Parquet is a favorite flooring for millions of people around the world. Correct polishing and harmoniously varnished floor will give a magnificent grace to the interior and will make the eyes delight every time you enter the hall.

What it is?

Parquet board is a type of wood covering, the laying technology of which is based on gluing several planks of wood material... Grinding or scraping of parquet is polishing and leveling the floor with the help of various improvised and technical means. It is achieved by means of frictional force.

It is worth remembering that for flooring you will need a special coloring material. As for the filler material, it differs from the construction filler.

The article will discuss its main types.

When is it used?

Parquet flooring, especially if it was made from not very quality material, needs periodic updates. If the premises are constantly operated, then such work can be repeated several times a year. These include restoring parquet, removing and replacing parquet boards, updating skirting boards, and fixing holes.

If the floor squeaks, do not endure the excruciating sounds. As a rule, the reasons for this squeak are subsidence of parquet boards, wrong base (parquet underlay), incorrectly laid parquet.

One more frequent problem is the detachment of the parquet. Its main reasons are parquet wear, artificial floor heating, low-quality material, strong mechanical impacts from impacts or prolonged pressure from furniture legs.

To restore a floor yourself, you do not need to have extensive experience in sealing a bulging parquet board. Of course, in order to make good cosmetic repairs or completely renovate the site, it is advisable to have experience in such a business. It would be nice to find a familiar craftsman who can help you remove or modernize the coating.

Floor restoration is a common desire to improve comfort conditions.

Technology features

The process of restoring the floor requires a certain amount of care. After all, haste and lack of instructions can lead to a loss of time and money. The restoration technology is selected depending on the problem, and in some cases, the owner's budget.

If we are talking about an incorrectly selected or placed substrate, you will need to remove the parquet flooring. As for these two factors, they are possible due to the non-professionalism of the masters or with an independent thoughtless installation. Failure to comply with the rules usually leads to such consequences.

In the absence of experience, you need to consult with a specialist in the store. If possible, it is advisable to contact good master... The instruction must be strictly followed. Having saved 30-40 minutes, you can wake up your loved ones with a squeak or throw the board into the trash can ahead of time.

The underlayment is also fundamental when laying parquet flooring. It serves as a shock absorber that softens the pressure of wood against bumps and imperfections on the surface of the screed. Constant pressure will quickly lead to squeaks, wear and tear and, as a result, to the death of your coating. We must not forget about the neighbors who live below. It is the substrate that is the sound insulator. But do not rush to make her choice. Consultants often give incorrect information in order to quickly sell the product. The seller's statement that the thicker the backing, the higher the quality of your flooring, does not carry adequate information, as well as the fact that the backing can brighten up all the screeds.

Contrary to the opinion of many consultants, the roll substrate is considered better than the sheet counterpart.

The base must be level with respect to the deck. Then the substrate 2-3 mm thick will be just right. It must be remembered that a substrate made of any material repeats all surface defects. Various sheets, many types of plywood and various mixtures are used to level the surface.

The type of substrate is chosen at the discretion of the owner. They differ in environmental friendliness, quality and resistance to external factors. In any case, consult with the craftsmen for the maximum technicality of your repair.

Experts believe that in the range of two running meters there should be no deviation from the horizontal by more than 2 mm... V otherwise the board will begin to sink.

The next reason may be a small number of fasteners or their incorrect placement over the area of ​​the laid parquet. Despite following many instructions, some arrogant “masters” try to make their own adjustments. Fasteners should be in places specified by the instructions, their number should not be reduced at the discretion of the owner, if he does not have experience in finishing floors.

A common reason for the need to restore the parquet flooring is the peeling of the upper parts of the parquet, swelling. To eliminate them, you need to identify "sore" spots, mark them with a marker, drill holes and glue the separated layers.

The next defect is holes in the floor, scratches, dents. The reasons become strong mechanical stress, wear and tear of the parquet, frequent use... As a rule, they are poured with a cement-sand or quick-drying mixture. If the distance between the planks is more than 0.5 mm during "drying out", it is customary to speak of complete wear of the parquet. Grinding won't help here. And the embedding can take a lot of time and effort and will not return your floor to its original appearance.

When working with your own hands, you will need gloves, since mortars Irritating to skin on contact.

It is necessary to prepare a finishing spatula, with which local damage is eliminated. Perhaps such an update will help get rid of the squeaky floor as well.

Materials and tools

Having dealt with the cause of the problem, you can start preparing the material and tools. Before repairing, carefully weigh your material capabilities. Often, the business started does not reach the end due to the excessive emotionality of the owners. A floor covered with dust and tools is no better than squeaky parquet. You need to find out the prices in different stores, they can also vary greatly.

Not everyone understands how sanding differs from scraping. Scraping is a kind of ripping out of the surface to compare with irregularities. Grinding is essentially the same scraping, only abrasive materials are used instead of a machine.

You also need to understand what an abrasive material is. This is a surface that has a rough cutting surface. It is intended for manual floor leveling. In our case, we can use it to eliminate local damage or irregularities. The most famous of these is sandpaper. If we are talking about "capital" grinding, then you need a grinder. Otherwise you have to crawl. This is also quite an adequate way, but time consuming.

There are many different grinders out there. Different materials are used for the nozzle. Their surface area may vary. There are grinders that use the dust suction function. Some builders even connect such devices to special vacuum cleaners.

