After the device of the fence is completed, it remains only to fasten the gate to the brick pillars. And here many are asking the question: how to do it correctly. However, before that you need to decide on how the pillars are arranged. If we are talking about ordinary brick supports, then it is impossible to attach a gate to them. If you did not know about this before, then all that remains is to sympathize. Columns for the entry group must have a specific design. Only in this case can its installation be carried out.

An example of a gate attached to brick pillars

The correct pillars for the gate must necessarily include a thick metal pipe or channel, which is sized and concreted into the ground so that it can be used as a support even without brickwork. Brickwork is essentially just decoration, which practically does not give strength to the column.

Ideally, it looks like this:

• 1. A pipe with a diameter of more than 108 mm and a wall thickness of at least 3 mm is concreted to a depth of about 2 meters. It fits into its base a metal sheet or a flat stone that will protect the pipe from sinking into the ground.
• 2. Embeds are displayed on the pillars, on which the hinges will be located.

Important! In this case, the embedded parts should protrude so that they cannot be closed with a brick.

• 3. The pipe is faced with bricks.

Execution order installation works

If the post was made correctly, then a channel should protrude from one of its walls so that the entry group can be fixed on it. Covering it from all sides is not entirely correct.

If such a decision has already been made, you should not try to bring the mortgages that are welded to the channel outside.

In reality, the embedded parts will not be used and will be cut off so as not to interfere with further installation. Clipped mortgages will ruin over time appearance pillars, as they will rust and leave smudges.

Lack of channel

It often happens that the channel is missing or hidden under a layer of brick. We'll have to install it. If the brick support has a thick metal reinforcement inside, it will be enough to simply fix a short piece of the channel on it, approximately equal in height to the length of the flaps. This fastening is carried out using mortgages, which are used as metal rods or fittings, hammered into the masonry along the edges of the channel and welded to it.

In order to perform this operation more accurately, it is recommended to make holes in the rolled metal. This will allow you to hide the mortgages driven into the post from prying eyes. It goes without saying that the holes will need to be welded and cleaned out with a grinder. If necessary, they can be putty.

Lack of internal reinforcement

Installation example of a channel

More problems will arise if there is no internal reinforcement in the post. But you can find a way out of this situation. In this case, you will also need to install the channel. This will require a piece of greater length, which is deeply buried and concreted. In order to get a guaranteed result and securely fix the gate, you need an underground lintel. What does it mean? In fact, everything is very simple. It is necessary to dig a ditch across the opening of the entrance group, into which one more U-shaped metal rolling should be laid horizontally in addition to two vertical ones.

Important! The third channel is laid so that the lower edges of the vertical ones are connected to it.

Further, all this structure must be poured with concrete at the same time. Then the horizontal channel should be covered with soil and a normal passage should be arranged. If these measures are not enough, you need to install another one on top, but in this case the height of the fence is very important, because if it is insufficient, the truck is unlikely to be able to enter the courtyard. True, fences with a height of a wagon are not made, so the upper channel can be turned into an arch, thereby hiding the flaws and giving individuality to the site.

Fastening the gate to brick pillars

After all the preparations are completed, you can start hanging the gate. For this, the frames of the sash are hung on the posts with the help of hinges. In this case, it is very important to correctly take into account the necessary clearances, which will allow the gate to work without hindrance in the event that the pillars are displaced.

Attaching swing gates to posts

Skewed pillars are quite common in most villages and provincial towns. It is not difficult to understand why the supports have deviated from the vertical position. The reason lies in the wrong concreting or its complete absence. Also, the problem may lie in the wrong approach to strengthening the supports. Brick gate posts are particularly difficult to install. They should be installed according to certain rules.

Pillar selection

During the operation of the gate, the pillars are constantly exposed to intense loads. They hold the sashes during opening and closing, as well as in strong gusts of wind. Also, the supports must constantly keep the gate in the position in which it was installed. The weight of each sash exerts constant static pressure on the posts. For these reasons, only high quality materials are required for any type of gate and wicket support.

Most often, when installing a gate, metal, brick, asbestos cement or concrete are used. Such supports are strong and reliable enough, they serve for a long time and are able to withstand the impact environment... When using metal racks, you should pay attention to the posts with a section of 80x60 mm. You also need to consider the thickness of the metal. It must be at least 3 mm.

Asbestos cement pipes can be the same along the entire perimeter of the fence. However, the pillars used to support the gate should be reinforced with reinforcement and placed in the ground much lower than the rest. Brick supports are reinforced with a reinforcing cage. You can quickly install fence posts and gates. The main thing is to prepare all the tools and materials in advance.

Layout for supports and required dimensions

To carry out the installation of the pillars, it is worth taking precise measurements. The main indicators that will have to be determined are the width of the gate, as well as the height of the pillars and the depth to which they are immersed in the soil. The average width of the opening for swing structures is 3-4 m. Also, the gate should be located along the fence line.

The marking of the place for the gate is quite simple:

• first mark the position of one support;
• then the distance to the second pillar is measured from it, taking into account the required width of the opening;
• thereafter, the installation of the second support is carried out.

Regardless of the weight of the gate, the supports for them cannot simply be driven into the ground. To mount the pillars, you will need to dig them in or concrete them. The depth to which the lower part of the pillars is placed should be at least 1.5 m. This is necessary so that the supports do not move during the heaving of the soil.

If you place the pillars at a shallow depth, the soil will simply push them up. As a result, the gate may stop functioning. To install support structures, it is necessary to drill holes or dig holes in the marked places. Then it is worth placing pillars in them and concreting. The diameter of the holes should not be much larger than the diameter of the items to be dug in. This will reduce the consumption of concrete mix and not loosen the soil around the posts. To figure out how to correctly install the pillars, you will need to perform a number of preparatory steps.

Preparing for installation

Supports made of asbestos-cement pipes and concrete do not need special preparation before burying or concreting. They are mounted immediately. WITH metal products before installation, clean off traces of corrosion, small irregularities, scale. After that, the pillars are degreased and primed. When installing brick supports, it is worth taking care of several nuances at once - laying the foundation, the composition of the mortar for masonry and installing the reinforcement.

The main task is to prepare the right tools... It is necessary that everything is at hand in advance:

• spacers;
• trowel and tape measure;
• hammer;
• level;
• reinforcement rods.

Also, in the process of installing products of any type, you will need sand, crushed stone, brick and waterproofing.

Installation of racks

The process of installing the pillars for the gate differs little from the method of installing the remaining supports, however, it is worth considering certain nuances of the procedure. Before installation, a hole is dug, then sand is poured into it (to create a pillow) with a thickness of 15 cm, and then a post is placed and it is leveled using a level. As soon as the support takes a strictly vertical position, it is fixed with spacers.

The next stage of installation is concreting. It is necessary to fill in the solution in stages, regularly tamping with a rod of reinforcement. This allows excess air to be driven out of the solution. Hollow products must also be filled concrete mix... Such a measure will increase the bearing capacity of the gate support. To strengthen the asbestos-cement pipes, reinforcement is placed inside the supports. It is pushed into the ground and then concreted.

