Blooming tulips - a triumph of spring. So that the holiday comes annually, this bulbous plants special care will be needed.

Caring for tulips after flowering

When the tulip petals fade, it is necessary to cut off the flower so that no energy is wasted on setting the seeds. Leaves should not be cut off, they participate in photosynthesis, providing nutrition. Now the main thing is to create conditions for the development of a young replacement bulb, because the old one dies off after flowering.

It is better to break off rather than cut the flowers with a pruner. In the last way diseases of tulips, for example, variegation virus, are easily tolerated.

After flowering, only the flower head breaks off, the entire peduncle does not need to be removed

In order for the onion to be larger, the plants, after flowering, are fertilized to choose from:

• daily infusion of ash;
• potassium magnesium;
• potassium nitrate.

Top dressing is done on wet soil. During this and other stages of growth, it is not recommended to fertilize spring flowers with manure or fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. This can lead to rotting of the bulbs.

Don't forget about soil moisture. While the leaves are green, water the plants abundantly once a week if the spring is dry.

Watering tulips, you need to soak the soil to a root depth: 35-40 cm

Digging the bulbs

So that the flowers do not become smaller, and the bulbs do not get sick and do not degenerate, all kinds of tulips are dug up every year. This is usually done in late June - early July. An exception is tulip babies, they are dug up once every two years. Experienced florists advise:

• host the event in dry weather;
• immerse the shovel deeper than you planted the bulb, as they grow, they deepen;
• destroy all diseased specimens;
• pickle dug planting material in a disinfecting solution.

Digging too early leads to underdevelopment of the bulb and babies. In addition, the decorativeness of future flowers will decrease. If you dig up late, when the shoots dry out, there is a risk that the bulb will have time to become infected with the fungus or the protective covering scales will crack. This can lead to spoilage of the planting material during storage.

If the leaves turn yellow and wither, try winding the stem around your finger. If the shoot does not break, it turns out to be plastic, dig up a control copy. If the scales of the onion turn light brown, it is time to dig.

Do not cut off the stems of the dug tulips at once, let them dry out, but nutrients go to the onion

Once I was presented with a dozen bulbs of peony tulips. The stunning double flowers were blooming for a long time thanks to the cool weather. But after the tops turned yellow, I forgot to dig them up. Not one rose the next spring. Neighbors say that their rare new varieties are degenerating and do not sprout if they are not dug out every year.

Signs that it's time to dig up tulips - video

Drying and disinfection

Dug out tulips are laid out under a canopy in 2 layers for two days. After this time, the bulbous nests disintegrate easily. The bulbs are cleaned of dead roots and husks and disinfected in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. The procedure will destroy pathogens of rot and nourish the tulip with microelements. Then the bulbs are dried again, sorted by size and placed in the open wooden boxes or baskets, preferably in one layer.

In order not to get the bulbs one by one, it is convenient to disinfect them by placing them in a gauze bag

Storage

During summer storage, the bud and buds of future bulbs are finally formed. In order for the aging process to take place correctly, they are first kept for a month at a temperature of about 25 ° C in a well-ventilated room. The optimum humidity is 60–70%. In August, the temperature is lowered to 20 o C, in September and further - to 15 o -17 o C... If these rules are not followed, tulips may not bloom or give “blind” buds.

Periodically, the planting material is examined and discarded by sick or moldy ones. Most often stored tulips are affected by gray rot and fusarium. At the first disease, the bulbs become covered with a gray coating and gradually rot. With the second, brown spots with a brownish border are formed, the bulbs exude bad smell and also decompose. If the lesion is small, the rot is cut off with a sharp knife, the onion is pickled, as usual, then sprinkled with ash and dried.

Poorly dried and not disinfected bulbs are often affected by gray mold

Landing in the ground

Ideally, tulips are planted in the soil in the fall., in late September - early November. Spring disembarkation is also practiced, in April. But then the tulips will bloom much later, because they will need about three weeks to root. It is advisable to change the planting site every year so that pathogens do not accumulate in the soil.

Where spring flowers will grow, moisture should not stagnate. The future flower bed is prepared in 2 weeks so that the earth settles evenly. The bed is dug to the depth of the shovel bayonet and compost, ash or superphosphate are added. Lime if necessary. On clay soils the introduction of peat is encouraged. In the absence of rain, the area is spilled with water.

Before planting, the bulbs are sorted out again and disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. The planting depth of the bulb is three times its height. For large specimens, the distance between the bulbs is 15 cm, for medium ones - 10 cm, small ones - 5 cm. 25–30 cm are left between the rows.

