The toilet has been successfully installed and connected to the sewer system. What to do next?

Of course, install the drainage mechanism! The correct operation of the drain system as a whole directly depends on how competently and efficiently the drain fittings are installed and adjusted.

By its design, the valve is a device, the main function of which is to ensure the timely and correct filling of the tank with water after draining.

By reading the information below, you will learn about existing varieties drain mechanisms and the principles of their operation, the installation procedure and methods for eliminating typical malfunctions.

Varieties and principle of operation of drain fittings

Most often in residential buildings and apartments are equipped with cisterns equipped with a push-button flush mechanism. This design has established itself as a solid, high quality and reliable system. The button is located on the side or in the center of the bowl of the tank. The design is traditionally used in conjunction with closed tanks.

Along with this, original systems equipped with levers and chains are becoming more and more popular - fashion is back. This option is well suited for use in combination with a hanging cistern.

The trigger itself can be manual (the user independently sets the optimal volume of drained water, holding the button pressed for a certain time) or automatic.

To "start" the tank, you must press the release button. In the case of mechanical drain fittings, the principle of operation is such that the water continues to flow as long as the user keeps the button pressed. V automatic systems the volume of drained water is set initially.

Having learned to navigate the features of the structural design and the principles of operation of the drain fittings, you can repair or replace it on your own.

The first main element of the system is the filling valve.- this device is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank. The float is responsible for indicating the amount of water - the product is connected to the filling valve by means of a brass rod.

In older models of drain fittings, the valve was installed on the side, and the float was located horizontally. V modern models the principle of operation remains traditional, but the float is now in an upright position and the filling valve is located at the bottom of the bowl.

The second main element is the drain and overflow mechanism. The modern drainage system has the form of plastic fittings, complete with push buttons. The drain is connected to the overflow and set devices.

To activate the drain device, you must press the trigger of the drain system. To prevent excess water from pouring out of the tank, the drain mechanism is connected to the overflow device. This ensures efficient drainage of excess water into the sewer system.

An important function in such a system is performed by a float valve. It is connected to a float that controls the water level. If the float breaks, the reservoir starts to leak.

Drainage mechanisms also differ in accordance with the characteristics of the installation site.

So, in fused construction the drain is "started" by pressing the release mechanism. Under the influence of a special thrust, the drain valve opens. At the same time, the drain to the overflow is closed. Water continues to flow exactly as long as the user holds the release button.

As the amount of water in the tank decreases, the drain valve closes, as a result of which the overflow outlet is closed. In parallel with this, the float valve is opened.

Vertical valve moves to its original position, releasing the trigger mechanism. Closes in parallel drainer... A decrease in the amount of water in the tank leads to a lowering of the float, which ensures the opening of the float valve.

The drain bowl is filled through the tap. The container stops filling when the water reaches a certain level. The float goes back, the drain is closed off by the float.

The principle of the wall tank slightly different. Here, the main drainage element is a siphon - a soft corrugated tube.

The trigger is usually equipped with a metal lever. Pressing the lever opens the end of the corrugation, which opens the outlet for water.

The procedure is as follows:

• the user presses the water release lever - the siphon opens;
• water flows into the siphon hole;
• as the amount of water decreases, the float is lowered, which leads to the opening of the float valve;
• through the said valve, the tank container is filled with water;
• water is poured before the float rises;
• after the float rises, the valve closes, thereby eliminating the risk of overfilling the tank.

Methods for installing and replacing drain fittings

The installation of the drainage mechanism is violated after the installation of the toilet is completed and its connection to the sewer system.

The work is carried out in several stages.

The first stage is the installation of fittings in the tank. Follow the steps below:

• install a rubber gasket on the drain mechanism;
• place the mechanism in the tank and fix it with the nut from the kit;
• put the washers and gaskets from the kit onto the mounting bolts;
• place the bolts in the holes;
• put on a washer from the back side and tighten the nut;
• put the rubber ring on the nut;
• coat the joints with a sealant.

Helpful advice! Carefully examine the condition of all structural elements. Treat suspicious areas with sealant - this will eliminate the risk of further leaks.

The second stage is the installation of the tank. Do the following:

• place the cistern on the toilet seat. Fix with nuts;
• mount and fix the filling mechanism;
• plug the sleeve off water pipe;
• install the tank lid;
• screw on the drain button.

Helpful advice! At the stage of putting on the hose of the water pipe, refrain from additional winding of anything on the thread of the connected mechanism. Make sure that there are no distortions, otherwise the thread may break off, and the part may deteriorate.

Thus, the installation of the tank flush mechanism is not a super-complicated undertaking. Anyway, detailed instructions with illustrated images will come with fittings - be sure to check the manufacturer's recommendations.

In some situations, the drainage mechanism requires additional customization and adjustments. To adjust the height of the drain valve, do the following:

• disconnect the draft from the overflow pipe;
• squeeze the glass lock;
• move the stand up or down.

To adjust the water level in the cistern, do the following:

• lower or raise the glass along the guide. Important! There must be at least 4.5 cm of free space between the upper edge of the toilet cistern and the top of the glass;
• fit an overflow pipe 2 cm above the maximum water level. At the same time, the pipe should be located 7 cm below the upper level of the rack.

To set a low flush, move the low flush float up or down in relation to the overflow tube. To set full flush, move the flap in the desired direction in relation to the glass.

Important note! When adjusting the drain mechanism for low or full flush, it should be understood that changing the position of the damper or float down will lead to an increase in water flow during flushing.

Identification and elimination of simple breakdowns

Even if a high-quality drainage mechanism is installed correctly, it may fail over time. You are encouraged to familiarize yourself with the information on the most common faults and recommendations for solving them yourself.

Complex breakdowns

Among the more complex breakdowns in comparison with previous malfunctions, one point can be distinguished - a leak in the drain tank. In this case, firstly, you need to adjust the float valve by changing the float thrust.

