How to make a hunting knife. Manufacture of knife with their own hands

Hunting knives are an indispensable attribute of a real hunter. Although some believe that this weapon serves only to finish the beast, good hunting knives are capable of solving many tasks arising from the hunter.

The best hunting knives can be used for the following operations:

To see the beast;
Removal of the skins;
Cutting an animal extracted on the hunt;
Will help equip the camp;
Can be used for cooking and cutting products.

Some hunters have several good knife excellent qualityEach of which is used for its purposes:

Cutting knives are applied only for cutting production and removal of the skins (although some hunters also use a special shuron knife);
The "camp" knife is used only for the arrangement of the camp. As a rule, this is a massive knife of the Lukku or Tesman;
Knives for products. It can be both ordinary kitchen knives and universal Finnish-type knives.

Many product cutting hunters use folding hunting knifewhich does not take up much space in the backpack, and in the extreme case, can be used as a backup knife.

The history of the appearance of the first hunting knives

The first knives appeared at the dawn of the development of humanity and were stones with a sharp face that helped to cut production. Soon there were knives of silica, which was attached to the handles, due to which the convenient hold of the knife in the hand was provided. Already then the knife was a personal weapon, and every person tried to have his own knife. In primitive hunters, the stone knives differed large size and mass. In addition, they were significantly reliable than ordinary knives, which were used for cutting production, as the knife on the hunt was often required to perform protective functions.

It was at that time that the knives were conventionally divided into 3 groups:

Household knives that were most often used by women;
Martial knives whose main task was to serve as a warrior's additional weapon;
Hunter knives.

After the opening of metal processing technologies, the differences between the data of the species have become increasingly, the combat and hunting knives began to decorate threads and precious stones. The knife served as an indicator of the owner status. The dimensions of the hunting knife often exceeded even the size of the combat knives, as for killing a large beast, the length of the blade should be appropriate.

Ornately decorated hunting knives, along with martial weapons, served as an excellent gift to leaders and various rulers. The handles of such hunting knives were often incrusted by a pearl. Even in our time, bouquet knives or hunting knives from Damascus will be a great gift for any man. Handmade knives are considered the most valuable.

Hunting knives with fixed blade

The most popular hunters are knives with a fixed blade. A similar design is traditional for hunting knife, and this knife is ready to work immediately after removing from the sheath. In order to understand why the hunter is better to have a knife with a fixed blade, you need to consider the advantages of knives of such a design:

The knife does not need to open before use, it means it is immediately ready for work;
When working should not be afraid that the blade will turn on the fingers;
The blade of the hunting knife with a fixed blade can be much longer than that of the folding, so it is more suitable for protection against a sudden attack of the beast;
On folding knives, it is rare to meet high-quality steel on the blades, as this significantly increases the value of the knife.

A minus knife with a fixed blade only one, he takes too much space and is practically not suitable for hidden wearing.

Knives with a fixed blade are 3 main species, which differ from each other by the options for fastening blades hunting knives in the handles:

The most popular is the overseas installation, when the blade shank enters into the handle on 2/3 of its length. When buying such a knife, it makes sense to ask the drawing, which will show schematically depicting the depth of the shank in the handle. You can, of course, try to check it with a magnet, but this is an unfortunate way. Such a shank may not withstand the load, and the knife will break at the most inopportune moment;
Through the installation of the blade is when the shank passes through the entire handle. In this case, the knife is sufficiently breaking enough, although it is possible;
Most. reliable option It is a all-metal hunting knife, which has overlays from two sides of the handle. Such knives are rarely found in hunters, since their appearance sufficiently inflated.

Most historical hunting knives were attached to the overseas installation. This is not connected with what I liked so more, but with the fact that the metal was quite expensive, and I tried in vain not to spend.