Before you grind the floor, you need to consult with the master, indicating to him the floor area, material, the last time the parquet board has been updated. A sander can be purchased at a tool store, construction equipment, an ordinary hardware store.

Of course, such a solution may not be the best economical option. Therefore, it is better to rent the necessary apparatus. One extra call can save more than one hundred, and perhaps even more than one thousand rubles. Often, large construction stores offer rental grinders and various types of equipment. It is not excluded that this unit can also be found there.

A filler material is also required. It removes cracks and cuts on the floor. Its color must necessarily match the color of the floor. You need to be vigilant when choosing a material. Even the consistency can play important role... After some time of application, it can change color dramatically.

Care must be taken not to smudge the floor with the solutions used.... To protect it, when working with grinding, special varnishes, pastes or gels are used. Based epoxy resin a special technology of "epoxy or polymer flooring" has been developed. A special paste is made on the basis of the resin, which subsequently spreads evenly over the surface and gives the floor an excellent evenness and shine.

If you need to paint the parquet, you need to decide on varnishes or other coloring materials... It is also possible to make tinting based on mixing several tones.

Step-by-step instructions for performing work

When working in commercial or government premises, you should not be free in your ideas. There are often special requirements when working in such places. The children's playroom will have stricter requirements than the usual corridor for the company's customers. In some rooms, wooden surfaces or floors that are too slippery are unacceptable. GOST requirements may leave your efforts unapproved.

The restoration material should be purchased from a large or reputable store. Building mixtures may have a surrogate composition. Counterfeit materials can be extremely toxic and unusable.

In order to properly do this or that work at home, it is necessary to study the instructions as carefully as possible. As mentioned, it is highly desirable to work with someone experienced in parquet restoration. If there is no finishing master nearby, you can attract a builder working in a different direction or even a furniture maker. They are also very well versed in building materials, solutions, know how to work with equipment.

Remove the old varnish before sanding. A sponge dipped in white spirit is useful for this. When working with a grinder, the floor is covered with protective varnishes. Parquet material and some other components affect the choice of the parameters of the device.

After that, an abrasive (emery material) is filled into the machine. The first pass is made with the coarsest abrasive # 40... First, the machine is driven diagonally along the planks. When working with coarse-grained abrasives, it is highly not recommended to press hard on the machine. The paper changes as it wears out.

As each next layer passes, less and less abrasive is taken, and the grinder is shifted by 50% of the drum width. The movement along the fibers begins the second time. The floors, in the base of which the boards enter, are sanded in the direction of the grain. At every stage of the work, you need to monitor the cable. Under no circumstances should it fall under the drum.

If you want to do grinding in four stages, the nozzles from the abrasive are taken in the following order: start with No. 40, then No. 60, then No. 80, and finally No. 100 (No. 120). When sanding in three steps start at # 40, then # 80 and end at # 120. In order to grind efficiently and evenly, the machine must not move quickly. It is forbidden to hold the switched-on grinder above the floor without moving. Otherwise, you can remove excess material.

Before completing the work, the gaps between the planks are putty. This is done with pastes of the appropriate shade or special mixtures. After the putty, it is imperative to wait for them to dry.

The surface of inaccessible places is sanded with a "boot" machine designed for this. Typically, these are places in corners and under pipes.

After all the measures taken, you need to clean the floor with a vacuum cleaner. The first paint coat is applied. For a good finish, the varnish is applied in three layers. When last layer dries, the floors are washed with ordinary soap products to eliminate stickiness. You need to wash it with warm water.

You need to be careful in your work and have the right mood. Careless removal of the top layers of parquet can cause trouble. Perhaps this will not spoil the renovation, but it can partially distort the overall picture of the interior.

Coating preparation

Before grinding, the parquet must be repaired. The surface of the apartment is completely freed from furniture and things, and the floors are thoroughly washed. The condition of the parquet is fully checked. Each bar needs to be tapped. A dull sound that appears when tapping indicates voids that have appeared in the parquet. As a rule, this is due to the peeling of the plank from the base and the formation of a void under it. Planks of this kind need to be drilled.

Parquet glue is used to eliminate cracks. It is poured using a special construction syringe. It is necessary to give a load to the parquet and leave time to dry. As a rule, this is done with a weighty object.

If the parquet has dried drops from adhesives, paints or other stubborn stains, arm yourself with a scraper. Any nails or screws sticking out of the floor must also be removed.

Looping

Today, scraping and sanding are almost synonymous. But if you delve into the exact meaning of these concepts and draw a line, it turns out that the process of shredding is slightly different from grinding.

A distinctive feature of the shredding process is that no abrasive materials are used when working in this way. This is often done manually.

The word "looping" itself got its name from a special device "loop". it hand tool for shredding, which scrapes, but does not harm the wood coating. Its design is very simple - a sharpened metal plate, fixed in the handle. She can work in hard-to-reach places Oh... This process takes a long time. Therefore, you need to carefully weigh your capabilities - assess your budget, the amount of work and find the most rational option.

As already mentioned, all nails and various objects must be completely driven into or removed from the floor. The looping starts from the corner of the room. Further, the movements are made according to the principle of a snake.