Brick supports are erected using a special technology:

• first, rubble should be poured into the pit;
• then concrete is poured into it (before reaching the soil surface level of 20 cm);
• the completed base is covered with waterproofing, and then again poured with mortar and the first layer of bricks is laid;
• bricks must be tapped with a hammer to align.

It is necessary to place a steel pipe inside the masonry, and then continue the construction of the masonry. Do not forget about the mortgages for the gates in the brick pillars - the gate posts will be connected to them.

After the pillars are poured with concrete, it is necessary to wait until the mortar has completely hardened. At the next stage, hinges are welded to them, and then the gate is mounted. This technology is sufficient if the gate is not used too often.

However, in the case of everyday passage of heavy vehicles, it is worth doing the job a little differently.

Supports with foundation

Not always the usual installation of supports provides high reliability and stability of the structure. It is especially important to take care of their reinforcement during heavy traffic on the site. Regular vibration causes loosening of the supports, which can lead to deformation of the door.

To prevent this situation, the pillars are installed on a foundation that connects them to the fence. For such purposes, according to pre-made markings, it is necessary to dig a trench up to 50 cm deep and 30 cm wide.

The supports are placed in pits 1.5 m deep. After installing and fixing the pillars, they must be tied together with a steel corner. Then the trench is poured with concrete. At the level of the road, it is worth making a bunch again and pouring the remaining centimeters with concrete.

Features of brick laying

In order for the masonry to be as strong as possible, a number of conditions must be met:

• along the perimeter of the future masonry, it is necessary to lay out square rods;
• after that, concrete is applied inside the surface of the bars so as not to exceed their level;
• building level the horizontal position of the solution is checked;
• any irregularities are eliminated;
• 4 bricks are placed on top along the perimeter, also taking into account the dressing of the seams;
• the rods are removed and cleaned of concrete;
• each seam between the bricks is filled with mortar;
• the inner part of the pillar is covered with pebbles, and the solution is poured over the top.

Care must be taken that the concrete is not too runny. With the help of a rod, it is necessary to pierce the pebbles so that the solution penetrates into it. When performing each next row, a series of these processes is repeated.

Important nuances

The most effective is the masonry, which is carried out around a metal pipe, concreted into the foundation. Gate posts are equipped with pipes to the full height of the support. For the rest of the pillars, it will be enough to set metal pipes, which will rise above the ground by only 50 cm. The supports for the gate must have larger diameter than the rest.

After that, the following work is performed:

• Along the perimeter of the pillar on concrete mortar lay bricks, periodically bandaging the seams.
• Pebbles are poured inside, and then they are poured with concrete. In this case, the bricks will serve as formwork.
• For the bottom 3 rows, choose solid brick... The rest can be made from hollow.

Work will go faster if you put the solution under the entire row at once.

Fastening the gate to the posts

To attach the gate to brick pillars, you will need to hang hinges on them. For round pillars, it is better to use through-type products. Also, channels can be cut into the supports from 2 sides, and the gates can already be hung on them. The hinges are simply welded to the metal posts.

The gate is attached to the brick pillars with a channel. It can be selected according to the length of the flaps. There is no need to mount the channel along the entire post height.

• Wickets and gates from a metal profile
• Automation for swing gates with outward opening
• Do-it-yourself gate + drawings, diagrams, sketches
• How to choose hinges for swing gates

What material is chosen for the fence posts - this is how they are obtained. Some are better not to "protrude", but to hide on the outskirts of the site. There are those that I would like to highlight, but it does not work - no originality!

And brick pillars are good for everyone: they fit any material - a fence even with your own hands turns out to be solid and beautiful. Due to the variety of types of bricks and masonry methods, they are not similar to each other. One inconvenience they have: the fastening of veins, wickets and especially the gate raises questions. Is there a simple and reliable way to install and fix the gate to the brickwork? How to do it yourself?

Dark colored metal fence on light brick pillars

Let's try to figure it out.

"Anatomy" of a brick pillar: execution options

Anatomy of a brick pillar

Brick pillars are a design element of your fence and brick (stone, plastic) serves only as a decorative role. The power load is carried by the core, the base of the column. It may be a profile square tube, Tubing (drilling), water supply round or just reinforced concrete. When attaching the gate to a brick post, three conditions must be met:

• Anchor the base of the post securely in the ground.
• Weld the gate hinges to it no less firmly.
• Close everything with decorative bricks.

The option of reinforcing a brick pillar with reinforcement or concrete without deepening into the ground does not make sense, the gate falls along with the pillars.

The method of attaching the hinges by welding to metal rods driven into bricks can be used only as a last resort with low weight. It is also necessary to hammer in the rods correctly, we will talk about this below.

Only the right approach- to combine all three entrance pillars into a single structure and install it in the ground according to the rules for the construction of foundations. In this case, the main part that keeps the "shape" is in the ground.

Scheme of a single foundation for brick pillars for gates and wickets

Then they are welded to the base or fixed in another way, the so-called mortgages. They are made with their own hands from what is: plates, corners, fittings. Look at the photo on the Internet and select suitable option to make embeds as invisible as possible in the background decorative finishing pillar. It remains for you to fix the gate frame or leaf hinges.

Let's consider the whole process in stages.

To keep the brick pillars from falling

Even light fence(professional sheet, picket fence) and does not require the laying of a strip foundation, it is necessary under the gate and wicket. To do this, they dig a trench to the depth of freezing and make a cushion filling from a sand-gravel mixture. Then a gate structure is installed on it and concreted for at least 0.5 m. After the concrete has set, the trench is filled with sand and crushed stone with their own hands, carefully compacting each layer.

The recessed part of the gate structure is a conventional truss. All three pillars are connected by pipes or a profile of sufficient thickness and strength, for example, steel pipeØ50 mm. One is welded at the very bottom, the other is parallel to it after 50-60 cm. For rigidity, the frame is reinforced with a short stand in the middle and braces. The corners must be reinforced with powerful kerchiefs.

The structure is cooked by hand or with the help of specialists on a flat platform, right angles and parallelism of the racks are observed. Before lowering into the trench, the tops of the pipes can be temporarily fixed by welding a profile or corner to all three.

How and when are mortgages established?

The question is controversial. If you weld them in advance, then you need to correctly mark the places of their installation, three for each of the gate leaves and two for the wicket. Then you need to conduct brickwork, so that the mortgages fall into the seam and look symmetrical and neat. Can you do it yourself? It's difficult.

It is easier during the masonry process to bring out all the fasteners at the desired height and fix them to the post by welding, bolts or a clamp. In this case, you can install them as accurately and beautifully as possible. Then painting it to match the color of the brick, you will hide all traces of installation.

It so happens that the pillars are already ready, but no one thought about mortgages. How to fix the gate to the brick pillars in this case?

