Chimney brick do it yourself. Laying stoves with your own hands from the foundation to the chimney

Despite the modern abundance of heating and kitchen equipment, very many owners do not imagine a private house Without a furnace - and it is absolutely correct. Even if it is planned to create an autonomous heating system, the furnace will also be alike. For example, in order to save in the spring or autumn period, when the full heating is no longer needed, but also you do not want to breed in the house. Protoping the stove once a day or two days, in the premises you can maintain the optimal balance of adhesion and heat.

Folding the furnace with your own hands a step-by-step instruction of which has intricate configurations - for the beginner will be quite difficult. Therefore, if there is no experience in the bary, it is better to choose affordable option Spitches in which it will simply figure out.

When choosing a model, it is necessary to take into account not only the simplicity of the scheme, but also heat transfer and the functionality of the furnace, since there are furnaces in which not all functions are provided. The heat transfer is chosen depending on the area, which should heat the heating structure.

There are many furnace furnaces because experienced PechsWhen working on one of them, their adjustments contribute to its design, and due to this, new and new options for the heating device appear. And to stay on one of the types of furnaces, you need to know which they are on functionality.

Prices for chammatory brick for masonry furnaces

chamotte brick

Types of brick stoves

There are t.the rex basic species are heating and cooking, cooking and simply heating without additional embedded elements.

  • The heating and cooking furnace can have not only a cooking plate, but the oven and a water heating tank, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure can heat one or two rooms of a specific area.

Such furnaces are often embedded in the wall, turning the hob and the furnace in the direction of the kitchen, and the rear wall - in the living room. Thus, the furnace performs till function - it works as a partition, it prepares food on it, and it gives dry heat into the bedroom or living room.

  • Operate only for heating, and most often have a compact size. This furnace is installed in order to maintain the balance of VL Agi and heat in the house in the autumn or in the spring, when it is too early to turn on autonomous heating or not yet included central.

This furnace is well installed, for example, in the country, in the event that there is a device where you can cook food. If the power supply in the country village is often disconnected, it is better to choose a building with a hob.

  • The cooking version of the furnace can serve for heating, if you need to heat a small area. The device is perfect for dacha house Or for a small structure for permanent residence.

Having such a furnace and firewood, you can not worry about the fact that the house will be cold and raw, and the family will remain without dinner or hot tea when the electricity or gas is disconnected.

It should be noted that any of the types of furnace can be compact or massive. The choice of the size of the furnace structure depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house or room, as well as the place that is assigned to build.

Choosing a place to install the furnace

Choosing a place for the construction of the furnace, you need to foresee the nuances that are important not only to create comfortable conditions Operation, but also for reasons of fire safety. Especially important to think about location Furnaces in the already built house, as the chimney pipe should not stumble upon it on the bays of the attic overlap or on the rafting legs of the roof.

The stove is installed at the inner bearing wall, in the middle of the room or embed it into the wall located inside the house.

  • It is not recommended to build a furnace near the outer wall, as it will quickly get out, and the efficiency of its use will significantly decrease.
  • In the middle of the big room, the furnace is set in the event that it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. Moreover, with a beautiful decorative trim, it will decorate the house and can become one of the elements to the interior that will emphasize a certain style.
  • Embedding the oven to the partition between the rooms, it is necessary to provide for its insulation from the combustible wall materials using heat-resistant sheets of asbestos or special drywall.
  • The place allocated for the furnace should be greater than its base at 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction, since the foundation perimeter always slightly exceeds the size of the furnace.
  • In order to easily determine the sizes, you need to choose the model to which the order scheme is attached.

When the model is selected and the installation location defines, you can proceed to the acquisition of materials and prepare all the necessary tools. The number and assortment of materials for each of the models is selected individually, but the tools used during the masonry are always the same.

Working Tools

For the construction process, the following devices and tools will be needed:

A) Kirk is used to dry and split the brick.

B) The oven hammer has the same functions as Kirk, but, in addition, it is convenient for them to remove the dried mortar.

C) The rule is used to align concrete on the surface of the foundation. It is often made independently of the perfectly smooth outdoor board.

D) Wooden blade is used for rubbing and stirring of the clay solution.

E) level - required toolSince it will help withstand the evenness of the ranks, both in the horizontal and vertical direction.

E) Bread from the urine is used to remove internal surfaces Sand furnaces and hardened mortar.

G) Pliers are used to bite and fold steel wire when installing and fixing cast-iron elements of the structure.

H) The chimney lead is used for marking when finishing the furnace with tiles.

And) Stukolz - cut pipe used for fitting tiles.

K) Chettail rod for marking.

L) The rashpil is used to wipe the lumps and removing the influx on the finished masonry.

M) The building angle is necessary to remove internal and external angles by 90 degrees.

H) The plumb is used to check the vertical walls.

O) Rubber hammer is used to run into a row of bricks.

P) Chisel is needed to parse old masonry and brick splitting.

P) Trusks or Kelma are used to remove the surplus of the solution and impose it into the rows of bricks during masonry.

C) the extending will be needed if the oven is not facing finishing material, and the seams between the rows will neatly decorate.

In addition, two tanks for mortar and water will be needed, as well as sieve for sand, if the solution is made independently.

The masonry of the upper rows will be easier if there is a "goats"

For the convenience of working, it is necessary to have a frame that is different called "goats". It is convenient to stand on them, conducting a masonry at an altitude, especially since the work platform size provides for a place to install a container with a solution.

Forehead Foundation

  • The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with the overall basis for the entire structure, but they should not be interconnected, since during deformation or shrinkage, one of them can damage the other.
  • If the furnace will be built in the already built on a ribbon or foundation Foundation A house having a wooden floor, then you have to cover the coating and raise the basis for the furnace from the soil.
  • If the compact model of the furnace is selected, and under the house it works slab foundation, the heating structure can be erected directly on it by making a waterproofing gasket.

If the foundation sune-Taki will have to be equipped with "from scratch", it must be remembered that it should have the same shape as the founding of the furnace, but to act beyond its limits by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each of the parties.

  • On wooden the floor is placed The outline of the foundation is cut on the markup part of the board coating.
  • Further, in the soil the underground rotates the damned size, a depth of 450 ÷ 500 mm.
  • The ground at the bottom of the pit is good tamples, and the sandy befelling is made, which is wetted with water and also tamper to thickness in 80 ÷ 100 mm.

Potted under the chimney foundation with a sandy-gravel "pillow"

  • After that, around the perimeter of the pit it is possible to lay a runneroid, which will perform the function of waterproofing and formwork, if it is temporarily strengthened by boards or bricks. After froze concrete solution Formwork with foundation take off.

Instead of runneroid, you can use formwork from boards, closed from the inside with a polyethylene web.

Immediately it should be noted that it is better if the concrete base under the furnace will rise above the floor at 70 ÷ 100 mm. In this way, you can save a brick and simplify the docking of the floor surface and the side walls of the foundation.

  • From above sand is covered with a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness and is also well compacted.
  • The next step on the bottom of the recovery is a reinforcement grid made of metal wire or finished grid. The elements of the lattice between themselves are connected by a twist from the wire.

Foundation reinforcement - option

  • The first layer of solution is poured into the prepared kittle. It may consist of rubble, sand and cement - 1: 2: 1 or gravel and cement 3: 1. This layer should occupy approximately ⅓ the filled space.
  • After filling the first layer, immediately knead and poured the second, consisting of sand and cement in proportions 3: 1.

The second layer is poured into such a height so that 50 mm remains to the top, which will be required for the upper aligning foundation SH OA.

If necessary, for the upper layer of concrete, the formwork can be expanded, and then on top of the flooded solution to lay reinforcement gridhaving cells at 70 ÷ 80 mm.

  • Then the last is filled upper layer The solution is aligned with the rule.

The foundation is left to ripen concrete by 27 ÷ 30 days. It is advisable to make it daily with water and close with a plastic film, it will help make concrete more monolithic and durable.

On the finished foundation, after removal of the formwork, two or three layers of rubberoid, which will protect the brick masonry of the furnace from the capillary moisture coming from the soil or from the underground.