First they shoot the most upper layer... It is the dirtiest, its presence is unacceptable for working with putty. After that, they begin to process the seams and holes. The putty must be carried out carefully.

The color of the putty must match the color of the coating. You can continue to cycle only when complete drying is achieved.

Putty

Applying this kind of material can be a good way to restore your floor. It helps to restore the surface and level it. When diluting the putty solution, you must follow the instructions. Failure to comply with the proportions or the addition of its ingredients can lead to a change in the properties of the solution.... Money thrown to the wind, damaged parquet flooring, wasted time, can become a payback for such amateur performance.

Putty materials can be purchased at your regular hardware store. It is important not to forget about paddles, gloves, scrapers and other possible tools.

It is not necessary to have a lot of experience in order to seal the cracks on your own, but it is better to consult with a decorator or construction specialist. He will show you how to putty, give recommendations for mixing the solution.

It is worth remembering that parquet putty is different from building putty. The life span of your parquet depends on the quality, application and choice of material. As a rule, the putty is powdery or made in the form of a paste.

It is of the following types:

• Solvent based. It is easy to work with such a putty. Drying takes place in a short time. Its main component is wood shavings. This allows them to blend with all tree species.
• Acrylic mixtures do not emit toxins, are environmentally friendly, and are often used for grouting.

• Oil putties in the composition contain oil, water and chalk known to everyone from childhood. They have a very long shelf life, but due to their oily consistency, they dry out for a very long time after being applied to the floor and greatly slow down the speed of work.
• Polymer mixtures are environmentally friendly. They are often used in places with high sanitary requirements. They do not have electrostatic properties, therefore they do not attract dust.

Final works

After the end of the work, the room is brought into full order... This is usually done with a vacuum cleaner.

Before applying varnish, the floors are wiped with a special cloth. It is recommended to impregnate the fabric in a solvent.

Sanding is the treatment of wood flooring with different grit sandpaper. This stage of work is performed immediately after removing the damaged top layer of the parquet floor. Due to the fact that operations are often carried out with the same equipment, many are looking for the total cost of scraping and grinding in Moscow.

	GRINDING WORKS	unit	price, rub.
1	Scraping and sanding with a HUMMEL band and angle grinder FLIP	m 2	175,00
2	Scraping and grinding with a drum machine SO-206 and an angle grinder FLIP	m 2	125,00
3	Grinding with TRIO surface grinder	m 2	135,00
4	Grinding of semi-finished varnishes, oil varnishes and paints with a special abrasive	m 2	100,00
5	Parquet filling 1 layer (up to 1 mm)	m 2	120,00
6	Application with "igniting" primer	m 2	120,00
7	1 layer varnish application	m 2	50,00
8	Gel coating in 1 layer	m 2	110,00
9	Applying transparent oil in 1 layer	m 2	100,00
10	Application of colored oil in 1 layer	m 2	200,00
11	Coating with varnish or oil on skirting boards - in two layers	r.m.	60,00
12	Skirting board tinting + 1 layer varnish	r.m.	80,00
13	Interlayer sanding of skirting boards	r.m.	75,00
14	Sanding plinths to wood	r.m.	150,00
15	Dismantling the skirting board	r.m.	50,00
16	Sealing gaps with sealant	r.m.	40,00
17	Device plastic skirting board	r.m.	150,00
18	Arrangement of wooden skirting boards up to 80 mm high	r.m.	250,00
19	Arrangement of a wooden plinth from 80 mm and more	r.m.	320,00
20	Dismantling parquet	r.m.	200,00

* All prices are for work, excluding the cost of consumables. More detailed information is in the price list section.

The Parquet Delo company offers complete list services in the field of repair of various types of parquet. Our specialists perform:

• scraping;
• sanding the floor covering in 3 stages;
• filling seams;
• parquet flooring with varnish is inexpensive and of high quality, as a rule, in three layers;
• finishing polishing.

Grinding stages

The sanding process consists in removing grooves from the floor covering that have formed as a result of the operation of the draw frame. The cost of polishing varnished parquet is indicated in rubles / m2. The specialists of our company perform this "sanding" in three approaches.

Each subsequent time, abrasive nozzles of a finer grain are used. Price per square meter indicated taking into account all stages of work:

• Processing with corundum abrasive P40 - traces from the impact of the draw frame are removed.
• Using P60 abrasive - the irregularities that have arisen at the first stage are smoothed out.
• Processing with P100 grain. If an inexpensive varnishing is carried out further, then such smoothing will be sufficient, but if it is planned to apply oil, then it is necessary to use additionally P120.

Prices per square meter of parquet grinding with the subsequent use of oil will be slightly higher, since it is assumed that additional work, a slight increase is also possible in the case of repairing parquet from exotic wood.

Environmentally friendly clean materials

Guarantee
for all types of work

Favorable prices

We cycle
day and night

Before and after sanding

Slide the divider to see the difference before and after work

Equipment

Masters of the company "Parquet business" use equipment in their work - LAGLER, HUMMEL and FLIP. Basically, the same machines are used for grinding as when removing the upper "spent" layer of a parquet board, only with a finer abrasive. How much the work will cost depends on the area of ​​the room, its configuration (corners, protrusions) and the state of the material.

High-quality wood parquet is a very reliable coating. But even with the most careful and gentle care, the surface becomes uneven over time and visible defects appear on it. Observing competently the installation technology, the owners of apartments and houses have every chance to carry out grinding with their own hands.