To decrease or increase the water level, lower or raise the float. Secondly, you need to adjust the tap directly. The necessary recommendations were given earlier.

Now you know how the toilet flush mechanism works, and you can install the necessary fittings on your own, significantly saving on the services of third-party plumbers and doing everything as efficiently as possible, because each stage of the work will be controlled by you personally.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

Plumbing equipment is subject to intense operational stress and often fails. When the toilet cistern is constantly leaking, it brings big losses due to excessive consumption of water. It is impractical to call the masters due to the failure of the device, since the repair for the most part consists in setting up the tank mechanism. But in order to understand how to fix a toilet, you first need to know how it works. Let's figure out how to independently repair a toilet cistern with a button.

Toilet device

The toilet bowl includes the following elements:

1. Toilet bowl connected to sewer pipe sealed cuff.
2. Cistern with fittings for filling and draining with water.

The water supply hose is connected to the tank. It can be connected from the side or from below, depending on the design. The bowl and cistern are usually connected to each other using bolts and seals.

Hardware components:

• a pull rod trigger with a drain button;
• a shut-off device (inlet valve) connected to the float;
• rubber sealed gaskets.

How does a toilet with a button work?

A toilet cistern with a button is a water seal that is filled with a portion of water that is fed into the bowl when the shutter is opened. The flush is controlled by a button that must be pressed. At the same time, the valve opens, and water, under the influence of its own weight, flows down, washing the bowl. After emptying the tank, the inlet shut-off valve opens, the tank is filled with the next portion to a certain level, regulated by a float. The mechanism is accessible by opening the top lid of the tank.

Preparing for repair

Before you fix the toilet cistern, you need to open it. It can only be accessed from above if the cover is removed. In many modifications, it is attached with a ring around the button. This ring must be pressed and rotated counterclockwise. After long-term operation the ring may not turn. Then a few drops of oil are applied to the attachment site. After the ring turns, unscrew it, and then release the button from plastic clothespins and remove the cover.

DIY repair methods for the tank mechanism

The entire drainage valve mechanism is visible through the upper opening in the tank. It may have the following faults:

1. The tank is constantly leaking.
2. There is no water pressure at the inlet.
3. Uncontrolled drain mechanism.

The reasons for these malfunctions may be different, and the way in which the toilet cistern will be repaired depends on them.

• The plug (pear) does not fit snugly against the drain hole. To avoid this, you should purchase high quality plumbing. The repair can be checked by pressing the stem down with a little force. If there is no water flow, the plug can be slightly weighted with additional weight or the stem can be leveled. You also need to periodically clean the seal from rust and salts, due to which the tightness is broken, and the liquid constantly flows into the bowl.
• The regulator does not shut off the water supply. At the same time, the tank will never overflow, thanks to the presence of an overflow pipe. The serviceability of each element of the device is checked: float, inlet valve, fasteners, rod. The failed part is replaced or the float mount is simply tightened.
• Leakage from the tank into the room. It may have a crack or the seal of the gaskets is broken. Special attention pay attention to the quality of the connection between the current tank and the bowl. It needs to be tightened, and if this does not help, the rubber gasket changes. Another cause of leakage may be wear of the cuff in the junction of the bowl drain with the sewer pipe. The seal is changed to a new one, after cleaning the connection from contamination and treating the surfaces with a sealant.
• Weak head through the inlet valve. This usually happens if it becomes clogged. This can be prevented by cleaning or installing a filter in front of it.

Replacing the intake valve

Before you repair the toilet, turn off the water supply tap. It connects to the pipeline from the riser. After that, the flexible hose is unscrewed from the intake mechanism. It can be easily removed if the fastener is loosened. Instead, a new or refurbished one is installed. Assembly is carried out upside-down. The plastic thread does not require a seal, and a fluoroplastic tape is wound onto the brass thread.

Replacing the drain valve

The main cause is wear of the O-ring under the valve. To replace it, you need to remove the hardware and install a new gasket. After that, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

The water release button should always be used carefully and pressed without sudden force.

Adjusting the water level in the tank

The water level can be easily adjusted with your own hands. For this, the float is installed in a certain position.

The optimal level is considered to be when the water supply to the container has stopped, and a few centimeters are left to its upper edge.

The adjustment method depends on the valve design. The easiest is to bend a metal bar. If the float moves along a horizontal plastic guide, it is fixed by means of fastening elements in a certain position. In a vertical arrangement, it is moved with an adjusting screw.

The overflow tube must not be forgotten when choosing the fill level. Its upper edge should be a couple of centimeters above the water level in the filled container. If it is located lower, water will constantly flow into the bowl through the overflow.

Tank troubleshooting

The tank may leak water due to a crack in it. The same goes for the bowl. In this case, the question of how to repair the cistern or bowl is not worth it: the entire toilet is usually replaced. A small crack in the tops of the stoneware can be repaired. So that it does not spread further, and does not increase the seepage of water, it is drilled at the ends and processed along the entire length with sandpaper. The work is done neatly.

The surface is degreased and the gap is filled with epoxy. After hardening, the seam is grinded.

Repair of the built-in tank (with installation)

It is more difficult to get to the mechanism of the tank installed behind the false wall. First of all, you should purchase a device with high reliability, which rarely requires repair. There should be inspection hatches in the wall through which you can get to the tank and replace the gaskets if the tightness is broken. Drain fittings cannot be repaired with their own hands due to the complexity of the design.

A filter is installed in front of the hidden cistern rough cleaning, which traps solid particles, due to which leakage occurs in most cases.

How to choose the right plumbing?

When choosing a toilet, attention is paid to the following.

• Mounting method: monoblocks, compact and separate toilets. The choice is made taking into account the size of the room, the design and the laboriousness of servicing the tank.
• Fittings. Most of the parts with low strength and reliability are made of plastic.
• Availability positive feedback, a well-known manufacturer, availability of a guarantee and a certificate.

