How much does the stretch ceiling drop after installation? Six simple and effective ways to visually reduce the height of ceilings How to lower a plasterboard ceiling by 40 cm.

V panel houses, when two plates are connected on the ceiling, especially if one is slightly lower than the other, then the problem of leveling the ceiling is very acute and the only way out is to lower it a little. This solution is also acceptable in a situation with high ceilings. The lowered ceiling makes it possible to reduce the finishing area, put built-in lighting, and make the ceilings even.

First of all, you need to decide on the material. The most used materials for the ceiling are plastic and plasterboard panels... In addition to these materials, you also need to purchase a metal profile for the ceiling as an alternative - wood bars.

Determine the amount of lowering the ceiling (remember what functions it should perform). Using a building level, a pencil, a tape measure, mark the amount of decrease on the wall, draw a line that is always straight. Along this line, you need to fix the bars and the profile.

Prepare the profile in advance, drill holes in it with a drill to fix it on the wall. Carefully, strictly along the drawn line, apply a metal profile to the wall and through drilled holes make marks on the wall.

Depending on the wall material, choose a hammer drill or an electric drill, pick up the right size a drill that matches the diameter of the dowel used in the future. Precisely and accurately drill all the marks in the wall. Drive plastic dowels into the holes, thus fixing the profile on the wall. This operation should be done around the entire perimeter of the walls. Control constantly with a level how smoothly the mount goes. The connection process is the same for profile and timber.

The next step is to attach the hangers to the ceiling surface. They are placed strictly along the line. Fasten the hangers with dowels-nails. If the length of the suspension is less than the ceiling drop distance, then install two fastened suspensions.

For convenience, pull a strong thread, fishing line from one wall to another. This will be the level at which you will fix the profile using small self-tapping screws. Using them, you fasten the profile to the wall and ceiling. For these works, invite a partner so that it is convenient to fasten and level at the same time. The bars are attached to the ceiling, in the same way as the profile, but use corners to fasten it to the wall. The work on the box is finished.

Now it is necessary to put drywall on the structure made, pre-cut to size. Fasten the drywall with self-tapping screws to the profile (timber) on the wall. When attaching plastic panels, use small screws (bugs). The panels are inserted one into the other using end locks, make sure that no gaps appear when they are connected, and only then screw it on. When using timber, fasten plastic panels furniture stapler... Using this algorithm, you yourself can lower the ceiling.

In this article, we will be able to learn how to properly make a plasterboard ceiling based on metal and wood profiles. Suspended ceiling is a very common type design solution because it is functional and very beautiful. It is very important to install drywall to the ceiling correctly, especially if you are making ceilings with your own hands. Let's see the detailed instructions.

Structures that are based on metal profiles and drywall sheets are very popular today, since they allow you to translate into reality any designer's idea. Any shapes can be created from drywall, but they can be securely fixed. Due to the ease of assembly, even novice builders or just design lovers can work with drywall. In addition to being unique, a plasterboard ceiling can improve sound insulation, improve design, and make your ceiling perfectly flat. First you need to understand the materials that are intended for false ceilings... The main component of the design, of course, is the plasterboard itself.

Experts advise using drywall sheets, the thickness of which is no more than 9.5 millimeters. These sheets are much thinner than standard 12mm sheets. Ceiling sheets are not always sold in regular stores, so instead of wasting time looking for them, it is better to use regular panels of the specified thickness. If you are making repairs, which is stored relatively high humidity, for example, a bathroom or a kitchen, then it is best to use moisture-resistant panels, which are made in green. The sheet width is standardly 1.2 meters, but the length can be different sizes- 2-4 meters.

Plasterboard false ceiling frame

To assemble the frame, you need to use metal profiles: a guide with a size of 27x28 mm and a rack 60x27 mm. The profile length is always 3 meters. To increase the length of the profile, you can use a butt joint, which is inserted inside, and then fastened with self-tapping screws.

With the help of suspensions, you can level the plane and give it relative rigidity. In hardware stores, you can find straight hangers, which are very convenient to use in work. Other types of suspensions are very difficult to adjust, and they are unreliable due to the large number of defects. Perpendicular rack profiles can be fastened using a cross-shaped connection, also called a crab. If you are installing the ceiling in a small room, then it will not take you much time and effort, but it is better to still find yourself an assistant.

Installation of a single-level false ceiling

The description of the assembly of a single-level false ceiling can be started with the gypsum board. If you learn how to assemble single-level ceilings yourself, then in the future you will be able to mount multi-level ones. But don't start with complex designs, as you will get confused halfway through the work. If you start learning with simple things, you will very quickly master the basics of installing complex ceilings.

The installation of the false ceiling must be started with the markings. First of all, determine how many centimeters you allow for the ceiling. If you plan to install spotlights in your project, then you need to add 3-4 centimeters to the thickness of the ceiling. If you will not be installing light fixtures, then lower the ceiling by a distance of 5 to 10 centimeters. Then check the evenness of the ceiling, since the frame must be mounted on a strictly horizontal line, and in modern houses sometimes there are drops of several centimeters.

