Finishing and insulating facades is an indispensable process that guarantees a warm and inviting home. For this, different methods are used, but the most relevant and interesting choice is the one in which a wet facade is created, the installation technology of which will be considered in detail. During its formation, special mortars and heat-insulating materials are used. If you understand well how such a facade is created, then the process is easily done by hand.

What is a wet facade system

The most popular materials used for the construction of various structures are brick, concrete or wall blocks. From them, structures are obtained that have good strength, but do not have excellent thermal insulation parameters, therefore, insulation is an indispensable process. For this, the wet facade technology is an excellent solution.

The work performed provides not only high-quality insulation, but also the decoration of private houses. All work is carried out exclusively using specialized building solutions. At the end of the process, the walls are plastered to ensure their attractive appearance.

A distinctive feature of the design is its multi-layer design, with each layer performing an essential function.

The composition of the wet facade includes the following layers:

Construction layer	The functions it performs
Glue	Provides reliable fastening of the entire structure
Insulating	Ensures high-quality insulation of the walls of the building
Reinforcing	Responsible for the high strength and reliability of the wet facade, and also creates the basis for easy and quick creation of the next layer
Decorative	It acts as a plaster coating that protects thermal insulation materials from external influences and provides beautiful view buildings

When using this technology, it does not decrease effective area premises, since all work is carried out outside.

Advantages and disadvantages

The design has positive and negative parameters, which are carefully studied before direct work. The pluses include:

• acceptable cost;
• small mass, allowing you to create a structure for houses built on light foundations;
• the useful area of ​​living quarters does not decrease;
• thanks to the creation of a wet facade, the installation technology of which is clear and simple, not only the thermal insulation parameters of the building increase, but also the sound insulation is improved;
• its service life exceeds 35 years;
• the appearance of structures is improved;
• simple repairs can be easily carried out if necessary.

However, a wet facade has not only advantages, but also the following disadvantages:

• work can be performed only when optimal conditions are established on the street, since it is almost impossible to achieve the desired result at temperatures below 5 degrees, but the solution to this problem will be the use of suitable heating equipment;
• it is important that all layers dry evenly and gradually, therefore precipitation or a sharp change in humidity can lead to poor-quality insulation;
• so that during the hardening of the structure, dirt does not fall on it, constant protection from the wind is provided, which entails additional waste of time and effort.

This technology ensures the formation of high-quality thermal insulation with minimal investment. Photos of the structure are presented on the Internet in large numbers, so you can be convinced of its attractiveness. All the disadvantages are easily removable, therefore this insulation option is chosen very often.

Wet insulation options

The choice of insulation for the structure

The main purpose of the wet facade is the insulation of buildings, therefore much attention is paid to the choice of high-quality insulation. It must meet the following criteria:

• small weight;
• environmental friendliness, since the work is carried out for a residential building;
• low rate of water absorption;
• good resistance to mechanical stress;
• even with a sharp change in temperature, the material should not change its structure;
• installation must be simple, and the cost is low.

Only a few insulating materials meet these requirements. These include:

• foam - it has a specific structure, which contains a huge amount of closed air bubbles. He has low cost and also easy to install. It has a small mass, therefore it does not affect the foundation and other parts of the structure. Resistant to mold or mildew. Its disadvantages include a poor indicator of air permeability. Also, it is not durable, so even minor mechanical stress can easily lead to its destruction. It is not advisable to use it for wooden buildings;
• expanded polystyrene - is a modern type of polystyrene. Preference in the process of creating a wet facade is very often given to expanded polystyrene. Its structure also contains numerous closed air bubbles, so it has good thermal insulation parameters and does not allow moisture to pass through. It is fire resistant and lightweight. The material is considered unsuitable for wooden houses, as it impairs their air permeability;
• mineral wool - created with the help of special fibers obtained by melting all kinds of rocks. The material is popular because it contains only natural and environmentally friendly components. Cotton wool is lightweight and affordable. The disadvantages include the lack of resistance to moisture, due to which mineral wool loses its thermal insulation parameters.

The most common choice for a wet facade is mineral wool. It comes in slabs that are easy to fix. To insulate a building with this material, you do not need to spend a lot of money.

Styrofoam
Expanded polystyrene
Mineral wool

Wet facade installation technology

It is quite simple to make a structure if you carefully understand the technology of work. The wet façade is formed in several large stages.

Tools and materials for work

Initially, materials and tools used in the process of work are acquired. All of them must be of high quality and reasonable price. These include:

• basement profile - it should be equal in width to the thickness of the selected insulation plate. Its amount is calculated depending on the size of the building itself. To connect the individual profile elements, use the corresponding connecting elements. Its fixation is performed with different dowels with nails, the length of which depends on what material the walls of the building are made of;
• primer - necessary for proper preparation walls of the building before creating a wet facade. A primer is also purchased, which is applied to a layer of plaster, which ensures its preparation before further decoration;
• mushroom-shaped dowels - used for reliable and final fastening of the insulation;
• glue - used in the process of creating a heat-insulating layer, and it must be specially designed for the selected insulation;
• insulation plates - their required thickness is calculated in advance, since the effectiveness of thermal insulation depends on it. Most often, mineral wool is chosen for a wet facade;
• plaster composition - it provides a protective and reinforced outer layer applied to thermal insulation;
• reinforcing mesh - The most commonly chosen fiberglass construction is sold in rolls. It is easy to use, and also provides a durable and resistant to various effects of the plaster layer;
• decorative plaster - it guarantees a beautiful and bright appearance of the building facade;
• facade paint - with its help the walls of the building are painted in any chosen color.

There are special complex systems, which includes all the necessary materials and tools used in the process of creating a wet facade. It is considered profitable to purchase such a kit, but quite often some components are unsuitable for home owners.

Wet Facade Tools

Preparing the facade before work

It will be possible to achieve a high result of work only if between the wall and insulating layer there will be a minimum distance. Therefore, attention is paid to high-quality preparation of the facade.

Initially, the surfaces are checked for any irregularities and other imperfections, which will certainly be eliminated with suitable mortars. Since glue is used during the work, it is important to clean the walls of dirt or dust.

Facade wall surface cleaning

Old coatings are certainly removed, and for this, mechanical methods or thermal methods can be used, which involve heating the base with a construction hairdryer or other equipment. The presence of moss or mold on the walls is not allowed, therefore, if they are found, they are certainly cleaned off, after which the base is treated with an antiseptic. The areas near each window of the building are especially checked, since it is there that there may be major flaws in the walls. Also, all elements of the drainage system or other objects that will interfere in the process of work are removed from the base. Next, a primer is applied to the base, for which a roller and brushes are used. It is important to avoid gaps, as this will negatively affect the fastening of the insulation.

Wall priming

Basement profile device

To fix it, a zero line is initially applied to the walls, which is beaten off exclusively with the help of a laser. It is important that it be perfectly flat, since it depends on it how high-quality, even and reliable the wet facade will be. The line that will have to be guided by when creating a heat-insulating layer should be 30 cm lower than the floor level in the building. This will ensure that there are no cold bridges in the structure.

Base profile

A plinth profile is required to perform the following functions:

• smooth fastening guaranteed thermal insulation material;
• protection of mineral wool from below from moisture and dirt is provided.

If there are slight irregularities on the surfaces, then in the process of fixing the profile, special plastic pads are used to compensate for the curvature of the base, and also allow the structure to be pressed tightly. Fastening is done end-to-end, and a small gap is left between the individual segments, not exceeding 3 mm. Special connecting elements are used in the corners.

Stages of installation of the basement profile

Installation of a heat-insulating layer

For a wet facade, mineral wool is considered an excellent choice. It comes in the form of slabs that are easy to fix. The whole process is divided into stages:

• to fix the insulation, glue is used, which is diluted with the required amount of water in accordance with the instructions supplied by the manufacturer. The solution is mixed with a construction mixer to obtain a homogeneous mixture of optimal consistency;
• the composition is applied to the insulation plates in two approaches, since initially a small amount of it is rubbed into the elements, and after that an even and rather thick layer is created;
• the slab, smeared with glue, is applied to the desired section of the wall, after which it is pressed firmly and tightly enough. It is recommended to move it slightly to distribute the adhesive evenly. When working near a window where the slope is located, it is important to ensure that the fixing is done carefully. If excess appears, then they are immediately removed with a spatula;
• when using the next element, it is important to ensure that all the plates are pressed against each other very tightly. The presence of significant gaps is not allowed;
• the material is fastened in successive rows, and work begins from a preselected angle. In this case, the seams are certainly displaced to prevent the occurrence of cold bridges.

The first row is laid in strict accordance with the pre-fixed starting profile. Mineral wool is cut with a special knife, and during operation it is important to constantly use measuring equipment to prevent possible deviations and distortions.

The prepared glue solution is applied to the insulation boards
The first row of insulation is neatly attached with glue to the basement profile
Additional fastening of insulation with dowels

Application of a plaster layer with reinforcement

A wet facade is created without fail with the formation of a special reinforced layer of plaster. The mixture is usually sold dry and must be diluted with water before use.

Work begins with each window in the building, since these areas are considered the most difficult. As a rule, special slope corners are used here. After the formation of the plaster layer optimal in terms of thickness, a reinforcing mesh is used, which is embedded in the mortar. It should not touch the mineral wool, but should be in the plaster mix. In the corners, a special corner is used, equipped with mesh stripes.

Reinforcing mesh

The mesh is overlapped to obtain a durable reinforcing layer. Surplus material is trimmed if necessary.

After the mortar has set, another layer of plaster is applied. The second layer is rubbed, after which you can cover it with a primer, and then paint the resulting structure with high-quality facade plaster or paint.

Reinforcing mesh is attached with an overlap
The mesh is pressed into the plaster layer

Common mistakes when creating a wet facade

It is not difficult to get the job done, but the quality of the result is often poor. This is due to the following mistakes:

• the base was not prepared or a poor-quality primer was used;
• the reinforcing mesh was laid end-to-end, and not overlapped;
• the thermal insulation layer does not fit tightly to the walls of the house;
• used plaster with a high rate of vapor permeability;
• improperly mounted drips.

