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Do-it-yourself paving stones are not very difficult decision and it can be implemented by yourself. For arranging tracks on garden plot or near the house, paving slabs or paving stones are most often used.

The use of paving stones for landscaping is very popular, because it does not retain moisture during rains, and also has a beautiful appearance.

What is needed to prepare paving stones?

As the arrangement of the territory, many people prefer paving stones, and not asphalt or solid concrete pavement, since puddles do not form on it. If it becomes necessary to carry out new communications or to repair those that have already been laid, then the paving stones can be easily removed and then laid in place, which cannot be done with asphalt or solid concrete pavement... They will have to be torn off and a new covering should be laid, while the paving stones are used the same. If the asphalt, when heated strongly in the sun, emits harmful substances, then the paving stone does not have the indicated drawback.

If you decide to make paving slabs on your own, then this is only half the battle, it still needs to be laid correctly, only in this case it will look attractive and have a long service life.

To create paving stones with your own hands, you will need:

• a separate room or at least a shed;
• table or sheet of metal;
• rack;
• special forms;
• a solution that consists of cement, sand, water; a plasticizer, dye can be added;
• reinforcement to increase the strength of the tiles.

You can create forms for paving stones with your own hands, or you can purchase ready-made ones. In order to make a pattern and create a relief of the surface of the paving stone, you must first prepare a stamp. For this, rigid wire is most often used, from which various shapes are made. When, after pouring, the surface hardens a little, a prepared stamp is installed on each tile and a relief surface is obtained.

In order to get a more durable, reliable paving stone, you can reinforce it or add screenings, a plasticizer, and to make it more beautiful, use a dye or fillers (pebbles, glass pieces, pieces of tile).

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Features of the choice of form

Anyone can make molds for paving stones with their own hands House master, but you can also get them in the store. The variety of shapes is very large, and you can choose exactly those that will satisfy all your requirements.

Forms are of the following types:

1. Rubber. They can be glossy or matte and are ready-to-use. These forms are designed for 500 work cycles. You can do more, but the quality will be worse.
2. Plastic. They are most often sold in stores, come in a variety of shapes, but are designed for only 250 cycles.
3. The polyurethane mold is used to create tiles with small details and is designed for no more than 100 cycles.
4. The mold itself can be made from planks, sheet metal, pieces of pipes, plastic containers and other materials. To create them, you need to show imagination and just bring it to life, you can even use milk cartons or similar containers.

The main disadvantage homemade forms is that they will have to be lubricated, otherwise it will be difficult to get the paving stones. For lubrication, you can use machine oil or its working off, drying oil.

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Mixing mortar and making paving stones

The basis for making paving stones with your own hands is always cement and sand.

Forms for making paving stones can be purchased at the store or made by yourself.

To change the appearance of paving stones, you can use different sand or special dyes. Water is added until a creamy consistency of the solution is obtained. In order for the tile to be stronger and similar to a natural stone, you can add screenings to the solution. The use of plasticizers allows you to increase the strength of the product, its frost resistance and other indicators.

To make the solution, take one part of cement and three parts of sand. If gravel is added, then it must be mixed with sand in a 1: 1 ratio.

There are two ways to use dyes: they can be added directly to the solution during its manufacture, or you can sprinkle the tile with dye while the tile dries and gently smooth it with a metal trowel.

The second method allows you to get a brighter and more saturated color, but you need to work with a trowel carefully so as not to damage the surface of the paving stone.

If white cement and sand is used, then the dye can be poured directly into the solution. The color will turn out to be less saturated and bright, in other cases you risk getting dirty colored tiles.

After you prepare the solution, you can start pouring it into the prepared molds. First, half of the mold is poured, after which a reinforcing layer is laid, it can be wire and pieces of reinforcement. Then the rest of the solution is poured in and tamped well, then the surface is finally leveled.

If you decide to make a relief surface, then you can take a stamp and press it into each tile to the required depth. As a decoration, you can use pebbles, broken glass or pieces of ceramic tiles, which are placed in a not yet dried solution in random order. In order to make a smooth shiny surface of the tile, while it is not dry, it is ironed: the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed over it with a trowel.

In the garden? There are a lot of options! One of the most preferred is paving stones. The advantages of the material, among other things, are that it can be made and laid out with your own hands. How to do it? Read on!

What we need?

1. The form.
2. Components for the preparation of the mixture.
3. Dry paint (if necessary).

Making the shape

You can buy a ready-made form at any hardware store, but it is much more profitable to make such a product with your own hands. We will consider an example of making a wooden square shape... Similarly, you can make a template in the form of a triangle, rhombus, rectangle, etc.

