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How to avoid or fix the most common mistakes in the heating system

Boiler room

Not enough air to sustain combustion

The boiler is equipped with atmospheric burners, combustion air is taken directly from the boiler room.

The boiler will start to work poorly, intermittently, with drops, go out, sometimes pops are heard (not always, sometimes the boiler “slams” if air has entered the gas pipeline for some reason), etc. if the air supply is insufficient.

This situation is not so rare - often calling the masters with the question “ why does the boiler go out?»We forget about oxygen for combustion.

It is easy to fix the situation with your own hands - install ventilators, or ventilation in the wall of the boiler room, and in its door.

How to fix: Installation of ventilation in the boiler room, holes in the boiler room door.

The boiler is installed in a damp room.

If a boiler (even a liquid-fuel one, even a gas one) is installed in a room with high humidity, it will wear out and break down many times faster - this is an axiom. It is clear that this situation can be corrected only by installing a boiler room in a dry and ventilated place. Also take note of the fact that in a room where a solid fuel boiler and a gas or liquid fuel boiler are installed together, the latter will also break faster due to dirt and work worse.

How to fix: Plan ahead for the boiler room in a suitable room. Do not edit solid fuel boiler and gas or liquid fuel.

If the chimney is too low

The chimney must be made so that it has a so-called "effective height" (ie this is the distance from the outlet to the furnace) which allows the combustion products to be removed without hindrance.

For oil boiler effective height 5 meters, for gas at least 4 meters.

If the chimney is shorter in length and height, then the draft will not be enough. If the boilers of the old designs are at least thin, but work "refreshing" the air in the boiler room with the products of fuel combustion, then the boilers of the new design with draft sensors in the chimney will simply turn off.

In lower chimneys, the chimney draft will be insufficient. In this case, modern boilers equipped with chimney draft sensors will turn off, and in old boilers, combustion products can penetrate from the firebox into the room.

How to fix: Make a chimney of the desired height in advance, as a rule, it is provided for in the project of a house under construction.

Installation of a shut-off valve in the heating system

For safety reasons, there should be no shut-off or shut-off valves in the heating system. Many people make them in order, for example, to start up heating in a "small circle" and not warm up the whole house. This is dangerous because if you accidentally close the shut-off valve, it will not be able to get into the expansion tank, and if so, then it will have nowhere to expand and when the temperature rises, the heating system can simply break, and no modern automation installed in the boiler will not be able to guarantee you the opposite.

How to fix: Do not turn on the taps at all ...

If the boiler is bought too powerful

"You can't spoil porridge with butter" is not about heating ...

Often we buy boilers with the expectation of a hypothetical "growth" of the house - extensions, attics, etc. Then we settle down in the house and the desire to make an annex disappears.

You should not buy a boiler that exceeds the capacity laid down in the project of a new house - it is not yet known whether to build a house or not, but it is not known why it will be spent on a more powerful one, which means that a more expensive boiler will have to be spent right now.

After all, the required thermal energy and the need for it is calculated based on the most unfavorable conditions, for a temperature of -6 to -25 degrees, and such days during heating season a little, and during them the boiler works at full capacity. That is, roughly speaking, in the boiler, calculated in the project, there is already a certain power reserve "for future use".

How to fix it: Do not buy a more powerful boiler than is necessary in this house or buy and be sure that you will definitely build - otherwise money is down the drain, and an increase in heating bills.

Heating system

The use of pipes for the heating system that are not designed for this purpose (for example, plastic pipes for water supply installation).

If for the installation of the central heating system you use pipes that, to put it mildly, are not intended for this, then there are only 2 options for the development of events - either the service life of the heating system will be several times shorter, or constant accidents.

For the installation of the heating system, use

• Welded steel pipes(as a rule for the most traditional, conventional systems with branching and installation of risers).
• Copper pipes

• Plastic anti-diffusion pipes

Any pipes that will be used for a heating device must have a certificate confirming this.

How to fix: Use pipes designed for heating and nothing else.

The diameter of the pipes of the heating system does not match the one described in the project.

If the pipes are smaller in diameter, then the hydraulic resistance increases.

If the diameter is larger, then this will increase the inertia of the heating system, higher energy consumption (after all, the coolant needs to be heated), an imbalance occurs in the system, and they are more expensive.

The cross-sections of the pipes must always correspond to those specified in the project: pipes with a smaller cross-section increase the hydraulic resistance to the flow, and a larger one:

How to fix it: It is important to make a heating system in advance from pipes with a diameter stipulated by the project documentation for the house.

Heating system made of pipes made of different materials

Each material has its own coefficient of thermal expansion. Not all pipes are compatible with each other, not only in physical but also in chemical indicators and properties.

For example: aluminum and copper are not compatible with each other, since a reaction occurs at their junction, which in turn causes accelerated corrosion of aluminum.

How to fix: use when installing heating at the junction various materials dielectric gaskets and add corrosion inhibitors to the water as the main heat carrier, which will slow it down, but will not completely eliminate it.

Tip: Also, when installing a heating system, use all the components of the same manufacturer (and pipes and fittings) so as not to lose the warranty, which is possible only when using parts of the same production.

Heating wiring is wrong.

High-quality materials for installation and installation of a central heating system is a matter of course, because these are not wallpapers that you don't like and you can stick others directly on the old ones. As a rule, the heating system usually breaks down during the period of intensive use - and therefore in winter. I think it's not worth describing the consequences of this. Therefore, heating must be done seriously and for a long time, which means it is correct and in accordance with the project.