There are two possible ways and both are not very good:

• Fastening through a "clamp". Around the finished pillar, a clamp frame is erected from the corner. Sometimes in rings in three places, sometimes along the entire height. We are no longer talking about any beauty, it would be strong.
• Fastening to reinforcement pins. In the right place, holes of a slightly smaller diameter than the reinforcement are drilled deep enough with a perforator. Begin to drill at the seam between the bricks and guide the drill obliquely from top to bottom. Reinforcement pieces are driven into the finished holes. Then proceed as described below.

We attach the hinges for the gate

Hinges are rarely attached directly to mortgages. It is practically impossible to accurately calculate the distance, and some of them will always work under load, and the rest will "rest". In order to distribute responsibilities as evenly as possible, a channel or profile is welded to the brackets prepared in this way, and the hinges of the gates and wickets are already welded to it.

The last stage is the most enjoyable

We hang the sashes and check the convergence, align them in height with adjusting washers, fix the porch for the wicket. Locks, locks, gate latches are installed in place. We wash, dry, clean the welding spots, primer. After drying, cover with two layers of paint.

You can make a reliable and relatively inexpensive fence for a site using a combined fence - the pillars are made of bricks, and the filling (spans) and any light material - wood, profiled sheet, forged fences. The view turns out to be solid, and the costs are much less than for "clean" brick fence... Moreover, the laying of pillars is not the most difficult thing, but it is profitable. Just two years ago, craftsmen asked for more than 2,000 rubles per pole, and today prices have more than doubled. You can fold brick posts for a fence with your own hands without the skills of a bricklayer. It is important to follow the technology and everything will work out.

Fence foundation with brick pillars

The choice of the type of foundation for brick pillars depends on what material the filling will be from and also on the type of soil. If the span of the fence is made of light material (corrugated board, wood), you can make a pile foundation for each post. The depth to which the pile must be driven / rolled depends on the type of soil and height groundwater... If the soil is prone to winter heaving (clay or loam) with high groundwater, it is necessary to bury it 15-20 cm below the depth of soil freezing. On well-drained soils (sands and sandy loams), it is enough to bury 80 cm.

Pile foundation for a brick fence post with easy filling

A pile foundation for a brick pillar is made using standard technology:

• a hole is drilled to the desired depth (diameter 25-35 cm);
• a bucket or two rubble is poured to the bottom;
• compact;
• they put a pipe around which they will subsequently lay the pillar (on heaving soils, several pieces of metal rods, tapes, corners are often welded to the buried part for greater stability);
• the pipe is exposed strictly vertically, fixed;
• for heaving soils, if metal pieces have not been welded to the pipe, you can stick several reinforcing bars into the hole; for very difficult soils, you can tie a frame;
• high grade concrete is poured - M300 or higher (read about the brands and composition here).

The length of the pipes consists of two values: from the part that is walled up in concrete and the part that will stick out from above. Moreover, the upper section of the pipe does not necessarily have to be up to the very top of the column in this case. It can be 40-50 cm shorter. An exception is the pillars on which the gate and / or wicket will be hung. Here, the inner reinforcement should be almost to the very top.

If the fence is planned to be completely brick or there are large wind loads in the region, most likely you will need to make a full-fledged strip foundation. Another option is piles tied with a shallow tape.

Fence construction with brick pillars on a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation

Read more about the types of foundations for different kinds of fences in the article "Foundation for a fence: how not to bury extra money".

Mortar and brick for posts

The mortar is made of cement-sand with a ratio of 1: 5 (or 1: 6). It is better to take sand of fine fraction, cement of high grade - not lower than M400. For plasticity, you can add a little liquid hand soap or detergent for dishes (20-30 gr. for a standard batch - 1 bucket).

It is important to obtain the desired fluidity when drawing up a solution. It should not be dry, but it is inconvenient to work with liquid either, therefore water is added gradually, monitoring the consistency of the solution. The desired state can be controlled as follows: spread a certain amount of solution on some surface, apply a cross on it with a trowel. Then take the marked area onto a trowel and watch the cross: it should not "float".

Optimal consistency of mortar for laying brick pillars

You can, if desired, get a black solution: add soot to it. It is sold in bags at home improvement stores. Add a small amount of carbon black and you get decorative seams without painting.

Black solution adds decorative effect

Any brick for pillars is used, just pay attention to the number of defrost-freeze cycles (the more, the better) and geometry. Ideally, the deviations in size should not exceed a couple of millimeters. Then it will be easy for you to work. If you find a lot of different sizes - carefully sort by size so that in one column the bricks have a minimum discrepancy.

Fence masonry: technology

In most cases, the posts for the fence are made in 1.5 or 2 bricks, the section is 380 * 380 mm and 510 * 510 mm, respectively, the height is up to 3 meters.

The laying is carried out with a bandaging (offset) - the seam of the lower row is overlapped by the "body" of the brick lying on top. The seam is standard - 8-10 mm. The scheme of laying posts in one and a half and two bricks in the photo below.

Brick pillars in 1.5 and 2 bricks

Laying pillars: order of work

Cut-off waterproofing is spread on the finished foundation. It can be roofing material in two layers, but waterproofing on bitumen mastic is better. This layer is necessary so that the brick does not "pull" moisture from the soil. If wet brick freezes, it quickly begins to crack and crumble. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. Rolled waterproofing can be replaced - twice smear the foundation with bitumen mastic, and in areas with high humidity it is better to make a double waterproofing - smear with mastic, and then also lay "Gidroizol".

According to the dimensions of the pillar, a solution is applied to the waterproofing with a layer of a little more than 1 cm.According to the diagram, bricks are laid on it. They are aligned in the vertical and horizontal planes by tapping with a special rubber hammer... Craftsmen can use the handle of the trowel, but, in this case, the remnants of the mortar can fly off the plane of the trowel, staining the hands and brick, and it is not wiped off the cement well.

Ceramic brick absorbs moisture very quickly, so if you hesitate a little, it will be difficult for you to "put" it in place. In order for the mortar to retain its plasticity longer, the brick is dipped in water for a few seconds before laying. The same maneuver makes it easier to wipe the solution from the surface (it is removed immediately, with a dry cloth).

Hammer down

The second row is also placed: a mortar is spread on the bricks, bricks are placed on it, but with a dressing - unfolding so that the seam is blocked. Level again. Then take a tape measure and check the dimensions of the stacked rows. Even a small offset of 1-2 mm is eliminated. They tap on the end of the brick (called a "poke"), moving the bricks closer. Then, if the side faces were not coated, the vertical seams are filled. All subsequent rows are laid in the same way.

If there is a void between the inner reinforcement pipe and the brickwork, it is filled. If the distance is short, you can use masonry mortar, if the void is significant, to save space, you can fill it up with crushed stone, tamp it, then spill it with a liquid cement-sand mortar.

Bar masonry

The masonry of the pillars described above has long been tested, but for beginners, when making their own, it is difficult to maintain an even seam. Another problem - the solution crawls out of the seam, staining the surface. It turns out not very nice. To facilitate the work, they came up with a masonry for a bar. Take a square metal bar with a side of 8-10 mm, cut it into pieces, 10-15 cm longer than the size of the post.

