Babe stoves from brick drawings. Baby furnace with their own hands

Without competent organized heating about comfortable accommodation In a private house, you can not be speech. However, it is often necessary to arise the arrangement of heating and in other secondary premises. In such situations, an excellent solution will be compact heating and cooking stoves like "Baby".

A similar unit will be able to heat a small country house, workshop and other rooms with an area of \u200b\u200bup to 25-35 m2. Baby furnace is erected into as soon as possible of available materials. After reading the further recommendations, you will be able to lay out a furnace aggregate without any problems with your own hands.

Preparation for the fill of the foundation

Baby furnace has compact dimensions and relatively modest weight. Due to this requirement for the foundation for the furnace, they are somewhat softened, but it will still have to make some efforts to improve its arrangement.

First stage. Prepare a bitten for a foundation 80 cm wide, 90 cm long and a depth of 45 cm. These are standard values. If you build a stove for individual projectDo not forget to change and dimensional dimensions accordingly.

Thoroughly align the bottom and the walls of the deepening.

It is forbidden to bind the main foundation of the structure with the foundation of the stove. The slightest shirt movements will cause cracks in such a kind of design, which ultimately can even lead to the complete destruction of the building.

Second phase. Cover the bottom of a 10-centimeter sandy pillow. Sand needs to be maximally compacted. For a better seal, we swallow waterfill. Give sand to dry during the day.

Third stage. Make a formwork. In principle, you can do without formwork, but the presence of this item is very desirable. Use ordinary durable to build formwork wooden boards. The top edge of the formwork should coincide with the floor level.

Foundation under the oven.

Take into account the fact that after drying the solution you will need to remove the formwork, while in such a way that neither the foundation nor the floor is damaged.

Reinforcement of the base

The upper limit of the finished foundation will be approximately 70 mm below the floor plane. In view of this height foundation Plate, minus mentioned 7-centimeter gap and 10-centimeter sandy frustration, will be 28 cm. Rely on this value in the process of assembling the reinforcing frame.

If you wish, you can make a single-layer crate of thick rods, however professional builders Recommended to take rods a little smaller diameter and make 2 reinforcing grids.

First step. Place the reinforcing framework. First, in parallel, lay out longitudinal rods at a distance of about 100 mm. As a result, you use 7 80 cm long rods. On top of the longitudinal rods, put perpendicular to them rods with a similar step. It will take 8 70 cm long rods.

The second step. Take the junctions of the rods flexible steel wire. On top of the first crate, put the same second. Shakes of the crates are dragging the wire.

Third step. Take 9 reinforcing rods with a length of 25 cm each. Four such a rods of such a rod at the corners of the grids, the four same rods put along the ribs, and the remaining one rods are located at the central point of the reinforcing layer.

In places of contact of reinforcement with sand, put some stones or other elements to prevent metal contact with the ground.

Fourth step. Drink reinforcing elements into a sandy pillow. It is impossible to make fittings sticking over concrete fill.

Start the fill. Concrete is poured by a uniformly solid horizontal layer in one right.

After the fill, process the material by the vibroinstrument or at least pour the concrete to the reinforcement rod to eliminate the excess air. Such processing will contribute to an increase in the total strength of the foundation.

Leave the bold concrete for a month to dry out and a durability. Throughout the first week, we regularly water the fill with water, otherwise the foundation will give a crack. It is better to put on concrete a dense baggy cloth and pour water directly to it.

Frozen concrete Cover aluminum foil (reflecting the side up) and proceed to laying the stove type "Baby".

Furnace order "Baby"

1-2 row. Put two starting solid rows. Check the evenness of the rows and corners. Starting rows finally lined the base and will perform the function of the support for the further part of the design. Masonry perform with the use of a standard clay solution standard for such works.

3 row. Install the door pissed and lay out the base of the chimney channel.

4 row. Masonry does not differ from the third row.

5 row. Discharge the chimney channel in the center so that two strokes remain on the sides. Cover the door pissed.

6 row. Set the grate over the cavity, the door closed has pissed.

7 row. Put the founding of the flue office. Install the door for the same camera.

8-9 row. The laying is carried out as on the 7th row.

