It is probably difficult to imagine anything more annoying and indestructible than aphids on an apple tree. Every year in the summer, hundreds of trees are attacked by these small insects, which in a matter of weeks destroy the entire green part and, being fed, begin to multiply. However, not only aphids pose a danger, other insects, such as ants, crawl onto the pad they secrete. In this article, we will look at what types of aphids infect apple trees and how to deal with them in order to get rid of them once and for all.

Before moving on to the types of aphids that spoil apple orchards, we should dwell on what aphids are in nature. This is a miniature insect whose body rarely exceeds 7 mm. Depending on the species and the plants preferred for eating, the color of aphids also varies: light green, dark green, black, gray, orange, light pink.

Aphids belong to the family of phytophages, insects with a proboscis to disturb the upper integument of plants. One of the key features of this species of insects is that in the process of life they leave honeydew on the occupied leaves and stems, a substance with a high sugar content, which ants, wasps, bees and flies are not averse to feasting on. Aphids on an apple tree, it is also red-headed or gray, come from the aphid family. The eggs overwinter on the bark of branches. fruit trees; in spring, females emerge from the eggs and establish a colony on the selected tree. Their body length is about 2 mm, green with a red head and white antennae, tubes on the back and tail are black.

Females produce up to 40 larvae at a time from which females grow without wings that stick to the underside of the leaves. In June, a generation of females with wings appears, their color changes - the body is black, and the abdomen is green. It is they who become parents for winged and wingless males and females. The peak of development and reproduction of aphids falls on the month of September.

Aphid signs

It is quite easy to identify the presence of aphids on an apple tree - the leaves curl down, turn black and dry out. Gradually, red swellings will appear on the leaves, which precede twisting. The leaves are covered with a sticky liquid - padya, on which ants crawl. In the early stages, the defeat of the tree by aphids is quite difficult to track, since they begin the invasion from the upper young shoots of the tree.

However, over time, there are few fresh leaves for insects and they descend lower, leaving exhausted and dying shoots and leaves behind. On the lower parts of the tree, it is easier to detect the presence of aphids - just turn over any leaf and you will find dozens of larvae. Ants are also one of the symptoms by which you can determine that the plant is infected. Pests also live on the underside of leaves and in buds. Flip the leaf or open the twisted leaf and you will see the insects. Except what the pests suck nutrients from the plant, they are carriers of viral diseases. You should immediately begin to fight against insects, using folk remedies or special preparations.

Aphid control methods

So, what are the ways to deal with hordes of aphids? Use herbal infusions, chemicals, food additives that should be sprayed on the affected tree. It is best to treat the apple tree with chemicals in the spring, when the buds have not yet blossomed.

This way you will reduce the chance of leaving chemical burns on the leaves, but cause significant damage to the aphid larvae.

200 g of the drug "Nitrofen" is diluted in 10 liters of water, which is used to treat the tree before the buds open. It is highly regarded for the destruction of aphid eggs. - You can treat the tree with a 4% solution of the Oleocuprit preparation, which also destroys insect eggs.

The drug "Iskra" helps to get rid of insect eggs, young larvae throughout the entire growing season of the apple tree. To prepare a solution in 10 liters of water, dissolve 1 tablet of the drug. Spraying can be done every 3 weeks. The fight against aphids requires re-treatment of trees, but at the same time so as not to burn the leaves. Therefore, it is recommended to use “safe” drugs: “Spark”, “Decis”, “Cypermethrin”. Also, subsequent treatments can be carried out with herbal infusions, since they cause the least harm to the tree, but are quite effective against insects.

Take 500 g of tobacco, 40 g of soap, 20 liters of water. Soak tobacco in 10 liters of water for 3 days, then strain the infusion, dilute with the remaining water, add soap. You can do the treatment with such a solution every one and a half weeks.

Another option: mix 3 cups wood ash, 40 g of soap, 10 liters of water. After mixing all the ingredients, the solution is insisted for a day. Spray the underside of the leaves. Thus, you can not only fight pests, but also carry out foliar top dressing tree. Ants, as a side symptom of aphids, also require destruction.

Often apple orchards are attacked by aphids, which are quite difficult to deal with. The harm caused by sucking insects affects the development of the tree and the formation of its fruits. With the establishment of warm weather, the pest occupies young leaves and stems of fruit trees in whole colonies. Sucking the juice from the tender tissues of young greenery, it deprives summer residents of a good and high-quality harvest.

Where does aphids come from

Aphids appear on the apple tree thanks to winged females. In areas where preventive pest control work has not been carried out, they appear at the end of the summer season. a large number of. From there, they settle throughout the garden and master neighboring fruit plantings. During this period, insects are extremely prolific. The main task of such females is to breed the sexual generation of insects.

Having fertilized, the female aphid lays a small number of eggs on the apple tree, which successfully hibernate. The adults themselves die from the cold. In the spring, as soon as the temperature regime stabilizes, with high humidity larvae emerge from the eggs. It is they who pose a serious threat to the garden during this period. For two to three weeks, the larvae feed on juice from young shoots, buds, buds and tender leaves.

At favorable conditions after 14 days, each aphid larva turns into a female, which breeds a new generation of winged females (up to 80 individuals). Spreading throughout the district, they occupy new apple trees, pears, plums, as well as fruit bushes. In a new place, females breed the next generation of pests. And so it continues until the end of the summer. Then the cycle repeats again.

