Hydrangea is a magnificent decoration of the garden. Its bushes with bright, globular inflorescences look great both in single plantings and in the vicinity of other plants. In order to breed more of such beauty on a site, you need to know how to properly organize reproduction various types hydrangeas using cuttings in spring... Information about this can be gleaned from the article, relevant photos and videos.

A beauty named Hortense

The hydrangea family includes quite a few varieties of shrubs, low trees and even lianas. In nature, they can be found in the south and east of Asia. In the garden and on the windowsills, the most common varieties of large-leaved hydrangea (garden). These are plants 1-1.5 m tall with rather large, opposite leaves. Hydrangea blooms in the garden from mid-summer to autumn. Inflorescences are very large, spherical.

There are two types of flowers: small fertile (bearing fruit), and large sterile (sterile). The former are located in the middle of the inflorescence, and the latter at the edges. Most hydrangeas are white in color.

Only large-leaved varieties bloom with red, blue, lilac, pink flowers.

Attention! The color of flowers of large-leaved hydrangea directly depends on the pH of the soil. On alkaline soils, the flowers are pink, on sour ones, in the same plant, they will be blue. This is due to the influence of the acidity index on the plant's ability to absorb more or less aluminum from the soil.

Hydrangea fruits are a capsule with 2 to 5 chambers filled with small seeds.

Reproduction of hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are successfully propagated in the following ways:

• seed;
• cuttings;
• layering;
• dividing the bush.

Growing in the first way is a rather lengthy process. Sow in containers with soil in the fall. Seedlings appear after 1.5 months, and, moreover, unevenly. Seedlings must dive twice. At the end of spring, the plants are regularly taken outside, thus hardening them. V open ground young hydrangeas are planted in the third year.

A very simple way of reproduction is by layering. In early summer, side shoots are deflected to the ground, pinned and covered with earth. The rooted twigs are separated from the mother plant after a year.

Dividing the bush is also very easy to propagate the plant. Many species produce root suckers that are easy to dig up and plant.

All types of hydrangeas reproduce very well by cuttings. Optimal term in spring for cuttings - the end of May. At this time, young tops of the shoots are already growing enough, which are used as cuttings.

Propagation by cuttings

The technology for propagating hydrangea by cuttings does not present any particular difficulties.

• Cut off the shoot site, preferably the upper part, with two or three pairs of leaves (internodes). The bottom pair is removed. The rest are cut in half.
• An oblique cut is made under the lower pair of leaves.
• For 12 hours, the cutting is placed in a container with a growth stimulator solution.

Advice. Before planting itself, it is better to additionally dust the lower node with a root stimulator powder. This will increase the percentage of rooting.

• With a slope of 45 °, cuttings are planted in wet sand.
• Spray plantings from a spray bottle clean water and arrange a greenhouse over them made of polyethylene or glass.
• In order for rooting to go well, containers with planted cuttings are placed in a shaded place. Water and ventilate periodically.

• After the appearance of the roots, after about a month, the cuttings are planted in pots with nutrient soil.
• For the winter, if it is not possible to grow a plant in a greenhouse, containers with hydrangeas should be dug in the garden and well covered.
• In the spring, after the cuttings begin to grow, you can plant them in the garden in a permanent place.

Germination of cuttings in a cuttings

With this method of germination, you will need to organize a special bed in a shaded area of ​​the garden, the so-called cuticle. To do this, they dig a narrow trench about 20 cm deep, the bottom of which is covered with drainage material. On top of it there is a nutritious soil. Then 1-2 cm of sand. Prepared by general principle cuttings, set arcs and cover with foil. The garden bed is watered 1-2 times a week. Ventilate periodically.

Attention! After signs of rooting appear, namely, the formation of new leaves at the top of the cutting, the polyethylene must be removed, otherwise the plants may rot.

For the winter, a cuticle with young hydrangeas needs to be well covered, for which a strong frame should be built. Lutrasil is placed on top of it, then spruce branches or other insulation. You should not cover with polyethylene - it does not allow air to pass through, as a result of which the plants may die. Successfully overwintered cuttings are planted in flower beds in spring.

Advice. In order for the bush to branch well in the future, the seedling must be cut off by 2/3 immediately after planting.