First, you need to determine where the low angle is in the room, and then measure the distance from it to which you need to lower the frame.
Then, with a level, draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the ceiling and be guided by it when attaching the guide profile. You need to carefully base your marks on as the evenness of the ceiling will depend on it.
In order to make the markings, you need two people and a hydro level, which allows you to draw very long lines.
You can also use a laser level which is very easy to use, so you can do it all alone.
You just need to decide in what way you will raise the device to the ceiling. For this purpose, it is most convenient to use special slats that stretch between the ceiling and the floor, and then a laser level can be attached to them. You can also make one yourself.

Make a marking with the help along the drawn line and install the guide profile with self-tapping screws if you are dealing with wooden wall or dowel nails - if we are talking about concrete. Self-tapping screws need to be fastened at a distance of 30-40 centimeters. Then we move on to installing the rack-mount profiles.

You don't need to use at all complex structure mounting the ceiling in a small one. If the width of the room is about 2.5 meters, then a metal frame, which is quite rigid, will be sufficient. The assembly principle of the metal frame is very simple. You simply attach the post profiles to the wall and fasten them together. It is necessary to fasten such profiles at a distance of 40 centimeters, using the drawn risks that are located on the side walls.

Then you will need metal scissors, with which you need to cut the rack profiles to the length of the room and insert them into the guides. The notches made earlier should be located in the center of the profile, then we fasten everything with self-tapping screws. To give the structure rigidity, you need to use special suspensions. Suspensions must be fixed with dowels-nails every 60-80 centimeters to the ceiling, and then improve the strength with self-tapping screws.

If the room is very wide, then the structure is easiest to fix along a stretched thread, since all the profiles must lie on the same plane and there must be depressions and bumps on the ceiling. If you do not use suspensions, then the frame will not be securely fixed and after painting all joints will begin to crack. Before proceeding with the installation of sheets, you need to pay attention to the lighting.

If you want to install a plafond or, then you need to mount mortgages, since the sheets are not able to support the weight of the lamp. It is necessary to attach several hundred-piece profiles to the frame for the future place of the chandelier. You can also use Spotlights, holes for which can be made in the form of a crown. Do not forget also about all the necessary wires and devices that need to be mounted under.

Installation of gypsum board sheets on the frame

If you have successfully mounted the frame, then you can start installing the gypsum board. To do this, you will need a regular stationery knife and a felt-tip pen.

We make markings on a drywall sheet, to which we apply an even object and draw along with a knife.
Then we fix it to the ceiling with self-tapping screws.
The next stage involves gluing the joints with a mesh to avoid the appearance of joints.
To achieve the best effect, you need to chamfer the drywall at an angle of 45 degrees immediately before applying and cover it with a flugenfüler.

Then, with the same substance with a flugenfüler, you need to cover the caps of the self-tapping screws.
We proceed to filling the ceiling and cleaning with fine emery paper.
If you have achieved a perfectly flat ceiling without roughness, then everything is ready for painting.
Prime the entire surface prematurely as otherwise the paint will dry instantly, and you will not apply it evenly.

If you are assembling the ceiling in big room, then the previously considered method will not work and the design needs to be somewhat complicated. We need to go back to the place when we just installed the guide profiles. We mount the rack units along the premises. It is necessary to draw marks on the guide profiles at a distance of 60 centimeters, along which we fasten the racks. If the length of the profile is not enough, then we use butt joints.

Next, we need to fix the frame with suspensions at a distance of 40 centimeters. We fix them to the ceiling, and then to the profiles. Before fixing the frame, you need to set the thread along the profiles, which you need to orientate to and adjust the height of the attachment. The entire structure must be in the same plane.

The last stage in the installation of the frame is the installation of jumpers on it.

We need to make marks on the post profile at a distance of 60 centimeters.
According to the marks, you need to install cross-shaped connectors, which are also called crabs, with which you need to fix the jumpers well.
Next, we prepare the jumpers themselves from the rack-mount profile. At this stage of work, we need identical pieces of 60 centimeters in size, which need to be screwed to the crabs.
Next, we need to cut the plasterboard sheets and install them on the frame. It is imperative to install plasterboard sheets in a checkerboard pattern.
The first row can be started with a solid sheet, and the subsequent rows can be laid out in the same order. This way of working hides the differences.
After installing the frame, remember to route the wiring for the lights and electrical appliances.
It is necessary, as before, to glue the joints with a serpyanka grid and cover the joints of the sheets and screws with a fügenfüler.
Putting everything together, sanding and priming.

That's it, your ceiling is completely ready to paint.

DIY plasterboard ceiling

Today in the home improvement store there are very a large number of materials for ceilings. It all depends on how much money you can spend on all of this. However, some options require a specialist who knows how to deal with them.

Especially it concerns tensile structures... Drywall is universal material, which is easy to use. It is environmentally clean material which can be cut very easily with an ordinary construction knife. To install it, you do not need professional skills, except for care, accuracy and correct marking. It is very good if there is also a desire to make your ceiling unique.

First, you need to decide on the design of your structure, since it can be flat ( flat ceiling) or multilevel ( difficult option ceiling with structure). With modern ideas, you can create a simple unique view ceiling. If you have not yet decided what kind of ceiling you like best, then transfer your idea to paper. Consider all the dimensions and features of your room. Do not forget about the thickness of the drywall sheet, since the cross section of this material is 0.8 centimeters.

A distinctive feature of drywall structures is lighting, or in other words, the ability to install it.