Aphids can appear on apple trees with the help of at least harmful insects- ants. For them, the sweet honeydew secreted by pests is a real delicacy. Therefore, ants strive to increase the colony of small sucking insects. They guard and protect their breadwinners.

How to get rid

What to do if an aphid appeared on an apple tree? Information about the development cycles and options for the appearance of the pest will help you choose effective methods and methods of control. Based on your preference, you can choose:

• Application folk methods control of aphids on apple trees;
• The use of modern drugs.

Of the folk, the most effective are the products prepared on the basis of herbs and laundry soap. Most popular with experienced gardeners is an infusion of tobacco dust with the addition of laundry soap.

Preparation of tobacco infusion

To prepare the infusion, you will need the following ingredients:

• Tobacco (shag or tobacco waste will do) - 500 grams;
• Laundry soap - 30-40 grams;
• Water - 20 liters.

Crushed tobacco leaves are poured with warm water in the amount of 10 liters and infused for 2-3 days in a warm place. After that, the resulting infusion is filtered and diluted with the rest of the water. A piece of laundry soap is rubbed on a coarse or fine grater and introduced into the resulting solution and mixed thoroughly until completely dissolved. For better dissolution of soap, it is best to dilute it in 3 liters of warm infusion.

ATTENTION: Soap is necessary so that the aphid remedy lies securely on the branches and leaves of the apple tree. This technique will not allow the first rain to wash off the infusion.

Preparation of infusion from yarrow

Another effective folk remedy against aphids that have occupied an apple orchard is yarrow infusion. It is prepared from the following components:

• Dry yarrow - 700 ... 800 grams;
• Water - 10 liters.

Before pouring yarrow with water, it must be boiled. Fill the grass with boiling water, let it brew for several days. After that, the infusion is heated to 60 ° C and grated laundry soap is added to it. You can use the product after complete cooling.

Use of ash

Not less than effective tool, according to many gardeners, is a solution of ash. This will require:

• Ash - 3 cups;
• Laundry soap - about 40 grams;
• Water - 10 liters.

Ashes and grated soap are introduced into warm water. Thoroughly mix everything until the soap is completely dissolved. After the solution is left for a day, two in order for it to infuse. Such a tool will be useful to apple trees not only when getting rid of aphids, but will also serve as a good foliar top dressing.

The use of industrial preparations

If there is no effect from the use folk remedies, industrial preparations will help get rid of aphids on apple trees:

• Nitrofen - used in early spring before bud break. Against aphids prepare a solution based on 10 liters of water 200 grams of the product. The drug is effective against insect eggs;
• Oleocuprite - as well as the previous remedy, they are used in early spring to destroy aphid eggs that have overwintered on apple trees. Spray the trees with a 4% solution of the drug;
• Spark - used both in early spring, before bud break, and after bloom. Can be used intermittently at intervals of 3 weeks. The product is completely safe for humans and animals. A solution is prepared at the rate of 1 tablet per 10 liter bucket of water. The working solution is enough to process 1..5 trees;
• Decis - just like the previous drug, it can be used against aphids not only on apple trees, but also on other fruit trees and shrubs. The agent dissolves in 10 liters of water. It is enough for one treatment of 1-2 trees, depending on their age;

When and how to process apple trees

An important point in the fight against aphids is the process of processing apple trees. All work to get rid of the pest is best to start in early spring. So you can destroy the overwintered eggs of insects.

FIGHT AGAINST APHIDS

1. And we fight with aphids like this: we spray the plants with a garlic solution as the foliage grows, when there are no aphids yet.
Prevention, so to speak.
2. Oh wow, this aphid! She makes the most devastating forays on my property. This harmful insect can completely lime cucumbers, zucchini and other crops.
Somewhere I read that the productivity of zucchini can almost double if you plant corn next to them. I followed the advice, so what? The crop of zucchini has not increased. But corn became a real breeding ground for aphids, and it had to be urgently uprooted and burned.
I want my bitter lesson to go to the future for other summer residents.
3. I want to advise summer residents to plant in trunk circles fruit trees, 15 centimeters from the trunk, any fragrant spicy greens: coriander, parsley, celery, dill, parsnips, etc. True, these crops will turn out frail. But the fruits on the lower branches will not be wormy.
Do not pull out the stems remaining after cutting. This grass is a great wintering ground for ladybugs. On the next year you will see that there are much more of these insects on your site. And aphids - less. After all, the ladybug eats it with great appetite.
4. Last spring, at the end of April, on the apple trees in my garden, I found bright red small, rolled up, leaves with a bumpy surface. Inside are larvae. It turned out to be an apple aphid.
It is not easy to deal with it, but it is possible. To do this, glue belts are applied to the stems of the tree and branches. But first, before the hatching of the larvae (April 20-25), I recommend clearing a place on the trunk with the blunt side of the knife and applying sticky tapes, for example, adhesive tape, with the sticky side on top, on the smooth bark. Cover them with paper on top so that they do not dry out longer. The effectiveness of such belts is high. For greater reliability, I advise gardeners to apply two or three adhesive barriers.
I advise you to remove the trapping belts after the end of the "move" of the larvae, somewhere around May 10-12. It is also not bad in early spring, before hatching the larvae, to clean the trunk of dead bark and whiten it.