What threatens the wrong installation of a wet facade

To avoid these mistakes, it is important to use quality materials and strictly follow the instructions. Thus, wet facades, the installation technology of which is described above, are considered an excellent solution for any structure. The design has many advantages, does not require a lot of investment and is easy to create with your own hands. High-quality insulation of the house is provided, as well as its appearance is improved.

Video

We suggest watching a video that will help you understand how to make such a facade correctly.

You can insulate the walls of your house both from the inside and outside. But a zealous owner will always give preference to systems with an external insulation. Code of Rules SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection" reads: "It is not recommended to use thermal insulation from the inside." In addition, at least three more arguments can be named in favor of such a decision:

The wet facade method involves the following stages of work:

1. Preparatory process.
2. Wall insulation with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene from the outside of the building.
3. Applying a layer of adhesive mixture to the surface of the insulation, followed by laying on it a reinforcing, alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh.
4. Plastering the surface.
5. Finishing layer of finishing material.

Outwardly, the "wet facade" in the photo looks like this:

Thermal insulation of the facade using the "wet facade" technology

You will learn about the technology of laying this method of insulation a little later, and in this section I would like to note its advantages and disadvantages.

The effective method of "wet facade" has established itself as one of the cheapest, included in the "TOP-3 Inexpensive facades", you can read about this in the article, therefore it is used everywhere. But in order for the listed advantages to only please you, you must follow the technology, choose high-quality material and comply with the necessary conditions when performing work.

Types of facades and their scope

"Wet facade" is a plaster finish that is used to insulate administrative buildings, residential buildings, office, commercial and industrial buildings. This type of facade is suitable for both low-rise and high-rise construction.

The outer walls of the building can be insulated in two ways. One of them is called "Dry facade", and the other is "Wet facade". When installing the first type of facing, there is no need to use various solutions and compositions that have liquid consistencies. This type of facade finishing includes all types of ventilated facades, which you can learn about in the article "". Due to the available space, the insulation is ventilated, the material is not moistened.

As for the second method, the "wet facade", or wet facade plaster, has nothing to do with humidification. The name implies that the heat insulator will be mounted on the wall, and then the surface will be plastered with special solutions.

In the process of work, plastering and adhesives are used, which are diluted with water, therefore the method is called "wet facade".

Classification of facade systems with external thin plaster layers according to GOST R 53786-2010 “Composite thermal insulation facade systems with external plaster layers. Terms and Definitions", presented in the table:

Wet Facade Technology

All technological phases are performed at a temperature not less than + 5 ° С and not higher than + 25 ° С according to SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulation and finishing coatings". The quality of the work performed and the service life depend on the accuracy of the conditions fulfilled.

By violating the temperature regime and using materials that are not intended for the "wet facade" system, you risk getting a cracked coating or crumbling plaster.

Do not forget about your safety, because the work will be done at a height. You will most likely use forests, according to SNiP 12-03-2001 "Safety in construction" Part 1 their installation is carried out in tiers, and the height of each tier should be at least 2 m. The step, depending on the height, can be a multiple of 0.5; 1 and 2 m. The scaffolding walls are exposed at a distance of 300–400 mm from the outer plane.

Preparatory work

It is necessary to start work by inspecting the surface and visually determining its strength and bearing capacity. If there are influxes from the solution on the wall, remove the excess with a hammer or other improvised tool, and seal the cracks with mortar.

According to the standards SNiPa 3.04.01-87 "Insulation and finishing coatings" the substrate must be firm, rough, clean and open-pored. Differences greater than 10 mm must be eliminated.

Suppose there is a small section of 200 x 200 mm on the wall, concave by a couple of centimeters, and if you close it with insulation, then a void forms in this place. An accidental blow to the finished facade in this place will break the insulation. Laying the slab on protruding places is also fraught with an internal material defect.

If, running your palm over the surface, you see a "chalk trail" on your hand or something like fine sand is falling from the wall - clean the wall more thoroughly. Sometimes you have to completely plaster the base.

We will clean the treated surface of dirt and prime it with a special compound called "Primer", this intermediate layer will improve the physical and technical characteristics of the base. We do this with a roller or a wide paint brush.

The foam primer should only be used on foam plastic and not on mineral wool boards.

If the surface strongly absorbs the composition, then apply the primer 2 times. This operation will increase the adhesion of the substrate and reduce the pulling off of water from the adhesive mixture.

Insulation installation

Using the "wet plaster" method, you need to understand that most of the load will fall on the insulation layer. We offer a drawing that clearly shows the design of this technology with the use of decorative plaster as a finishing layer.

"Wet facade"

Therefore, the choice and installation of insulating material to the wall surface is a crucial moment when installing a "wet facade".

The choice of the material used in the work depends on the following indicators:

The technology for the production of works on the construction of the "wet facade" allows the use of a synthetic polymer group of heaters, mineral heat-insulating materials and their combination. Materials must comply GOST: 10140-2003. “Thermal insulation boards made of mineral wool on a bitumen binder. Technical conditions", 16136-2003" Perlite-bitumen heat-insulating plates. Specifications ", 22950-95" Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity on a synthetic binder. Technical conditions ".

The thickness of the heat insulator is chosen depending on the existing standards of heat engineering of buildings and structures, which are prescribed in SNiPe 23-02-2003 " Thermal protection buildings ". It says here that to insulate facades for residential premises, you should use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 10–250 mm or a mineral wool plate of 25–180 mm.

Taking into work extruded polystyrene foam, which has a smooth surface, you should make it rough. To do this, you can buy a factory planer for aerated concrete, as in the photo, or make a homemade plane from a metal profile pierced with nails.

For work, purchase the tools necessary to complete the construction process:

• building level;
• hammer;
• perforator with dowel attachments (most often D8);
• electric drill;
• profile cutter;
• spatula: 80–100 mm and 350 mm;
• container for diluting the adhesive composition;
• construction mixer;
• notched trowel, tooth size 8–10 mm, made of stainless steel;
• smooth edge trowel;
• grater with sandpaper or mesh;
• long wooden scraper;
• wide brush, surface primer roller;
• construction knife for cutting the mesh;
• polyurethane float 300–400 mm for structure formation.

The approximate consumption of materials is shown in the table:

The fastening of the insulation starts from the basement of the building to its roof, within one vertical grip, and is performed in the following chronology:

1. Fixing the basement profile The bottom of the insulating layer is protected from mechanical damage by means of a basement profile, which is installed above the basement by 400–600 mm using a level. It also holds the lower (first) row of the insulator, and the profiled drip wicks away raindrops. Plinth profiles with their dimensions are suitable for various thicknesses of thermal insulation material, they correspond to GOST 22233-2001 "Extruded profiles from aluminum alloys for translucent enclosing structures. Technical conditions " and the slab must fit into them exactly - without gaps. In the wall we drill holes for dowels, at least 3 pcs per 1 m of the profile. We lean the profile against the wall, insert plastic dowels into the holes and drive into the wall with a hammer. Sometimes polyethylene backing washers are used for lining between the profile and the wall.
   

   The location of the basement profile in established form should be in one line, at the joints there are no overlaps or deformation of the part.

   When the profile continues along the adjacent base, then we cut it off at an angle of 45 °. In houses with basements and technical underground, polystyrene foam plates must overlap the end of the plate not less than 200 mm from the lower mark of the overlap of the first floor and basement.

   

2. Coating the surface of the insulation with an adhesive solution cement base, but only for outdoor use. The glue solution is prepared by hand using a construction electric mixer. How to do this is written on the package. Fill the container with water in the amount of 5–5.5 liters per 25 kg of the mixture and slowly pour the dry solution out of the bag, stir the contents thoroughly at low speed. You should get a homogeneous mass, leave it for 10 minutes, and then stir again. The adhesive composition must be mixed until a homogeneous mass without lumps and remember that it retains its properties only for 4 hours.

   Apply the adhesive mass to the boards in strips of 30–40 mm wide at a distance of about 30 mm from the edge, so that during installation it will not squeeze out beyond the edges of the material. In the central part of the slab, we apply about 6–8 slides, 30–40 mm thick. We select the amount of solution in such a way that more than half of the surface of the insulation has contact with the base through it. The strip of glue along the contour should have breaks; we make them with a spatula, thus eliminating the formation of air jams.

   

3. Gluing the insulation to the base After applying the glue, immediately apply the plate to the wall, the long side of which lies horizontally, fixing it with blows of a fist through a long wooden scraper, or with a mallet. At the same time, we control the vertical and horizontal position of the slab with a level. We immediately remove the glue squeezed out of the insulation contour.
   

   Do not press the heat insulator repeatedly or move it even after a few minutes. If it is not glued correctly, gently tear it off, remove the solution, only then reapply the mass to the plate and press it to the surface.

   We lay the slabs in a horizontal pattern, from bottom to top, keeping the staggered arrangement of the order of the seams, and overlap at the corners. At the corners we use a "gear" gearing.

   First, a slab is laid with a corresponding protrusion on one wall, and then another is applied to it. The strip that remains is cut off.

   Vertical and horizontal seams should not be more than 2 mm. If it turns out that they are much larger, you cannot completely fill them with solution. A narrow strip of insulation must be inserted into the gap and pressed into the seam, no longer using an adhesive composition. When the gap is small and it is impossible to insert heat-insulating material into it, experts recommend expanding it and inserting the insulation with effort, but without using an adhesive solution, but using polyurethane foam.

   It is better to use a toothed float for laying the glue on the insulation, this method guarantees a clean joint and ensures uniform adhesion of the insulation to the glued surface with the ability to level the sheet along the plane.

   Insulating the slopes from the outside, we use insulation with a thickness of at least 30 mm. We cut the expanded polystyrene plate 5 mm less than the width of the slope, or before gluing it from the insulation we cut a wedge (8-10 mm) and fill the gap between the insulator and the frame with silicone mastic.