Based on this:

1. Lay heating pipes in a chimney or ventilation duct or shaft.
2. Try to avoid routing pipes through expansion gaps, and if this cannot be avoided, route them in thermowells.
3. If some of the heating pipes pass under the floor, then lay the plastic ones inside special protective pipes, and therefore take into account their increased coefficient of thermal expansion.
4. The section of the system mounted under the floor (if plastic) must be made in one piece - from the radiator to the collector.
5. Plastic pipes are very sensitive to mechanical deformation and damage, and their fragments between the floor and the connection to the battery, the radiator must be protected by sleeves as well.

At the heating section passing through unheated room no thermal insulation

This is fraught with an increase in the cost of heating the house. After all, water passing through an unheated part of the system cools down (and quite decently, depending on its length).

How to fix: Actually to make thermal insulation, there are now a lot of materials for thermal insulation of pipes, they are inexpensive.

Installation, assembly of air valves (Mayevsky valves) in the system

The heating system in the house must be equipped with air valves. For the best effective removal air from the heating system, it is better to mount them on risers (at the highest points) or on heating radiators (they are often equipped with them already at the factory)

Access to them should always be, traffic jams in the system are not such a rare thing. Therefore, do not force them with furniture, drawers, books, etc.

It is best to use automatic air valves. They have a special float that, depending on the presence of water or air, descends releasing air and eliminating the plug or floats up, blocking the hole when the water has gone.

There are also automatic air valves with a float that lowers when air is present (blows air out) and floats up (closes the opening) when water is present.

Convenient filling of the system with water.

If the system is made of pipes of small diameter, if it is large and complex (for example, in a two-story or multi-level house), then the longer it takes to fill it with water, while simultaneously removing the air that forms the plugs from it.

So that this does not turn into a painful task, install a faucet and a branch pipe at the lowest point of the heating system with the ability to put on a hose coming from the water supply. If you do it, you can expel the air from the system for a couple of trifles, and you can fill the heating with water within 5-7 minutes (this is how much the system fills in my 2-storey building. wall) from the expansion tank on the second floor).

Water from the system - to drain for the summer or not?

I will answer briefly - do not merge. If there is a need to make repairs, maintenance or modernization of the heating system - drain, do the necessary things and if everything is in order, fill it back.

I talk a lot on this topic with other masters - everyone in a holo says that heating breaks down more often if the water was drained in the summer.

Installation of a room thermostat that controls the operation of the boiler in the wrong place

Such places can be a place too lit by the sun, a draft, a "dull" room. In this case, it will react incorrectly and it will be either too hot or cold.

Lack of the required headroom when installing underfloor heating.

Incorrect installation of underfloor heating most often happens when the decision to install them is made after the construction of the house, or, for example, after renovation.

All this happens because the layer of thermal insulation, for example, on interfloor overlap the layer of thermal insulation is much smaller than a similar layer laid on the ground, and the necessary headroom required for a floor heating system directly depends on this distance.

Photo 1: To complete the underfloor heating system, it is necessary to provide for an appropriate margin in thickness so that all the layers provided for in the project fit

How to fix it: Decide in advance whether you will be installing underfloor heating or not, and calculate the required estimated height.

We did not check the underfloor heating system for leaks before closing it with a finishing floor covering(screed, laminate, tiles).

Be sure to check after the installation of the underfloor heating whether its installation is correct and hermetically sealed. It may easily happen that you are not to blame when installing the underfloor heating system with your own hands - but the manufacturer who released the marriage is to blame and the system "leaks" - it is better to check everything right after assembly than to break the tile or screed later.

They made a screed for the system of plastic pipes, but they did not fill it with water.

Similar to the previous error, but not the same. The bottom line is that during the installation of the screed material stress in the pipes arises and often leads to damage, both of individual units and of the entire system. The situation is, of course, quite rare, but it should not be written off from the accounts - since filling the system with water in advance is not a lot of hassle. In addition, this way you will protect the screed from cracks.

Expansion gaps not made or made incorrectly.

Expansion gaps serve to prevent cracking, deformation and possible cracks in the heated surface.

So the device of expansion gaps is necessary:

1. If the room or other room is narrow and long (more than eight meters long, and one side of the room is more than 100% longer than the other)
2. Under the doors
3. In rooms with a large area
4. If a room, a room complex shape("G" or "T" shaped).

Attention: The expansion gap must be made through ALL (!) Layers, up to finishing... It is usually filled with special tapes.

We turned on the warm floors for heating when the screed had not yet dried out.

Since the overwhelming majority of the installation of the "warm" floor system takes place under the screed, then this mistake is often common. The owners turn on the warm floor immediately after pouring the concrete in the hope that the screed will "dry faster". The result is cracking of the screed, which means you will have to break it and make a new one.

What to do: Do ​​not rush, but let the screed dry naturally.

Errors in connecting radiators and fittings

When installing the heating, the "supply" and "return" in the radiators were confused.

The overwhelming number of radiators with bottom connection have such a device in which the supply pipe of the heating system must be connected to the branch pipe that is closer to the center (i.e. internal), and the opposite, on the contrary, to the extreme.

If the panel radiator is connected incorrectly and vice versa (supply to the extreme, external, and return to the internal), then the heat transfer can decrease by 50%, sometimes even more.

Connection of a panel radiator with top connection to the system inside the floor.

This is not to say that this is a mistake - sometimes masters resort to this connection method as needed, but in any case it is fraught with a decrease in power and the formation of an air plug in the panel radiator.

Installation of decorative screens on radiators

Also, in principle, by and large, this cannot be called a mistake, especially in houses with old batteries, which are easier to "completely paint over than to tear off" ...

It's all about the circulation of hot air and heat transfer - it can drop up to 20% when installing a blank screen, especially if the gap between the battery and the floor from below and the window sill and radiator from above is small.

Exit: Do not install any protective screens at all or install screens in the form of lattices.

Installing the screen next to the thermostatic valve.