5. Last year there were a lot of apple aphids. She did not bypass my site either.
I'm for fighting it malicious pest I use my proven method. It is simple and quite effective.
I take 100 g finely chopped onions or 200 g scales onion and fill it with 10 liters hot water. The solution is infused for four to five days. Then I filter it. I spray apple trees at intervals of five days, but no more than three times.
This solution is good not only for the apple tree, but also for other plants that are "persisted", for example, Colorado beetle, ticks, sawflies, leafworms.

6. I had a lot of aphids on the drain. I tried to kill pests with chemicals, nothing happened.
For some reason, one of the six trees did not touch the aphid. About the reason I did not immediately, but I guessed. Those plums that aphids loved, I fed mineral fertilizers. But this sixth one was not enough, and I fertilized the soil with ashes from the sauna stove.
Under melons and watermelons, I also bring in ashes, and I have not yet seen aphids on them.
Is the "culprit" here and there is ash?

7. C aphids on red currants can be fought like this: take 10 arrows of fresh garlic, 1/3 of a piece of laundry soap into a bucket of water (8-10 l), then soak it all for 20 days, and spray the plants with the resulting solution.

8. And I water everything with Intavir. 2-3 times per season both trees and bushes. No aphids, no weevil - grace! For four years now I have been saved only by them, and before that I tried all sorts of tinctures and decoctions - a lot of fuss, little sense.

9. Stepan, first of all, you need to destroy small ants (not to be confused with red forest ones). There are many recipes for this. Otherwise, you will not get rid of aphids on cucumbers. Try to use less chemicals for this, it is better to use herbal infusions or other organic mixtures. From herbs, you can take bitter wormwood, dandelion, burdock. Be sure to put a piece of laundry soap in the infusion so that the liquid from the plant is not washed off.

10. During the summer, aphids can give 10 generations. You can destroy them by spraying the plants with an emulsion of karbofos (30 g per 10 liters of water). Karate is very effective. In summer, tobacco infusion can be used against aphids (600 g of tobacco is poured into 10 liters of hot water). Insist for two to three days, filter and dilute another 10 liters of water with the addition of washing powder(2 tablespoons). Or use an infusion of tomato tops.
In order not to make unnecessary treatments against each of the pests, it is recommended to mix two preparations at once: karbofos 30 g and copper oxychloride 30 g (all this for 10 liters of water).

11. _ Mix 1 kg of ash and 8 liters of boiling water in a bucket. Close the lid and leave for two days. Then strain, add up to 10 liters and spray.
_ On a bucket warm water- 30 g fresh chopped hot pepper and 200 g tobacco dust. Leave for a day, then stir and strain. Add 1 tablespoon to strained infusion liquid soap and two or three tablespoons of ash. For 1 sq. m beds spend 1-2 liters of infusion.
_ In a bucket of hot water, dilute a glass of ash and a tablespoon of soap. Infuse for a day, strain and spray the plants.
_ Of the chemical means of protection against aphids, I use karbofos: they believe that it is the least harmful to health. Consumption: 1 tbsp. spoon on a bucket of water.
By spraying, I cover the entire plant, but more - the lower part of the leaves. An hour after treatment, when the soil dries, I lightly loosen the beds (to a depth of 1-2 cm). Then I sprinkle the soil with ashes.

12. In the fight against aphids use different means. Infusions and decoctions of onion peel, potato tops and so on. I've tried them all too. Some help a little, others not at all.
But somehow I read in one of the magazines that aphids are well destroyed thanks to this solution: half a pound plain soap for one bucket of melt water, add one glass of thick decoction of simple tobacco tobacco and a quarter glass of kerosene, previously mixed with half a glass of wood ash.
I tried the remedy in my garden, where blackcurrant aphids were greatly affected. The result is excellent.

13. The main carriers of aphids are black and red garden ants. For the winter, they transfer aphids to their warm "house", where they survive the winter cold. Therefore, the fight against the garden ant is the fight against aphids.
There is such effective method: set on a garden large forest ant. He also loves sweets, he can crawl on peony buds and raspberries. But this is entirely avoidable.
It is advisable to place a forest ant in a certain place in the garden. Can be used beneficial features these insects and without burdening yourself with the neighborhood. The forest worker ants brought into the garden build an anthill in three weeks ... And therefore there are fewer and fewer of them. Not sweet they have without their girlfriends.
This method of dealing with harmful insects is good because you settle forest friends at a time convenient for you. I personally took the pouch, went into the forest and took a scoop made of plastic bottle poured ants into it from an ant heap. The females are deep underground and you only take forest worker ants. This must be done as quickly as possible. And then tie the bag tightly. That's all. Bring your prey to the garden directly on the anthill, which must be destroyed immediately before. It is desirable that the landing force is not inferior in number to the hosts, otherwise the forces will be unequal.

How to deal with garden ants?