10 row. Cover the coating door. On the same number you need to open a window from the chamber of the furnace to the rear furnace channel.

11 row. Perform mounting hobs. The order does not differ from the previous one.

12 row. Close the channel in which you made a removal in the process of displaying the 10th row. Start laying the walls of the cooking department.

13 row. The masonry repeats the 12th row.

14 row. Open the second horizontal furnace channel. Out in his back of a clear hatch.

15 row. The masonry repeats the 14th row.

16 row. Early the horizontal channel from the 14th row, leaving, while the removal in the opposite side of the place where the output was organized during the 12th row laying. Install the metal tape above the cooking department.

17 row. Cover the horizontal channel by another overlap layer. So you will create a compartment for drying. By the same next, you will block the cooking compartment over previously fixed metal tape.

18 row. Highlight the 3rd horizontal furnace channel. It will be held in the back of the furnace unit. After him, smoke will be directed straight into the discharge pipe. The end of the channel is equipped with a clear hatch.

19 row. The masonry repeats the 18th row.

20 row. Discharge the last horizontal furnace channel with an output to the smoke tube.

21 row. Put the transition to the chimney and proceed to the formation of the chimney design. Laying directly stoves on this row ends.

22 row and higher. Lay out the chimney.

At the end, you will stay to the end with a smoke-free design and, if you wish to perform finish finish homemade stove. You can leave it and without finishing - brick and so has quite aesthetic appearance.

The stove of the "Baby" belongs to the category of typical channel stoves. In the presence of such desire, it can be modified and turning into a cap, slightly increasing the coefficient useful action aggregate.

In some situations, "Baby" are used for heating a separate house room, performing the function of a kind of fireplace. For example, such an aggregate will look good in a large living room. Otherwise, focus on your own preferences.

Good job!

Video - Baby furnace with your own hands

Without competently organized heating of comfortable accommodation in a private house, you can not be speech. However, it is often necessary to arise the arrangement of heating and in other secondary premises. In such situations, an excellent solution will be compact heating and vary china stoves like "Baby".

A similar unit will be able to heat a small country house, workshop and other rooms with an area of \u200b\u200bup to 25-35 m2. The babber furnace is erected as soon as possible from available materials. After reading the further recommendations, you will be able to lay out a furnace aggregate without any problems with your own hands.

First stage. Prepare a bitten for a foundation 80 cm wide, 90 cm long and a depth of 45 cm. These are standard values. If you build a stove according to an individual project, do not forget to change and dimensional dimensions accordingly.

Thoroughly align the bottom and the walls of the deepening.

It is forbidden to bind the main foundation of the structure with the foundation of the stove. The slightest shirt movements will cause cracks in such a kind of design, which ultimately can even lead to the complete destruction of the building.

Second phase. Cover the bottom of a 10-centimeter sandy pillow. Sand needs to be maximally compacted. For a better seal, we swallow waterfill. Give sand to dry during the day.

Third stage. Make a formwork. In principle, you can do without formwork, but the presence of this item is very desirable. For assembling formwork, use ordinary durable wooden boards. The top edge of the formwork should coincide with the floor level.

Foundation under the oven.

Take into account the fact that after drying the solution you will need to remove the formwork, while in such a way that neither the foundation nor the floor is damaged.

Reinforcement of the base

The upper limit of the finished foundation will be approximately 70 mm below the floor plane. In view of this, the height of the foundation plate, minus the mentioned 7-centimeter gap and a 10-centimeter sandy backfill, will be 28 cm. Rely on this value in the process of assembling the reinforcing frame.

If you wish, you can make a single-layer crate of thick rods, but professional builders recommend taking a little smaller diameter and do 2 reinforcing grids.

The second step. Take the junctions of the rods flexible steel wire. On top of the first crate, put the same second. Shakes of the crates are dragging the wire.

In places of contact of reinforcement with sand, put some stones or other elements to prevent metal contact with the ground.

Fourth step. Drink reinforcing elements into a sandy pillow. It is impossible to make fittings sticking over concrete fill.

Start the fill. Concrete is poured by a uniformly solid horizontal layer in one right.