Today, ceilings with big amount small bulbs that are somewhat similar to the starry sky. The design is hollow, so it is possible to place all the necessary wires and wiring in it. The free ends must be released on lamps that are outside the ceiling in order to conveniently connect the control. If speak about technical installation devices, then this is not at all problematic if you use the appropriate fittings and fasteners. Switches and voltage regulators can also be fitted to create truly unique combinations.

The most time-consuming process of installing the ceiling can be considered the installation itself. drywall sheets.

The work must be done in stages: first, we install the sheets, the plane of the main ceiling and the rest of the levels.

To prevent mistakes, consider these tips:

do not fasten transverse structures, as this will allow you to better join drywall sheets, making a minimum of changes;
drywall is a fragile material, so before loosening it, attach at least two screws on each side to the profile. Ask another person for help as fitting sheets is an activity for more than one employee.

The screws should be sunk to a depth of 2 to 3 millimeters. If they are deeper, then you will not be able to putty everything in one pass. If the screws come out above the surface, they will be visible.
When it comes to marking, you need to keep in mind that the sheets need to be cut into as few pieces as possible. Thus, you significantly save material and avoid additional joints.
Each corner of the joint must be processed with a rasp, since the construction knife is not very accurate in this matter.

If you have installed drywall sheets, then you need to start trimming the curb. In this matter, subtlety and accuracy play a decisive role. First sew the side part, and then proceed to the bottom.

Putty is finishing touch complex work that gives the ceiling the desired shape.

To putty the seams, you need to buy a special or paper tape. You need to apply a thin ball to the joint, and put a mesh or paper tape on top. We rub everything with a spatula and apply a second layer. The first layer should dry out by that time. We process everything with fine sandpaper. You can paint your plasterboard ceiling, wallpaper or whatever.

Sometimes there is a situation when you need to align or decorate a low ceiling. If you want to create a tiered suspended ceiling using modern ideas, but your ceiling height is not very high, then use the following tips. The D113 is a false ceiling system that is perfect for low ceilings. Such a ceiling is carried out using a metal frame and is assembled from elements that differ in unified standard sizes and are designed for very quick installation. In general, this system can be used in any room, but it is not recommended to use it in rooms with increased steam generation and high temperatures.

In such cases, use moisture-proof GKL materials, which are characterized by increased fire resistance.

Suspended ceiling system D113 on a single-level metal frame

it modern system installation of ceilings, which assumes a quick finish and allows for good strength. With the help of such a system, you can completely eliminate irregularities, hide communications, and also improve acoustics. At the same time, you maintain good fire safety.

The D113 system comes standard with a rail, ceiling, straight hangers and crab connectors. The installation of such a frame must be started with a horizontal level, which is attached around the perimeter. Along the perimeter line, you need to attach the guide profile using dowels or self-tapping screws at a distance of 0.8 meters. Next, we fix the guide profile and glue it on outside polyurethane foam film. Instead of hangers, wire rods can be used that match the hangers.

We fix a single-level frame

If you use a single-level frame, then the main profiles must be attached to the hangers to the bearing surface. Between the axes of the profiles, a distance of no more than 1.2 meters must be maintained with an attachment step of no more than 0.9 meters. The profile must be fixed perpendicularly with a step of 0.35 meters. Crab cross connectors are used for this job. When installing the supporting profile, it is necessary to maintain a distance from the wall of up to 0.1 meters. Then, after 0.32 meters, you need to attach the next profile.

This is the way to fix the frame:

The ends of the bearing profiles that enter the guide profile must not be butt-adjacent.
Between bearing end and the guide profile must maintain a distance of 10 millimeters. Then drywall sheets need to be placed on the frame.
You need to follow the rule of displacement of joints with adjacent sheets, and the distance between the fasteners should be 0.15 - 0.2 meters.
Sheets should not be adjacent to walls.
After installing the sheets, you need to glue the joints with reinforcing tape.

The D113 system allows you to qualitatively mount the ceiling on metal carcass and also cheap to decorate ceiling surfaces. In this case, you completely exclude the use of wet technologies and you can make any dream come true.

There is another excellent technology for decorating ceilings, which is referred to among professionals as D112. It allows you to create a suspended ceiling on a two-level metal frame. Thanks to this system, you get the opportunity to lower the ceiling to any height and organize any communications in space. The sturdy metal frame ensures that the fixings to the supporting structure are flat and secure. You can fully use all possible ideas, as well as adhere to the basics of fire resistance, noise and sound insulation at the proper level.

System of two-level ceilings D112 on a metal frame

The set of elements that are used for this system includes the use of rails, metal spokes, clamping hangers, two-level connectors and ceiling profiles. These elements require a certain dimension of assembly and sequence.

First, you need to attach a wall profile at a marked level around the perimeter of the room using self-tapping screws.
The outer surface, which is adjacent to the wall, must be glued with foam or polyurethane foam tape.
This advice should not be neglected, as the ceiling may resonate somewhat due to the noise in the room.
The distance between the fasteners should be about 0.8 meters. However, there must be at least 3 attachment points on one segment.

After you mark the guide profiles, you need to attach the tie rods to the load-bearing ceiling with dowels. The distance between the fastening of the lines should be no more than 0.9 meters, and between adjacent lines - 1 meter. The attachment points of the parallel spokes should always be adjacent and staggered. The step needs to be adjusted downward. Clips need to be fastened to the knitting needles. The design of the hangers facilitates the fastening of embedded ceiling profiles, which are the main level for snapping in.

