Waterproofing the floor over the ground is mandatory to increase the service life of a reinforced concrete screed. Without a hydrobarrier, soil moisture penetrates into the structure by capillary, which leads to the opening of microcracks in the concrete and corrosion of the reinforcement inside it.

Unlike foundations and grillages, which can be protected from moisture by all known methods, waterproofing of a concrete floor on the ground is made with a limited number of materials:

• membranes;
• roll welded or glued insulation;
• polymer films;
• penetrating mixtures.

This is due to the construction of the floor on the ground:

• waterproofing materials are laid on top of the concrete;
• on one side, this screed provides a smooth, rigid surface that allows high-quality sealing of roofing material or Bikrost at the joints;
• membranes and films are not torn from the sharp edges of crushed stone, do not fall into the sand when workers walk;
• on the other hand, from below, the footing protects the waterproofing layer and the floor screed located above it on the ground.

The location of the waterproofing layer inside the floor on the ground.

The weak point of the structure is the junction of the foundation with the foundation (grillage or plinth). The horizontal layer of waterproofing under the floor along the ground should be continuous and smoothly transition into a vertical level, protecting the screed from the ends along the entire height.

The specified conditions are only met when using the following materials:

• membranes and films - they line the surface of the foundation, the edges are brought onto the side edges of the foundation to the desired height;
• roll waterproofing - similar to the previous case, with the only amendment - bituminous materials are fused or glued with mastics to the indicated surfaces;
• penetrating mixtures - added to concrete during its manufacture or applied to the floor on the ground after curing, change the structure structural material across the entire thickness of the screed, making it waterproof.

Waterproofing plasters and coating mastics are useless in this case. They can protect the horizontal surface of the foundation, but when moving to the side surfaces of the foundation, the continuity of the layer will inevitably be broken, since the floor is separated from the base by a damping layer along the ground and is a floating independent screed.

Membranes

They are made only of high-density polyethylene, have profiling. The protrusions on the outside (2 cm spikes) are intended for glueless interlocking of strips of material when they overlap each other. The opposite side (front) contains bituminous mass.

Profiled membranes are expensive, but they do not require a foundation layer. Due to the high density and thickness of the membrane (0.5 - 2 mm), the sharp edges of crushed stone are not capable of tearing the material.

Films

They are classified as flat film membranes, must be stacked in two layers, made of several materials:

• PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
• TPO - polyolefin;
• HDPE, LDPE - high and low density polyethylene, respectively.

Films from 0.2 mm are suitable for floors on the ground, at the joints a minimum of 15 cm overlap is required, tightness is achieved by welding or gluing the sheets. Mechanical strength very low, therefore the films are laid only on top of the footing.

Important! Only vapor barrier membranes can be used, i.e. those that do not allow water to pass through in a liquid and gaseous state, more precisely, not just waterproofing should be done, but waterproofing.

Roll materials

Most often, roll-up waterproofing is classified according to the base material:

• cardboard - roofing material, glassine, rubemast;
• polyester - fiber made from polyester resins for Premium class insulation;
• fiberglass is a highly elastic base, however, it is prone to delamination after 5 - 7 years of operation in aggressive environments;
• fiberglass is a fragile material, but it is cheaper than other analogs, in the cake the floor is protected on both sides along the ground, therefore it has a satisfactory resource.

A bituminous layer and dusting of high-strength non-metallic materials with crumbs can be present on one or both sides.

Some manufacturers produce roll insulation without a base. For example, TechnoNIKOL has a “Floor waterproofing” product with a self-adhesive layer, consisting entirely of a bituminous coating.

Penetrating compounds

Among manufacturers, the leader is Penetron, which produces a range of materials for the manufacture and repair of floor waterproofing on the ground:

• Admix - dry mix for adding to concrete when mixing it;
• Penetron is also a dry mixture for preparing a penetrating solution, applied with a brush, increases the moisture resistance of a structural material by 8 units (for example, from W0 to W8).

Regardless of the method of application, Penetron products (and their counterparts in less popular brands) react with cement stone, increase its strength and moisture resistance throughout the life of the supporting structure.

Moreover, a chipped piece of concrete treated with Penetron will also retain these properties until complete destruction. The only drawback is the price of penetrating insulation materials. For example, when using the Admix additive, the cost of concrete will increase by 300% at least.

Technologies

The above floating floor protection materials are applied different ways... Therefore, depending on the construction budget, you should choose the right technology.

Fusing

Since in 75% of cases roll waterproofing materials are traditionally used, the fusion technology is used most often:

• the dried concrete is dedusted and impregnated with a bituminous primer;
• pieces of Bikrost, Technonikol, roofing material, Steklohydroizol or any other roll material are cut in advance and laid on the floor on the ground;
• the lower bituminous layer is heated by the torch of the burner, the piece is fused onto the footing, the edges are brought onto the basement or foundation to the height of the screed;
• the following pieces are overlapped with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm.

