Mounting angle (KU/KUU) is metal structure curved type, which serves as the basis for reliable fastening or connecting parts to each other. In construction, it is most often used for fixing wooden beams of different diameters between themselves or to other material that will become the support or frame of the future building. With the help of a corner, the necessary angle is created between the two supports, and the part itself is a connecting element.

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The mounting bracket is cast from a durable, galvanized steel material by hot stamping of metal (grade 08PS, GOST 14918-80). On the entire surface there are even, perforated holes for various fasteners, such as screws, self-tapping screws, bolts of various diameters, etc. Mounting brackets for construction differ in size, shape and scope. Regardless of type and form, this fastener has a number of advantages, namely:

• Versatility. There is no need to use special tools or complex binding materials for work. It is enough just to pick up reliable self-tapping screws or other screw-type fasteners with or without nuts and washers.
• Reliability. Due to the exact angle at the junction of two bars or other parts, the design has a high degree of reliability, while the reinforced metal corner is not subject to corrosion, as it is made of of stainless steel special stamping method.
• A wide choice of sizes and shapes, due to which you can choose reliable fixing angles for any type of timber or other building material.

Mounting brackets made of galvanized steel material

Reinforced or plain steel angle are used in various industries construction, as the main fastening element for beams, beams, supports or wooden columns in the construction of residential buildings, boiler houses, commercial and industrial premises. In addition to corners, for attaching timber and wooden structures in construction, special metal supports, holders, connecting plates, backlashes, etc. are also used.

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All steel fasteners that are used to connect two or more structural parts together are of two types:

• All-metal. The most common types of corners, holders and plates, which are used to fasten timber of standard sizes and sections.
• Separate type. Prefabricated structures, which are usually used for support, fastening or connection non-standard types beams or beams. In terms of reliability and rigidity, such parts are inferior to solid structures, therefore, before using them, various parameters of structural rigidity are additionally calculated.

All-metal fastener

In addition to differences in the type of production and assembly, the corners differ in size and shape, as well as in thickness, which, depending on the type and manufacturer, varies from 2 to 3.5 millimeters. The most common types in construction are:

• Reinforced fixing bracket (KUU). It has one or more special stiffeners, which allows it to be used when connecting beams and large-section beams with other materials (brick, aerated concrete, metal) to ensure high reliability and rigidity of the structure.
• Standard, equilateral, reinforced (KU-R). It is a flat metal plate bent at an angle of 90 degrees with uniform perforated holes on both sides. Mainly used for fastening wooden parts between themselves in places where there is no high load on the deflection. There are equilateral narrow and wide parts of this type.
• Anchor type (KUA). reinforced or regular in a special form, which is distinguished by a disproportionate length-width-height indicator, where the first two values ​​\u200b\u200bare equal, and the height can be of several types (usually 80, 120 or 200 millimeters).
• Asymmetrical (KUAS). Most often used to create right angle to the plane, according to the properties and diameter of the perforation of the holes, it is similar to the corner of the anchor type, however, they differ in width.
• 135 degree angle (KUS). Fastener for creating a reliable connection of the beam at a given angle. Typically used in the construction of roofs and canopies for fastening wooden rafters between themselves.
• Z-shaped. Reinforced, narrow-spec part designed for fastening building materials located in two different planes relative to each other, that is, parallel. In addition, it is used to connect load-bearing structures or for fixing timber of non-standard sizes.

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As a rule, corners should be purchased in bulk, several pieces of one or different kind, in this case, the retail price of the product will be significantly lower. A standard reinforced one costs between 15-25 rubles apiece in various hardware stores and online sites.

Standard mounting bracket 70x70x55

For reliable fastening of the corner with your own hands, you must also choose the right screws or self-tapping screws. We recommend using steel self-tapping screws for perforated holes of various thicknesses. Do not use nails, as over time their fastening properties weaken due to corrosion. If you are using a reinforced fixing angle for fastening a beam in places with a high further load, it is better to choose long self-tapping screws with several types of thread and secure fixation.