After the fill, process the material of the vibroinstructor M or at least pour the concrete to the reinforcement rod to eliminate the excess air. Such processing will contribute to an increase in the total strength of the foundation.

A frozen concrete Cover the aluminum foil (reflective side up) and proceed to laying the stove type "Baby".

Furnace order "Baby"

3 row. Install the door pissed and lay out the base of the chimney channel.

4 row. Masonry does not differ from the third row.

5 row. Discharge the chimney channel in the center so that two strokes remain on the sides. Cover the door pissed.

6 row. Set the grate over the cavity, the door closed has pissed.

7 row. Put the founding of the flue office. Install the door for the same camera.

8-9 row. The laying is carried out as on the 7th row.

10 row. Cover the coating door. On the same number you need to open a window from the chamber of the furnace to the rear furnace channel.

11 row. Perform the installation of the cooking panel. The order does not differ from the previous one.

12 row. Close the channel in which you made a removal in the process of displaying the 10th row. Start laying the walls of the cooking department.

13 row. The masonry repeats the 12th row.

14 row. Open the second horizontal furnace channel. Out in his back of a clear hatch.

15 row. The masonry repeats the 14th row.

17 row. Cover the horizontal channel by another overlap layer. So you will create a compartment for drying. By the same next, you will block the cooking compartment over previously fixed metal tape.

19 row. The masonry repeats the 18th row.

20 row. Discharge the last horizontal furnace channel with an output to the smoke tube.

21 row. Put the transition to the chimney and proceed to the formation of the chimney design. Laying directly stoves on this row ends.

22 row and higher. Lay out the chimney.

At the end, you will remain equipped to the end with a chimney design and, if you wish, perform the finishing finish of the homemade stove. You can leave it and without finishing - brick and so has a quite aesthetic appearance.

The stove of the "Baby" belongs to the category of typical channel stoves. In the presence of such a desire, it can be modified and turning into a cap oven, slightly increasing the efficiency of the aggregate.

Good job!

Video - Baby furnace with your own hands

Cooking "Swede" and "Swedie-Baby"

Swedish cooking furnace

After listening to the wishes of the hostess at home and attaching the volume of the room, where it was assumed to install the oven, I proposed a choice of two options for the Swede: with a cap or "trust". I showed a photo of my stoves, and stopped the choice for the Swedish with the cap.

The foundation under the oven was poured the same autumn, and in the spring of the purchase of basic materials and equipment, in early May. I purchased the fuel, ash and clean doors, a double-circuit boiler plate, two valves, three grate and brick brand "Kemma" 1. I always advise your customers to use for masonry oven ceramic brick It is this brand, since this is a guarantee of the durability of any properly folded furnace.

By the time I delivered all the materials on the workstation, the builders team had already mounted on the wall of the house bordering the oven, the heat insulating screen. This screen is a lung mounted on the wall frame design From standard metal profiles (They are usually used for mounting plasterboard panels). The space between them is filled with Mi-unlockable plates, and steel galvanized sheets are attached over the plates. The task of the screen is simple - steel sheet reflects infrared radiation, and mineral wool plate It works as a heat insulator, protecting the wall of the house from direct heating.

In the course of the implementation of the preparatory work in the design of the furnace, I had to make some changes. The fact is that the former builders who have started to build a house have not arranged produced in the foundation, which is why under the floor was constantly wet and raw. Therefore, we decided to use natural cravings in flue channels Furnaces for ventilation underground. In itself, this is nonsense, since the use of chimney for ventilation reduces temperature flue gases And leads to overspending of firewood, but in our case it is impossible to correct the error of the builders in a different way.

To organize forced ventilation The underground, during the fill of the foundation under the furnace, it was necessary to lay a plastic (PVC) pipe, which plays the role of the ventilation channel for the underground. On the orders it can be seen that in the ranks of the 1st of the 5th in the masonry made a special broadening, where and this plastic trumpet From the underground, and in the 2nd row installed a valve, which allows you to control the traction and the intensity of ventilation. During the test furnace, I checked the presence of thrust in the ventilation channel - everything turned out as planned.