Ceiling mount

Next, using two-level connectors, you need to attach the ceiling profiles, which form the supporting layer for the drywall.

Thanks to the design of the two-level connectors, you can attach the load-bearing ceiling profiles using special clips.

The placement of ceiling profiles should be at a distance of no more than 0.5 meters (transverse fastening), and 0.4 - for longitudinal ones.
There must be a distance of no more than 0.1 meters between the wall and the extreme bearing profile.

The D112 system allows you to create a ceiling on a metal frame, while you can adjust the length of the suspension rod, set the horizontal level along the entire length of the bearing profile. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the ceiling profile with self-tapping screws. You need to observe the alternation of the joint of the sheets, as with other types of installation.

Wood-framed gypsum plasterboard ceiling

You can decorate and level the ceiling with drywall in rooms with normal humidity. For such work, the D111 system is quite suitable, which involves the use of a wooden frame. The frame is made of wooden beams and slats. Depending on the height of the room, the frame can include load-bearing bars and foundations.

The bars need to be shot to the supporting surface keeping a distance that will provide rigidity to the entire system. Experts recommend installing a shaft between the bindings no more than 0.8 meters. In the perpendicular direction, load-bearing beams must be attached to them, which are the basis for the installation of gypsum plasterboards. If the ceiling area is small, then it will be enough to use single-base frames, when the bars are aimed at the ceiling and at the same time serve as a load-bearing surface for drywall. In this case, it is necessary to significantly reduce the distance between the fasteners to 0.6-0.3 meters.

Installation of wooden beams

The fixing of the bars should be carried out using expansion polymer dowels. You need to attach the timber using self-tapping screws to the dowels with a pitch of 0.8 meters. If the cladding is two-layer, then the step must be reduced, since the weight of the square is doubled. The attachment points of adjacent beams must not be aligned. It is necessary to observe the chessboard rule. For double sheets, a fireproof suspended ceiling must be installed.

The distance for fixing the drywall sheet should be between 0.15 and 0.2 meters if the filing is single-layer. The distance between the self-tapping screws of the first layer can be left at 0.5 meters. When installing the second binder, you must observe a step from 0.15 to 0.2 meters. The length of the screws for mounting the first sheet should be about 25 millimeters, as well as 35 millimeters for the second. These dimensions are ideal for attaching plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 millimeters. If the thickness is different, then choose the appropriate one.

Fastening wooden beams to the ceiling

The bars can be fixed to the ceiling using metal hangers. Direct hangers allow a greater distance between the frame and the surface of the main ceiling.

Then you need to fasten the brackets to the timber with self-tapping screws at four points. The brackets must be aimed at the ceiling and folded out at right angles. If you want to increase the distance between the false ceiling and the main ceiling, then the D111 system is ideal for you. For this work, wire hangers are used here, which are attached to the main ceiling using such a part as a self-tapping dowel. Wooden frame is held on the hangers thanks to special clips that are very quick to install and allow you to adjust the height of the suspension.

In order to implement all design ideas, arrange beautiful lighting of the room and insulate, you need to use drywall. Plasterboard sheets are one of the most commonly used materials for finishing ceilings. But do not forget that drywall carries only a finishing function and cannot serve as a supporting structure in any way. When working with drywall, there is a lot of construction waste. And this is one of its advantages.

To install drywall, the first step is to make a supporting structure, and the drywall must be fixed on it. Basic structure consists of profiles, is attached to the bearing surfaces. Drywall is fixed with screws.

If funds allow you, then you can not think for a long time, but immediately choose ready-made ceiling modules for suspended ceilings... But this, we say right away, is a very expensive pleasure. It is better to buy a special ceiling plasterboard with a thickness of 0.8 cm. It is a lightweight material, inexpensive, non-toxic, natural and environmentally friendly, very easy to work with, easy to cut and leaves behind a lot of dirt and dust. The only thing you need is a construction knife for cutting, and carefulness when marking and cutting. The main thing is to make the correct markup and calculate everything correctly so as not to spoil the material. Plasterboard sheets are attached to a special galvanized metal frame with screws, and the metal frame, in turn, is attached to the ceiling. The frame is usually sold in hardware stores along with drywall.

How to mark the ceiling correctly

The main mistake of a novice master is counting the false ceiling from the existing stationary ceiling. Agree, in a building of the last century it is difficult to find an ideal flat wall, so this calculation is fundamentally wrong.

It will be necessary to draw the boundaries of the ceiling along the walls, that is, the depth to which it will sink lower than the standard ceiling. To do this, use the level, applying it to the wall at the desired height. The indicator of the correctness of the layout is when the lines coincide at the start and end points.
How to calculate and plan.

First, it is necessary, as always, to make all the necessary sketches with dimensions on paper. Plasterboard is a material that makes it easy to mount two and multi-level ceilings. Levels are steps that will be located on the ceiling. In general, it is undesirable to pile up a whole system of levels on the ceiling. It is enough to make one step along the perimeter. The step in the corners can have fillets, which are also easy to make on drywall. It will look very nice. All this splendor, after you have created it in your head, transfer it to paper with all the necessary sizes applied. Remember to always consider sheet thickness when dimensioning and cutting.