Inalienable attributes comfortable stay are the blessings of civilization familiar to humans, such as ergonomic furniture, stable water supply, properly planned lighting and plumbing that works without interruption. The correct operation of all of the above equipment is taken for granted, and a breakdown almost always comes as a surprise, bringing a lot of trouble. Most often, the object of increased attention of homeowners is plumbing, and in order to ensure its smooth functioning, it is necessary to take care of its correct installation in advance, which implies a strong connection of pipes and hoses, the serviceability of fasteners and gaskets. If the plumbing is used for a long period of time, necessary condition her smooth operation are preventive examinations that will make it possible to timely identify wear of the fittings due to inadequate water quality. Timely maintenance of plumbing equipment will prevent flooding of your home and the homes of your neighbors. In the event of a breakdown of plumbing equipment, the best way out there will be a call to a plumber who will eliminate the breakdown as quickly and efficiently as possible. If you do not have the opportunity to call the master, you can carry out DIY repair toilet flush cistern, the technology of which is not difficult.

The principle of the toilet: basic provisions

To understand the breakdown and find the most optimal way to eliminate it, it is necessary to study the theoretical foundations of the plumbing equipment and understand how the water in the toilet is drained. Regardless of the design features of the toilet, any model is characterized by the presence of two main parts - a bowl located on the floor or fixed to the wall, and a water tank located on top. It is this container that is the flush tank. The functioning of the water drain is based on the principle of "water seal", which means that water is flushed into the drain under the action of gravity when a button (lever) is pressed, which opens the plug.

Differences in toilet cisterns: classification of cisterns

The modern plumbing equipment market offers the consumer wide choose various drainage devices related to different types and types. There are a large number of varieties of cisterns, which can be classified according to the many characteristics presented below.

The location of the cistern in relation to the toilet

The traditional method of installing toilets, which does not lose its relevance today, involves the creation of a merged structure that unites the cistern and the toilet into a single whole. The advantage of this installation method is that there is no need to install an outlet pipe that connects the toilet bowl and the cistern.

Despite the advantages and reliability traditional way installations are gaining popularity hidden constructions and hanging toilet bowls. The first option is ideal for renovated apartments. It involves installing a cistern inside the wall in such a way that it becomes completely invisible. The system is launched by pressing a special button located on the panel.

Suspended structures are another trendy way of installing toilets, which means hanging the cistern at a certain height from the toilet bowl. A feature of this design is the strong water pressure, which guarantees efficient drainage. However, it also has disadvantages, one of which is the excessive noise that is created during the process of draining the water. Despite the presence of disadvantages, in general, such designs are considered one of the most practical and convenient, and their appearance will be a great addition to the interior, made in retro style.

The main types of triggers

The most common types of triggers are push-button and rod drain devices, which have proven to be some of the most reliable and durable systems. Push-button flush mechanisms are most relevant for flush cisterns closed type... Their main element- button, can be located on the side of the drain bowl or in the center. There are one- and two-mode push-button mechanisms. The latter implies the presence of two buttons: one of them drains the water completely, and the second half. A similar principle of the device will save water when such a need arises. A similar principle of operation of the drain device can be realized by means of one button, if the amount of drained water is determined by the degree of pressing the button.

Drain devices based on levers or chains are also gaining popularity. The manufacturer prefers to place such mechanisms in the side of the drain structure. To drain the water, just pull the lever or chain. This type the drain system will be most relevant for wall-hung toilet bowls. Due to these features, the repair of the cistern wall hung toilet will be slightly different. Regardless of the type of installation of the cistern chosen, a manual trigger is distinguished, which assumes manual installation volume of drained water, and automatic.

Features of the water intake system

There are several types of fittings that regulate the water supply:

• Lateral water supply, assuming the location of the fittings on top, is typical for plumbing equipment Russian manufacturers... Despite the fact that plumbing, equipped with this mechanism, is characterized by low cost, it is not highly demanded, which is due to a fairly noisy set of water. The higher cost models are characterized by the use of a special noise-reducing tube that contributes to the supply of water directly to the bottom.
• The lower water supply is typical for models of both domestic and foreign manufacturers, belonging to a fairly high price category. The features of the bottom water supply mechanism reduce water noise to a minimum.

Flush tank device: basic elements

In order to correctly determine the causes of the malfunctions that have arisen and eliminate them in a timely manner, it is necessary at least in general terms to have an idea of ​​the internal structure of the drain tank. Despite the differences in the reinforcement structures of the cistern, it is characterized by a single device diagram. The internal structure of the cistern implies the presence of the following elements:

• A shut-off or drain fitting regulates the flow of water from the cistern into the toilet and prevents it from leaking unnecessarily. In the process of filling the tank, the water in it contributes to the tight pressing of the valve surface against the drain into the toilet bowl, in view of which the water leakage stops. Thus, if the drain tank leaks water, this is due to a malfunction of the shut-off valves;
• A filling valve, which is combined with a water supply device and is designed to adjust the water level in the drain tank. When the water reaches a certain level, its supply to the tank stops. The water level indicator is a float connected to the filling valve by means of a brass rod. If the first models of drainage devices assumed the lateral location of the filling valve and the horizontal placement of the float, then modern models of plumbing, while maintaining the traditional principle of operation, provide for the location of the filling valve in the lower part of the drain bowl, while the float is characterized by vertical placement;

Important! Problems leading to the need to repair the toilet cistern are most often associated with a malfunction of this particular mechanism and in most cases boil down to adjusting it.

• A mechanism for draining and overflowing water, the design of which is presented plastic fittings equipped with start buttons. Its function is to prevent the ingress of water from the tank into the room in the event of a malfunction of the float valve. The water overflow system, connected to the drain, comes into operation after pressing the start button. Excess water is not poured out due to the connection of the drain mechanism with overflow devices, which contributes to the release of excess water into sewerage system... An important element of the system is a float valve connected to a float that regulates the water level in the tank. Malfunctions associated with the functioning of the float valve lead to water leaks from the tank.