What?

The laying of the parquet itself is only the first step in obtaining a quality floor covering. To get the desired effect, it is necessary to do a certain number of measures, for example, level the surface, sand and varnish. The same actions are taken when the old parquet is restored.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding involves the elimination of defects on the floor covering, which contribute to its destruction. For this reason, wood flooring needs to be restored periodically.

Such repair helps:

• remove small flaws;
• free the floor from the old layer of varnish;

• eliminate the creak of loose planks;
• smooth out the height differences between the parquet planks.

When installing new flooring, the surface should be cleaned first. After sanding, the coating becomes smoother and less prone to damage.

Self-sanding of parquet flooring may not help in some situations when:

• the material has dried out and the gaps between the strips have become several millimeters;
• the floor covering is swollen from moisture;

• the main part of the floor is damaged by insects;
• floor surface with large dents and holes.

As a rule, such defects appear in cases where the laying of parquet boards and their operation were incorrect.

When is it used?

The restoration of parquet flooring consists in the renovation of the old wood covering... The main task in parquet repair is to eliminate flaws and improve the appearance of the floor. You can repair and update the surface yourself.

Consider the most common defects that require floor polishing.

• Slots. The main factor in the formation of cracks is the loosening of the parquet boards. Removing gaps is a difficult task due to their appearance throughout the coverage area. Small gaps can be repaired with putty. When visible gaps form in the middle of the planks, and the surface is scratched, then cosmetic repairs are indispensable. If the parquet is not detached from the base, then it is necessary to restore the floor covering.

Otherwise, later the parquet will have to be removed and laid again. The restoration takes place in the following stages: sanding, sanding, filling and filling of irregularities, sanding of the filled floor, final finishing.

• Creak. One of possible reasons squeaking floor may be slats that are not connected to each other, which emit a sound when walking. Also, the flooring squeaks when the parquet peels off the base. One more common reason A squeaky floor can be the absence of a seam between the parquet and the wall. To get rid of this unpleasant sound, part of the parquet is cut to provide a gap.

• Swollen planks. Such indoor problems sometimes appear. The reason for the swollen coating may lie in a violation of the installation technology, when, when laying the floor, they forget to leave gaps from each wall. If the parquet has risen due to contact with water, then first pull out the damaged planks and dry the surface. Then the room temperature is slightly increased. When the surface is completely dry, use a vacuum cleaner to clean the holes that have appeared. After that, new strips are installed, polished and coated with varnish or oil.

• Scratches. Typically, scratches on these surfaces are caused by shoes with sharp heels and furniture rearrangements. When the parquet is made of hardwood and with a reliable protective coating, it is more resistant to mechanical damage.

You can purchase a special oil for the maintenance of your parquet floor. First, dust is removed from the parquet, wet cleaning is carried out, followed by oil. Do not apply a thick layer of oil to prevent the floor from sticking. Initially, such a coating will get dirty faster, but after a while it will become easier to care for the floor.

Technology features

To restore the parquet with your own hands, you must carefully follow the installation technology. The design of this floor covering makes it possible not only to remove local defects, but also to carry out a complete restoration.

Parquet renovation process consists of preparatory stage, deep or coarse sanding, fine processing, filling imperfections and final sanding. Let's study the stages in more detail

• Preparatory stage. After laying the parquet, it is important to carefully inspect and identify damage, such as scratches and dents. These defects can be removed with a putty or special glue. Sanding old wood flooring is more time consuming because every detail must be checked for integrity. The spoiled material is replaced. When the work is finished, the cover is vacuumed and wiped.

• Rough sanding. The downforce of the drum is initially adjusted. These manipulations are done using a screw and wheel balancing. After completing the work, it is recommended to walk through inaccessible places with a grinder.

• Fine grinding. For these works you need a flat sander. It removes defects from the surface.
• Putting. Defects of the restored coating are repaired with a colored wood-imitation putty. If you purchase a special putty liquid, you can make the mixture yourself. After applying this mass, the floor must dry for at least a day.

• Final sanding. To remove excess putty, the surface is sanded with a surface grinder filled with sandpaper. Do this only when the putty is completely solidified.

Tools and materials

For sanding parquet with your own hands, you need special tools and additional consumables:

• Parquet grinder. A grinder is a fairly expensive tool; it can be rented in specialized stores;
• Angle grinder. Most often, this tool is called a grinder. The grinder is used for different works, including polishing her wood covering. To delete old layer varnish, you must use a petal nozzle. It is convenient to grind the parquet with this tool, but during the use of the grinder, a lot of dust and sawdust appears.

• Manual cycle. Useful for scraping parquet in hard-to-reach places. An iron plate is attached to the handle of the instrument. The previous layer of varnish is removed for her, but this is a difficult job;
• Emery cloth. They are cut to the length and width of the shoe, attached to the sole and thus rubbed over the floor. This process is also not easy, but quite feasible;
• Sandpaper. For parquet, you need paper with a grain size of 60 to 120;

• Putty for filling gaps. It must be chosen according to a color that matches the shade of the wood;
• Varnish or high quality oil;
• Gel. It is a white mass that helps fill in small irregularities. Gel is a decorative technique and is not an additional layer to ensure wear resistance or moisture resistance;

• Glue. In the event that some of the wood boards fall through or are loosened, it is possible to use a special parquet adhesive. In the place where the boards bend, holes are made, then these holes are filled with a syringe;
• Revitalizing paste. It is applied with a spatula, has a thick structure. On sale you can find a large color palette, so it will not be difficult to choose the desired shade. Drying of the paste occurs in less than a day. After applying the paste, the desired areas are sanded and varnished;
• Rollers and brushes for coating the surface with varnish or oil;

• Spatulas for applying putty;
• Vacuum cleaner and other consumable: screwdriver, scissors.