If you install a screen next to the thermostatic valve, then it will react to the readings incorrectly, since it will be in hotter air than the rest of the living space and will stubbornly turn off the heating in the radiator when the room is still cold.

How to fix: Outlet 2 - do not install screens nearby or install a thermostatic valve with a remote sensor installed in the desired part of the room, away from the radiator.

Installing the thermostatic head vertically

Warm air from the radiator, the battery will rise vertically, in an ascending direction, "enveloping" the head sensor, as a result of which the sensor head will contact not with the main mass of air in the room, but with the heated air from the battery - the readings will be incorrect, and the thermostatic sensor will be work wrong.

How does a thermostatic valve work?

Thermostatic valve (thermostat) consists of a valve and a thermostatic head. Its principle of operation is simple. Under the influence of temperature, the substance that is in the bellows of the head increases its volume. This causes pressure on the stem and closure of the valve. The hot water flow through the radiator is stopped. Conversely, if the room temperature decreases, the bellows is compressed and the valve opens the flow of hot water through the radiator. The rotary dial with dial can be used to set the desired room temperature. It can usually be set in the range of 6-28 ° C. The minimum temperature - 6-8 ° C - is the so-called watch. If the room temperature falls below this value, the valve automatically opens; this prevents freezing of the water in the system and excessive cooling of the room.

Photo 2: Principle of operation and drawing diagram of the thermostatic valve

In the drawing in numbers:

DIY heating installation tips

1. A valve must not be installed on the pipe connecting the expansion vessel to the boiler. Accidental overlap can destroy the system.
2. The flue of a boiler installed in the attic may be too short. For installation in such a place, a boiler with a closed combustion chamber is more suitable. Air supply to it and the removal of combustion products will be carried out through a coaxial pipe-in-pipe channel, led through the wall or roof.
3. One of the conditions correct work of the boiler is the supply of air to it sufficient for combustion. For this, an inlet can be made in the outer foam. From the boiler room side, this hole should be approximately 30 cm above the floor.
4. A gas boiler, especially a modern one, will only work well in a clean, dry and well-ventilated area.
5. It is desirable that the entire system is made of one material. But some boiler manufacturers recommend installing the area next to the boiler in plastic systems from copper or steel pipes.
6. Steel pipes, in comparison with plastic ones, have a significantly lower coefficient of thermal linear expansion.
7. Laying plastic pipes in the floor, given their high coefficient of thermal linear expansion, is only necessary in protective pipes.
8. For the installation of the central heating system, only the pipes intended for this should be used. The pipes must be marked accordingly.
9. To prevent the system from leaking during operation, the system installed in the floor must be connected from the collector to the radiator in one piece and, after installation, carry out a pressure test.
10. The pipe section between the floor and the radiator must be laid in the wall or covered with protective sleeves.
11. Manual air valves are standard on new radiators. In addition, automatic air valves are used to remove air from the system.
12. Special brackets are used to fasten the pipes to the floor. In places where pipes pass through the expansion gap, they are laid in special sleeves (top photo), which protect against possible damage.
13. If you really want to close the radiator, it is better to use an openwork screen for this. It is also necessary to leave the thermostatic valve head uncovered.
14. A vertically installed head will reduce the flow of hot water into the radiator more than it would if it were installed correctly. As a result, the room will receive less heat than necessary.
15. A head with an external (remote) thermal sensor. The length of the capillary connecting the sensor to the head is 2 m.
16. For panel radiators with bottom connection, the supply pipe must be connected to the inner (closer to the center) branch pipe, and the return pipe to the extreme one. Reconnecting will reduce the power of the radiator by almost half.

In this article, we will consider the design of a heating system, if you have chosen Tichelman's scheme(passing-overlapping), which was already mentioned in one of the previous articles. A separate article is devoted to this scheme because of its (the scheme, not the article) advantages.

Tichelman wiring device

Let me remind you: Tichelman's scheme looks something like this:

The main advantages of the Tichelman circuit: versatility, good controllability (each radiator can be adjusted separately).

All radiators operate under practically the same conditions in terms of coolant flow rate and pressure drop, with equal surface areas, they also have equal heat transfer.

Despite the apparent complexity, this complexity ... just apparent. You just need to practice drawing such diagrams on the plans.

How to get around the door when installing a heating system according to the Tichelman scheme?

What to do if an obstacle is encountered during installation according to the Tichelman scheme? For example, a door:

And not only when installing the pipeline according to the Tichelman scheme, but also according to any other scheme.

There are several options.

Simplest:

Here the door is bypassed with a pipe from above.

Important! In the area above the door, an automatic air vent must be installed so that air does not accumulate.

Minus: appearance the premises will still be the same; especially if it is living room rather than a hallway. Yes, the automatic air vent tends to leak from time to time, which is also not pleasant.

Another variant:

We pass under the door. That is, the pipe goes below floor level. Is there such a possibility? Not always: maybe the floor has already been made, or maybe there is such a screed that you can't grind it out ...

"Normal heroes always go around ...". So we can go around the room in the opposite direction:

Why not?

Tichelman's scheme for piping radiators of two floors

This option is shown in the figure:

Moreover, here not each floor is individually tied according to the Tichelman scheme, but the entire system. The main pipes (supply and return) are made of metal-plastic with a diameter of 20 mm, radiators are connected to them with a 16 mm pipe.

Tichelman's scheme for piping radiators of three floors

We look at the picture:

Here, too, not each floor has its own harness, but one harness made according to the Tichelman scheme for all three floors at the same time. The risers are made, for example, with a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 26 mm, the supply and return on floors with a diameter of 20 mm, and outlets to the radiators with a pipe of 16 mm.

But still! If possible, it is better to connect each floor separately and with its own pump, otherwise, if there is one pump for all floors, then if the pump fails, there will be no heating on all floors at once.

So, let's draw conclusions.

