Strawberries are planted in any of the warm seasons of the year. During spring planting, greenhouses can be used to get an earlier harvest. Summer planting requires suitable weather conditions, because the heat can destroy young seedlings. Planting strawberries in the fall has its advantages.

The main advantages of the autumn landing

If you missed the spring and summer time in order to place a strawberry garden on a summer cottage, it does not matter. After all, the autumn season is perfect for creating optimal conditions for the adaptation and growth of seedlings.

• Firstly, from the beginning of September to mid-October there are still good weather days, and at night there is still no frost. And these are the most suitable conditions for the rooting of young outlets.
• Secondly, the strawberries planted in September will begin to bear fruit as early as next spring.
• Thirdly, the scheme for planting strawberries in the fall has several options available. Everyone can choose the most profitable way.
• Fourth, the grower gets the opportunity to grow good harvest berries with less effort.

Outdoor carpet planting technology

The simplest scheme for planting strawberries in open ground for summer residents who cannot spend a lot of time on the site is carpet. Purchased or own seedlings are densely planted in a suitable area in a checkerboard pattern. After wintering, young plants will grow, and after flowering, they will begin to release a mustache. They are not taken away, not guided, but allowed to grow freely. This is the essence of the method. You need to let the strawberry garden grow in the allocated area, fill the space between the bushes. Due to the densely overgrown surface near the roots, a special microclimate is formed. The moisture evaporates gradually, that is, the gardener can water less often. Weeds have less room to grow from densely intertwined shoots. This means that you can weed the garden bed less often. The only drawback that this landing pattern conceals garden strawberry, lies in the fact that the berries become smaller in a couple of years.

Applying the string method

The most suitable time to use this method is from the end of August to the second decade of September. Better to choose a cloudy rainy day or evening time on a normal day. The line diagram of strawberry planting assumes an arrangement of 20 sq. m. 120 - 140 seedlings. They are placed in one or two lines. In this case, the distance between the sockets is left at 15 cm, and between the rows - up to 70 cm.If the two-line method is used, then the distance between the lines is measured by 30 cm.

Recommendation: the scheme for planting strawberries in open ground will give good results when using sterile garden tools, soil disinfection, as well as when using high-quality planting material.

For disembarkation, it is recommended to use a cord, then the lines will come out even. The cord is pulled from one peg to another, which are placed on opposite edges of the bed. Next, markup is carried out using a tape measure. In the designated places, make small holes with a hand spatula or hoe. The depth of the hole should correspond to the size of the seedling roots. The roots should not twist. Before planting, the hole is well watered with water, crushed with humus. After that, one seedling is placed in it, covered with soil and tightly squeezed from all sides.

Important! The plant's point of growth should be flush with the ground. If the soil covers the young leaves, the plant will start to rot and die. If the soil is lower than necessary, the strawberries will freeze over the winter.

How to prepare seedlings for autumn planting

In order for the seedlings to take up well, the following steps must be taken before planting:

• carry out a visual inspection of the entire batch, remove specimens with rotten, damaged or weak roots, sluggish or rotten leaves;
• cut the roots of the selected seedlings to a length of 7 cm;
• work should be carried out in the shade, and boxes with seedlings should not be kept under the sun so that it does not wither.

Nesting method

Seedlings prepared in this way can be planted in the form of nests. In this case the scheme is suitable planting strawberries in autumn. That is, it is necessary to choose a time for work with optimal weather conditions no later than the second half of September. To implement the nesting method, you will need a large area. On it, the holes are placed as follows: they make the main one in the center, and 6 more pieces are dug around it at a distance of 7 cm. One bush is planted in them (less often two). The resulting hexagon will be the base of the row. Several more of the same hexagons are placed in it at a distance of 25 cm.In order to make the next row, about 40 cm recede from the first.The scheme of planting strawberries by the nesting method guarantees high yields (subject to the availability of high-quality seedlings).