Reproduction of hydrangeas in spring using cuttings is a little troublesome. But in this way, you can breed more than a dozen plants on the site. different types, which will delight with lush flowering throughout the summer season.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings: video

Hydrangea (or hydrangea) is one of oldest plants on the ground. Archaeological evidence at different ends the globe give every reason to assert that hydrangea (or, perhaps, its distant ancestor) grew on Earth millions of years ago. And although its appearance is often associated with Japan, it was in America that the remains of a hydrangea, dating from 40 to 70 million years old, were found. By the way, it was from there that it was brought to Europe in the first half of the 17th century. According to the most reliable version, the name of the plant comes from the fusion of two distorted Greek words "hydro" (water) and "engion" (a vessel for liquid; this is the form of a hydrangea seed barrel). That is, in an approximate translation, the name of a flower means "a vessel with water."

Garden hydrangea

There are more than 80 natural species hydrangeas, which are mainly flower bushes. In addition to them, there are also cultivars bred by European gardeners on the basis of previously discovered ones. For example, the first natural variety that was introduced in Europe was the tree hydrangea. In the XX century, on its basis, the Hydrangea tree-like "Grandiflora" was derived. There are also varieties bred on the basis of large-leaved hydrangea and panicle hydrangea, the most popular species today.

Not immediately, but the hydrangea attracted the attention of European gardeners - in particular, its ability to bloom for several months in those periods when most flowers fade, and the ability to hold out until the first serious frosts. It was decided to improve these characteristics, and so the already mentioned varieties were born. Hydrangea is not difficult to grow and feels great both in the garden and indoors. flower pot... In some countries, such as Belgium, there have been family greenhouses since the middle of the 20th century, specializing in the cultivation and propagation of numerous varieties of this charming flower.

Both indoor and garden hydrangea reproduces in five ways:

1. seeds.
2. green cuttings.
3. layering.
4. offspring.
5. dividing the bush during transplantation.

All these methods are good and worthy of attention, but among gardeners, especially summer residents, it is believed that hydrangea propagates best by cuttings.

Practice shows that it is most effective to engage in cuttings in the summer, in July, when the hydrangea begins to appear in buds, but the buds are still preserved. Their presence is important because experts recommend cutting cuttings with leaves that have one or more buds. Only cuttings of young plants are suitable for reproduction, therefore, if the cuttings are carried out on an old bush, then you should first "rejuvenate" it by carrying out the appropriate pruning.

Cutting cuttings has several important nuances worth paying attention to:

1. they, like subsequent cultivation, should be carried out in a shaded area of ​​the garden.
2. cuttings from lateral shoots located in the illuminated lower part of the crown are most suitable for rooting. They are good because they have relatively large buds and are not susceptible to diseases at first, which significantly increases their chances of successful reproduction.
3. moisture must remain in the tissues of the cut shoots - it depends on this whether the rooting process will be successful. To preserve it, you should cut them off early in the morning.
4. finally, during work, they must not be allowed to dry out. To do this, the cut shoots should be immediately put into water and without hesitating to proceed to further cutting.

First, you need to remove the green top with a bud, and divide the rest into several parts so that two or three pairs of leaves remain on each. When this is done, the lower leaves can be removed, and the upper ones can be shortened in half and the cuttings are placed in a solution of a rooting stimulator so that leaves do not get into it. As a solution, you can choose any of the listed - root, heteroauxin or zircon, but you need to do it in strict accordance with the instructions, and after doing it, keep it for two hours in a dark place. That is, it is reasonable to start cutting shoots and cuttings from hydrangeas only after preparing the solution.

If it is not possible to purchase an industrial solution, you can prepare it yourself. The recipe is simple: one teaspoon of honey in a glass of water. Honey stimulates the formation of root thickening (callus) at the end of the cutting, from which the root system then grows.

Together with the solution, you should have prepared and pre-moistened soil in the ratio of peat and sand as 2: 1. When all this is done, you can plant the cuttings and cover them with jars. In dry weather, they should be watered daily directly over the banks - this is how not only the moisturizing, but also the refreshing function is performed.

It is advisable to spray uncovered cuttings twice a day.