Tichelman's scheme has advantages over other radiator piping schemes: 1) versatility (suitable for any premises, layouts, etc., including large areas); 2) all radiators warm up evenly. Despite the external complexity, it is quite affordable to master the installation of heating according to this scheme. Just read again about the pipe diameters with such a layout. And - use it. Good luck.

Tichelman's scheme

Hello. In the frame under construction one-story house area = 70m2, there is a furnace area = 5m2 (1.7x3m). Is it possible to install a solid fuel boiler there for radiator heating and hot water supply (kitchen + shower). Schematic diagram heating: two-pipe, forced, closed type. Thanks to. Arsentiy.

How to get around correctly outer door, 2-pipe heating system of the House. Thanks. Arsentiy.

Hello Arsentiy!

Very indicative required thermal power boiler for your home - 10-12 kW. The boiler room area of ​​5 m2 is sufficient for its placement, provided that the ceiling height is at least 2.5 m. However, the room is a bit narrow. Most likely, 1.7 m is enough to maintain the boiler and observe fire-prevention distances, if the walls and ceiling are lined with non-combustible material or protected with thermal insulation panels. There is even room for a small supply of firewood. It is also necessary to maintain a distance of at least 2 m from the place of laying firewood (door opening) to the opposite wall. More precisely, you can say, knowing the brand of the boiler and the location of the furnace in the house. The heating scheme and the structure of the building in this case do not matter.

Get around - in the same way you get around obstacles. By the side. For a door that stands upright, the sides are above and below. Accordingly, the heating supply line in a system with natural circulation can be located above the door, under the ceiling, and the reverse, below the door level, in the floor screed. If the movement of the coolant is carried out using a pump, both pipes are more convenient and easier to place in the floor. And you can also think about a project and find a solution in which the heating pipes will not intersect with the door at all.

Two-pipe system with forced circulation, the supply and return lines are hidden between the logs of the wooden floor, without interfering with the opening front door

Arseny, we are worried that the question you asked us belongs to the category of "kindergarten". This is not even about complex heating technology, but about the simplest hydraulics. Principles of the movement of liquids - a physics textbook for the 7th grade of a comprehensive school. If its solution caused you difficulty, how are you going to independently equip the heating in the future? After all, there will be more and more questions, and they will become more and more complicated. It will take quite complex calculations for a "teapot", special knowledge. Apparently, you are trying to study heating engineering from articles on the Internet and so far your understanding of the subject has not advanced very far. It should be understood that this is a rather complex science, heating engineers have been taught for five years and, alas, not always successfully. Perhaps, having spent a lot of time and nerves, you will even be able to assemble a more or less efficient heating system. However, will it be rational? Or do you have to invite "crisis plumbers" to fix mistakes?

Perhaps you should focus on your main job, where you are successful? We strongly recommend that you consider involving professionals in the heating of your own home. First of all, the designer. The specialist will optimally calculate the parameters of the system, which will make it economical and efficient. The little money that you spend on the project will pay off due to the rational, without overspending, choice of materials and moderate operating costs. Thermal comfort is also worth something. If you still decide to install the heating yourself, if you have a project, it will be much easier to do this than without it. Accurate adherence to drawings will be required, free time, neatness and an expensive tool that you can rent and not buy.

Ensuring the comfort of staying in the premises of the house at any time of the year is one of the main concerns of the owners. But efforts to insulate the walls, to install an appropriate heating system can be in vain if the heat is free to escape through windows or doors. This is especially true of those buildings in which, for one reason or another, they open very often or even remain open for a long time.

Simple situation: the owners of the house open a family business - a workshop, a shop or office space... On the one hand, numerous customers are great, but at the same time, frequent opening of doors can quickly cool off even a well-heated room, and this is a serious cost of energy resources. Another option is the specifics of the activity of a private workshop, equipped in a garage or in a special annex, requires constant or very frequent opening of the gate (). To provide ourselves with acceptable conditions for effective productive work in winter time will have to spend exorbitant forces and funds to maintain normal temperature... But there is a way out - in both cases, the heat curtain on the front door should help.

What is a heat curtain for?

What was easier to understand the purpose of the thermal curtain, you should first figure out how cold air enters the house through open doors... This process is due to several reasons - the difference in temperatures outside and inside the room, caused by this difference in different pressure levels. And plus a very important reason - this is the movement of air masses along the street - wind, vortex currents created from passing vehicles, etc.

Fragment "A" shows the movement of streams of cold and more warm air through a doorway in "calm" conditions. Cold air is always denser, and high blood pressure just squeezes out the lighter warm one. At the same time, the cold stream is always located closer to the floor - everyone, for sure, in their everyday practice felt how "pulling cold" from under the loosely closed door.

The wind component is added to this quite common exchange (fragment "B"). It is, of course, a variable value, depending on the direction and speed of the wind, stability or periodic gusts, the size of the doorway and other parameters, but in general, such an application of the vector of movement of air masses is still present.

As a result, as a result of the addition of both factors, we get the picture shown in fragment "C" - the "channel" of the cold air intake increases even more in area, occupying most of the doorway. In such conditions, if the door has to be kept open or is often opened, no one will be able to cope with heating the room. heating equipment, which will "thresh" in idle. In addition, constant strong drafts are walking through the rooms, dramatically increasing the likelihood colds even if people are dressed for the season.

And what if you apply a fairly narrow but dense directional air flow. So that its pressure exceeds even the theoretically possible values ​​of the external and internal pressure (fragment "D"). If the parameters of such a flow are correctly calculated, then it will become an obstacle to the exchange shown above, blocking off air masses outside and inside the room. Somewhat curving its configuration under the influence of external pressure on it, the flow still retains the necessary "composure" and splits only upon reaching the floor surface, dividing into two directions. A certain part goes outside, but still more significant - it comes back into the room (fragment "E").