Fusion of roll insulation onto the foundation.

Advice! In wet soils, a two-layer insulation should be made with a 90-degree shift in the direction of the sheets.

Pasting

Roll materials, polymer films and membranes can be adhered to hot or cold bituminous, epoxy or polymer mastics... Some materials have their own adhesive layer, which reduces labor costs, but increases the estimate of the floor on the ground, since they are more expensive than conventional rolls.

Pasting is carried out in 1 - 2 layers, depending on the level of soil on the site and the material of the underlying floor layer on the ground:

• sand is a technogenic layer in which capillary absorption of soil moisture is possible;
• there is no such effect in crushed stone, however, the material is more expensive than sand, it is more difficult to compact it manually.

To reduce the cost of building a floor on the ground, instead of a foundation, the following methods are used:

• the surface of the compacted crushed stone is leveled with moistened and compacted sand, the layer thickness should be at least twice as large as the coarse fraction of crushed stone (for example, 8 cm for the 20/40 fraction);
• the crushed stone base is spilled with cement laitance, binding and leveling the surface, preventing the absorption of a similar product from concrete when the floor itself is poured over the ground.

Important! Films, membranes and roll materials are not a damping layer of a floating screed, although they run vertically to its entire thickness. Therefore, the perimeter of the basement, grillage or foundation must be pasted over with a special tape additionally, or a vertically installed strip of extruded polystyrene foam must be used.

Penetrating mixtures

Volumetric waterproofing is carried out in several different ways:

The first technology is more appropriate when repairing a floor on the ground to improve its waterproofing characteristics. The second technique allows you to avoid pouring a foundation when making a floor on the ground.

Thus, any of these methods can be selected to isolate the floor from soil moisture along the ground, taking into account the soil conditions, the construction of the floor pie and the available budget.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction crews and firms. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It is FREE and non-binding.

When self-erection country house on strip foundation in areas with a low location of the groundwater level, it makes sense to carry out a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands, since this technology is the fastest, most economical and allows you to do without the use of special equipment.

In addition, such a floor structure has a higher reliability and durability than floors on the ground without concrete, and does not require additional maintenance during operation.

Arrangement of a concrete floor requires a certain technique.

Features of laying the floor on the ground

In order to study this issue in detail, this article will consider the device of a concrete floor on the ground in residential buildings with a strip foundation.

In addition, the reader will be asked detailed instructions, which presents the technology of a concrete floor on the ground with step by step description fulfillment of all technological stages of construction.

Sectional diagram of a concrete floor.

Preparatory work

It is recommended to start work on the arrangement of the floor after the walls of the building are erected, the window and door openings are closed and the roof is installed, and the average daily ambient temperature will not fall below + 5 ° C.

Before pouring the concrete floor onto the ground, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion.

1. Clean the land plot inside the building from construction debris, and remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 200-300 mm, after which the ground surface is tamped using a manual rammer or vibrating plate.
2. Along the inner perimeter of the walls of the building, markup, outlining the zero mark of the subfloor... Using the water level, check that the zero mark is at the same height in all rooms.
3. On compacted soil, perform sand and gravel filling, which consists of a gravel layer 50 mm thick and a sand layer 100-150 mm thick.
4. Moisten the surface of the pillow with plenty of water, tamp it, then pour a thin layer of crushed stone with a particle size of 40-60 mm.
5. Lightly sprinkle the crushed stone with sand, then moisten with water and tamp again.

The photo shows the pouring of reinforced monolithic slab.

Advice! When filling a sand and gravel cushion, it is necessary to control with building level so that all backfill layers are strictly parallel to the horizon.

Pouring a monolithic slab

The next stage of construction is the manufacture of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which will perform load-bearing functions and take on all the main load on the floor. For this reason, it must be reinforced. steel mesh, and its thickness should be at least 80-100 mm.

1. On the sand and gravel cushion, lay a waterproofing made of thick plastic film so that it goes over the walls to a height of at least 500 mm.
2. On low spacers, lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor so that at the joints it has an overlap of at least 100 mm.
3. Prepare a concrete solution and distribute it evenly over the entire area of ​​the room in a layer not less than 80 mm thick.
4. Using a level, by measuring the distance to the marks of the finished floor, check that the poured surface is strictly horizontal.

After the mortar has set, the surface must be left for at least one week until the concrete has completely hardened.

Diamond drilling of holes in concrete using a special power tool.

Warming and waterproofing

The concrete floor, in contact with the ground, is a source of moisture and cold penetration, therefore, in order to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, careful heat and waterproofing of the concrete floor along the ground is necessary.