Bar layout

Having laid the first row, a bar is laid on it along the edge of the brick. The site is filled with a solution with a small margin, and closer to the pipe, the layer is made larger. Then, driving a trowel along the bar, remove the excess, cleaning the bar from the solution. But at the same time, the slope of the solution remains. They put a brick, level it. At the same time, the bar does not allow it to settle strongly, and the position of the other end is controlled by the level.

Apply the solution to the side face under the bar.

Then they take a short piece of a bar of about 10 cm (for a vertical seam), put it along the butt, apply the mortar with a trowel to the side of the laid brick, also removing the excess along the bar. The second brick is placed and leveled. After the level is set, the seam is pressed from above with a trowel, and the vertical bar is removed.

We take out the bar, holding the seam with a trowel

This is how all the bricks in the row are laid out. Then the rods are taken out, proceed to the next row. This technology of laying brick posts allows you to control the seams and make them neat. Even a novice amateur bricklayer can do this with his own hands. It is only important in the process to control the parameters of each row (so that the column in the section is of the same size).

Video lessons

A more complex version of a brick pillar - twisted with a screw

Features of working with ceramic bricks

Possible problems and solutions

The main problems that can arise when laying poles with your own hands are resizing and "twisting". Both defects are due to insufficient control.

When laying pillars with your own hands, often the upper rows become much wider than the lower ones. This happens gradually, adding a millimeter or even less, but in almost every row. As a result, at a height of 2 m, the column width is 400 mm and even more. This is instead of 380 mm. The fix for this error is to control the size of each row.

It is not enough to control the dimensions of the pillar only with the building level. Mainly used household tool (yellow color), but it has a rather large error And if the level has a length of 60-80 cm, you simply will not see insignificant vertical deviations. Therefore, they additionally use a tape measure - measuring each row. To reduce the time it takes to control, you can make a template according to the size of the post (for example, from flat strips) to check for deviations.

Fence posts are laid around a metal reinforcing pipe, the verticality is checked after each row is laid

Self-laying of pillars without experience of such work can lead to another mistake: the edges of the pillar can shift, while the pillar is twisted around its axis. This disadvantage is much more unpleasant: try to attach spans to such pillars. There will be many problems. Therefore, when laying each row, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the corners are located strictly one above the other.

You can make the task easier with two corners screwed to opposite corners. They are temporarily attached to the lower rows (with bolts or self-tapping screws in the seam) and then used as a guide, placing the bricks strictly in the corner.

Embedded elements and gate fastening

When laying brick pillars, you need to think about how you will attach the span to them. In order to be able to fix the horizontal guides for filling the fence, mortgages are pre-welded to the pipes located in the middle of the pillar. These can be corners, pins, "ears" for fastening wooden planks, etc. They are welded at the same height so that the attached crossbars are strictly horizontal.

One of the options is suitable for fixing corrugated board, picket fence

The options for mortgages may vary. Someone makes from the corner, someone has enough pins. It all depends on the type of filling of the fence (from which the spans will be made) or the mass of the gate leaf.

Options for mortgages in brick pillars

For different weights, elements of different power are needed

For gates or wickets, at least three metal parts are required with a metal thickness of at least 3 mm (preferably 4 mm or even more).

An example of the location of mortgages for swing gates

Device and installation sliding gates do it yourself are described here. How to automate swing gates read here.

Making a cap on a brick pillar

To protect the brick from moisture, the top of the pillar is covered with a cap. They are sold in a large number, there are metal, concrete or composite. If desired, a cap on a roofing iron post can be made with your own hands. Below is a diagram. You just have to substitute the dimensions, and then bend it on the bending machine along the outlined lines. They fasten the product with special rivets, but self-tapping screws can also be used. You just need to pre-drill the holes, coat them with anti-rust, then paint.

Drawing of a cap on a brick pillar

Photo ideas for fences with brick pillars

The most popular option is a corrugated fence with brick pillars.

Forging always looks good

Torn stone and picket fence - combined fence

Wood filling can be solid

Decorative brick pillars decorate the fence

The most popular burgundy color of corrugated board on the fence

In combination with a Euro-type shtaketnik

Twisted pillars for advanced bricklayers

If the gate is the face of the house, then the gate is a smile on it. Even if it is somewhere inside and leads to the garden. Do-it-yourself gate - a welcoming and relaxed smile. Therefore, it is necessary to treat the manufacture of this generally unpretentious product with diligence and soul.

Materials (edit)

Here the choice is not so rich. Plastic sections of the fence, gate leaves and wickets are durable, can be quite attractive and do not require preliminary earthworks, but, alas, they are not fire-resistant and do not show resistance to vandalism: it is easy to stick it into the ground - it is easy to pull it out of there. Outside of production conditions, plastics are low-tech and labor-intensive, therefore do it yourself wickets and are made most often of wood and metal. At the same time, plastic can be used as an auxiliary and finishing material, about which see below.

Note: fittings are also required for gates and wickets. To make it yourself (the elements of the fittings are not structurally difficult) or to buy is a master's business. What to choose effectively or take as a sample, see fig. right below. Something in addition, if and where necessary, see further in the course of the presentation.

In general about the design

It is customary to make the entrance gate opening inward. This is necessary, first of all, for the safety of both visitors and hosts: backing away from the swinging sash, the guest runs the risk of falling into the mud with his shoes, or even crashing onto the roadway. Also, if the gate opens outward, then the hinges of the hinges will be on the street, which will facilitate the work of potential intruders. If the swing gate can be made opening only outward, anti-burglar hinges should be installed, and either a viewing window should be made in the sash, or an intercom should be installed at the entrance.

The width of the gate leaf (sash without hinges and locks) is taken as for interior doors - 750-1000 mm. It is impossible to narrow its canvas to 600-650 mm, as for doors to utility rooms and common areas: one passes through the gate in outerwear. If you make it wider, then accidentally unlocked, it can slap in the wind so that it will twist the hinges. The height of the wicket is taken according to the height of the fence, but for the same wind considerations, no more than the height of the passage above the stairs, i.e. 1.9-2 m. Between the door leaf, the post on which it is hung, and other framing elements, a gap of 6 mm from the hinge side, from 80 mm below and from 2 mm along the rest of the 2 sides.

In order not to put extra pillars, which in this case is the most time-consuming, one of the gates is often made in common with the wicket: on the one hand, gate hinges are attached to it, and wicket hinges on the other. In any case, the "ridge" of this pillar should be steel, although a wooden pillar is also possible for the opposite collar. A reinforced common post is also required if the wicket is built into the gate. Then you need to take into account something else, see below.

Note: it is impossible to make gate posts in the form of an asbestos-cement pipe concreted and poured with concrete, as it is sometimes advised, - the entire post turns out to be fragile. Remember - gate pillars are not piles, they are subject to fast alternating dynamic loads and without an elastic base, the pillars will either crack or loosen quite soon.