1. These are really such survivors, it is very difficult to get rid of them. We stumbled upon their colony last Sunday, and just poured a bucket of boiling water over their dwelling. Of course, both they and their larvae died here. But they have bred all over the site! Therefore, I would also hopefully wait for advice on how to deal with them with more effective methods.
2. To get rid of ants, you need to cover the anthills with hot ash
3. And as soon as I come to the dacha, the first thing I do is put a bucket of water on the stove and keep boiling water ready all day. As soon as I stumble upon a nest of ants (after all, they live in the ground, they don’t build anthills, which is why it’s so difficult to find them), I immediately pour boiling water on this place.
4. How much harm aphids bring to both gardeners and gardeners - there is no need to say. However, the misfortune of some always turns into a boon for others. The example with ants is a good confirmation of this. Not only is this garden "predator", which does not overwhelm more than one caterpillar, is simply in love with aphids, it artificially creates new "herds", transferring slender nondescript individuals to the most "delicious" areas. It is they who are young, not yet strong, shoots on plum, cherry.
There are many methods of struggle against aphids. But as soon as the plant perks up, gain strength, the "shepherds" immediately develop new lands. Ants are harder to deal with. Neither mechanical damage to nests, nor boiling water, nor chemicals give a 100% guarantee. However, they also have their own scare. Somehow, breaking out the arrows on winter garlic, I noticed that the ants bypass the green odorous pile. Without hesitation, he rubbed with spicy greens the stems of a rastun plum, the young growth of which was strewn with aphids. The ants were worth seeing. The lower ones, who were running along their tortuous path, stumbled upon a cultivated area, like mad, in a hurry to notify others of an unexpected obstacle. Groups climbed up the trunk, but when they reached the odorous belt in a panic, they turned around and ran away. Those that remained on the tree behaved similarly. However, it was easier for them. Having darted along the trunk and branches, they simply jumped down.
Now, as soon as the garlic begins to shoot, I either simply rub the trunks with it, or make thin flagella from the arrows and tie them around the trunk at a height of 20-30 cm from the ground. For ants, this is an insurmountable barrier.
5. The previously published methods for the destruction of ants do not solve the problem as a whole, because undestroyed underground anthills will definitely remain, each of which is able to populate the entire site. And how to pour boiling water, for example, an anthill under the root of a strawberry? Poison? So it will bear fruit...
It remains to scare.
Maybe, who knows the plants that are unpleasant for ants? They wrote about garlic, thank you, I’ll definitely try it, but you can rub or tie the stem of a young apple tree with a bunch of arrows, but the same strawberries?
What other plants and substances repel ants?
6. Fill their minks with any insecticide, from decis to karate. Their concentration should be greater than when spraying trees. You can also use plain boiling water instead of chemicals. Some summer residents even use varnish in the fight against ants, but this is dangerous both for plants and for the person himself. After all, varnish is the strongest poison, and we eat everything that grows in the ground.
7. I also lay out garlic cloves (preferably chopped) on ant paths or next to their minks, or garlic arrows. It can be seen that the ants do not like this smell and disappear. Even at the minks I arrange bottles with not large quantity sugar syrup. When the ants get inside the bottle, I scald them with boiling water.
You can get rid of these insects with the help of sunflower oil- water their nests.
8. I invented a simple and reliable way ant control. He has a 100% guarantee!
I take a "bald" tire from a passenger car, cut it in half in a circle. You get two rings. I put them under the trees in a pre-dug groove, pour water inside, and the issue is resolved. None of the crawlers will overcome this barrier: they are not swimmers.
If the tree or shrub is larger, I cut the ring across, lay it down, and cover the cut with plasticine.
The water in the rings serves as a drinking bowl for wasps, bees and small birds, which is what a garden needs. And if you add coniferous concentrate to it, then its smell will scare away harmful insects. But one ring I always leave with clean water- for birds and bees. And one more interesting nuance: if 35 g per 10 liters of water repels insects, then 75 kills their masonry.
9. http://www.good.vol.ru/agro/vrediteli/17.html

Well, it's for starters...
Pouring decis into minks is sadism!!! and mockery of the earth! Fight aphids! The ants will have nothing to eat and they will start fighting more actively on your side! killing harmful insects...
Ants are your allies! The strawberries that grew on the anthill are the largest (if I have time to pick before them ;-), they loosen the soil (aerate).
10. Ants tortured me. If I leave in country house some of the products come "to the feast" from all the cracks.
Once I accidentally dropped a boiled beef bone on the floor and forgot to put it away. After some time I returned to the house, I looked - the ants climb onto the bone, into its pores. I waited for more of them to gather, and then lowered the bone into a barrel of water. Since then, I have been catching ants in such a simple way: I put an empty jar of jam or canned food on the floor. Helps.
11. Gentlemen, what car tires and the paths are out of the question if these same garden ants sit on my cucumber bed and breed their ants at an astronomical speed!? My wife dug up the ground on this garden bed on Saturday - and almost fainted: there, firstly, yellowed ant eggs (or rather pupae?), already thickened to a huge size, that is, they were already ready to break through and release a new army of ants. And secondly, five centimeters away - deposits of freshly laid, not yet grown, small eggs. In a word, the new party is ready to be sent to life. What garlic, what molasses?
Here only fiery ash and boiling water will help!
True, out of anger, I poured more tobacco into the boiling water, and then my wife collected celandine, arrows of garlic from all the surroundings, brewed it - and processed a new pile with her potion. Whether it helps or not, I don't know yet. I'll check.
12. You can loosen the nest, sprinkle with fluffy lime or tobacco dust. There is also such folk way- water the nests with urine. Fighting ants is difficult, but necessary. Otherwise, aphids will appear on the site, because it is the nurse of ants. They cherish and protect her. They take them "for storage" to their nests up to 1.5 m deep, so that in the spring they again have a dairy cow.
But it turns out that there is a very effective biological method of dealing with annoying insects.
It is enough to bring from the forest and settle in the garden (they are easily "domesticated") red large ants rufa formica - females that have wings during the resettlement period - and black ants themselves will leave your territory.
13. In general, if we are talking about those very ants ... which are in the ground ... in greenhouses ... SODA! And also excuse me ... the very yellow water that hits the head. They can’t stand it. And it’s easy to use!
14. Red big ants calmly side by side with black ones, and no one touches each other. But urine really helps, unlike other proven remedies. Where they go, I have not yet found out, but oddly enough they disappear and do not return.
Soon there will not be a single anthill left in the country! (but you have to spend a lot on beer
15. With ants on my site, I fought for a long time and unsuccessfully. But that year, a neighbor shared with me one remedy by which he got rid of annoying guests.
The recipe for the "drug" turned out to be quite simple. I collected 10 liters of water in a container, poured two glasses of vegetable oil into it, shampoo (of course, the cheapest one) and vinegar (you can even have a whole bottle). Mixed well.
Then, in the center of the cluster of ants, he pierced a hole with a peg and sprayed an "explosive mixture" into it with a sprayer. Closed this place with a film for three days. The ants clearly didn’t like the treat, and now I don’t even remember about them.
By the way, if you don’t have too many ants in your dacha, for example, only under currant bushes, put stems of bitter wormwood there. The result should please you.