After that, you can move to the main work - masonry furnace.

Several recommendations for masonry work

  • Before starting the brick laying on the solution, the entire structure rises from the brick dry, but each of the rows should be laid out strictly in accordance with the order scheme.

Pre-masonry Drying experienced cooks advise to spend all the masters who are first taken for the construction of the furnace. This event is necessary in order to understand the location of all internal channels and do not make rude mistakes when fitting bricks in each of the series.

To carry out the masonry you need to stock yourself wooden railswhich will determine the seam thickness between bricks. Usually their thickness is 5-7 mm. The same rail will be used in the main masonry, carried out with the solution. Such a "calibration" of the seam thickness is especially necessary if the masonry is done "under the extection", and must be flawless.

This process of PR is not inhaling, thoughtfully, as it is very important to understand how smoke will be discharged from the furnace, and how it will fall into the chimney pipe.

  • Having lifted a dry design before starting the pipe laying, she carefully disassemble. If you simultaneously fit bricks in size, then each row can be folded into a separate stack, putting a row number on the bricks with a marker and a place in it.
  • Performing basic masonry, each of the series also first lays out dry, and then, after thorough fitting of all parts, mounted on the solution.
  • When the main laying is made, two dimensional rails are stacked on the edges of the previous row to withstand the exact seam thickness. The solution is then applied with a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm. The brick is stacked on top of the solution, and it is embarrassed if necessary rubber hammer As long as the brick does not strengthen the measuring rack. The extra protested solution is selected by a trowel.

  • Rakes are pulled out of the masonry after mounting the third ÷ fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
  • Capturing the rails, the seams are neatly filled with a solution and immediately "expand".
  • Conducting the laying on the solution, each of the series is verified using building level On compliance with horizontal and vertical planes.

Compliance with these nuances will help simplify the process of the construction of any furnace, avoid "fatal" errors that can lead to the need to rewar throughout the work.

Heating and cooking furnace with drying chamber of the structure of Yu. Proskurin

As mentioned above, there is a large number of Different stove models. This publication will consider one of the compact and functional optionswhich can be installed in a small house, as it does not take much space, but it is capable of driving a room at 16 ÷ 17 m².

The design of the furnace Y. Proskurin is a two-speed heating and cooking option equipped with a single-mounted stove and a drying chamber designed for drying vegetables and fruits, healing herbs, mushrooms, and the like.

If desired, a box can be installed in a niche of the drying chamber oven Suitable size.

The furnace has dimensions (excluding the height of the chimney pipe) 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. Its heat transfer is 1700 kcal / h. The design provides for two modes of operation - summer and winter, which is very important for fuel economy, and to be able to heat the stove and cook food, do not touch all Design B. summer time.

List of essential materials

In order to build such a heating structure, the following materials will be needed:

Name of materials and elementsQuantity (pcs.)Sizes of elements (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe masonry)281 ÷ 285.-
Chamotte brick refractory brand sh-882 ÷ 85.-
Opening door1 210 × 250.
Doors for cleaning channels2 140 × 140.
Door for confused1 140 × 250.
Summer stroke valve for chimney1 130 × 130.
Flashing1 130 × 130.
Hob1 130 × 130.
Colonnik.1 200 × 300.
Single-mounted cooking panel1 410 × 340.
Steel band1 40 × 260 × 5
1 40 × 350 × 5
1 40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner1 40 × 40 × 635
3 40 × 40 × 510
4 40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron1 380 × 310.
Foremost sheet metal1 500 × 700.

In addition, it will take clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, mergel, and a bladder box, if it is decided, instead of a drying niche to install the oven.

Scheme-delegation of the construction of the furnace design of Y. Proskurin

IllustrationBRIEF DESCRIPTION Valued operation
The first row is laid out with a solid plane with compliance with bricks.
It is very important to put this series perfectly in all respects, since the quality of the masonry of the entire design will depend on it.
In the second row, a pensive (ash) camera and the base of two vertical channels is formed.
On the same row, the doors of the pensive and the cleaner cameras are installed.
On metal doors there are special ears in which steel wire segments are tightened - they will then be mixed in the seams between bricks.
Temporarily, to complete consolidation, the doors are supported by bricks from one or two sides.
The third row continues the formation of a pensive chamber and the lower part of the vertical channels.
At the same time, fastening from two sides of the installed door.
On the fourth row, the doors of the pensive and clearance cameras are completely overlapped.
The total camera of vertical channels is divided into two, so instead of a large hole, two, having a size of the length of the brick, and the width of the Pollipich are formed.
The fifth row is completely laid out with chamoten brick.
Over the ash chamber forms a hole with planting Moz For a grate grid. For this, part of the brick cuts out, from the side that it must be rotated to the hole above the subdivinal chamber.
On the same row is mounted and grate. It is planted by cleanium Or laid freely, without a solution.
There should be a distance of 4-5 mm between it and brick.
On the sixth row, the formation of a flue chamber and vertical channels continues.
In addition, the flipper is installed on the same row, the frame of which, before installation, it is necessary to wind up or set asbestos, which, when heated metal, will give it an opportunity to expand without voltage and damage.
The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the coach, they continue to form the formation of fireboxes and vertical channels.
On the ninth row, the cooler door is overlapped by brick.
Moreover, to remove the load from the ceiling from the door, the side and third of the edge of the bricks are stated on the one hand, and between them is installed with a brick, shy on both sides.
On the tenth row there is a combination of the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel - this is done in order for the hot smoke from the furnace to be sent to this generated hole.
For smoothness of the course of smoke, protruding the angle of solid brick, which protects the second vertical channel, is cut.
On the eleventh row, the masonry goes according to the scheme, except that on the edges of bricks framing the flue chamber, cuts are made, which will form a deepening for mounting a single-mating hob.
Then, on the same row on sections made on bricks, asbestos stripes are stacked, and the plate panel is mounted.
From the formation of a cooking niche is installed steel corner.
12 A row is laid out of red bricks, and in the future all the laying goes out of it.
Two vertical channels are drawn up again, and there is a niche around the hob.
13 row is placed according to the scheme, but in the front of the first vertical channel, a place is formed to install a summer-winter stroke gauge.
After that, a valve is mounted on the clay-sandy solution.
From 14 to 17 a row, the laying is performed according to one principle - the cooking niche and channels are formed.
On the 18th row of steel corners there is a floating niches.
One of them is mounted on the edge of a niche, the second - at a brick distance from the first, and the third pressed to the second back side.
This is done in order to conveniently carry out the laying of the next row.
A cooking niche is completely overlapped in 19, with the exception of the formation of the hole of the steam channel and the place to install the valve.
To do this, the bricks make cutouts in which the valve is mounted.
20 row is laid out according to the scheme.
It continues the formation of two vertical channels and steaming.
Moreover, if you carefully look at, you can see that one of the bricks forming the first vertical channel is shy.
On the 21st row there is a combination of the first vertical channel and steaming with the help of the left-handed space.
In this row, almost all bricks are put only on the walls of the perimeter of the structure.
Only the second vertical channel is protected.
In the same row, the resulting cavity is overlapped with metal stripes, which are stacked by the scheme shown in Figure.
Further, a roofing sheet is laid on steel strips, with which the chimney hole is organized, located in the opposite side of the steaming.
On the 22nd row, the masonry is made on top of the roofing sheet.
The chimney hole is left and the two holes of vertical channels.
In a place where the drying niche will be formed, the segment is stacked, which will protect the brick on the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more neat.
23 row - formed drying camera, and its rear wall is performed from the brick installed on the side.
He burns down the camera from the opening of the chimney channel.
The walls of the drying chamber, chimney and two vertical channels are formed on the 24 row.
25 row - work continues according to the scheme.
The second brick of the rear wall of the chamber is installed in the same way as the first.
On the 26th row there is preparation for the combination of two vertical channels, so internal bricks Both holes are heard at a low angle.
27 A row - masonry combine the first and second channel.
For them, a common worn door is installed.
The rest of the work goes according to the scheme.
On the 28th row there is overlapping the drying chamber with three sections of the corners along the same principle, as the overlap of a cooking niche was made.
Vertical channels are combined into one wide, and the cleft door is fixed by side bricks.
On 29, the drying chamber and vertical channels are completely overlapped.
The opening of the chimney canal is left, which is placed with bricks with cut-out planting grooves for chimney valve.
After laying a row, a frame with a valve is installed on the clay-sandy solution.
On the 30th row, the entire surface of the furnace is completely overlapped.
Only a chimney hole is left, which must be sized in the Pollipich.
31-32 row - the formation of a chimney begins.