1. A thick plastic wrap can be used as waterproofing, but it is best to cover the surface of a monolithic slab with a layer of hot liquid bitumen.
2. Thermal insulation can be done in two ways. In the first case, a layer of blast furnace slag or expanded clay 100-200 mm thick is poured over the entire surface of the slab, but this material is hygroscopic and can absorb moisture.
3. The second option is considered more acceptable and consists in laying boards of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with a thickness of 50-100 mm on the floor.
4. Expanded clay backfill must be distributed evenly, and the EPSP boards must be laid tightly, without gaps on the floor and secured with dowels with wide plastic washers.
5. It is recommended to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation made of a thick polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns, on top of which a reinforcing mesh is laid.

Laying of sheet EPS.

Advice! When making a concrete floor in a garage on the ground, you can do without thermal insulation, however, high-quality waterproofing must be performed in any case.

Installation of finishing screed

The finishing screed is used to evenly distribute the load and lay the finished floor covering ( ceramic tile, linoleum, laminate), so it must have the same thickness and an even, uniform surface.

The quality of this stage of work should be given Special attention, because the cost of rework, in the event of a technology violation, may be too high.

1. With the help of cement or plaster mortar, install the guide rails of the beacons that determine the upper mark of the subfloor level over the entire area of ​​the room at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other.
2. Starting from the far corner of the room, fill each floor area, evenly distributing the cement-sand mortar over the entire surface of the filled area.
3. To do this, you need to use a metal or wooden rule, moving it with vibrating movements along the guide beacons.
4. Thus, moving from one area to another, it is necessary to fill the entire room, which is recommended to be completed in one working day.
5. After setting concrete mortar it is necessary to remove the guide beacons, and wipe the resulting cracks with fresh cement-sand mortar.

At the end of this operation, the room must be left for several days until it finally hardens and dries. cement mortar... After 2-3 weeks, the floor surface must be primed. For this purpose, it is best to use an epoxy or polyurethane concrete primer, which must be applied with a construction roller.

Pouring a fine screed along the lighthouses.

Note! Penetrating soil for concrete floors, by binding particles of sand and cement, increases its strength, and also serves as additional waterproofing.

Solution preparation

Table 1 shows the proportions of building materials for the manufacture of cement-sand and concrete mortars.

Table 1.

No. Name of components Number of components Density of concrete
kg / m3 Concrete grade
kg / cm2 1 Cement, kg
Sand quartz m3 (kg)
Water, l. 240
1,15 (1950)
90 ... 130 2200 130 2 Cement, kg
Quartz sand. m3 (kg)
Dolomite or limestone crushed stone, m3 (kg)
Water, l 200
0,54 (920)
0,65 (980)
90…130 2100 150

• In clause 1, the recipe for the manufacture of a cement-sand mortar for a finishing screed is indicated.
• In clause 2, the recipe for making a concrete solution for pouring a monolithic slab is indicated.

Self-preparation of concrete mortar.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that self-production concrete floor in country house quite within the power of almost anyone home master(find out here how to repair cracks in concrete).

To get more information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on our site.

During the operation of the house, excessive moisture can cause irreparable damage to its structure. If in apartment buildings waterproofing the floor is necessary only in order not to flood the neighbors from below in the event of a pipe break, then waterproofing the floor in a private house is an outrageous necessity. The water contained in the soil rises up the capillaries and, penetrating into the room, changes the microclimate in it and violates the integrity and structure of the floor and foundation of the building. Acids, alkalis and salts dissolved in water have a negative effect on wood and concrete. To protect the floors in the house from negative impact water, it is necessary to perform a number of works. We will talk about which ones in this article.

For waterproofing floors on the ground, it is necessary to start with backfilling even at the construction stage

Floor waterproofing on the ground

In private houses, the floor on the ground floor is equipped directly over the ground, which causes some difficulties in providing protection from moisture.

Rising through capillaries from deep soil layers, water can penetrate into the structure of wood or concrete, saturating it with moisture. In addition to the destructive effect of salts in water, there is another negative factor. Moisture-saturated wood or concrete, freezing and then thawing, loses its integrity: air bubbles form in the concrete, and the wood begins to rot, which will further lead to destruction.

That is why all work on waterproofing the floor does not begin with the use of newfangled modern materials, but with the correct equipment of the "pillow" under the building.

Important! Waterproofing the floor on the ground must be done during the construction phase. In an already operated building, all attempts to waterproof the floor will be in the nature of "half measures" that do not bring 100% of the result.