The result of these efforts will be rooting of the cuttings in about a month and the appearance of new leaves on them from the very buds that you prudently left when cutting. When this happens, you can replace the cans with several layers of any material capable of sheltering and protecting young growth from early autumn frosts. For the winter, a slightly grown hydrangea should be thoroughly covered with fallen leaves, then a low frame should be installed and covered with a material that can protect young shoots from frost. If there is a coniferous forest in your area, then you can put spruce branches on top.

In the spring, the cuttings are transplanted to the garden bed for further growth. When they are already old enough, they can be transplanted again - already to a permanent place, where they will delight your eye with their beauty.

In addition to the garden, hydrangea can also be bred at home in the fall. They do it like this:

1. a 12-15 cm long stalk is cut. It is desirable from the shoot on which there was no flower in the current year.
2. the leaves of the two lower nodes are removed from it.
3. large leaves are cut in half.
4. the bottom of the cutting is dipped into rooting powder and then stuck to the depth of two internodes in a special disinfected soil, which is a mixture of wet loam with coarse sand. If there is no rooting agent, then it's not scary - you can stick it in without it.
5. it is permissible not to plant in one pot more than three cuttings.
6. then the flowerpot is placed in a clean transparent plastic bag, and three spacer sticks are stuck into the ground so that the leaves do not touch the walls of the bag. After that, the bag is tied. The purpose of such manipulations is to prevent air from entering it and create a hot, humid environment for the sprouts.
7. after that, the growth tracking process begins. Once a week, check the cuttings and potted soil and remove any fallen leaves. The package should be opened only when watering, which should be done in moderation and for a short time, so that the newly formed leaves have time to ventilate. Depending on the room temperature, the cuttings will germinate in two to three weeks. Then the package can be removed.

V winter time vases with growing plants standing on the windowsill can be wrapped in old newspapers to avoid the formation of ice. In the spring, when the frost ends, you can take the pots outside and, putting them in the shade, gradually accustom to open air... When they grow and get stronger, they can be transplanted into open ground. By autumn, the seedlings should grow into bushes that can survive the winter. The first winter for young plants is an ordeal, and it depends on your carefulness whether the hydrangea can survive it.

As for the room hydrangea, the florists believe that, oddly enough, it can be bred at home in the winter, in January or February. They do it like this:

1. to begin with, cuttings are cut from the basal shoots, but so that up to three internodes remain on a segment seven to eight centimeters long.
2. the lower leaves are removed, and the upper ones are divided depending on their size: by a third - if they are small; half - if large.
3. the lower cut is treated with a root stimulant, and the cuttings are planted in peat-sandy soil, where they are covered with jars to maintain a temperature of + 18-20 and air humidity of 75-80%. The cuttings should be kept in the light and the jars should be removed from them daily for airing. Watering should be done regularly, but in moderation - the soil should not dry out. Cuttings take root in about three to four weeks, after which they are planted in pots with a diameter of 7-9 cm.

By autumn, the cuttings will turn into multi-stem bushes of three or four shoots. If the indoor hydrangea undergoes cuttings in the spring, then by next winter you will have a plant with only one stem.

As you can see, the propagation of hydrangeas is not particularly difficult - neither at home, nor in the garden. The main thing that is required of you is attention and diligence, and she will repay you many times over.

Cutting is a method of plant propagation using cut lignified or non-lignified shoots. Dried, deformed, infected branches are not suitable for rooting. This method is ideal for propagation of many flowers and garden shrubs, as it does not cause much trouble and the result exceeds all expectations. The gardener has enough seedlings to decorate adjoining territory, window sills and a pleasant presentation to friends.

Hydrangea bush by the fence

Florists give a lot about the propagation of hydrangea by cuttings in spring and autumn practical recommendations... Each of them contains information about the selection and procurement timing. planting material, rules of cuttings of various types of hydrangeas.

The timing of cuttings directly depends on the planting material. For reproduction in late spring (from May to June), young growths are suitable - the tops of the shoots are no more than 10-15 cm long. A similar rule applies when. From late June to early July, shoots with a lignified base are selected for rooting. In summer they are better suited for planting. In the autumn, material with buds is used. It takes root better than others in substrates and gives an abundant amount of roots. On some cuts, flower ovaries can ripen and give abundant color even at the rooting stage.

The optimal time for harvesting is spring. It was at this time that the active movement of the juice along the trunks begins. Hydrangea shoots in spring receive the maximum amount nutrients... In this regard, the regenerative potential of the cuttings increases and the chances of rapid growth of the root system increase.

