher than from a debarked one, since additional processing requires quite a lot of time. A log house made of scraped logs does not require additional finishing works on the contrary, due to the uniqueness of each log it looks very dignified.

The name itself - "planed log" speaks about the technology of its production. With the help of an electric planer, an insignificant upper part is removed from the logs, and all irregularities are eliminated. Thus, fairly even logs are obtained. As in the case of a scraped log, planed logs are adjusted to fit each other. Houses made of planed logs are very warm, durable and do not require additional finishing work. The price of such turnkey houses is much higher than that of the above options.

A rounded log is obtained as a result of processing a log on a rounding machine. Due to this, perfectly flat logs are obtained along the entire length, which do not require adjustment. As a result of processing, a protective layer is removed from the tree, which can subsequently lead to cracking of the log and rapid damage to the log house (decay). Houses from such a log are assembled pretty quickly, they look beautiful without additional finishing. The price of houses made of turnkey rounded logs is not high, but it is quite difficult to obtain a high-quality log house from such material.

Project selection

After determining the material from which the house will be built, you can start choosing its project. Not large sizes the house can be designed by yourself or you can find a free project on the Internet. But it is not worth experimenting with the project of a two-story large house. It is better to purchase it from the appropriate organization, which will most likely help with obtaining a permit for its construction.

When self-designing a future house, it is necessary to take into account the maximum possible length of logs, which is 6 meters. The height of the future house is calculated based on the diameter of the logs, which is different for everyone, except for the use of rounded logs.

The foundation for a log house

The foundation for a house made of solid logs must withstand heavy loads. The most suitable is a shallow strip foundation. The price of this type of turnkey foundation in construction companies is quite high, therefore, it is also better to carry out this stage of construction yourself.

Before erecting a foundation for a house from a log, it is necessary to mark the site. To do this, pegs are driven in the corners of the future house, and a string is pulled between them, indicating its contours. Next, a trench is dug with a depth of 60-70 cm and a width equal to the width of the foundation, and it depends on the diameter chosen for the construction of the log. It is desirable that from the outside the foundation protrudes 5 cm beyond the wall, and from the inside by 10 cm. The internal ledge is necessary for a more stable and high-quality fit of the genital lags.

At the bottom of the trench, a layer of sand (sand cushion) is poured, which is well compacted.

The next stage is the assembly and installation of the formwork. It is made from boards or plywood by assembling panels. Shields are installed on top of the trench opposite each other and are well fastened to each other.

Reinforcement is placed inside the formwork, which is tied together into one single frame. For the foundation for a log house, reinforcement of at least 12 diameters is used, in several rows.

After the installation of the formwork and the reinforcing frame, concrete can be poured. When buying concrete from a manufacturer, it is necessary to order concrete of the M250 brand. When self-pouring, the proportions are as follows: 1 cement (400): 3 sand: 4.5-5 crushed stone.

Important! Openings must be provided in the foundation for ventilation of the subfloor. The height of the foundation from the ground should be less than 50 cm.

Wall technology

Before laying the first crown of a log house, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation by laying on it waterproofing material(roofing material, hydrostekloizol).

For the first crown, choose the largest log in diameter and the most resinous.

You can also use larch logs, but its price is quite high. To make the log more stable, part of it is removed, making a flat platform. They are treated with an antiseptic solution and laid on the foundation.

For a high-quality fit to each other in the logs, a longitudinal groove is selected. When ordering a ready-made log house made of rounded logs, this groove is made already in production. In all other cases, the groove is made manually.

Video How to make a longitudinal groove manually:

The logs are stacked groove down on top of each other. For a tight and warm connection, moss or tow is laid between the logs. Logs are interconnected using wooden dowels, which are inserted vertically into pre-drilled holes.

The corner connection can have several options: with and without a remainder.

When joining the logs with the remainder, there will be an overconsumption of material, since part of the log protrudes beyond the wall of the house. This method will increase the cost of construction.

The corner joint of the logs must be warm. It can be obtained by connecting in a paw (when connecting without a residue) and by connecting to a bowl (when connecting with a residue).

If the diameter of the logs is large enough, then, most likely, in order to build a house from a log, you will have to resort to the help of equipment: a crane or a manipulator.

Building a house from a rounded log is easier than from a regular one. The log is even, all the necessary grooves and corner joints have already been made in production, all that remains is to assemble the designer.

Roof erection technology

After assembling the box at home, it must be protected from the effects of precipitation. To do this, you must immediately erect a roof over it.

This will require boards 150 * 50 mm, of which it is constructed rafter system... A roof slope of 30 degrees is optimal. The rafters are installed at a distance of 60-100 mm from each other and are attached at the bottom to the wall using long nails or metal corners, and at the top to the ridge beam. Roofing waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters, a counter rail is nailed to provide a ventilated gap, and a wooden crate is equipped.