The optimal thickness of the corner is 2.5 mm for a reinforced part and 2 mm for a regular or steel plate. And be sure to pay attention to the manufacturer. Poor-quality parts can quickly rust and lose their properties, while weakening the main structural elements.

When the doors and windows are installed, you need to finish the slopes, as a rule, this is the final stage. To hide small roughness and give a complete aesthetic look, many use ready-made corners. How to cut and glue a corner of plastic, cork or MDF? Below are detailed recommendations for their installation.

Let's start with the most important - why is it necessary? What role do the corners play - only decorative or do they have more serious functions? We will not argue with the fact that if you frame the slopes of doors or windows with special decorative elements that fit perfectly into the design of the room, then the interior will immediately change for the better.

Corners protect slopes from damage

But besides this, they also perform a very important protective function. Sooner or later, you have to carry large items through the opening, which is fraught with damage to the corners, and you can simply accidentally touch the outer corner and damage it. There can be a lot of situations, most importantly, the result is the same - a damaged surface and, accordingly, a look. In addition, as practice shows, most often the wallpaper begins to peel off in these places. So it is best to protect the outer corner of the slope with decorative element which will also transform the interior.

Corners are not only protection, but also a neat aesthetic appearance

Plastic, wooden or MDF - which one to choose?

Convinced that the installation of corners is not just a whim, but a necessity, we will study construction market to make right choice. These products are divided into types depending on the material from which they are made. So, the corner can be plastic, wooden, bamboo, made of cork or MDF. Absolutely each type has its pros and cons, we will consider them in more detail.

To trim the corner, use a hacksaw with fine teeth.

How to glue

Finally, we got to the main question, how to stick the corners on the slopes. However, before proceeding directly to fixing, it is necessary to carry out, so to speak, a fitting. After making sure that everything is trimmed correctly, you can move on. Apply to inner part corner, at the junction of the sides, the adhesive solution in increments of approximately 10 cm. At this stage indispensable assistant will mounting gun. After that, quickly press the product to the surface and fix it in this position with masking tape. You should start with a horizontal slope, and then proceed to the side slopes. We remove excess sealant from the surface of the walls with a damp cloth and let it dry thoroughly. The tape can only be removed after 24 hours.

Video: we fix the corners on the window slopes

Thus, plastic corners can be placed on the slopes of a window or door. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this process.

Video: how to cut and glue corners on door slopes

Having dealt with what such products are made of, what are their features and having decided on the choice, you should learn how to install the corners on the slopes. detailed instructions below.

Corner for drywall 25x25 mm galvanized - one of the types of material that is used to level parts of the walls. As you know, drywall is popular in construction, it is easy to work with. However, prefabricated ones have problem areas - corners, which are most often subject to mechanical stress. This is where they come to the rescue different kinds existing corners.

Existing species drywall corners

They perform a protective function of parts of the walls and will help to build even corners. Knowing their classification, you can choose a suitable instance.

The most common product options are:

Metal perforated corner

This view is a thin sample from a profile with perforation and a rigid edge along the edge. Basically, there are 2 types of similar corners for drywall:

• straight;
• arched.

These representatives have many subspecies. The corners are not glued, they are practically “fitted” onto the structure and fixed with putty or.

The straight perforated corner is used for processing the inside and outside corners.

It is a V-shaped profile with many holes - perforations.

Variants of metal perforated corner for drywall

Actually, with their help, a high-quality connection with the processed corners occurs, and the top located at internal corners- inside, and for the outside - outside, is a guide for the spatula. Excess air also escapes through the holes. Straight punch angles are plastic, aluminum, galvanized. The latter is tougher than others, and the wide one can generally be used as a plaster beacon.

plastic corner

This sample is more resistant to moisture than from the profile, but the resistance to mechanical damage is lower. Of the advantages, one can note low price and no material corrosion. There is also a type of plastic corner, for example, AquaBead, which has a special paper with applied glue. Putty for fixing is not required here, it is enough to moisten the adhesive surface with water and simply glue the corner to the right place.