Put the furnace in accordance with the coaches. There are no special tricks in certain rows. After mounting the hob above it, we will be erected open from two sides by the cooking chamber. Unlike the stoves-Swedets that I struggled before, here the overlap over the cooking chamber decided to make in the form of an arched arch, without supporting corners or any other metal.

The procedure for the construction of the arch is usual - first lay out all the side walls (up to the level of the 18th row), and then we set the front edge of which the front edge of which should be beyond the front wall of about 2 cm. Kneully fixed on the stacks of bricks and set In terms of the level, laying under its edges of the clina.

On the right and on the left cut under the desired angle of the edge adjacent to the arched bricks. When laying out the arch between the bricks installed on the edge, we lay the splinting pieces of bricks so that the gaps would be the same everywhere, and then fill the seams with the solution. To do this, it is better to use a special heat-resistant mixture with the addition of cement, then the vault will be more durable and resistant.

Above, Nad. arched arch Cooking chamber, lay out the cap with clean doors. True, in this furnace height had to be done on a couple of rows less than usual. Lift the cap above did not allow beach beams Ceiling overlap. The pipe also had to shift slightly and deploy 90 ° to bypass overlapping beams, observing all the rules and fire protection requirements. As it should be, I raised the pipe above the skate, and from above, to protect against rain and snow, laid out the "house". The pipe with the "house" turned out to be original and unusual, which was very liked by the most hostess, and all its neighbors. Tatiana even came up with the name for this "house" on the pipe - "Teremok".

After drying, the test firing was successful, without comments.

Furnace coach Swede

Furnace "Swedie-Baby"

Swedes can be called the most than most popular furnaces. This is primarily due to their multifunction. In the structure of the Swedish, a cast iron plate is provided on which it is possible to cook food, and through a set of chimneys, permeating the array of the furnace, it is evenly warming up during the furnace period, and then slowly gives the accumulated warmth room.

The stove is usually located in a cooking chamber - open or closing doors. The door closed after the protestopa contribute to the best maintaining heat, which allows tomorrow food in the cooking chamber. Often, the plate is complemented by an oven, in which you can burn pies, bake meat, fish or vegetables. Swede can be used for drying and mushrooms, and apples, and herbs.

Before ordinary plate with a Swedish shield - how heating stove - It has a significant advantage. With the same occupied area, the convective zone is more developed, smokers are located not only at the base of the furnace and on the side, but also above the cooking chamber. Therefore, the efficiency and heat transfer from it is much higher.

The bust of the Swedow can be placed in any part of the heated room, but the most convenient place for it is in the opening of the walls or partitions between the room and the kitchen. The main thing is that the smoke tube leaves the roof closer to the skate. It will improve the craving in the furnace and facilitates the waterproofing device around the pipe.

You can turn the buffet with firewood, peat and coal - depending on the design of the fuel. But translate this furnace on gas fuel Not recommended. Even with small malfunctions of the equipment, the gas can accumulate in smoke revolutions and caps and during the next furnace - explode. In practice, such cases were.

Figure 1. General form

An example of a small buffet can serve as an oven (Fig. 1) in terms of 89x63.5 cm and height - 189 cm. The convective zone of this furnace is serial channel smokers (chimneys). Their compact location creates the conditions for uniform warming up the entire furnace array. Horizontal chimneys are located below, at the very base of the furnace, and above the cooking chamber, at the very top of the furnace. After two hours of firebox (the generally accepted fireproof mode of heating and cooking furnaces), the entire outer surface of the furnace is heated. Despite the small sizes, the furnace is heating the room with an area of \u200b\u200b25 m2.

The furnace can be treated in summer and winter modeswhich are adjustable with valves 1 and 2 (Fig. 2). With summer mode, both smoke valves are opened. When switching to winter mode The lifting of the summer firebox 2 needs to be closed, leaving only the main valve 1. Hot flue gases, replacing its direction, will go to the lower smoke circuits 8. The lower array of it will move around the perimeter counterclockwise, the lower array will be heated, then it will go into the lifting channel (well) 13. Warming up the well, flue gases will go to the upper smoke circuits 9. The movement around the perimeter of the furnace clockwise, they warm its upper array and only after that will go to the smoke pipe.