Vertical breeding technology

Another high-yielding technology that allows you to pick ripe berries even under the condition of heavy, barren soil on the site. However, a certain pattern must be used. Planting strawberries in August - September will serve as the basis for a strong, healthy plantation during the spring awakening. To organize a vertical ridge you will need special equipment... This can be a homemade pyramid, factory-made tiered pots, tight bags, or any suitable container. They are placed near the walls, lining up in several tiers. If the soil on the site is poor, use imported or purchased fertile soil. They fill containers and plant several plants at a distance of 7 cm from each other. In winter, containers can be placed in a heated greenhouse. If this is not possible, then the tiers are dismantled. All containers are placed on the ground and covered with foliage, peat or agrofibre for the winter. In the spring, the vertical structures are opened and reassembled. You will need to water the berry regularly, preferably with warm water. You will also need to make liquid fertilizers, weed the beds and remove the mustache.

Planting scheme for strawberries under agrofibre

Gardeners have long appreciated the benefits of agrofibre. Technologies with its use can greatly simplify the process of growing plants. During the autumn planting of strawberries according to any of the proposed schemes, the site is covered with agrofibre for the winter. In the spring, they do not take it off immediately after the snow melts, but wait until warm weather sets in and there is no frost at night. During this time, well-rooted seedlings from the fall will awaken and begin to grow in the conditions of the microclimate created by the covering material. If you use small greenhouses in the form of tunnels, the result will be even better.

Which varieties are suitable for autumn cultivation?

Often, summer residents believe in bright advertisements for super-varieties of strawberries (very sweet, juicy, large, fruitful, etc.) and buy expensive varietal material that dies at home and does not give the promised results. The fact is that most often it is intended for industrial cultivation. It needs special conditions, constant temperature and humidity. These include, for example, Gigantella, Albion, Queen Elizabeth 2.

For the conditions of an ordinary garden, it is better to choose proven varieties that are able to withstand the proposed temperature regime, are resistant to common diseases and have excellent taste. Among the early ones, Zarya, Julia, Olvia, Hanni have established themselves. Mid-season - Lord strawberry. The planting pattern can be lowercase on ridges, and grows well in hydroponics. We also recommend the varieties Elephant and Festivalnaya. The whole summer can be harvested with remontant varieties- Vima Rina or Albion.

Any proposed scheme for planting strawberries is effective, judging by the reviews of gardeners. The pros and cons of each technique are obvious, so it is not difficult to choose the most suitable one. However, one should not hope that large yields will depend only on the correct planting according to a certain method. Juicy and ripe, the berry will grow with good care.

Strawberry (garden strawberry) is the most popular berry crop. It is a perennial plant in the form of a compact herbaceous bush. The rhizome is fibrous, the height of the stems is 5-40 cm. The leaf plates are large, divided into 3 lobes, the edges are jagged.

Strawberries have three types of shoots: mustaches, rosettes (horns), peduncles. Whiskers are long lashes on which sprouts with roots appear. Whiskers of the 1st and 2nd order are most suitable for breeding. Horns are formed in the lateral part of the shoot from the vegetative buds. They have a reddish apical bud (heart) and the larger it is, the greater the yield the bush will give in the first year.

Where is the best way to plant strawberries and how to care for them

Planting conditions for strawberries

Strawberries are quite cold hardy. Withstands a drop in temperature to -8-12 ° C on bare ground, and under a snow cover it can withstand frost of -35 ° C. Buds will survive successfully spring frosts up to -4-5 ° C, the cold resistance of the opened rims is lower: up to -2 ° C. Flowering is uneven, so there is no danger of completely losing the crop.

The plant is light-requiring, but it can tolerate slight shading. Can be grown under the canopy of young trees when the lighting is slightly diffused. In the dense shade, the berries are small, poorly ripe or completely absent.

How to water

Strawberries are hygrophilous. It will normally tolerate temporary flooding, but do not overmoisten the soil with watering, especially during the fruiting period: otherwise, gray rot will rapidly develop, capable of destroying the entire crop. Maintain optimum moisture levels when the soil is always only slightly damp. From drying out of the soil, the fruiting and quality of berries decreases, the growth rate slows down.

Seat selection

For growing strawberries, a flat, well-lit area without strong wind is best suited. A groundwater table of at least 70 cm is permissible. Lowlands are not suitable for planting - cold air accumulates there, the fruits lag behind in ripening by 8-12 days. When planted on steep slopes, melt water washes out the soil, the roots of strawberries are exposed.

Priming

Loose soil is required. Be sure to rid her of weeds, especially malicious ones (thistle, willow, bindweed, wheatgrass, sow thistle). Grows best on loamy soils. In sandy soil will suffer from a lack of moisture and nutrients.