This figure shows an oven in the context. The scheme shows all the internal channels for which the heated air will circulate.

Brick ovens, even the smallest, have many advantages Before metal heating devices.

Iron stoves are heated very quickly, but also quickly cooled, not warming air. Brick mini oven long gives heatand keeps a comfortable temperature for several hours.

This heating structure can be made independently without resorting to the help of a professional bubble.

Schemes of brick mini-stoves

Small furnaces occupy a small area, the size of their foundations fluctuate from 50 to 70 centimeters in width and up to 65-100 cm long. Height The heating structure is 1.5 to 2.3 meters. A cooking flooring is embedded in the furnace, a wardrobe, a hot water tank. Hecks also developed instruments intended only for home heating.

Small heating construction

This is the easiest heating structure. We will analyze the model of the following dimensions:

  • width grounds - 51 cm;
  • length bases (depth) - 89 cm;
  • height238 cm.

The mini stove is installed in the middle of the kitchen or at the wall. Optimal heating area - 20-35 meters. Interior partitions are erected around the oven, which allows heating the kitchen, and the adjacent room.

Inside the device There are:

  • coaching chamber;
  • confused;
  • smoke channels leading to chimney.

Machine door mini stove ( cast iron or glass) It is selected depending on the aesthetic preferences of the home owners. The door from the heat-resistant glass, through which the firewood is visible, gives the design with a fireplace. In the middle and top Furnaces are installed two smoke valves. There is one door to clean the channels. To build this model, you will need:

  • 260 pieces Brick ceramic;
  • 130 Shamotnaya pieces brick;
  • cOLOs (40x23 cm);
  • equipment (30x20 cm) and inflowable (20x14 cm) doors;
  • 2 doors for clean holes ( 20x40 cm);
  • metal foremost leaf (50x70 cm);
  • two sheets ruberoid size 60x100 mm;
  • sand and clay (or finished clay and sand mixture for masonry), clay-chamoite mixture.

Reference. The masonry solution increases the volume of the device on the thickness of the seams.

Base and top The mini-furnace is laid out by ceramic brick on the clay and sandy solution. Fire Put from chamotte brick on the clay and chamotte mixture.

On the long side Bases felt three and a half bricks, on the short - 2 standard bricks 25 cm long. In the height of the laying consists of 35 rows.

Little heating and cooking stove

This is a mini-furnace model for heating and cooking - a comfortable and very compact structure. Optimal square of heated room for minus temperatures20—25 square meters .

The device has the following dimensions:

  • lengthbases (depth) - 64 cm;
  • width grounds - 51 cm;
  • height215 cm.

The design is elevated in the kitchen. The device includes:

  • confused;
  • coaching chamber;
  • smoke channels leading to chimney;
  • cooking flooring;
  • niche for a brass cabinet.

Cooking flooring Cast iron has a hole closing the disc and circle. There are also solid flooring on sale. IN niche for the oven Feature a metal oven or a water tank with a crane. If niche leaves free, it serves to dry things. For the construction of the stove need:

  • 222 pieces of ceramic brick;
  • colonse (40x25 cm);
  • door for firebox ( 20x20 cm);
  • door for pushed ( 14x14 cm);
  • warmer flooring (35x38 cm);
  • metal oven or water tank;
  • iron foremost leaf (50x70 cm);
  • two doors for clean holes ( 20x14 cm);
  • two valves;
  • a piece flat slate ;
  • steel corner;
  • clay, sand or ready clay-sand mixture For masonry.

Before proceeding with the masonry, preparatory work is carried out. They include the following steps:

  • choice project;
  • choice and purchase materials;
  • metal purchase details of the stove;
  • preparation tool, the tank for the solution;
  • preparation places To build a stove;
  • building mini furnace.

You will also be interested:

Choosing a project

On the Internet and in textbooks on a chimney there are challenges-drawings of a dozen mini-stoves.

Selection is greatBut if the home master does not have experience at all, it is worth consulting with local professionals or with people who have successfully built such stoves. Choosing a device that is planned to erect your own hands consider several factors:

  • area heated premises;
  • quantity heated rooms;
  • temperature air B. winter time;
  • frequency use heating facility;
  • purpose mini furnace;
  • experiencefurnace construction and repair;
  • material expenses.

Photo 1. Before starting construction, it is very useful to simulate the appearance, sizes and a friend of the future stove.

If planned cook, Preferred will be an option with cooking filling and a brass cabinet. Need in hot water In winter and in the offseason, the water tank will close in a niche. In her, removing the removable tank, you can dry shoes and other things. If there is always electricity in the house or gas stove, Choose an option without cooking filling and niches for the oven.

For regions where winter temperatures go down below 20 degrees and keeps at this level weeks, suitable large oven oven with thermal screens. Mini stove not recommended Turn continuously more than two hours in a row.

For many people matters design Designs. It can be littered with tiles or lay a brick with a relief surface.

Materials

For the chosen project, the mini-furnace will need high-quality brick. Should be chosen smooth brick 1 gradeuniform painting, without chipping and cracks.

For masonry bricks homemade Master Without experience, it is better to choose ready mix in a construction store. It is bred according to the manufacturer's instructions.

If the wizard creates a solution from individual ingredients, you should purchase sand and clay. The ratio of materials is determined by the experimental way. The solution draws the spatula and tilted it working surface by 45-50 degrees. Masonry mass normal composition Does not fall coming from the spatula and does not flow from it.

Instruments

You will need all the tools of the liver and the table to which you can get up when laying upper rows. In the list Tools include:

  • spatulas: Wide and narrow:
  • master OK;
  • opening for the formation of beautiful seams;
  • trowel;
  • a hammer Flat and kirk fader;
  • kiyanka;
  • level long construction;
  • plumb building;
  • wooden bar for frame;
  • threads, fishing line, chalk for the markup of the base;
  • bulgarian with a set of disks for cutting and grinding;
  • rule Aluminum.

Important! The temperature in the room during furnace laying and drying it should be a plus (from plus 5 degrees).

Need for the preparation of the solution big Buck. Paste need for mixing wooden mixer (paddle) and construction mixer.

Preparation of space for the furnace

Before masonry, a mini-oven prepare in advance foundation. It is necessary, because even the smallest device with brick tube Wemit from 500 kg and more.

Such pressure on the floorboards will lead to the deformation of the floor and the furnace walls. It can cause a fire on the roof and in the house.

There are several options for the construction of foundations. Building concrete base For a mini-furnace includes next steps:

  • excavation Kotlovana 50-70 cm deep;
  • dumbness of the soil in the pit;
  • laying in the pitting layer of rubble ( 20-25 cm);
  • laying in the pitted sand ( layer 15-20 cm);
  • sand and crushed stone;
  • waterproofing with rubberoid: joints seal by tar, mastic bituminous;
  • installation of steel reinforcement with cellular diameter no more than 8-10 cm;
  • pouring concrete and sealing by its vibrate;
  • laying on a dried concrete of two layers of rubberoid for additional waterproofing.

Important! The stove is elevated on the foundation, which stands for its perimeter by 10-20 cm. From the side of the furnace it is recommended leave 50-70 cm The foundation to mount the premutoral platform on it.

Masonry coach

The laying of ceramic brick is carried out on the clay and sandy solution on the prepared foundation:

  • 1 and 2 rows. Solid masonry.

Photo 2. The layout scheme of the first rows for a small heating and cooking stove. Then follows the chimney pipe.