Advanced flower growers plant tulips in special baskets for bulbs, they are very easy to dig

Do not cover the flower beds with organic matter so as not to attract rodents. With the onset of unforeseen frosts, agrofibre is spread on the flower bed, which is pressed by boards.

By advice experienced florist, when planting, I put a handful of sand mixed with ash in the hole. I put an onion on this "slide" and cover it with earth. Now the loss of tulips from various rot on my heavy loam is minimized. And the bulb comes out larger, due to the fact that the sand loosens the soil and the roots develop freely.

Top dressing immediately after flowering, disinfection of bulbs and warm storage with a subsequent decrease in temperature - these are the three whales of a grandiose spring bloom tulips.

• Tulips after flowering - useful tips
• Video: what to do when tulips have faded

Tulips after flowering: what to do with tulips after they have faded. As soon as the tulips have bloomed, the question arises of what needs to be done with them next. So that flowering is not limited to one season, let's figure out the order of actions with faded
tulips.

What to do with tulips after flowering?

After the tulips have finished blooming: they also require attention. In order for tulips to delight you with colorful bloom next season; must adhere to certain actions, namely:

• abundant watering after flowering;
• top dressing;
• digging out the bulbs;
• correct storage.

Tulips after flowering - watering and feeding

Tulips have faded, petals have crumbled, but this does not mean that the flower does not require special action. It is necessary to create favorable conditions, for the formation of a good bulb for the next year.

• Firstly, after the petals have dried up and crumbled, you need to cut off the peduncle. If at this moment you cut off the entire ground part of the tulip, then the bulb will not form for flowering next season. It is necessary to wait until the leaves turn yellow and dry on their own - this will be a signal that the bulb is ripe. If you do not cut the peduncle, then the bulb will give nutrients to the ripening of the seeds, and the bulb will be depleted.
• Secondly, tulips need abundant watering for several weeks after cutting the tulip heads. It is also necessary to loosen the soil and remove weeds.
• Thirdly, faded tulips must be fed with phosphate-potassium fertilizer. Do not use nitrogen and chlorine based fertilizers.

Tulips after flowering - digging out the bulbs

After the tulip leaves turn yellow completely, dig the bulbs out of the soil, following the basic guidelines:

• we dig the bulbs, preferably on a sunny, warm day, so that they dry out in the sun;
• we use a shovel carefully so as not to damage the bulbs and roots of tulips;
• after we dig up the bulbs, we carefully examine them. We throw out rotten and not sprouted bulbs;
• in rainy weather, we wash the dug out bulbs and dry them well;
• we clean the dug out bulbs from stems, roots of surface scales, earth;
• if you notice that the bulb is affected by a fungus, then it must be treated with a fungicide;
• tulip bulbs do not need to be dug for several seasons.

Tulips after flowering - bulb storage

Following the drying of the dug out tulip bulbs, we proceed to sorting them. We put the sorted bulbs in mesh boxes in 1-2 layers. This is to prevent the bulbs from rotting. For correct development bulbs must be observed temperature regime storage:

• in July at 24-26 degrees;
• in August at 20 degrees:
• in September at 17 degrees;
• in the following months before disembarkation, gradually lower the temperature to 12-15 degrees.

Compliance required temperature during storage it is very important, because at this time the processes of bud formation, the laying of leaves, a flower take place. Also, periodically check the bulbs and discard the missing ones. You can store bulbs in the cellar, basement, pantry.

• To propagate a tulip variety, as well as to grow a large bulb, it is necessary to cut off the flowering head on the 4-8 day of flowering. This will help build up the mass of the bulb.
• Crumbled petals, yellowed leaves must be removed from the garden so that they do not rot.
• Plant tulips in special containers or plastic baskets, this will greatly facilitate the work of caring for them. You can dig up containers with faded tulips and rearrange in a secluded place for the ripening of the bulbs.
• In order to understand whether the onion is ripe or not, dig out one and carefully examine it. If appeared on the bulb brown spots on the scales, then the bulb is ripe.

Despite the fact that tulips with the arrival of spring can be found in almost every garden, not everyone knows how to care for tulips, starting with the appearance of the first tender shoots and until the moment when all the flowers wither and the stems dry up.

Caring for tulips from the moment of planting to the appearance of the first buds

Tulips are quite persistent and unpretentious. perennial plants, however, mistakes in caring for them throughout the growing season may well lead to problems such as rotting bulbs, an abundance of blind (non-opening) buds, as well as curvature of thin stems, giving the impression that they are lying on the site.