Epoxy resin, which itself is colorless, needs tinting. Sometimes, in order to hide the seams of epoxy resin, it is advised to add dye to it. Resin, in contrast to epoxy glue, is more elastic, it is also possible to add it to different hardeners to obtain the desired composition.

Coating preparation

It is recommended to start the process of preparing the surface for sanding by removing the furniture, removing the baseboard and removing the old coating from the door sills. Next, you need to examine the flooring to see the main disadvantages. The floors in the apartment must be cleaned from dust and dirt, nails and screws must be removed. Sanding is a dusty job, so it is advisable to hang windows and doors.

Features of the process at home

To properly sand the floors with your own hands, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions. Simple manipulations with the use of a grinder make it possible to partially remove imperfections from the covered parquet. Work on removing paint and varnish begins with the treatment of identified floor defects.

Looping

To scrape parquet means to carry out actions to renew the old floor covering. It is produced in several stages, which consist in removing the old layer of the wood surface. The final stage is fine sanding, which will help to obtain a smooth canvas for subsequent coating with varnish or wax.

For work, use a certain tool and material.

Do-it-yourself scrapping of the floor begins with primary grinding. Its task is to remove the surface layer - varnish and irregularities. Most often this is done with sandpaper with a grain size of 40 to 80. If the parquet is too old and very worn out, then it is necessary to do these measures twice.

Then the flaws are covered with a putty or a mass prepared from a mixture of PVA glue and wood dust. Before starting scraping, you should pay attention to the joints of the planks; visible gaps need to be repaired. In addition, after the work of the cycles, there are irregularities, it is important to level them with fine grinding. After the putty has dried, the parquet is polished with sandpaper with a grain size of 150 to 240 until a smooth surface is obtained.

Flooring is usually tacked using the following methods:

• The looping is real. Remove the surface layer using a cycle;
• Semi-automatic scraping. When sanding with certain hand materials occurs;

• Semi-professional looping. Parquet is renewed with a professional grinder.

Self-cleaning takes quite a few hours. A loop or blade is useful for this. The blades should be 0.1-0.2 cm wider than the bar to prevent new flaws and ruin the joints.

The top layer is looped from window to door. It is advisable to moisten the parquet first, the moistened wood lends itself to processing faster. It is important to cycle several planks at once. It is better to use a grinder near the baseboards.

When the entire coverage is looped, you should cover up the visible flaws. Then we sand with fine sandpaper to get a perfectly smooth floor.

The damaged coating layer is removed with tools exactly at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. The machine is applied to the parquet only after turning it on, the pressure for scraping over the entire surface is the same.

Grinding differs from scraping in that when grinding, the damaged layer is not cut off, but is rubbed off with an abrasive material. Grinding machines have become more widespread than manual scraper, so this process has come to be called parquet grinding.

Putty

The putty is a versatile paste-like material that is applied to the surface before it is varnished or oiled. It evens out floors and masks surface imperfections.

Often the question arises about the correct pronunciation of this word - putty or putty. Both pronunciations are believed to be correct.

The putty consists of fillers, binders and coloring pigments. Putties are divided into cement, gypsum and polymer.

How to fill up the gaps in the floor depends on many factors, such as the type of wood, the size of the holes and the choice of material for the final coat. It is recommended to purchase a putty and a product for finishing from the same manufacturer.

Before starting to putty the floor covering, you need to remove the dust. After that, putty is applied around the entire perimeter of the floor.

To apply the putty, you can use special stainless steel spatulas, as well as rubber and wooden spatulas. The putty is applied in a thin layer. If it turns out that one layer is not enough, then after it dries, it is worth applying another layer. How much putty will be consumed depends on the condition of the parquet.

Quite often, in order to save the budget, there is a putty of parquet from self-made solutions. Such a solution allows you to make the necessary composition for a specific situation.

Final works

The final stage is a careful sanding and polishing of the parquet. When the putty mixture has completely hardened, then use a fine abrasive to eliminate the imperfections. Next, the floors are vacuumed and varnished or oiled.

The choice of polishing should be based on the original condition of the parquet boards. Polishing agents are divided into matte, semi-gloss and glossy according to the type of surface. By the type of application, manual and machine polishing are distinguished.

One of the good tools to give the parquet gloss and beauty is mastic. It is composed of wax and polymers. After application, a protective layer appears. The mastic is colorless and also tinged. Colorless gives the floor a beautiful shine, while colored gives a certain shade. According to its composition, mastic is divided into water-soluble, water-based, wax and turpentine.