If the fence posts are solid brick, then the gate must be laid in 1.5 bricks with a gate height of up to 1.6 m and in 2 bricks at a higher height, using special schemes (ordering) of 3-row dressing of seams for corner posts of fences, see Fig. ...

This business requires a fairly large experience of a bricklayer, but steel embedded parts for fastening the hinges still do not always hold securely. So it would be better to make brick gate posts by folding them around the ridge of steel pipe according to a simplified masonry scheme for intermediate fence posts; the rows of masonry then simply alternate in a mirror image.

Brick in this case is more decorative material, so that you can use a fragile, but beautiful facing: a pipe with a diameter of up to 120 mm will enter the central lumen of the post. Embedded, which have now become just overlays, are connected to it by pieces of reinforcing rods during welding, see fig. on right. The locations of the mortgages and their connections with the ridge must be calculated in advance so that they fall on the masonry seams, otherwise you will have to hammer grooves in the bricks. The pipe-ridge is concreted "in full", not less than 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth in the given area.

Note: in general, the erection and fixing of pillars and columns in the ground is a special branch of the construction industry. Concreting is required here especially reliable. For gates and wickets, it can be simplified using TISE technology, see eg. video below. By the way, the idea of ​​the authors is really good, but there is still no need to prime the concrete parts of the steel parts. And we will return to the wicket as such.

Video: concreting pillars for gates and wickets

About professional flooring

A wicket made of corrugated board is good not only for the availability of material, speed and manufacturability of manufacture, but also because the corrugated steel sheet gives the cloth additional strength. It is believed that they have a utilitarian look. However, gates with a wicket made of corrugated board can be refined in various ways, see below.

Wooden gates

Simple picket and rack

Wickets of low heights, or openwork, or located in places that are sufficiently protected from gusts of wind, are made of wood according to the so-called. the frame scheme, although in truth it is not a frame, but with a load-bearing sheathing: the entire canvas acquires the calculated stiffness only when overhead strips are installed on the "frame". For wickets of conventional sizes, the supporting supporting elements are made from a board (30-40) x (130-150), and the overhead strips are also made from a board (15-25) x (60-100). In this case, the "frame" is made according to the Z-shaped scheme, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig.

Wooden gates

If decorative filling very subtle and is not capable of carrying loads, the frame is made "butterfly" or " hourglass", In the form of an X-shaped support with crossbars along the edges. In the "butterfly" under the lathing of slats from 10x20 mm, 2 horizontal crossbars are placed, above and below, and the "hourglass", pos. 3, for any, even film, finish, framed on all sides. Such gates are more labor-consuming, because the support boards on the crosshairs are cut into half a tree, and the "hourglass" must also be cut into the frame.

For a wicket door extended in height, an E-shaped support structure, pos. 4. A special case is a wicket gate. The wicker is quite strong and tough, but not diagonally twisting. In the gate, the ground does not hold it back, so the fence made of wattle fence is reinforced with a Λ-shaped support. It is enough in this way to reinforce only the lower half, pos. 5, this does not deprive the wattle gate of its rustic appearance, especially when the tree darkens.

Garden and village

A garden gate is usually not uniformly drawn up and is executed in openwork. Then, in order to ensure the rigidity and strength of the canvas, it is made with a frame: all the loads are taken by a frame made of a bar from 40x100. Its parts at the joints are cut into half a tree on waterproof glue and pulled together by pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws. Excellent frame wickets are obtained from the folds of old doors and windows with fine glazing, pos. 1 in fig. For an oblique slatted lathing without a tie-in at the crosshairs, the corners of the frame are additionally reinforced with kerchiefs from the board (15-30) x (80-150), pos. 2. Sections of the frame for heterogeneous decorative filling are separated by cross members, pos. 4 and 5.

Solid entrance

Particularly durable, and when impregnated with fire retardants, synthetic resins and made of hard wood and anti-vandal, a wooden panel gate will be, see fig. left. In this case, the frame is made of timber from 50x150, and its parts in the corners are connected into a thorn-groove. A grooved board from (30-40) x100 is used for filling. The dimensions of the frame are taken such that an integer number of boards fit into its window without taking into account the height of the tongue of the tongue. A groove is selected inside the frame along the contour; one of the extreme boards enters it with the tongue of the tongue, and the groove of the opposite tongue is connected to the groove of the frame with dowels (lamellas).

Note: overhead hinges of frame and panel wickets can be shortened, see fig. on the right, the so-called. semi-barn (full-length overhead hinges - barn). Card loops cannot be used anyway.

Wicket - boom

A wooden lancet gate looks especially elegant in the garden, see eg. photo in fig. on right. An arrow-wicket is considered to be quite laborious, but in fact it is not difficult for a novice master to make it. The material is enough for a sheet of plywood 5-6 mm thick, and from a special tool you will need a jigsaw and, preferably, a screwdriver.

The scheme of cutting the material and assembling the pointed top of the wicket is shown in Fig. below. In total, you will need 12 parts, 6 per side. 4 medium ones, if necessary, narrow from the inside under the decorative filling (shown by the dotted line). Before assembling the boom, all blanks are twice impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion, if the plywood is ordinary construction or packaging. The “legs” of the 2 middle pieces have been shortened by about 100 mm to fit the tenon.

The lancet pommel is assembled on PVA glue and small nails with a notch or self-tapping screws. The length of the fastener is 20 mm for 5 mm plywood and 24 mm for 6 mm plywood. First, 4 front parts are assembled, including those shortened under a thorn, and then 2 remaining rear parts are attached to them. The parts are knocked down / screwed together with a "snake" (zigzag) with a step of 80-150 mm with an indent from the edge of 30-40 mm. The back "snake" should be a mirror image of the front one.

The straight legs of the "boom" can be shortened according to the overall design of the wicket. A spike is cut out at the upper ends of its vertical struts for the landing of the boom. They plant an arrow on the same PVA and reinforce it with 4 diagonal pairs of self-tapping screws, 2 in front and 2 in the back. The back pairs should be a mirror image of the front ones.

Gate and pergola

A pergola in a general sense is a structure without walls and a roof. For example, a garden pergola can simply be a lattice tunnel through which climbing plants... The classical pergola, a colonnade in 2 more rows, crowned with criss-crossing beams, became famous in Europe thanks to the ancient Greeks, but was invented either in Ancient Egypt or in Persia for palaces and temples.

The fact is that a classic pergola gives a rather strong psychological effect of the dominance of the structure and, accordingly, of its owner. In the oppressive East, the pergola was supposed to suppress the pride of the visitor before he approached the throne or altar. Unfortunately, there is no way to go into the subtleties of why this is so, but this effect is quite objective, like the pacifying effect of a mirror in a pond with water lilies or thoughts of abundance inspired by a lush flower bed.