The furnace is equipped with a single-mounted cast iron stove. The ovens in the design of the furnace is not provided. In fig. 1 is shown general form Swedes, and in fig. 2 - cross sections of the furnace and its decents.

The first two rows of the stove are put with small protrusions. This makes the appearance more interesting. The 1st row is laying off with a solid, and the lower chimneys begin on the 2nd, which overlap with two rows of bricks (on the 4th and 5th row). In the ranks of the 6th and 7th form, it was impended, above which - on the 8th row - install a grate grid.

Starting from the 7th row, part of the masonry is carried out chamoten brick. The furnace in the oven has a height of 40 cm. This is enough to maintain normal burning of firewood. For the use of coal and peat, this furnace is not adapted.

Above the plate installed on the 13th row, the cooking chamber begins. Its height - 42 cm: It is enough to put and remove with a saucepan or even a bucket with water without difficulties. For mounting the plates in the bricks, on which it lies, drink a quarter. There are temperature gaps between the edge of the slab and brick.

In the overlapping of the cooking chamber (on the 21st row), the valve is installed for its ventilation. The same row is provided for the summer stroke. Horizontal chimneys that promote the top of the furnace are located above the overlap of the cooking chamber. The main furnace valve is located on the 27th row.
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Heating hobs last century

Content:

For a garden warmed house, a small compact economical furnace "Baby" is comfortable with a height of no more than 2.2 m. If desired, the furnace can be made higher by adding several rows between the 18th and 19th. In the furnace, cooking and two drying chambers. Due to the small size and mixed (plastle and rib), the masonry requires only 250 bricks (to the pipe).

The design of the furnace is simple, and with small skills to build it easy, but a lot of curious brick tester is required.

The furnace is put on a solid foundation, which should be 5-10 cm more than its size. In the kitty, dumped to solid soil, the brick battle is poured, the brickstone is poured with cement in proportion 1: 5 when grade cement M-400. The foundation should not reach the floor level by 1-2 rows.

Initially, the brick is chosen in each row dry, then put on the grinding solution. Rows are considered to be on the right side, from the side of the valves. The width of the gas ducts along the walls is not less than 7.2 cm. It should be borne in mind that the summer gas is always hot in the rear wall. Above its valves, the gas duct is made square, for which the bottom of the 24th row is shy (see the b-b section).

Heating furnace "Malyutka-5"

Oven under any solid fuel. The furnace can be rearranged on the side wall, where the valve and cleaning door are located. The furnace can be folded below or higher. For this, after the 17th row, you need to drop or add from one to eight rows of masonry. The furnace is fetched (i.e., placed on the edge) refractory brick. If you are not dried by coal, then you can keep the whole masonry from the red brick. If you trammed firewood, then the grate grid needs to be smaller, it is laid out and pissed.

On the furnace you need:

brick red - 370 pieces,

refractory brick - 16-21 pieces,

cutting with a hole 12x21 cm - one,

ground grade 30 cm long - 10 pieces.

The simplest furnace suitable for summer cuisine, on the principle of which you can fold whole line Similar. The oven without pushed. For air access in the door there are holes. The gas from the furnace go straight into the housing pipe 1, which can be done any height, gradually narrowing it. The furnace can be connected to the gas in brick wall or to a separate pipe. The furnace can be put straight on the sturdy floor. In fire for fire purposes, it is necessary to replace the cross-cutting holes-2, of which will go out warm airsecreted by a pyro furnace. The stove is pushed into a brick.

On the furnace you need:

brick red - 240 pieces,

the door of the furnace with the holes 21x25 cm - one,

the catch of 12x21 cm or 13x13 cm is one.

Heating and cooking oven without doors and flue hole

Suitable oven for summer kitchen, samovar tila, because Fuel is loaded through big hole In the stove-1, in which the mugs can be replaced with the lid from the old pan. Turn such a furnace can only be firewood. The furnace has a confusion opening without door-2. For best burning In the furnace there are trees. From the whole brick-3, which are installed on the fourth row. Fire gas gases go through a translated wall-4, lowered down, heating the walls of the furnace, and rise up into the pipeline. There is a soy-5 cleaning window, which is laid by brick on the edge. The homemade stove iron-6 ladder can be installed where it is convenient to the owners. For the valve at the base of the 27th row, a slit of a depth of 0.3-0.5 cm is supplied. The height of the slot is made on the thickness of the iron gate so that the gap is not more than 0.2 cm above the gap and the valve moved freely. The stove is laid on the 11th row. The furnace heats up to the floor and has a minimum of furnace instruments.