   When insulating slopes, the slabs should protrude 10 mm beyond the slope, thus it is very convenient to join the main facade insulation.

   At the corners, the slabs are mounted with bandaging the seams. You should also pay attention to the adjoining of the heat insulator to the under-roof lining, because this place especially requires protection from mechanical stress and moisture getting under the slabs. For this, the edge of the insulating material is reinforced with another layer of reinforcing mesh, both for window and doorways, the insulating layer on top is protected with a cornice strip.

   

4. Leveling the surface of the insulation All irregularities of the glued insulation must be sanded off with a float with sandpaper. This is done only after the glue has hardened, 2 days after gluing the plates. Use a grater to make circular motions with slight pressure.

   

5. Fastening the insulation to the wall with dowels After 2 days, when the glue has already grabbed, we proceed to fasten the insulation to the base mechanically- special dowels with wide heads. We select a site and use a punch to drill holes in it with a Ø 10 mm drill, 15–20 mm in depth, longer than the length of the dowel. Otherwise, the debris falling into the hole will not allow the tip to be driven in. We calculate the length of the fungus according to the following scheme: thickness of the insulating material + 10 mm (thickness of other layers) + 40-50 mm into the wall. Suppose, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the length of the dowel will be 110 mm, i.e. 50 + 10 + 50. The length of the hole will be 130 mm: 110 + 20, which means the length of the drill is a little more than 130 mm. Place the holes on the sheets: at the joints and in the center. In total, 5 fungi will go to the sheet. You can do more, if necessary. Regardless of the location of the dowels on the plates within the same plane of the site, the sheets are nailed 50-100 mm from their edge. Now we drive spacer tips into the dowels, if it is difficult to hammer them to the end, we pull out the dowel, deepen the hole and re-hammer the tip.

   It is worth remembering that for work, you should buy a dowel with a thermal head. Otherwise, over time, the facade may appear rust stains... The dowel rod itself is metal, its spacer zone is located in brickwork or concrete, therefore, the metal rod is a cold bridge and can rust over time, and the thermal head will protect the facade from such a problem.

   

A properly reinforced dowel is considered when its head is in the same plane with the heat-insulating material.

If it is necessary to lay two layers of a heat insulator, then we perform the first layers in the same way as described above, and the second one is glued to the first, but in such a way that the joints overlap. After grouting the surface, you can drive in the dowels, just choose the right length of the product so that it is enough for the thickness of the insulation and the base.

In the case when the thickness of the insulation is two layers greater than the existing length of the fastener, it is recommended to use mounting adhesive for expanded polystyrene for fastening. If you use ordinary polyurethane foam, you may not achieve a flat surface, because Expansion of foam is much more expansion of polystyrene foam assembly adhesive.

Insulation plastering

Before plastering expanded polystyrene or other insulation, it is necessary to perform a number of operations, which can be conditionally divided into 3 stages:

• Surface reinforcement
• Plastering works
• Finishing

Surface reinforcement

The technology of "wet facade" after the installation of the insulation obliges the next stage to reinforce the surface. This function is performed by a fiberglass mesh, finished with a polymer composition to protect the material from alkaline corrosion. According to GOST R 537862010 "Composite thermal insulation facade systems with external plaster layers" reinforcement occurs by "sinking" it into the base composition during its application.

Fiberglass mesh is a material industrial production, in which the threads are fastened in perpendicular directions and form cells. All products must comply GOST R 55225-2012 “Fiberglass mesh for facade reinforcing alkali-resistant. Technical conditions ".

A fiberglass mesh with a density of 160 to 220 g / m 2 is suitable for work. The specified minimum is spelled out in the technical regulations of well-known manufacturers of facade insulation systems: Knauf in "System external thermal insulation KNAUF-WARM WALL ", Ceresit WM thermal insulation systems. By purchasing a material with a low density, the developer reduces the reliability and strength of his facade in relation to the tensile forces in the plaster layer.

The mesh will also serve as a reliable base for the next layer of plaster. If you glue a material that does not meet these requirements, then the alkaline solution will dissolve the mesh within several years.

Such material will reliably protect the facade from cracks caused by temperature differences.

The grid should be marked "for external, facade work". According to GOST R 55225-2012 “Fiberglass mesh for facade reinforcing alkali-resistant. Technical conditions ", product labeling must be on each roll. By type, depending on the purpose, facade fiberglass meshes are:

• privates - P;
• reinforced - U;
• architectural - A.

The marking of the mesh for the facade (FS) includes: abbreviated designation of the product, its type, nominal mass and width, breaking strength in tension along the warp and weft, designation of the normative standard.

An example is this marking: FSR-160 (110) -2000/2000 GOST R, where

• FS - facade mesh;
• R - private;
• 160 - weight in grams;
• 110 - length in cm

• 2000/2000 - warp and weft breaking forces equal to 2000 N;
• GOST R is the standard.

To fix the mesh, a layer of glue-plaster mixture is required, into which a fiberglass mesh is embedded, which serves as the basis for high-quality plaster. It must match GOST R 54359-2011 "Adhesive compositions, basic plaster, leveling, putty on a cement binder for facade thermal insulation composite systems with external plaster layers"... It is better to start this stage after 72 hours from the moment the heat insulator is glued to the wall. Remember that this must be done not in rainy weather and the air temperature is not lower than + 5 ° С and not higher than + 25 ° С. Do not leave the insulation material uncovered for more than 2 weeks. If it still happens, then before performing the reinforcement, check the quality of the material: clean yellowed plates with a dusty surface with a float or plane. We start working with difficult areas - these are corners and slopes.

Reinforcement of corners

For work, we need a corner made of plastic, since it is chemically inert, and the cement mortar that we use has an alkaline environment. In addition, polymers are practically non-corrosive and easily cut.

Profile marking: UP S-10 x 15 x 2500 stands for the following:

• UP - corner profile;
• C - mesh;
• 10 - width, in mm;
• 15 - length, in mm;
• 2500 - length, in mm.

We start working from the corner of the building. So before that, it is necessary to put them, both internal and external, in order - to install ready-made perforated plastic corners with a mesh, such are commercially available, we talked about them above. The diagram of their location is clearly visible in the figure.

Do not forget that the corners should be set professionally, and the insulation should be laid according to the level using the "rule" and thread. We press the corners to the insulation and, using a level, set them horizontally and vertically. The glue protruding through the perforation, which was applied to the surface in advance, is smoothed out, with its help the corner is leveled and fixed.

The process itself is as follows: we apply a mortar with a spatula (200 mm) at an angle (50–70 mm on each side of the corner, with a layer thickness of 2–3 mm). We apply plastic corner at the corner of the structure, press it to the surface and smooth it with a spatula along the mesh from corner to side, slightly down. It turns out an angle, on each side of which a mesh is glued by 50–70 mm, and another 50–70 mm of mesh on a clean insulation.

If a situation arises that it is necessary to connect two corners together, then we connect them vertically, just do not forget that the joint must be covered from above with a reinforcing mesh, at least 100 millimeters.

Reinforcement of door and window openings

Using the level, we check the slopes again and, if necessary, trim them with a grater. We set the profiles of the abutment with the mesh. In the diagram, you can see the already finished construction of the window opening.

We apply a layer of mortar on the slopes, the profile mesh is stretched, embedded in it and smoothed. We do this around the entire perimeter of the opening. Next, we mount the corners and the window sill profile with glass mesh on the corners of the opening. A little more mortar is applied to the corners, so that no air pockets are created under the profiles, and the excess solution will come out through the perforations. Do not forget to control the level of the correct profile setting.

It turns out that one mesh goes over another, they are embedded in the solution and on all 4 corners of the opening at an angle of 45 0 we apply a "kerchief" - a piece of mesh. Outwardly, it will look like this:

Location of the "kerchief"

Stress is created at the corners of the openings and gussets prevent cracks from appearing in these places. This section of work is performed in the same way as the previous ones: a solution is applied to the surface, a mesh is applied, it is embedded with a spatula. Only the "kerchief" must be pressed with force, remove all excess adhesive mixture so that there are no thickenings on the surface.

When the slopes are processed, it is necessary to glue glass mesh strips on their inner corners, which in width will be equal to the width of the slope, and in length will be 300–400 mm.

Fastening the reinforcing mesh to the insulation

We start moving from the top from the left corner of the site, then downward in diagonal movements in the direction from the center to the sides. From below, we cut off the excess length of the mesh at the level of the basement profile.

It is necessary to apply the glue with a spatula, at least 350 mm. With a smaller tool, apply the mixture to a large one, stretching it along the entire length of the tool, and apply the solution to the insulation. "Ceresit" has proven itself well. The layer should be 2-3 mm. Work should be done small plots: 90 cm in width and about one meter in height. If there is a 1 m mesh in a roll, then we grab 90 cm and 10 cm remains clean without a mixture, for a joint.

We process only a meter in height: in sunny weather, the solution dries quickly, but you need to have time to apply it, lay the mesh, add the solution and iron the surface with a spatula.

We apply the mesh so that it lies 100 mm wide on a clean section of the insulation. With a spatula, smooth out the area from the center to the edges, down, so that the mesh "sticks" evenly into the mixture. Ideally, when it is completely in the mixture, but its outlines are barely visible.

The mesh is sold in a roll, it is necessary to make a strip of mesh from top to bottom, without cutting, and only join the seams vertically. Starting from the top to make a height of 1.5-2 meters, go down and finish the work.

The principle for joining seams is the same both in the vertical direction and in the horizontal direction. We leave 100 mm of mesh without mortar, it just lies on the heat-insulating material. We coat the next section with the mixture (with the capture of a clean strip), apply a mesh with an overlap of 100 mm and level the area with a spatula. Thus, we get smoother and smoother seams on top.

The mesh must be well stretched, positioned in the middle of the layer of adhesive solution, it must come out to the surface and its pattern must not be visible.