How to propagate hydrangea by cuttings: selection of planting material

When choosing cuttings of hydrangea, flower growers take several criteria as a guide:

It is quite easy to grow hydrangea from a cutting. For this, planting material is selected that meets the following characteristics:

• size no more than 15-20 cm in length;
• thickness no more than 7 mm;
• the presence of short internodes;
• pronounced growth buds;
• at least 4 developed kidneys.

Similar criteria are taken into account when selecting garden and indoor planting material. In this way, it will not be difficult to get several copies for which it is not at all difficult. Home bushes grow more restrained, unlike garden ones, but you can admire the flowering from the end of April.

Hydrangea cuttings processing and rooting methods

Hydrangeas of any kind can be grown from a cuttings: tree-like, petiolate, paniculate and even large-leaved. For this, it is necessary to properly prepare the planting material. A couple of days before the start of cutting houseplants put away in a shaded place, and garden shrubs hang with covering material. If a decorative one grows on your site, for which you know quite a lot, then it is worth collecting cuttings and with it in order to acquire new attractive bushes for landscaping.

After the hydrangea has settled in partial shade, they begin to cut the planting material. To work with the plant, use only a professional disinfected tool. A pruner is suitable either gardening scissors... For cuttings, shoots with several pairs of nodes are chosen. The twigs are separated from the trunk with an oblique cut.

Large leaves are cut by ½ to reduce the outflow of nutrients into the crown of the seedling.

The collection is placed for a couple of hours in solutions of biostimulants such as "Epin" or "Cyclops". If this is not possible, the sections are powdered with any root formation stimulant: "Kornevin", "Heteroduxin". Thanks to them, the procedure for growing from cuttings takes half the time. The stems are sprayed with a weak solution of manganese to give them flexibility and disinfection.

Before rooting hydrangeas with cuttings, you need to choose a suitable substrate or prepare an aqueous nutrient solution.

Modern growers practice the following methods of rooting hydrangeas:

Rooting a hydrangea in water is quite simple. Moisture is a favorable environment for the growth and development of filamentous processes. Thanks to this method, a novice florist will be able to track and control the process of formation of the root system. Water itself is not a nutrient medium for plants, so growth stimulants and liquid fungicides are added to it.

Sequencing:

After the plant has given several roots from 2 to 5 cm long, it is transplanted into slightly acidic soil.

Planting in a substrate

The following mixtures can be used as soil:

• planting cuttings in vermiculite and river sand in proportions 1: 1;
• perlite, garden soil, peat and river sand in proportions 1: 1: 1: 1;
• vermiculite, garden soil, peat, river sand in proportions 1: 1: 1: 1 with the addition of 1 g of citric acid.

Woolen ropes are laid out at the bottom of the landing boxes with a step of 5 cm. The ends of the ropes are lowered into containers with water, and one of the substrate options is poured into the boxes. Thanks to the wicks, the soil will be optimally moistened, and the rhizomes will not rot.

The bottom is wrapped in rags for better heating of the root buds and the speedy growth of the root system.

The workpieces are evenly placed over the entire area of ​​the box with an interval of 10-15 cm at an angle of 45 °. The cut should enter the ground by 2-3 cm. The container is placed on a lighted area. As needed, water is added to the container, and if swollen buds are found on the shoots, they are carried out.

At correct fit seedlings take root within a month, after which they are planted in individual peat or plastic pots. They can hold seedlings for up to 3 months before planting in open ground or moving to a larger pot for home growing.

Specificity of cuttings of various types of hydrangea

To propagate hydrangea as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to take into account its typological features. For example, cuttings of panicle hydrangea are carried out in the spring, and tree-like ones - in the fall.

When preparing large-leaved varieties for transplanting, their leaves are always cut in half, and when planting in open ground, the tops of the seedlings are cut 10 cm from the ground for better rooting and tillering. In the case of taking planting material from panicle hydrangea in the fall, woody shoots are chosen for cutting.

Video about 3 ways to grow new seedlings.