How to mount the structure

To mount the vertical step, we place the vertical frame racks at the required distance from the wall, and at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In order to mount radius fillets, there is a special profile with horizontal notches, which is bent along the notches with the desired radius. Received bent profile when fastening, you need to fix it as firmly as possible. If you need to add additional props, add. In order not to make a mistake in the rounding radii, and to make all the corners the same, each subsequent bent profile must be compared with the first and adjusted according to the first.

Laying of electrical wiring

The luminaires built into the ceiling are mounted on special fittings and a special electrical wiring is done. The most chic of the craft is to make each light bulb turn on separately, or a group - at the same time, and two or three - as needed. To build this, we provide a couple additional switches, which need to be picked up so that one turns on a group of bulbs, the second and the third - one, two or more, whoever wishes. If you have ten eyes - a halogen, then scatter the work of the bulbs on two switches, which will turn them on through one.

To do this, take out old switch and expand the socket for a triple switch of the European standard. Before that, you will need to groove a groove for the cable, which will go down the wall from the ceiling to the switch. After all this, we lay the cable and install the switch. We release the free ends of the wires intended for light bulbs over the ceiling. After the lights are connected, the wires remain inside the ceiling.

How to install drywall sheets

After the frame is installed, secured and checked again, after the wiring has been carried out and the bulbs are connected, we proceed to covering the frame with plasterboard sheets. If you have a multi-level ceiling, then the coating must be started from the layer closest to the ceiling. In order to lay and secure the sheets correctly, it is necessary to take into account several points:

It is better not to cover the transverse profiles at first, so that in the future you can move them where necessary.
Before releasing the sheet, grab it with two screws on both sides.
Avoid cutting the material frequently, which will result in fewer mistakes, less waste and more accurate seams.
When securing a sheet with a screw, using the term false ceiling you need to drown its head literally 2-3mm into the sheet. No more, no less. If the head protrudes, it will be visible. And if it is sunk too deep, then, probably, even after puttying, a hole or unevenness may remain.
Pay due attention to the processing of the seam corners. Do not be stingy, buy a special rasp for this, since simple processing with a knife will not give the desired results and then it will be difficult to hide the unevenness.

Only when the sheets are installed on the main planes can the sheets be installed on the curb.

How to make fillets

Some people, first-class specialists in apartment decoration, believe that in order not to break drywall and not violate its integrity, it is necessary to wet it with water and put it on a special bent template so that the sheet dries and takes the desired shape. But we will not act so elegantly, but easier. In the place where the sheets of drywall are joined, we draw vertical lines, about one centimeter apart. Then we cut the cardboard along the lines, and then we break the cardboard along the slots. Now, after the drywall sheet has completely broken, you can make rounds of any shape and radius, while carefully installing them on the frame and securing them. In order for the rounded structure to be stronger, it can be greased gypsum solution, and then all surfaces of the drywall are putty.

Plasterboard ceiling plaster

After the ceiling is mounted and installed, you can proceed to the most enjoyable part - filling the ceiling. During this process, defects, joints and irregularities disappear right before your eyes, and the ceiling takes on its finished look.

First, before applying a layer of putty, you need to close up the seams and joints. For this there is special paper... The procedure is done as follows: a layer of putty is applied to the joint, a special layer is glued on top of it. paper tape, then you need to press hard enough with a spatula. After pressing, a second layer of putty is applied and left to dry completely. After the putty is dry, it is necessary to clean everything with sanding paper.

Install and connect bulbs

To drill holes in drywall for light bulbs, we will need a special drill - a glass. The holes must be made exactly as shown in the drawing. If holes are needed rectangular, then you need a special drywall hacksaw. After the holes are made, we take out the previously prepared wires inside the ceiling. There are luminaires of a certain shape that are suspended from the ceiling. This requires special dowels for attaching to drywall.

How to make a drywall arch

There is an easy way to transform your home, which can give the house chic, beauty, comfort and modern look... These are drywall arches. These designs are good because you can create any design, any shape, improvise and give room for imagination. Due to the fact that the arch is quite easy to make, and it looks amazing, this method has become very popular among both professionals and home craftsmen. But, despite the ease of installation and work performed, there should still be little experience in working with drywall, as well as some necessary tools... If for the manufacture of ceiling fillets it was possible to cut and break sheets of drywall, then this method is inappropriate for making an arch. Plasterboard sheets must be moistened with water until the gypsum becomes soft and, together with the soaked cardboard, begins to bend. The soft, soaked sheet is laid, it is given a new desired shape with the help of fixtures, and the whole structure remains at rest until completely dry. In order to make a device, frames are used that can be made of anything: chipboard, fiberboard, plywood, plastic, wood, sometimes even drywall - all materials are good, and you should not make the frame yourself - it is better to entrust this matter to the master. The master will be able to correctly calculate that the size of the frame should be either smaller or larger than the drywall sheet placed on it.

Now let's take a closer look at the process of making a drywall arch. So, you determine which side of the arch will be concave. Then it is necessary to walk well along this side with a needle roller, that is, this side is perforated for further high-quality blotting. You can replace the roller with an awl, then the holes are made about a centimeter from each other, half a centimeter deep. Then the arch is moistened with water from the side of the plaster until the plaster becomes plastic. Then the arched sheet must be carefully transferred to a previously prepared template and fixed. If the arch is of the usual round shape, then plastic springy materials, for example, dense linoleum, a sheet of plywood, plastic, tin, etc. are better suited as a template. The transferred arch must be fixed with tape or strong tapes. If your template is not made of a plastic material, then use a flexible arch transfer backing, which, together with the arch, will be installed on the template. It can be dense polyethylene, linoleum, thin plastic. The arch must dry for at least a day, then the substrates and templates can be used to make the same arches, if necessary.

