If the owners plan to equip paths in their suburban area or sites around a private city house, then you will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do it better and more economically. Today, paving slabs of various colors and configurations have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially during transportation losses are possible, which means that buying tiles with a margin will also be unnecessary expenses. Therefore, many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount at the same time.

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for a variant that is suitable for the pattern and color.

If a decision is made to engage in independent production of paving slabs, then you need to be ready for a rather laborious work. However, the result obtained from her will surpass all expectations, when the paths or area near the house will have exactly the look that the owners thought when developing the landscape design of their possessions.

The advantage of home-made is that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced on an industrial scale, or in general, by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own version of tiles, there is always the opportunity to experiment with colors and even shapes, since molds for casting can also be made independently.

Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs

In the event that the store did not find a tile of the desired configuration, or it was found, but it has a too high price, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in an amount of several pieces, and already with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for the improvement of paths and areas on the site.

For this, only a few copies of ready-made tiles of any color are purchased, according to which the forms are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern, or a stone that you like with its outlines, can be used as an initial sample.

Matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to make, but already during the production of tiles, the work will go much faster.

To make a form, you will need a formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting a matrix.

The formwork is done more size the initial sample is 20-30 mm in height and 12-15 mm in width. It should be borne in mind that the paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35 ÷ 60 mm. A plywood box is suitable as a formwork, cardboard box or any other material capable of withstanding the casting of a plastic mold compound. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound, or from a silicone sealant.

Polyurethane compound mold

In the assortment of hardware stores, you can find several types of compound specifically designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them can be called the domestic composition "Silagerm 5035", as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics... The molding compound is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two parameters of hardness - 30 and 40 units. according to Shor's table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for the manufacture of the matrix must be thoroughly rinsed and dried.
• Further, the original sample and the inner space of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with finished wax grease.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. For this, a hardener is added to the paste in proportions of 2: 1, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to observe the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If preparing a large number of mixture, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer nozzle, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. The drill when mixing the mass is turned on at low speed, otherwise the composition will turn out with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to exclude contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, into which the template is laid face up. The filling composition must completely cover the original sample and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8 ÷ 10 mm.
• Upon completion of the pouring, the formwork must be slightly moved back and forth, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, the casting formwork should stand for 5 ÷ 7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the mold can be removed from the formwork. However, it can be used for its intended purpose only after 72 hours, after the material has acquired all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the mold will be able to withstand even the poured mass heated to 80 ÷ 120 degrees.
• The form made of the compound will last a long time if it is treated with a special compound "Tiprom 90" before filling it with a solution for making tiles.

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requires preparation according to the instructions (generally similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as a sealant. You need to buy it as much as it takes to make the mold, since after opening the package, it immediately begins to set. Therefore, the factory packaging of one-component silicone should be opened after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. As a lubricant, ordinary grease is most often used.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, it is also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the upper part of the original should also be 8 ÷ 10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute the silicone over the formwork, a spatula or brush is used, which are dipped in a soapy solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone dries much longer than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the poured layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the tile mold in advance, for example, by devoting the winter time to this, so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with the cement from which the paving slabs will be made in the warm season or, at least, at a positive temperature. ...

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and well washed with grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are shown in the table:

It should be noted that if the owners do not have any desire to engage in the manufacture of matrices on their own, then they can easily be purchased in a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths in the suburban area may not differ at all from the neighbors.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (without special need, which will be discussed below). Better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every house has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently make paving slabs. Therefore, further methods will be considered that allow you to make it using available tools. Of course, special forms are indispensable, and they can be made according to the instructions presented above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be nice to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, it is quite possible to cast tiles on a small scale without it.

Making a square tile using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It does not go out of fashion, as it gives the paths austerity and accuracy. It is especially important to use this tile option for decorating the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold with a size of 300 × 300 mm and a thickness of 30 mm is used for the manufacture of tiles. The embossed pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​called "Californian shagreen". Plastic molds are convenient in that they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during the laying of the mortar, but it is more difficult to extract the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. To make the mold last as long as possible, and it would be easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with grease before pouring the solution.
	To mix the solution required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, usual tap water 0.5 liters, powder red color 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, as the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile can change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master has chosen such a mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - the sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment.
	The next step, in a separate container, are mixed until homogeneous water, dry dye and plasticizer.
	As a result of such mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All components are thoroughly mixed with a mixer - this process should be carried out for at least 3 ÷ 5 minutes.
	After mixing, a fairly thick, viscous coarse-grained mass should be obtained. It will acquire the necessary density in the process of laying it out in a mold and tamping it.
	Next, the resulting mixture is laid out in a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed as uniformly as possible in the shape by lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first spread with a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with a solution, it must be carefully compacted by pressing it with a trowel. Pay particular attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Further, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process takes place until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. Air bubbles will emerge from the solution when shaken. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air ceases to come out completely. When tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fillings - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made for only one track, then it will be unprofitable to buy or make a vibrating table on your own. The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and can change upward in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has elapsed, the matrix is ​​turned over, and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the mold, in order for the product to lag behind it more easily.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, since it must completely dry out and gain strength. For this, the tiles are placed on the edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the required strength, with the possibility of applying the full load on the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after production.