On the furnace you need:

brick red - 260 pieces,

cast iron plate 41x71 cm - one,

latch.

Heating and cooking bacter

Stove under stone coal. Fire gas gases go through a translated wall-1. Finding down, they heat the water in the tank-2. If you need not so much hot water, then the tank can be installed to another place-3, here the water will warm up longer, but it will be saved longer than hot. Gases, bypassing the tank, heating to the bottom, go to the riser-pipe. For convenience and security, the tank is better to install, as shown in Fig. 42.6 (3). The stove and iron corner are laid on the 11th row. In the furnace you can install the oven (Fig. 42.6).

On the furnace you need:

brick red - 220 pieces,

brick refractory - 20 pieces,

the door is 25x21 cm - one,

cleaning door 14x14 cm - one,

the door for pushed 14x14 cm - one,

cast iron plate 41x71 cm - one,

sparkling gearbox 25 cm long, 12x21 cm valve is one, supro-layer tank 15x37x28 cm - one, oven homemade 30x37x27 cm.

Heating and cooking stove with shield

Firecase under stone coal. For heating firewood, the masonry is conducted from red brick, in this case the door falls on one row below, and two rows of masonry are placed above it. If the oven is heated below, it is necessary to lay a hole with a piece of iron in the ninth row of the cabinet.

The valve can be installed one, but then you need to close all the doors after the prock.

On the tenth row put the plate and corner. If there is no corner, the slab is pushed into a brick.

For better heated Partitions are more convenient to install flush with a shield-1, or a shield should be 25 cm.

On the furnace you need:

red brick - 400 pieces,

brick refractory - 17 pieces,

plate 41x71 cm - one,

machine door 21x25 cm - one,

the door is podded 14x14 cm - one,

cleaning door 14x14 cm - four,

a valve 12x21 cm - two.

About quality brick oven All owners dream country houses. But the fact is that the design of most models is quite complicated, and to build them, without having skills in the bary, extremely difficult. But there are options (for example, a baby-baby), which require a minimum of time and for the manufacture of which specialized knowledge and skills do not need. So, today we will tell how to build a babbit baby with their own hands.

Constructive features

The area of \u200b\u200bthe future design is 40 cm. In the manufacture of the brick will be used, the laying will be made by plafhmy or "on the edge". Despite their small dimensions, the babber stove will effectively hold and give thermal energy. What is characteristic, the foundation in this case can not be built at all, since the weight of the device will be insignificant. We need only the floor made of thick boards, reliably fixed by lags.

Note! The design described in the article is able to easily replace the traditional burzhuyk, but its functionality will be several times higher.

Baby may have another cooking function (if available pig-iron furnace) or heating (there must be a chimney tube). Moreover, such a furnace can be operated as a fireplace, since it also has a smoke tooth.

Also, the attention should be paid to the high speed of the masonry: for example, if you start construction works In the morning, in the evening, most likely, it is already waiting for testing of trial. At first, it is recommended to use paper and chips for the extracts, because due to the strong temperature difference on freshly stuck masonry solution Cracks may form, which, in turn, can lead not only to smoke, but also to additional suction of the air. In short, to load ordinary lamps into the oven, it is necessary to wait at the beginning until the solution dry out (often it takes no more than seven days, although much depends on the characteristics of the climate and humidity in the room).

The main advantages of construction

Small dimensions (total area - 40 cm.kv.), due to which the design and gained tremendous popularity among the owners of country houses.
The possibility of using exceptionally red bricks in the process, if in the future, conventional firewood will be used as fuel (neither silicate, nor ordinary brick, because it is susceptible to high temperatures).
In the case of the most primitive design of the furnace with the work, you can cope with the personnel, with the help of submitted means. Heating channels are not provided here, since their function will be performed by the fuel cap. Moreover, the baby can be installed in the simpleness, which will significantly save free space.
Thanks to the economy of the furnace, you will not need to harm the large volumes of firewood for the winter.
There is no need for the foundation, because the babber stove weighs a little with their own hands.
However, the device is able to heat the room to 25-35 m.kv. In autumn or spring, when the temperature is plus, it is necessary to heat only once a day, in the winter - twice.