Arched

Apply various Decoration Materials, such as plaster, wallpaper, panels and others. But in order to preserve the transition points between the planes, an arched corner is used, which has great potential. Arched corners are divided into the following types:

• Installed under plaster, perforated. They have separate petals on one side of the corner, allowing you to place a sufficient strip on any arched bend. There are plastic and from the profile;
• Decorative, gluing of which occurs on the plaster.

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It looks like an arched corner for drywall

Before fixing the arched corner, you need to match it with the main finish or in contrast, so the design will look more original.

Mesh Products

Similar elements are used in places that require the strengthening of corners and protection from damage. Plaster mesh corners are designed for interior and outside corners. They can be either plastic or metal. The choice will be influenced by the shape and material of the plane for finishing.

Mounting corners on drywall using corners

When starting to install a corner on drywall, you need to have tools and material on hand.

Required material

• the selected type of corner will need to be bought with some margin;
• via ;
• it is best to buy Vetonit putty, which is of high quality.

Tools

• metal scissors will help to correctly and quickly cut the necessary parts;
• brush, which is required for applying the primer;
• wide and narrow spatulas will be needed for;
• the grinding block will remove all the irregularities on the plane, while the angle will be perfectly even.

This is how the mounted corners on drywall look like

When starting installation, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the sequence of aligning the corners with putty so as not to damage this fragile material.

Stages of work

1. First, the plane must be thoroughly cleaned and treated with a primer. You need to proceed to the next stage only after it has completely dried.
2. Measurements are taken, and the desired length of the corners is cut off. They are applied to drywall as a fitting.
3. For further work you will need a non-woven tape, a serpentine mesh - for internal corners, one of the types perforated corners: plastic, adhesive, rounded or metal profile or on paper.
4. Before you make a choice. For the formation of internal and external corners, it is better to buy dry gypsum mixture. It has a reasonable price good quality and will be able to securely fasten the elements to the structure.
   
5. Putty is prepared in compliance with all stages: poured, poured, stirred, allowed to settle, kneaded again.
6. When working with external corners, you need to remember that they are most often subjected to mechanical stress, it is better to fix metal samples, in some cases having a rounded shape.
7. Check the evenness of the end.
8. Putty is applied to the treated area with smooth movements. Not allowing the composition to dry out, you need to fix the corner with pressure, check the accuracy with a level, if necessary, you can knock with a rubber mallet.
9. Sometimes the corner is attached to the drywall with a stapler or glued with glue, and then covered with putty.
10. Another layer of the mixture is applied to the installed element and now it is aligned with the general plane of the wall.

    Applying the second coat of putty

11. After thorough drying, the sloping corner is polished.
12. Installing the corners inside the structure looks similar, even a little easier. The adjacent sides, the gap between the corners are carefully smeared with a spatula, and the excess mixture is removed. On a dried polished surface having desired shape. You can buy and, only put it on raw putty.
13. check the fastening on the drywall of the corner, then with the help of the next layer hide the irregularities.
14. After thorough drying, the surface is finished sandpaper or a polished bar, thus forming a perfect angle.
    
15. To facilitate the leveling process, so-called beacons are used, attached to the surface with a plaster solution, here you can do without fasteners.
16. Separately, I would like to mention a semicircular plastic corner used in rooms with the maximum possible impact on the corners. It is made of flexible plastic and has no sharp corner, but semicircular. Its price is quite acceptable, and its durability is beyond doubt. It differs in some features at the installation stage, namely, cutting the end by 1.5-2 cm with an angle of 45 ͦ. A corner is pressed into the applied initial putty, fixed with a stapler, the edges are processed with a mixture.