Production of original paving slabs "pine cut" in polyurethane form

The original design of the playgrounds and paths is the laying of wooden round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well and is subject to gradual decay and damage from various insects. Concrete tiles, imitating a cut of wood, will be an excellent substitute for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	This very original version of paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from mortars different color. It is somewhat more difficult to make it than a one-color one, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called "pine cut" because it mimics the cut round timber from a tree trunk. Inner part has a beige color and relief of annual rings, well, and the outer frame repeats the pattern of a hardened pine bark.
	For the manufacture of such products, a polyurethane flexible form is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have the proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which in the future will help to shake the solution after filling out the form. Shaking a flexible die filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with "annual rings", one such tile will require white cement 100 ÷ 150 g, sand of an average fraction - 300 ÷ 350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20 ÷ 25 ml. and 200 ÷ 250 ml. water.
	Water, color and plasticizer are combined in one container and mix well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All components are well mixed until smooth. A small amount of water can be added if necessary.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously coated with wax grease. It may seem that there is too little of it, but this is a misleading impression, since when distributing the mixture, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only along the inner part of the mold, which imitates the core of the round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side that separates the middle part of the "round timber" from the improvised "bark".
	The solution must be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed with a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. It is impossible to dilute the mixture, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid bottom, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is not much mixture in the matrix, the mold after the initial distribution is moved back and forth on the table surface and gently shaken.
	Next, the mass is again spread with a spatula and pressed firmly against the mold.
	After that, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allotted for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the frame of the round timber with "bark". For the mixture intended to form this layer, and the entire main part of the tile, you need to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 g, brown color 60 ÷ 70 g, sand coarse fraction 3.5 ÷ 4 kg.
	Sand and cement are well mixed with a mixer. Then, a solution of water, dye and plasticizer is prepared separately.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, some or all of the remainder of the solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	Using a trowel, the mixture is poured into the matrix. First, it fills the edges of the form, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out on the entire plane of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The shape needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue, one edge of it is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are produced.
	Then, the mixture is compacted again with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold, filled with the mixture, continues to be vibrated until its surface of the mortar is even and smooth. It should fill the entire embossed pattern on the sidewalls of the die. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​gently inverted.
	Then, the form is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic matrix in that it can be removed from finished product much simpler, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must finally dry out and gain strength, this will take at least 2-3 days. When dry, the product will acquire a lighter shade, therefore, if you want to get a rich color, then you can add large quantity color scheme. However, it must be borne in mind that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If it is decided to make a mold for such a tile on our own, then as a basis it is necessary to take natural round timber from any tree you like in texture, with a well-defined structure of coarse bark. Before pouring silicone or a compound in the process of making a matrix, it is necessary to process the sample by deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not work. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small side will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer pouring. Once the tiles have been laid, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can also carefully fill it yourself with a trowel or ordinary cement composition

On-site paving slabs with a stencil

Another affordable way equip garden paths - this is filling them concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly ennoble not only narrow paths, but also entire grounds.

These instructions can figure out how to properly prepare a place for laying a track, and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	For such work, you will need to prepare from the tools: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump sprayer; - a container for mixing a solution or a concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable for delivering the mixture to the place of pouring. After the familiarization with the work process is carried out, each master can replenish the list with tools convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list.
	From the materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for flooring on the ground; - slag or fine crushed stone. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that from one 50 kg bag of cement, 6 ÷ 7 slabs with a size of 600 × 600 mm and a thickness of 60 mm can be obtained. This list can be supplemented with curbs, since the track will not last long on an unenclosed area - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words must be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones, dividing the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after pouring concrete into it and building up its strength, not separate stones are formed, but a solid slab, divided by gaps in the upper part only by ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the mold should have two technological holes in which the handles are fixed, which will help to remove the stencil from the set concrete without any problems.
	To make the track last long term and is not overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for pouring it. For this, first of all, the fertile soil layer is removed from the marked area, approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm in depth. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic wrap on top of it, which will not allow the germinating grass to break out. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some people save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If done conscientiously, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is laid, then it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If it is planned to protect the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the formation of the path.
	Next, a stencil is placed on the prepared place, processed from the inside with machine oil using a brush. In order to save mortar, as well as to increase the strength of the created slab and its kind of reinforcement, crushed stone of a coarse fraction can be laid in the inner space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a suitably sized container. The concrete mixture should be compiled in this way: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 gr. plasticizer and, if desired, added dye.
	If 5 ÷ 6 molds are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is kneaded in the following proportions: 250 grams of cement must be prepared for 50 kg of cement. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine gravel, 6 buckets of clean river sand... So much water is added to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle such a volume of solution. m. To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, you need to proportionally reduce the composition. If colored tiles are made, then it is permissible to add color in the amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The laid form is filled with the ready-made solution. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire stencil space. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is distributed with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, the mass can be easily placed in the corners under the stencil lintels. It is better to put more mixture than required than not report, as the excess can be easily removed with a trowel.
	The mortar is smoothed over the top of the stencil with a wide spatula. The excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surfaces of the future tiles to perfect smoothness, as its durability and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20-30 minutes, until the solution sets, the stencil is removed from the tile, grasping the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done extremely carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet completely hardened, and it is highly likely that, with awkward movement, one of the corners of the tile will be damaged.
	The result should be such a concrete slab.
	The mold removed from the previous slab is placed next to it, observing a gap of approximately 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked building level for evenness, and, if necessary, in one or two corners make a sand bed or a support from flat stone or ceramic tiles.
	Further, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution, which is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed with borders already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the plates and the borders are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete, covered with sand or soil with seeds of a special lawn grass, which rises by only 30 ÷ 50 mm.
	The gaps between the plates can be left empty. However, it should be borne in mind that over time they will be clogged with soil, in which weed seeds may appear, and it can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the slabs.
	If desired, during the manufacture of such a coating, it can be decorated with a bat. ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the mortar that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is smoothed again with a spatula.
	If you want to add color to the garden plot, then the tiles can be made multi-colored by filling the stencil cells with solutions to which different colors have been added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always cheer you up. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three molds for pouring. This will make the work more effective, since a solution of the same color can be filled in areas in several stencils at once.