The technology of performing "backfilling" to ensure high-quality waterproofing:

• We carefully tamp the soil at the bottom of the pit under the building;
• We fill in crushed stone with a fraction of 30 - 50 mm (coarse) with a layer of 7 cm to 10 cm or more;
• We tamp the crushed stone;
• We fill up the sand with a layer of 7 - 10 cm. You can use any: river, ravine (quarry).
• Thoroughly ram the sand.

By performing such a filling, we create wide air pockets, interrupting the capillary rise of water upward. On how carefully the bedding layers are compacted, its ability to not let water through will depend.

Sometimes, for safety reasons, large stones are first laid on the compacted soil at the bottom of the pit, only then crushed stone. This method also takes place. The main thing is to tamp well.

Important! It is impossible to replace the layer of crushed stone in the backfill with expanded clay, since the latter collects water and swells. But if the groundwater is very far away, the soil is constantly dry, then expanded clay can be used for filling. In this case, the entire bedding will not perform the function of waterproofing, but only a high-quality foundation.

The above-described "backfill" is required if the groundwater level is above 2 m. otherwise it is optional, but desirable - as a safety net.

After completing the pillow, there are two ways: to make a wooden floor on the logs or a concrete floor. Their waterproofing technology is different.

Waterproofing wooden floor

To arrange a wooden floor, it is necessary to erect support posts under the logs. They can be made of bricks or monolithic concrete poured into the formwork.

After the concrete has dried, the surface of the posts should be treated coating waterproofing from all sides. On top of the posts you can lay roll material, for example, roofing material. Thus, we will protect the lags at the junctions to support pillars from the influence of moisture.

After laying the logs, it is necessary to equip a rough floor. To do this, you can use thick sheets of moisture-resistant plywood and nail them to the logs from the bottom side. Or you can make a traditional one - a plank rough floor.

Sub-floor waterproofing looks like this:

• If we use moisture-resistant plywood, it itself will already perform some functions of waterproofing;

Subfloor subfloor made of waterproof plywood can be waterproofed with a thick polyethylene film

• We lay a layer of roll film waterproofing on the plywood. For example, 200 micron polyethylene film or diffuse membranes. Be sure to lay with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, gluing the joints with tape. We put insulation on top.
• We lay the rough plank floor on the logs.

We also lay a polyethylene film for waterproofing on the rough wooden floor.

• We put plastic wrap on the rough floor again, we make a 20 cm overlap on the walls.
• As additional thermal insulation, we lay a layer of foamed polyethylene, which also has some waterproofing properties.

This completes the work to ensure the waterproofing of the wooden floor. Even in the technology described above, provided that the sheets of moisture-resistant plywood were laid, and on them - plastic film, laying the plastic film on the sub-floor is an additional measure. may serve as an additional measure.

Scheme of arrangement of a concrete floor with layers of waterproofing

Arrangement of a concrete floor on the ground is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to create monolithic structure in moving ground conditions. After completing the "pillow", you should make a rough screed. There are two ways to do this.

First option.

On top of the sand, which is the finishing layer of "backfill", pour a layer of fine gravel. Then knead a cement-sand mortar of slightly liquid consistency and pour gravel with it, so that a layer of rough screed forms at least 3 - 5 cm on top.

After the concrete has dried, lay a roll of waterproofing on it in two layers, for example, roofing felt or roofing felt, without any dusting. Carefully glue all joints with a gas burner.

Then install thermal insulation and apply a fine screed.

Second option.

Spread a 200 micron thick plastic wrap on top of the sand. Smooth it out and glue all joints well with tape. In this case, it is necessary to act very carefully so as not to tear the film.

On top of the film, make a rough screed from cement-sand mixture(normal consistency). This layer is also called "lean concrete", as it is only needed for waterproofing. The layer should be 5 - 7 cm thick. For the preparation of the solution, crushed stone of fraction 5 - 10 mm (fine) is used, sand - only river sand.

For waterproofing a concrete floor, roll waterproofing materials can be spread on the rough screed.

On the rough screed, you can also spread a layer of waterproofing (roofing felt or PVC membrane). Insulation is laid on top, then a finishing screed.

The above is quite enough to ensure high-quality waterproofing in most cases, but there are situations when additional waterproofing is required.

Do I need additional waterproofing of the floor

When groundwater is too close to the surface of the earth, additional measures may be required to protect it from it. It is possible to determine whether additional waterproofing is really needed by making the appropriate calculations. This is done by specialized companies that carry out house construction projects. Soil analyzes are taken, water level measurements at different times of the year, and a verdict is made based on the data obtained.

Additional works to ensure floor waterproofing:

• We ram the soil base;
• We put a layer of oily clay or roofing material in 2 layers;
• We lay crushed stone and sand;
• We saturate the layers of crushed stone and sand with bitumen;
• We lay a rough screed made of "lean concrete";
• We carry out waterproofing of the subfloor with roll material or coating mastics.
• We lay the vapor barrier.