How can this effect be used?

• Picture "a" - winter time. The air receives the necessary heating, and the resulting curtain not only does not allow cold masses to pass inside and does not allow heated masses to escape outside, but also, returning to the room, "helps" the heating system.
• However, it would be a big mistake to consider the air curtain too narrowly, only as a kind of heating device. Picture b shows her work during the warm season. The situation changes to the opposite - the cool internal air does not come out (although its density in this case is higher), and the outdoor air warmed up by the summer heat cannot enter the room. Thus, the rooms maintain a comfortable temperature for people to stay.
• But that's not all. Regardless of the season and the operating mode, such a curtain performs another important function (picture "c"). A lot of dust is always suspended in the street air, especially if there is a busy highway or even a railway line in the immediate vicinity. For the same reason, the air can be overfilled with exhaust gases. Naturally, if all these "bonuses" get into the premises, the local microclimate will suffer significantly. But the heat curtain will quite cope with such a problem. This also applies to falling snow, fine drizzling rain, and in summer time- hordes of small annoying insects.
• And one more application. With the help of such air curtains it becomes possible to zone the premises according to the type of microclimate created in them. For example, it is possible to “fence off” a spacious entrance hall (where an elevated air temperature is not particularly needed, and an unreasonable amount of energy will be spent on heating such a room) from the internal living or working premises, without even installing additional doors.

So, creating an air curtain helps to deal with a lot of problems. And all this can be achieved by installing a special device.

Despite the fact that the air curtain itself is a consumer of electricity, its use provides considerable benefits. So, practice shows that a correctly selected and installed device allows you to save up to 30% on energy spent on heating the premises in winter and air conditioning them in the summer. And if the owner thinks more broadly, he will not be able to fail to notice that the absence of cold drafts will dramatically reduce the cost of medicines for households or sick leave payments for his staff.

Another important advantage is that with such a rich spectrum of possibilities, the device itself practically does not take up any useful space in the space of the room.

For clarity - a small animated video on the principle of operation of thermal curtains:

Video: how a thermal air curtain works

How an air curtain works

As a rule, an air heat curtain is an electrical device assembled in a case of a pronounced elongated shape.

In the upper part of the body there is a grill (pos. 1) through which air is drawn from the room.

At the bottom there is an outlet slit-like window (nozzle) (pos. 2), which can be equipped with movable shutters like shutters.

Control elements (pos. 3) can be located on the body itself, in a place accessible for visual control and manipulation. The control panel, in addition, can be portable and located on the wall of the room in a convenient place.

There may be a terminal block on the case for connecting to the mains power supply, but on household models, there is most often a pre-wired cable with a plug for connecting to a socket (pos. 4).

On many modern models, it is also provided, in addition, remote control using an infrared remote control (the same as in split-system air conditioners).

The main task of the thermal curtain is to create a powerful air flow. This means that the blower fan becomes the main unit of the device. Usually these devices are not of the usual blade type, but of the turbine type, of two varieties - a more compact radial (pos. "A") or an elongated tangential type (pos. "B").

Pos. "C" is a heat exchanger, where the air flow receives the required heating when needed. The vast majority of models have an electric heat exchanger, where air is heated from spirals or heating elements. However, there are stationary models of air curtains that are connected to existing hot water heating circuits.

Many modern air curtains have built-in filters, which simultaneously clean the air blown through the device from suspended dust.

Electronic circuits of modern curtains provide multi-level protection against short circuit, breakdown to the case, overheating, have thermostatic control modules for the heat exchanger heating level and fan speed.

Air curtain classification

There are several gradations in the classification of heat curtains.

By location relative to the doorway:

• The classic design of most air curtains is a device with horizontal installation above the doorway (gate, window, etc.)

• Sometimes, due to various technological or aesthetic reasons, the installation of a heat curtain from above may be impossible or irrational. For such situations, vertical devices are provided, which are installed "in columns" on one, or even on both sides of the doorway.

In this regard, many models have increased versatility - their design allows, taking into account the specifics of the room, to install them both horizontally and vertically.

By installation type:

Most of the models have a metal case, the design of which implies mounting the device on a wall. However, if to interior design Since the premises have any increased requirements in terms of design, then you can choose a thermal air curtain that is built into the ceiling or wall along the height of the opening.

By the presence and type of heat exchanger:

According to this criterion, all air curtains can be divided into three groups:

• Curtains with electric heat exchanger. Usually in the classification they are marked with serial designations. Rs, RM or RT.

Advantages - maximum simplicity of the device and installation of the device, high rates efficiency, the ability to smoothly adjust the heating temperature of the air flow.

As heating elements on older models, conventional spirals were used, but now this approach has been practically abandoned everywhere, since open heaters "burn out" oxygen and quickly dry the air in the room. Currently, tubular heaters are used by the type of all familiar heating elements, or more modern semiconductor RTS (Positive Temperature Coefficient), which have the ability to self-regulate heating and electricity consumption.

The disadvantages of electric heat exchangers are significant power consumption (not counting the costs of ensuring the operation of the fan), and some "inertia" at start-up - the heat exchanger takes a certain time to reach the operating mode.

• Air curtains with water heat exchanger (series RW).

In such models, electricity is consumed only to ensure the operation of the fan and the control group. This, of course, makes water curtains much more economical in continuous operation.

In the case (outside or hidden) there are nozzles for connecting the device to the existing circuit of the water heating system (shown by arrows in the figure).