Important! Each of these elements can become unusable, which will lead to the need to repair it. In this regard, there is no need to consider the problems associated with damage to the tank body, since in practice it is practically impossible to eliminate cracks and chips in the body. This is due to the inefficiency of even the most modern adhesives, which becomes the most common reason for replacing the toilet cistern.

The most frequent malfunctions of the cistern: methods for their elimination

Water leakage into the room: causes and methods of elimination of breakdown

If you notice the appearance of water in the room, most likely the cause of this is a malfunction in the fastening. In this case, inexperienced homeowners are likely to panic and, thinking about replacing plumbing, will start looking for an answer to the question: "How to put a toilet bowl and avoid damage during operation?" But do not rush, this problem is easily fixable. Consider the most common causes of this malfunction:

• Wear of the O-ring installed between the cistern and the toilet bowl;
• Damage to the integrity of the mounting bolt gaskets.

All these malfunctions do not require complex diagnostics and can be detected even with a simple visual inspection. If you find these malfunctions, try to tighten the fasteners without applying excessive force, which may cause the reservoir to break or even compromise its integrity.

If you performed the indicated manipulations, and they were unsuccessful at the same time, experts recommend removing the drain tank and replacing the rubber seal on the drain channel. They also recommend replacing the gaskets and washers on the mounting bolts.

Important! To increase the density of joints, making them more reliable, experts recommend additional sealing with silicone.

What if water does not flow into the tank?

This failure is also not uncommon, and its most common cause lies in the clogging of the narrowest part of the valve. Elimination of this problem will not cause difficulties - for this, it is enough to drain all the water from the tank and unscrew the valve together with the lever and the float. After that, you will notice a rather narrow hole designed for water to enter the tank. To remove the blockage, clean it with a needle or fine wire. Next, you need to slightly unscrew the valve on the inlet pipe and flush the remaining blockage. After making sure that water flows freely through the hole into the tank, turn on the valve and set the valve with the lever and the float to its original position.

Constant flow of water from the tank to the toilet: causes and remedies for breakdown

The causes of this malfunction may be:

• Misalignment of the float arm;

How to fix it? If you are faced with this problem, it is enough to give the lever the optimal position for it.

Float damage, leading to the fact that he begins to let water inside himself. This inevitably leads to its aspiration to the bottom of the tank container, that is, the water that gets inside the float prevents it from returning to its original position, at which the flow is cut off tap water... If this does not happen, the excess water through the overflow system is discharged into the toilet.

How to fix it? Only possible option effective repair, in this case, is the replacement of a part.

To do this, the water is shut off along the riser, the device is dismantled, and a new, previously purchased similar part is put in its place.

Important! In order to repair the fittings of the toilet cistern as efficiently as possible, in the process of choosing it, experts recommend paying attention to the dimensions and design features parts, as some of them are not always interchangeable.

Important! In most cases, plastic is used to make modern floats or stainless steel... Floats made from these materials are practically non-leaking.

Wear of the sealing elements of the drain fittings. It is quite simple to find out whether the cause of the malfunction lies in the wear of the sealing elements. To do this, it is enough to slightly squeeze the valve with your hand: if water begins to flow, then you are not mistaken, the problem really lies in the wear of the stop valve, rubber gaskets or a seal. This damage can be eliminated by replacing consumables.

Float wear can also cause permanent leaks. In this case, a hole is formed in the float, through which water flows out.

Important! If at the time of the problem you do not have the necessary parts on hand, make a "temporary" repair. To do this, the hole formed in the float is sealed with heated plastic or wrapped around the failed float with a plastic bag, thereby sealing it. It is important not to forget to secure it around the float arm when doing this.

Repairing a toilet cistern with a button: procedure

How to remove the one-button cover?

• Unscrew the retaining ring around the button. In this case, it is important to avoid strong pressure on it, since plastic is used in most cases to make rings;
• Remove the cover and proceed with the repair.

As mentioned above, the reason for the constant leakage of water from the tank into the toilet can be several reasons:

• Incorrect float position - in this case, simply remove the toilet lid and adjust the float.
• The rubber bulb on the float valve is worn out, as a result of which it does not seal.

In this case, it must be replaced. To do this, fix the float in the upper position and, by unscrewing the nut connecting the tank and the drain pipe, remove the entire mechanism;

• Delete old pear, replacing it with a similar model with similar characteristics.
• If the bolts holding the bulb are worn out, they must be replaced.
• To do this, drain the water from the tank by removing its remnants;
• Unscrew the union nut located between the flexible hose and the float valve, as well as the bolts. With a little effort, tilt the cistern with a shelf backwards, releasing the rubber cuff located between the cistern and the toilet;
• Unscrew the damaged bolt, as well as its paired one, and remove them. It is important to replace both bolts, even if the integrity of the second is still intact. For replacement, select bolts of the same size, made of brass or stainless steel;
• Remove the earthenware under the pear saddle and clean it thoroughly by performing similar measures with the shelf and the tank. Spread on the pear silicone sealant, which will subsequently solve the problems with its wear and will prevent the need to replace it;
• After assembling the tank, tighten the structure with new bolts, while avoiding distortions. To prevent damage to fragile faience, do not use excessive force during the assembly of the structure;
• Open the water and refill the tank, carefully monitoring for leaks.

Failure of the trigger lever: how to fix it?

How to determine that in your case we are talking about this particular malfunction? It’s quite simple: if you pressed the water flush button and didn’t start draining, this chapter will be useful to you.

The reason for such a malfunction lies in the violation of traction, and the only correct way out is to replace it.

Important! In this case, you can also make a "temporary repair" by making a rod from a thick wire and twisting it in several layers. However, improvised traction does not have a long service life - over time, the wire will begin to bend, which will also lead to its failure.