Tulips are quite persistent and unpretentious perennials.

The first thing you need to take care of in order to significantly increase the chances of getting healthy tulips with flawless flowers: choose a suitable sunny place with loose fertile soil for planting tulips, etc. If you do not pay attention to the sorting of planting material, the selection of the most quality bulbs and their pre-planting processing, in the future you will hardly be able to avoid the damage of tulips with diseases, which means that the trouble will noticeably increase.

Video about tulip care in spring

It will depend on which bulbs you plant on the flower beds appearance, the size of the flowers and the health of the tulips themselves. Therefore, choose bulbs that are large and free from rot, firm and smooth.

Delicate shoots of tulips appear from under the snow from about the twenties of March to mid-April, depending on weather conditions and on the characteristics of the variety. In the event that you mulched the planting of bulbs for the winter, it is recommended to remove the mulch after the snow melts - this way the earth will warm up faster and the tulips will start blooming earlier.

The appearance will depend on which bulbs you plant on the flower beds.

What is required from a gardener after tulips sprout:

• At the stage of germination of tulip sprouts, they should be carefully examined in order to immediately determine which bulbs did not germinate, which plants showed signs of disease. The revealed "marriage" must be dug up and immediately destroyed, otherwise the diseases can spread to the rest of the tulips.
• Around the small sprouts of tulips that have appeared, the ground is gently loosened, increasing the access of the necessary oxygen to the roots and helping to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the ground. In general, caring for tulips in the garden implies regular loosening of the soil throughout the growing season, and especially after watering and rains.
• Before flowering, tulips should be watered fairly sparingly, but the soil should never dry out.
• The first feeding is carried out, as soon as the sprouts appear from the ground. During this period, tulips especially need nitrogen for rapid growth and the formation of leaves. For feeding, you can use nitroammophos or crystallin with the addition of microelements in tablets.
• The next top dressing is not mandatory, but from the introduction of a complex mineral fertilizer when unfolding the second or third leaf, tulips will benefit more than harm.

The first feeding is carried out, as soon as the sprouts appear from the ground

• During budding, tulips absorb nutrients from the soil most efficiently and are in dire need of potassium and phosphorus for the normal formation of a peduncle with buds. Top dressing at this time should contain more phosphorus with potassium and less nitrogen.
• When the buds begin to bloom, you can re-feed the tulips with full mineral fertilizer.

Top dressing must be done very carefully so as not to damage the roots or burn the leaves, so it is best to combine it with watering or spend on a rainy day. The first top dressing should not be scattered over the snow, as it comes off unevenly. It is more expedient to make top dressing in the form of solutions.

Basic actions during the flowering of tulips

When the buds begin to open one by one, and magnificent flowers appear on the flower bed, tulips require special care. They need to be watered abundantly, spending 10 liters of water per one square meter so that moisture penetrates to the roots, and the water should not be cold. When watering and applying dressings in sunny weather, moisture should not get on the leaves, and even more so on the flowers in order to avoid burns.

During abundant flowering tulips need to be fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, the proportion of nitrogen should be minimal, or you can do without it altogether. Trace elements such as boron, zinc, manganese will be useful - they have a beneficial effect on the condition of tulips in general and on the development of bulbs.

During the abundant flowering of tulips, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers

During the flowering of tulips, experienced florists carry out a variety cleaning (transplanting impurities of other varieties to preserve the purity of a certain variety) and phyto-cleaning (removing diseased plants from plantings). Blooming tulips need regular inspection so that plants infected with diseases can be immediately destroyed. The viral disease of tulip variegation is especially dangerous.

It is incurable and is transmitted with plant sap when cut, therefore garden tools need to be disinfected with alcohol or potassium permanganate. During the budding and flowering of tulips, it is easiest to identify.

Do not forget to loosen the soil between the tulips after each watering to prevent the formation of a crust on the soil and at the same time destroy weeds that are highly undesirable for tulips.

Tulips have faded - what to do next?

Unfortunately, the flowering of tulips does not last long, and after a few days, the magnificent flowers begin to fade, reducing the aesthetic appeal of the flower bed. Tulips fade most quickly in hot, dry weather. Nevertheless, even if all the flowers have already withered, continue to water the plantings for another two weeks, since during this time the bulbs are intensively forming underground - thanks to regular watering, they accumulate nutrients better.

To prevent yellowing tulips from spoiling your garden with their dull look, plant the bulbs in special baskets or containers - then the fading plants can be dug up together with containers and removed from the flower bed to another place for the bulbs to ripen.