If the mesh is not stretched and there are bubbles or folds, it will have to be cut out and with an overlap of 100 mm, along the edges of the cutout, stick a new mesh.

Remember that you cannot glue the mesh by laying it on an insulation that has not been treated with an adhesive. With a thin reinforcing layer, cracks will appear on the plaster at the joints of the heat-insulating material. Also, the deformation of the surface can be associated with the fact that the reinforcing mesh was laid without overlap or unevenly sunk in the solution.

After the adhesive has dried, the surface must be primed with a plaster layer (2-3 mm). It will chemically separate the plaster layer from the reinforced layer, reduce absorption, and increase the adhesion of the finishing material. Be sure to make sure that the dowel heads are hidden, and the reinforced layer grabs with its head.

Finishing

A “wet façade” in terms of the exterior of a house offers a wide range of choices. Traditionally it is: textured plaster, "Bark beetle", under the "fur coat" and coloring.

But after the surface of the reinforced facade layer has dried, it must be sanded. A plastic float with an emery nozzle is suitable for this. Movements should be circular, counterclockwise, with little effort. Grab a small area, at arm's length, so that it is convenient to work with it. Then, on the surface, we carry out the operation of dedusting and priming.

Materials for the finishing layer of the "wet facade"

The decorative coating should not reduce the vapor permeability and hydrophobicity of the protective layer, which means that we choose materials that meet such indicators as:

• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to water and adverse natural factors;
• strength.

It will not be possible to independently prepare a plaster mixture for the facade, since the use of a publicly available solution based on sand and cement is not enough. This requires special components and additives. On sale there is a facade plaster on foam plastic, its analogues, mineral wool. More details about the materials can be found in the article "Finding out what types of facades and for what houses are used: stone, wooden, plastered, translucent, composite".

It is worth remembering that it is better not to combine mixtures of different manufacturers. Well-known manufacturers offer their kits of materials, which necessarily include: adhesive and plaster solutions, primer, paint for the facade, fasteners. Each composition is selected in such a way that the best combination of strength and durability properties is ensured.

For work, only special formulations for outdoor work are used. You can learn more about them in the article "Facades", here we will talk about plaster mixes for certain types of insulation.

You can plaster the foam outside:

• mineral mixtures;
• acrylic compounds;
• silicone solutions;
• silicate plasters.

The solution for finishing polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam must be specialized, designed specifically for working with synthetic insulation. And remember that prices are different manufacturers differ significantly, but choose a quality material, since the strength and durability of the coating depends on it.

Heat insulators of the Penoplex company are considered the most effective of all existing ones. So, at the end of 2011 (company data), the share of their products in this segment on the domestic market was 52%. And last May, 2015, in Novomoskovsk, the first domestic and fourth in the world production line with a capacity of 550,000 m 3 of thermal insulation per year was launched.

However, the material is exposed to external factors: sun, frost, wind, shock loads. Under their influence, the heat insulator loses its properties and is subject to destruction. A win-win option for protection is facade plastering using foam or other insulation materials:

1. Mineral plaster, which consists of cement and polymers. Endowed with a low coefficient of water absorption, resistant to fungi and mold, easy to apply, effective in facade insulation.
2. Acrylic composition which is elastic, has good water-repellent characteristics, is not afraid of the influence of UV radiation. If you live in a place with a high level of humidity and do not know how to plaster the penoplex outside, feel free to use this composition.
3. Silicate mixture quite effective, elastic, antistatic, vapor permeable, resistant to climatic precipitation.
4. Silicate plaster, which has high rates of vapor permeability, elasticity, resistant to aggressive chemical compounds, microorganisms, ultraviolet. But its cost is much of the above-described compositions, it is applied more difficult and in color palette pastel colors prevail.

The plastered surface can be made smooth and embossed. When choosing a plaster mix, be sure to look for what texture it is intended for.

In terms of resistance to mechanical stress, experts consider acrylic plaster to be effective, followed by silicate and mineral plaster. The surface texture affects the service life: smooth is more sensitive to external influences.

It is also worth noting that mineral wool is used to insulate the facade. This material has such qualities as:

• good fire resistance;
• high vapor permeability, water-repellent parameters;
• ecological well-being;
• long service life.

Such insulation will last a long time and will reliably protect the walls of your home. Modern products are treated during the manufacturing process with water-repellent compounds. Previously, the release of formaldehyde resins from it during its production was considered a disadvantage of mineral wool, but modern technologies have helped to get rid of this disadvantage.
In 2009, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), based on the confirmation of the organization NTP (National Toxicology Program) in the United States, assigned mineral wool the 3rd group according to the IARC classification (IARC / CIRC). This includes materials that do not belong to the category of carcinogens for humans, like tea, coffee. And in 2010, the World Health Organization recognized mineral wool as completely harmless.

The heat insulator is attached to the wall with an adhesive and then, for reliability, dowels with wide heads are hammered. Further, the process of reinforcement takes place, plastering on mineral wool - as well as on expanded polystyrene, and painting the facade.

Facade plastering technology

The selection of the desired composition is important point when insulating the outer walls of the house. But the quality of the coating depends not only on the material, but also on how to plaster the insulation. This must be done correctly, following a certain sequence.

When plastering, remember that one wall must be worked off at a time, otherwise traces of the connection will remain on the surface.

Insulation plaster is applied to the surface not earlier than 3–7 days after the backing plaster has been applied. Requirements are met SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulation and finishing coatings": temperature not lower than + 5 ° С, not higher than + 25 ° С. Not allowed strong wind, precipitation.

To apply the plaster layer you will need:

• mixer for construction works or a perforator with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• capacity;
• large and small spatulas;
• half-grater or grater.

If you know how to plaster mineral wool, but you don’t know how to plaster penoplex, then understand that there is no difference in the processing of insulation at this stage. First of all, using a mixer, mix the solution in a container, the packaging says detailed instructions... Apply the plaster mortar with a small spatula to a large one and distribute the composition evenly vertically along the wall, pulling it out.

We collect the surplus with a grater, which we hold at a slight slope and easily press it against the wall. Mix the excess plaster with the bulk in the container.

We start grouting the next section of plaster from the junction with the previous one. The solution should not be dry at the junction.

When the layer of plaster grasps a little, with a smooth float dipped in water, we rub the surface in order to level the defects, and then we give the wall the desired texture using graters made of artificial material.

Facade painting

Once the walls are dry, they can be painted. About what paint to choose for work and how to calculate required amount, you can learn from the article "Paint for facades". For work, you will need a ditch, a paint sprayer or a roller on a telescopic handle, brushes, a round brush made of natural bristles, masking tape, plastic wrap.

Any paint will make the color of the facade uniform, it will protect it from moisture and dirt. We recommend painting all plaster mixes, except for acrylic ones.

Be sure to protect the plinth and its top edge. If you paint with a roller or brush, then masking tape is enough, and if you use a spray gun for work, then it is better to cover it with thick paper. Cover windows, sills, metal parts of the building with plastic wrap.

Lime paint is considered extremely beneficial for plastered surfaces as it can be diluted with water, but it is not durable.

When using it for work, follow the requirements GOST 12.3.035-84 SSBT “Construction. Painting works. Safety requirements", do not forget about your safety - use rubberized gloves and goggles. Splashes of paint on the skin are easily washed off with water, only this must be done in a timely manner.

The final paint coat is applied to a single wall in one pass without interruption so that the joints are not visible on the surface.

Working with a paint sprayer is much faster and more convenient. You need to start from any angle, up and down movements. But be sure to use personal protective equipment: glasses, gloves and clothing.
Paint brushes are needed for painting surfaces in hard-to-reach places.
Working with the roller will not cause any particular difficulties. The area of ​​the site that needs to be processed at a time should not exceed 1 m 2. Roll out a roller in a ditch, it will be saturated with paint, and apply 3-4 stripes on the walls. After that, we roll them with a roller until the paint is evenly distributed over the surface.

Among the most common mistakes are the following:

• Performing work under unfavorable climatic conditions, in this case, a wet facade forms cracks or swelling of the surface.
• Poor surface preparation.
• Poor and loose joining of heat-insulating material.
• Wrong position of the reinforcing mesh, small overlap.
• Laying the mesh directly on the thermal insulation layer.
• Wrong choice of material and its inadequacy.
• Failure to comply with the rules for fixing insulation in a checkerboard pattern.

When insulating even a one-story house, you still have to use scaffolding or scaffolding. If you work alone, then in order not to drag them from place to place, better work carry out by sections: in height for the growth of the paver, and in width - to be guided by the dimensions of the scaffold.

Deciding to insulate your house various materials, you can combine them.

In the picture, the protruding part is faced with a "wet facade". In this case, you should not use mineral wool, as it will sag during installation.

Difficulties in work will be delivered by soldering polystyrene, but the result with this material will be excellent.

The installation of a "wet facade" should be carried out in the spring-summer period, then it will not be necessary to build a heating circuit, which will not entail additional financial investments. If the installation technology is violated, the appearance of a greenhouse effect is likely, and this will have a destructive effect on the plaster layer.

The design of the facade of a building is just as important as its interior design. Modern manufacturers produce many practical materials that can be used for the exterior decoration of houses of any size and layout.

What's behind the title?

Not every homeowner knows exactly what constitutes a wet facade. Before proceeding to familiarize yourself with this finishing method, you should answer to this question... The memorable name of the wet façade speaks for itself. In this case, it means the use of high-quality adhesive solutions in a liquid or semi-liquid state. Thanks to the introduction of this sophisticated technology, living quarters are reliably protected from the appearance of dew points - with a wet facade, they are taken out, and do not penetrate into the ceilings.

In addition, the definition of a wet facade includes three main methods of finishing private houses., at which the fasteners of the heaters, reinforcement mesh and claddings are carried out using special adhesive mixtures. Even if there is a sharp difference in temperature inside and outside the building, destructive condensation will not accumulate in houses with a wet facade. This technology saw the light back in the 60s - 70s of the last century, when the question arose about efficient energy saving of buildings. It is worth noting here that it is high-quality external insulation walls in this case is optimal solution, since it makes it possible to move the dew point as far as possible from the interior spaces in the dwelling.