Branch pipes for connecting the supply and "return" of the heating system of the house

The disadvantages of this type of air curtain are obvious - it is a lot of difficulties during the installation process. It is necessary to provide for branches from the general contour in advance, and provided that the aesthetics of the interior is preserved, such an operation can be quite problematic. The heat exchanger of such a curtain has a small tubular structure (like a radiator in a car), which will quickly clog if a filtering device is not provided. In addition, the consumed thermal power of such an installation must correspond to the real capabilities of an autonomous heating system so that the connection of the curtain does not affect the heating level of radiators in other rooms.

• Air curtains without heat exchanger (serial designation - RV).

Such devices are used in conditions where additional air heating is not required for a year. They protect well from street dust, gas pollution, insects, from leakage of conditioned air outside. Find wide application in industrial practice - for the zoning of spacious rooms, protection against the ingress of warm air into freezers or storage, etc.

By the level of power (performance) and, accordingly, the purpose:

• K series Rs include mini-curtains with a limited scope. Their performance is sufficient for effective "covering" only small openings, for example, windows for receiving visitors that go out into a cold lobby, or customer service windows in street kiosks, transport ticket offices, etc. Usually they are designed for openings no more than one and a half meters high and up to 800 mm wide.

Air flow rate and pumping volume per minute are not high. In everyday life, such thermal curtains practical application do not receive.

• Air curtains series RM- this is the largest group of devices that are designed to be installed in most existing standard doorways, with a height of approximately 2.5 to 3.5 meters. Including, they are suitable for or for the transition from a cold hallway to the residential sector of the house.

Thermal curtain of the middle class - it is quite suitable for the front door

Such devices are the most "popular". It is these series that are most often equipped with convenient external units or remote control panels.

• Powerful air curtains series RT are used to protect high openings, from 3.5 to 7 meters. This can be the gate of a car workshop, warehouse or industrial premises, entrances to large shopping centers or buildings of cultural and social purpose.

Very often powerful installations of the series belong to this category. RW connected to central heating or hot water systems public buildings and industrial buildings. the cost of water thermal curtains is significantly higher than that of electric models, comparable in performance and size.

There are also heavy-duty thermal curtains that are capable of creating an air barrier in openings and passages up to 12 meters high.

Prices for popular models of thermal curtains for the front door

How to choose the optimal heat curtain

The choice of an air heat curtain has its own characteristics, which you definitely need to familiarize yourself with before going to the store.

In addition to the already mentioned selection criteria - according to the installation site (horizontally or vertically) and the principle of operation of the heat exchanger, be sure to pay attention to the following characteristics:

• The dimensions (to a greater extent - the length) of the device itself, that is, the width of the air curtain it creates.
• Productivity, that is, the ability to pump a certain amount of air per unit of time.
• Heat exchanger power.
• Equipped with useful adjustment options.
• The degree of protection, that is, the level of operational safety of the device.
• For the interior design of the room, the appearance of the thermal curtain is also important.

Thermal curtain dimensions

The defining parameter, of course, is the length of the device. It must provide the required air flow over the entire width of the doorway, preventing free gaps for the penetration of cold or dusty masses from the outside. As a rule, the length of such devices is in the range of 600 ÷ 2000 mm.

For standard doorways, curtains with a length of about 800 mm are usually purchased. With a competent approach, it should be taken into account that the width of the air flow should be at least equal to the clearance of the doors, but even better if it is slightly larger.

There is one more nuance. The technology for the production of air blowers somewhat limits the length of the turbine (up to 800 mm), since when these dimensions are exceeded, the vibration phenomena sharply increase, which requires a rather expensive "suspension".

The length of the turbine is usually limited to 800 mm

Trying to minimize costs in the production of "long" models, many manufacturers follow the path of simplification: they place the electric drive in the center of the device, and the turbines - on the left and right, achieving the desired length. Such an arrangement may have a serious drawback - a "dip" or an area of ​​reduced pressure may form in the center of the created air flow, which can become a loophole for air to enter from the outside.

If the width of the doorway is greater than the length of the model you like or even commercially available devices, it makes sense to purchase two curtains (and sometimes more), and install them close to one another.

Performance indicators of the thermal curtain

It is quite clear that the heat curtain should create an air flow, the "density" of which, that is, the internal air pressure would exceed the external one at any point in the doorway, from the installation site to the floor (on the opposite side of the doors).

It was determined by calculations that such required parameters are retained at the speed of the air layer at the point of meeting with the obstacle of at least 2.5 m / s. Naturally, due to air resistance, the speed decreases with distance from the device.

The speed and density of the air flow depend on the working diameter of the turbine, the speed of its rotation and, therefore, on the overall capacity of the injection unit. For example, the table below clearly shows the dependence of the effective range of the thermal curtain depending on the diameter of the turbine - in some cases, you can focus on the following indicators:

Distance from the outlet nozzle of the heat curtain	Air flow rate depending on the fan installed in the heat curtain
	Fan working diameter
	Ø 100 mm	Ø 110 mm	Ø 120 mm	Ø 130 mm	Ø 180 mm
0 m	9 m / s	10 m / s	12 m / s	14 m / s	-
1m	7 m / s	7 m / s	11 m / s	10 m / s	-
2 m	4 mps	4m / s	8 m / s	7.5 m / s	-
3m	1.0 ÷ 2 m / s	1.5 ÷ 2 m / s	5 mps	6 mps	-
4 m	-	-	2 ÷ 3 m / s	5 mps	-
5 m	-	-	-	3 mps	-
6 m	-	-	-	1.0 ÷ 2 m / s	-
0 m	8.5 m / s	8.5 m / s	12 m / s	12 m / s	15 m / s
1m	6.5 m / s	6.5 m / s	10 m / s	9.5 m / s	13 m / s
2 m	3 mps	3 mps	7 m / s	9 m / s	11 m / s
3m	1.0 ÷ 2.0 m / s	2 mps	4 mps	5.5 m / s	9 m / s
4 m	-	-	1.0 - 2.0 m / s	4 mps	7 m / s
5 m	-	-	-	3 mps	5 mps
6 m	-	-	-	1.0 ÷ 2.0 m / s	3 mps
7 m	-	-	-	-	2 mps
8 m	-	-	-	-	1.0 - 2.0 m / s

Most often, in the technical documentation for the product, the manufacturer directly indicates for which maximum dimensions of the opening a particular model has been developed. The performance of the system is also indicated there, usually in cubic meters per hour. It is considered that pumping 700 ÷ 900 m³ / h is considered optimal for a standard doorway with dimensions of 0.8 ÷ 1.0 × 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m. However, if you look at the equipment catalogs, you will often find curtains with much more modest values. There is no unity of views among manufacturers on this issue.