When starting work on arranging paths in this way, it is imperative to inquire about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all work may go down the drain if heavy rain suddenly falls on the very first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work on the arrangement of the site. Although this form is quite expensive, but having only two or three such matrices, you can quickly lay paths and refine the sites throughout the territory without involving third-party craftsmen.

Another important point... When purchasing ready-made tiles, you should remember that laying it correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if it is not possible to make the paving on your own, you will have to invite specialists and pay them an amount for the work, which, at least, will be equal to the cost of the tile itself.

The stencil will not allow you to make gross mistakes. Even without any experience in this area, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased accuracy is manifested, and the beginner master himself mobilizes all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of a master - making paving slabs for natural wood

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Paths on a personal or garden plot, paved with paving slabs, are functional and aesthetic. The paving stone is strong, durable, easy to maintain and attractive. But the cost of such a coating, when it comes to buying a few tens of square meters of tiles, are significant. Therefore, craftsmen, in order to save money, using technologies available for home conditions, have been successfully making paving slabs with their own hands for several years.

The quality of paving slabs depends on compliance with the technology and the correct recipe.

Choice of technology

There are two ways to produce paving slabs:

• vibrocompression;
• vibration casting.

The first method for the production of tiles at home is not suitable by definition - there is nothing to do pressing. And the manufacture of good-quality paving stones with your own hands using the vibration casting method is quite real.

Manufacturers offer the following types of forms for the production of paving stones:

• polyurethane - allow up to 100 molding revolutions;
• made of plastic - up to 250 revolutions;
• from plastic rubber - more than 500 cycles.

The price of products depends on the number of molding cycles, therefore the high cost of rubber and plastic molds It assumes their use in the production of large volumes of tiles, and polyurethane products are quite affordable for the average buyer. Having bought 5 forms, you can make 500 pieces of paving slabs with your own hands, and with careful handling it is possible to make more.

Molds for casting tiles

Forming templates for making paving stones

For casting paving slabs "in place", molds are used in the form of a frame made of partitions, reminiscent of honeycombs. irregular shape, which you can buy or do it yourself. Having laid such a frame on a properly prepared base, the honeycomb is filled with concrete. After a few hours, the template is removed, and instead of honeycombs, ready-made flat concrete fragments remain on the base, between which you only need to arrange the seams.

In addition, if the laying of paving stones is planned to be done, for example, on the auxiliary paths of the garden plot, and the requirements for it are low, then the molds for casting such a tile can be made by hand.

To make paving stones, first of all, you need to stock up on special casting molds

Self-production of molds for casting

DIY paving slabs.
The universal format of paving slabs is a square with a side of 30 cm. This size provides the necessary strength when working in bending and is convenient for cutting the product in half or into 4 pieces when you need to adjust the material. Therefore, from wooden smoothly planed bars with a cross section of 60 x 30 mm, you need to make a frame with internal dimensions of 30 x 30 cm and a depth of 60 mm with your own hands. It is better to assemble the frame on self-tapping screws, which in the future, when removing the frozen product, will be easy to unscrew and then return to their place.

To form a pattern on the front side of the future paving slabs, an elastic base with a corrugated surface is chosen, for example, a rubber mat with a large pattern, and a form frame is laid on it.

Before forming the bead, the frames and the curly base are smeared with a brush with a thin layer of kitchen dishwashing gel.

So that the process of making tiles with your own hands does not drag on for months or years, you need to make at least 10 shapes.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a rather laborious process.

As molds for small-format paving slabs, you can use disposable plastic containers for packaging various products, filling them with mortar to a fixed depth. The turnover of such "forms" is 5-10 cycles, but this is offset by the negligible cost of used boxes.

Manufacturing technology of paving slabs by vibration casting

This method consists in filling with a cement-based solution of special forms with simultaneous or subsequent compaction of the contents by vibration.

Vibration casting can be produced using single-layer and double-layer technology.

Single layer method

One-layer technology consists in filling the molds with a solution, compaction on a vibrating table, followed by keeping the products in the molds for two days and stripping them. The strength and aesthetics of such a tile is lower than that of a two-layer paving stone made by vibration casting, therefore it is used for paving household areas that do not require high aesthetics.

Making vibropressed paving slabs is easier than making vibrocast

Two-layer vibration casting

When two-layer pouring, a solution with a coloring pigment is poured into the molds with a layer of 1-2 cm while vibrating. On top of the colored solution, without waiting for the face layer to set, the composition of the main layer without dye is poured flush with the edges of the molds and vibrated for 15-30 seconds. After 2 days, the products are removed from the molds and stored for drying in a cool place.

Regardless of the number of layers, mortar-filled forms cover plastic wrap to prevent premature evaporation of moisture and partial loss of strength of the paving stone.

The purpose of the face layer is to increase the strength characteristics and aesthetics of paving slabs. This layer is a durable shell with a glossy surface, painted in the selected color by adding a dye to the solution. If instead of gray cement M500, white cement of the same brand is used, then colored face layer can be made saturated without a gray tint.

Hand-made preparation of mortar for paving stones is economical option

Face-layer concrete components

To make the face layer durable, uniform and glossy, the following materials should be included in the solution:

• cement M500 (preferably white);
• crushed stone (granite, marble, gravel) fraction 5-10 mm;
• sifted sand in the ratio;
• water;
• color;
• dispersant.

Concrete recipe for the formation of the face layer

When performing kneading on the front layer, the weight ratio of the amount of cement and SHPS is 1: 2.