Subject: Aphids on currants and cherries
1. A pack of red pepper and a tablespoon ammonia dissolve in 2.5 of water.
Leave for 4 hours.
Spray the infected shoots abundantly with the resulting solution.
It helps a lot. At the same time, it is recommended to spray nearby anthills, as the main carriers of aphids.
2. While there were no berries, I watered with various chemical poisons. Well, now ... They say, you can pour something like a tincture of hot red pepper on a soapy solution. The point is that the aphids should not eat the leaves...
I also heard this advice: closer to the evening, heavily water / sprinkle the currant bush with ice water. The aphids should fall to the ground. The next thing is that the aphids need food, and it dies of cold (numbness from icy water) and hunger (few people survive until morning without food) ...

A story about how to deal with aphids

"How to deal with aphids?" - this question, judging by the publications, is of concern to many owners of personal plots today. Summer residents complain that hordes small insects suck juices from apples, cucumbers, beans, cabbages and other crops, endangering plant life and the possibility of harvesting. "Aphids are dangerous not only because they damage leaves and ovaries, but also because they are a carrier of viral and bacterial diseases," experts say and offer the following measures to combat aphids. First, spraying is very useful. horticultural crops affected by aphids, herbal infusions and decoctions. To the number enough effective drugs include: infusions of garlic, dandelion leaves, horseradish roots, tops of tomatoes and potatoes, decoctions of marigolds, tansy, wormwood, onion peel. You can find out how the above infusions and decoctions are prepared by looking at any "horticultural" reference publication. I will give a recipe for perhaps the most popular and effective decoction - onion peel. The decoction is prepared as follows: 400 gr. husks are poured with 10 liters of boiling water, tightly closed and insisted for a day or two. Before spraying the plants, laundry soap diluted in water (40 g per 1 bucket of the preparation) is added to the solution. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days. You can pour onion peel not with boiling water, but slightly warm or cold water. In this mixture, before infusion, you can add 1 tablespoon of dry mustard. Before processing the crops, laundry soap is again added to the infusion. By the way, some experts believe that aphids, if there are not very many of them, can be dealt with by washing the plants only with soapy water. And sometimes, they say, even a strong jet of water from a hose is enough to wash the insects off the leaves. Well, if aphids have already occupied the plants "seriously and for a long time", and do not want to leave their "familiar places", you may have to use chemicals, such as, for example, Fury, Decis, Inta-vir. Protect horticultural crops you can get rid of aphids by planting plants on the site that repel insects with their smell. These include nasturtium, garlic, chives, marigold, mustard, fennel, coriander, peppermint, basil. And the last thing: some experts say that you can scare away aphids with the help of ... aluminum foil spread around plants: the light reflected by the foil confuses insects, aphids lose their orientation and do not fall on plants.

http://www.household.su/content/borba-s-tlei
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In the fight against these pests, it is recommended to use tobacco decoction: 100 g of tobacco dust is boiled for an hour in one liter of water. After cooling, the solution is filtered, 300-350 g of the broth is diluted in 10 liters of water and the plants are carefully sprayed so that the solution gets on the underside of the leaves. For greater efficiency, spraying is repeated several times within 2-3 days.
The main thing is not to waste time! It is very important to determine the period of the first spraying, which must be carried out upon detection of single winged individuals - the so-called “settler” females. Late spraying, carried out already with the massive colonization of aphids and the folding of the affected leaves, does not give a high effect. Usually winged individuals appear before the flowering of plants. At this time, spraying should be carried out.
A one-time spraying does not destroy aphids; pests adapt if treated with the same solution. Therefore, fighting aphids, change the composition of the solutions.
Experts recommend:
1. Pour 1 kg of wood ash into a bucket and pour 8 liters of boiling water; close the bucket with a lid, leave for two days, then strain, add up to 10 liters and start spraying.
2. Fresh or dried hot peppers (500 g) are cut and poured into 10 liters of water and boiled in a sealed container. They insist for two days, after which the solution is filtered, bottled and stored in a dark, cool place. When it is necessary to sprinkle, take 125 ml of pepper concentrate and 40 g of grated soap, diluted in 10 liters of water.
3. For 10 liters of hot (about 60 ° C) water, take 30 g of fresh chopped hot pepper and 200 g of tobacco dust, insist for a day, then stir well and filter. 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and 2-3 tablespoons of wood ash are added to the filtered solution. Consumption of infusion - 1-2 liters per 1 sq.m.
4. Infusion of wood ash and soap: 1 glass of wood ash is poured into 10 liters of hot water, 1 tablespoon of soap is added, left for a day, then the plants are filtered and treated.
5. Finely chop 1 kg of horse sorrel roots, pour 10 liters of warm water. Let it brew for 3-4 hours. Strain, sprinkle.