The measures taken will be quite enough to ensure high-quality waterproofing of the floor in conditions of close moisture.

Waterproofing the kitchen floor

The floor in the kitchen is exposed to moisture not only from below - from the ground, but also from above - during washing, cooking and other kitchen work, a lot of water gets on the floor.

Therefore, it is necessary to protect the floor not only from below, as it was written above, but also from above.

The principle of waterproofing the floor in the kitchen largely depends on the finish of the floor covering.

It is impractical to equip a wooden floor in the kitchen, as it is most susceptible to moisture, and it will be difficult to protect it. If it is decided to lay parquet in the kitchen, parquet board or a solid board, you should open their surface with a waterproof varnish.

For additional waterproofing, the kitchen floor can be treated with concrete base painting material

If it is planned to use linoleum as a finishing coating in the kitchen, then the concrete base on which it is laid should be treated with a waterproofing material, for example, by painting or coating. Then put the linoleum on the glue. In this case, linoleum itself will act as a waterproofing material.

Ceramic tiles also have water-repellent properties, but as a safety net, it will not be superfluous to process concrete screed bitumen-polymer mastics, paints or in another way. And for better adhesion of the tile adhesive to the base on top of the waterproofing, it is necessary to impregnate with a special primer.

Waterproofing the floor in a private house is a very responsible business. If you do not do this on time and efficiently, over time, fungus and other mold may appear, which cannot be removed. And the structure of the whole house will gradually collapse. Excessive humidity inside the room, which leads to frequent allergies and other diseases, needless to say. It is better to think over everything and complete it on time than to rebuild and repair it later.

Clay floors are the oldest type of flooring and are now popular again. True, only among a narrow circle of admirers of natural buildings. Immediately, we note that in all physical, technological and operational indicators, earthen floors are much inferior to widespread technologies. The construction of such floors requires great physical effort, a lot of time and deep knowledge of ancient technologies. Before talking about the methods of waterproofing the earthen floor, you need to get acquainted with the technology of their manufacture. This knowledge will help developers understand the weaknesses of the structure and choose from several waterproofing methods the most appropriate in a particular case.

In special articles about earthen floors, you can find a fairly large list of their advantages. But are all the characteristics true? Let's take a closer look at some of them.

1. Availability... This is motivated by the fact that there is no problem to find clay, it costs nothing, etc. What is it really? Not all clay is suitable, but only clean, it is not so easy to find it. Often the material lies at a rather great depth, it is necessary to dig open pits, for this you need to attract expensive earth-moving equipment. These costs should be added to the rental of dump trucks and the total amount is no longer so available to developers.

   

2. Cheapness... Again, lovers of natural houses argue this advantage with free clay. But here, too, everything is not so simple. Firstly, in addition to clay, you will need clean sand, gravel, waterproofing materials, means for finishing... Secondly, it is better to use mechanical machines for ramming, and you will have to pay for them. Another significant expense item is the finishing of the earthen floor. The clay is covered with several layers of natural oil and wax. And their cost is much higher than the prices of the most modern and quality paints... And the last big expense item is that repairing earthen floors after mechanical damage or flooding will take not only a lot of time, but also money.

   

   

3. Ease of pouring the floor... We will not now consider the issue of the technology for making an adobe clay solution, we will talk about this below. Let's talk about the "ease of filling" from the point of view of an ordinary builder. Earthen floors can only be done after the building has been brought under the roof, otherwise the sediment will destroy all work. Before starting the installation of an earthen floor, you need to prepare pits for them, then take out the earth, bring in sand and gravel, tamp them, make waterproofing and only after that fill the clay floor. Let's calculate the approximate amount of work for a small house with a total area of ​​100 m 2. According to the technology, the depth of the pit is 50-60 cm, to facilitate calculations, we will take a depth of 50 cm.After simple arithmetic calculations, we will determine the volume earthworks: 100 m 2 × 0.5 m = 50 m 3... That is how much land you need to dig with a shovel and take out with a wheelbarrow along a wooden gangway, because the house should be under a roof. The same amount of sand, gravel and clay needs to be delivered, and again from the equipment only a hand wheelbarrow and a shovel. It is easy to guess that such a volume of work takes a lot of time, and if it is not, then you will have to hire teams of builders who do not work for free. If you have free time, then it is more expedient to spend it with greater benefit than running around with a shovel and a wheelbarrow in hand.