Using a specific operation as an example, let us consider the procedure for mixing the face layer solution in a concrete mixer. 10 liters of water is poured into the mixer, into which, in the case of the production of colored paving stones, a dye is preliminarily added. Then 750 grams are poured into it aqueous solution disperser, turn on the concrete mixer and sequentially fill in 3 buckets of ShchPS and Portland cement M500. After a minute of mixing, add 3 more buckets of dropout to the concrete mixer.

Mixing of concrete in a concrete mixer is performed in a specific sequence

Stirring is carried out for 15-20 minutes until the solution acquires a homogeneous consistency of thick sour cream, after which the mass is transferred from the concrete mixer to a bucket, and molding can be done.

The amount of color in the solution should be no more than 5% of the batch volume. The proportion used must be remembered in case you need to make an additional batch.

Formation of the face layer of the tile in the form

After lubrication inner surface forms, the prepared solution is laid out in them in a layer of 1-2 cm and compacted by vibration. In the absence of a vibrating table, you can get by by installing the molded products on a sheet of iron and tapping from below rubber mallet... Especially savvy craftsmen use a washing machine to vibrate, on which molds are placed when the centrifuge is operating in the spinning mode.

The main difference between paving stones and paving slabs lies in their shape.

Components of the base layer solution

In the formulation of the solution forming the base layer, the dispersant is replaced by a plasticizer. In the process of preparing the solution, one part of the M500 brand cement is mixed with three parts of the crushed stone-sand mixture. The plasticizer is added in the same amount as the dispersant to the face layer.

How to mix concrete to fill the base layer

Consider the technology for the production of a specific portion of the solution using a concrete mixer.

750 grams of an aqueous solution of a plasticizer are stirred in 12 liters of water, after which 5 buckets of SHPS and 3 buckets of M500 Portland cement are sequentially poured into a working mixer with liquid, after which another 3-4 buckets of dropout are added. There is no need to color the base material of paving slabs. The concrete is mixed for about a quarter of an hour and, upon reaching the consistency of sour cream, is discharged into a bucket.

To knead concrete for 1 square meter at home. paving stones 6 cm thick, you will need:

• Crushed stone-sand mixture - 90 kg;
• Cement M500 - 25 kg;
• Disperser - 120 grams;
• Plasticizer - 100 grams;
• Dye - 600-800 grams.

Reinforcement of paving stones and pouring of the base layer

To increase the strength of the tile, you can do the reinforcement of the product with your own hands. As a reinforcement, a cut-to-size "notch" (expanded metal sheet) made of steel sheet 1 or 2 mm thick is ideal. The cut pieces are laid on top of the grout of the facing layer of the tile and covered with concrete flush with the edges of the molds. Reinforcement of products at home can be done using also criss-cross pieces of thick wire or smooth rolled reinforcement, steel mesh.

To ensure the solidity of the tile, the filling of the second layer is carried out no later than 20 minutes after the formation of the first.

After the solution is compacted by vibration, the molds are laid for two days on a horizontal surface in a cool place until the concrete hardens.

Modern paving slabs are suitable for the arrangement of city or country yards

Removing the molds and removing the tiles

If the form is made with your own hands from wooden bars, then in one of the joints, the fastening screws are unscrewed, after which the frame is pushed apart, and the product is released. The paving stones are given another 10 days to cure and dry, laying the tiles in one layer in a cool room.

If polyurethane molds were used for the production of tiles, then the mold with the product is placed in a bath with warm (60 degrees) water for a couple of minutes to soften the polymer, after which the tile is removed and also placed in a cool place for 10 days until ready for use.

Considering that the tile must be in the form for two days, you can, having at your disposal 10 forms, daily remove 5 finished products and make 5 regular moldings.

Paving slabs can have various shapes, they lay out paths in the garden, they are used for playgrounds, parks, in summer cottages, and so on. This material is environmentally friendly and durable, giving the site a beautiful neat look. The tile can be made independently, if you follow the technology, you get high quality and originality. With self-production, you can significantly save money, such a tile is resistant to temperature changes, and can withstand various loads. A variety of colors will help to make the surface original.

What tools and materials should be used to make paving slabs at home?

In order for the tile to turn out to be of high quality, it is necessary to properly prepare the composition, in compliance with all proportions, and also ensure the natural drying of the product. For the manufacture of tiles, you must use:

• concrete mixer;
• vibration table, it can be purchased or made by yourself;
• special forms, you can also buy them in hardware stores or do it yourself.
• auxiliary materials are: a 10 liter bucket, gloves and a shovel. The following components are used for the manufacture of tiles:
• crushed stone, which has a fraction of up to 10 millimeters;
• cement 500, water and sand;
• additives of chemical origin, that is, a plasticizer and others;
• if necessary, then a dye;
• you will also need a mold lubricant.

Self-production technology of paving slabs

Making paving slabs at home is divided into several points:

1. First you need to prepare the forms.
2. Then the pouring solution is prepared.
3. Shaping the material using a vibrating table.
4. Time delay for solidification.
5. After hardening, the tiles must be removed from the molds, this is called stripping.

How to prepare molds for making tiles?

The molds can be rubber, plastic or polyurethane and can be used multiple times. Self-production molds can be made of wood or galvanized material. In order to get the finished plate in the future without any problems, the mold is lubricated special means... In this case, the forms serve for a long time, and are well cleaned of excess solution. The agent is applied in a small layer so that subsequently no pores remain on the board due to excessive application of fat.

Such a remedy can be prepared independently from 50 grams. engine oil and 1.5 liters of water, it must be stirred for a long time. You can also use vegetable oil or laundry soap diluted with water to lubricate the molds.

If a lubricant is not used, then a special antistatic agent is used before filling the molds, and after pulling out the plate, the container is treated with hydrochloric acid.