We work in the following order.

First step. We mark the bars into pieces of the sizes we need. We take into account that the dimensions of the finished paving stones will be equal internal dimensions template. We cut the material according to the marking.

Second step. We collect the bars in a square. From the outside, we connect the form elements in the corners using corners and screws.

Step three. We sand the form.

Fourth step. If desired, cover the frame with a double layer of varnish. In the future, this will make it easier to remove tiles from the template.

To make the work go faster, it is better to make several of these forms at once. Select the specific amount individually, taking into account the scale of the planned event.

Video - How to make a form for paving stones

Paving stone prices

Paving stones

Preparing the solution

Paving stones can be cast from different solutions, but each of them is prepared on the basis of cement and sand.

If you plan on making light-colored tiles, go for white cement and quartz sand. The recipe is simple:

• cement - 1 part;
• quartz sand - 3 parts;
• water - until a mixture of a viscous consistency is obtained.

To visually bring the look of paving stones closer to the exterior natural stone, add fine gravel to the mixture. The recipe is elementary: mix sand, cement and gravel in equal amounts and add water until a solution of a viscous consistency is obtained.

To increase the strength and durability of the tiles, we can add a little plasticizer to the mixture (literally 1-2 g per tile).

If you need colored paving stones, add dry paint directly to the mixture. However, in this case, the color of the tiles will not be very bright. If you want a richer shade, paint over the paving stones shortly after casting. The principle is simple: the solution in the frame hardens a little, you sprinkle the fill with the dye of the desired color and gently rub it into the base material with an iron float.

Fill in the forms

First step. Place the forms on a flat horizontal surface.

Second step. Fill the solution with about half the volume of the mold.

Step three. We lay out a reinforcing mesh made of wire or scraps of steel rods.

Fourth step. Fill the shape completely.

Fifth step. We carefully tamp the fill, level and smooth the surface of the products.

If you need a smooth and shiny tile, we iron it. To do this, evenly pour a little cement on the surface of the product that has not yet had time to harden and gently rub it with a trowel. Using the same technology, various small pebbles can be rubbed into the tile.

Let the paving stones dry. Drying time depends on the thickness of the product. On average, this takes 2-3 days. If possible, leave the paving stones to dry directly in the molds so they will not crack for sure. If it's hot outside, periodically moisten the surface of the products with water.

Video - Manufacturing technology of paving slabs, paving stones, curbs

We lay out the tracks

We lay out the tiles as tightly as possible to each other, making out the desired pattern. In this moment, focus solely on your preferences. The maximum width of the seams is 1-2 mm. To make them the same, we install plastic crosses. For additional cohesion of the finishing elements, we use a wooden hammer.

Table 1. Material consumption (g / m²) for lining the path, depending on the size of the paving stones and the thickness of the joints

Tile dimensions (cm)	Joint width 2 mm	Joint width 4 mm	Joint width 6 mm	Joint width 8 mm
2x2x0.3	750	1500	-	-
10x10x0.6	300	600	900	1210
15x15x0.7	240	470	710	950
20x20x0.7	180	360	540	720
30x30x0.8	140	280	410	550
40x40x0.8	100	210	320	420
50x50x0.8	90	170	260	340

Important! Be sure to check the evenness of laying each tile using a level. To eliminate the deviations, remove the tiles and fill them in, or remove the excess sand from under it. In the presence of cement screed such problems will not arise.

We lay out the entire planned surface with paving stones. We use a grinder to cut the tiles.

Fifth stage - surface finishing

In conclusion, we just have to apply a layer of wet sand to the laid out track and rub it into the joints. It is convenient to use a hard-bristled mop for grouting.

Happy work!

Video - Making paving stones with your own hands

Pleasure is not cheap, but everyone wants to make their yard clean and pretty, so I had such a great desire.

Buy paving stones in the required amount I could not - it turned out to be beyond my means, but to do it on my own - easily :) It is about how to make paving stones on my own that I will tell you in this article, fully illustrating the manufacturing process.

Required materials and devices

The technology for the production of paving stones, like its recipe, was found by me on the Internet, since there is more than enough information, and I got down to business.

For the manufacture of such paving slabs you need to buy a superplasticizer and, if desired, a dye.

In the store I bought several bags of 500 grade cement and a superplasticizer: it will increase the strength of the paving stone and increase its resistance to low temperatures.