  • 3 row. Lay out the camera for pushed. Install (on wire or metal sheets) the door pissed.
  • 4 row. The masonry continues to strengthen and strengthen its door. The ledge is laid out for a grasp grille.
  • 5 row. On the ledges, free, without a solution, put a grate. Around him leave clauses of 5-7 mm.
  • 6 row. In the portal of the furnace install the fuel door. It is attached by styling in steel wire seams or with steel planks. Planks also fit into the seams per solution.
  • 7-11 rows. Firework laying, final fixing the door laying wire (steel plates) in the seams per solution.

Photo 3. Installation and mounting of doors for firebox and cleaning. With the help of a plumbing is followed by the accuracy of the public.

  • 11a. Upon completion 11 rows Place the metal strip (or corner), to which the cooking flooring will be relying. After that, the cooking flooring is put.
  • 12-15 rows. Walls around the cooking flooring (cooking chamber) are erected, the chimney is laid out from the furnace.
  • 15a. In order for the hob of a non-combustible material over the cooking chamber, a flat slate sheet is put on it.
  • 16 row.The hob of the cooking chamber is closed with solid masonry, they continue to lay the chimney.
  • 17 row. Installing the doors for cleaning the chimney (on wire or steel strips).
  • 18 row. Fastening the door.
  • 19-22 rows. Layout for the selected scheme.
  • 23 row.Laying a niche for the oven.
  • 24 row. Laying of the walls of the brass cabinet, installing the oven. At the bottom of the chamber around the perimeter lay asbestos cardboard bands. The oven is wind asbestos (for more contact with brick masonry and heat accumulation) and finally install in a niche.
  • 24-27 Rows. A brickwork is brought around the oven.
  • 28 row. Installing the second door for cleaning the smoke channel.
  • 29 row. Installing valves over a smoke canal.
  • 30 row. Layout for the selected scheme.
  • 31 row. Installing the second valve over the smoke channel.
  • 32 row. Completion of masonry.

Besides, 32 rows is the basis for erection chimney . It can be brick or metal.

Photo 4. An example of a finished brick mini stove with decorative finish. The design is not provided for cooking, but it will warm the house well.

Problems in the construction of a mini-furnace with their own hands

Lovers-lovers in inexperience commit errorswhich then lead to problems. Consider the most common cases:

  • Laying furnaces S. deviation from the project. As a result, there are no normal thrust in the flue channels, the walls are unevenly heated. Solving the problem will be furnace analysis and climb schemework.
  • Laying furnaces "on the eye", without using the level, frame, plumb, rules. The device is thrown away, the center of gravity is shifting, during operation, the device is quickly crumbling.
  • In small buildings of temporary residence

Brick ovens equipped with hobUniversal - they allow you to warm the house, as well as heat the water and cook food. , From the simplest and most compact, which can be folded with your own hands, to complex multifunctional, whose laying is better to entrust the experienced Michetic.

It would seem that there is nothing easier than to replace the suitable surface of the brick oven with your own hands on a metal insert, having received a stove for cooking. In fact, everything is much more complicated. The stove is a complex device, and the thermophysical processes occurring in it depend on the right location Her elements.

Special requirements are presented to the furnaces of this type. On the one hand, it must effectively accumulate heat in the thicker of brickwork, on the other - to take a significant part of heat for heating hobs . In the summer, when the house heating is not required, the cooking plate must quickly warm up with the economical fuel consumption.

Requirements

Theoretically, the cooking surface can be made from any material capable of heat up to high temperatures when furnace furnace. In practice, they are used with holes closed with a removable lid.

This design allows you to get a zone on a plate with different temperatures. The thermal conductivity of the cast iron, in contrast to steel, is not very high, so on the plane of the plate you can warm the food, as well as cook or stew "on slow heat." And opening the lid, you can achieve direct heating Cookware with an open flame, which allows you to quickly boil the water or fry food in a pan.

Most practical konforkshown in the photo consisting of concentric rings of different diameters - They can be chosen under the size of the bottom of the dishes. In addition, the gaps between the rings compensate for the temperature expansion of the cast iron, which occurs during overheating, and the stove without damage withstands multiple heating and cooling cycles. Solid cast iron plates are less reliable and require more neat firebox.

Materials

What brick is preferable for masonry stove equipped with a cookbook?
In most cases, in the schemes of furnaces of furnaces for home, cottages or baths, you can see the brick of two types: the usual ceramic full-length and refractory chamotte - it is most often denoted by yellow. From chamotte brick, with your own hands lay out those parts that are experiencing the greatest heat loads : Topial and oven, part of the smoke channel immediately after the furnace chamber.

The main difference of chamotte brick - its increased heat capacity. It is able to accumulate and give a long time to give the resulting heat more efficiently than ceramic. For laying a heating furnace, and especially this is an indisputable plus.

But if the stove is used primarily as a cooking, then the high heat capacity of the chamot is rather a lack: it will absorb a significant part of the heat, and more time will need to prepare. In the summer it will be possible to prepare on such a stove - it will be hot and stuffy in the room.

If the furnace is used mainly for cooking, it is recommended to use the minimum amount of chamotte brick!

Views

The types of heating and cooking stoves are many, each live shop probably has several tested drawings and diagrams for which the masonry performs with their own hands. But, one way or another, all of them are composed on the basis of the well-known, which are discussed below.

Swedish oven.

"Swedie" was originally intended to perform several functions: Heating, cooking a variety of meals, as well as drying and storage in warm clothing. Its design is thought out for the smallest detail, the furnace is equipped with a cooking surface, and an oven, and perfectly warmed by niches-tubes. In addition, her smoke channels are performed in such a way that the body of the furnace warms up evenly below the topThanks to which the room holds a stable temperature.

A distinctive feature of the Swedish stove, presented in the photo - oven. And its function is not limited to the baking of dishes and pastries. The oven is located next to the furnace and separated from it a thin layer of masonry. The arch of the furnace is formed by a stove located in a niche. Immediately after the start of the furnace, the cooking surface and the wall between the fuel and the oven are well warmed.

In winter With full loading oven initial the heating of the room occurs convection From the stove and oven, after the end of the furnace - due to the heated walls of the furnace. The cooking surface does not overheatSince the air is constantly circulating over it.

Summer oven is used mainly for cooking. In this case, intensive convection does not occur, as there is no temperature difference, and for good warming the plate is sufficiently small amount of fuel. The oven also warms up, creating a zone at the exit from the fuel high temperaturesThrough what flue gases go to the channels completely burned. The body of the furnace at the same time heats up slightly.

The scheme and drawings of the masonry of the Swedish furnace are provided with their own hands in the picture.

For the masonry of the classic "Swede" with their own hands necessary:

  • brick red full-length brand M 150 - 580 pieces;
  • the mixture is dry masonry on a clay basis - 200 kg;
  • copyright grille cast iron;
  • fire door;
  • the door pissed;
  • cast iron plate with two collapsible burners;
  • oven welded from sheet metal;
  • distribution of chimney - 2 pcs;
  • cleaning - 3 pieces;
  • steel corner of equestrous 40 mm - 170 cm;
  • steel strip 5x50 mm - 65 cm;
  • flat slate with a thickness of 10 mm - 1 sheet;
  • roofing iron.

The foundation for the Swede makes a solid, from concrete. Under the foundation, it is necessary to make a sandy-gravel pillow with a thickness of 15-20 cm. The height of the foundation itself is at least 30 cm, with a two-layer reinforcement from the rod. The foundation before the start of the masonry is withstanding at least 20 days for a durability.

Align the foundation using a screed with a floor level. After its drying, it is necessary to perform thermal insulation of the furnace from concrete, in otherwise It will take a significant part of the heat.

Perform it like this:

  1. the foundation is put asbestos a sheet with a thickness of 3-4 mm with dimensions, by 30 cm exceeding the dimensions of the furnaces from the sides and behind and 60 cm on the side of the furnace;
  2. the asbestos is laid by the heat transferser - foil or thin galvanized;
  3. next - another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
  4. roofing sheet with the same indentes as asbestos;
  5. on top of iron - technical felt, impregnated with clay milk in size of the furnace.