Technology features: pros and cons

Currently, homeowners can choose the best insulation option for themselves - external or internal. However, the lion's share of consumers turn to reliable external systems in which the insulation is located outside. Today, many homeowners turn to this design of the facade of private houses, as it allows you to extend the life of building and cladding materials. In this case, as in many others, you first need to properly prepare the facade. After that, you can proceed directly to its insulation with suitable materials. The choice of heaters today is greater than ever, so you can choose the best option for any price.

Only after this, the masters begin to apply a special adhesive to the insulating material. Following the technology, then a reinforcing mesh is applied to it, resistant to the effects of alkaline compounds. The final stages of all work are plastering the base, as well as applying a finishing layer of decorative trim. For a wet facade to be reliable and durable, it must be a multi-layer cake. This rule cannot be neglected, otherwise the cladding will be less durable and reliable, and it will be cold inside the dwelling.

Such thought-out to the smallest detail systems boast many positive qualities for which they are chosen by many homeowners.

• One such system combines both decorative and thermal insulation functions, which is very convenient and saves time on additional work.
• If the walls of the house are too light or thin, then a wet facade is perfect solution... With such a system, the house will become not only much more attractive, but also much warmer and more comfortable.
• Using a high-quality warm facade, you can significantly save on heating, since the housing does not need excessive heating.

• The good thing about a wet facade is that it can be used for any kind of substrate.
• With the help of such a system, additional sound insulation can be provided to the living space.
• Thanks to the wet facade, the service life of the house will increase significantly, as it will be reliably protected from negative external factors.
• With a similar design, the houses look much neater.

• Over the years, ugly salt stains do not appear on a wet facade, which is very difficult to get rid of.
• Overlappings with such a performance do not add in themselves, therefore, a reinforced foundation does not need to be made for them.
• According to experts, a wet facade is cheaper than analogs.
• In the presence of a wet facade inner part dwellings will be protected not only from frost, but also from high temperatures... There will be no overheating and stuffiness in the rooms.

Today, such technologies are used by those who are used to taking care of their home and want it to retain its attractive appearance for as long as possible. However, do not think that a wet facade is a flawless solution, devoid of flaws.

It is worth paying attention to the disadvantages that are inherent in such a system.

• Many homeowners are saddened by the fact that the installation of a wet facade can only be started at a temperature of +5 degrees Celsius. V otherwise all materials can fail at the stage of application.
• In no case should the installation work be carried out if it is raining outside the window (even weak and fine). And during wet weather, it is better to postpone the installation of a wet facade "for later".

• When performing such a facade, it is necessary to ensure that all building and facing materials fit together.
• Direct Sun rays falling on a wet facade can lead to excessive drying out of the mortar on the ceilings, which can negatively affect the durability of the cladding and its durability and wear.
• Plastered substrates must be provided with high-quality wind protection. This is due to the fact that dust and dirt can adhere to the fresh coating during the settling process. At the same time, the type of finish will deteriorate greatly.

How serious the listed disadvantages are - everyone decides for himself. However, you will never encounter many of them if you adhere to the technology of arranging a wet facade. The quality of the purchased materials also plays an important role. Low-grade mortar and adhesive mixtures will not last very long, and their application can cause many difficulties.

Pie filling

As mentioned above, a prerequisite for a high-quality wet facade is a competent “pie” arrangement. The latter includes several important layers, without which a reliable coating will not work. A special facade wall acts as a base in such a system. It can be any - brick, wood, monolithic, foam block or sheet. The main requirement that the base must meet is a perfectly flat surface. If we neglect this condition, air will constantly circulate between the floor surface and the insulating materials, due to which the insulation in the room will not reach the desired level.

The next important layer of the "pie" is the heat-insulating layer. Experts recommend buying nets that are not afraid of contact with alkalis. After the heat is followed by a reinforced layer. As a rule, it contains mineral glue and a reinforcing mesh. Further, you will need a layer of high-quality facade paint or decorative plaster. It is also allowed to purchase special facade slabs that are lightweight for finishing.

Among other things, it should be borne in mind that the entire "pie" of the wet facade must be watertight. That is why all materials must be selected in such a way that each new layer in the direction from the inside out is more vapor-tight than the previous one. Only if this requirement is met, the dwelling will “breathe”. And it should also be borne in mind that the thermal circuit of the "pie" must remain uninterrupted. There should be no cracks, gaps or cracks in it.

A multi-layer system called a wet facade is very popular today. Many homeowners choose it, however, not all of them know that there are several varieties of such a facade design. To begin with, it is worth considering in detail what subspecies wet facades are divided into according to the materials used.

• Organic. In such systems, as a rule, cheap foam plastic acts as a heater. As for the reinforcement, it is performed using a special reinforcing mass of organic origin. The final finishing coating in this case is silicone plaster mix although organic plaster can be used instead.

• Mineral. If you decide to turn to a mineral wet facade, then you should purchase high quality mineral wool for insulation. Reinforcement in such a system occurs with the help of a special reinforcing solution of mineral origin. For the final decorative coating the same material will work as for organic options.
• Combined. With such a system, inexpensive foam is also used for insulation. For further finishing, mineral raw materials are used.

Modern wet facades also differ in the method of fixing.

• With a heavy version, the insulation does not need to be installed directly on the floor. Instead, slabs of thermal insulation material are slid onto dowels fitted with small hooks. These fasteners are pre-inserted into the walls. In this case, a reliable mesh made of metal is applied to the insulation. At the same time, this element is attached to special pressure plates. After that, you can proceed to plastering the bases and finishing them with a finishing layer of material. It is quite possible to cope with such work with your own hands.

• Light facades are much more common than heavy ones. With this type of finish, the insulation is attached directly to the walls. For this, it is permissible to use a suitable adhesive together with plastic dowels.

The choice of insulation

One of the main roles in a wet facade is played by a properly selected insulation. Today, for this, as a rule, they choose either foam sheets (their thickness should be from 5 to 10 cm), or high-density mineral wool (it is better to take basalt products).

The choice of insulating material for a wet facade should be very careful and balanced.

• Price. As for this criterion, then foam plastic undoubtedly outperforms mineral wool. This material has been used for a very long time and is inexpensive, so many consumers choose it, despite its fragility.
• Water vapor permeability properties. Such qualities are inherent in the popular but expensive mineral wool. According to professionals, the house "breathes" with such a heater, therefore it is more comfortable to be in it. In addition, "breathing" dwellings are not susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew. Polyfoam does not differ in special vapor permeability, being inferior in this case to mineral wool.

• The complexity of installation work. If we compare foam and mineral wool in terms of the complexity of the installation, then we can immediately say that the first of them is simpler and more malleable. This is due to the rigid foam structure.
• Fire safety. Fire safety characteristics are also very important for insulation. So, foam boards are flammable, so they must be treated with flame retardants. Basalt wool does not burn. It can withstand temperatures up to +1000 degrees.

And also you need to pay attention to the thickness of the purchased insulation. Today, in stores of building and finishing materials, you can find many insulation materials with various dimensional parameters. The thickness of the slabs is different and can be from 25 to 200 mm. As a rule, the pitch in this case is 10 mm.

It should be borne in mind that too thin sheets of insulation may be ineffective. But you do not need to rush to extremes, because overly thick materials are also not recommended to be used, since they will only lead to unnecessary spending, and in a home with excessive insulation it will not be very comfortable. Experts strongly recommend purchasing high-quality insulation materials from well-known manufacturers for the facades of buildings. Excessive savings can lead to the purchase of a low-quality product that will not perform its basic functions and will require replacement, and this is an additional expense.

Materials and tools

An ordinary home craftsman can also build a high-quality wet facade. However, for this you need to stock up not only with patience, but also with everyone the necessary tools and consumables... All materials and tools must be of unsurpassed quality. It will be much easier to work with such components, and the result will definitely not disappoint.

It is worth considering all the positions that may be useful for such work.

• You will need a starter or basement profile. It is necessary to ensure that the parameter of its width corresponds to the thickness of the insulation. The quality of the profile here must correspond to the perimeter of the ceilings to be finished.

• You should purchase reliable connection parts for the base / plinth profile. Thanks to these components, it is possible to achieve perfectly correct joining of all profiles in a single plane. In addition, these components allow you to form the correct joint (temperature gap) between the profiles.
• Fasteners for frame profiles. It is worth making sure that the expansion dowel-nails have a length of at least 40 mm if partitions are finished from solid brick or concrete. For ceilings consisting of hollow bricks, it is recommended to choose fasteners 60 mm, for aerated concrete and gas silicate - 100 mm. It is easy to count the points of fasteners. If the insulation layer is 80 mm or more, then the step will be 300 mm, and if the thickness is less than 80 mm, the installation can be done in 500 mm steps. A plastic spacer is required for each anchor point. This part is useful for the most accurate and correct alignment of the profiles.

• It is necessary to purchase a quality primer to prepare the slabs for gluing the slabs. In this case, it is recommended to buy a primer for brick, plaster or gas silicate bases deep penetration... Its average consumption is 300 ml per 1 m². For concrete bases, it is better to buy concrete-contact soil. The average consumption of such a solution, as a rule, is 400 ml per 1 m².
• It is necessary to purchase a high-quality adhesive for fixing the insulation boards. Select only adhesives that are specifically designed for such tasks.

• It is worth buying high-quality insulation boards with a pre-calculated thickness. Their average consumption, taking into account cutting and possible waste, takes from 1.05 per 1 m².
• You will also need a dowel-fungus. They are needed to mechanically strengthen the insulation material. In total, the length of the dowel should correspond to the thickness of the insulation, as well as the length of the spacer.
• You will need to stock up on materials for applying the base reinforcing layer that goes along the insulation plates. For this, a specialized plaster mixture or a reliable adhesive composition is most often purchased, which is also used for installing warm plates.
• You need to buy a reinforcing mesh. It is recommended to purchase wear-resistant and durable products from materials that are not afraid of alkali.
• It is imperative to stock up on water-dispersive soil, decorative plaster and paint specifically for outdoor use.