We mount the plasterboard profile on the ceiling

So, let's take a closer look at the manufacture of a frame in order to fasten drywall to the ceiling, whether it is an ordinary ceiling, or a multi-level one. In any case, you need a frame. It is made of 60x27 and 27x28 metal profiles. For the same purposes, a tree can also be successful. The dimensions of the bar are 30x50. In addition, frames can be made from straight or anchor suspensions, using special profile connectors, that is, crabs, as well as using special profile extensions. If in the room you just need to make ordinary repairs without frills, then it is advisable to level the ceiling using a single-level frame and drywall sheets. But if a multi-level ceiling is planned in the room, then it is imperative to draw up a design that will include detailed plan design, sketches with dimensions, installation of electrical wiring, placement of spotlights, which are usually used in multilevel ceilings... Instead of luminaires, special luminous cords or optical fiber light guides can be used.

Ceiling markings

It is better to take a liquid level, along which we mark a line along the walls along which the fixed metal profile 28x27 will pass. Direct suspensions are attached to the ceiling. They are necessary in order to maintain the height of the room. A 60x27 profile will be mounted on them. Direct suspensions allow you to lower the ceiling sheet from five to fourteen centimeters. If it is necessary to lower the ceiling by one meter in a high room, then special anchor suspensions are used, which are attached to the standard ceiling with special dowels.

Next, mark the center of the room. This will be the axis. Lines are drawn to the sides of the axis, at a distance of 1200mm in all directions. Along these lines, a 60x27 metal profile will be attached, on which you first need to stick a soundproof tape.
We fasten the profile with ceiling dowels with a step of 2pcs / 1p.m. Then, suspensions are mounted in the ceiling, which are mounted on anchor dowels, the distance between which should be 1000 mm.
Next, the 60x27 metal profile is connected to the 28x27 guide using screws (self-tapping screws TN 3.5x25)
Further, the frame is directly made, the profile of which is connected by special connectors, popularly referred to as "crabs".

At the most extreme sheet, you need to cut off the edge, so the very first row of the 60x27 metal profile in the frame must be built at a distance of 1170 mm so that the sheet with the cut edge fits exactly on the profile.

Now it's the turn of the posting electrical cables... This must be done before the frame is covered with sheets. Together with the installation of the wiring, it is necessary to carefully check the level of the evenness of the frame, if there are inconsistencies somewhere, adjust the rods, they are intended for this. After the evenness has been checked, we begin to lay the plates. We fasten them to the frame using self-tapping screws for metal. At the same time, remember about the displacement of the transverse butt joints exactly by the step of the bearing profile, this is 500mm. In places where the wall is in contact with the sheets of drywall, a special tape is glued - serpyanka, and after installation and installation of absolutely all sheets, the joints of the drywall should be putty with a special compound, popularly called "Fugenfüller". Especially carefully it is necessary to putty the places where the screws were attached. After drying, the putty is covered with sandpaper, and the ceiling is ready for painting, pasting, and for anything, according to the flight of imagination.

How to make drywall boxes

This design is used indoors when it is necessary to hide unwanted communications, which, as a rule, spoil the decorative effect. appearance... Sometimes boxes, on the contrary, are used as interior elements, but all the same, wires, cables are hidden in them, lighting is mounted. Boxes are also actively used as storage rooms. Plasterboard boxes are just as easy to make. It is convenient in that it allows you to mount at least horizontal, at least vertical, at least polygonal structures.

The box installation technique, like other types of drywall application, provides for the manufacture of a frame. We select profiles for the frame depending on the size of the box. If the box is large enough, for example ventilation duct or a box for masking pipes, it is necessary to use the so-called partition profiles in the frame for it, which serve as stiffeners. The main or partition frame must be fixed to the wall using special dowels. These dowels are also suitable for wooden walls, and for concrete, brick, plasterboard. Remember not to cover the pipes with a solid piece. necessarily in the box there must be either a small hatch or a door so that there is access to the pipes for inspection, repair or adjustment of the taps.

Making the markup

First, before proceeding with the installation of the frame, of course, you need to make a markup. Let's say we are making a box for masking pipes. To do this, mark the required dimensions on the walls, taking into account the protruding parts: valves, taps, pipe bends, and so on. Marking is also necessary on the floor. According to this marking, the main guides of the profile will be attached, along the perimeter. People who have experience in working with drywall can do without marking, setting the profile at once by level. But this is only appropriate in cases where the dimensions of the box are relatively small.

When the perimeter profile is installed, then jumpers are attached to it, which are designed to hold the corner sheets of drywall. For fastening all frame elements, we use metal screws 9.5 mm long. If you want to not hear the water passing through the pipes, then you need to do soundproofing work first.

We lay soundproofing

So, we install the side paneling of the box. Then, we lay soundproofing, in which it is usually used mineral wool, with which the maximum space between the pipe and the box is filled, is closed in front with cotton wool sheets and the final sewing is done.