To prevent yellowing tulips from spoiling your garden with their dull look, plant the bulbs in special baskets or containers.

Caring for tulips after flowering is based on the following rules:

• if you plan to multiply the variety you like and grow large healthy bulbs for this, cut off the flower heads on the fourth or eighth day after blooming (when the flowers are ready to crumble), then the bulbs will begin to increase their mass intensively;
• all fallen petals must be removed immediately, otherwise they will accumulate in the axils of the leaves and rot;
• you cannot cut off the stems of faded tulips until they turn yellow at all, otherwise the bulbs will stop developing;
• you can find out if the bulbs are ripe by digging out one of them - the formed roots and brown spots on the scales indicate that the bulb is ready;
• Dig up the bulbs carefully, lowering the shovel deeply so as not to accidentally injure the roots, try to do this on a sunny day so that you can dry the dug out bulbs outside.

The harvested crop of bulbs is sorted, processed and sent to storage. First, the future planting material is stored at a temperature of +20 degrees, and from the second half of August - at +17 degrees.

Video about caring for tulips after flowering

In the fall, having chosen, the bulbs are planted in prepared beds and watered abundantly. Caring for tulips in the fall also includes preparing the plants for winter. To do this, in mid-October, the planted bulbs are fed with ammonium nitrate, the bed is mulched with a small layer of peat and covered with the onset of cold weather.

Not all gardeners agree that tulip bulbs need to be transplanted annually, however, thanks to transplantation, the flowers remain large, beautiful, and they are less susceptible to disease.

After the end of the flowering period, tulip care does not end. The process of forming bulbs and accumulating nutrients at this time is just beginning and will continue for several more weeks. Therefore, you cannot immediately get rid of the remaining foliage and dig up the tulip bulbs. To obtain high-quality seed material, it is important to water the faded plants in a timely manner and apply top dressing.

Required actions after flowering

They do not stop caring for tulips even after their flowering is over. V otherwise the flower bulb will stop developing. For correct formation bulbs, tulip care after flowering is as follows:

• To get large bulbs of the variety you like, the tulip heads are cut a week after blooming, before the flowers begin to crumble. This will allow the bulbs to build up intensively.
• Watering is not stopped until the plant is trimmed.
• Fallen petals are immediately removed so that they do not accumulate in the axils of the leaves and do not rot.
• Do not prune the foliage until it turns yellow completely, so that the development of the bulb does not stop.
• To control ripening, dig out one onion and examine it for the presence of formed roots and brown spots on the scales.
• In order not to injure the roots when digging out the bulbs, the shovel is driven to a sufficient depth.

When watering tulips, the soil must be moistened to a depth of at least 40 cm. Root system plants are unable to get moisture in the deep layers of the soil, so watering must be deep.

Pruning

After flowering is complete, only those plants that have completely withered and turned yellow can be cut off. In most cases, after the end of feeding, the flower independently drops the peduncle, leaves and arrow. But some varieties need extra pruning when growing.

The flower stalk and foliage of the plant are responsible for the accumulation of nutrients and ensuring the correct formation of the bulbs. After the end of flowering, the necessary chemical processes continue to go on in these organs of the flower. Therefore, premature cutting of the remaining aerial part of the tulip can cause the death of the bulb.

Pruning can be carried out no earlier than a month after the end of flowering. Since the development of each flower is strictly individual, the accumulation of nutrients and the ripening time of the bulbs will also be different. Therefore, the foliage is not pruned in large quantities.

Fertilization

To obtain high-quality seed material, it is necessary that the soil is enriched with such useful substances like potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. With their deficiency, the development of the flower slows down: the stems grow thin, the flower forms small buds and an insufficient number of new bulbs. Therefore, tulips need regular feeding.

Since flower buds form throughout the summer, feeding should be done not only during the growing season, but also after flowering. To do this, potash-phosphorus fertilizers are applied, having previously diluted them in a bucket of water for irrigation. The concentration should be 2 tbsp. l. on a bucket of water.

How do you dig up and store the bulbs?

Tulip bulbs must be dug up every year without leaving them in the ground for the winter. This will improve the quality seed and will prevent infection infectious diseases... The bulbs should be dug up after pruning in late June or early July. At the same time, the early varieties of tulips are first dug up and only then the later ones.

To dry out the bulbs faster, they are removed in sunny, dry weather. After digging, the resulting material is carefully examined. Well-developed bulbs should have healthy roots and brown scales. The injured and sick must be thrown away immediately. Then the selected specimens are dipped for several minutes in a 5% solution of potassium permanganate and dried.