Roofing material is laid on the crate. In the case of flexible bitumen shingles, a solid plywood base is made. Price soft roof higher than metal, but in certain cases (complex hip roofs), its use will be preferable and expedient.

A log house with an arranged roof will have a beautiful finished look.

Important nuances

After the construction of the box of the house and the roof, the log house needs to stand for at least one year. After it has shrunk, you can start finishing (cutting) window and door openings.

As described above, houses made of rounded or planed logs do not require additional finishing, but protection of the wood from moisture and insects is required. For this, wooden houses should be periodically treated with special solutions and paints. The quality of wood processing will depend on how long a log house will last.

To reduce the heat loss of a log house, it must be well drilled.

To build a turnkey log house with your own hands, you need to purchase a suitable project, high-quality and affordable material and follow the technology at all stages of construction.

By choosing or drawing a specific project, and calculating how much building material is needed and how much money is needed for the construction of this particular house, you will understand how much the price of the offered ready-made houses in construction companies differs from the cost of building a house with your own hands.

Video. Building a house from a log.

04/19/2016 by
Categories: home
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Despite the abundance of building materials, many developers during the construction own home give preference to traditional natural materials - timber, log. However, the installation of a house from an ordinary untreated log cannot be performed without the help of specialists. Another thing is the construction of houses from rounded logs, here you can do all the work yourself if you have minimal skills in handling carpentry tools. In our article, we will consider the features and sequence of assembling a house from cylindrical construction.

Preparatory stage

It is better to order the project from the appropriate organization, since even at the design stage you need to take into account many nuances, ranging from the shrinkage of the house and ending with the calculation of the thickness of the walls, taking into account the peculiarities of the climate.

For a log house, it is very important to choose quality material... It is better to buy logs harvested at the factory. There are several reasons for this:

1. Workpieces that have passed a special chamber drying will give minimal shrinkage (up to 1%), while shrinkage of products natural moisture can go up to 10%.
2. Moreover, factory blanks undergo special treatment with antiseptics and fire retardants, so you will not need to perform it on site before installation.
3. It is quite difficult to make an assembly longitudinal groove perfectly on your own. For factory products, this groove is cut on the machine, therefore it has the correct size and shape.

In order for a log house to be warm, beautiful and durable, when choosing a material for the construction of a log house, you should pay attention to the following points:

• Shade of wood - elements should be yellow or deep yellow.
• There should be as few knots as possible on the surface of the workpieces and the complete absence of resin pockets.
• The permissible size of cracks is no more than 1/3 of the diameter.
• The elements must be even throughout, without deformations and bends.
• At the cut, the log should be quite dense and even, the core of the wood should be no more than ¾ of the diameter.

Tip: It is best to purchase winter wood. It has a minimum moisture content, therefore it is least susceptible to shrinkage and deformation.

• Give preference to coniferous logs growing in the northern regions of our country.
• It is better to use larch or aspen blanks for the execution of embedded crowns and strapping. It is the most durable, resistant to negative impacts wood.

On average, you will have to pay from 300 USD / m² for the construction of a house from cylindrical cylinders. The final price depends on the materials used, the complexity and dimensions of the building, as well as the diameter of the logs used. How larger diameter, the higher the price of the material.

Construction technology

We begin the construction of a house from rounded logs with the preparation of the site. The construction area must be cleared of debris and green spaces that interfere with construction process... It is also necessary to allocate a site for unloading and storing SSB, provide for access roads. A small free area should be near the future structure so that logs can be prepared on it and lifted up.

The most favorable time of the year for the construction of a wooden house is winter. The thing is that in winter period the air is the driest, so the wood absorbs less moisture. As a result, a house built in winter will have minimal shrinkage. The exception is the process of arranging the foundation. It is better to complete it before the onset of cold weather.

Attention: winter construction beneficial only for those regions where low humidity and prolonged subzero temperatures are observed in winter.

If in your region the winters are not so severe, it is sleet with rain, then you need to equip a special shed for storing logs.

Foundation

The choice of the type of base for your wooden house should be done taking into account the characteristics of the soil, groundwater level and climate. Typically, a house made of wood is lightweight, so one of the following types of base can be used:

• shallow belt structures;
• pile-screw foundation;
• strip-pile foundations;
• columnar structures;
• shallow slab bases.