Folding hunting knives

Folding hunting knives formally do not refer to the category "Hunting". Nevertheless, some famous knife firms produce folding knives for hunters. Many high-generation hunters remember the Folding Knife of the USSR "Protein", which was intended for hunters, and knives with an extractor of the production of PC "Moscow Society of Hunters". Since these knives were not particularly suitable for hunting, in those days preferred to use hunting number knives that were sold in special stores, or various homemade knives.

From modern folding knives that claim the title of "hunting", it is possible to note sufficiently high-quality multifunctional products from Wenger and Victorinox firms. These knives will be an excellent addition to the main hunting knife, the main thing to choose the "correct" model.

"National" hunting knives

National Hunting Knives are very popular among modern hunters. Naturally, this is not all models, but only a few who have proven their effectiveness in different climatic conditions. Russian hunters are most popular Knives of Finnish, Yakut and Scandinavian types:

Finnish knives "Puukko" won great popularity not only in the CIS, but also around the world. Data knives externally do not look like terrible hunting knives, however, their effectiveness is proved by centuries. This knife is suitable for cutting production and for various business works. It is characterized by a barrel-type handle and the presence of a flip in front of the blade. The effectiveness of PUKCO as weapons was repeatedly proven by Finns during the Soviet-Finnish war. If you use Pukko to protect against the beast, you must definitely leave the end of the handle in the palm, otherwise you can seriously cut your hand. Knife this type Not recommended novice hunters who do not know how to handle knives;
Finnish knives "Leuku" can be used to arrange the camp. Knives of this type are more similar to Tesakov. Represent a practically unchanged shape of an ancient combat knife. Perfectly suitable for felling of stories and twigs, will help to clear the path in the taiga. In case of danger, it will become a formidable weapon;
Yakut knives are the most ancient appearance of knives. Their form resembles the knives of the stone century, which were made from half of the bone. The special shape of the blade is perfect for planing of the murous meat and wood work, it does not allow to stick in the material. Happens performed for the right-handed and left-handers;
Scandinavian type hunting knives also won tremendous popularity worldwide. Them main feature - These are special "Scandinavian" descents, where the cutting edge of the knife is formed directly with the descents, without coupling. Allows you to work more effectively on wood and murm meat than traditional knives.

Steel for hunting knives and materials for handle

If you do not even want to make a hunting knife with your own hands, knowledge knife steels And the materials used for the knife handle will help you when buying a hunting knife. The list of the most popular knife steels is as follows:

The cheapest stainless steelwhich is used for hunting knives is 45x13. From her often make kitchen knives, as it is easily sharpened and does not rust. Factory hunting knives from this steel are extremely rare, but the homemade hunting knives are often found. This steel is easily processed, but also easy and stupid. It is not recommended to buy hunting knives from this steel;
The next stainless steel, which is often used in the manufacture of inexpensive hunting knives - it is 65x13. It is suitable for a tourist, but for a real hunter, which often seals large prey, is weak. As it quickly loses sharpening;
Steel 95x18 is optimal option By criteria price / quality. Quite well cuts for 2-3 trips to hunt;
Various instrumental steel, like SHH-15 or "diamonds", are also well suited for knives, but require permanent care, as they are subject to corrosion;
Damascus steel on knives, besides what it has a good sharp, it also looks very original. Hunting knives from damask steel are a real work of art;
Boulat steel possess very "floating" quality. Throughout Russia, only a few Kuznetsov know how to cook high-quality bouquet steel;
Modern powder steel has outstanding characteristics that are even superior to the legendary bout. Knives of these steels are usually very expensive.

For the manufacture of knife handles, many are used different materials, ranging from plastic, ending with the wrist of Mammoth. As a rule, natural materials are chosen for the hunting knives. This is a tree of various breeds, horn, bone, set of leather. Latvia, copper or titanium are used for spacers and combstors. Handle out natural materials Perfectly lies in hand, although it requires systematic care.

How to make a hunting knife with your own hands

If you do not know how to make a hunting knife with your own hands, then the drawing of a knife can be found on the Internet. Choosing the drawing that will like more, you can start making a knife. The most difficult thing is the manufacture of a blade. It can be seen or drop out of a suitable metal strip.