Preparing potting for slabs

First, it is necessary to prepare all the materials for preparing the fill, including the plasticizer and painting agents, if the tile is colored. The addition of plasticizer should be 0.5 percent of all constituent dry elements. For example, for 80 liters of solution, 400 grams of plasticizer is needed, it is first diluted with water, and then added to the solution. The coloring agent is diluted in the same way.

The concrete mixer must be wet, for this it is pre-rinsed with water. During the mixing of cement, more than 30 percent of the liquid is taken. For example, 4 parts of cement and 3 parts of water with the inclusion of a plasticizer and a coloring element, then the fill will be solid.

Water is poured into a concrete mixer, then cement and screenings are poured, and a diluted plasticizer, if necessary, then a dye. Stirring is carried out until smooth. In the absence of a concrete mixer, you can manually mix the pouring, but this will take a lot of effort.

Mold filling, curing time, and demoulding

After preparing the mixture, molds are poured with it, and in order to compact the concrete, a vibrating table is used. The mold should be filled up to a height of 4 centimeters, to save money, the mixture can be laid out in layers. However, the fill for the outer color layer must be made separately.

If crushed stone is not used in the solution, then it is necessary to make reinforcement using a special mesh to increase the strength of the product. It is placed between layers during pouring.

After filling the molds, they are installed on a vibrating table, under its action, the solution is compacted, so the resulting free space is filled. It is necessary to keep the forms on the vibration table for up to 5 minutes, when a white foam forms on top, which means that the air has escaped, and the tiles can be removed.

Then the molds are removed from the vibrating table and placed on a flat surface so that direct sunlight does not fall on the product. After two days, the tiles can be removed by submerging the mold in hot water. You can remove the stove with using the lung tapping rubber hammer along the walls of the container, this must be done carefully so that cracks do not go on the product. If you do not heat, then the tile may become defective or have a short service life.

After the slabs are removed, they are placed on pallets, covered with polyethylene, and left for a week to fully harden.

During solidification, all forms must be placed strictly vertically, otherwise the tiles will be uneven, that is, defective.

How to make a vibrating table by yourself?

By making a vibrating table yourself, you can save money on its purchase. For its construction you will need:

• a surface that can play the role of a table top, you can take a metallized sheet up to 5 mm thick;
• any kind of engine, you can from a washing machine;
• tire, 4 shock absorbers can be used or rope.

The engine is fixed in the lower part of the tabletop, and an eccentric is installed on the shaft. The flat surface is laid on the tire, mounted on shock absorbers or suspended by ropes in the form of a swing. The table top should be located strictly horizontally. In order to create vibration, prepared weights are suspended from the eccentric.

You can also build such a table in another way, for this you need:

• Chipboard, the sheet should be flat;
• Electrical engine;
• tires from the car.

An electric motor is screwed onto the edge of the sheet using large bolts, then a grinding wheel is fixed in the same way, which, when rotated, creates vibration over the entire surface. Bumpers are installed along the edges so that the forms do not fall down from the equipped table. The plane is installed on tires, and fixed on all sides with pipes.

The main advantages of paving slabs

Paving slabs have various advantages:

• It is resistant to temperature changes and also has a high quality index.
• Paving slabs have long term service.
• Thanks to the precise geometry, subsequent laying is effortless. Small areas you can lay it yourself.
• The product is made from natural elements, therefore it is considered environmentally friendly, does not emit toxic substances. The coating has no negative effect on nearby plants. It freely permits moisture and steam, so the soil under the tiles retains its original properties.
• The tile can be made in any desired shape, with the addition of the desired dye, this allows you to make the coating original.
• Such a coating has an affordable price, and if it is made independently, it allows you to save on costs altogether.
• Repairing tiles does not require special costs and efforts, it is enough to remove the damaged area and replace it with new material.

Basic rules for the manufacture of paving slabs

• It is necessary to strictly observe the entire number of added elements in order to improve the quality of the product.
• The inside of the mold should be smooth, then the tile will be made without chips and cracks. If they are reused, treatment and cleaning from the previous solution is necessary.
• If the mortar is prepared using a concrete mixer, then it must be moistened before starting work.
• Cement should not be less than 500 brands, otherwise the quality of the product will decrease.
• The plasticizer and paint are not added dry, but previously diluted in water.
• It is necessary to control the amount of liquid when preparing the mixture, there should not be too much of it, this will reduce the quality of the product.
• The molds must be lubricated before pouring in order to further simplify the removal of the tiles.
• The surface of the vibrating table must be flat so that the solution does not flow into one place where air will accumulate.
• For solidification, the molds are also placed strictly horizontally in order to avoid defects in the product.
• Before removing the tile from the mold, the bottom of the container is heated, then lightly tapped on the walls with a rubber hammer, the blows should not be strong so as not to damage the product.
• At the end of all the work, the tiles are laid on pallets, and covered with polyethylene, left for a week for full hardening.

Basic rules for laying paving slabs

First, you need to mark the tile laying area, put stakes, and pull the rope, if this is not done, you can get an uneven coating. When constructing a path, you must first walk along it in order to determine whether it will be comfortable.

It is also important to properly prepare the main surface for laying, the quality of the surface will depend on this. First, crushed stone is laid 15 centimeters high, then geotextiles, and sand, each material is compacted. After that, the dry mixture is scattered, and the tiles are laid.

The tiles can be installed on dry cement or on a thin layer of applied mortar.

When performing work, it is necessary to use a level to ensure that the surface is even.

When laying tiles, it is knocked out with a special mallet made of rubber or wood; for this, heavy objects cannot be used, as the product can be damaged.