   

4. Environmental friendliness... This concept is abused by all construction companies and manufacturers. In principle, there can be no real environmental friendliness. For the manufacture of any product requires energy, but it is not environmentally friendly. In addition, the raw materials used are natural materials... Removing them from the natural environment always harms nature, where is "environmental friendliness" here? We believe that there is no point in using such words, there is a reason to talk about the harmlessness of building materials for the health of residents. According to this indicator, earthen (clay) floors are really harmless. But this is not their unique advantage. Likewise, natural lumber, ceramic tiles, etc. are harmless.

   

5. Clay floor accumulates solar energy ... Yes, it's true, massive floors can accumulate a large number of heat energy and then give it to the room. But these laws of thermodynamics apply to all bodies (materials): brick, concrete, iron, etc.
6. Earthen floors can be made with underfloor heating... It's true, you can. But the question is, is it necessary? Firstly, cracks will necessarily appear on them over time, along which it will be possible to see the layout of the heating system. Secondly, the technology of laying earthen floors prescribes that minimum thickness coverage should be approximately 20 cm. large mass clay has tremendous thermal inertness. It will take several hours to feel the heating effect. Another problem is the relatively high thermal conductivity, due to which heat loss increases. Thermal insulation will have to be installed under the earthen floors, and this not only significantly increases the cost of the structure, but also requires rather complex special construction solutions.

We hope that this information will be useful for those who are planning to make earthen floors.

Types of waterproofing of earthen floors

If for other building materials flooring high humidity is considered an unpleasant, but uncritical physical indicator, then earthen floors with high humidity cannot be exploited at all. In this regard, very great attention should be paid to the issues of their waterproofing. Construction technology recommends using the following materials for waterproofing earthen floors.

Table. Types of materials for waterproofing an earthen floor.

Name	Physical properties and application features
	This type includes polyethylene film, roofing felt and bituminous coatings based on nonwoven materials. They are completely waterproof, universal use. The service life is at least fifty years.
	Has low rates of capillary rise of moisture, for complete waterproofing, a thickness of about 20 cm is sufficient.Using as a single layer of waterproofing is problematic due to the fact that there is a possibility of filling air layers between stones with sand or other material with high capillary conductivity. It is recommended to use only for the arrangement of complex waterproofing of the earthen floor.
	It is used quite often and not only as a waterproofing layer, but also as a base for an earthen floor. The disadvantage is that a layer of washed sand with a thickness of at least 50 centimeters can provide complete waterproofing. This is a lot; in practice, sand is used in conjunction with other materials.

The choice of material for waterproofing earthen floors - important point during their construction, but not decisive. Full compliance with the recommended technologies and waterproofing steps is considered decisive..

Waterproofing technology

For example, consider the technology of making earthen floors with detailed description stages and possible options waterproofing.

Step 1. Preparatory stage... Make a plan of your actions, prepare materials. Laying floors should be done from the farthest room, keep in mind what to transport Construction Materials on ready-made earthen pavements is strictly prohibited. You will have to remove and feed materials through the windows, and this significantly complicates the construction process.

Decide on the nomenclature of waterproofing materials and their quantity. Professional builders it is recommended to use sand with plastic wrap or roofing felt during the arrangement of earthen floors for waterproofing. The thickness of the film is at least 200 microns, it must be laid in at least two layers. Roofing material can be used both ordinary cheap and expensive on nonwovens coated with modified bitumen.

Calculate the volume of sand and clay, if the earthen floor will be prepared from adobe, then you need to prepare the fillers used: wood sawdust, straw, etc. Recommendations for the thickness of each layer of earthen floor will be given in step-by-step instructions. To make the floor you will need straw, sand, clay, natural linseed oil, natural wax, mineral solvent, paint. The earthen floor consists of the following layers.

You can adjust the size of the layers at your discretion, but it is not recommended to reduce the thickness of the clay.

Step 2. Remove excess soil from the room: fertile layer and organic layers. Mark the ground level around the perimeter of the room's foundation.

Zero level is the location of the upper floor surface. From zero level marks down, each dot should indicate the thickness of the corresponding layer of the floor cake. Horizontal lines along the perimeter of the foundation are made with a blue rope, the thickness of the cake is determined by a laser or water level. If you do not have a laser device, then the hydro level can be made independently from an ordinary plastic transparent flexible hose with a diameter of about 5 mm. The length of the hose should be several meters longer than the diagonal of the room.

Important! When filling the hose with water, be careful not to form air locks... If they are, then the readings of the hydro level will be distorted.

Horizontal lines around the perimeter of the foundation should be applied in the following sequence:

• using a tape measure, beat off the dots vertically indicating the thickness of each layer of the cake;
• attach one end of a flexible plastic hose to the first mark;
• step back a few steps and attach the second end of the hose to the summer foundation;
• lower / raise it until the water level at the second end is equal to the first mark;
• place a new mark on the foundation with a pencil. It should be exactly at the water level at the second end.