Before you start repairing the old toilet cistern in this case, loosen the fastening of the button to the cistern lid. To accomplish this, turn the decorative nut a few turns - in most cases, this is enough to lift the cover, gaining access to the mechanism.

Noisy filling of the tank with water: how to fix it?

Craftsmen often have to face this problem, and this is especially true for the owners of plumbing equipment, characterized by the presence of tanks with a side water supply. After a certain period of time, the tank capacity begins to fill up with noise, which was not "at the dawn" of operation.

Most often, the cause of this malfunction is the disconnection of the water muffler, which is a special tube through which water is supplied to the bottom of the tank without any noise effects.

To eliminate this malfunction, put the muffler on the specially designed fitting.

Repair of a toilet cistern with a button video

A broken toilet can be a real problem, especially in a home with a large family. Plumbers are expensive these days, and sometimes you have to wait for the arrival of a specialist for hours. Why not try to fix the problem yourself?

The construction of this useful device not particularly difficult. Very often the cause of the malfunction is the flush mechanism for the toilet. You need to study its device, the principle of operation, as well as get acquainted with the most common breakdowns and the procedure for their elimination.

Toilet bowls and cisterns for them are quite diverse in design, construction, installation method, etc. A distinction is made between standard “compacts”, mounted models in which the tank is installed directly into the wall, and models with a free-standing tank.

The latter, however, are less and less common, since such "retro" class plumbing is considered outdated.

This diagram clearly shows the device of the float mechanism in the toilet cistern. When the float reaches the top position, the piston shuts off the water supply

But the drain mechanism inside the tank is of only two types, and the principle of operation in both cases is almost the same. It all depends on the type of water supply to the tank, which can be side or bottom.

Lateral water supply is the most common option. A significant part of domestically produced toilet bowls is arranged in this way. They are simple, reliable in operation, but they make a characteristic noise when water is supplied to the tank chamber.

In order to eliminate this drawback, models of tanks were created in which water is supplied from below. In this case, the filling of the container is made with a much smaller number of sounds, but the drain in such tanks is designed a little differently.

This figure clearly shows the internal structure of a conventional toilet cistern, in which water is supplied from the side.

The drainage mechanism can be conditionally divided into two parts: a device that regulates the flow of water into the tank chamber, as well as a mechanism by which the tank is emptied, i.e. flushing is carried out. In addition, there must be a protective element in the tank - an overflow tube.

V different models The internal filling of the tank may look different, but functionally it is always three main elements: a float valve, a flush and a safety overflow.

The flow of water into the tank is controlled by a special float valve. It consists of the following elements:

• a float that moves freely along the surface of the water;
• a bar with which you turn on / off the water supply from the water supply system;
• a lever that connects the two elements.

It works like this: when, after flushing, the water level in the tank decreases, the float goes down, the lever transfers the force to the rod, the water supply opens, and the tank begins to fill. When the float rises with the water to the maximum level, the rod shuts off the water pipe and the water flow stops.

The simplicity of the valve design explains its high reliability and our ignorance of where, what and when to repair. It just works, that's all.

A vertical tube is often attached to the float valve of a side-fed tank. This element is necessary so that less noise is produced when water is supplied to the tank.

The second part of the flush mechanism is the flush itself. It consists of a valve that prevents water from flowing out of the tank, as well as a draft that opens this valve. The valve is usually a pear-shaped rubber element.

Such a mechanism is controlled with the help of a button, a ball that needs to be pulled up, or a rope that is pulled down. The latter option is used only in freestanding "retro" tanks, which are extremely rare.

After pressing the button, the valve opens and a significant amount of water flows into the toilet, performing the task for which this mechanism was designed.

The armature of a tank with a bottom water supply outwardly differs from the contents of domestic models, however, the principle of its operation is practically the same

When the water runs out completely, the valve moves down and reliably closes the outlet. At this moment, the float valve is triggered, and water begins to flow into the container. Another useful element is usually built into the drain system - an overflow tube. It prevents water from flowing out over the edge of the tank.

This can happen if the float valve breaks down, if the water has not been shut off even after reaching the maximum level. Sometimes the overflow tube is not mounted in the drain valve mechanism, but is installed separately. In models with a bottom water supply, the float mechanism looks a little different, but its principle of operation is almost the same as in a tank with a side water supply.

The device and the principle of operation of the drainage mechanism are clearly presented in the following video:

Adjusting the amount of water in the tank

The maximum amount of water in the tank is adjusted by changing the length of the lever to which the float is attached. If the role of such a lever is played by a piece of thick wire (this is still found in older models), it can simply be bent up or down, depending on whether you need to make the amount of water in the tank more or less.

The higher the position of the float in the tank, the more water will enter the tank.

But instead of wire in modern models, plastic elements are increasingly used, which, of course, cannot be bent. To change the position of the float, simply slide it along the plastic shoulder, placing it closer to or further from the water supply.

The closer the float is to the valve, the less water will enter the tank. To attach the float, a latch is usually used, which must be squeezed out to move this element. Sometimes used threaded connection, it is usually not difficult to unscrew and then tighten.

In toilets with a bottom water supply, the shoulder is located vertically, and it is even easier to adjust the water level. The float is simply pushed up or down the arm. Its position will correspond to the required water level.

Such simple manipulations will help to improve the functioning of the tank, increase the flush efficiency and save a significant amount of water.

The procedure for installing the tank drain mechanism

In the process of installing the toilet, it is usually necessary to assemble and install the flush mechanism as well. Installation for a built-in toilet is usually supplied already assembled, but you will have to work hard on assembling a compact. Sometimes in the instructions there is a recommendation to first assemble and put the device inside the tank, and then mount the tank on the bowl, but practice shows that this is not always convenient.