Now the box is finally ready. You can putty it, before gluing the corner. Putty in those cases when you will use Decoration Materials for walls, paint or wallpaper. If you are planning a cladding ceramic tiles, then you do not need to glue the corners and putty.

You will need

Construction level, tape measure, drill, screwdriver, hacksaw for metal, knife, pencil.
Ceiling profile or timber, hangers, drywall or plastic panels, dowel-nails, self-tapping screws.

Instructions

Select materials for the future ceiling. The most common options are drywall and plastic panels. For mounting the box - ceiling profile in two sizes: 60 * 27mm and 27 * 28mm. Dry timber is also suitable.

Decide on the height of your new ceiling. How much do you want to lower it? Use a tape measure to measure the desired distance and mark on the wall with a pencil. Using building level and a pencil, draw a straight line along which you will attach the profile or timber to the wall.

Attach the guide profile (27 * 28mm) to the wall strictly along the line you drew. It will be better if you prepare it in advance by drilling holes for fixing it to the wall. Mark the drilling locations through the finished holes.

Take a drill or hammer drill (depending on your walls) with a drill of the correct diameter. The diameter should be suitable for the dowels you are using. Drill all the marked holes in the wall. Insert plastic dowels into the resulting holes and fix the profile on the wall. Do the same around the entire perimeter of the room in which you lower the ceiling. Don't forget to use the level. All of the above is also true when used.

Attach the hangers to the ceiling, they should be in one line. Use a punch and dowel nails again for this. In the case when the ceiling drops to a distance clearly greater than the length of the suspension, connect the two suspensions to each other.

Pull a string or fishing line across the room from wall to wall. At its level, you will attach the ceiling profile (60 * 27mm) to the suspensions. This is done with bedbugs (small screws). Also, with their help, connect the ends of the profile with the profile on the wall. You need to do all this together: one aligns, the other strengthens. In the case of a bar, we do exactly the same, only we attach to the bar on the wall using any strong corners. That's it, the box is ready.

It remains to mount drywall cut to size on it. Just screw it to the profile or timber with self-tapping screws. If you chose plastic panels, bedbugs will help you again. Fasten the first panel, insert the second into it, making sure that there are no gaps between them, screw it on. If the box is made of timber, you can fasten the panels using furniture stapler... It's faster and more convenient. This way you can lower the ceiling yourself.

Suspended ceiling

A suitable solution to the problem of high ceilings may be the installation of a suspended ceiling, which will be fixed with metal profiles and beams. To accomplish this task, horizontal lines must be drawn in place of the new ceiling. If you plan to install the ceiling using beams, then in the marked areas you need to cut out special slots into which the beams will be inserted.

With help wooden beams make a supporting structure. Secure the beams with wooden wedges inserted into the prepared slots. Nail the wedges with nails to prevent them from shifting during installation. Hang the ceiling to the resulting beam system, for which you can apply fiberboard plates or OSB.

These plates are fixed with nails, the caps of which must be treated with an anti-corrosion material. Plates are nailed smooth side down, after which they are colored. If there are seams, you need to mask them with a thin sheet.

Creating a visual effect

It is also possible to visually reduce the height of the ceiling. Using the features of light sources, you can reduce the volume of the room. When installing lamps, it is necessary to make indirect lighting, for which you can use a construction of boards, which can then be pasted over with wallpaper. Thanks to this design, diffused light will be created, which will divert the attention of guests from the high ceiling.

Fabric ceiling

For those wishing to create original interior the installation of a fabric ceiling is ideal. First you need to measure the room to buy the right amount polyester decorative fabric. The material for this purpose must be strong. Mark the walls according to the desired height of the new ceiling. Then, along the marked lines, baguette frames are mounted in the form of a special profile. Don't forget to prepare in advance fastening bar for the chandelier.

After installing the baguette frame, start fixing the fabric in it, starting from the center. Tuck the fabric in profile and move to one of the corners, but you need to fasten the fabric to the corner itself at the very end of the work, so do not rush. After the fabric is tacked on, gently pull the fabric so that the ceiling is flat. Then you need to tuck the canvas in the corners and make a hole for the chandelier.

If there are folds in the fabric that did not disappear during the stretching process, use construction hairdryer, heating the folds in a circular motion at a distance of 15 cm from the fabric. Such a ceiling is a good dust collector, so it must be periodically cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.

Oddly enough, some are looking for ways to make their ceiling not higher, but lower. This desire is especially characteristic for those who live in old houses with small rooms but very high ceilings. Being in such a room is not very comfortable, and in this case, a way is being looked for how to lower the ceiling level to comfortable values. In order to do this, you will need to resort to one of the options described below.

Optical illusion

The most economical and easiest way to make your ceilings look lower. To do this, you don't even need to significantly alter anything in the room. The only serious interference in the construction of the house can be the laying of electrical wiring, but even this can be avoided if you use special plastic cable channels.

It is enough just to arrange all light sources in such a way that they give diffused light at such a level that the top of the room is lost in the twilight. If at the same time, paint the floor surface in dark color, the effect will increase even more. In fact, the room will remain the same, but the ceiling will appear to be lower.

Beams

More expensive, but much more effective option will be the installation of transverse between the walls with subsequent sewing of interbeam spans or without it. You can position the beams at any suitable height and you do not need to install powerful fasteners for their installation if you use a non-real one. wooden beam, but its imitation.