Using the same algorithm, make a markup around the entire perimeter, and then connect the points located at the same height with horizontal lines. Such a simple marking will allow you to control the height of the layers during the production of work.

Step 3. Level the ground. The difference in height at the extreme points of the room should be ± 2 cm. running meter this value cannot exceed one centimeter. It is recommended to check parameters using a rule or a long level. Remove loose earth from the pit.

Step 4. Bring in crushed stone, the thickness of the layer may fluctuate by several centimeters. Thoroughly compact the crushed stone, you can do it by hand or a mechanical rammer. The second option greatly facilitates and speeds up the process, in addition, it makes it possible to obtain high-quality compaction.

On a note! If you tamp crushed stone by hand, then this should be done in at least two stages. The thickness of each layer is no more than 10 cm, the second is poured only after the final tamping and leveling of the first.

Step 5. If you live in regions with a cold climate, we strongly recommend that you make insulation. To do this, you can use fairly strong polyurethane sheets, the thickness of the thermal insulation is at least 10 cm. Of course, such a floor is already difficult to call natural, but health should come first. By the way, it is possible to lay any waterproofing, including plastic wrap, on flat sheets of insulation, by the way, without fear and additional construction measures. And one more advantage of polyurethane foam - it effectively interrupts the capillary supply of moisture and itself serves as an excellent hydro-barrier. For this option, there is often no need to apply Additional materials for waterproofing the earthen floor.

Step 6. If you do not want to insulate the floor, then a layer of sifted dry sand is applied over the gravel. It is also necessary to ram the material in two stages.

Important! The better the base is tamped, the more better quality and the durability of an earthen floor. Remember that insufficiently compacted layers will naturally shrink over time. Between clay top layer and air chambers are formed by the base. As a result, the floor will bend or crack a little. You will have to repair the surface, and this is not easy. It is not two boards to change, it is necessary to perform a lot of preparatory construction operations and re-restoration front surface earthen floor.

Step 7. If you do not have waterproof insulation, then waterproofing should be laid on the sand. You can use roll modern materials or plastic wrap. There is no need to coat the joints of rolled materials with mastics and glue them - the task of waterproofing is to interrupt the capillary rise of water, and not to restrain direct contact. The bottom layer of the earthen cake should lie above the water table, we have already mentioned this.

On a note! It is much more profitable to use plastic wrap for waterproofing, it is cheaper and allows you to waterproof the entire room in one piece. In terms of reliability, the film is in no way inferior to roll materials, and even surpasses them in terms of service life. Why? The fact is that the main "enemy" of polyethylene is tough ultraviolet radiation... Under its influence, the intermolecular bonds of polymers are gradually destroyed, they lose their plasticity and become brittle. Under the influence of slight bending forces, the film cracks into small pieces. Several layers of earthen floor completely exclude penetration ultraviolet rays, the film works in ideal conditions. Bitumen, on the basis of which most roll waterproofing materials are made, loses its original properties as a result of slow chemical reactions with oxygen. And this one chemical element is present in all layers of the cake, the process of bitumen decomposition proceeds in a continuous mode, albeit slowly.

Step 8. Prepare the first base layer adobe, for its manufacture requires 25% clay from the total volume and 75% sand. Chopped straw (traditional old) or plastic fiber (modern adobe) can be added to harden. The components must be thoroughly mixed with the addition of water until a homogeneous mass is obtained. In consistency, the solution should resemble fatty sour cream. Bring the prepared mass into the room in portions and pour it onto the waterproofing. Level the mass with a rule and grout. If desired, a water or electric heating system can be installed under the floor. But we have already mentioned that cracks can form on the earthen floor.

The thickness of the base layer of adobe is about 10 cm. In a day, deep cracks will appear on it, they must be repaired with clay.

Step 9. After the first layer has dried, the second is poured, and after it dries, the third. In natural houses, the horizontal level of the floor does not play a big role, the parameter is controlled by eye. If you are not confident in your practical skills for leveling the mass or if you want to have an even earthen floor, then you need to level the mixture along the beacons.

In the old days, thick boards served as lighthouses; after the clay solidified, they were not removed. If you want to remove the beacons, then the boards need to be wrapped for a while with plastic wrap. Clay does not stick to it, removing the beacons will not be big problems... In the future, the grooves should be carefully wiped with adobe or clean clay. Remember that the surface of an earthen floor will never be perfectly flat; when grouting, try only to hide the adobe fillers. Small indentations will always occur due to different density material and, as a result, different shrinkage during drying.

A little linseed is used for finishing the surface, the number of coating layers is at least seven. Each layer should dry for 12-18 hours, the exact time depends on the ambient temperature and efficiency natural ventilation... The drying process of the oil can be accelerated. To do this, set it for about a month in the sun, cover the container with gauze. Otherwise, various insects will enter the container. Due to natural weathering, the oil will become thick, before use it must be diluted with an organic solvent.