Sometimes drain elements block access to the tank mounting bolts, which makes installation much more difficult. Therefore, it makes sense to first put the tank and fix it, and then proceed with assembling and installing the “filling” of the tank.

• First, a special protective gasket is installed on the thread of the drain mechanism.
• The gasket structure is placed in the drain hole.
• The gasket is fixed with a special plastic nut, which should be carefully but tightly tightened.
• The drain hole on the toilet bowl is protected by another gasket.
• The cistern is placed on the toilet bowl and secured with tie bolts, under which there should also be small rubber gaskets to protect against leaks.
• Install the water supply mechanism.
• Attach it to the plumbing system.

After that, you can close the tank with a lid, install the flush controls (button, bar, etc.) and the installation of the toilet can be considered complete.

As a rule, malfunctions are associated with poor-quality production of components or simply worn-out parts. Most often, the flush mechanism of the tank causes three types of troubles for its owners:

• Water does not flow into the tank.
• Water pours out of the tank and flows onto the floor.
• Water enters the cistern, but constantly flows into the toilet, and the cistern remains empty or only partially filled.

To find out the cause of the breakdown, usually the insides of the tank have to be removed, disassembled, inspected and repaired. Of course, before starting any repair operations with the tank, you need to turn off the water supply to the toilet.

This is not difficult to do if a corresponding shut-off valve was provided during the installation of the water supply system.

An important design element is the tank cover

Models in which the flush is carried out with a push-button, single or double, are very convenient and popular. However, remove such a cover very carefully so as not to damage the control mechanism. There is a special locking ring around the button.

First you need to carefully unscrew it. Usually this element is made of plastic, if excessive pressure is applied, the ring may burst.

To remove the retaining ring from the tank lid, press the button and carefully unscrew it. You can use a special slot on the inside of it

After the ring is removed, the cover must be carefully removed. Sometimes, pressing the button does not flush. This is almost always caused by the disconnection of the hooks connecting the button and the flush mechanism. It is enough to remove the offset for the tank to work normally.

If the buttons fall, this also indicates their incorrect position. After the displacement has been corrected, the mechanism will start working correctly.

If water does not flow into the reservoir, the problem is most likely in the water supply mechanism. It is either clogged or broken. It is necessary to disassemble this part of the device and check if there is any dirt inside. Usually, it is sufficient to flush the valve or remove deposits inside the water pipe and then reinstall the valve to get rid of the problem.

If no water enters the tank, disassemble and clean the inlet valve of the device. You may need to clean the water supply pipe (hose)

The opening in the valve is very narrow and clogs easily. A piece of wire or a needle is usually used to clean it. To flush the water pipe, you need to briefly open the shut-off valve. After the valve is screwed on again and the mechanism is installed, water is released to check the operation of the system.

If the quality of your tap water is poor, it makes sense to consider installing a safety filter. This measure will increase the life of plumbing in the house.

Pear problems

If water constantly flows out of the cistern into the toilet, then there is a problem with the rubber bulb that blocks the drain hole. Either it is too light, and needs to be weighed down, or it has leaked out, and a complete replacement of this element is necessary.

To determine the nature of the problem, remove the tank cap and press the flush mechanism from above. At the same time, a sufficient amount of water must remain in the tank.

To weight the bottom water tank fittings, place a suitable weight on the bottom as shown.

If the flow of water continues at significant pressure, then the pear is spoiled. The following operations should be performed:

• Shut off the water supply.
• Move the float to the top position.
• Dismantle the flush mechanism.
• Remove the pear.
• Purchase an item of the same size and shape in the store.
• Place the pear in place.
• Install the flush device.
• Check system operation.

If you have a choice, you should give preference to a pear made of more elastic rubber, this will ensure its better fit to the drain hole.

Sometimes a layer of sealant allows you to solve the problem with a leaky pear, but this is a temporary measure, soon the problem will arise again.

A rubber valve (bulb) that closes the drain hole in the tank wears out over time and may require weighting or replacement

If, by pressing on the mechanism, the leak is eliminated, it is necessary to make the bulb heavier. For this, various weighting materials are used: lead elements, several bolts, a narrow nylon sandbag, etc.

The pear is removed, and the weighting agent is placed over it, evenly distributing it around the pipe. Then the pear is put in place.

If the tank leaks

If water flows from the tank directly to the floor, then one or more of the gaskets covering its mounting holes is out of order and needs to be replaced. This will require quite large-scale work:

• First, remove the water from the tank.
• Then dismantle its internal filling.
• After that, the fastening bolts are unscrewed.
• The cistern is carefully removed from the toilet bowl.
• Worn rubber gaskets are removed.
• All connections are thoroughly cleaned of contamination.
• The tank is reassembled using new gaskets.

Even if only one gasket has leaked, it is recommended to replace them all at once, since the rest of the elements were exposed to the same destructive effect and may soon fail.

Operations for dismantling and installing the tank are quite laborious, and such prudence will save you from the need to do this work several times.

If one of the tank gaskets is worn out and leaks, it is recommended to replace all similar gaskets, since the likelihood of imminent leaks in these places is very high

Occasionally the gaskets are ok and the water is pouring over the rim of the tank. Most likely, the problem is a breakdown of the overflow system. It must either be cleaned or completely replaced. Will help solve the problem and correct adjustment float position. This procedure has already been described above.

The gasket located at the inlet of the tank can also leak. It needs to be replaced in the same way. All joints should be carefully sealed to prevent the occurrence of such damage in the future. At the end of the work, you need to fill and empty the tank several times to make sure there are no leaks.

Features of breakdowns in tanks with a bottom water supply

When operating such a device, the same problems can arise as in a side-feed tank. They are solved in the same way. But there are also differences. For example, the reason for the lack of water in the tank may be insufficient water pressure in the water supply system of the house.

Diaphragm valves are sensitive to this problem. If the water pressure in the system can drop to a level of 0.05 MPa, it is better to choose a device with a rod valve.