If you can not cut the blade yourself, you can buy it ready, and independently make a handle for it. For the handle, you need to choose a dry tree bar, which can also be purchased in specialized knife stores. It will be necessary to need a friend who will have to cut from a brass or copper plate.

In the future handle throws through holeTo which the blade shank will be inserted. From the reverse side, the shank is opened or clamping a nut. After that, the handle is attached to the form that suits you. Next, the handle is grouped and impregnated with special oil. After the impregnation process is over, the handle can be polished with wax.

Sharpening hunting knives

The hunting knife should always be sharp. For this you need to learn how to point correctly. The sharpening process is to bring the cutting edge to razor sharpness, by the interaction of the grinding stone and the blade of the knife. The better and hard steel on hunting knife, the longer it will have to be sharpened.

First, on a rough water stone, you need to form a cutting edge. Then, gradually moving to the stones of less grain, this edge is grouped. After grinding, the edge needs to polish, using the goe pasted on it for it. When sharpening a hunting knife, the main thing to observe the sharpening angle.

The choice of hunting knives is extremely large, so to buy a knife for hunting should be approached very responsibly. It is not necessary to acquire the most huge and threatening knife, he will not be able to even perform work on the cutting carcass. It is better to stop your choice on the universal hunting knife, which "will" fall into your hand.

That's how I make my knives. Yes, this lesson is no different from the rest. Do I worry about this? Not. And it looks like you too. In the end, you read it.
I posted just a few posts, but this does not mean that I did not make a lot of things.
Knife design
As can be seen from the name, this is a hunting knife. Design I could come up with myself, but I decided to print a template from the Internet.
Carry out the outlines

This stage comes after you have gotten suitable material. I used carbon steel brand 85. It has excellent qualities and is easily heat treatment.
Combine the contour of the knife permanent marker. It can make sweat, but you will succeed. You are still taught in the kindergarten.
Cut out the workpiece

It is time to make a piece of metal look like a knife, but not yet on hunting. For this work, I use an angular grinding with a cutting circle. So far, ideal accuracy is not important, it is always easier to achieve with a sharpening machine. Therefore, leave sophisticated places for him.
Work on a grinding machine and grinding circuit blade

Now the workpiece can be given the outline of the real knife. Bring everything to perfection. Let the knife look better than you could imagine.
Or not. I'm not worried about this.
Closer to business: Let his form will repeat the line that you brought the marker.
Then you need to align the edges. I made a blade look like a Scandinavian. I did not make photographs, but for this procedure it is necessary to just keep the blade at the desired angle and grind it.
Drill holes for rivets

This is my unloved part of the knife manufacturing process. For some reason, the drilling of holes in the metal scares me. Perhaps because everything ends with broken drills.
And yet, drill a few holes in the shank, the location choose at your discretion. I also did a dwelling hole, but you can stick to your chosen design.
For handles, I used 5-mm rivets from silver alloy and nickel. You can still use bronze rods that are sold in large shopping stores.
Heat treatment

Thermal processing is my favorite part. What it is? I will tell. The piece of steel over which you work are very soft. So it is easier to cut, grind and give it fit form. The reverse side of this is a metal too soft to be a knife. Therefore, it needs to be done more hard. The rays will split the metal to red in the mountain, and then dip it into the oil. The oil creates it very quickly. The only drawback is the metal becomes very fragile, like glass, and can crash, for example, if you drop it. Therefore, it needs to hold it in the oven for several hours at a temperature of 200 ° C. Moderately heated, the metal is made a little softer, until it becomes perfect for the knife blade.
So I did. I warm it up to 800 ° C and then plunged into the vegetable oil (the process caused a spectacular burning), and then placed the knife into the oven.
If you doubt, that is easy way Make sure the knife warms up to the required temperature.
If you doubt the temperature, it can be easily checked with a magnet. If the metal stopped magazine, then the blade was heated to 750 ° C. Retrieve it in Mountains for a few more seconds and then cool.
Lining on handles