Video - Factory Metal Oven-Baby (Feringer)

About safe design

In order to check the corners of the design when working, use the ass performed using nails bought to the ceiling. So you can easily determine how to locate the pipe. After that, proceed to creating the opening in the ceiling. It is important that at the same time the fire cutting parameter is taken into account. If you follow this security parameter, the distance between chimneys and wooden components will be at least 250 millimeters. IN otherwise - If for some reason it is impossible to do it - create a septum using several layers of burlap (thickness should be 10-20 millimeters). Pre-impregnate the burlap with a clay-based solution. Metal sheets on top of the material.

Note! Never, under no circumstances ignore the requirements of the fire supply! Before the first launch of the furnace, make sure that its work will not lead to unauthorized ignition. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to trust the work of experienced specialists.

In order to provide additional safety at the bottom, before the flopping department, firmly fix the steel sheet. According to many years of experience The stove-baby can heat the temperature in a room in 30 cubic meters up to 20 degrees (if the temperature outside will be about minus twenty), having spent only 11-12 kilograms of dry wood. Of course, the fact that the ceilings in this building are double, as well as window Rama.And the walls are insulated properly. Nevertheless, the results and the truth are impressive and they only apply to the first pointing. In the future, only 5 kilograms of the same fuel will be required to achieve a similar result.

Video - Protop Furnace-Baby

Now - directly to the manufacture!

Construction Furnace-Baby: Step-by-Step Guide

The procedure itself consists of two important stages - preparation and, actually construction. You will get acquainted with each of the stages in more detail.

The first stage. Preparatory activities\u003e

Initially, all materials should be prepared to be used in construction. In fact, they are not so much as it may seem at first glance.

Step one. Consumables

All that is necessary for the construction of the baby stove is indicated in the table below.

Table number 1. Materials

№	*Name*	*number*
	Brick red	60 units
	Savka.	1 unit
	Refractory brick	37 units
	Confortor plate made of cast iron	1 unit
	Solution from clay	20 liters
	Door for firebox	1 unit
	Door for confused	1 unit
	Colonnik.	1 unit

Step second. Necessary equipment

Table number 2. Equipment

*Tool*	*Purpose (for what will be used)*
Trowel	With it, it will be equal to the working solution. In addition, the seams will be cracked through the Kelma.
Iron meter (you can use roulette)	Here everything is simple - the tool is necessary for measurements.
Hammer-Kirk	This tool is required to screen and cut bricks when working.
Rule (line of wood with parallel planes, length - 150 centimeters, cross section - 6x1,5 centimeters)	It is required to monitor rectinity and horizontal brick masonry (On the tool you need to put a construction level).
Level	With it, as we just told, the laying is checked.
Plumbing (lace with cargo)	Controls vertical angles and plane of brickwork

Now that everything you need is already ready, you can begin to build a babber furnace with your own hands.

How to make the oven on the spent oil

Earlier we talked about how to independently make a furnace working on spent machine oil, in addition to this article we advise you to get acquainted with this information.

Stage second. Order

First to prepare a little working surface. Algorithm necessary actions Located below.

Step 1. Where you plan to build a baby, put insulating material sizes of 53x78 centimeters (such material can be, for example, PET film, pergamine or rubberoid).

Step 2. On top of the prepared bedding, a sand "pillow" with a thickness of 10 millimeters is covered. The sand is pretty aligned.

Step 3. On top of the sand is laid out the first brick series (dry, that is, without bonding), which includes 12 units. This series is aligned with the level in order to ensure maximum horizontality.

Step 4. On top of the lined with bricks, a thin layer is applied on the basis of clay, and then the door is put for pissed. It is important to wind up this door in advance with a moisturized asbestokarton (or, as an option, asbestos cord). Then the door is attached and the layout of the next row begins.