In toilets with a bottom water supply, the water supply hose is located next to the bolt that secures the cistern to the toilet bowl

Misalignment of intake mechanism elements is another common reason for the lack of water in the reservoir. Even when installing a toilet with a bottom water supply, you should pay attention to this point.

If the elements of the mechanism touch the walls of the tank or the drain mechanism, then they are installed incorrectly. To solve the problem, it is enough to return the valve and float to the correct position.

It is impossible to imagine a home without a well-equipped bathroom. And the main thing in it is a toilet with a cistern.

A toilet cistern is an integral part of this plumbing device, without which it simply loses its sense of purpose. The insides of the toilet cistern allow you to remove human waste products by supplying a metered portion of water and refill the container.

You can fully appreciate the importance of this plumbing equipment in the toilet only when the toilet is broken and it is impossible to use it.

Drain tank - internal structure

In the process of improvement, many designs of these products have been developed and applied. By location, waste tanks can be classified as follows:

1. Upper- located at a height of approximately one and a half meters above the toilet bowl, water is supplied through the pipe after exposure to the hanging handle. Pulling on it, the drain valve is opened, and a portion of water enters the bowl.

1. Hidden... The capacity is placed in a niche, which is arranged in the wall of the room. With this option, the start button is located on the vertical plane of the partition (door). They are usually made of plastic.

1. Compact the cistern is attached directly to the toilet bowl. For this, a special shelf with holes is provided on it. Fastening is done with screw parts; for earthenware products, they are made of plastic.

Toilet cisterns can be made from various materials:

1. Cast iron... Castings made from this material are the original production methods for toilet cisterns. Currently, their use is not relevant, but the demand still remains, so they are still being produced. Cast iron products are often decorated with decorative castings. The material itself is durable and reliable. (See photo 2.)
2. Ceramics... The most popular material for the production of sanitary ware at the present time. The products are durable enough with a clean smooth surface that is easy to wash and clean. It is not recommended to use powders and pastes with abrasives for this.

1. Plastic... These plumbing fixtures are made by stamping from various polymers. The advantage is high manufacturing precision when reworking mechanically practically not required.

Products made of polymer materials are used, as a rule, for hidden installation, therefore, their width is less than that of products made from other materials.

Internal structure of the drain tank

When installing a new toilet with a cistern, the first thing to look out for is this is the completeness of the purchased equipment and its size... If the state of the bowl is determined purely visually in order to establish its integrity, then the drain device is worthy of closer attention. It not only needs to be installed correctly, but also needs to be tuned to work optimally. This can lead to substantial savings in water consumption.

Today the market building materials filled with a mass of different products in terms of material and internal filling. If you wish, you can also find plumbing of outdated designs, if you need one.

The design of the internal arrangement of the flushing cisterns is practically the same with a slight difference between different suppliers:

1. Mechanisms that include a stop button. The water will be drained until it is pressed or the entire volume has not drained out. If you release the button earlier as the toilet bowl is cleaned, the liquid stops flowing into it.
2. Drainage devices with two buttons. When one of them is pressed, the entire volume of water is poured, and when using the second, part of the liquid is poured out, depending on the flow rate adjustment. The buttons cannot be confused - they different sizes... They appeared on the market relatively recently and this is due to the need to save water resources and, as a result, own money.
3. Two-mode drain mechanisms.

The tanks also differ in the nature of the flush:

• straight - while water flows into the bowl directly from the tank, in one direction;
• the opposite - when flushed, water can change the direction of the inflow, which cleans the toilet bowl more efficiently, although this creates noise.

The typical layout of the toilet cistern resembles an ordinary water seal, which includes a float and a system of levers. When using a button or pull rod (for rod mechanisms), water flows from top to bottom, cleaning the toilet bowl.

In this case, the float goes down and, through a system of levers, opens the inlet valve, through which water from the water supply network enters the container, filling it for subsequent use.

The interior for the cistern includes:

1. Inlet valve.
2. Float.
3. Siphon.
4. A system of levers for moving parts and assemblies of the mechanism.

Inlet valve

This node from different manufacturers is represented by many constructive solutions, but the essence is the same for everyone: it is a motorized valve on the water supply system, operating under the influence of force from the float.

When the float is lowered, the piston opens and water enters the tank through the pipe.

As it fills, the float rises up and levers the piston outward, gradually blocking the nozzle. In this case, the water flows more and more slowly and with a complete overlap of the section, its flow into the container stops.

Float

This product is a rubber or plastic container, the purpose of which, as the name suggests, is to float. At the same time, through a metal lever it opens and closes the intake valve.

Siphon

This is a device for the salvo discharge of water from the cistern into the toilet bowl. The siphon for the toilet cistern is activated by pressing the flush button, as a result of which a vacuum is created in the air chamber.

Under its influence, water is actively pumped out of the tank until it is completely empty.

Overflow device - common breakdowns and repairs

It is normal to fill the tank to 80% of the total capacity. This is achieved by adjusting the inlet valve, or rather the position of the float.

However, situations arise when a malfunction occurs in the operation of the locking device and the toilet tank is overfilled. In this case, the overflow of the container is inevitable and water spills onto the floor.

To avoid such a situation, an overflow pipe is installed in the tank, which goes into the drain. When the liquid level rises above the norm, it flows out through the pipe into the drain, preventing flooding of the room.

Watch the video

However, such a situation, when water flows out of the tank without stopping, is a sign of a malfunction and a reason for immediate intervention to eliminate it. Considering modern tendencies in the production of plumbing, most likely, it is not necessary to restore the functionality of a broken unit, but it is necessary to replace it completely.

But the replaced unit still has to be disassembled in order to understand why it failed and eliminate the cause. For example, install an internal fine (coarse) filter at the inlet to the tank.

Another reason for the constant spillage of water can be a violation of the tightness of the locking mechanism due to the wear of the gasket. It just needs to be replaced.