On top of the felt after its drying, the furnace laying is starting according to the order scheme:
The first two rows - solid. They form the base of the furnace. Third and fourth - Install the door pissed, cleaning and begin to form the lower part of the smoke ruling and the ash bar. In 5 row Install grate and oven. In 6 row The flue channels continue to lay out the septum between the oven and the heat chamber. In 7 row put the windshield door, fix it in 8 and 9 rows, continue to display channels. 10 rows Forms support for the hob. To correctly install it, you must first fold the brick to dry, attach the slab and place the styling grooves.

Bricks for the convenience of masonry are numbered, the row is disassembled and choose using a grinder of excavation for laying the plate with such a calculation so that the gap of 5 mm remains from all sides. After that, the row are collected on the masonry solution, and the slab itself is put on the clayabestous liquid solution. For its preparation in a masonry solution, diluted to creamy-like consistency, crushed asbestos are introduced. When laying the plate necessarily check it in terms of level. If the burners are different size, Big layer over the furnace smaller - above the oven.

Welding Plate Styling Rules: Video

From 12 to 16 row Put the walls of the niche above the stove and smoke channels. Over 16 rows lay a sheet of flat slate in size niche and in 17 and 18 rows Lay it with brick, forming overlap of the furnace. Next Masonch lead according to the scheme up to 30 rowswhich put a valve, after which you get to the laying of the desired height.

Small cooking stove

In the country or on summer cuisine The furnace can only be installed for one goal - cooking. In this case, there is no need to spend the material on the smoke. The excellent model of the cooking furnace is presented at the order.

This multifunctional wood stove performs several functions: you can cook and fry on the cooking surface, in the oven - bake, in addition, it is equipped with a built-in tank for water heating.

On the sketch of the facade shows its elements:

  • 1 - firebox;
  • 2 - asolnik and pissed;
  • 3 - oven;
  • 4 - water tank;
  • 5 - Clean door.

The furnace according to the design and type of heating resembles a "Swede", but without smoke channels. The heated smoke goes immediately into the chimney, so they drown the furnace with a small amount of fuel. The exit to the chimney is located behind, which allows you to bring the pipe through the wall with your own hands, observing fireproof norms.

On such a stove. requires no more than 250 pieces of brickthat allows you to install it on the floor of the house without the construction of the foundation. In this case, it is also necessary to do thermal insulation, but in reverse sequence: felt felt, impregnated with a liquid clay solution, and it is a roofing sheet on it. On top of the sheet begins the masonry.

The first two rows, like the Swedish, solid. In 3rd row Install cleaning in 4 and 5 - The door of the ashtar, form the smoke and the yield into the chimney. In 6 row Make the overlap of the door of the ashtar, set the oven and water tank. In 7 row On the bottom of the fireboxes put a grate from 8 to 10 row Lay out the partition between the furnace and the oven, put the floppy door. 11 rows - overlap over the door of the furnace, oven and tank. Also in 11 row make a recess for laying the plate.

The top of the furnace is overlapped with a hob of cast iron with two mounted. They are selected so that the most heated is located above the furnace. Place a plate with a gap of 5 mm on a clay solution with the addition of asbestos.

Kuznetsov furnaces

Fundamentally new design The furnaces are implemented in unlike channels, they are deprived of a complex system of internal moves, and the circulation of gases occurs in the cavisals - caps. For this feature, Kuznetsov stoves are called the cap. In the number of its developments - heating, cooking, furnaces for baths and cottages.

In channel furnaces, hot gases pass through the labyrinths of the moves, gradually moving warmth. This causes uneven heating, and sometimes the destruction of the furnace elements. With insufficient length of the channels, for example, in stoves for a bath, gases do not have time to cool, the result is reduced efficiency, and the stove warms the air.

In the cap structures, the heated smoke rises into the cavity, the cavity, a limited overlap, and from below having an output. Hot gas at the top of the cap gradually cools, heating the stove wall, and gradually lowers down. Circulation of gases in Kuznetsov's cap furnaces is shown in the figure.

For full heat transfer in Kuznetsov furnaces, there are not alone, but two or three caps, and their placement can be as vertical - each other, for example, in furnaces for a bath and horizontal - in models equipped with a bed. Heating and cooking furnaces tend to imply the vertical location of the caps.

The cooking surface is located either above the furnace, or forms a vault of the bottom cap. In the second case, the temperature on it will be more stable. Finding orders with their own hands, as well as the photos of the most popular designs of Kuznetsov furnaces are presented below.

Heating and cooking stove

Kuznetsov oven for bath

Video: Masonry of the heating and cooking stove Kuznetsova

Video: Kuznetsov oven for bath

Heating-cooking furnace is an indispensable attribute of the village house, as well as recreation areas in the bath or in the country. If there is a scheme, drawings, coaches and detailed instructions, it can be folded with your own hands, and it will warm the house and delight the owners with a variety of delicious and fresh dishes.

There are a large number of diverse furnaces that can serve both for heating and for heating at home and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room, the desired option is selected, which will be most effective for this area. In addition, any of the furnaces should be established with the obligatory accounting of the requirements developed by experts according to SNiP 41-01-2003.

In the contemporary information space, brick furnaces for the house drawings can always be found on the Internet. However, it is necessary to remember that it is quite difficult to build this structure, since each liver has its own developments and professional secretswho are purchased only with experience.

Criteria for selecting a brick oven

If it is still decided to make such a job independently, then it is necessary to decide on the model - with knowledge of the case, turning attention not only to the appearance and design of the furnace, but also on its heating abilities in relation to the room that it will have to dump.

When choosing a furnace in size, it should be borne in mind that its lateral walls give more heat than the front and rear. This factor must be foreseen by planning the installation of the stove in one location.

The furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but in its form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a bed or kitchen stove and others.

Furnaces can only be used for heating residential rooms And to be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a separation wall between the living quarters and the kitchen.

For premises with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, but it will take too much useful places that can be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house also plays a major role, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building.

Furnace selection table depending on from the area of \u200b\u200bthe area and the location of the rooms:

Room Square, m²Furnace surface, m²
Not an angular room inside the houseSingle angle roomOutdoor roomParishion
8 1.25 1.95 2.1 3.4
10 1.5 2.4 2.6 4.5
15 2.3 3.4 3.9 6
20 3.2 4.2 4.6 -
25 4.6 6.9 7.8 -

All these criteria should be predetermined in advance, and, based on them, you should make a choice in favor of one or another model.

Types of brick furnaces

As mentioned above, the design of the furnaces can be different - and very difficult to build, and quite simple. The most famous of the models is the "Holland", "Swedie", "Russian". Modifications called the names of their designers are widely popular. So, the kukov, Podgorodnikova, Kuznetsova and other masters are very common.

  • Exist heating furnacesnot having a cooking plate and other elements, and consist only from the walls in which smoking channels, fireboxes, pensive and cleaning chambers pass.

  • Heating and cooking furnaces have a stove in their design for cooking, sometimes oven, water tank and drying chamber.

  • Another type of heating is a furnace-fireplace, which has two fireboxes in its design - fireplace and furnace. This model can be used by flashing only one of the furnaces or both at the same time.

  • There are also furnaces that include the entire complex necessary for human vital activity both in the summer and in winter. Often they are equipped with a heated bed, which can well serve as the basis for the bed.

You may be interested in information about what is

Prices for ready-made heating furnaces

heating furnaces

Choosing a place to install the furnace

It is important to envisage and the right place to install the furnace. The optimal place is to cross the walls of the house. If it does not have a large area, then such a stove can heat all the rooms at the same time. It is desirable that the structure is not far from the entrance to the building, since the heat coming from it will create an obstacle for cold air coming from entrance door. In addition, if the firebox door goes to the hallway, it is easier to deliver fuel to it, without bringing it through the whole house.

When choosing a place, you need to take into account several other factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:

  • The structure must be established in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - it is necessary to take into account for unhindered monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the cameras.
  • When erecting the furnace, it is necessary to provide for it separate foundationnot connected to the base of the house.
  • The chimney tube should pass between the beams of the attic overlap and do not stumble upon them when it is raised - it is provided for the construction of the house, and if the furnace is built in the finished building, then before booking the foundation for it.
  • For fire safety, on the floor, the heat-resistant flooring from a metal sheet or ceramic tile must be located on the floor before the furnace door.