• Water-based emulsion is suitable for all types of parquet. It is applied to a clean floor and after a while I start to rub the parquet with a rag or brush;
• Waterborne excellent for oak flooring. Apply it with a brush, after drying with a soft sponge, remove the residual part of the product and leave the floor to dry. Followed by another layer. After the parquet is dry, it should be polished;

• Wax is optimal for ash and pine products. This mastic is applied with a special brush to the floor that has been previously cleaned of dust;
• Turpentine mastic is used for beech and birch coatings. This mastic contains no water. It is recommended to apply it in two layers.

Varnishing

Parquet varnishing is a great option to preserve the durability of the parquet floor. In this way, the worn-out surface is restored and the wood pattern is preserved. In addition, varnishing strengthens and protects the surface.

Do-it-yourself varnish application is a responsible process. Initially, you need to check that everything necessary tools were in stock.

Before you start varnishing the surface, it is important to mix the jar with varnish well. The varnish is applied in two layers. The process of applying the material is started from window to door. After two hours, a second layer is applied across the previous one. It is important to leave a small passage from the room, due to the fact that the varnish dries from several days to a week.

Parquet varnishes are of several types: water-based, alkyd, polyurethane and urethane-alkyd. The most durable are polyurethane varnishes. And the safest are water ones.

Urethane-alkyd and alkyd varnishes are more economical and stable, but toxic and with a pungent odor.

If the parquet has already been varnished, then it is better to completely remove the varnish from it. If it just became dimmer, then it is enough to grind its surface and cover it with polyurethane varnish.

Nowadays, floor whitening has become popular.

The tinting composition is covered with several layers until the desired shade is achieved. The surface is preliminarily prepared by grinding and removing dust.

Skirting boards should not be forgotten either. In this case, they need to change the color, as well as the entire parquet.

Whitening is carried out using varnish or oil.

Often people are faced with the question of the possibility of painting such a coating with paint. This is quite possible, because parquet is a canvas made of wood, and it is of very high quality.

Typically, painting consists of applying wood stain to the floors to highlight the texture of the material and several varnish coats. This way the tree preserves the drawing, which looks very beautiful. Sometimes there are cases that the parquet must comply colors interior, and it is necessary to remove the previous coating and install a new one, or transform it with paint.

Therefore, the color of the paint can be absolutely any, depending on the wishes and design of the room.

Sanding is a mandatory procedure to give the parquet a presentable look. With its help, you can level a wooden surface, clean up scratches and cracks. Of course, grinding is not done by hand, but with the help of special equipment - grinding machines. Presented on the market a large number of similar units, differing in type of design, purpose, method of action. Let's designate their main specifications for an optimal choice.

There are varieties of parquet grinders great amount, but all of them can be combined into several groups:

• drum - the working surface is represented by a cylindrical shaft on which an abrasive belt (sanding paper) is installed;
• belt - the working surface is formed by an abrasive belt moving between two moving shafts (rollers);
• disc - polish the surface with discs (one or more);
• vibrating - equipped with a vibrating working sole that performs "trowel" movements in the process of grinding;
• eccentric (orbital) - the work sole rotates and vibrates at the same time.

Each of these types of equipment solves its own problems, has features of operation. Let's consider these nuances more clearly.

Drum-type machines

Drum sander is a technique designed mainly for coarse sanding. On the highest level it also copes with scraping - removing the paint layer from the parquet.

The principle of operation of drum machines is based on the rotation of a cylindrical shaft (drum), "started" by an electric motor. An abrasive belt is installed on the shaft. When the drum rotates, it is closely pressed against the wooden surface and "erases" from it a layer of the specified thickness (depending on the grain size of the abrasive on the belt). On average, during the grinding stage, the drum machine removes a layer of 1-1.5 mm from the surface. This is accompanied by the formation of wood dust and sawdust; therefore, most models of drum machines are equipped with dust collectors.

The abrasive belts used for this type of grinder are quite coarse - P24-40. Therefore, they cannot cope with polishing, and after the passage of the drum machine, it is usually necessary to refine other types of machines (disk, vibration, eccentric).

Any drum grinder is a massive unit that moves on wheels. Weight can vary from 70 to 90 kg (on average). The less weight (respectively, and dimensions) of the machine, the easier it is to operate, but its performance may be lower. If work is to be done in an apartment, it is better to use a machine with a lighter weight. For large production areas, oversized units are more suitable.

Performance also directly depends on power. The average value is 2.2 kW. The more power, the stronger the mechanical effect on the surface. And even more so a large drum (with a wide and long abrasive belt) such a machine will be able to "pull".

Belt type machines

Belt sanders are designed for floor pre-sanding, leveling, sanding and scraping.

In appearance, the belt type grinder resembles a miniature crawler tractor. Its working surface is an abrasive tape glued into a ring, which moves between two rotating rollers, like on a conveyor. Belt width - 65-110mm. The sole on which the tape rests is made of a thin metal plate and is complemented by a soft backing.

The speed of rotation of the abrasive belt is in the range of 150-500 m / min. Performance directly depends on this indicator. However, only if the additional speed is supported by increased power. Otherwise, it will not be possible to "press" the fast rotating belt to the floor and the increased speed will not improve the quality of the tool. The optimal speed value - 300 m / min - is achieved at a power of 650-700 W.