Precursors of strawberries when planting in the country

It is recommended to change the landing site every 4 years. Strawberries will grow well in the area where they were previously cultivated: legumes, garlic, herbs (dill, parsley, cilantro, lettuce, basil), root vegetables (beets, carrots), any kind of cabbage, radish, radish, turnip, as well as bulbous flowers, etc. marigold.

Poor predecessors are tomatoes, potatoes, pumpkin plants (squash, pumpkin, cucumber, watermelon, melon).

Planting dates for strawberries

When to plant strawberry seedlings in the ground

The quality and quantity of the first harvest depends on the planting time. Main terms: spring, summer (its second half), autumn.

Planting strawberries outdoors in spring: when to plant?

• In the conditions of the middle and northern lane, carry out spring planting in early-mid May, in the south - from mid to late April.
• More early landing gives a larger harvest the next year. During the growing season, the bushes will get stronger, they will have time to lay a lot of flower buds.
• The disadvantage of spring planting is the lack of quality planting material. It can only be the rosettes (horns) of last year's bushes or the very last mustache (5-8 order) of the last year.
• Old outlets will not yield crops, even under ideal growing conditions. This type of mustache will have to grow throughout the year.
• However, with spring planting the most bountiful harvest is expected next year.

Planting strawberries outdoors in summer

Summer planting of strawberries is no less popular with gardeners. Proceed to it when the mustache of the 1st and 2nd order appears on the bushes. Before the onset of winter, the seedlings will have time to form a powerful root system, and they will successfully overwinter.

Planting strawberries in the fall in open ground

• Autumn planting (September-October) - not the most the best way in terms of yield next season. The bushes will be able to root normally, but the number of flower buds will be small.
• There is a risk of freezing of seedlings. In the northern regions, you can lose half of the bushes.
• Autumn planting is good for laying a brood plantation and obtaining planting material for the next year - strawberries will give a large number of whiskers. To stimulate their formation, peduncles should be removed. This way you will have a powerful whisker that produces the very best plants.

Please note that even with optimal planting times, medium and late varieties will give twice the harvest than the early ones.

How to choose strawberry seedlings and prepare them before planting

• Choose fully formed bushes with 3-5 leaflets spread out. They should not be stained, damaged, wrinkled.
• Squat rosettes with large central buds are of the highest quality. Further development and abundant fruiting depends on the size of the heart. If the petioles are long, elongated, and the heart is green, in the first year the harvest will be small or there will be no berries at all. If the heart is red, with a diameter of more than 2 cm, it is possible to get about 200 g of berries from a bush.
• Weak plants are not only less productive, but also more susceptible to diseases and pests. It is better to refuse to buy them than to purchase a known problematic copy.
• If the seedlings are already in bloom, take the bushes with the largest flowers. Do not use seedlings with very small flowers or no buds at all.

To start a new plantation, it is advisable to choose 3-4 varieties, take 3-5 seedlings of each of them for a sample and check in the conditions of your site.

Check the roots

Healthy strawberry seedlings with an open root system photo

When choosing seedlings with an open root system, it is necessary to examine the roots: their length should be at least 5 cm, they should be light. Dark roots indicate a diseased plant. The place of the heart should be thin - the larger its diameter, the older the bush from which the process is separated. The berries in this case will be small.

Prevention of diseases before planting strawberries

The seedlings brought from the nursery must be disinfected. Warm up the water to 50 ° С, immerse the plant completely under water for 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure after 30-40 minutes. Most pests will die in hot water... For the prevention of diseases for 5-7 minutes, dip in a solution of the following composition: for 10 liters of water 1 tsp. copper sulfate and 3 tbsp. table salt.

Preparing the soil for planting strawberries

Bookmarking the beds

How is the preparation of the bed for planting strawberries going? Form the plantation gradually. It is best to place several rows on one site. of different ages... Plant a new bed every year. Dig up old strawberries to make room for young bushes.

For the earth to settle and settle, start preparing the beds 1-2 months before planting. If the soil is poorly fertile, dig, going deeper by 18-20 cm, dig up chernozems to a depth of 25-30 cm.

Preparing the land for planting strawberries

Strawberries do not tolerate a high concentration of salts in the soil - fertilizers should be applied immediately when preparing the garden, and not when planting. Place them shallow so they can take effect.