Growing from cuttings is a popular breeding method for hydrangeas. It does not require much time and effort, and the percentage of rooting shoots is relatively high. The most suitable time for propagation by cuttings is late spring. During cosmetic pruning of the bush, gardeners not only give it the desired shape, but also collect planting material. Over the summer, cuttings take root, undergo adaptation and become suitable for autumn planting in open ground, followed by wintering under cover.

- Bright balls-inflorescences of hydrangeas - decoration of any personal plot... Of course, I would like to see more and more such beauty around over time. And for this you need to learn how to properly propagate hydrangea, since there are several ways for this.

Hydrangea can be propagated by seeds, layering, dividing the bush. Today we will talk about the method, perhaps the simplest, but effective and reliable - the propagation of hydrangea by cuttings at home.

Autumn cuttings of hydrangea - pros, cons, features

The propagation method of cuttings can be used for hydrangeas both in spring and summer, and even in autumn - unlike many garden flowers and shrubs. The main difference between the seasons is that in spring and summer cuttings are green and semi-lignified, and in autumn they are lignified, covered with bark (although they take root a little worse). In addition, cuttings of hydrangeas in the fall involve the long-term cultivation of planting material at home in boxes or containers, followed by planting in open ground.

Since it's autumn in the yard, let's analyze this one, last option... Propagation by cuttings is equally suitable for all types of hydrangeas - tree, paniculate and large-leaved. The optimal time for autumn cuttings of any hydrangea is late September / early October.

What are the advantages of autumn cuttings of hydrangeas?

• you can use the branches of the shrub after its obligatory autumn pruning - usually they are burned or ended up in compost;
• in winter (as opposed to the stressful and busy spring-summer period for a gardener) there is time and energy to control the growth and development of seedlings;
• in the spring you get already grown, healthy and strong planting material.

Throughout the winter, plantings need careful care and only in the spring, after the threat of frost has passed, the rooted hydrangea seedlings are planted in the garden. Consider the process of cuttings in stages.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings in the fall - step by step instructions

When slicing hydrangea cuttings for propagation it is necessary to select healthy, strong shoots, without signs of disease, pests or damage. Of course, all work should be carried out clean, sharpened and disinfected. garden tool, and the procedure itself is recommended to be carried out in the morning hours or on a cloudy day - at this time, the branches and the air contain a lot of moisture, which is so necessary for this. It is strongly not recommended to leave hydrangea cuttings without moisture, even for a short time. Immediately after cutting, they must be placed in water.

For cutting, one-year non-flowering shoots of adult plants are chosen, from which the top is immediately removed - it is not suitable for grafting. The remaining "sticks" are cut into cuttings 10-15 cm long so that at least two or three nodes with buds remain on them. The lower cut is made under the first node perpendicular to the axis of the cutting. The upper straight cut is made about 1-2 cm from the third node. If the leaves have not yet fallen off, the lower ones are removed completely, leaving only the petioles, and the upper ones are cut by half with scissors.

How to grow a hydrangea from a cooked cuttings?

To begin with, you must prepare containers for planting - these can be containers and pots of small volume (up to 0.8 liters) from various materials(although experts strongly recommend clay containers that allow air to pass through well and evaporate excess moisture).

A 3-5 cm drainage layer is poured onto the bottom of the container, and soil prepared in advance and disinfected with hot steam is placed on it. It can be a well-mixed mixture of peat with coarse sand (2: 1); a mixture of turf, peat and sand (1: 3: 4); mixture garden land, coniferous litter and sand (1: 1: 1) with a small addition of humus; soil for growing azaleas.

OUR REFERENCE Some people prefer to plant cuttings of hydrangeas in the soil only after they have stood in clean, settled water for enough time so that they have roots 2-3 cm long. Others immediately place the cuttings in the ground.

Before planting, cuttings of hydrangea are treated with a root formation stimulator along the lower cut (for 2 hours in a solution of root, heteroauxin or zircon so that top leaves did not touch the water) and with a solution of potassium permanganate or brilliant green - along the top.

ON A NOTE! If you do not have a root formation stimulant, it can be replaced with a honey solution - 1 tsp. honey for 1 tbsp. water.

Cuttings are planted in a pre-moistened substrate at an angle of 60-70 degrees to a depth of 3-4 cm so that the upper buds with leaves do not touch the ground. The distance between the cuttings should be at least 5-7 cm so that their leaves do not touch each other.