Not a huge, of course, but quite a decent pile of sand, brought about a year ago from a local quarry, we have left after the completion of the house.

And I decided not to buy a colorant-dye. Honestly, as for me, the difference between colored and gray paving stones is small, the color still turns out to be a shade of gray!

As a vibrating table, without which the production of high-quality paving stones is simply impossible, it was decided to use the old washing machine Siemens, which has already served its term for a long time, but still very much a working one. If anyone does not know what a vibrating table is for, I explain - with its help, the maximum compaction of the forms of any concrete elements is achieved, in our case, paving stones, which become more homogeneous and, accordingly, strong.

I will tell you about forms separately and in more detail :)

About forms for self-production of paving stones

When I shared the idea self-made paving stones with friends, some of them suggested that I make the molds myself. Some suggested making them out of old boards, the second advised using unnecessary containers - trays, dishes, and so on, while others persuaded to make them from a special polymer. I, of course, a girl "with hands", but did not dare to do that, I decided to buy ready-made forms ... They are quite varied, so that you can choose a shape with beautiful pattern to be printed on the surface finished product giving it special charm and chic.

To make paving stones with their own hands or not, everyone decides for himself, and I can only say that it is exciting, not burdensome and profitable. I hope my little paving stone workshop will be useful to you, try it and show off your results!

• Homemade tile from Kostya9
• Homemade vibrating table and homemade tiles from Commander

Homemade tile from Kostya9

Kostya9 Participant of FORUMHOUSE

To implement the idea, profile network resources were studied on the topic of forms and the portal forum, on the topic of the process itself - necessary equipment, raw material base, production technology. As it turned out, plastic and other forms are available, whatever you want, the main materials remained from the construction site, and the existing units require relatively simple, feasible refinement. Unforeseen complications arose only with the purchase of the 500th cement - due to low demand the local merchants simply did not have it, they had to go to a neighboring town.

Manufacturing

To make the tile as strong as possible, it was redone for the vibrating table. a circular saw – working surface replaced by a heavy plate (with springs from nine racks), under the plate - a vibration motor. Typical concrete mixer for preparing mortar, ready-made polymer forms, with imitation of the surface of sandstone, for drying - old refrigerator placed sideways.

The ratio of the proportions of concrete was also selected on the forum.

In addition to the existing dropout, washed river sand and purchased cement the right brand, a plasticizer was required for the tile, the choice fell on SP-1. It is a versatile additive that improves the performance of the mortar, its use increases mechanical strength concrete, reduces the number of pores on the surface, gives smoothness and increases the vibration efficiency. Although dreamed of colored tiles, the cost of dye and white cement, to obtain saturated color, made do with a natural, gray shade.

The mixing proportions are as follows:

• Screening (crushed stone of fraction 0-5) - 38 kg (three ten-liter buckets);
• Sand (river, washed) - 18 kg (one ten-liter bucket);
• Cement (M-500) - 17 kg (fourteen liter bucket);
• Plasticizer - 80 grams per batch (diluted in a liter warm water);
• Water - 8.5 liters (if the weather is hot, another 0.7 liters).

Mixing technology:

• Screenings (all) are put into the concrete mixer first;
• Water is poured in;
• A plasticizer is added;
• The mixture is thoroughly mixed;
• Cement is added;
• Thorough mixing again;
• Sand is added;
• Last mixing (add water if necessary).

The consistency of the solution turns out to be quite thick, reminiscent of wet earth - this is a conscious choice, although many prefer to work with more fluid solutions.

Kostya9

Liquid concrete, that liquid mud– no strength.

Pre-lubricated engine oil forms (in the corners, with a brush) are exposed on a vibrating table. The mortar must be filled evenly.

Processing time is from three to seven minutes. Vibration should not only compact the mixture, but also expel air bubbles from it. In the process of processing, the forms change places and rotate around their axis - so that the effect is uniform. As it shrinks, the mortar is added until the form is filled to the end, you can tap it with your hand to ensure that there are no voids left. From the vibrating table, the forms are sent for more than a day (25-30 hours) to the dryer. On the advice of the members of the branch, an old refrigerator, aka drying chamber, was turned over from the side, onto the "back", this greatly simplified the process of laying and removing the product.

After this period, the finished tile easily loses its shape thanks to the lubrication, and thanks to the ongoing hydration processes that keep the raw material hot. If you overexpose the tile and it cools down, it will be more difficult to get it out of the plastic - you will have to pour boiling water over it so that the plastic expands. However, if you overexpose it not for a couple of hours, but for a couple of days, and it has time to cool completely, it will be difficult to remove it, even using boiling water.