Apply fertilizers depending on the composition of the soil:

• Loam: for each m², 1 bucket of compost, completely rotted manure or peat, in the absence of organic matter - 2 tbsp. nitrophosphate.
• Sandy soils: 2-3 buckets of compost, manure, humus or turf for each m².
• Heavy clay soils : 2-3 buckets of manure or compost and 3-4 buckets of sand for the same area.
• Mix the fertilizers thoroughly with the soil.

Soil with a high acid reaction must be limed. Lime or dolomite flour is applied 2-3 years before the establishment of the future plantation, 3-4 kg for each m². Instead, wood ash can be added immediately under the digging (2-3 glasses per 1 m²).

Soils with an alkaline reaction, on the contrary, need to be acidified. For each m², add 10 kg of peat, rotted needles or sawdust. To slightly acidify the soil, add ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate.

How to prepare the soil for planting strawberries, look at the video:

Planting schemes for strawberries in the open field

Strawberry planting patterns

There are many different planting patterns for strawberries. The most cost-effective planting schemes have shown themselves in double rows with a small distance between bushes in double rows and wide row spacings.

Sealed circuit 20x20x60 or 15x15x60

The denser the planting, the higher the yield. This method of planting involves placing bushes in double rows according to the 20x20x60 scheme - between two rows and in a row between bushes the distance is 20 cm, the row spacing between double rows is 60 cm. Do not compact the row spacing. Thin strawberries after harvest: dig out every second bush and plant on a separate bed, placing them according to the 40x40x60 pattern. For fruiting bushes, high compaction is not advisable.

The dense planting pattern is only suitable for seedlings. Plant early strawberry varieties at a distance of 15 cm between individual specimens, adhere to a distance between double rows of 60 cm. After harvest, also thin out, leaving a distance of 30 cm between the bushes.

Planting scheme for strawberries 30x30x60 cm

Suitable for early strawberries. With a free arrangement in the garden (the first year is an exception), strawberries will give a higher yield. When landing different varieties it is advisable to leave a distance between the double rows of about 80 cm so that the antennae do not get tangled.

Planting scheme for strawberries 40x40x60

Suitable for mid and late varieties that form large, powerful rosettes.

Strawberry planting scheme 40x40x70

• Plant mid-season and late varieties on highly fertile soils (chernozems) according to the 40x70 scheme.
• Land on a cloudy day or in the evening. When planted in hot weather, the leaves will intensively evaporate moisture, the plant will wilt strongly, which negatively affects further development.
• If you plant flowering strawberries in the spring, it is better to remove the peduncles - the main thing in the first year is rooting.

How to plant strawberry seedlings: planting technique

How to plant strawberries diagram

• Place the heart at ground level. Deepening will lead to decay, and if raised, the seedling will dry out.
• Please note that fertilizers cannot be applied when planting strawberries directly.

When planting, the roots of the strawberry must be well spread.

• Spread the roots. If they are longer than 7 cm, trim to leave at least 5 cm in length.
• Fill a mound, distribute the roots evenly over it and sprinkle with moist soil, water abundantly.
• You can immediately spill the planting holes with water - plant the bushes directly into the water, sprinkle with earth, in this case do not water additionally.

Planting strawberries on covering material or agrofiber

Planting strawberries on black covering material photo

Covering material (mulching black agrofibre, lutarsil, dark spunbond) is spread on the beds in a continuous layer 1-1.2 m wide. It must be fixed along the edges by pressing it with boards, bricks or sprinkling it with earth.

Scheme of planting strawberries on a covering material with drip irrigation

Make round cuts on the surface to fit the size of the root system of the seedlings - there will be holes there. If making cruciform slots, make them larger so that they can be folded inward and the edges of the spunbond do not bulge outward.

Growing strawberries on white agrofibre photo

Make the beds high and slightly sloping: water should drain and fall into the ground at the edges. In this way, grow plantings in double rows with wide row spacings.

The advantages of this planting method are:

• The dark surface heats up more, the soil warms up deeper and faster, which contributes to early and abundant yields (in the southern regions, on the contrary, they use white agrofibre so that the soil does not overheat);
• Gray rot practically does not damage the berries;
• Weed growth is suppressed.