In order to "press" the abrasive belt to the surface, the machine structure is equipped with a metal platform of various sizes. Powerful professional models feature a 100mm wide sole for high performance and stability on the ground. For a hobby tool, a width of 75 mm is sufficient. Separately, it is worth mentioning the so-called "electric files" - machines with a very narrow working blade (width from 6 mm), allowing you to get to the most inaccessible places.

The technical characteristics and important features of working with belt sanders are described in the video (for example, the Interskol LShM-76/900 model):

Disc grinders

Typically, disc grinders are used for surface finishing. The working element of this technique is a flat rotating disc on which the abrasive material is fixed.

Disc grinders are classified into:

• Corner (LBM) - well-known manual grinders as well as specialized "boots" machines. In the construction of angle grinders there is one disk rotating parallel to the axis of the tool.
• Disc surface grinders - overall units with 1-3 discs rotating around their own and central axes.

Disc surface grinders

Disc grinders are equipped with one or three discs on which abrasive wheels are attached. The discs rotate around their axis and thus “smooth” the wooden surface. Such a principle of operation, combined with a floating fit of the discs, allows high-quality polishing of the surface after pretreatment with tape or drum machines.

Angle grinders (angle grinders)

LBM is an alternative to expensive surface grinders when processing small surfaces, as well as in hard-to-reach places - under radiators, pipes, in corners and niches, near skirting boards and walls. The working surface of the angle grinder is a flat disc on which an abrasive tool is mounted.

The most affordable angle grinder is the grinder. Flap wheels can be used for coarse sanding. They consist of a rigid base on which strips of sandpaper are fixed in a circle. Fine sanding is best done using the Velcro rubber pad (different grain sizes).

"Boot" - one more manual angle grinder... Its shape resembles a boot with flat base, under which the grinding disc is hidden. Thanks to this design, it is very convenient to use a "boot" to handle areas located close to walls, places under radiators or pipes.

Vibrating grinders

The vibratory sander is a compact universal tool used for coarse and fine grinding of various wooden surfaces, including parquet. In the process of operation, the rectangular sole of the machine vibrates, making reciprocating movements of small amplitude at high speed. With an increase in the stroke amplitude, the grinding speed also increases, but the processing quality decreases.

Sandpaper or abrasive mesh of varying grain size is fixed on the sole of the vibrating sander. The paper can be secured with Velcro or with side clips. Metal clips are used in most designs, as they allow you to securely fix sanding paper (mesh) of any manufacturer on the sole.

The sole - a working element of vibrating grinders - may have different size... The most popular machines with traditional sole dimensions ("standard") are about 100x200 mm. But for narrow, hard-to-reach places, units of the "mini" class with dimensions of about 10x10 mm are more suitable.

Most sander platforms are rectangular or square. A separate class includes devices with a triangular sole. They are designed for processing corners, elements of stairs, surfaces complex shape... Triangular platforms of some models are rotary and removable (for the possibility of installing another platform).

Outsole base budget models most often steel or plastic, and for more expensive analogs it is made of aluminum or magnesium alloys. In any case, a high-quality sole is characterized by a low vibration amplitude when idling (no load). TO work surface the soles are attached with a soft rubber or fine-pored polymer pad. The polymer is denser than rubber, so it "holds" the plane better.

Most models of grinders of this type has a motor with a power of 150-300 watts. They are lightweight, maneuverable, but at the same time do an excellent job of their grinding function. There are also more powerful machines, for example, the Makita 9046 (600W). They differ more large size and weight, so it is more difficult to handle them. However, such machines have a significant advantage: they are able to work without interruption (and overheating!) At low speeds and get a better processing result.

The amplitude of the sole stroke in vibration machines is always small, in the range of 1-6 mm. 5-6 mm is the largest amplitude for quick sanding of the surface. But the processing will be quite rough. The smaller the amplitude, the better the grinding will be.

Another important characteristic is travel speed. At high speed, the machine is able to quickly remove a thick layer of wood. This corresponds to coarse sanding. Finishing fine sanding is possible when using the machine at low travel speeds. Many famous manufacturers produce models with adjustable speed, which makes it possible to customize the tool for different processing purposes and for different materials.

A small overview to understand what to look for when choosing vibratory grinders:

Random Orbital Sanders

An eccentric machine (ECM) works on the principle of combining vibration and rotation. We can say that vibration and disc grinders are combined in one device. As a result of this combination, one obtains great quality surface treatment combined with high productivity. EShM working platform - round disk ("plate").

Orbital sanders are considered versatile. They are suitable for both coarse sanding (scraping) and finishing polishing for large volumes of work.

The thickness of the removed layer of wood can be adjusted by applying more or less pressure on the platform. The performance can also be adjusted by changing the diameter of the vibration circle (eccentric stroke). The lower this indicator, the lower the performance, but better quality processing. And vice versa. Therefore, for primary grinding, large vibration circles are installed on the machine, and for final (polishing) - small ones.

Modern ESM are characterized by an engine power of 200-900 W. More powerful models are also more productive. They are capable of handling larger soles up to 150 mm in diameter.

The rotary motion of the adjustable grinder can be performed at a speed of 4000-14000 rpm. If there is no adjustment, then this figure is reduced to 12,000 rpm. In this case, the speed of oscillatory movements is approximately two times less. The higher the speed of the machine, the rougher the sanding can be, but the higher the productivity.