Having stuffed his hand on a square tile, the craftsman switched to curly and decided to use chromium oxide as a dye.

The first test of adding a dye at the rate, at the rate of 1% of the binder (170 grams per batch), practically did not give any result. It was not a color that appeared, but a light, almost imperceptible shade, so the dosage was doubled, which gave the desired greens. Like the plasticizer, the dye was previously diluted in water.

Homemade tile from Commander

Commander FORUMHOUSE Participant

He covered the barn, the yard, the paths to the greenhouses with tiles of his own making. Very good and profitable!

And in this case, a homemade vibrating table was used. Here's a recipe for anyone interested:

• Motor - from washing machine(on rubber shock absorbers);
• From her - a pulley for a belt transmission from the engine to the eccentric;
• Eccentric - the former rotor of the electric motor: cut off with a 1/3 grinder, machined a cage for bearings, welded holders, the whole structure is bolted to an iron sheet;
• Over the sheet / table - wood flooring 60x60 cm (for 50x50 cm tiles);
• High sides - so that you can make tiles with a thickness of 6 cm.

For household purposes - paths in the barn, in the garage, along the edges, the Commander makes a big one, square tiles size 50x50 cm, and for decorative paths, reminiscent of sidewalks - curly. The molds, as in the first version, are polymeric, soft - unlike hard plastic ones, they do not break for several years.

The composition of the solution and the proportions for the batch:

• Gravel is a bucket;
• Cement - bucket;
• Elimination - 3 buckets;
• Plasticizer - 2/3 cup;
• Water.

Water is poured into a working mixer, a plasticizer is added, the next is gravel, and after wetting the gravel, cement. When the mixture is homogeneous, screenings are added. The commander does not add sand, as there is a large amount of dust in the screenings, which replaces it and prevents the formation of voids. Forms are lubricated before use palm oil, as they become dirty, they are easily washed with Karcher. But they become contaminated if the technology is violated and the tiles cannot withstand the prescribed day, so it is better not to rush.

Paths and platforms paved with paving slabs look aesthetically pleasing. Such a coating is durable, reliable, with a long service life, and it is easy to care for it. But if you purchase the material on the market, then the cost of finishing the tracks can be significant. Therefore, many owners are engaged in the production of paving slabs on their own, and they themselves install it. Fortunately, the market today has everything for this. As part of today's review, we will try to sort out the entire technological process making paving slabs with your own hands, and also consider how to lay it.

Two technologies are mainly used today:

• vibrocompression;
• vibration casting.

How do they differ from each other.

Vibrocompression technology

it industrial way production of paving slabs, which uses special equipment consisting of a press and a vibrating table. the tiles are laid on the table, a cement mortar with the addition of pigments is poured into it, after which the mixture is exposed great pressure from the press. In the process of pressure, the vibration of the table immediately occurs, which evenly distributes the poured solution throughout the entire volume of the mold.

The tile material is accurate in shape and size, its density is increased, which means that its strength will be great. This technology depending on the type of equipment used, it is practically devoid of manual labor, there are no problems with demolding. More recently, for this purpose, steaming of finished products was used to pull them out of the molds. This increased the cost of products. Today all this is not used, so the prices for paving slabs have dropped sharply.

But the topic of the article is how to make paving slabs with your own hands, so we will not talk more about this method of its production. The only thing we note is that the products made using this technology are superior to home-made ones in terms of quality characteristics. And, accordingly, they will have a longer service life.

Vibration casting technology

This production method can be categorized as "do it yourself". True, for this you have to make a vibrating table. About it a little lower, and now we will consider the principle of the production of paving slabs by this method. First, you need to acquire molds for the production of tiles. What does the market offer today?

Molds for DIY paving slabs

There is no need to talk about dimensions and geometric shape here. In this regard, the choice is huge, and each consumer will find for himself the option that will satisfy him in all respects. The choice is based on the material from which the molds are made. Manufacturers today offer three varieties:

1. it polyurethane molds for making tiles or paving stones that can be used up to 100 cycles. They are well suited for those who decide to carry out a small volume of tiles.
2. Plastic. These molds can handle up to 250 revolutions.
3. Made of special plastic type rubber that can withstand more than 500 cycles.

It is not a problem to buy molds for paving slabs today. The main thing is to make your choice. For small volumes, polyurethane is suitable. For example, if you buy five, you can make 500 tiles, which is a lot. In addition, molds made from this polymer are very cheap, so they will not greatly affect the cost of the final product.