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I have always used this one in the past. But lately, aphids have proven so resistant to folk recipes, which had to be applied more modern ways fight. My neighbor and I managed to do a real study of popular drugs. The conclusion is this: the Fas tool works best of all. After treatment in all areas, the aphid disappeared completely, completely, while other preparations cannot boast of such a result. And personally, I am most attracted by the fact that Fas completely decomposes in the soil in 3-4 weeks.

I fertilize all vegetables with infusion of herbs (I fill 1/3 of the container different grass and fill to the top with water for 10-14 days). Then the infusion is half diluted with water and watered under the root. And if you pour cucumber leaves with this infusion (starting with 2-3 leaves), then there are no aphids on them, although there were plenty of ants under some bushes and my cucumbers creep along the ground.

For 10 liters of water, half a bucket of chamomile and dandelions, infuse solution for 1 day in a dark place. The next day: throw the greens into the compost heap, add soap to the resulting infusion. In the afternoon in hot weather, spray the reverse sides of the leaves (where aphids accumulate). Get rid of weeds, aphids and ants grazing aphids. On a cherry full of aphids, I had to spray twice with an interval of a week - the aphid disappeared completely. I still struggle with aphids on the apple tree, I add to onion solution helps, but weakly.

Well, aphids are destroyed by Coca-Cola.

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Such a small aphid

You can hear from summer residents: “I won’t plant cabbage this year - the aphid overcomes it so much that no struggle helps.”
Green apple aphid (on cabbage it has a pink tint) damages mainly apple, pear and a number of other crops. During their flowering, the second generation of this pest is already developing: winged individuals fly to other trees and quickly settle around the site. Aphids can produce up to 17 generations per season.

Stone fruit crops are harmed by plum aphids. It hibernates near the buds and in cracks in the bark of the shoots. The larvae appear during the opening of the leaves.

Cherry aphid harms cherries and cherries. Leaves damaged by insects turn black and dry. This aphid (it is black) can also pass to the fruits. Winters on shoots and spinning tops. Therefore, in early spring, tops must be cut and burned.

Rose aphids can be seen on roses and rose hips. Insects suck the juice from the tissues, causing the plants to weaken, the leaves and shoots to curl.

The cabbage aphid feeds on the juice of the leaves, so the leaves are deformed and take the shape of a dome. Especially aggressive in warm and hot weather.

Adult melon aphids overwinter on the roots of weeds: plantain, speedwell, shepherd's purse, thistle, milkweed. An active lifestyle begins at an air temperature of 12°C. Entire colonies settle on the lower surfaces of leaves, shoots, flowers and ovaries. Switch to vegetables.

What are the countermeasures? The most effective way is to use Iskra (1 tablet per 10 liters of water).

Folk remedies can also be used: for 10 liters of water, take a glass of wood ash and tobacco dust or shag and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and mustard. All pour 2-3 liters of hot water and stir well. A day later, water is added to 10 liters, the solution is filtered and all plants are sprayed with it, especially from the underside, where aphids mainly accumulate. This treatment must be repeated after 7-9 days.

If there are few aphids, then they are sprayed with this composition: 2 cups of wood ash and 1 tablespoon of soap per 10 liters of water.

With a large number of aphids, the beds are treated with a solution of "Citkor" (1.5 ml per 10 liters of water). Plants are processed in the afternoon, in the late afternoon, the treated beds are covered with a film for two hours

http://www.stapravda.ru/ take 3-4 hours. Strain, sprinkle.
6. Good result gives spraying infusion of stepsons of tomatoes.

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In the past season, many plantings were literally stuck with aphids. Plums, red currants, roses were especially affected. According to forecasts, the invasion of this pest will repeat next season. Therefore, it is worth stocking up in advance with another remedy - dried peels of tangerines and oranges, which are now sold everywhere. Here is a recipe for their use: a half-liter jar of dried crushed crusts is soaked for a day in a liter of water, then boiled for 10 minutes, filtered, poured into a bucket of water and immediately sprayed with this extract on the affected twigs and leaves.
I have always used this one in the past. But recently, the aphid has turned out to be so resistant to folk recipes that more modern methods of control had to be used. My neighbor and I managed to do a real study of popular drugs. The conclusion is this: the tool works best

The main signs of the appearance of aphids in apple orchards are:

• sticky coating on foliage (pad);
• foliage gradually curls inward;
• there are many ants around the apple tree;
• large clusters of aphids are easy to spot visually.