During installation, you need to make a slight slope so that the water from precipitation can freely leave, and not stagnate in the middle part of the coating.

When preparing the base for the tiles, it is necessary to take into account the load that will be exerted on the surface during operation.

So that the tiles do not slide off, and the surface has a finished look, a border is installed, it should not be located below the level of the main coating.

Because of what the finished tile can deteriorate

During the hardening of the mortar or due to acid precipitation, white deposits may appear on the tiles, and this can also occur if poor-quality cement was used. You can fix this problem with special formulations for this material.

If the concrete has low frost resistance, cracks may occur on the product. This is due to the addition of the wrong amount of constituent elements, violation of the technology for preparing the mixture, and also if the solidification conditions are not met. Do not leave the product in open sunlight.

If the vibration mode is incorrectly set, pores may form in the stove, and the appearance may deteriorate. If the composition is hard, then vibration must be produced longer.

Using quality materials, and the implementation of precise technology, a durable product is obtained that has a long service life, is resistant to temperature changes, and its surface does not wear off.

One of better solutions for decoration of garden and sidewalk paths is paving slabs and paving stones. By making paving slabs at home, you can lay on an area of ​​any shape and size, give suburban area neat look and replace asphalt pavement.

The production of paving slabs is technologically uncomplicated, but a long process, since drying the tiles takes a lot of time and space.

Good paving slabs can withstand more than two hundred thawing and freezing cycles, they do not evaporate harmful substances when heated.

Equipment and raw materials

The vibrating table can be purchased ready-made, there are models that are supplied already with ready-made forms.

The reliability of the paving slabs produced at home depends on the quality of the raw materials, the correct proportions of the components of the concrete mix and well-established drying in natural conditions.

The technology for the production of paving slabs requires simple, affordable equipment and raw materials.

For equipment use:

1. Concrete mixer. A gravity concrete mixer is not recommended, it is better to take a forced action device.
2. Vibrating table. You can assemble it yourself or purchase a ready-made one.
3. Forms for plates. You can make the shape yourself. Manufacturers offer ready-made forms of various sizes and configurations.
4. Collecting shovel, 10 liter bucket and rubber gloves.

Components of concrete mix in the production of paving stones:

• crushed stone with a fraction of 3-10 mm of nonmetallic solid rocks (gravel or);
• sand;
• cement grade 500 (not lower than 400), without additives;
• chemical additives (concrete modifiers, plasticizers, etc.);
• dyes (dry pigments);
• grease;
• pure water.

Forms for production

Forms for the production of tiles have various standard sizes, the most popular are forms of complex outlines.

The process includes several stages:

• preparation of forms;
• mixtures;
• shaping on a vibrating table;
• holding products in molds during the day;
• stripping of products;
• packing, storage.

The manufacture of products requires the use of plastic, rubber and rubber-like (polyurethane) molds. All forms withstand a certain number of forming cycles: plastic - from 230 to 250, rubber - 500 cycles, polyurethane - from 80 to 100 cycles.

Plastic molds are preferred. The technology provides for some nuances of forming and stripping paving slabs. Before you start making tiles with your own hands, the molds are lubricated with a special lubricant for high-quality stripping. Lubrication extends mold life up to 500 cycles or more. Before doing the next pouring, it is better to wash oiled forms after stripping. For beginners, it is better to purchase ready-made grease. But if desired, it is made independently.

It is important to accurately guess the proportions here. A lubricant for plastic molds is made as follows: 50 g of engine oil is added to 1.5 liters of water. This mixture needs to be shaken for a long time and very well. Experiment with extreme caution with proportions. It is important to determine the optimal fat balance. Too much grease will turn the entire batch into a waste. After such a lubrication, shells form in the tile. This paving slab is very similar to the shell rock. And the low fat content of the grease will not give the desired effect when stripping.

When working without the use of lubricant, new forms must be treated with a special antistatic agent, and after stripping each form, each form is inspected, and if necessary, rinse with 5-10% hydrochloric acid.

To keep the surface of the mold intact, it is impossible to use lubricants that contain petroleum products. It is necessary to apply lubricant on the surface of the forms with a thin layer, since its excess on the surface of the finished product creates pores.

Plasticizers and colorants

In the manufacture of paving slabs, one should not save on pigment dyes, the proportion of which in concrete should be at least 2%.

Before you start preparing the concrete mix with your own hands, you need to prepare the concrete mixer. The concrete mixer is rinsed with a bucket of water from the inside. Water must be poured out.

Concrete for the manufacture of tiles must be prepared half wet, since this will determine its strength and the holding time of the product in the molds. Wet walls mix the mortar better and prevent plaque from clogging the concrete mixer. Next, a concrete dye and a plasticizer are prepared.

The plasticizer is 0.5% of the sum of all components of the cement slurry in dry form. You will need 200 g of plasticizer per 40 liters of concrete. In no case should the plasticizer be added dry. First you need to cook it. In 1 liter of hot water (about 70-80 degrees) we dilute 200 g of plasticizer. For it to dissolve, the water must be hot. From a measuring cup to hot water, breaking well, add in small portions a plasticizer in powder. The precipitate should not remain, it is necessary that it dissolves well.

Next, we prepare a pigment dye for concrete. The dye ratio is at least 2% of all dry components. When making a good one, do not skimp on dye. It should make concrete saturated color, which will be able to maintain its shade for years. If you save on plasticizer costs, the tiles will lose their color in a year or two.

Better to apply the fill technology in two layers. The molds are half filled with colored concrete and a trace of colorless. This tile will be much stronger. But the break between filling each layer should be no more than 20 minutes. In this way, you can save an expensive dye in half. The dye in the amount of 800 g is pre-diluted in 3 liters of water with a temperature of 40-50 degrees. Mix very well and add in small portions. Precipitation in the dye should not be allowed. Sediment can damage the tiles. A small lump of dye sediment makes a sink on the face of the tiles. Paving slabs will lose their strength and presentation due to poorly diluted dye.