Before landing in open ground for storage, the bulbs are transferred to boxes with a mesh bottom so that the air can circulate better. Seed material is placed in two layers. Prepared boxes are placed in a dark, dry place with good ventilation. The air temperature in the first month in this room should be from +23 to +25 degrees. In the second month, the temperature is lowered to +20 degrees, and before planting on a flower bed, it should be +17 degrees.

When storing bulbs, do not allow sudden changes in temperature, this can lead to the appearance of "blind" buds.

How to plant tulips?

The optimal time to plant tulips begins in the fall in mid-September. Then the plant will have time to take root and in the spring, already in March, it will start to grow. But it's better to navigate by weather conditions. The air temperature at this time should be from +5 to +7 degrees. V northern regions this period may shift to early September, and in the south, tulips are planted only in early October.

Before planting, the seed is peeled and examined to find possible foci of the disease. The damaged copies are discarded. If you are sick expensive varieties tulips, then the damaged areas are carefully cut out with a sharp knife, grabbing a small piece of healthy tissue together with the diseased tissue. Then the cut out places are dried for 20 minutes and treated with a fungicide. When planting, these bulbs are planted separately from healthy ones.

The prepared material for sowing is again treated with a 5% solution of potassium permanganate and planted in a well-lit and draft-protected place in the country or in the garden. The site should be different from the former habitat of tulips. For planting large bulbs, grooves are made 15 cm deep, for children, the depth of the furrow should be 6 cm.A distance of 30 cm is observed between adjacent rows of tulips. wood ash and sand, which will make the soil lighter. After that, the soil is watered so that it envelops the seed better. The bulbs are placed in the furrow, keeping a distance of 10 to 15 cm between them, depending on the size of the specimen. The planted plants need to be watered again for them to take root better.

It is necessary to complete the process of planting tulips at such a time that the plants have time to take root before the onset of frost. Otherwise, they may die from the cold. With the onset of cold weather, the tulip planting site must be covered with a layer of humus or peat.

"Can tulips be pruned after flowering?" Gardeners have answered this question for a long time. They are much more interested in when to prune tulips after flowering, as the process has its own nuances.

In today's article, you will learn how and when to prune tulips after flowering, as well as when to dig up the planting material, how to store the bulbs, when to plant them, and how long after that they will bloom.

Before pruning, tulips are prepared in order to carry out the procedure with minimal damage to the plants. It is necessary to reduce the frequency of fertilizing and watering by the end of tulip flowering. The bulb accumulates all the nutrients necessary for the establishment of new shoots through the stem and leaves.

The stem and leaves serve as a kind of accumulator for tulips, so premature pruning can kill the bulbs and forever deprive the gardener of the pleasure of watching the flowering of these plants.

When to prune tulips: after the end of flowering. The end is evidenced by the complete dying off of the surface part. The stem and leaves have completely lost their petals. In addition, they will be dry and easy to separate from the bulb.

This is where the gardener comes in: it is necessary to mark where the bulbs are in the soil mixture, then cut off the already faded surface of the tulips with a sharp knife or pruner (disinfected). Cropping is complete.

What to do with tulip bulbs after pruning?

After flowering is complete, the surface of the tulips is trimmed, the location of the bulbs in the potting mix is ​​marked, and the grower begins to dig the bulbs out of the soil. To make this easier, the soil mixture can be loosened a little, then pry the bulb with a garden trowel and remove it to the surface.

When to dig up tulip bulbs:

• Second half of June;
• Early July;
• When the leaves are completely yellow;
• If the superficial part is wilted;

Where and how to store tulip bulbs after digging?

The dug up tulip bulbs are placed in separate wooden boxes, then sprinkled with earth a little (1-2 layers). The tulip bulbs are stored sorted by date of extraction and variety. In order to facilitate your future task, you can stretch the bulbs.

Place the container from the onion in a cool, dark place. The future planting material should not fall straight Sun rays or lighting, water. In the place where tulip bulbs are stored after digging, drafts, insects, rodents, temperature fluctuations are excluded.

Where to store tulip bulbs:

• In the attic;
• In a semi-basement room;
• In the pantry;
• In a dry basement;
• In a dry cellar;

As soon as the planting season comes - the temperature of the soil and air, the lighting will be arranged, - the tulip bulbs return to their original place, but already in the prepared, nourished, moist and loosened soil. Large bulbs will begin to develop and bloom in the first year after replanting, while smaller ones will sprout in the first year and bloom in the second.

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