Basic Brick Furnace Design

To know how each of the furnace elements works, and for which it is intended, it is necessary to consider the basic design of the heating structure:

  • The fuel chamber is designed for laying and burning fuel. It is separated from the underdener chamber with a grate grid and is connected to the inner channels, which follows smoke and hot gases through the entire oven, redirecting to the chimney pipe.
  • A configuration chamber provides an adjustable air supply to the furnace and is a collection of ash from burnt fuel, so it requires periodic cleaning.
  • The oven, the cooktop and the water heating tank - these elements are embedded in the heating and cooking furnaces.
  • Claimed cameras are needed, as they are assembled in them, which crepts from the walls of chimney channels passing inside the furnace. Using them, periodic furnace cleaning is performed to maintain normal traction.

  • Chimney channels passing inside the furnace can have a different configuration in different models. Hot gaseous combustion products, passing along them, heats the walls of the furnace, which give heat into the room.
  • Channels are sent smoke with combustion products into the chimney pipe located at the very top of the furnace and then the outward building.

One of the most important conditions efficient work The furnace is a good thrust, which is achieved by high-quality masonry with compliance with the co-order and periodic cleaning in the construction during operation. In addition, it is necessary to observe the necessary height of the chimney pipe and its proper location on the roof.

Perhaps you will be interested in information about why

Materials for building oven

An important issue for the durable functioning of the furnace is the choice qualitative materials For her laying, so you should not save on them. For the construction of the structure, it will be necessary:

  • Red refractory brick, the amount of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading should be carried out extremely neat.
  • Chamotte brick is used to masonry the heat chamber directly in contact with fire. It will be required from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact amount can be found from the schema of the selected model. This kind of brick is able to withstand the temperature of 1450-1500 °, it holds heat for a long time, gradually giving it the walls of the furnace.
  • Do not do in lifting the furnace and without a solution for masonry brick, which is made on the basis of clay. Pechskens advise to apply the Borovichevsky composition of the solution - it is enough plastic in the process of masonry and refractory during operation.
  • Cast iron elements are the doors for firebox, pondered and sewage chambers, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking furnace rises, then it will be necessary one- or two-competophoic Plate, oven and water heating tank provided by construction.

  • Steel wire for fastening cast iron elements in masonry.
  • Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal details.

You may be interested in information about making a cast iron furnace

Now, having become acquainted with some nuances of the construction of the furnace, you can consider several models that should be available for masonry even beginners.

Heating furnace V. Bykov

This furnace is designed only for heating, as it does not provide for installing a plate or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for homes having a small area, as it is compact - takes little space, but at the same time there are even three rooms.

The structure of the structure is 510 × 1400 mm, when it is height without a pipe in 2150 mm. If you take a size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The furnace is quite simple in the masonry, as it does not have complex internal configurations. On the appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, so the designer himself called it a "thick warm wall". The heat transfer from the entire structure is 2400 kcal / h, but at the same time the side walls account for 920 kcal / h, and on the front and rear part of only 280 kcal / h. The cross-section of the chimney channel is 130 × 260 mm.

Thanks to its small width, the furnace fits perfectly between two rooms, leaving the front part to the third, for example, to the hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a heat source for them.

The entire design of this model is divided conditionally into two compartments - this is the upper gas feeding and the lower - heat. Two channels pass on the lower part - ascending and downward. They help heat the fuel part of the furnace and level the temperature throughout the structure, preventing overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided, on five vertical, descending and upstream channels, which are overlapped with horizontally laid in the masonry bricks. They create a kind of sieve, a delayed heat outlet directly into the pipe. The walls of the channels not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase the inner surface area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It also contributes to the valve installed in the upper part, which regulates the output of warm air into the pipe.

For this model, the furnace will need the following materials:

  • Red refractory brick - 407 pcs.
  • White Chamotte Brick Sha -8 197 pcs.
  • Machine door 210 × 250 mm - 1 pc.
  • Doors of cleaning 140 × 140 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Gearing grille 250 × 252 mm -1 pcs.
  • Smoking gate 130 × 250 mm -1 pcs.
  • Metal sheet for I flooring before furnace, 500 × 700 mm -1 pcs., Instead of a leaf, ceramic tile can be laid.

Prices for ready-made fireboxes for brick stoves

Brick stoves

Furnace coach Bykova

The furnace laying occurs on the foundation prepared for it, which must be the size of a greater base of the furnace 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The foundation in height should be lower than the first floor for two rows of masonry. Before the start of the masonry, it will be supplied by a layer of waterproofing - rubberoid.

OrderDescription of work
According to this scheme, two zero rows are represented, which are below the level of the first floor.
For each of the rows, 22 red bricks will be required.
Masonry located at one level with a clean floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted before furnace.
The surface of the floor around the furnace is facing the heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
1 row - a subdivile camera is formed. At the entrance to it, an armful brick is installed, which makes it easier to select the combustion waste.
For the masonry of this row, 21 bricks need.
2 row - when it is masonry, the door is installed attended and the camera itself continues to form.
For the masonry of this row, 20 bricks will be required.
3 row - a subdivile camera continues to form.
The wire, fixed on the door of the door, is inserted into the laying seams.
For a row, 19 whole bricks will need and 2 by ⅓ bricks, which are stacked near the installed door.
4 row - bricks overlap the front of the subdivinal chamber along with installed door. In the rear of the design, the base of the swivel well begins to form.
On this row will take 12 integers, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
5 row - the base of the fuel chamber is formed above the subdivinal chamber of chamotte brick. In the front and rear part of the base, crane bricks are stacked, for which burning waste will be slipped into an agolate-infideling chamber through a grate installed on the same row.
Between it and bricks should necessarily be leaving a 5 mm gap.
The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row.
17 will need 17 and two bricks.
6 row - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the chimney of the well continues to be laid out.
11 pieces of chamotte brick are used.
7 row - the chimney the well is divided into two bricks. Bricks over the wells must be stesany.
As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and downward.
In this row, 11 integers are used, 2 in ½ and 4 cut sliced \u200b\u200bacross the entire width of chamotte bricks.
8 row stacked according to the scheme, repeating the previous one, the difference is only the direction of the brick.
15 bricks will go to a row.
9 row - two bricks overlap the fuel chamber door.
This series will require 16 chamotte bricks.
The back of the furnace is placed according to the scheme.
10 row - bricks fit according to the scheme in compliance with their direction.
On this series you need 16 bricks.
11 A row - brick on the back wall of the furnace and at the entrance to the drop-down channel should be stanese from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme.
The range will require 12 integers, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ chamotte bricks.
12 row - there is a union of the falling chimney channel and the fuel chamber.
For a number you need 13 integers and 2 in ½ chamotte bricks.
13 row is placed, according to the presented scheme, and it uses 10 integers, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ chamotte bricks.
14 row also stacked according to the scheme, 10 integers will be required and 6 in the brick.
15 row - using prepared bricks, size ¾, the narrowing of the fuel chamber is arranged, combined with a downward channel.
The total number of used bricks 7 and 14 pieces in ¾.
16 row - bricks completely overlap the combined downstream channel and fuel chamber.
This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air top and fuel lower.
For a number used 17 integers, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
17 A row is laid out of red bricks.
It is left in the opening of the upward channel, the crashing bricks are mounted in its edges.
14 integers are used, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
18 row - a horizontal furnace channel is formed, it is the basis for mounting five channels that will go vertically.
On the same row, the door of the clear chamber is installed.
For a number, 8 integers are needed, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 in the brick.
19 row - there is a formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure. It will be a continuation of the rising channel of the lower furnace.
Bricks forming this channel, you need to take a distance from the bottom.
11 and 4 in the brick are used.
20 row - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first.
Between the first and second channels, Polikirpich is mounted. This part in this row and in the following has a double purpose - is the basis for the next row and forms in the laying of the windows for heat exchange with walls and maintaining normal thrust.
In the row used 7 integers, 3 in ½ and 8 in the brick.
21 row - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. Bricks stacked in the base of separating wall channels, shut down, as in previous cases.
For a number, you will need 11 integers, 5 in ½ and 4 in the brick.
22 row is placed according to the scheme with compliance with the formation of channels.
For a number you need 11 integers and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, a total of 17 pieces.
23 row is also placed according to the scheme and it is necessary to prepare 12 integers for it, 4 in ½ and 4 in the brick.
24 row - the wall laying is completed on this row between the second and first vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall is shy away from the two top sides of the male.
For a number it will take 9 integers, 3 in ½ and 8 in the brick.
In total, it is necessary to use 18 bricks, some of which are divided in two.
25 row - the wall laying between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The upper brick in the wall is shy on both sides.
For masonry, 10 integers will be required, 4 in ¾ and 5 in ½ bricks.
26 row - completion of the wall masonry between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick wall is also shuffling on both sides.
It is necessary to prepare 10 integers, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
27 row - work follows according to the scheme, and it requires 9 integers, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
28 row - It uses bricks made in ¾ from whole bricks - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called the cap.
For a number, 4 integers are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 crane spacing throughout the thickness.
29 row - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely overlap, except for the opening left for the chimney pipe.
For its masonry, 17 integers will be required, 4 - ¾ and 2- ½ bricks.
30 row is also laid out solid, according to the scheme, except for the discharge for the chimney.
It uses 6 integers and 20 V ¾ bricks.
31 row is laid out according to the scheme and for it is prepared by 17 integers, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
32 row - the first series of chimney pipe begins to be laid out, it will take 5 whole bricks for it.