There are special algorithms for calculating the parameters of thermal curtains, which take into account not only the linear indicators of the installation site, but also the features of the location of the entrances to the building, the average temperature drops for a particular region, the prevailing direction of the winds, etc. Such calculations are the lot of specialists, and if it is not enough for someone to choose a model of the characteristics declared by the manufacturer, then you can contact the appropriate design organization.

Why is the issue of performance so acute? The efficiency of the air curtain functioning directly depends on it.

• Fragment No. 3 schematically shows the operation of a correctly selected model of the heat curtain. The air flow retains its "density" to meet the obstacle, and then about ¾ is reflected back into the room.
• Fragment No. 2 - a heat curtain with excess capacity is installed. The speed at the floor surface is too high, and the flow is broken up so that a significant part of it is carried out. Of course, this leads to completely unjustified losses of expended energy.
• And fragment # 3 shows what will happen if the capacity of the flow being created is not enough. The external pressure of the air masses outweighs, and at the bottom of the doorway a wide "window" opens for cold outside air. The sense of installing such a heat curtain is generally very doubtful - it simply does not play any significant role.

Heat output of the air curtain

Oddly enough, this indicator is not decisive for a heat curtain - this is their fundamental difference from seemingly related devices - heat guns or floor heating convectors installed at doors and windows or built into the floor.

The operation of the air curtain heat exchanger is not aimed at maintaining optimal temperature indoors, but only for partial compensation of heat losses through the door. It's clear. that part of the heated air during operation in the "winter" mode returns back to the room, but this circulation should only have an auxiliary effect on the heating system functioning in the building, but not replace it in any way.

At high speeds of pumping air, give it too high temperature- the task is difficult and very energy-consuming. Usually, in most models, the temperature increase is limited at best to 20 degrees, and by thermostatic elements control, the maximum value, as a rule, does not exceed 30 ° С - more from the heat curtain is not required.

But the total power consumption is worth paying attention to. The parameters of the dedicated power supply line, the machine in switchboard at home, RCD, etc.

Management and protection systems

All electric air curtains are equipped with two levels of control: one is responsible for creating and maintaining the specified air capacity, and the second for the operation of the heat exchange unit. At the same time, the protection system will never allow the heater to turn on when the turbine is not running, which protects the device from overheating.

The most simple, inexpensive models have preset levels of performance and heating of heating elements, which cannot be changed (the only exception is that you can completely turn off the heating when operating in the "summer" mode. However, such cheapness and simplification of the design are hardly justified for use in a private house - everyone wants to be able to optimally adjust the microclimate in room.

More complex models are equipped with step regulation, for example, they have 2 ÷ 3 turbine power levels and the same number of gradations for heat exchanger heating.

However, in recent years, electronic control air curtains have become the most popular, which opens up the possibility for owners of smooth precise adjustments.

The presence of a thermostatic sensor will significantly save on electricity consumption - the automation will turn on or off the heating element unit only as needed.

Air curtains can be completed with remote control units, which are located on the wall. Models with remote control panels are convenient in operation.

Like all modern electrical appliances, the heat curtain must be equipped with several degrees of protection against short circuits, overheating, phase breakdown to the case, voltage drops, etc.

Constructors and designers of manufacturing firms try to make the thermal curtains externally so that they do not spoil the interior of the room with their appearance. Some models can even become a kind of decoration for the entrance lobby.

Installation of a thermal curtain

Self-installation of thermal air curtains, although not encouraged by manufacturers, is still quite possible, especially when it comes to the most common - completely electrical models... In terms of complexity, it is much easier to install household air conditioner.

Can I install the air conditioner myself?

Installation of an air conditioner usually requires special skills, since when installing a split system, you will need to properly charge it with refrigerant. How it is done - in a special publication of our portal.

The main thing is to provide a power line of the required power, the necessary safety and protective devices (automatic and RCD), a connection point for the device.

The set of the thermal curtain, as a rule, includes brackets (or a mounting panel), fasteners for hanging it above the doorway. The entire installation will mainly consist in carrying out a thorough marking, fixing the mounting parts on the wall plane and then hanging the device itself. It can be quite massive, so you should exercise reasonable care, or even better, enlist an assistant.

After installing the appliance, if it is equipped with adjustable shutters, they should be positioned at an angle of approximately 30 ° from the vertical towards the entrance. On many models, the design of the air nozzle provides a similar flow slope.

Signal cable routing and wall mounting of the remote control unit may be required. All these nuances are always described in detail in the installation manual for a particular model, and you should familiarize yourself with them in advance, even when choosing a curtain, in order to really assess your capabilities.

Installation of a curtain with a water heat exchanger is a much more complicated event, which often requires special heat engineering calculations and the installation of an additional collector or pumping equipment... Taking on such activities without experience is not worth it.

Find out, and also read the advice of a professional, in our new article.