For improvement appearance after the oil has dried, the floor can be rubbed with natural wax.

Video - Clay floor in the house

Practical recommendations for waterproofing an earthen floor

If you follow all the recommendations described exactly, then the earthen floor can serve for quite a long time.

Video - Earthen floor construction technology

Waterproofing a subgrade is a job that requires accuracy and responsibility. It is possible to mount such floors when the soil on the site is dry, there is no groundwater or they lie deep. It is necessary to take into account the level of precipitation observed in the construction area. The very waterproofing of the floor on the ground does not take much time, but together with it it is carried out concrete pouring... It already takes almost a month to dry.

An example of a common mistake during construction: a leaky joint of a waterproofing floor on the ground with a horizontal waterproofing of a foundation wall.

The advantages of such floors are:

1. Lack of work on laying large and massive slabs, beams. The floor is simply poured with concrete.
2. High quality and durability of the resulting surface.

Of the minuses, it should be noted that the soil requires careful preparation. You cannot just start work on the ground if it is not brought in accordance with all the requirements. Laying a concrete floor on the ground can be carried out by various methods, but the most acceptable of them remains as follows:

1. The subgrade is carefully compacted, after which a layer of sand backfill is applied.
2. The second layer is expanded clay or crushed stone of small and medium fractions.
3. Executed directly.
4. After that, a rough concrete screed is laid.
5. There is a layer vapor barrier material.
6. A heat insulator is mounted.
7. Reinforcement and finishing concrete screed are in progress.
8. Fits the selected flooring, but only after the concrete is completely dry.

This course of work is considered optimal. Even without much experience, such a floor can be made with your own hands, without resorting to the services of specialists.

Substrate preparation and waterproofing of the concrete layer

Scheme of a concrete floor on gravel with waterproofing.

Preparing the soil before waterproofing is the most crucial stage of the work. It is necessary to check that the soil is dry and then compact it. When ready, with the help of sifted river sand the first preparatory layer is poured.

After pouring the sand is slightly moistened, thoroughly compacted.

The second layer is crushed stone of small and medium fractions, it is leveled and compacted. This completes the preparation of the soil surface before waterproofing, it is only necessary to additionally check the horizontal position. This is done using the usual building level.

Waterproofing a concrete floor on the ground is carried out as follows:

1. Bituminous roll material or polymer-based membrane is rolled out on the base, observing the overlap. All strips should go in the same direction, the overlaps are glued with construction tape, which ensures reliable protection from moisture.
2. If the materials have been installed, it is necessary to re-check that there is no damage to the surface. If there are tears, cuts, etc., then such a film is completely unsuitable for use.
3. During installation, you will have to make sure that the film goes on the walls by about 15-20 cm.After installation of the entire floor, small parts will remain above the surface waterproofing material... They are carefully cut with a sharp knife. In some cases, the use of such materials is not possible. You can replace this stage with pouring a concrete layer, for which a completely different type of waterproofing will be used. For this, coating materials are used that completely cover the concrete. This option cannot be called worse or better, since they both have their own characteristics and advantages.

Back to the table of contents

Laying a concrete sub-floor

Rough laying on the ground includes not only screed, but also floor insulation, installation of a vapor barrier layer. It is the rough screed that is the base and security layer for the rest of the floor.

If the technology is violated, the quality of protection will be poor, all work will have to be redone. Such a rough floor on the ground is made of special lean concrete with a class B 7.5-10, crushed stone is used for it with a fraction of 5-20 mm.

If the waterproofing layer is not used separately, then concrete of the M50-75 class can be taken. Such a rough filling under the floor on the ground is simple, its thickness should be only 40-50 mm, the permissible height difference is 4 mm.

The subfloor on the ground is laid in compliance with such stages as:

1. Installation of vapor barrier material. It is best to use polymer-bitumen membranes for this, which are made on the basis of fiberglass, PVC, polyester. All of them are of the required quality.
2. Next comes a layer of insulation, which makes it possible to save heating costs. This method allows you to eliminate heat loss by about 20%, which is already quite a lot. In this case, it is necessary to use materials such as PSB35 foam. If heavy loads are planned, then PSB50 is suitable. So that the foam does not collapse when it interacts with concrete, it is necessary to lay a layer of polyethylene film with an overlap from below and on top. It is important to ensure that the film is free from tears and other defects.
3. Instead of foam, you can use extruded polystyrene foam, which is of great quality. Such materials are perfect for working with floors on the ground, although some experts recommend replacing them with mineral wool... But cotton wool accumulates moisture, so its use is questionable.