Furnace-fireplace "Swedie" A. Ryazankina

Positively popular, thanks to its effectiveness, the heating and cooking furnace of the Swedish type. Its design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to drop the house, but also prepare lunch.

Appearance "Swedish" Ryazankina

Such a furnace is usually installed between the kitchen and the residential area of \u200b\u200bthe house, having it in such a way that the cooking plate and oven are turned toward the kitchen. In some designs, "Swedish" from the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom, a fireplace is provided. It is this option that it is worth considering, as it is perfect for both spacious and small build, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.

This furnace model is heated with firewood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height without taking into account the pipe. It should also be envisaged that the portal of the fireplace will act beyond the structure of 130 mm. The foundation should be larger than the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of "Swedes" reaches 3000 kcal / hour.

For the construction of this model, the following materials will be required:

  • Red Brick, excluding pipe masonry - 714 pcs.
  • Standing door 140 × 140 mm - 1 pc.
  • Door for the furnace chamber 210 × 250 mm - 1 pc.
  • Door for clean cameras 140 × 140 mm - 8 pcs.
  • Okrug cabinet 450 × 360 × 300 mm - 1 pc.
  • Two-door cast iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
  • Gear grate 200 × 300 mm - 1 pc.
  • Shifting valve 130 × 250 mm - 3 pcs.
  • Steel corner 50 × 50 × 5 × 1020 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 920 mm - 3 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 530 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 480 mm - 2 pcs.
  • The lattice for the fireplace, it can be made independently from the reinforcement rods.
  • Metal sheet dL I floor before the furnace 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
  • Asbestoset or cord for laying between metal elements and cloth bricks.

Masonry furnace

On the presented schemes, the location of all cast-iron elements of the fireplace furnace is shown in detail, and the masonry description will help avoid mistakes on some, quite complex, stages of work.

Experienced Masteners are recommended to perform the masonry of the entire furnace to start dry, that is, without a solution, adhering to the scheme and disassembled in the configuration of each row. This process is especially important to conduct newcomers who are barely familiar with the work of the liver.

Another cunning of experienced masters is a preliminary fitting and laying of each of the rows without a solution in the process of work. Any row is first laid out, and if there is a need, separate bricks are cut off or peredalized, and then their masonry is already produced.

Such an approach will somewhat slow down, but it will make it much better, without errors that are able to negatively affect the creation of a normal traction.

Performing a masonry, at hand you need to keep not only the scheme of each of the rows, but also the drawing of the furnace in the context. It will also help - allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnace.

So, the laying is made as follows:

Order - from 1 to 6 row

  • The first, solid row of the furnace, stacked onsteered on ready Foundation Ruberoid. It is very important to lay out a number perfectly and right, since the quality of the masonry of the whole design will depend on it. Therefore, it first stands the belt Ruberoid to be placed using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing out the shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, leaning on the scheme and observing the configuration of the styling of the brick, the first row is assembly, and then the masonry per solution.
  • 2 row. It contains metal elements consisting of segments of reinforcement, which will be fixed in the future by welding the fireplace lattice, or this decorative element VM levels completely. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
  • 3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and configuration chamber are mounted, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or covered asbestos. To fix the door on the ground, the wire is used, which is fought in the special loop-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the laying seams, where it is fixed with the solution and presses the upper round of bricks. Temporarily, before the final consolidation, the doors on both sides are mapped with bricks.

  • 4 row. The work goes according to the scheme, but a number is notable for the fact that the doors from two sides are fixed with the masonry that you need to withdraw perfectly smoothly. The seams in this area can be two - three millimeters wider, due to the wires embedded in them.
  • 5 row is recommended to lay out with the use of chamotte fire-resistant brick, as well as all the walls of the furnace chamber. In the same row, a grate grid and an oven box, which is wrapped or plated asbestos, in order to avoid its premature exercise.

  • 6 row. A flue door is installed on this row, incorrosted by asbestos cord, and with wire segments recorded in it.

  • 7 row. The masonry is made according to the scheme, a steel band is mounted above the wall walls, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is placed smoothly or in the form of a half mart, giving it a necessary form in advance.
  • 8 and 9 ranks are laid out according to the scheme presented.
  • 10 row. The front wall of the furnace is strengthened, as a cast-iron cooking plate will be mounted in this part of the structure. A steel corner is fixed on the wall using two wire hooks, then the segments of the asbestos sheet are put on the installation site, and the stove itself is installed. In the same row, the door is fixed by another sewage chamber.
  • 11 and 12 rows are laid out according to the scheme without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row there is overlapping the door of the sewage chamber.

Order - from 13 to 24 row

  • From 13 to 15 rows are put on the designed scheme, strictly adhering to the configuration of brick masonry.
  • 16 row. The device of the chamber walls is completed, located above the cooking plate, which overlaps with metal stripes. They will serve as the basis for laying the bricks of the next row.
  • 17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
  • 19 row. At this stage, two more two mines of sewage chambers, which are fixed as previous ones, are mounted.
  • 20, as well as 21 row plays according to the scheme.
  • 22 row. Mounting another two-door cleaning cameras is made.
  • 23 row. Masonry goes according to the scheme.
  • 24 row. The smoke valve is installed, the frame of which is mounted on the solution.

  • 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent channel of the chimney, the second smoke valve is mounted.
  • 26 row. Installation of the door of the sewage chamber is made.
  • From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the scheme.
  • 31 row. At this stage, the third, last chimney valve is established.
  • 32-3rd rows. In this area of \u200b\u200bconstruction, the transition to the lays down the pipe, which rises to the ceiling.

When the pipe is wiring through the attic overlap, it is necessary to isolate combustible design materials from it. To do this, a metal box with sides of the height of the overlap 100 ÷ 120 mm is arranged around the chimney. This "difference" remains in the attic room.

If the walls of the furnace will not be covered decorative materialWhile when making bricks, a wet solution in the seams are still expanded by a special tool, that is, it gives a neat convex or concave form.

The stove is "Swedie" can be supplemented with warm laying. This interesting project is edged into video.

Video: Brick "Swedie" with a layman

And at the end of the article - another good advice. Before you decide on an independent building of the furnace, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended, to begin to practice in the usual masonry of bricks per solution. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance.


Evgeny Afanasyevchief Editor

Publication author27.08.2015

The brick little furnace is sometimes quite useful, especially if you do not have a big room and you do not live in it constantly. It will quickly warm the room and create a comfortable setting.

Today we will tell you how a small brick oven is done with your own hands that it is necessary to take into account and will be offered instructions for the rules of manufacture. You can also watch the video in this article and choose the desired modification.