Mixing concrete

Concrete for the preparation of paving slabs is made semi-dry, since excessive moisture impairs the quality of the tiles.

When the molds are already lubricated, the pigment dye and plasticizer are diluted, and the concrete mixer is moistened, it's time to hammer the concrete. Do-it-yourself paving slab production technology has its own characteristics in the preparation of concrete. This is a small volume of water. Fortress concrete products directly depends on the ratio of water and cement.

When 30% more liquid is added, the concrete will lose half its strength. The solution should be half wet. Initially, it seems too dry, but after contact with the vibrating table it turns out to be too wet. This focus arises in the production of paving slabs. Because of this, 30% less water is added than cement.

Three buckets of cement are mixed with two buckets of water, including dye and plasticizer. This concrete is difficult to mix. For this purpose, it is necessary to pre-moisten the concrete mixer. Now turn on the concrete mixer. First, pour in a portion of water without plasticizer and dye. Then add cement and mix until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained. Then add screenings and get a solution. Mix well and add diluted components: dye and plasticizer. All this is kneaded until a homogeneous mass, beautiful in color, is obtained.

Deforming products

Forms are filled with ready-made concrete and placed on a vibrating table. The number of shapes plays a big role in the strength of vibration. The springs at the table must not be too overloaded or too loose. You need vibration of a certain intensity. After switching on the vibrating table turns into liquid.

Deforming of paving slabs is carried out on a special heated table.

There is more space in the forms, they need to be filled in more. At first glance, the forms contain liquid concrete, however, if you turn them over, the content does not wake up to fall out, but sticks tightly to the edges in the forms, which means that everything is going right.

The vibration should continue for about 4 or 5 minutes. Do not turn off the vibrating table until foam appears in the forms. white... This means that the air has escaped from the concrete. After that, the molds are removed and carried to a room protected from sunlight. The tile dries up in a day. This is facilitated by the low liquid content and plasticizer in the composition. The plasticizer gives elasticity, effectively dries and increases the strength of concrete products. After a day, stripping is done and the tile is ready.

Deforming of products is carried out on a special table with vibration. In order to facilitate demoulding, molds with curly products should be heated for 2 or 3 minutes in hot water (45-50 °). This uses the thermal expansion of polymers in comparison with concrete.

It should be noted that stripping, carried out without preheating, reduces the service life of the molds by about 30%, and can also lead to product rejects, especially for thin products.

Vibrating table for tiles

At the end of the stripping, the tiles are placed on pallets and tied with packing tape. To ensure further hardening of the concrete and to maintain presentation, products are covered with polyethylene or stretch wrap.

She needs to lie down for five days. This gives it maximum strength. After removing the formwork, the forms must be washed. The concrete is too tenacious and leaves marks on the forms. Plain water does not wash them, so a lot of salt is used. Saline solution with a high concentration must be prepared in advance. This greatly facilitates and speeds up the cleaning of plastic molds for paving slabs.

Making a vibrating table with your own hands from available materials will cost several times cheaper than purchasing it. Devices and materials that will be needed for the first method:

• a used worktop or a straight sheet of metal (at least 5 mm);
• a motor (for example, an engine from an unnecessary washing machine);
• car tire, rope or 4 shock absorbers.

An eccentric is installed on the shaft near the engine, the engine is attached to the bottom of the old tabletop. It is placed on a tire, mounted on shock absorbers (by first inserting them into sleeves) or suspended from ropes, like a swing. Necessary condition: The plane must be exactly horizontal. The required vibration level is achieved experimentally, by hanging weights on the eccentric.

To make a vibrating table with your own hands in the second way, you need:

• sharpener motor;
• car tires.

Bolts with wide washers fix the electric motor to the edge of the chipboard sheet. A homemade large metal washer will help fix a grinding wheel with an inner diameter larger than the motor shaft. When rotating, vibration is transmitted along the chipboard sheet and the entire structure. The slats are fixed in a circle so that the forms do not fall off the table. The device is placed on tires and pipe sections are driven in from all sides. The compact design can be easily assembled and disassembled by hand.

Owners of country houses and summer cottages often use paving slabs as a covering of paths and driveways. There are different requirements for such a coating depending on the place of its use. The same can be said for the styling method. If the production of paving slabs will be carried out at home, then special attention should be paid to the manufacturing technology and preparation of the solution, since it depends on performance characteristics material and its durability.

The advantages of self-production

Self-production of paving slabs has the following advantages:

• significant savings on the improvement of the local area;
• confidence in the quality of the product;
• as a result, you will receive a unique and beautiful product;
• the ability to choose the appropriate color and design for the general style of the site;
• long service life.

In addition, the process of producing paving slabs at home is quite exciting. He will help to reveal your hidden talents, will give you a reason to be proud of the result.

Which is better: vibrocast or vibropressed tiles?

The technology for the production of paving slabs involves the manufacture of two types of coating:

1. Vibrated tiles more often used in private construction. Outwardly, it is smoother and more beautiful due to its rich color and heterogeneous structure. The manufacturing technology is quite simple: a solution is poured into the molds, then they are installed on a vibrating platform. During the vibration, air bubbles are removed and the mixture evenly fills the mold. After drying, the products are removed from the molds and additionally dried.
2. Tiles obtained by vibrocompression, stronger and more durable. It is suitable for high traffic areas. The manufacturing process of this product requires the use of special technological equipment. Externally, the product is obtained with a homogeneous structure and a rough surface.