The video of arranging the corners will help you see how the drywall parts are reinforced, and will also allow you to select and buy the necessary elements.

Finishing the inner and outer corners will not seem difficult with right approach and necessary training. The main thing is that during installation they should be requiring minimal finishing.

To properly take care of interior design, it is important to pay attention to every detail. Finishing windows and doorways is no exception in this regard. Decorate openings and give them an aesthetic appearance decorative plastic corner.

It will not only emphasize the clarity of the lines of the corners, but also will hide plaster imperfections, if one was used as a finishing material.

What are these products?

This is a piece of furniture intended for decorative finishes window and other slopes, as well as to hide corner joints when using different materials.

corners made from rigid PVC by the method of "hot" inflection of the sheet using a special technology.

Scope of application

To make the idea of ​​the purpose of the products more complete, it is worth considering this issue in a little more detail.

PVC corners can be used in the following cases:

Pros and cons

Plastic sloping corner, like any material, has its pros and cons, let's talk about them in more detail.

First, about the pros of products:

• allow you to close the corner abutments of various materials;
• smooth out irregularities and form an angle of 90 ° in the places of finishing;
• service life is 20-25 years;
• easy to process during installation;
• you can choose the desired color (the corners are produced not only white, but also colored)
• reasonable price, favorably highlighting PVC corners against the background of wooden and metal products.

Minuses:

• weak mechanical strength– when cutting, the material may crack in the cut area, the products are easily scratched;
• combustibility, heated and burning plastic emits acrid smoke and gas.

Types and sizes

PVC corners can be split, based on two criteria: area of ​​application and type of finish. The main types will be discussed below.

According to the nature of the purpose, the products are divided into the following types:

1. Equilateral. This type is used mainly to give strength to slopes. Available in sizes from 20x20 to 50x50 mm.
2. Not equilateral. Use them to finish arched openings. Dimensions - 5x17 and 20x25 mm.
3. T-shaped products. Most often used to hide the joints between wall cladding and slope.
4. Removable (with latch). Allow to carry out repair work without resorting to dismantling the profile. If necessary, it is enough to simply bend it, and at the end of the repair, return the shelves to their place.

By type of finish, the corners are:

• outdoor;
• internal;

What glue to use?

One of the most effective options - polyurethane adhesive. It is possible to use both a special adhesive for plastic corners, and any other composition suitable for PVC mounting products.

When finishing areas with low traffic, you can use a silicone-based sealant.

This glue is also used to fix corners ceramic tiles in the kitchen or in the bathroom.

Another option is liquid nails. When installing light products it is better to use a colorless composition, and for dark products, any option is suitable.

How to glue plastic corners on slopes?

Installation of corners should be carried out only after finishing works(wallpapering, painting, etc.). Myself the installation process is carried out in several stages.

First of all, you need remove all protrusions from the surface, if any, be it plaster, putty, etc. If wallpaper is pasted on the wall, you need to remove it in the places where the corner fits.

V otherwise it will be glued to the wallpaper, not to the wall. The wallpaper should be cut in such a way that after installing the corner, there is no gap between it and the cladding. Next, you need a place to mount the corner degrease with a mild solvent or white spirit.

The corner must be attached to the wall and mark it with a pencil- at the top and bottom on the vertical parts and along the edges on the horizontal corners, which will be located between the slopes.

It is advisable to measure the vertical elements after gluing the upper horizontal one, and the lower one after mounting the vertical ones. In this case reduces the risk of gap formation between their ends.

According to the labels cuts are made with metal scissors. The inner part of the corners is cut at an angle of 90 °, and the outer part is cut at an angle of 45 °.

The glue is applied in a narrow dotted strip on the inside of the product, closer to the middle, at intervals of 1–1.5 cm.

Next you need attach the corner to the surface and press well, then fix it for a day with masking tape or tape in several places. After the glue dries, the tape should be carefully removed. This completes the installation.