For the fastest rooting, it is necessary to cover the planted cuttings of hydrangea glass jars, plastic bags or cut-off plastic bottles (if the shelter does not have a ventilation hole, it needs to be opened from time to time for ventilation). The containers are placed in a warm, shaded place.

V further care for rooting cuttings, they will be regularly watered 1-2 times a week. If you decide not to cover the seedlings with a transparent dome, they will have to be sprayed several times daily from a spray bottle to maintain the necessary moisture.

In the darkest winter months, it is advisable to supplement the growing hydrangea, thereby lengthening the daylight hours for the full development of plants.

Until you notice signs of rooting, it is not recommended to remove the cover from the cuttings. Swollen buds and then emerging leaves will become such signs. The rooting process of cuttings takes 25-30 days.

After the first leaves appear, the jar (package) can be removed and you can continue to care for the hydrangea like any young plant in a pot in winter - water and spray regularly at least twice a week. Do not forget to also monitor the temperature and light in the room. During this period, it is very important not to allow sharp drop temperatures (for example, when airing) - a small jump of 3-6 ° C will already be enough for young immature plants to die.

Front spring transplant hydrangea seedlings in open ground, they must be gradually hardened. For this, containers with seedlings, with the onset of the first heat, begin to be taken out daily to the street or to the balcony - at first for an hour, increasing this time every day. After 7-10 days of such hardening, young shoots can be planted on a site in a permanent place intended for them or on a specially prepared temporary bed so that they grow stronger.

In the future, caring for young hydrangea bushes in the garden will be no different from what you offer to adult plants.

As you can see propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings even a novice florist can do it. Try it and you will do grafting - you will definitely succeed!

Hydrangea - the main principles of growing

it ornamental plant perfect for decorating a lawn, walls of buildings or flower beds near the house. What types of hydrangeas are suitable for these purposes and how to grow them properly?

The genus hydrangea includes about 80 species. Most of them are shrubs with a height of 1-3 m.But there are also small trees, and also - lianas, climbing to a height of up to 30 m.

Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. Flowers at the end of the stem are collected in beautiful spherical inflorescences, scutes or panicles. The vast majority of species have white flowers. However, in some, for example, the large-leaved hydrangea, they can be blue, red, pink and lilac.

Popular types of hydrangea

Differs in high winter hardiness and looks very similar to lilac. Flowers in large (up to 30 cm) pyramidal panicles are initially white, and then turn pink. Bloom in August.

Have Bretschneider hydrangea when blooming, the flowers have a greenish tint, then they turn milky white, and at the end they turn purple. This hydrangea blooms in June-August. One of the most winter-hardy and drought-resistant species.

- liana shrub with suckers and aerial roots. Its flexible stems quickly braid the vertical support and are perfect for decorating walls, arbors. The flowers are whitish-green, collected in shields up to 20 cm in diameter.

Plant soil

Plants prefer fertile, slightly or moderately acidic soil (pH 5.5), consisting of leafy and soddy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1. On alkaline soil, hydrangea suffers from chlorosis. To prevent this from happening, every 10 days it is watered with a solution of salts containing iron (according to the instructions), or acetic acid (100 ml per 10 liters of water). If the soil is alkaline, it is acidified with high peat or a special acidifier (for example, Acid plus).

Planting hydrangeas

It is best to plant hydrangeas in open ground in the spring, but seedlings with a well-developed root system can be planted in early September. A pit measuring 50 × 50 cm is filled with loose fertile soil mixed with high-moor peat.

In no case should ash and lime be added to the mixture. planted in such a way that the root collar is at the level of the soil. Then watered abundantly, and trunk circle mulch with peat or sawdust.

Watering and feeding shrubs

Hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant. In summer, it needs to be watered abundantly (30-50 liters of water / adult bush) and regularly (1-2 times a week in dry sunny weather and once a week in cloudy weather). Mulched bushes can be watered less frequently.

For lush bloom the plant needs feeding. In the spring, at the beginning of growth, under each adult plant make 20-25 g of ammonium sulfate or urea, 30-40 g of superphosphate, 30-35 g of potassium sulfate. During the budding period - 60-80 g of superphosphate and 40-45 g of potassium sulfate, and at the end of summer - 15-20 kg of rotted manure or compost.