Pressed products are distinguished by a limited choice of shapes and colors, but they are more durable, durable, moisture resistant. Due to the absence of pores, such elements do not crumble and are resistant to abrasion. But making them at home will not work, since tiles can only be pressed on a special machine.

The method of making a vibrocast coating is simpler and suitable for self-fulfillment... But you can mold any shape and choose the appropriate color. This tile is suitable for paving garden paths outdoors, but not for places with heavy traffic and loads (for example, near a garage).

Necessary materials

To make paving slabs at home, you will need the following materials:

1. The main component in the composition of the solution is cement. The quality of the product depends on its characteristics. For the solution, take cement grade M 400-500. High grade cement will give the product strength, increase its moisture resistance and frost resistance.

Advice! Buy only fresh cement, as it loses some of its qualities during long-term storage. To check the freshness of the cement, squeeze a handful of powder in your hand. If you get a lump, do not use this composition. Fresh cement wakes up through the fingers without forming a lump.

1. IN cement mix filler must be added. It can be large and small:
   • small crushed stone, granule sifting, pebbles or slag is used as a coarse aggregate (the filler must be cleaned);
   • sand with a grain fraction of up to 0.6 mm acts as a fine filler (use sand without clay and impurities).

1. The water in the solution must be clean, at room temperature.
2. Another component is a plasticizer. It comes in the form of a ready-made mixture and in powder. Plasticizers increase the elasticity of the mortar, reduce the consumption of water and cement, increase the density of concrete and facilitate the mixing process. An additive called Superplasticizer C-3 is considered the best, but you can also use Polyplast SP-1, PLASTIMIX F, Westplast or Master Silk. Plasticizers in the mixture provide high moisture resistance and frost resistance of the product, as well as its wear resistance.
3. Dye or coloring pigment allows you to get tiles of the desired color. Choose lightfast dyes. Since pigments cost a lot, it is beneficial to add dye only to upper layer tiles, and the lower one is made of ordinary gray concrete.
4. Fiber is a reinforcing additive to increase the strength of the product. Used as a reinforcing fiber polypropylene fiber with a fiber length of up to 2 cm and a diameter of up to 50 microns.

Important! The length of the reinforcing fiber should not be larger diameter large aggregate.

1. Die lubricant needed to facilitate the removal of tiles. There are special lubricants on sale (Emulsol or Lirossin), but substitutes are often used instead:
   • vegetable oil;
   • used engine oil;
   • soap solution.

Equipment and tools

You will need the following equipment for the production of paving slabs:

1. A concrete mixer is needed only for large volumes of work, and so you can get by with a shovel or trowel.
2. Vibrating table for tamping the mixture in the form and removing air bubbles. Instead, tapping or shaking is used.

Advice! It is not difficult to make a simple vibrating table from a conventional washing machine operating in spin mode.

1. Drying racks. At this point, the product is dried in molds for three days and another week after being removed from the matrix.
2. Forms are bought on the Internet. They are of several types:
   • silicone blanks are suitable for products of complex configuration with a structural surface (the disadvantage of silicone is that it swells under the pressure of concrete, the matrix can withstand up to 50 cycles);
   • plastic products are suitable for a simple pattern (they are strong, flexible and durable, withstand 800 cycles);
   • polyurethane are more expensive than silicone, but hold their shape better (withstand up to 100 cycles).

Preparation of the solution

Making paving slabs with your own hands begins with preparing a solution. The proportion of ingredients is as follows:

• sand - 56 percent;
• fine crushed stone or granulation - 23%;
• cement - 21%;
• coloring pigment - 7 percent of the volume of concrete;
• water - no more than 5.5% of the amount of concrete;
• plasticizer - 0.7% of concrete;
• fiberglass - for each cubic meter of concrete, approximately 0.05% of its total volume.

From one cubic meter of mortar, 16.5 m² of tiles are obtained, provided that their thickness is 6 cm. To obtain a high-quality solution, the ingredients are mixed in the following sequence:

1. First, mix some water and a plasticizer. The mixture is poured into a concrete mixer. For mixing, use only warm water because the cold liquid does not dissolve the additives. It is important to monitor the complete dissolution of the plasticizer.
2. The dye is diluted hot water(for 1 part of the pigment, take 3 parts of water). Make sure that the solution is free of lumps.
3. After that, crushed stone and sand are added.
4. Now it's time to put cement in the concrete mixer. In the process of adding it, periodically add water for better mixing.
5. At the end of the batch, pour out the bulk of the water.

Important! The finished mixture adheres well to a trowel without spreading, and when placed in a mold it easily fills it.

Tile manufacturing sequence

It is important to lubricate the mold so that there is no excess or lack of lubrication. In the first case, depressions form on the product, and in the second, it will be difficult to remove it from the mold. Let's start pouring the solution:

• in the production of two-color tiles, first pour a colored solution to ¼ of the height of the mold, and no later than 20 minutes add a gray solution (the interval between fillings should not be increased, as this will lead to poor adhesion between layers);
• after pouring, the molds are shaken and placed on a vibrating table for 5 minutes;
• the appearance of a white foam on the surface indicates the release of air bubbles from the solution;
• Excessive vibratory ramming leads to stratification of the solution, so the mold is removed from the vibrating table when the white foam settles on the surface.

Attention! In the manufacture of two-color tiles, tamping is performed after the first and second layers. The duration of the second vibration is no more than three minutes. At the same time, no foam appears.

The completed forms are then placed on the drying racks. It lasts up to three days. The racks are placed in a ventilated place where there is no access sun rays... To reduce the rate of evaporation of moisture and protect against cracking, the molds are covered with polyethylene.