Preparatory work

When all the necessary components have already been prepared, you should proceed to the next important step - this is the preparation of the foundations for the future installation of a wet facade.

It is worth disassembling this process using the example of fixing the insulation to a suitable adhesive composition.

• Insulation plates can be attached with glue only if the base is thoroughly cleaned of all excess. For example, if the old paint and varnish coating is present on the facade, then it will need to be removed right down to the base itself or a layer of plaster.

• It is allowed to leave the old plaster only if it is still in perfect condition. To make sure of this, you need to carefully check the base with a light tap. If unstable areas are found, they should be quickly cleaned up.
• If there is mold or mildew on the walls, then they cannot be used for arranging a wet facade. Such defects must be removed from the walls.
• After removing the fungal deposits of the overlap, it is necessary to coat it with a special "healing" agent. It is allowed to start other work only when the antiseptic on the bases is completely dry.

• It should be noted that the walls must be flat. Any irregularities, cracks, cracks and potholes must be repaired. It is worth sealing them up with soil, sanding them.
• It is necessary to inspect the plane of the walls both horizontally and vertically. If deviations exceeding 20 mm were noticed, then it will not be possible to level them a little later with plaster, so problems need to be solved as soon as possible.
• Install metal components on the walls in advance, which are used for mounting antennas, gutters, lighting fixtures and other similar things.
• When the repair and plastered layer on the floors is completely dry, the surface must be primed. Primer can be applied with a roller or brush. You must try not to lose sight of a single site on the base.

Installation and plastering

If the base is prepared correctly, then you can proceed to the installation of the starting basement profiles and the further installation of the insulating material.

Worth considering step by step instructions for carrying out these works.

• The basement profile must be placed strictly horizontally. It is on it that the first insulation plate will be installed. The evenness of the location of this part should be monitored using a level.
• You should never overlap profiles. It would be more correct to mount these parts exclusively end-to-end, maintaining an interval of 2-3 mm.
• At the outer and inner corners, the profiles must be fastened while maintaining a gap. For this purpose, these parts are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

• If the density of the insulation exceeds 80 cm, then you should take care of temporary stops for mounting the starting profile. These parts should not bend. After installing the insulation, the supports are simply removed.
• When all the supports are ready, you should proceed to preparing the solution. You should follow the instructions on the package.
• V the right amount water gradually add a dry solution. To bring all the components to a liquid state, you need to use a drill with a mixer attachment.
• Stir the composition until a single mass without lumps is formed. This usually takes 5 minutes. Next, you need to make a short pause for 6–8 minutes and mix the solution again.

It is permissible to lay the glue on the insulation material in the following ways:

• in strips of 100 mm along the perimeter, leaving 20-30 cm from the edge;
• small slides with a diameter of about 200 mm, while the height of the applied solution can be 10 or 20 mm.

If the wall to be insulated is fairly flat, then the glue can be applied to its entire surface using a notched trowel. It is recommended to apply the glue as follows:

• a small amount of the mixture must be rubbed into the coating of the insulation plate, with little effort;
• transfer the required amount of adhesive.

Further, the slab, smeared with glue, leans into place and presses firmly against it. It is necessary to distribute the glue, slightly moving the part to the sides, up and down. Any excess glue that will enter the edges should be removed as soon as possible. The next slab of insulation should be placed as close as possible to the previous one, leaving no gaps. If it does not work without them, then they can be closed with mineral wool wedges. As a rule, the installation of insulation begins from one corner, moving further in rows.

In this case, the following rules must be observed:

• the initial row must be installed in such a way that it rests against the first profile along the side (limiter);
• the plates must be laid with a shift of the vertical joints by at least 200 mm;
• at the corners, use the "gear lock" technique;

• parts of slabs close to corners, partitions or slopes should not be more than 200 mm wide;
• as soon as possible, you need to dock the insulation layer with the ceilings and slopes.

When completing the installation of the insulation, you need to make sure that there are no gaps and gaps anywhere. All defects must be eliminated with the remnants of mineral wool. After laying the insulation, a reinforcing mesh should be installed. It is needed for the finishing layer.

Finishing

When the reinforcing layer is completely dry (it takes from 3 to 7 days), you can proceed directly to the finishing of the bases. Apply a thin layer of the plaster mixture evenly using a slicker in an angled position. The resulting surface will be the ideal base for processing with reliable facade paint or other selected material. This procedure is the last step in warming the outside of the house.

When installing a wet facade, you should follow the advice from specialists.

• For work on the facade, you can use only those materials that are not afraid of temperature changes, otherwise, as a result, you can get cracked plaster.
• It is worth running your hand over the surface of the base. If there are traces of chalk on it, and something is crumbling from the wall, then the floors should be cleaned as carefully as possible.

• The plinth profile after installation must be in one line. There should be no gaps or crevices in the connection areas.
• Experts strongly advise against choosing fiberglass plates for home insulation. Such materials cannot boast of sufficient strength. Moreover, they are afraid of alkalis, which plaster and adhesive mixtures cannot do without.
• The heat insulator should not be pressed against the base again. It is also not recommended to move it after a few minutes. If the insulation is not glued properly, then you should remove the glue solution, and then apply it again to the plate and press the part to the surface.

• In the process of insulating slopes, it is necessary to ensure that the insulating material extends beyond their limits by about 10 mm. With this option, it will be much easier to dock the main facade insulation.
• During installation, the dowel is considered to be correctly installed if its head is located in the same plane with the heat-insulating layer.
• The reinforced mesh cannot be laid by installing it on a heater that was not previously coated with glue, since if the reinforcing layer is rather thin, then cracks will appear at its joints.

• If you decide to do all the work yourself, then you should stock up on branded materials and mixtures from well-known manufacturers, despite their cost. It is advisable to purchase products that have good consumer reviews.
• Facade work should be carried out in late winter or early autumn. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with the weather forecast before proceeding to the design of the facade.

Beautiful examples

A wet facade with a rough peach-colored finish looks spectacular on almost any house, from small to large and multi-storey. You can dilute the pastel paint with light side inserts and a dark roof.

Light coffee facades with white window frames... In tandem with ceilings of a similar shade, a dark chocolate roof, as well as a fence made of wood and brick, will look harmonious.

A wet facade, finished with snow-white or cream paint, will look spectacular if supplemented with inserts under a gray wild stone. Such a building can be decorated with rocky paths and wrought-iron fences around the site or balcony.

The original wet façade with coffee borders can be complemented by stonework at the bottom. On such a house, a burgundy-colored roof will organically look, which will effectively dilute the pastel palettes.

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Before considering the issue on the merits, you should understand the terminology. The fact is that many articles give fundamentally incorrect definitions of a wet facade, which causes confusion among inexperienced developers. Amateurs call such insulation a wet facade, for the installation of which water-based glue is used. Since this material is "wet", then the facade, respectively, is also "wet". For persuasiveness, they talk about the dew point (in this case, they say, it is taken out of the wall) and the information takes on a "scientific" look. What is it really?

According to the current building regulations, all buildings must meet the requirements for heat conservation. It is impossible to achieve this without the use of heaters. For example, even wooden walls in the middle zone of our country should have a thickness of at least 60 cm, only such parameters guarantee the required thermal conductivity.

If the walls are made of bricks, then their thickness increases to 120 cm or more. Of course, no one installs such houses, and to improve the heat-saving indicators, effective insulation materials are used, most often mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Insulation can be done on both internal and external surfaces of the facade walls. Let's dwell on the outer surfaces, they are insulated in two ways.

As for the dew point, in all cases, without exception, it is taken out of the premises. The only exception is that the walls of the house are so thin that the rooms are cooled down to the dew point. Such cases occur in old panel Khrushchevs.

We deliberately took your time to clarify the terminology, only knowing this can you correctly understand the process of facade insulation using various technologies.

Technically, such facades should be called a heat-insulating composite system for insulating facade walls with external plaster layers. Plates of foam or pressed mineral wool are used as heaters, the thickness is selected taking into account the climatic zone and the initial characteristics of the thermal conductivity of the facade walls. But in most cases, you need at least ten centimeters. Pressed mineral wool is used very rarely and only of special types. The reason is insufficient indicators of physical strength, partial shrinkage during operation. What layers does a wet facade consist of?

1. The base is a front wall. It can be brick, wood, foam blocks, monolithic concrete or OSB sheets. Requirement - the surface must be flat. Otherwise, air will circulate between the wall surface and the foam plates, due to this phenomenon, the effectiveness of insulation decreases significantly.
2. Heat insulating layer. Expanded polystyrene of front brands (non-combustible). Fixed with glue and disc dowels.
3. Fiberglass mesh. It is advisable to purchase alkali-resistant nets.
4. Ordinary paintable or decorative plaster. It is allowed to finish finishing with light facing facade slabs.

Before proceeding with the description of the technology for installing a wet facade, we want to dwell in more detail on the requirements for facade plaster. The quality in this case is directly proportional to the number of years during which they will remain in their original form:

• the integrity of the facade;
• its novelty.

So, it is best to opt for flexible facade plasters. Silicone compounds are ideal, for example, new generation plaster "Bark beetle". Let's consider the main advantages of this facade coating.

Elasticity. Due to the presence of silicone in the composition, "Bark beetle" is flexible and elastic. Such properties of the coating prevent the formation of microscopic cracks on the dried plaster. This is an important quality, because after the completion of construction work, any building is subjected to:

• vibrations affecting the structure during shrinkage;
• the expansion and contraction of the materials from which the building is made, with changes in temperature.

All of the above circumstances lead to the formation of small and frequent cracks on ordinary plaster. An elastic silicone compound can protect your facade from this trouble.