Technology for the production of paving slabs by vibration casting

So, for this you need a vibrating table, on which the forms are installed. A standard cement mortar is poured into them, to which plasticizers and pigments are added. The main requirement for paving slabs is full body color.

The vibrating table turns on. Inside the mold, the solution is evenly distributed throughout the entire volume, while all the components are mixed even better, the air comes out, and it is he who causes the deterioration of the quality of the product. Cement milk moves and concentrates at the walls of the mold. In the process of vibration, the tiles are smooth and even in terms of geometry. The most difficult thing is to remove the finished product from the formwork. Therefore, this method is proposed - the tile, along with the form, is immersed in hot water(not lower than + 40 ° С), plastic or rubber becomes soft, which makes it possible to extract the finished paving material without any problems.

In the same way, double tiles can be made, in which the lower part is ordinary gray cement mortar, the upper part is colored. For this, a colored mixture is first poured into the mold, and after 30 seconds - a gray one. After 30-40 seconds, you can turn on the vibrating table.

Attention! The paving slabs made by vibrocasting must be in shape for two days. Only then can the stripping be done.

How to make a vibrating table for paving slabs with your own hands: photos, videos and drawings

The drawing below shows what the vibrating table is assembled from. In fact, these are two separate structures, which are connected to each other by springs. The lower table has a standard shape with four legs and a reinforced base, because it must withstand significant loads not only from vibration, but also from the molds located on the upper table with cement mortar in them. The top table is a kind of trough with small sides.

Now for the drive, which is supposed to create vibration. There are a lot of different options here:

1. There are special vibrators that are attached to the top of the vibrating table (to the bottom surface). An eccentric has already been inserted into their design, which creates vibrations. This is the most convenient option, but expensive because the vibrator is not cheap.

   

2. You can use an electric grinder, on the shaft of which two loads offset relative to each other and the center of rotation are installed. It is the latter that create the displacement of the device itself, due to which the vibration of the entire structure occurs.

   

3. Any motor that is unbalanced can be used. For example, as shown in the photo below, you can use several nuts welded to each other, mounted on the motor shaft. Instead of a pyramid, you can install any weight, the main thing is that it is located relative to the axis of rotation on one side.

   

4. A separate eccentric can be made in the form of a shaft mounted in two bearings. This structure is attached to top table... In this case, the shaft must be unbalanced. The rotation of the eccentric will be transmitted by an electric motor (here you can choose any), which is installed on the structure of the lower table (the place does not matter). Most often, a belt is taken as a rotation transmission element.

   

Be sure to watch the video, which tells how the vibrating table was made from a profiled pipe.

Advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs made using different technologies

The table shows that the paving slabs produced by vibrocompression are better than homemade ones in all respects. Let's add here the exact geometric shapes, therefore, it is easier to work with such tiles. Although it has one drawback - it is difficult to cut such a stone, it is too strong.

Step-by-step instructions for making paving slabs with your own hands at home

First of all, you need to choose a shape for paving slabs, which, as already mentioned, has different sizes, traditionally it is a size of 500 × 500 × 50 mm. We will deal with this particular form. But let us first designate from which solution the product will be poured.

Most often, a recipe consists of several standard components:

• cement M500;
• a mixture of crushed stone and sand in a 1: 1 ratio, where crushed stone of 5-10 mm fraction is used;
• pigment;
• plasticizer.

As for the latter, the market today offers a huge assortment. These are both dry and liquid additives. The main thing is to accurately maintain the concentration of the plasticizer relative. The dry additive is added to the solution in a ratio of 0.7% by weight of the cement.

To prepare the solution at home, you will need an ordinary construction mixer. You can knead in a bucket, taking into account the volume of the required solution, so that it is enough for the manufacture of tiles located on a vibrating table. For example, if there are only four tiles on the table, then the minimum batch size should be enough to fill four forms.

Photo	Description of work
	The cement mortar is laid out according to the forms.
	The vibrating table turns on. Under the influence of vibration, the solution begins to take on its dimensions inside the form.
	If necessary, the solution is added to the molds.
	As soon as the solution fills with itself completely inner space forms, equipment can be turned off.
	The next step is drying. This process can be done naturally. It is impossible for the rays of the sun to fall on the tiles, it is good if the room is ventilated. It is even better if the process is carried out outdoors under a canopy. The main task is the horizontal arrangement of the forms filled with cement mortar.
	The last stage is de-molding. The form with the tiles is turned over and the edges of the form and corners begin to bend, gradually removing it completely.