The size of the sanding pad is also very important for work. The most common grinders have a diameter of 115 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm. Usually, the name of the tool already contains a number indicating the size of the sole. Large “trays” are designed to handle large flat areas and are therefore used on machines with high power and productivity. Sanding with a small “plate” machine will take longer, but it can accurately sand narrow and hard-to-reach areas.

Help in choosing can be provided by a video review, where several grinding machines from different manufacturers:

If you have decided on optimal type grinder, then it remains to choose a specific model. To do this, you will need the following tips:

1. For home use professional expensive model need not. If you plan to use the sander one-time or periodically (for surface repair, for example), then the best choice will become a "hobby" tool. High quality models are produced by Bosch, Skil, Sparky, Black & Decker, Interskol and Fiolent (Russian manufacturers).
2. The weight and dimensions of the tool are of great importance. Especially if this tool is manual and you have to work with it while holding it in your hands. For small volumes, it is better to prefer a less powerful, but more compact, lighter and faster model.
3. Pay attention to ergonomics. You need to be comfortable with the instrument. See where the switches are located, how easy (or difficult) it is to change abrasive materials, whether the power cord will not interfere with the work.
4. Test the machine right in the store. Turn it on, let it idle. This will give you an estimate of the noise and vibration levels coming out.
5. Visually inspect the machine. All body parts must fit exactly together. Eliminate the presence of backlash in the sliding elements.
6. Ask your dealer how easy it is to repair a particular machine.
7. Ask about the range and cost of consumables (abrasive).

Only after fully familiarizing yourself with these points can you make the final choice.

Many owners have parquet-style wooden floors. Such floors need to be cared for in a certain way and polishing the parquet is an integral part of this maintenance. Flooring, from whatever material it was mounted, it is subject to constant wear and tear. After some time, the parquet ceases to please the eye, which means that it should be polished.

A similar technological operation, along with everyday wet cleaning, will make the floor attractive and durable. How often this should be done depends on the degree of stress on the floor.

Under moderate mechanical loads, it is enough to carry out 1-2 polishing a year, and under conditions of increased loads, the frequency of parquet processing depends on the degree of surface wear and can be carried out at least once a month. These can be cafes, bars, canteens, etc. These are those establishments where parquet floors are subject to everyday wear and tear.

Why polish your parquet floor

The parquet board is factory-coated with oil or varnish, which has a certain effect on it. performance characteristics... The oil coating does not help to close the pores, which allows dust and dirt to accumulate in them. This negatively affects the appearance of the flooring.

Therefore, additional processing of the parquet is required. Although the lacquer finish is more durable, it also needs some work. In addition, the top layer of wood loses its characteristics due to aging.

Interseam joints are especially vulnerable to dust or dirt, so sanding the parquet is the only way out that allows the parquet floor to have an attractive appearance.

Parquet polishing methods

Modern construction market has a wide selection of polishes. It is so large that it is difficult to make a choice in favor of one or another polish.

Polishes are divided into the following types:

• glossy;
• semi-gloss;
• matte.

Noteworthy are the following brands of polishes:

• BRILL- a polish of neutral color, intended for polishing surfaces covered with ADESIV varnish. The cost of this product is within 18 USD. for 1 liter.
• HG polish- produced in the Netherlands and costs $ 14 for 1 liter.
• Dr. Schutz Polish(Dr. Schutz) is a universal polish from a German manufacturer. Glossy or matte polish is packaged in cans with a capacity of 0.75 liters and costs 23 cu. for 1 pc.

The type of polish depends on the initial treatment of the parquet boards, as well as its cost. Since everything must be economically feasible, you should choose funds that have an advantageous ratio of quality and price. These are the characteristics of water-based polishes. Such polishes have the technical characteristics of semi-gloss products.

Such materials have a number of advantages:

• ease of use;
• dries quickly;
• ecological cleanliness;
• polish components create an attractive glossy surface.
• low price.

To determine if this type of polish is suitable for the floor, you need to cover a small area. If the coating adheres well, it means it can be used.

What you need to know when polishing parquet

Polishing a parquet board requires strict performance of technological operations, depending on certain conditions:

• The area of ​​the room. Different equipment is used for different areas. The larger the polishing area, the more complex the equipment has to be used.
• The degree of surface contamination. This factor influences the use of detergents.
• Top covering of a parquet board. Depending on this indicator, wax is used or not. Read also: "".

Parquet polishing technology

How to sand parquet with your own hands so that it looks attractive and lasts a long time.

1. Pick up a vacuum cleaner and remove all dust, then remove the remaining dust with a damp cloth.
2. Wash the substrate with water and detergent.
3. Allow the floor to dry well.
4. Gently spread the polish over the entire surface of the parquet with a mop and a soft cloth. In this case, the polish must not be diluted. The consumption of funds is about 20-25 g per 1 m 2.
5. The applied layer should dry for 12 hours.
6. After that, you can start the polishing process. If polishing does not give the desired result, then the operation can be repeated, but it is advisable to apply the agent perpendicular to the first layer.

If, before applying a layer of polish, cover the base with wax, then the quality of the final result is higher and you will not have to polish the parquet again. This applies more to the parquet board, which was initially exposed with oil.

If you need to polish not large room, then this operation can be performed independently. The main thing is to follow the instructions on the package. Then the parquet floor will always have an attractive appearance and long term service.