Therefore, supply the entrance gate with a monumental pergola, as in pos. 1 pic., Better not: the guest may turn out to be the person on whom the course of your affairs depends. And then he will not know why he lost loyalty to you, and to you - why everything suddenly went into a splash.

In less authoritarian Europe, they understood this immediately, and the pergola, twisted to soften the pressure with flowers, was moved to the garden's relaxation corner, where guests are allowed at the choice of the owner. In addition, as soon as the arch was invented, they began to crown the pergola, pos. 2; rounded top significantly softens the dominance effect. In the chambers, the pergola was replaced with an enfilade, which inspires a sense of grandeur without belittling its dignity.

If, according to the general design, a classic pergola is still required at the entrance, then it should be made visually as light as possible, and the fence and gate should be openwork and as low as possible, pos. 3. Openness will nullify the dominance of the pergola. Another option is a single-row pergola, somewhat stylized as a Buddhist-Shinto idol, pos. 4. It evokes a feeling of belittling weaker and it is already associated with higher powers, which is not offensive to anyone in their right mind.

Metal wickets

The basis of a metal wicket is a metal profile; as a rule - a square steel pipe 60x60 (2-3). A rectangular frame is welded from it according to the dimensions of the wicket door. For reinforcement under the sheathing with corrugated board, the 1st cross member from the same pipe, located in the middle of the height of the canvas, is sufficient. If applied round water pipe, for reinforcement under the profiled sheet, you need to put a diagonal stiffener and strengthen the corners with kerchiefs from 200x200 to 300x300 made of steel sheet 3-5 mm. In this case, when sheathing with a sheet of 1.5 mm thick with a wave of 15x150, you can bring the width of the leaf to 1.5 m, this is already a real gate leaf, see Fig.

How a metal wicket door is arranged for any other decorative filling, incl. and wooden, see fig. below: the frame is additionally reinforced with the same cross member, but from a 40x25 (1.5-2) professional pipe, and 2 struts from the middle to the outer corners.

Reinforcement elements are welded edge-to-edge to the frame flush with the inner plane of the frame, this will give a recess for mounting the infill. Under it, from small parts (for example, a rack lattice), the same 40x25 (1.5-2) pipe, or a steel corner, is mounted inside the frame contour.

A gate of this design, trimmed with scrap metal siding, looks pretty decent, see fig. on right. And on the cladding of a garden or other, which cannot be reached by vandals, the remnants of any external finishing material will go: plastic lining, blockhouse, etc.

Note: the steel sash of the wicket, even without cladding, weighs more than 20 kg. Therefore, keeping in mind the same sudden wind loads, you need to take garage hinges for it, see fig. left. For a wicket, hinges with a diameter of (16-20) x120 with a ball stop are sufficient. More powerful ones on a support bearing, of course, will not hurt.

The “most complete” scheme for reinforcing a metal wicket, designed for any cladding and for operation in the most severe conditions, turns out to be not much more material and labor-intensive: it comes down to a short additional brace at each corner and mounting the wicket on a separate post. Frame drawing metal gate with a wicket for all occasions is shown in Fig. below.

The manufacture of such gates with a wicket has some peculiarities, namely: first, the gates themselves are made, with the exact installation of pillars, checking for opening-closing, etc. Then there is a technological break of 20 days, while concrete foundations gate posts will not gain 75% strength; in the meantime, you can make a wicket with a post. Its canvas is temporarily fixed tightly in a closed state with bolts or clamps. The cladding of the gates and wickets is not yet made.

• A post with a gate is placed in the well;
• Align vertically in the transverse plane, fixing with wooden inserts;
• The wing of the wicket is moved to the gate post, solid spacers are placed under its edge to ensure the required operational clearance, see above, and fixed with clamps;
• The pillar of the wicket is set vertically in the longitudinal plane, simultaneously controlling whether the installation is not strayed in the transverse plane, i.e. use 2 plumb lines;
• The wicket post is finally fixed and concreted;
• Sheathing of all doors and installation of fittings is carried out no earlier than 7 days (at +18 in the shade) after the concrete has set in the foundation of the wicket post.

Wicket at the gate

A lot of work and a lot of money will save a gate with a wicket built into the gate leaf. True, this applies only to metal swing gates. A wicket door built into sliding or overhead doors makes them so difficult self-production that, perhaps, it is better to put an additional post. If the gates are swing gates, then the wicket in their sash is made according to the following rules, see on the right in fig. below:

1. The pillar adjacent to the gate is made of steel reinforced (pipe from 100x100x4) and concreted for at least 1.2 m, regardless of the depth of freezing.
2. The width of the gate leaf is made no more than half the width of the gate leaf.
3. The scheme of strengthening the gate leaves is preserved, but on the gate with a wicket it seems to be compressed horizontally.
4. The frame of the wicket door is made with a cross member made of the main pipe (60x60x3) and a pair of diagonal stiffeners made of 40x25x pipe from the middle to the outer corners.

With wooden gates, the situation is somewhat more complicated: it is possible to put a wicket in the wing of a wooden gate without losing overall strength in this case, only if the gate is made of solid solid (and expensive) wood. If the gate is made of ordinary coniferous wood, then the wicket must be hung side by side, and the post common to it and the gate must be steel, concreted to its full depth. In either case, the gates and wickets are framed with an additional diagonal stiffness tie (see on the left in the figure) from a bar from 150x50.

Different wicket differences

Portal

A gate portal is not necessarily a pergola, it has only recently become fashionable. Most often, a canopy (visor) is made over the gate from the rain, on the left in Fig. It does not require extra space outside (which is no longer the owner's property), but it is convenient for the guest, and there is a reason to respect the owner. According to the old rules of hospitality, it was considered good form if the portal-canopy of the gate was brought out at least 3-4 feet (approx. 0.9-1.2 m). Inside - as much as you like, even as a continuous tunnel to the porch.

Note: of modern materials for the roof of the portal-canopy is best suited cellular polycarbonate... relatively inexpensive, technologically available for do-it-yourself manufacture, strong, durable, aesthetically well matched with a fence, gates and wickets made of any material or their combinations.

The second type of wicket portals is constructive and technological. These are designed primarily to ensure the strength of the capital stone fence, on the right in the same place. Providing the main portal of the gate with a canopy with anyone, nowhere and in any way is not prohibited.

Fences with gates and wickets made of mesh are not very aesthetic, they do not block anything from the view, but they are inexpensive, technologically not complicated, little laborious and more maintainable than others. Therefore, they are most often used to protect households, premises for productive pets, etc. For the sheathing of the fence, they use mainly the Rabitz mesh as a more technological and durable one.

The peculiarity of the gate leaves and gates from the mesh is that the sheathing, on the one hand, is not capable of carrying any load itself; on the other hand, it can be blown freely and gives very little wind loads. Therefore, the frames of the sashes can be made from a corner from 40x40 for a wicket and from 60x60 for a gate. But in both cases, the reinforcement must be in the form of at least the 1st full diagonal connection, as in a gate on a frame made of a round pipe, from the same corner, see fig. Gate posts - round pipe from 100 mm in diameter or square pipe from 60x60x3.