Preparing hydrangeas for wintering

It is not necessary to cover frost-resistant species and varieties of hydrangeas for the winter. It is enough to slightly huddle the base of the bush. All others stop watering at the beginning of September, remove the lower leaves so that the shoots begin to lignify.

Before freezing, all the leaves of the hydrangea are cut off, leaving only the upper ones (they protect the apical flower buds). Then the branches are tied with a rope, carefully bent to the ground and laid on wide board with nails driven in (a rope is tied to them).

Young bushes are also tied, laid on spruce branches and pressed with stones or bricks. Then they are covered with dry leaves and covered with lutrasil (spunbond). In the spring, the shelter is gradually removed and shoots are raised.

Often, visiting the plots of friends and relatives, I found very interesting flowers that I did not have. I myself have long wanted to buy many of them, but for one reason or another I could not. Probably many of my readers are familiar with this situation. Among them were large-leaved hydrangeas. Now I will talk about how easy it is to propagatelarge-leaved hydrangeasgreen and lignified cuttings.

I like the most propagate large-leaved hydrangea woody cuttings . Hydrangeas bloom the next year.

In the fall, cover large-leaved hydrangeas v usual terms but temporarily. Just wrap them up with several layers of 60 grade nonwovens (agrill, agrospan, spunbodle and the like).

In October, on a warm day (above zero), open them. Cut the cuttings 20-25 cm long, the lower cut is straight, the upper one is oblique (45 gr.), If there are still leaves, sprinkle them.

Tie the cuttings by grade, 10 pieces each, attach a name tag and put them in boxes of sand, which, place them in an anti-freeze subfloor. If there is no underground, it doesn't matter! Just lay the cuttings on the ground, on a layer of sand, 10 cm is enough.

From above, fill it with sand and insulate it with a non-woven material folded in several layers. The old, torn one will also come in handy, crumple it up and cover the cuttings. Cover with regular plastic wrap. Press down this whole structure with something heavy so that it does not get blown away by the wind.

In the spring, when the snow melts, take out the cuttings. Soak the lower ends (5-7 centimeters) in a solution of heteroauxin (for better rooting) and plant them in a cuttings or immediately in a container with a substrate, leaving one bud on top.

Substrate for rooting of large-leaved hydrangeas usually consists of two parts of peat and one part of sand. Peat is very good to replace with rotted coniferous litter, you can combine. In general, you can use any substrate, the main thing is that it is air-moisture-permeable, acidic (contains no alkali at all) and nutritious.

To create high air humidity (95-99%), containers must be closed (just put on the pot) a transparent plastic bag. To prevent it from pressing against the handle, insert a support for it, for example, wire bows, just a few sticks, etc.

If you use 0.5 liters for this. plastic glasses (I wrote about this in the article, then cover with a transparent plastic bottle from under the water, after cutting off the bottom and making vertical side cuts (this makes it easier to insert bottles into glasses) cuts.

Rooting should be done with diffused light. Hitting bright sun rays not acceptable. Rooting large-leaved hydrangeas occurs for about a month, after which, the package or plastic bottle must be removed. It is better to do this in cloudy weather, so that large-leaved hydrangeas gradually got used to dry air. If there is no such weather, then remove the package within a few days. First for a few minutes, then for a longer time, etc. Rooted in this way large-leaved hydrangeas can bloom already in the same year. As always, young plants should not be allowed to bloom in the first year, i.e. pinch the buds.

Green cuttings large-leaved hydrangeas cut with two or three internodes. The tops of the shoots take root especially well. The bottom pair of leaves is cut off. The middle one is shortened by half, the upper ones are left entirely.

Large-leaved hydrangeas, propagated by green cuttings, inferior in development to those obtained during propagation by lignified cuttings.

Of course, this is an amateur option. rooting large-leaved hydrangeas but very effective. For a small nursery, within a few tens or hundreds of plants, it is not worth buying a fogging installation, it is too expensive, although you can make it yourself, very cheap!

This experience can be very useful in the recent political situation. Russia's retaliatory sanctions can and should extend to the import of planting material for flowers and plants from Europe. It is not clear what we are paying for in currency? We are replacing irreplaceable natural resources with something that can be easily done by ourselves. It's high time to engage in such a profitable business!

If you have questions about rooting large-leaved hydrangeas, ask them.

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