Aphid control methods

Available in specialized stores big choice chemicals, which effectively help in the fight against aphids. But there are other methods of struggle:

• physical;
• biological;
• folk.

Chemical agents against aphids on an apple tree

The composition of these preparations includes toxic substances that effectively destroy almost all garden and garden pests. However, they are recommended to be used with extreme caution, since such toxic substances accumulate in fruits - and the use of such a crop can be dangerous to human health. Therefore, they should be used for spraying apple trees during the ripening period of the crop only when other means have not helped.

When processing apple trees, the following rules should be observed:

• do not spray fruit trees during flowering and during fruit ripening, so that toxic substances do not accumulate in them;
• spraying should be done in dry calm weather, when the dew has dried up;
• when carrying out this procedure, personal protective equipment should be worn so that splashes of chemicals do not fall on the skin or mucous membranes of the eyes;
• If substances come into contact with the skin or eyes, rinse them immediately with running water.

The most popular means of combating aphids on apple trees among gardeners are the following drugs:

Kinmix- an insecticide, which includes the main active ingredient beta-cypermethrin (from the group of pyrethroids, produced artificially), It affects both the adult aphid and its offspring, causing paralysis, followed by lethal outcome. Doesn't have negative influence on the environment.

fury- the latest generation insecticide, based on zeta-cypermethrin. The drug belongs to the moderately hazardous type of chemical preparations. The protective effect after treatment lasts for 12-15 days.

Physical destruction

Physical methods are usually used in greenhouses or greenhouses, since the main principle of their effect on aphids is the use of vibration temperature regime.

Usually pests are collected manually - using a cloth or swabs dipped in soapy water. It is also necessary to collect damaged foliage and fruits and immediately burn them so that insects do not move from damaged parts of trees to healthy ones.

Biological methods of removing aphids

Such methods are quite laborious, since at the same time their biological enemies - birds, other insects - are used to control pests. Created in the garden special conditions in order for these biological enemies of aphids to settle on the site or often visit there. You can build a birdhouse or hang a bird feeder.

There are many folk remedies aimed at destroying aphids on the foliage of fruit trees, shrubs and vegetable crops. Basically, these are infusions and decoctions on various herbs that are quite effective in combating aphids, and they also do not negatively affect the quality of the subsequently harvested crop and do not harm either plants or soil.

soap solution

Infusion of tomato leaves

Finely chop the tomato leaves. For 1 cup of chopped leaves, 1 cup of water is taken. The mixture is left to infuse for 8 to 10 hours. After that, you can treat the foliage affected by aphids with infusion. Usually, not only the upper, but also the underside of the leaves are processed.

Garlic infusion

5-6 garlic cloves finely chopped, soaked in 100g. water and leave to infuse for 22-24 hours. Then, a teaspoon of soap and 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil are added to the resulting mixture. After that, the resulting infusion is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and the damaged leaves and shoots of apple trees are treated.

Ash infusion

The ash is mixed with boiling water in a ratio of 1:8 and infused for at least 48 hours. Then the mixture is filtered, the resulting liquid is diluted with water up to 10 liters and the infected tree aphids are treated.

Basic preventive measures

The reasons for the appearance of aphids on the site can be very diverse. However, some of them can still be prevented. So, you should carefully examine the seedlings of apple trees before planting in open ground- aphids can "hide" in their foliage.

One more preventive measure- the constant destruction of anthills on the site, since it is these insects that often bring aphids into the garden and garden.

And do not forget about such assistants to gardeners in the fight against pests, like birds and many beneficial insects. They should be attracted to the site so that they help in the fight against aphids and other "harmful" bugs.

How to deal with aphids on an apple tree? In most cases, aphids attack fruit trees. To protect the crop from this dangerous and prolific insect, you need to learn how to deal with it in time. From early spring to late autumn, insects colonies besiege trees and spoil them. There are many effective methods for dealing with aphids on an apple tree, more detailed information in the article.

1. Aphids usually appear on apple trees that are planted on soils that have a very low amount of phosphorus, magnesium and boron, but a large amount of organic matter. Many gardeners want to enrich the soil by feeding it with plenty of fertilizer. Immoderate feeding is not quite the right decision.
2. It is quite enough to add superphosphate with borax to the ground, fertilize the leaf and cut the branches with aphids. With a numerous attack of aphids, these methods are not limited.
3. Here you should find the main reason for the appearance of harmful insects, and ants are most often such a reason. Ants ingest sweet apple juice, thereby increasing the appearance of aphids.

Primarily, the fight against aphids begins with the extermination of ants. For this, special adhesive strips are often used on the trunk of an apple tree. The strips are impregnated with a special solution consisting of sweet substances. The ants stick to the tape and cannot move on the tree. If this method does not help, then special solutions with poisons are used.

Synthetic poisons are also used to get rid of aphids. They should be used carefully, protecting the eyes and respiratory organs.