Wrought iron gates

A good hand-forged wicket door to order, on the left in the figure, will hardly cost less than 35-40 thousand rubles at current prices. And nevertheless, a wrought-iron gate, and a unique one, for an average-income householder may not be such an unaffordable luxury at all.

Lazy people don't make blacksmiths. In their free time, blacksmiths craftsmen forge monograms, flowers, etc. from leftovers and scraps. for sale. A lot of work will either be, or not, and small forged decorative elements will always find a sale. Here they can be purchased at fairly reasonable prices. There is also a decor for gates with wickets on sale, forged (more precisely - stamped) in production conditions, but such products of the same type are all the same, but handmade there is manual work.

The wicket, sheathed with the most utilitarian smooth steel sheet, with piece forging superimposed on it, takes on a completely different look, in the center in Fig. Forging goes especially well with wood. Take a look at the one on the right in fig. To give respectability to a completely unassuming picket gate on a Z-frame, only 3 small forged parts are enough. That's really really cheap and cheerful.

You will need

• - pipe Ø100 mm;
• - corner 100x100 mm;
• - angle grinder ("grinder");
• - welding machine;
• - cement;
• - sand;
• - edged board and timber for formwork;
• - carpentry tool;
• - shovel and bayonet shovels.

Instructions

Cut the blanks for the gate. For racks, use a Ø100 mm pipe or a 100x100 mm angle. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned door height of 2 m, the length of the workpieces should be 2.8-3 m.
Make the jumper connecting the posts from a corner 100x100 mm. Its length must be equal to the width of the gate. For standard gates, it is taken equal to 3 m. If a pipe is used as a rack, cut off one corner shelf on both sides at an angle of 30 ° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well to the posts when they are welded.

Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more even place for this. It should look like the letter "H" - two posts and a jumper laid between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: the parallelism of the racks to each other and the perpendicularity of the lintel in relation to the racks.

Weld the jumper to the uprights. Both corner shelves must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will play the role of reinforcement, firmly connecting the lintel to the foundation.

Dig a trench to fill the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for 3-meter gates). The required depth of the trench is determined taking into account the depth of freezing of the soil, its type, and the level of groundwater. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of freezing of the soil in your area, which can be found on construction sites.

Craft wooden boards from edged boards and assemble the formwork from them. Its dimensions in the plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the walls of the formwork slightly expanding to the bottom - in order to avoid the pushing effect of the soil on the foundation.

Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the posts or the lintel and fix the posts on both sides with stops. Place reinforcement of any kind of metal in the formwork - wire, scraps metal profile etc.

Prepare sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1: 4 (cement: sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. While pouring, tamp the mortar with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation must be level with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, allow the solution to harden - at least a week.

Do-it-yourself is not such a time-consuming process as it might seem at the very beginning of work. The most important thing here is to have necessary materials and tools. During their manufacture and installation, it is imperative to observe safety precautions and be especially careful when cutting metal. This type of gate is ideal for a private house and summer cottage.

Advantages of swing gates:

• simplicity of design;
• installation that does not require special skills;
• low cost;
• versatility of application;
• long service life.

Disadvantages of swing gates:

• Availability free space for opening the doors;
• in the winter season, clearing the territory.

In fact, these shortcomings are considered so insignificant that they do not at all affect the popularity of this type of gate among the owners of a private courtyard.

And despite the new offer, modern designs and technical innovations, swing gates in comparison with others have been the leaders in use for many years.

Basically, for the production of gates, a profiled sheet is used, less often a tree.

Required materials for making a gate:

• profiled sheet;
• sheet steel thick;
• profile for the frame;
• foundation racks;
• loops for fastening the canvas;
• padlock hinges;
• latches;
• concrete solution;
• bricks or stones;
• roofing material.

Gate mounting tools:

• tape measure, pencil, building level;
• welding machine;
• a set of keys;
• drill and grinder;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver.

How to install swing gates correctly

1. Do-it-yourself installation of the doors is carried out on pre-prepared and already installed supporting pillars. Bearing pillars can be made with your own hands from hardwood, concrete, metal pipes with a cross section of no more than 10 cm. They can also be made from stone or brick pillars.
2. Before this, the pillars need to be concreted in special pits. We do this for good fixation of the pillars, which should not be adversely affected by the condition of the soil and other possible mechanical influences in the future.
3. If a profile or metal pipes are used as pillars, then a metal sheet measuring 250 by 250 mm is welded to one of their ends. This is to ensure that the pillars are firmly in the ground. For better balance, you can additionally weld 2 pieces of reinforcement to this structure, interconnected crosswise. And while the racks are in a free position, weld canopies to them.
4. Now you need to correctly install and concrete the pillars. In this regard, it is necessary to dig 2 holes, with a depth of at least 60 cm and a diameter of 30 cm.
5. In order for the foundation to be strong enough, the bottom of the pit is filled with concrete, and the walls are lined with roofing material.
6. A support is placed on the concrete, which is aligned vertically and fixed with bricks or stones.
7. A little rubble is poured and concrete pouring begins. The liquid mixture must reach the level of the horizontal surface where the pillar rests.
8. Thus, alternating concrete, stones and crushed stone, you should ensure that the installation of the post is correct and clear.
9. Pouring the pillar with your own hands stops when the level of the mixture reaches the ground level or slightly above.
10. The second support is installed in the same way.
11. In the process of work, it is necessary to constantly monitor the exact verticality of the racks and their height. Before cutting off the pipes, they must first be tried on to the pits. After all, each support can have its own depth and length, and it also depends on the soil of the earth.
12. If a stone or brick is used as supports, then a hole is dug and the laying of a brick or stone on a concrete solution begins. But here you need to do it yourself with reinforcement. And in order to be able to carry out installation work, metal plates and corners should be fixed and removed from the racks.
13. Regardless of the material used, the assembled posts will be finally ready for fastening the sash in about 20 days. It is after this period that they will acquire final strength and it will be possible to install the gate. But in practice, the sash is fixed in a week.

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How to make a gate frame

You will need to take a pipe for the frame, for example, rectangular profile size 30 by 50 mm. The pipe is marked according to the dimensions made in the door opening and cut into the required lengths. The segments are welded together with a simple horizontal seam, using electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm.

Welding is best done in the following way:

• lay out all the details of the frame on the ground;
• connect them together with light welding;
• fit all the details to one another to get an even quadrangle;
• boil the joints well;
• Reinforce the joints with sheet steel plates.
• Do the same with the second part of the hangers; weld it so that a gap of about 8 cm remains between the ground and the canvas.

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Hinges for swing gates

Since the whole structure will be held on the hinges, their quality should be paid Special attention... Hinges for gates and wickets must be massive, that is, garage. Two hinges for each leaf and separately for the wicket will be enough.