Step 5. The subsequent row is laid out similarly to the first, the red brick is still used.

Step 6. But the third row is laid out by fireproof bricks. The grate grille is stacked on top of this row. It is important that this grace is located directly above the confusion at the end of the formation of a series.

Step 7. When laying a fourth row, bricks are already "on the edge". Inside the chimney pipe is installed a special stand, which will continue to serve us as internal partition. As for the rear wall of the structure, it is placed (without the use of the solution), but so that each brick from the previously posted series number 4 slightly opposed the outside.

Step 8. Next, the door is installed for the coating compartment. Before starting the installation, it should be turned on a pair of three turns of the cord from asbestos, but at the same time, which is very important, it is required that it can still be discovered both from below and from above. The door is fastened with wire and fixed (only for a while) a pair of bricks - one brick is behind it, the second on it, and the door itself is installed on top.

Step 9. After that, the brick series No. 5 is laid out. Here the products are put on the plafhmy, as if around the perimeter of the past row.

Step 10. The babber of the baby continues to be built with their own hands, now it should be proceeded to row number 7. Here bricks also lie down the plafhmy (it should be started with 3/4 in order to tie with the previous one). It is also important that the rear part is a pair of bricks that are laid by the edge.

Step 11. The eighth row will close the flue door (it ends with a pair of bricks laid from above). For its masonry, only beveled brick is used, while it is important that it hung over the heat chamber. This is explained by the fact that the flame will in this case will shift closer to the center of the burner (it is located on the hob) during the operation of the baby as a fireplace, that is, with an open door.

Step 12. The ninth row should be shifted a few back to support the door in open position. Before starting the laying of bricks, a moistened asbestos cord is placed on the surface - in principle, it will ensure the tightness of the junctions between the surfaces and the cast-iron stove. It is important that the stove does not fit directly on the clay due to different indicators of thermal expansion in these materials (this is the cast iron and clay).

Step 13. When laying the tenth row, the construction of a chimney pipe begins, which should over time as to expand towards the rear. At the same time, the design of the baby stove is also taken into account - the fact is that it will not allow the installation of an ardent tube made of bricks because of this very expansion. During its creation, the center of gravity of the entire furnace as a whole will be shifted. For this reason, the oven pipe is mounted or, as an option, a molded product made of light metal.

Step 15. After that, the chimney is placed in the formed fourth - it is mandatory to connect it with a light iron tube. And if the pipe is shifted by several to the side, then you need to take overlap, made in the form of three rows of bricks.

Step 16. Relicious bricks are extracted, the lower part of the chimney pipe is cleaned of moisture and dirt, which penetrated inside during the installation work.

Step 17. After that, the eyes are performed by a practically finished baby stove.

Note! Specialists advise you to add to the mixture to be used for whitewashing, blue and milk. The fact is that otherwise the design surface will over time.

Step 18. In the end, the lower part of the heating device is finished through the attachment of the plinth. Moreover, this simple step will allow you to prevent sand rash from under the case.

Video - Make the oven-baby for 9 thousand rubles

As a conclusion. About basic functions

Baby furnace with their own hands can perform not only decorative function - this design It is quite suitable for more classical purposes. And the most vivid proof is the fact that last years The popularity of this kind of oven grew several times, and it is increasingly used on country areas. But why exactly baby? We will try to figure it out.

Often country houses Small, and therefore heating device They should also be small. Despite its ease and small-sized, the baby completely copes with the heating of the premises, and at a high level.
As a rule, people live in dachas long, but sometimes they are there quite a long time. Of course, they will need food. I don't eat raw foods for many centuries, therefore, a brass lock will be required for cooking and cooking plate. And all this is provided in the design of the baby stove.
Finally, the third reason is such a significant popularity of the design - it is its economy. We all know how difficult it is to get large quantity Fire around cottage plot. Often, only trimming trees, as well as various construction Materialswhich can be burned. For this reason special attention Fuel economy is paid. A small baby is not too demanding to the volume of firewood.

On this, everything, now you know how the babber stove is constructed with your own hands. Actually, all, good luck in work and, of course, warm winters!