In general, water leakage into the toilet is typical breakdown this appliance. One of the reasons may be damage or wear of the insides of the siphon membrane of the drain tank. With such a malfunction, it will be necessary to replace the siphon membrane, and this can be done in the following sequence:

1. Empty the container. To prevent filling the container through the inlet valve, the float must be secured in some way in the upper position, and it is better to shut off ball valve at the outlet of the water supply.
2. Unscrew the nut that secures the drain pipe.
3. Loosen the siphon nut located at the base at the outlet from the container.
4. Disconnect the siphon from the fluid drain lever and remove it.
5. Remove the diaphragm and replace it with a similar one.

1. Assemble the mechanism in the reverse order.

During work, it is necessary to inspect other insides for the toilet and fix it where necessary. At the end of the work, you need to fill the tank and make several test drains of water to make sure that the malfunction has been eliminated.

It is also necessary to check all joints in the system for leaks. If any are found, take measures to eliminate them. When this fails, it is necessary to invite a qualified plumber to fix the leaks.

What to do if the toilet tank does not fill up

Watch the video - what to do if water is not collected

This is one of the typical faults of the toilet flush system. If it occurs, you should not run to the store for a new tank. Let's try to figure out the situation on our own, using the following algorithm.

• Remove the cover.
• Check the position of the float. In some cases, the cause of the malfunction is its distortion, which prevents movement inside the container. It is necessary to restore the position, fill the tank and make a test drain of the fluid.
• Check for water in the plumbing system on other consoles.
• Turn off the tap at the inlet and unscrew the connection hose. Check to make sure it is not clogged.
• Inspect the hole in the intake valve body, if necessary, clean it from contamination with a nail or elastic wire.
• Check the piston stroke, if it is tight, it is necessary to remove and clean the surface of this part, achieving free movement in the housing.

At the end of these works, it is necessary to assemble the system back and make a test filling of the tank two or three times. Typically, these steps are sufficient to fix the problem. If the container still does not fill, you will have to visit a plumbing store and buy a new valve.

Installation is in the reverse order. At the same time, we advise you to buy and install filters for purifying tap water and install them immediately behind the water tap.

Establishing the fact that the toilet cistern has broken should not shock a person. Most faults can be corrected by hand. If that fails, call emergency service- for a fee, they can easily fix any problem.

Installation and replacement of fittings

"Nothing lasts forever under the moon", this fully applies to drain devices for toilet bowls. Sooner or later, you have to start replacing the fittings, that is, the internal structure of the tank. When deciding to do the work with your own hands, you need to take into account a number of circumstances:

1. The very need for replacement implies a significant service life of your device. Therefore, when going to buy internals, you need to at least roughly know the age of the device.
2. There are many plumbing manufacturers, and each of them brings its own design features to the device. Therefore, you also need to know the author of the product.
3. The need to repair and do it yourself requires certain knowledge and skills, as well as the presence of a special tool.

Installing the insides of the cistern is a painstaking work, comparable to assembling a new product, so you need to treat it as carefully and responsibly as possible. V otherwise leaks can form, which can be troublesome to fix.

Video - reinforcement replacement

It should be remembered that the insides of the tank can be quite complex and fragile structures, the breakdown of which, if incorrectly installed, is very likely.

The difference in the internals of fittings from different manufacturers may depend on the way the water is supplied. There are such features.

• Lateral fluid supply provides for the location of the insides in the upper part of the tank, which is typical for domestic products. Such a system is the most economical, but the fluid supply is accompanied by noticeable noise. In more prestigious models, water is supplied through a tube, the end of which is lowered to the bottom and the filling is done quietly.
• A device for supplying water from below is most often found on models of foreign production, but recently it has also been found on domestic products.

Drainage devices are triggered when pulling the lever up or when pressing the button, which can be two for various dosages water when flushed.

What principles should be adhered to when repairing

Watch the video - internal structure and principle of operation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the equipment. This means the implementation of the following activities:

1. It is necessary to turn off the tap on the water pipe in front of the inlet valve.
2. Remove the cover. You may need to unscrew the button-shaped latch, usually located on the left side of the container, to do this. Unscrew the fixing screw and remove the cover, gaining access to the inside of the tank.
3. Inspect fittings for worn or broken parts.

Inside the filling fitting is a diaphragm valve or piston plug. Any of these designs are sensitive to finely dispersed contaminants that are always present in tap water.

Deposited on the walls of pipes and any surfaces with which it comes into contact, these contaminants impede the operation of the valve mechanisms. The structure of this deposit is very strong and can only be removed mechanically.

If no filtering devices are installed on the inlet pipe, periodic replacement of the fittings is inevitable. You can abandon the push-button drain mechanism in favor of a rod one.

To install a new mechanism in the tank, you must first remove the old one. This can be done by turning it clockwise until it is completely disengaged. In this case, excessive efforts should not be used; if the attachment point breaks, it will be problematic to remove it.

New fittings must match the tank in size, you need to pay attention to this when buying.

Watch the video

It is also necessary to pay attention to the correct installation of the sealing elements - gaskets. Their misalignment can lead to additional loads and, over time, to the formation of cracks in the case, which is detrimental to ceramic products.

When installing fasteners, excessive forces should not be applied to it, so as not to create additional loads.

Installing the inside of the tank does not seem like a complicated operation. It is quite possible to do it yourself.

Conclusion

The main requirement for the operation of such plumbing products is constant supervision of their work. Any deviation from the norm indicates certain changes in the filling of the device and you need to clearly understand the consequences of such changes.

The most dangerous phenomena are situations when water overflows above acceptable level... This is fraught with flooding of neighbors from below and real considerable expenses for eliminating the consequences.

Watch the video

Currently, devices for connecting the toilet directly to the water supply have appeared on the plumbing market. This eliminates the need for a tank as such. One should think that the future belongs to products of this kind.