First you need to find suitable tree. I used a black walnut because it looks good, and I was at hand. But you can use any kind of solid wood, the main thing is that it be well sucked. Why dry? Because the wet will eventually be deformed and dying, and completely spoil your knife.
So, cut the lining of the size of a little more than the knife shank.
Drill holes in the lining

I have not yet found a way to do it normally, because it is difficult to securely consolidate the lining relative to the shank. Every time I do not go wrong. In general, try and echo.
Somehow do the holes in them so that they coincide with the shank holes.
Gluing epoxy resin

This is one of the stages, which causes me irritation. I do not know why.
You will need two-component epoxy resin. (glue), preferably with long drying time. It is difficult for me to work with a resin that freezes in five minutes, it adds stress. I used JB Weld, but any two-component glue should work. Sorry that there are no more photos with the gluing process, but I hurried and forgot about it. Everything is quite simple. Mix the components together on something, such as a piece of cardboard. Then, using a wand from ice cream or something like that, apply glue to the lining, shank, rivets. Next, hush the cuttings of the clamp, make sure the glue did not hit the blade and expect the time specified in the instruction. In my case it is 24 hours.
Giving shape of handles

Now our linings and rivets are securely glued. It has time to give a handle form. I started with an angular grinding machine with a petal radial circle. It removes the material pretty quickly, so you need to be more close, but at this stage the circle copes perfectly. Basically, it is necessary to work on the lining until glue is visible on the handle.
Giving rounds of handles and thin grinding

I was not fond of photographing this process, but everything is quite clear with him. Using the angular grinding with the petal circle, carefully apply the lining shape. Then go to the tape grinding machine For more thin work. If the shape suits you, then you can grind manually with the help of sandpaper with small grain, do it until you get tired.
Polishing handles
It is a pity that there are no photos of this stage, but there is nothing to show here.
Apply a means for finishing wood polishing on your choice. I used beeswax with melted linseed oil.
Here is a knife!

Congratulations, you just did a knife. Now some fun pictures can be used.
This knife is cool, it remains sharp for a long time and is easy to sharpen. In terms of its functionality, he does not differ from the purchase.
As can be seen in the last photo, I made a kaydex screaming for him.
Just in case, sorry for the quality of the pictures, the lighting in my workshop is not very good.
Thanks for attention!
ORIGINAL ARTICLE IN ENGLISH

Distinctive features

There are many varieties of hunting knives, each of which is capable of performing a set of operations. All of them are unique in their own way. This kind of knife was not yet developed, which would be completely universal. Often such fixtures are made individually.

Hunting knives have their own distinctive features:

For the convenience and efficiency of work, the center of gravity shifts closer to the handle. As a result, there is a reduction in the load on the brush, and the work is moving much more productive.
The size of the handle is wider than blades.
Depending on the hunter's habit, the flanque length is made different, but average value is 12-15 mm.

The material for the handle is selected depending on the place of residence. In conditions of harsh frost, it is made of wood, iron will try to hand. On its surface there should be no patterns or recesses under the fingers.

Mandatory blade is located in the sheath. At the same time, the blade is protected from influence external conditionsAnd a person eliminates the risk of unexpected injury. They are made of leather or wood. Equipped with straps for garter to clothing.

Independent manufacture

Production of a knife at home - the process is complex. The reasons for which hunters go to it are that it is difficult to find such a species that would have answered individual requests.

The manufacturing process consists of stages:

Selection of tools and material for blade.
Drawing up drawing and knife manufacturing.
Sharpening tool.
Production of the handle.
Manufacturing of a sheath.

Tools and materials

Tools are harvested as follows:

Crafting table.
Vice.
Emery.
Drill.
Winged drills.
Natural paper of varying degrees of grain.
Abrasive circles.
Diamond Natfil.
A hammer.
Chisels.
Rectifier current.