We carry out fundamental work in the following sequence:

1. First of all, we do the markup. For this we use geodetic instruments, a cord and pegs. To check that the angles are correct (they should be 90 degrees each), you need to measure the length of the diagonals. It should be the same.
2. Next, we dig a trench or foundation pit. The depth of the foundation can be 50-100 cm; for arranging pile-screw and columnar structures, you need to go deeper by 1.5 m.
3. At the bottom of the trench or ditch, we make a cushion of a mixture of gravel and sand, which we carefully level and ram.
4. Next, we make formwork from boards, moisture-resistant plywood or special boards. At this stage, do not forget to lay pipes in the formwork, which will then serve as air vents.
5. We make a reinforcing cage. Before installing it into the formwork, pour concrete with a layer of 5 cm high. Install the frame on hardened concrete. At the same time, we make sure that the reinforcement does not approach the formwork by more than 50 mm.
6. Pour concrete and ram it.
7. After 28 days, the formwork can be dismantled and further installation work can be carried out.

Important: the height of the plinth should be at least 30-50 cm in order to protect the logs from getting wet and subsequent decay.

Walls

Before you build a house from a rounded log, you need to perform horizontal waterproofing of the base. To do this, on the surface of the base, we lay two layers of roofing material on bituminous mastic... If the work will be carried out in winter, then after removing the snow, the surface of the base is warmed up with a heating pad. The waterproofing layer should protrude 30-50 mm beyond the foundation on each side.

Stages of building a house from rounded logs:

1. We make the bottom harness from wooden support beams. It is better to use aspen or larch blanks. Before laying, we subject the elements to antiseptic processing. We fix the beams to the base using reinforcement pins. To top it all off, we coat these beams with bitumen mastic.

Important: before the final fixing of the beams, you need to check their position. The discrepancy in height can be no more than 5 mm.

1. Now we lay the embedded semi-logs. The base of these elements should fit as tightly as possible, without gaps, to the support beam. That is why the lower part of the crown logs is cut in such a way as to ensure the most tight fit. First, we lay two elements on opposite walls, then the other two parts. We make a groove in the corners for a bundle of logs in the upper elements. The place of the corner joint is additionally fixed with steel brackets, and the logs are fastened with pins to the support beams.
2. The sequence of laying the rest of the crowns is the same as for the mortgage crown. That is, all elements are mounted on top of each other. In this case, a tape insulation is attached to the longitudinal groove. Elements are connected to each other wooden dowels, which are installed in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 1-1.5 m. Fastening element should go through the entire upper rim and halfway into the lower element. Before drilling the holes for the pins, the logs are temporarily connected with nails. The optimum diameter of the nail is 20 mm. For drilling holes, we use a drill 5 mm smaller in diameter than the cross-section of the nail.

Floor and slabs

When building a house from a rounded log with our own hands, we make a wooden floor on logs. To do this, adhere to the following sequence of actions:

1. Even at the stage of laying the first crown, it is necessary to cut out recesses in it, into which logs can be laid. Usually the step of the lag is 60-70 cm. The depth of the groove should be such that the lag can freely lie on the base.
2. Lags also need to be impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
3. After that, we attach cranial bars to the lower part of the lag. On them we can lay roughing boards.

Important: sometimes, for additional strength, support posts are made of logs, brick or concrete under the lag beams. They go with a certain step.

1. After that, on top of the roll-up boards and the lag is laid waterproofing film... It is fastened with brackets to the beams.
2. Further, in the intervals between the lags, it fits thermal insulation material.
3. From above, the entire structure is covered vapor barrier membrane.
4. Subfloor boards are being laid.

If the house has an attic or second floor, then the arrangement of the floor is carried out in the same way, with the only difference that the heat-insulating material is needed to dampen the noise, and steam and waterproofing is not used. The cut-in of the interfloor beams is made so that they are 90% in the groove of the upper log and only 10% in the lower one.

Roof

When arranging the roof of a log house, the last crown bar acts as a Mauerlat. The rafters are fixed in a special way... For this, a cutout is made in the Mauerlat at an angle, equal to the angle slope of the rafters. The rafter is fixed in the cutout using special metal fasteners, which can easily slide during the shrinkage of the house, while maintaining the strength of the connection and the angle of inclination.

The roof is assembled in the following sequence:

1. The first pair of rafter legs goes up and joins at the desired angle above the first pediment. The pair is attached to the Mauerlat.
2. The procedure for installing the second pair of rafter legs above the second pediment is similar.
3. A cord is pulled between these pairs of rafter legs. All subsequent pairs of rafters are installed along it with a step of 800-900 mm.
4. All rafters are connected by a ridge beam.
5. Above, across the direction of the rafters, waterproofing is laid. It is fixed to the rafters by means of a counter-lattice.
6. Next, a solid or thinned lathing is performed. The selected roof covering is applied.
7. WITH inside the roof needs to be insulated. For this, a heat-insulating material is laid between the rafters. From above, the entire structure is sewn up with a vapor barrier membrane. From below, the roof is hemmed with plasterboard, clapboard or OSB.

The process of building a wooden house from a rounded log is shown in detail in the video below: