Do-it-yourself is not such a time-consuming process as it might seem at the very beginning of work. The most important thing here is to have the necessary materials and tools available. During their manufacture and installation, it is imperative to observe safety precautions and be especially careful when cutting metal. This type of gate is ideal for a private house and summer cottage.

Advantages of swing gates:

• simplicity of design;
• installation that does not require special skills;
• low cost;
• versatility of application;
• long service life.

Disadvantages of swing gates:

• Availability free space for opening the doors;
• v winter time year clearing of the territory.

In fact, these shortcomings are considered so insignificant that they do not at all affect the popularity of this type of gate among the owners of a private courtyard.

And despite the new offer, modern designs and technical innovations, swing gates in comparison with others, they have remained the leader in use for many years.

Basically, for the production of gates, a profiled sheet is used, less often a tree.

Required materials for making a gate:

• profiled sheet;
• sheet steel thick;
• profile for the frame;
• foundation racks;
• loops for fastening the canvas;
• padlock hinges;
• latches;
• concrete solution;
• bricks or stones;
• roofing material.

Gate mounting tools:

• tape measure, pencil, building level;
• welding machine;
• a set of keys;
• drill and grinder;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver.

How to install swing gates correctly

1. Do-it-yourself installation of the doors is carried out on pre-prepared and already installed supporting pillars. Bearing pillars can be made with your own hands from hardwood, concrete, metal pipes with a cross section of no more than 10 cm. They can also be made from stone or brick pillars.
2. Before this, the pillars need to be concreted in special pits. We do this for good fixation of the pillars, which should not be adversely affected by the condition of the soil and other possible mechanical influences in the future.
3. If a profile or metal pipes are used as pillars, then they are welded to one end a metal sheet size 250 by 250 mm. This is to ensure that the pillars are firmly in the ground. For better balance, you can additionally weld 2 pieces of reinforcement to this structure, interconnected crosswise. And while the racks are in a free position, weld canopies to them.
4. Now you need to correctly install and concrete the pillars. In this regard, it is necessary to dig 2 holes, with a depth of at least 60 cm and a diameter of 30 cm.
5. In order for the foundation to be strong enough, the bottom of the pit is filled with concrete, and the walls are lined with roofing material.
6. A support is placed on the concrete, which is aligned vertically and fixed with bricks or stones.
7. A little rubble is poured and concrete pouring begins. The liquid mixture must reach the level of the horizontal surface where the pillar rests.
8. Thus, alternating concrete, stones and crushed stone, you should ensure that the installation of the post is correct and clear.
9. Pouring the pillar with your own hands stops when the level of the mixture reaches the ground level or slightly above.
10. The second support is installed in the same way.
11. In the process of work, it is necessary to constantly monitor the exact verticality of the racks and their height. Before cutting off the pipes, they must first be tried on to the pits. After all, each support can have its own depth and length, and it also depends on the soil of the earth.
12. If a stone or brick is used as supports, then a hole is dug and the laying of a brick or stone on a concrete solution begins. But here you need to do it yourself with reinforcement. And for the possibility of holding installation works metal plates and corners should be fixed and removed from the racks.
13. Regardless of the material used, the assembled posts will be finally ready for fastening the sash in about 20 days. It is after this period that they will acquire final strength and it will be possible to install the gate. But in practice, the sash is fixed in a week.

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How to make a gate frame

You will need to take a pipe for the frame, for example, rectangular profile size 30 by 50 mm. The pipe is marked according to the dimensions made in the door opening and cut into the required lengths. The segments are welded together with a simple horizontal seam, using electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm.

Welding is best done in the following way:

• lay out all the details of the frame on the ground;
• connect them together with light welding;
• fit all the details to one another to get an even quadrangle;
• boil the joints well;
• Reinforce the joints with sheet steel plates.
• Do the same with the second part of the hangers; weld it so that a gap of about 8 cm remains between the ground and the canvas.

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Hinges for swing gates

Since the whole structure will be held on the hinges, their quality should be paid Special attention... Hinges for gates and wickets must be massive, that is, garage. Two hinges for each leaf and separately for the wicket will be enough.

Since hinges for this purpose are held on metal, they must be adapted for such fasteners. This will require 6 plates measuring 3 by 4 cm with a metal thickness of more than 3 mm. From pipe scraps, you can cut out the necessary rectangles with your own hands and straighten them with a hammer. Finished plates must be cleaned of rust.

The hinges consist of 2 parts, the part with the pin is welded to the post, and the other part is welded to the shutters. The place of welding should be cleaned and holes drilled in the “ears” with a diameter of up to 3 mm. On each plate, the number of holes will be different: 4 pieces for the shutters and 1 piece for the post.

The gate is constantly exposed to heavy loads. Skewed entrance structures is a fairly common occurrence. Many gates that can be found on the streets of any city have sloping posts. You don't need to have a lot of experience to figure out what is the reason for the failure support pillars is an incorrect installation. There is no rigid connection between such elements. The foundation for them was poured incorrectly. Before building a gate, you need to understand the intricacies of installing supports, for example, how to mount mortgages for gates in brick pillars.

Necessary materials

To make reliable gate posts on suburban area, you will need to prepare a number of materials. The parameters of various structural parts are calculated, taking into account the expected load. To create a gate you will need:

• a pipe having a diameter of 100 mm;
• corner 100x100 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• cement powder;
• carpentry tools;
• welding machine;
• sand;
• timber and edged board - formwork will be erected from them.

Having prepared such tools, you can begin work on the creation and installation of pillars for the gate.

Manufacturing of foundations and metal racks

First, the blanks are cut from which the gate will be made. For racks, pipes of 100 mm in diameter are prepared in advance. The length of the elements depends on the sum of the height of the sash and the depth to which each support will be buried. The last indicator is 0.8-1 m.If the gate height is 2 m, the blanks for the pillars are 3 m long.

The jumper used to connect the racks is made from a corner of 100x100 mm. The length of this element must be equal to the width of the gate. For standard structures, it is carried out with a length of 3 m.When choosing for supports metal pipe one shelf of the corner will have to be cut off, and then bend it slightly so that the edges of the corner better adhere to the posts during welding.

Then the following actions are performed:

When performing work, the racks should be strengthened. For this, stone supports are placed under them. Then the pillars must be strengthened with stops. In order for the foundation to be strong, it should be reinforced with profile scraps. They are fastened with knitting wire.

Then prepare concrete mix... It should contain four parts of sand and one part of cement powder. Then the formwork is filled with mortar. Broken bricks and stones are used to conserve mix. The mortar must harden before the gates are hung on the posts. You need to wait about a week.

Installation of metal gates

When the site is fenced off, you need to think about installing a gate. They can be of several types - sliding or swinging, lifting or opening in one direction. With your own hands, you can only install a swing gate or a structure that opens in one direction.

Before work, you should prepare:

• welding machine and bolts;
• hinges;
• even bar;
• supports.

V country houses and in summer cottages, swing gates are most often installed. Such designs have two sashes. They are welded from iron. If desired, you can build Forged gates... To install the gate, you need to dig in the pillars, determining the size of the leaves. Both wooden and iron supports can be installed.

The hinges are bolted to the posts. Store-bought items are not suitable for this purpose. This is due to their low reliability. You should purchase powerful hinges made yourself by a master of a turning organization. Such designs must have a ball mechanism. This will allow the gate to open quite easily.

The work of assembling and securing the gate is difficult. One person is unlikely to be able to carry out this procedure, since the flaps are quite heavy. They are hung at a certain height above the ground.

To create an opening under the gate, a block should be laid between the supports, and then a sash should be installed on it. Now you can weld on the hinges - first the upper, then the lower. The second sash is installed flush with the first.

Installation of wooden gates

Suburban land owners want to install gates in such a way that they are conveniently used and have an aesthetic appearance. Wooden structures are the most affordable and easiest to manufacture.

For those who want to start making wooden gate do it yourself, first you need to make a drawing of the future product. This will help you calculate the amount necessary materials and also find out the scope of work. When executing a drawing, it is necessary to compare the dimensions of each element.

Installation of supports

From wooden beams vertical pillars are created. Their dimensions are calculated quite simply - a meter is added to the height of the structure for immersion in the ground. The greater the depth, the more stable the gate will be. This will eliminate the likelihood of skewing the structure.

Debris should be removed from the installation site of the support pillars. It is necessary to dig holes with a diameter exceeding the diameter of the pillars by 20 cm.The part of the pillar that is filled with cement mortar must be pre-treated bituminous mastic... This will protect the wood from rotting. The plumb line checks the vertical arrangement of the pillars. Pits with installed supports should be poured with concrete, and then wait until it hardens.

Manufacturing of wooden gates

To create one of the posts for wooden gates, you will need to prepare bars for the bottom and top, 2 bars for the side supports and two for creating the middle lintel. Dimensions are calculated based on the dimensions of the land owner's car. Each wooden element must be impregnated with an antiseptic.

The elements of the gate frame must be laid out on a flat area, and then using a drill to make holes for the dowels. Such details will give the structure reliability - they hold the nodal connections together. In the center of the frame, it is necessary to install jumpers from the bars. In the corners, jibs are attached, which are located at an angle of 45 degrees.

When calculating the height of the frame, it should be borne in mind that the boards for sheathing should protrude 20 cm from above and below it. Before starting sheathing, the boards should be prepared. They are processed with a plane.

There are several ways to cover the frame with boards. After installing all the elements in their places, the top is trimmed and processed with sandpaper. The hinges can now be installed on the sashes. For this purpose, self-tapping screws should be prepared. They are also used when fixing mounts on racks.

There must be a distance of at least 5 cm from the ground to the bottom of the doors. When closed, the gate is fixed with latches, locks or latches. It is more reasonable to paint it after installing the wooden gate.

Fence poles concreting

Thanks to the concreting of the pillars, the fence becomes much stronger. At the same time, the service life of the structure also increases. The metal supports provide excellent rust protection. There are several types of concreting. They have certain differences that should be taken into account.

Complete concreting

The first thing to do is to prepare the site for the installation of the fence. In places where the supports will be concreted, all plant roots should be removed and the fertile layer should be cut off. Using a garden drill, you need to make a hole below the freezing level of the soil. If the drill is equipped with a special expander, you need to make a slight widening in the lower part of the pit. This will exclude the pushing out of the foundation by the soil during frost heaving.

The plot is marked along the perimeter. In the plan, it is necessary to indicate the places of installation of the pillars. If the soil is strongly susceptible to frost heaving, the soil should be removed within a radius of half a meter around the installation of the supports and sand should be poured into the pits.

Prepared in advance metal poles... They must be thoroughly cleaned of rust stains... Then the metal elements are treated with an anti-corrosion compound. If possible, use a welding machine at the bottom, weld two transverse rods. This will make the pillars more stable.

Supports are installed in the hole and fixed with braces. It is necessary to check with a level how vertical the pillars are, and align if necessary. Fill cement mortar carried out using an old bucket without a bottom. It is better if a mixture of cement and crushed stone is poured. When choosing this option, you should first mix all the components, and then simply pour the mixture into the pit. When pouring the solution, the vertical position of the supports is simultaneously checked.

Partial concreting

If mounted light fence, it makes sense to carry out partial concreting. When choosing this option, the territory is first marked out, and then the supports are driven into the ground using a sledgehammer. In the case of heavy soil, it is drilled in advance with a drill. The diameter of the funnels should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the posts. Then the supports are plumb. The space around the pillars is poured with a cement mixture.

Partial concreting is suitable for areas with a low level groundwater... Otherwise, in the spring, the gate can go askew. When the soil absorbs water well and the fence is not too heavy, this is the best method.

Conclusion

As you can see, you can install the gate yourself if you correctly fulfill all the conditions of the technology. Metal supports are more reliable. Wooden crafts are also set in accordance with certain rules.

An indispensable element of any suburban building are gates and wickets. Because they are the ones who are responsible for protecting him from uninvited guests.

In addition to protective functions, modern fences must also be automatic and have beautiful view... Therefore, for the installation of gates and wickets, corrugated board and various automation are often used.

Swing gates are considered the most popular design for their simplicity and low cost.

Also this design easy to install with your own hands, you just need to use the right materials.

Now we will consider how to correctly install from corrugated board using a door closer.

Necessary materials

Before installing the gates and wickets, we need the following materials:

• sheets of corrugated board;
• profiled pipe 100/100 mm;
• steel corner 50/50 mm;
• profiled pipe 40/20 mm;
• closer;
• cement, coarse and fine crushed stone, sand.

Installation of pillars

Installation of gates and wickets, first of all, requires strong and reliable supports, which in to a greater extent are responsible for their performance.

1. First of all, you need to install one pillar with your own hands, since it will be easier from it to make subsequent more accurate measurements. To do this, a hole is dug under it about a meter deep, but not less than the freezing depth, in northern regions it can be up to 2 m.

1. Then crushed stone and sand are poured onto the bottom of the pit, that is, a kind of pillow of about 20 cm is made and compacted well.

1. Next, a post is taken from a profiled pipe and inserted into the pit, its length depends on the depth of the pit and the selected gate height. You can also put brick pillar, but this option is quite problematic and requires first equipping the foundation, then building the structure. By choosing a post from a profiled pipe, we get a faster installation.

1. Then it is necessary to prepare a solution of fine gravel, sand and cement and pour it into the post installed in the pit. So that air does not remain in the solution, it must be well tamped.

1. When the filling is completed, the verticality is checked using the level, this is quite important, because there should not be the slightest distortions, otherwise the gate leaves will not be able to close correctly and will jam.

1. Subsequent post installation can then be carried out immediately. It is done by hand, therefore the same principle. If the installation of the wicket is carried out separately from the main structure, then an additional post must be installed for it.

Installation of the gate structure

To make do-it-yourself constructions from corrugated board, first you need to weld the shutters for the gates and wickets.

1. To do this, on the prepared site, it is necessary to correctly lay out the already measured workpieces from the metal corner and grab them together by welding. Then, using a level, the horizontal and vertical flaps are checked, if everything is in order, then the seams are finally boiled.

1. To strengthen the flaps, you also need to weld a 40/20 mm profiled pipe in parallel. This will give the structure more rigidity and will not lead to further stress.

1. When the do-it-yourself doors are ready, the installation of hinges is necessary. To do this, they are first welded to the supports, and then, in turn, each sash is attached to them and also welded. Do not forget that there must be a gap of about 2 cm between the flaps, over time, the structure may tilt, and the gap will prevent it from jamming.

1. Next, we remove the sash from the welded hinges and sheathe them with sheets of corrugated board. To do this, you first need to make the correct measurements. Then, using a grinder, cut sheets of corrugated board of certain sizes. Then holes are drilled along the perimeter of the flaps, and the sheets are fastened with special self-tapping screws.

To make your suburban area look even more attractive and the gate with a wicket does not stand out too much, it is advisable to also make a fence from corrugated board.

Closer installation

In order to properly install the door closer with your own hands, first you need to choose the right model for your design. Thanks to the corrugated board, the gates and wickets are lightweight, so the door closer can be installed on all leaves.

In our case, the model with linkage... To install such a closer, you will need to fix one side to the post, and the other is attached directly to the canvas.

You will need

• - pipe Ø100 mm;
• - corner 100x100 mm;
• - angle grinder ("grinder");
• - welding machine;
• - cement;
• - sand;
• - edged board and timber for formwork;
• - carpentry tool;
• - shovel and bayonet shovels.

Instructions

Cut the blanks for the gate. For racks, use a Ø100 mm pipe or a 100x100 mm angle. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned door height of 2 m, the length of the workpieces should be 2.8-3 m.
Make the jumper connecting the posts from a corner 100x100 mm. Its length must be equal to the width of the gate. For standard gates, it is taken equal to 3 m. If a pipe is used as a rack, cut off one corner shelf on both sides at an angle of 30 ° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well to the posts when they are welded.

Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more even place for this. It should look like the letter "H" - two posts and a jumper laid between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: the parallelism of the racks to each other and the perpendicularity of the lintel in relation to the racks.

Weld the jumper to the uprights. Both corner shelves must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will play the role of reinforcement, firmly connecting the lintel to the foundation.

Dig a trench to fill the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for 3-meter gates). The required depth of the trench is determined taking into account the depth of freezing of the soil, its type, and the level of groundwater. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of freezing of the soil in your area, which can be found on construction sites.

Craft wooden boards from edged boards and assemble the formwork from them. Its dimensions in the plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the walls of the formwork slightly expanding to the bottom - in order to avoid the pushing effect of the soil on the foundation.

Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the posts or the lintel and fix the posts on both sides with stops. Place reinforcement of any kind of metal in the formwork - wire, scraps metal profile etc.

Prepare sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1: 4 (cement: sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. While pouring, tamp the mortar with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation must be level with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, allow the solution to harden - at least a week.

The gates installed at the entrance to a suburban area are distinguished by a variety of designs of materials used and have different functionality. The main types of gates for summer cottages and suburban areas include lifting, sliding and swing gates. The most common are swing gates. Compared to other types, they are quite simple to install and their installation is less expensive. Swing gates can be made from various materials, arrange various decorative elements... Assembly and installation of this type of gate can be done independently.

On a suburban area, it becomes necessary to install a gate. They enhance your safety and are certainly a beautiful addition to your home.

In order to correctly manufacture and fix reliable and well-performing gates on the supports, it is first necessary to make an assembly drawing (sketch) of the structure.

It can be done on paper or on a computer screen. At this stage, the dimensions of the structure are calculated, corresponding to the operating conditions. Determined design features devices, list and quantity of required materials. The sketch should show the gate leaves in the closed and open positions for accurate display of the dimensions. The main tools that you will need for work: a welding machine, a grinder, a square, a tape measure, a building level.

Installation of support pillars

Poles installation methods: 1 - driving in; 2 - combined; 3 - concreting; 4 - rubble rubbing.

The most important operations during gate installation are the mounting of the supports and the hanging of the leaves on them. As support pillars for the gate, you can install steel tubes(from ø100 mm), I-beams or channels with a flange width of at least 100 mm.

The depth of the foundation for the support pillars depends on the nature of the soil of the site, the weight of the canvases and should be at least 1.5 m. The foundation of the supports will experience constant dynamic loads when the shutters move and gusts of wind. It must also withstand the impact of the soil during abrupt transitions from a thawed state to a frozen state. When pouring the foundation, one should take into account the geological features of the soil, which were taken into account when erecting buildings on the site. In any case, the base of the foundation must be installed below the depth of soil freezing.

Before installing the supports, you should consult with specialists to select their design and dimensions. The installation process itself is carried out in the following sequence.

1. Pits of a certain depth are dug for laying supports. Their diameter should be larger diameter pipes or cross-sections of pillars by at least 10 cm.
2. A layer of gravel, broken brick or small stone is poured into the bottom of the pits. The pillars are installed in the pits and are set strictly vertically in level with the installation of supports or welding of the retaining bars perpendicular to the supports.
3. Concreting of the base is carried out with control of the verticality and alignment of the pillars. Under heavy load, the foundation must be reinforced.
4. After installing the pillars, before hanging the shutters, you need to hold the foundation until it hardens for 28 days.

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Manufacturing of gate leaves

For the manufacture of the sash frame, a square (rectangular) profile with a section corresponding to the weight of the structure or corners is used. The corners should have shelves from 40 mm wide. The door leaves can be made of sheet metal or mesh. At preliminary calculations it is necessary to determine what will be required additional elements(gate, hinges, lock, bolt, lugs for the lock, etc.). It is desirable that the sashes swing 180 ° when opening. If possible, it is better to open the doors to the outside to save money. useful area plot.

Sheets of corrugated board are most often used as a door leaf.

The door leaves are welded on a flat horizontal surface, observing the diagonals and right angles of the structure. The sash frames are made according to the dimensions in the sketch, taking into account the width of the opening between them, the gaps between the canvases and the indents from the support pillars. On average, the total width of the flaps is not 30-35 mm less than the width of the opening. If mesh gates are provided, gussets are welded to the corners of the frame. Welding overlapped corners will make the structure stronger, but spoil its appearance.

For the manufacture of gate leaves, a steel sheet with a thickness of 2 mm or more is used. The canvases welded to the frame should protrude beyond the edge of it from above and below by 1-2 cm. In the middle of the gate, the edge of the leaf of one leaf overlaps the frame of the other. To sheet material did not lead, it is first grabbed at the corners of the frame at the midpoints of the canvases. Then, with point tacks every 10-15 cm, the sheets are completely welded. After completion, welds in the corners are sheared off to avoid further thermal distortion.

For canvases from steel sheet if necessary, you can make reinforcement with stiffeners. During assembly, there should be no holes through which moisture can enter the structure. After assembling the structure, a preliminary fitting of the sashes to the opening is done. Bars are placed under the sash, the correctness of the calculation of the gaps is checked. The intended location of the loops is marked with chalk.

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Welding hinges to gate leaves

The process of welding the hinges to the sashes and support posts requires particular precision. The size and number of loops is selected depending on the weight of the canvases. It is better to hang massive collars on 6 loops. The smooth movement of the flaps will ensure the use of bearing hinges. For the chosen one, the so-called garage hinges are suitable, the rod of which has a diameter of at least 12 mm. The rod should enter the cavity of the mating part of the hinge with a minimum clearance. The presence of backlash can be determined by moving the hinge assembly to a break.

Straight hinges are welded to the door frame prior to installation in the following order:

• the sash is laid on the boards or assembly table strictly horizontally;
• the upper part of the hinge with a cavity is applied to the chalk marks, a flat planed board should be placed under it in order to correctly position the hinges;
• a gap is maintained between it and the frame by inserting a plate of a certain thickness under half the length of the loop;
• hinges are tacked in compliance with the alignment between them;
• in the same way, the upper parts of the hinges are gripped to the second sash.