Video: a few recommendations for choosing a thermal curtain for the front door

IN country houses most common heating system... This is due to the lack of centralized or no passage in most rural areas main gas pipelines... For heating, boilers of small sizes are used, working on solid, liquid fuel, electrical energy and natural gas with delivery in cylinders. Most commonly used water heating, characterized by simplicity and reliability, compactness and hygiene. The main equipment with this method includes the following elements:

• hot water boiler;
• radiator batteries;
• water pipes;
• expansion tank;
• shut-off and control valves.

Traditionally used heating schemes

Depending on the type of pipe laying route and the connection of pipes to heating devices, the following systems are distinguished:

1. Single pipe... The circulation of the heat carrier is carried out through one pipe without the use of pumps. On the highway, serial connection radiator batteries, from the very last through the pipe the cooled medium is returned to the boiler ("return"). The system is simple to implement and economical due to the need for fewer pipes. But the parallel movement of streams leads to a gradual cooling of the water, as a result, to the radiators located at the end of the series chain, the carrier arrives significantly cooled. This effect increases with an increase in the number of radiator sections. Therefore, in rooms located near the boiler, it will be excessively hot, and in remote rooms, it will be cold. To increase heat transfer, the number of sections in the batteries is increased, different pipe diameters are installed, additional control valves are installed, and each radiator is equipped with bypasses.
2. Two-pipe... Each radiator battery is connected in parallel to the pipes for the direct supply of the hot coolant and the “return”. That is, each device is supplied with an individual outlet to the "return". With the simultaneous discharge of cooled water into the common circuit, the coolant returns to the boiler for heating. But at the same time, the heating of heating devices also gradually decreases as they move away from heat sources. The radiator located first in the network receives the hottest water and is the first to give the carrier to the “return”, and the one located at the end receives the coolant as the last one with a lowered heating temperature and also the last to give water to the return circuit. In practice, in the first appliance, the hot water circulation is the best, and in the last one it is the worst. It is worth noting the increased price of such systems in comparison with one-pipe systems.

Both schemes are justified for small areas, but ineffective with long networks.

An improved two-pipe heating scheme is Tichelman. When choosing a specific system, the determining factor is the availability of financial capabilities and the ability to provide the heating system with equipment that has the optimal required characteristics.

Tichelman heating feature

The idea of ​​changing the principle of operation of the "return" was substantiated in 1901 by the German engineer Albert Tichelman, in whose honor it got its name - "Tichelman loop". The second name is “reversible type return system”. Since the movement of the coolant in both circuits, supply and return, is carried out in the same, concurrent direction, the third name is often used - “scheme with concomitant movement of thermal carriers”.

The essence of the idea consists in the presence of the same length of straight and return pipe sections connecting all radiator batteries with a boiler and a pump, which creates the same hydraulic conditions in all heating devices... Circulation loops of equal length create conditions for the hot coolant to pass the same path to the first and last radiators with the same thermal energy being received by them.

Tichelman loop diagram:

Installation procedure

The work consists of the following operations:

1. Boiler installation. The required minimum height of the room for its placement is 2.5 m, the allowable volume of the room is 8 cubic meters. m. The required power of the equipment is determined by calculation (examples are given in special reference books). Approximately for heating 10 sq. m requires a power of 1 kW.
2. Mounting of radiator sections. The use of biometric products in private homes is recommended. After selection the required amount radiators, their location is marked (as a rule, under window openings) and fastened using special brackets.
3. Pulling the line of the associated heating system. It is optimal to use reinforced-plastic pipes that successfully withstand high temperature conditions, characterized by durability and ease of installation. The main pipelines (supply and "return") from 20 to 26 mm and 16 mm for connecting radiators.
4. Installation of a circulation pump. It is mounted on the return pipe near the boiler. The tie-in is carried out through a bypass with 3 taps. A special filter must be installed in front of the pump, which will significantly increase the life of the device.
5. Installation of an expansion tank and elements that ensure the safety of the equipment. For a heating system with a passing flow of the heating medium, only membrane expansion vessels are selected. The elements of the safety group are supplied complete with the boiler.

To line the line of doorways in utility rooms and utility rooms, it is allowed to mount pipes directly above the door. In this place, in order to exclude the accumulation of air, automatic air vents are necessarily installed. In residential areas, pipes can be laid under a door in the floor body or bypassing an obstacle using a third pipe.

Tichelman's scheme for two-story houses provides for a certain technology. Piping is performed with the tying of the entire building as a whole, and not each floor separately. It is recommended to install one circulation pump on each floor while maintaining equal lengths of return and supply pipelines for each radiator separately in accordance with the main conditions of the associated two-pipe system heating. If you install one pump, which is quite acceptable, then if it fails, the heating system in the entire building will turn off.

Many experts consider it advisable to install a common riser on two floors with separate piping on each floor. This will allow taking into account the difference in heat loss on each floor with the selection of pipe diameters and the number of required sections in radiator batteries.

Separate passing scheme heating on the floors will greatly simplify the setup of the system and will allow for optimal balancing of the heating of the entire building. But in order to obtain the desired effect, it is imperative that a tie-in into the path of the balancing crane is required for each of the two floors. The taps can be placed side by side directly next to the boiler.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Tichelmann system

Main advantages:

• versatility for indoor installation for various purposes, layout and size. Possibility of installing a large number of devices. Optimal heating of summer cottages with uniform heating during short overnight stays in winter;
• there is no need for complex balancing with the installation of expensive adjusting equipment;
• uniform heating of all rooms in the building with the ability to adjust the heat output by each radiator;
• ease of installation and maintenance of the system;
• durability of operation and rarely occurring breakdowns.

Cons:

• high cost caused by the increased length of pipelines and the inability to use small diameters;
• it is not always possible to lay the hinge around the perimeter of the house due to the interfering features of the architecture (high window and doorways, flights of stairs and other obstacles).

The emergence of modern circulation pumps with the ability to efficiently pump coolants made the associated heating system one of the most popular.