The perfect material for the blade is the Damascus Steel. However, it is difficult to find, because technological process Its manufacturer is very complex. Therefore, the blanks of the high-speed steel of the R6M5 brand are prepared. In addition, you can use the brands: 40x13, 65x13, 50x14mf, 95x18, 65g, x12m, x12mf.

Breeds are used as wood for handle: cherry, birch, beech, maple, pear. Good option is the material of old furniture.

A brass or bronze plate for sleeves is prepared. For rivets brass rod.

Production of Klinka

Before starting work, the drawing is designed. Whatever kind of blade has been manufactured, the principle of work is the same. Differences only in configuration.

The workpiece is taken and the drawing-stencil is superimposed on it, which was made on a 1: 1 scale. The contour of the product will be burned on the metal, marker, pencil or special tillery for metal. It is important that the lines are clearly visible.

Using the emery is removed excess metal to the battered lines. In places of transition of the blade in the shank form radii. The angle is not allowed, since in these places there are immediately formed voltage concentrators, which will lead to a loss at high loads.

The further is made in the tail part of the rivet hole. If it does not work with the help of a winning drill, the manufacture is conducted by electrolysis. To do this, dissolves in water with a table salt and a DC source is connected with a voltage of 27 V.

The billet is covered with varnish and wrapped with insulating tape. In the place of the future hole ribbon is cut. In the process of electrolysis, a positive charge is supplied to the workpiece, and the electrolyte is negative. When contacting a hole is formed. By time it takes 3 hours. To give it an oval form, a diamond pressure is used.

Sharpening blade

The tool sharpening at home is carried out using abrasive stones. In length, they are up to 25 cm and have a small or medium grain. The order of work is as follows:

The abrasive tool of medium grain is laid and fixed on the workbench.
In the process of work, the blade is heated, so the bar is wetted by vegetable oil.
The blade at it is stacked at a certain angle.
Holding it with two hands and pushing down, the blade with an effort is stretched forward. So it is done several times on the one hand, and then on the other.
The stretching is carried out until the same, shiny bands will appear from 2 sides, which in width occupy 2/3 blades.
The bar is changing to fine-grained.
The same movements are carried out only without pressure. This stage is called the refinement.
At the last stage there is a right. It is carried out by sliding along the surface of the belt of each side of the blade.
The quality control of sharpening goes by cutting a sheet of newspaper located vertically.

Manufacturing of the handle

Before working wood dried. In length, the workpiece takes a little longer than the blade.

For a dense fit of the brass tube, on the one hand the handle is formed a cut.
In the sleeve is made a hole under the shank. If it turns out less desired size, then the tail is steady.
Shell is planted on a tree right place under rivet.
Epoxy resin is poured into the hole.
Shank is inserted. The blade rests on B. wooden surface And there is a strong pressure that it takes its position.
The hole is drilled and the rivet is installed in it.
From the surface of the handle is processed emery paper.

Manufacture of Scabble

If the sheath is planned wooden, it is better to use wooden planks from boxes. As a rule, they are pine.

In both components, wood is chosen in such a quantity so that the blade goes. Using the metal hacksaw, the required form indulges. With the help of epoxy glue, both halves are connected. The hole is drilled below, water flow through it.

If the case is sewn out of leather, then old boots are suitable for this. The blade of the knife must be tightly entering the case. For wearing it is sewn straps.

Hunting knife required tool For hunter. Without it, it is impossible to go on the hunt. Before its manufacture, you need to present well what it should have functions. The main emphasis is placed on the selection of steel. The quality of the knife depends on this. A project is drawn up, the tools are prepared, the manufacturing process begins.

Hello fishermen and hunters, I present to your attention strong, beautiful, high-quality knifewhich you can make your own hands. Such a knife will be an excellent friend at tourism, on hunting, fishing and other similar events. Despite the fact that the knife looks very high quality, it is not so difficult to make it yourself. You will need a minimum set of tools for this, the most difficult to perform grinding and polishing, if you do not have a grinding machine, a grinding machine, and so on.