Texture of silicone plaster "Bark beetle", grain 2 mm

Moisture resistance. Another unique feature of the "Bark beetle" plaster from the "Farbe" plant is 100% moisture resistance and full vapor permeability. For this, again, you can thank the unusual composition of the mixture. The finished plaster adheres tightly to every unevenness of the wall to be covered, and creates a protection through which water is guaranteed not to be able to seep.

Long-term color retention. The composition of the plaster from "Farbe" contains silicone resins, which give the following effects:

• the surface does not fade - protection from ultraviolet rays is provided;
• prevents the effect of any other phenomena affecting the loss of brightness of the facade.

If, as a result of mechanical action, the plaster has been scratched or rubbed somewhere, you will not even notice it. The entire mass of plaster is tinted in color and no scratches or abrasions are visible on it.

Self-cleaning. Thanks to the "clean facade" technology, the "Bark beetle" facing plaster is self-cleaning. This happens due to the following factors:

• during distribution and solidification, the elastic composition forms a smooth, solid film;
• in the presence of even light rain, dust settled on the facade is easily washed off from it without assistance.

In other words, if you are too lazy to independently monitor the appearance of the dwelling, and would like it to be "itself", the "Bark beetle" plaster from the "Farbe" plant is your option.

Record service life. The service life of the "Bark beetle" is, on average, five times higher than those for similar products on the market today. If using ordinary plaster, you are updating facade coating once every 5 years, with the "Bark beetle" it should be done once every quarter of a century.

Tinting. According to the manufacturer, the silicone plaster "Bark beetle" you are interested in is tinted in about 2,500 different shades. This variety is due to the use of computer tinting and pigments from the world's leading manufacturers.

Variants of shades of silicone plaster "Korooed" Farbe

Small expense. Dry plasters imply a material consumption for cladding, equal to about 5 kilograms per 1 m². However, the product of the "Farbe" plant, due to the quality and high density of the composition, suggests using no more than 3 kilograms for the same unit of area, which is enough cavity to form an ideal coating.

The production of the considered silicone plaster for facades is certified according to international standard... By purchasing silicone plaster, you provide the walls own home reliable protection.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Video - How to apply silicone plaster "Bark beetle"

Prices for various types of decorative plaster bark beetle

Decorative plaster bark beetle

Wet facade installation technology

Count the number building materials with a margin of about 10%, prepare the tools. We recommend using foam boards as insulation, this is the cheapest and most effective option. The disadvantage of foam is the complete impermeability of moisture, but you have to put up with this. Moreover, brick or concrete surfaces and so they hardly breathe.

For finishing the facades, you will need scaffolding, it is better to use metal ones. If not, do it yourself from lumber. Pay great attention to safety, install them on stable surfaces. Check the position on the level, if the building has more than two floors, then you need to tie the vertical posts to the facade walls with special metal hooks.

Important. When installing the scaffolds, set aside the gap between them and the wall, the size of the gap should ensure comfortable work hand while plastering or painting the insulation layer. Otherwise, the scaffolding will have to be dismantled and re-installed, and this is an extra waste of time and money.

Step 1. Check the surfaces of the facade walls, irregularities of more than 1 cm need to be cut down, all the rest can be trimmed with glue. Do not be afraid that the cost of the work will increase. If we calculate the time for additional plastering of the walls, the cost of materials, then the use of glue as a leveling solution will be much more profitable.

Step 2. Beat off the lower horizontal line with a special rope with blue, do it in a strictly horizontal position. If you are afraid that the first row of foam plates will slide down, then along the line you need to fix a flat wooden or metal rail. Fasten it with dowels or nails, it all depends on the material of the front wall.

Practical advice. Dowels must match the base, they differ for wood, foam block and brick walls, keep this in mind when buying materials. Dowels can be screwed into wood or driven into a prepared hole. The length of the dowel should be equal to the thickness of the foam and glue sheet plus approximately 60 mm for fixing in the wall.

Step 3. Porous surfaces should be primed, use a deep penetration primer. Apply liberally to maximize saturation of porous substrates. Spray cement laitance on smooth cement or brick façade walls. Such operations will increase the coefficient of adhesion of the adhesive to surfaces.

Step 4. Measure the deviation from the horizontal of the corners of the house and check the plane of the walls. This can be done with a plumb line and a rope.

1. Install plumb lines in the corners of the house along the entire height of the wall. Tie the rope above and below to specially installed metal rods, pull it well.
2. Attach a horizontal cord to the taut ropes; do not tighten the knots.
3. Gradually pull the horizontal cord up along the vertical ropes and measure the distance between it and the wall.

This data will make it possible to assess the condition of the wall. If the deviations exceed a centimeter, then they will have to be repaired.

Step 5. Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. The amount depends on your productivity. While preparing the mixture, pour water into the container, and then add the dry ingredients.

Practical advice. If the walls of the facade are covered with old paint, then do not rush to remove it, it is long and difficult. First, check the adhesion to the substrate. To do this, cut a grid of grooves in the paint about 1 × 1 cm in size, glue masking tape to the surface and tear it off. If the paint remains on the wall - great, the facade insulation can be done along it. If not, you will have to remove it from the surface of the walls.

Step 6. The adhesive must be applied to the foam surface. If the wall is flat (unevenness does not exceed 5 mm), use a comb. But this happens very rarely. In most cases, the solution will have to be applied with a trowel or spatula using the beacon method. One sheet requires up to eight lighthouses up to two centimeters high around the perimeter and in the center, with a diameter of about 10 cm. Due to this height, the foam plates are easy to align. Along the edges of the board, glue should be applied at an angle to prevent it from getting into the seams.

Important. After one or two rows, eliminate the possibility of natural air convection between the insulation and the facade wall, otherwise natural draft will appear and the insulation will be ineffective. Not just bad, but ineffective, keep that in mind. To eliminate traction, the mortar on these slabs must be continuous along one line, the gap between the slabs should be completely absent.

Step 7. Apply the board to the surface immediately after spreading. Press and level the foam with a long wooden trowel or rail, control the position with a level.

Important. Inexperienced builders can deviate vertically, it is difficult for them to control the position with a level. We recommend making a rope template for yourself. Stretch them at the desired distance from the wall and secure. The ropes will need to be installed at a distance of about 2-3 meters. Such simple devices will allow you to constantly monitor the position of all foam sheets along the height of the facade wall.

The difference in height between the planes of two adjacent slabs cannot exceed two millimeters. If deviations are found, then after the glue has cooled, the protrusions must be carefully cut off with a very sharp knife and the transition is invisible. If you get wide joints between the ends of the slabs - it's okay, then they will start to choke polyurethane foam... It is recommended to start the second and subsequent rows from the inner corners and move to the outer corners, it is more difficult to adjust the inner ones.

Step 8. To increase the fire resistance of buildings, it is necessary to make fire-prevention lintels between each floor. This requirement of the new legislation is aimed at improving the safety and fire resistance of buildings. Fireproof cuts are made of pressed mineral wool of the same thickness as the foam boards. The width of the scattering is at least twenty centimeters. Lintels are installed along the entire perimeter of buildings and at window and door openings.

Step 9. Finishing of window and door openings. Take off the dimensions of the slopes, cut the slabs along them. Do not rush, all joints should be as even as possible. It is better to use mineral wool as insulation, but the choice is yours. If finishing relatively massive, then take polystyrene. Insulation should cover the window and door frame, thereby reducing heat losses and improving the appearance of the facade wall.

Important. In the place where the window sill will be installed, the foam must be cut at an angle to ensure an unobstructed flow of water. One more thing. Slab seams should not be a continuation of the slopes. In these places, you need to use whole slabs and make appropriate cutouts in them for the size of the window. This method eliminates the accidental ingress of water into the gap between the facade wall and the foam. The minimum allowable distance from the seam to the slopes is 15 cm.

No glue is applied to the part of the slab adjacent to the window block. In the future, the gap is foamed with construction foam.

Seal all cracks with polyurethane foam; after it cools down, carefully cut off the remnants. Fill the voids to the full thickness of the boards with foam; it is recommended to moisten the surfaces before foaming.

Step 10. After the glue has completely hardened, increase the fixing strength with special dowels with large heads. They need to be installed in the places where the corners meet and in the center of each sheet. We have already mentioned that no technology recommends installing insulation boards without dowels, no most expensive glue gives such a secure fixation as dowels. For every square meter plates should be at least four pieces.

This completes the warming process, you can proceed to further finishing.

Insulation plastering

A very important process, not only the appearance of the facade wall, but also the durability of the entire finish depends on the quality of its execution. To increase the adhesion strength and protect the foam sheets from mechanical damage, you need to use a plastic mesh with a mesh size of about 5 mm. Before starting work, check the wall surface with a long rule or strip.

First you need to trim the corners. To strengthen the corners, metal perforated profiles... Cut strips of mesh about 30–40 cm wide. Apply glue to the corners of buildings of the same width, sink the reinforcing mesh into it, and flatten it. Place in the corners metallic profile and drown it in the solution again. Smooth the surface. Above, the corners will be closed with a new mesh already during the finishing of the facade walls.

Step 1. Apply a layer of mortar with a thickness of about 2–3 mm on the boards with a flat metal float or a wide spatula, level it immediately. There is no need to try very hard, the main thing is that it adheres well to the surface of the foam. The fiberglass mesh is easier to lay from top to bottom, the overlap must be made at least ten centimeters.

Important. Never apply the net to a dry wall, and then cover it with glue, as only outright hack-workers do this. The fact is that this method of finishing significantly reduces the strength of adhesion of materials, in the future, cracks will appear on the plaster. pay attention to finished houses, many of them have this drawback - the consequences of the work of unscrupulous craftsmen.

Step 2. Carefully level the mesh surface, the fibers should be completely covered with adhesive. Check the plane of the wall with a long strip and smooth out any irregularities. To do this, carefully place the flat rail against the wall and immediately remove it. The print of the trail will show the areas that need alignment.