Mini furnaces and their features

Little brick furnaces for giving have their own features, before making a final decision with them it is worth familiar.

  • The compactness of structures from brick or the device is considered to be the main condition for a small room;
  • An important condition for such a furnace is security, because usually country houses build out of wood, which will quickly dry in the sun and when the claim can be completely flared, like a match. Among other things, the chimney pipe and the device itself must be sealed, they have a beautiful inner traction, because the damp gas that falls inside can lead to enough sad consequences;
  • The furnace, which is placed on the summer site in the winter, should withstand without extracting a long time and not cooked at the same time;
  • Warming up and fast extract of the device, the distribution of heat is also the most important condition for the furnace of a similar type, because during the rain or at the end of difficult work, I want to relax in the warm room and drink hot tea;
  • It is desirable that such a stove is equipped with large doors - so that it can perform the Fire Functions, because without evening gatherings near the fire, it is practically unrealistic;
  • Long preservation of heat is an extremely necessary point, if you go to the house with overnight;
  • Without a cooking surface in a country house, it is practically unrealistic in a country house, especially if electricity is periodically turned off and there is no gas supply;
  • Also an important factor It is fuel that is used for the stove for savings Choose an omnivorous device for heating, which can be cleaned with various variants - rush, coal, firewood or household garbage;
  • It is desirable that in the oven there is an opportunity to build a hot water register;
  • The simplicity of the design of the heating device is allowed to add and install it on their own, which saves a round sum, because the services of masters in this regard are not suiced;
  • An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform the room, or bring some gray spot in the overall design.

Brick furnaces

A small brick oven for giving is applied quite often.

But when installing, the following points will be taken into account:

  • The stove can be installed in such a way that it will spread warmly into several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was removed correctly and the valve is installed - it is considered to be a fireproof, but under this structure it will be necessary to create a strong base, which will be isolated from the foundation of the walls. it bathroomif you do not observe it, then the masonry can lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the foundation at home, he can start pulling the base of the furnace;

ATTENTION: Do not forget that such furnaces do not like long downtime and dampness, therefore, so that the heat transfer to be maximum after the period when it is not used, it is necessary to carry out several dried furnaces without significant loads. In each of them, gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

  • It is because of the fact that the brick is afraid of dampness, such stoves are mounted in the country only when a majority of time live in the house and there is an opportunity to conduct a firebox;
  • Residents of private houses consider useful and real only buildings that are made of bricks. Wherein heating devicesMade from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special comfort and a unique atmosphere. And what else is important - they are multifunctional. Professionals in the bary developed a huge number of diverse models from which you can choose to a specific option.

Installation of a small furnace

A small brick oven is installed with their own hands without any problems.

There are two options here:

  • First option, you just make a stove with the foundation. Then the price of the structure will increase, but it will be a pretty heat machine;
  • Second optionThis is if you do not have enough money and you do not have skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal furnace and to increase the heat capacity simply to put the brick.

ATTENTION: In the first version, you will have a building more space, and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for work

You will need:

  • Twenty liters of the clay solution;
  • Boards;
  • About sixty pieces of brick;
  • Paddle door;
  • Cast iron plate;
  • Cooker;
  • Lattice;
  • Chamotte brick.

The size of a small stove takes 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is stacked on the edge or plafhmy. This species The ovens saves and spreads the heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation device is not a prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well fixed.

A similar furnace is an alternative to bourgear, but it has a more functional ability and the heating part in which the cooking part is provided. She also plays the role of the fireplace. Such a furnace is erected without any problems and within a day.

At the very beginning, it is necessary to melt the stove with paper and chips, but do not take the lamps, because with sharp temperature differences, cracks can be formed in solution. This will further lead to smoking or improper air movement.

Before you run the oven, it is necessary that it is hard enough. Usually enough for about a week.

Mixture mix

Everything can be done with your own hands. Then the price will be significantly lower. In the masonry it is quite possible to apply several compositions. What to choose, to solve you already.

So:

  • For masonry bricks are used slice-sand, cement mortar. For example, insane instead of sand for a mixture is used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is one or more rows of masonry. If the sand is added for the cement brand, the sand is added, then for the screed screed, it is necessary to mix in the ratio of 1/6;
  • The solution from sand and clay prepare a little more difficult, because it will take much more time. So that the Koma clay is broken, they must be mashed in water from the evening, and those that remained in the same condition, it is better to knead their hands so that small lumps remains;
  • The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - everything depends on the degree of fattyness of the solution (this is checked by a trowel). A standard is considered to be a consistency when the solution slides from the trinity without any problems, without leaving the traces, and on its thickness it should remind a puree from potatoes.

How do the stove

How to make a small brick stove now consider in detail. There is a technology and procedure here.

In order to properly build the stove itself, it is necessary to comply with the following recommendations:


ATTENTION: For the furnace part it is necessary to apply refractory material. It will endure and coal fire. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is most practical and durable.

  • Choose a suitable place for mini-stove, and in it instead we are placing the runneroid, film, parchment or hydrosol. The size of such a material should be 78x53 centimeters;
  • On the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter) it is necessary to pour out and spinning sand;
  • From above on it, we put the first row of twelve bricks that do not need to cover the fastening among themselves. After that, align all the bricks in one level so that they are strictly in a horizontal position;
  • A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can start installing the subdivoile door. It is imperative that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. I fix it with the help of a wire, after which you can safely go to laying the following;
  • Chamotte bricks are used for the third row of a mini-stove, after which the grate grille is installed. It is mounted above the confusion only in the case when the third brick range is fully formed;
  • From bricks, we do the following, but they are placed on the edge, in the middle of the chimney, it is necessary to lay stands for internal partitions. The rear wall of the stove is stacked with a small protrusion outside and without the use of clay - they are called bad bricks;
  • After that, we install the flue door. Again, before proceeding to the installation of the door, it must be wrapped with a cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is fixed with wire and for a while they are fixed with several stones. The first is stacked in the back, and the second - on top of the door;
  • Also, for the reliability of attachment to the holes, a wire is started, which twists and the ends are laid in order;

  • The plafhmy makes the fifth row, here we must check the contour of the past row. But the sixth row is stacked by an edge. Then we rub the walls of the big stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
  • On 7 row bricks are placed on the plastics. Next, set a couple of bricks by an edge and proceed to the rear wall;
  • When the time will come, 8 rows of the stove on their own, make sure that it overlaps the flue door, over which it will end. It is at this time that we set the sputted brick above the furnace so that the flames are sent to the center of the plate of the plate;
  • Put the wet asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and stove is completely hermetically. As cast iron and clay has different coefficient Temperature expansion, then the slab does not fit on the clay. After you can go to the ninth row, but here it must be shifted to keep the doors to keep open;
  • When working with the following will require the formation of a chimney, which will expand from behind. To make the stove just such a plan, there is no need for a hood tube that will expand at the top, since this type Pipes will lead to a change in the center of gravity. Exist various schemes chimneys. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined and so on. In our design, the stove must have a direct option;
  • When working with the next next, do not forget about the insertion of the plug, which is condensed with the cord (it is desirable to further deceive its clay);
  • Thus, pipes will be docked with metallic. If the smoke goes aside, it is necessary to overlap with several brick rows;
  • After that, we take a brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from the dirt that accumulated during the construction work;
  • Belim oven. Metal part of the oven itself and its walls by protecting the film. So that it is not a jewel with time, the milk and a small amount of blue can be added to the solution. Each piece of the stove should be processed in the most thorough way, special attention is paid to the joints of bricks and a cast-iron surface;
  • The gaps between the first next and the floor carefully close up. It is necessary in order for the sand that was covered under the brick, did not wake up;
  • After the edge of the structure, you feed the plinth, which will protect the stove about sand rashes. It is nourished in short and tight to overlap all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
  • As soon as you exercise the first heat with chips and paper, we leave all the doors and burners for several days. open positionSo that everything is pretty dry.

A small brick oven for giving is done pretty quickly and will serve it for a long time. The main thing is to watch the photo and select the desired option. The instruction will not let you allow mistakes.