Since hinges for this purpose are held on metal, they must be adapted for such fasteners. This will require 6 plates measuring 3 by 4 cm with a metal thickness of more than 3 mm. From pipe scraps, you can cut out the necessary rectangles with your own hands and straighten them with a hammer. Finished plates must be cleaned of rust.

The hinges consist of 2 parts, the part with the pin is welded to the post, and the other part is welded to the shutters. The place of welding should be cleaned and holes drilled in the “ears” with a diameter of up to 3 mm. On each plate, the number of holes will be different: 4 pieces for the shutters and 1 piece for the post.

The gate is an important part of the fence. Through them, the entrance to the territory is carried out, the import of necessary things. They perform not only a protective and transmission function, but also act as an element landscape design... Therefore, it is so important to install neat, presentable canvases and pillars for the gate, which will emphasize the style of the site design.

According to the rigidity of the structure, there are pillars under the gate:

• intensive use. The entrance structure is often a product with massive bolts / electronic lock. The opening in this case is 5-8 m, and the weight of the shutters is from 0.5 to 4 tons. Industrial and commercial bases are equipped with such gates. Supports to them must ensure the stability and evenness of the flaps;
• periodic use. They act more as a guarding than a protective structure and are equipped with a chain or barrier. Racks for them should not meet any increased requirements, except to ensure the strength and performance of the entrance group.

Which gate posts to choose according to the material of manufacture? The most common are:

• wooden racks. These are the first supports that people began to use when building a fence, but over time they were replaced by more modern, wear-resistant materials. Due to the low bearing capacity, susceptibility to decay, damage by insects, the need for regular additional processing, wood is used very rarely as gate posts.

Features of installing supports for swing / sliding structures

Sliding gates are an entrance structure with canvases that move on rollers along a rail fixed to the ground. They are convenient in that they allow you to fully open the opening for the passage of large vehicles and provide an opportunity automatic control... Pillars for sliding gates can be made of any material, the main thing is that they be concreted to a depth of freezing of the soil (from 1 m).

Important: brick and concrete supports should not have voids inside. Their strength is increased by metal inserts that are fixed inside each rack. Also, a support bracket, a web catcher, is installed in the pillars of the sliding gates.

The most common gate design is swing gates. They are easy to install and operate, but are susceptible to wind loads. If you fix them incorrectly, over time they will deform, become difficult to close and look unattractive. Therefore, it is important to correctly install the pillars for swing gates.

For their construction use shaped tube, wooden beams, concrete. The supports are cemented in the ground by at least 1 m. Brick / stone posts are additionally reinforced to increase their strength. A channel or professional pipe with a cross section of at least 10x10 cm is laid inside them. Metal corners are welded to the rod, which are brought out to fasten the hinges.

Installation of supports for the entrance structure

So that the canvases do not walk, do not sag over time, you need to know how to correctly install the pillars for the gate. The basis for reliable installation is a strong foundation, a rigid connection between the supports, which is carried out:

• at the top of the racks;
• on the crossing line;
• underground.

The connection between the posts is carried out by laying I-beams between them and fixing all structural parts by welding.

On a note: when entering a large vehicle section, the upper crosspiece between the supports can be made removable.

If the entrance structure is planned to be built into a brick fence, the installation of pillars for the gate will be different. First, you need to calculate the number of racks for the entire fence. On the ground, markings are made - pegs are hammered first in the corners, and then every 1.2-1.5 m from them.

Advice: it is better to draw this scheme on paper, this will allow you to make accurate calculations.

Installation of brick supports is a laborious process that requires a certain investment of time. First, it is necessary to fill the foundation for each pillar, and then carry out the laying. For work you will need:

• brick (full and hollow);
• sand, cement, crushed stone;
• water;
• shovel, level.

The base for the gate can be common (ribbon), or separate. In the first case, a trench is dug along the line of the entrance structure. Its bottom is covered with a layer of rubble, and then a reinforced concrete screed is formed.

In the second case, according to the diagram and markings, they dig holes for the supports. When you reach the sandy layer, you can start pouring concreting. For this, a mixture of sand, crushed stone, cement and water is prepared in a ratio of 3: 3: 1: 1. It is poured into the pit until it is level with the ground. Drying of the foundation is carried out throughout the day. After this time, you can lay the waterproofing and start laying.

How to put supports if the soil is not sandy? To do this, make holes 0.8-1 m deep.A dense sand pillow 20 cm layer, then concrete is poured.

There is another way to lay the foundation. For this, the pits are completely filled with rubble. Sand is poured over it, which is washed with a stream of water. So it will fill in the small gaps between the stones. The final stage is concrete pouring.

Installing the metal base

To increase the resistance of brick pillars to the loads on the gate, use a metal rod (professional pipe or reinforcing bars). This foundation should be anchored in the foundation at the stage of concrete pouring. It will strengthen the structure and increase its rigidity.

Remember: the rod must be longer than the brick support. It is deepened into the ground by 1/3 the size.

Installation of mortgages

If you equip the brick supports with only a metal insert inside, then this structure itself will be useless. This will not provide the entrance structure with sufficient strength. It is necessary to additionally make mortgages for the gate in a brick pillar. They are formed from:

• corners;
• channel bars;
• pipes.

These elements are driven into the lower and upper parts of the support. Then the channel is welded to them.

Tip: if you are unable to complete this action with your own hands, there is an alternative way. In the channel, you can pre-make holes for the embedded ones, and after joining the parts, they can be additionally attached by welding.

For high pillars (from 2 m), a third channel is required. Its length must correspond to the opening of the gate. This channel is buried in the ground along the line of the canvases, welding its ends to the two previous ones and pouring a concrete mixture.

Note: it is possible to strengthen the structure with a fourth channel, which will pass over the top of the pillars. For its fastening, special "ears" are provided.

Brickwork

After the concrete has set, the construction of the pillars is started. They are formed into 1.5 bricks. The first rows are recommended to be made of solid blocks, the rest of the hollow ones. The evenness of the masonry is checked by the level. To maintain the same seams, square steel rods of a small cross section are used.

The voids formed inside the column are filled with pebbles and poured with concrete. This increases the strength and stability of the structure. In the process of masonry, mortgages are installed for fastening the gate. How to weld them?

The first mortgage is fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the foundation. It should move away from the inner metal rod and protrude slightly beyond the end of the post. To fasten the gate to brick pillars, 6 such mortgages must be made. At the end of the masonry, jointing is performed to give the structure a neater, presentable look.

Fastening the gate to the posts

How to weld gates to posts? To do this, you need to hang loops on them. It is not recommended to weld them directly to the mortgages, since the load on the elements may be different, which will lead to deformation of the structure. How to do it right?

To do this, use a channel or other rolled metal, which are welded on both sides of the gate to the brackets connected to the post. After that, loops are attached to these elements by welding. The posts for the wicket are installed in the same way.

With pillars made of bricks, it is not only a reliable, but also a beautiful element of the fence of the site. If all technological aspects are observed during the installation of supports, fastening the sashes, such a structure will last for many years without losing its appearance and functionality.