DIY step-by-step instructions for laying paving slabs

With the seeming simplicity of laying tiles, paving stones or with your own hands, this is actually a process that requires a special approach. Therefore, knowledge of the nuances will help to carry out the installation correctly.

Photo	Description of work
	The sod is removed, on which the paving slabs will be laid.
	Curbs are exposed that will form the boundaries of the sidewalk or site. They are installed on sand-cement mixture... A prerequisite is placing each border horizontally, for which a long rule is used.
	Paving slabs are laid on the sand, so it is necessary to fill the space between the curbs with this bulk material... The sand must be compacted well. Please note that the thickness of the applied layer should fill the space so that there is room for laying the tiles in height, flush with the curbs.
	Now a mixture of sand and cement is being prepared in a ratio of 1: 5, which is poured over sand pillow... Paving slabs will be laid on it. This layer must be leveled and tamped in order to exclude subsidence of the tiles.
	You can start laying. It is better to do this from the corner of the site.
	They laid down the tiles, knocked on them with a mallet to press down on the flooring.
	A prerequisite is to check each laid element for horizontalness. For this, a building level is used.

Thus, the entire site or sidewalk is assembled, it is imperative that all flooring elements are level checked among themselves.

Attention! Even at the stage of filling the sand cushion, care must be taken to ensure that finishing was a bit with a bias. This is done so that rain or melt water does not stagnate in the finished area.

We also offer you to get acquainted with the video - how to properly lay the paving slabs.

And two more points:

1. If possible, then the laid material should be tamped using a vibrating table.
2. Between the elements it is necessary to sprinkle a mixture of sand and cement in a 1: 1 ratio, which will fill the gaps between the tiles. This will give stability to the entire structure.

Alternative technology

Today it is possible to solve the problem of finishing sidewalks and areas more in a simple way... To do this, you will have to purchase a special form, consisting of several cells that form the paving slabs. In this case, we are not talking about vibration casting, because the solution is poured at the place of installation of the tiles. That is, right on the tracks or platforms. But this technology of laying paving slabs also belongs to the category of "do it yourself", because the elements themselves will be poured directly by the owner of the site.

The formwork, which is sold specifically for this technology, does not determine the size of the paving slabs, because there is a huge assortment in terms of a variety of shapes. So that you understand what is at stake, look at the photo. Although we must pay tribute that the cells can be geometric shapes: rectangles, ovals, circles and others.

The very same technology in terms of preparation is carried out in the same way as described above with the laying of the finished product. That is, a sand base is being prepared, curbs are installed. After that, the form is laid in place, leveled, and cement mortar is poured into it. De-molding is performed two days later. As you can see, it takes two days to dry, which means that to increase the speed of work, you will have to acquire several forms.

The cost of paving slabs from the manufacturer

It is not a problem to buy paving slabs today. The market is just overwhelmed with products different forms and sizes, colors and shades. Depending on the amount used for making cement mortar, on the basis of one element, the cost price is calculated, and therefore the price of paving slabs.

Photo	Size, mm	price, rub.
	500 × 200 × 50 - curb.	83
	300 × 300 × 50 - Gray Florida.	56
	500 × 500 × 50 - 12 bricks.	140

We add that paving slabs from the manufacturer are not only a material made from cement mortar. This and ceramic tiles in the form of bricks, the manufacture of which is impossible with your own hands. The model of such an element called "Lode BRUNIS" brown and dimensions 200 × 100 × 52 mm costs 45 rubles. The price of cement paving slabs with dimensions of 400 × 400 × 40 mm is 65 rubles.

How to check the quality of finished tiles

It is almost impossible to visually determine whether the tiles are of high quality or not. But there are some tricks that will help you choose more or less quality material:

1. Tap it. If the sound is resonant, then the density of the tiles is high. Accordingly, the strength is at the proper level, the product is well dried.
2. Bright color is a sign a large number introduced pigments. And they lower the quality characteristics of the material.
3. If on a cut the color is located only in the upper part of the product, then there is a high probability that the color will fade or fade over time. The pigment should be evenly distributed over the entire body of the tile.
4. The absence of bubbles and cracks is also a sign of quality.
5. The presence of a certificate indicates that the production is established according to standards or technical specifications that are registered with government agencies.

So, we have sorted out the topic of production and installation of paving slabs. If you have any questions, we are ready to answer them. Contact us in the comments.