Such a solution will simultaneously solve the problem with the floor height and will allow you to create a completely new interior... In addition, with wired inter-girder spans, it will be possible to mount additional lighting in the form of built-in lamps, as well as place sound-insulating or heat-insulating materials above the new ceiling plane.

Tension cloth

One of the economical and quick ways solving the problem. You don't need to do anything but choose suitable canvas- from or. The coating plane can be positioned at any height that is comfortable for you and all work will be performed by specially trained installers.

The advantage this method there will be a speed of installation, as well as the opportunity to get a perfectly flat coverage for little money. At the same time, all the advantages of standard suspension and tension structures are also present. When deciding how to lower the ceiling height, you need to consider this option most closely, since it combines the greatest number of advantages compared to others.

Drywall

Despite the fact that this material is very popular, it should be used only in cases where there are no other options for solving the problem or the height to which the ceiling level is supposed to be lowered does not differ too much from the height of the base floor. Since the entire composition must hang on suspensions, with their large length, an unstable base may be obtained and cracks may appear on the coating after finishing.

Therefore, most craftsmen working with this material do not recommend using the design in this situation. Better to look for another option hanging coatings that will meet all the requirements.

Panels

A variety of coverings consisting of panels can be the most budget decision, not counting optical illusion. The panels themselves are very inexpensive, and the frame for them can be assembled from ordinary wooden block... If its strength is in doubt, you can use the profiles used to assemble structures from gypsum board. The coating will turn out to be even and at the desired height.

In addition, all the advantages of such compositions described above will also remain in place - the ceiling space can be used for any suitable purpose. At the same time, the cost of the ceiling will be low, and the surface can be chosen for every taste - from imitation wooden structure, to the most modern coatings made of metal.

Make installation single-level ceiling from drywall is within the power of everyone who knows how to handle construction tool and has some skills renovation works... As a result, you will save a significant amount on the services of a master, as well as gain experience that may be useful in the future. In this article we will tell you how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands.

Preparation for work and marking

To work with drywall, we need special tools. WITH complete list you can familiarize yourself.

So, at the first stage, be sure to draw up a project, think over how the wiring will be laid, where the lamps will be located. Draw a sketch on paper with all the required dimensions - you will need it in the store when buying material.

The height to which the new ceiling should be lowered depends on the degree of curvature of the base base. If you plan to install spotlights, the indent should be at least 10 cm. In any case, it is not recommended to indent less than 3cm.

By using laser level or a painted cord, mark a horizontal line on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, along which we will attach the guide profile.

Pay due attention to the marking - the evenness of the future structure depends on it.

An indicator of the correctness of the layout will be the perfect coincidence of the horizontal line at the start and end points.

Installation of a metal frame

To assemble the frame, we use a standard 3-meter long profile (guide - with a section of 27 by 28 mm and a rack-mount - with a section of 60 by 27 mm). If necessary, we increase the length of the profile using a butt connector and self-tapping screws.

Fastening the guide ceiling profile we carry out to the wall on plastic dowels with a step of no more than 50 cm. Then we install the suspensions along the line of the main profile at a distance of 40-100 cm, depending on the load on the frame (see the table of distances). Direct suspensions allow lowering the frame from the base overlap within 5-14cm. When it is necessary to lower the plasterboard ceiling to a greater distance, we use anchor suspensions with a clamp and a pull.

Next, we will install the main and transverse (bearing) profiles, connecting them with a single-level connector (crab) and self-tapping screws. The frame diagram for a single-level false ceiling is shown in the figure below.

profile connection diagram (version with direct suspension)

profile connection diagram (version with anchor suspension)

Installation of plasterboard on the ceiling

Most often, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm or 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m and a length of 2.5 m are used for the device of suspended ceilings made of plasterboard. They are recommended to be fixed strictly horizontally in a checkerboard pattern. This method will prevent the appearance of cracks where the joint of four sheets passes.

For mounting drywall on the ceiling, it is supposed to use only self-tapping screws for metal. The hat does not need to be pressed deeply. It should be flush with the surface of the drywall or slightly sink into it by 1mm. A head recessed too deeply, even after puttying, can leave a hole or unevenness. We tighten the screws with a step of 10-15 cm to a depth of at least 1 cm.

how to screw in self-tapping screws

Do not forget to leave an indent from the wall 3 - 4 mm to give the drywall the ability to "breathe" when the temperature fluctuates.

After trimming the drywall to size, it is advisable to process the corner with a file or a special edge plane, making a slight slope. If you do not do this, but press the sheets tightly to each other, then after the putty the ceiling may crack.

try to cut drywall as rarely as possible - this will reduce waste and provide more accurate joints;
release the sheet only after it is caught by two screws on both sides;
avoid sharp changes room temperature.

Sealing of seams

Congratulations, you are in the home stretch. It remains to carefully glue the joints with a serpentine and cover with putty. The reinforcement process is as follows:

apply a layer of putty to the joint and level it;
apply a reinforcing tape and press it with a spatula;
close the tape with a finishing layer of putty and level the seam.

In a similar way, we will process the gaps between the wall and sheets of drywall, not forgetting to putty each screw.

this is what it looks like mounted and prepared for fine finishing plasterboard ceiling