How to deal with aphids depending on the month

Depending on the summer month, you need to deal with aphids in the following ways:

1. June. At the beginning of summer, it is recommended to use anabazine sulfate or other similar preparations. The composition acts immediately and retains the effect for a long time. In mid-June, you can apply a solution: hot pepper 50 g brewed in 10 liters of boiled water. The final stage in the first month is to treat the trunks and branches with a solution of Thiacloprid. This method will help to cope with ants and aphids.
2. July. If measures for the prevention and control of insects are not carried out in June, then it is imperative to start fighting the pest. Before spraying apple trees, you need to understand: if the garden is young and the trees are small, then you can neutralize them by cutting off the branches of the current year. If the garden consists of mature trees, then you will have to use chemicals and poisons: Dimethoate, Chlorpyrifos.
3. August. At the end of summer, the trees are covered with apple fruits. It is not recommended to process apple trees during this period. If there are a lot of aphids, then Imidacloprid can be used. It is advisable to fertilize the soil near apple trees in a complex - with a decoction of superphosphate: boil 200g granules in 1 liter of water.

Nuances and subtleties of aphid processing

On apple trees there are gray and red-headed varieties of aphids. These insects can be found by the following features:

• the leaves of the tree begin to curl and blacken;
• a reddish swelling appears on the foliage;
• the leaves become sticky.

Aphids live on the inside of foliage or in flower buds.

Folk methods

There are many ways to get rid of pests without using chemicals. You can cook them at home using improvised environmentally friendly products.

Interesting: Aphids do not attack trees that are fed with ash, due to the rich content of calcium and phosphorus. To feed with a solution, you need to take 10 liters of water, 2 cups of ash and 50 g of laundry soap. Let the mixture brew, spray it on the tree from the back of the leaves.

Options for getting rid of aphids:

• Celandine. Celandine leaves 1 kg pour 3 liters of boiled water, let it brew and add another 7 liters of boiling water. Leave for 48 hours, then strain and spray on trees;
• Garlic. Rub 5 cloves of garlic and soak in 100 ml of water, let it brew for a day. Add 1 tsp. liquid or household was also 2 tsp. sunflower oil. Mix the mixture thoroughly and add to 5 liters of water, treat the trees.

Post-flowering treatment

The period can be divided:

• immediately after flowering;
• 21 days after treatment.

First you need to treat the apple tree with zinc sulfate, as well as other preparations that include sulfur and copper. Then prepare a tincture of shag or tobacco: soak 0.4 kg of tobacco per 10 liters of water for a day, add 40 g of laundry soap and another 20 liters of water. Spray the trees with the resulting composition.

The second time the trees need to be processed after 14-21 days with the following means:

• "Benzosphate" - great for fighting aphids and ants at the same time. However, it does not harm the bees. Preparation process: add 60-70 g of solution to 10 liters of water. Can be stored for 2 weeks;
• "Karbofos" - helps to get rid of insects, but is also dangerous for bees. Preparation process: add 60 g of the composition to 10 liters of water.

conservative methods

Before deciding to irrigate an apple tree with poisons, you can apply the following methods:

• agrotechnical;
• physical;
• with the help of entomophages.

spider aphid

You can get rid of spider aphids with tobacco tincture. Also used: Verticillin. A solution of 0.5 liters should be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Processing can be carried out at t air above 24C.

Ash solution can be used with laundry soap. Nettle tincture helps a lot: pour 1 kg of leaves with 5 liters of warm water and let it brew for a day.

Green aphid protection measures

Green aphids select young apple trees and suck out all the juices from apples, branches and leaves. It can be identified by the black coating on the trunk. More effective from this type of aphid is the drug "Oleocuprit". It has acaricidal, fungicidal, insecticidal action.

If there are ants on the apple tree

If ants are wound up on the apple tree, then it will develop more slowly due to damage to the root system. Ants contribute to the appearance of aphids. During the summer, you need to provide the tree with good watering and treat it in September with drugs of your choice: Bargezin, Thunder, Ant.

It is also recommended to spray the tree in early spring during the swelling of the buds. iron vitriol or Bordeaux mixture. When the first leaves appear, you can destroy the aphid eggs with the help of drugs: Nitrofen and Oleocuprit.

What is the harmful phase in aphids

Toy eggs tolerate frost well, remaining on the bark of an apple tree. With the beginning of spring, the females that have appeared organize a real colony and begin to attack the tree. Up to forty larvae appear in one female at a time. The first insects begin to eat the tree from the bottom up. The emerging females have wings and can fly from branch to branch. The most mass reproduction of insects is observed in September.

Insect control during flowering

The flowering period is the most beautiful moment of spring. From the apple tree comes a great aroma. However, this is one of the periods of attack of the aphid apple tree. Insects begin to cover the leaves and flowers with bloom. Natural way deal with aphids only ladybugs. However, so many "saviors" may not be found. Therefore, it is recommended to spray the apple tree with Karbofos or tobacco soap solution.

Protection of seedlings from aphids

Young trees are a real temptation for harmful insects. Chemical treatment is not safe for a still very fragile tree. You can quite cope with aphids by hand. It is also recommended to add superphosphate under the root, and spray a strong infusion of tobacco mixed with laundry soap on the leaves.

Prevention measures

When dealing with aphids, you need to approach the issue comprehensively, as well as follow the recommendations:

• inspect seedlings after purchase for the presence of insects;
• you need to regularly water the apple tree and fertilize in time, mulch the soil;
• try not to overload the tree with nitrogen and organic fertilizers;

before winter, try to destroy all aphid larvae. To do this, you can clean the bark of a tree.

What is your method of dealing with aphids? We are waiting for your answers.

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