But that the knife turns out strong and high quality, it is necessary to choose good steel for it. Unfortunately, the author did not indicate which brand it began to use. But nowadays you can buy a blank for a knife of any brand of steel. The most important thing is that the steel has in its composition a sufficient amount of carbon for quenching. By the way, good steel Used in old Soviet files, various incisors and other tools. So consider in more detail how to make such a wonderful knife!

Materials and tools that used

List of materials:
- carbon steel for blade;
- wood for lining;
- sheet brass for handle;
- brass or steel pins;
- epoxy adhesive.

List of tools:
- Ribbon grinding machine;
- orbital grinding machine;
- Bulgarian with cutting and grinding discs;
- grinder;
- drill or drilling machine;
- Bormashin;
- a hammer;
- sandpaper;
- Japanese water stone or another sharpening tool;
- Blacksmith furnace and oil for quenching.

Knife manufacturing process:

Step one. Cut the main rough profile
To begin with, prepare the source material and apply a template on it. Ready template You can find on the Internet, for example, there are quite a lot of them on the Pinterest resource. Scaling the drawing properly and print on the printer, then cut out. You can cut a pattern from the cardboard, it is enough for a long time, and another template can be held in your hands and estimate how the future knife will look like.

Next, we transfer the template to the workpiece. The author for convenience crushed the "body" knife green. If the pattern is made of paper, it can be easily glued to the workpiece. We proceed to cutting, for these purposes the author used the usual grinder. The workpiece is securely secure clamp. There should be no direct lines of problems, but you will have to try with bends. To cut bends, make a row of transverse slots. After that you can cut the pieces of metal sectors. Of course, there will be a lot of uncircumcised metal, but now it can be easily removed.

Step second. Primary grinding
After cutting, we need to bring the contour of the blade to mind. For these purposes, we go with a knife to grinding machine, remove everything too much. We also go through the contour on the tape grinding machine. Bends can be easily treated with a bormer with an appropriate nozzle. Best of all, the nozzle from the sandpaper is coping with this task.

Step Three. We form the squeaks
This is a very responsible moment in the processing of the blade. We need to form squeaks, that is, the sharpening angle of the blade. To begin with, we make markup, for this, the author uses a caliper. It is also necessary to divide the future of the blade for two halves, so you will be very comfortable to run the metal on both sides of equal thickness. This line is usually carried out by the drill of the same diameter as the thickness of the blade.

For a start, we take a file and apply the end of the beep on the blade. Well, then apply a grinder with a grinding nozzle and remove the extra metal. When everything is ready, we carry out more subtle treatment on the ribbon grinding machine. At the end, we take place in the mock with files, grind the sandpaper and polishing if you wish.

Step fourth. Drill holes
Drills in the knob of the hole hole under the pins. The wider handle, the more you need to install pins. The author decided to set 5 pins. We have places and drill holes. If the diameter of the holes is large, first use the drill of a small diameter. If steel is hardened, it may be needed to drill with treatment attack. It is easier to drill steel if you lubricate the drill.

Pitch fifth. We descend the blade
Now the blade can be hardening, for this you need a blacksmith furnace. In principle, you can simply be inflated by the coal with a household hairdryer, the temperature can be obtained more than sufficient. Typically, carbon steel is glowing yellowish, with such a glow, it can be cooled in oil. But all the brands have become different, as well as hardening methods, you need to remember.
When the blade is hardened, the metal should not be taken in a file. After that, they usually make another metal leave, otherwise it will be very fragile.

When the blade cools, we clean it from the oil, usually wash them under flowing waterUsing detergents. Further, the author polished the blade with shallow emery paper to the brilliance.