The surface should be as flat as possible

Step 3. If the facade is to be painted, then a second layer of plaster should be applied, thickness within 2-3 mm. The main condition is the maximum alignment of the walls. The technology is the same, do not be discouraged if traces remain after the spatula, then they can be gently rubbed with an ordinary grater. If decorative plaster is chosen for the finishing, then it can be applied on the first layer. The same applies to the gluing of thin facade panels.

If the basement is insulated, then here you need to adhere to the recommended technologies to the maximum extent. The surface of the base must be plastered, before gluing the boards, soak it several times with a waterproofing solution. The fact is that concrete absorbs a lot of moisture, it will get on the glue. And the foam eliminates the possibility of evaporation, water accumulates under it, during freezing it expands and the plates will fall off, they will only hold on to the dowels. If the base is then lined with rather heavy finishing materials, then they deform the foam plates with their weight. In the best case, the surfaces will become uneven, in the worst case, you will have to remove materials and repeat the insulation of the house from the beginning.

In the absence of experience in performing such work, it is difficult to find out if the foam is stuck reliably. We recommend making a test gluing. Apply the solution around the perimeter and in the center, place the sheet against the front wall and align its position. Remove the styrofoam immediately and look at the glue marks on the wall. They should be uniform over the entire area, and the total area should be at least 40% of the sheet size. Such a simple test will make it possible in the future to be guided by the amount and location of glue application. In addition, you will feel how hard you should press the foam sheet against the facade wall.

Always start the row installation from the corner and from the whole slab. If the whole slab does not fit at the opposite corner, then it must be cut to size and use the penultimate one, and the last must be whole. In extreme cases, the area of ​​adhesion of the foam should be twice the area of ​​the part protruding beyond the corner of the house. Do not forget that the slab should protrude beyond the corner of the building to its thickness, in this place the insulation from the two walls should overlap. It is better to make a ledge with a margin, the excess will then be cut off. The solution must not get on the protruding part of the plate. The next rows of foam on the previous ones are installed in gearing. The tighter they fit, the more secure the fastening. In outer corners the largest load, and you cannot be insured with dowels, remember this and carefully perform all operations. Plates on the wall should be placed apart, it is forbidden to coincide on the wall of vertical seams.

Especially carefully check the position of the first row, it is he who sets the level for the entire wall. It is recommended to lay the next rows only after the glue is completely cured on the first one and fixing it with dowels.

Do not allow glue to get into the joints between the boards. Why? Cement mixtures have high thermal conductivity and form cold bridges. They will become visible on the façade walls as wet streaks. There are cases when such flaws cannot be hidden even with decorative plaster. The stripes are not constant, depending on climatic conditions, they appear or disappear.

The main task of the reinforcing mesh is to protect the foam from mechanical damage. Experienced builders know how to remove dried foam from quality glue without surface damage is impossible. This means that the role of the mesh in retaining the plaster is minimal. If the mass falls off, then repairs still cannot be avoided, the plaster will sag on the mesh. Hence the conclusion - reinforcement must be done on those sections of the facade wall that can be damaged by mechanical forces, as a rule, not higher than 1.5 m from the base. Anything above is at your personal discretion.

You can cut foam boards with a hacksaw with fine teeth... But this is not the best option. A much smoother cut is obtained after cutting with a heated nichrome wire... It can be bought in specialized stores, the length of the wire depends on the diameter. Stretch the wire at a convenient location and plug into a power outlet. Uneven cut edges after a hacksaw can be sanded with a special float.

Video - A device for cutting polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam has very low adhesion to adhesives. Before use, be sure to clean it on both sides with a float until shallow grooves appear.

Video - Preparing expanded polystyrene for gluing

Do not use this material as the main thermal insulation, it can only be used for finishing the base / plinth. And then only in those cases when the finishing of these surfaces is done with heavy materials.

Video - Wet facade installation technology

Is a generalized name for all finishing works in which liquid or viscous adhesive mixtures are used to fix the facing material.

In this case, it does not matter what kind of glue the installation was carried out - ready-made purchased or mixed immediately before use. The most common type of wet facade technique is decorative plaster, which recently is often done simultaneously with insulation. In this technology, the insulating material is also attached by means of adhesive solutions.

The main advantage of a wet facade is the minimized number of cold bridges and the removal of the dew point to the outside of the room, due to which condensation does not form inside the building.

This is not the only advantage of choosing a wet facade finish. What else does this technology have to offer? Let's consider:

1. Installation of a wet facade is not a difficult job. It can be made by any craftsman, even once who has worked with plaster.
2. The cost of materials for this technology is low. If you choose polystyrene as insulation and slightly bother over the plaster, then you can invest in 300-600 rubles per square meter of finishing.
3. Devices of a wet facade on insulation allow to reduce the thickness of the outer walls and save on construction.
4. This finish does not burden the facade walls, therefore it can be used for any type of foundation and wall material.
5. Since the insulation is mounted outside the building, it does not take up valuable centimeters from the living space.
6. This method is not limited to decorative solution facade: thanks to facade plaster, you can make the most different texture and the color of the walls, and if the plaster mixture is white, then you can additionally paint it using a wide variety of palette facade paints... The wet method also involves the use of ceramic tiles and artificial stone, the variations of which are difficult to count.

Installation features

The installation of a wet facade insulation system must take place under certain climatic conditions and with a careful selection of materials, otherwise neither the decoration nor the thermal insulation will be able to serve for a long time.

Be sure to consider that:

1. Wet finishing can only be done during the warm season. This is due to the fact that with cement mortars do not work at low temperatures. According to the norms, if the temperature drops to +5 and below, then the work is postponed "until better times", or an insulating canopy is created that is able to maintain the optimum temperature.
2. Rainy weather is also not suitable for installing the system. If you do not want to get a finish with spots and stains as a result, then it is better to transfer the insulation and cladding until clear sunny days appear.
3. Decorative plaster can last about 30 years if the climate in your area does not have dramatic changes in seasonal and daytime temperatures. The sharper the differences, the faster the decorative layer is destroyed.

This technology is so simple that it is almost impossible to make mistakes during installation. But the quality of the finish can be greatly affected by the wrong selection of materials.

Choice of plaster

Wet facade installation technologies of which can be used different types decorative plaster, which in one way or another correspond to the technological process:

• Mineral - budget plaster that has good vapor permeability and low moisture absorption. The price fluctuates due to the presence of additives in the composition of different prices, but still be at the level of available ones.
• Silicate - with good vapor permeability. Due to poor adhesion, it cannot be used without a special primer.
• Silicone: elasticity, vapor permeability, good adhesive make this plaster almost ideal if it were low cost.
• Acrylic: despite its excellent moisture resistance, this plaster has a significant disadvantage - low vapor permeability, which makes it unsuitable for some types of wet facade systems.

One of the most economical options effects of decorative plaster - bark beetle, but it is not as easy to apply as it seems at first glance.

Which insulation is better for technology

For a wet facade system, only tiled insulation can be used in order to end up with a reliable, uniform thermal insulation and decorative layer.

That is, he chooses among mineral wool and polystyrene foam heat insulators. When selecting, we pay attention to the following qualities of insulation for a wet facade:

• Water vapor permeability;
• Moisture absorption;
• Density.

Water vapor permeability should not be low. It is desirable that it gradually increase from the inside to the outside. Condensation can then be avoided right in the middle of the wet facade insulation system. Excess moisture has a destructive effect on thermal insulation and finishing. For the same reason, it is impossible to take insulation materials with high moisture absorption for work.

Therefore, among mineral wool slabs, we stop at basalt or diabase ones. Stone wool is quite moisture resistant and has excellent vapor permeability, but its density should not be lower than 90 kg / m2, otherwise there will be difficulties and the insulation may separate after a few years. The permissible density of mineral wool slabs for plastering is 180 kg / m2.

Attention! Thermal insulation of facades with mineral wool slabs "on wet" categorically prohibits the use of acrylic plasters.

Polyfoam and extruded polystyrene foam practically do not absorb moisture, and at low density they are also convenient for applying plasters. But they work preferably with, since it has at least some vapor permeability, and extruded polystyrene foam simply does not.

Have stone wool foams benefit not only in density, but also in thermal conductivity: expanded polystyrene plate 50 mm thick has the same thermal insulation qualities as a 110 mm thick cotton wool board.

There is and is a slight advantage of basalt fiber in terms of vapor permeability, then it is overshadowed by the difference in price between the first and second options. It is precisely because of the availability and good compliance with the wet facade technology that polystyrene is more often chosen for work.

Attention! Adhesive mixtures for the installation of mineral wool boards and foam plastic differ in composition. Therefore, for each insulation, a glue that is suitable for its characteristics is taken.

We do the finishing "wet" facade in stages

1. The device of a wet facade begins with the preparation of the facade surface: cleaning from dirt, leveling the walls and filling cracks with a putty or adhesive mixture, a primer.
2. This is followed by the installation of the basement profile with self-tapping screws on the upper level of the basement. The basement itself is rarely insulated. To highlight the basement of the building, cladding is made with artificial or natural stone.
3. Insulation is carried out from the bottom up, starting from the level of the basement profile. An adhesive solution is applied to the slabs: along the edges - in a continuous layer, in the middle - by the point method. Additional fastening is carried out with disc dowels after 3 days, given for the glue setting.
4. This is followed by a reinforcing layer: an adhesive solution is applied, into which a strong one is pressed. Special reinforcing corners are attached at the corners. This is the penultimate stage of finishing the wet facade. The technology requires a break of about 3–7 days for the reinforcing layer to set, after which you can start applying the decor.
5. Decorative plaster is applied strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions. If painting is required, then it is done in two layers, alternating vertical and horizontal application. In this case, the paint layer will come out uniform, without any transitions in tonality.

The video below shows the “wet facade” insulation technology.

If it is planned to install a heater under a tile or artificial stone, then waterproofing of this area is additionally carried out.