Step six. Go to the manufacture of the handle
The pen with the author combined, it consists of brass and wooden linings. First, let's start with brass linings, it will take a sheet brass for this, cut out four parts from it for the front and rear handle. The brass is cut perfectly with a grinder. Next, drill in pins for pins, and now you can install them on the handle. This will allow the adjustment of the handle form. The pins will need brass, in the end they will become one with overlays. Pins should be of this diameter so that they enter the material with a little effort. After installing the pins, they need to be split.

Next, you can proceed to wooden linings, for this, look for hundreds of suitable thickness. Boards cut off to the desired length and drill holes for pins. The lining themselves are installed on epoxy glue, it is the key to securely fastening. As for the pins, for these purposes the author decided to use the pins of steel, suitable for such purposes ordinary nails. You don't need to cut these pins, as we have everything on glue. Tighten the lining of the clamps and give the glue to completely dry.

Step seventh. Grinding knob
When the glue dries, the handle can be processed. To do this, first cut the pins, it can be made with a hacksaw or file. Next, we go to the grinding machine and the plane grinding, everything should be on the same level. You can also span a handle and contour in some way.

Now we will have those places where we could not bring to the grinding. To process them, the author uses Bormashin. Excellent with such a task, the nozzle of sandpaper is coping.

Step eighth. Finish treatment
At the end, we put a polishing nozzle on the bornishin and polish the brass to the golden gloss. Similarly, we go through this nozzle along the contour. If some places are not amenable to polishing, they still need to be finalized by manually very shallow emery paper. Well, further polish on a polishing machine a wooden part or the whole knife if desired. When the handle is ready, apply oil on it. It will protect the tree from moisture, and the brass will not be oxidized.

The final stage will be sharpening blade. The author does it using a Japanese aqueous stone. You will need stones of different graininess, from large to small. To work these stones, they need to be water, so they are cleaned of dirt. The knife can be molded to the state of the blade.
That's all, the masterpiece of art is ready! Our knife is strong, beautiful and very useful. I hope the project you liked. Good luck and creative inspirations!

Instruction

Instruction:
In order to make a knife, you need a steel plate. This role is perfectly suitable for automotive springs steel grade 5160. The main thing is not to use the used material. Decide to take the refrigera - take it. Length of the plate depends on the length of the desired length of the blade for the future knife. A comfortable length is 10 centimeters, but everyone will decide for himself. It is important to remember that the length of the handle must peel at least ¾ of the length of the blade.
Based on this, make calculations. Blade, plus ¾ on the handle - it turns out the length of the plate for the knife and do not forget the "snub on the seam".

In addition, you will need wood bar. The best candidate for this role is Oak. It will be worth buying this part in a joinery store. So you will be confident that the tree does not fall apart in the hand, and will not give unexpected cracks.

You will also need a copper rod with a diameter of up to 0.5 centimeters. He will mount the antisle to the blade. Therefore, the task of its selection is so responsibly.
As for the tools, in order to make a knife, an electric drill will be needed, hacksaws, primitive rack, saw and epoxy resin.

The manufacturing process is not complicated, but painstaking. But you decided to make a knife, so forward. On the plate with a marker draw a knife contour. Draw wider than desired, as the sniff will take its own. Then the electric drill make as many holes as possible on this contour. Do not forget to drill and several holes in the future handle. The width of these holes should not significantly exceed the width of the copper rod, consider this when the drill is selected. With the help of a saw "free" a knife from the plate. This workpiece must be treated with a hacksaw and a file, remove all irregularities and smooth the shape.

Next, screw the knife to the shelving for handle and start slowly blade for the blade. The blade is best to become the best file. This is the main, the longest and most responsible part. Labor over the blade can take a lot of time, but it is impossible to hurry. When the blade is ready, the knife quenching starts. The knife must be brought in fire to a purple color. A sufficiently split metal, should not be attracted with a magnet and this is an indicator for you. After the knife "reached" it needs to be dipped into the oil and keep it in it until the fire is woined and the smoke will not disappear. Then you can cool with water.

After the blade is ready to start a handle. Need to do out wooden bar Two overlays

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