However, with this method of growing strawberries, it is necessary to lay a special irrigation system. The method is economically justified for large farms. Renew plantings every 4 years: over time, the berries become smaller, become sour.

Disadvantages:

• It is difficult to water at the root: the slots are small, it is problematic to introduce water;
• Roots can rot or lack moisture.
• Perennial weeds easily make their way through the strawberry bushes, so all perennial weeds should be removed first.

How easy it is to plant strawberries on black covering material, see the video:

Video about the main mistakes when planting strawberries on black covering material:

How to properly plant strawberries in August to get an excellent harvest next year? We have collected in one article the most simple recommendations, interesting tips and secrets that guarantee you to enjoy the delicious and aromatic fruits of this amazing berry.

Strawberries grown on a personal plot bring a lot of pleasant emotions to the gardener. But harvesting this berry is not easy at all. Only knowing the secrets of planting and caring for it can you grow delicious strawberries. New bushes of this berry take root in late summer or autumn. Consider the sequence of agrotechnical techniques before planting seedlings of this culture and methods of planting berry bushes.

How to choose and buy strawberries for planting

To get healthy strawberry bushes that grow well without disease and produce a large harvest sweet berries, it is necessary to plant high-quality seedlings. How to choose the right material for planting? Experts recommend buying annual seedlings with a closed root system (in cups). They should have fibrous roots at least 5 cm long and no more than three well-developed leaves.

Elite varieties of strawberries give a good harvest. It will be good if you purchase and plant such seedlings on your personal plot. For the cultivation of this culture, gardeners use frigo seedlings, which are carefully selected from the bushes of berries available in the garden, then dug out late autumn and is stored in bags at a slight negative temperature.

Examine the seedlings, there should be no signs of disease on the leaves and stems

Where is the best place to buy strawberry seedlings? If you buy it in the markets from private procurers, then there is a possibility that the purchased plant will be infected with diseases and pests. It is best to take healthy seedlings obtained from sterile plants grown according to a special test tube technique. Such seedlings are sold large producers... In specialized nurseries, strawberry seedlings are sold from late July to early August.

The earlier at the end of summer you plant the bushes of this plant, the more likely it is that flower buds will be laid on them, and the first harvest will be next year. When choosing seedlings, take a good look at the seedlings. If you see pale, wrinkled leaves on the plants, or there are some dots on them, it is better not to buy such material. These signs indicate poor quality of seedlings, infection with diseases / pests. Buy strawberry seedlings with the following traits:

• - leaves of seedlings leathery / with pubescence, have a rich healthy shiny, green color;
• - the sapling's horn is at least 0.7 cm thick;
• - the length of the roots of open seedlings is more than 7 cm;
• - seedlings have no damage to roots, leaves;
• - the core of the bush is strong, elastic, has a rich green color;
• - for seedlings in cups or cassettes, the roots should entangle the entire volume of the container in which they are located;
• - the peat pot should have roots that have pierced it through and look outward;

Soil preparation

Planting strawberries is best at the end of the summer season in August. It is advisable to do this in sunny places and on the southwestern slopes with a slope of 2-3 degrees. It is not advisable to use plots in lowlands or a closed type for growing this plant. The acidity of the soil for planting strawberry seedlings should not exceed 5.5-6.5 pH. Bushes of berries will give a good harvest if they are planted on podzolized chernozem soils or on dark gray forest soil, which has a medium or light composition.

The berry will also bear fruit well on sod-podzolic, sandy loam soils. It is not advisable to plant strawberries where groundwater is close to the surface. Before planting seedlings in a certain area, it is necessary to first examine it for the presence of pests, and if they are detected, destroy insects with special means. The land for planting strawberries is first cleared of weeds. Then, 2 weeks before planting the seedlings, prepare the soil for planting seedlings. 2-3 buckets of organic matter per 1 sq.m. are scattered over the territory of the site.

After what crops to plant: strawberry predecessors

When choosing a site for planting strawberries, consider which plant has grown on it before. You should not use the land for growing this delicious berries, if plants from the Asteraceae family, buttercups or tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, sunflowers have recently grown on it. So after what can you plant strawberries? And can this plant be planted after the onion? The berry harvest will be good if the seedlings are planted in the soil where they previously grew:

• peas;
• beans;
• radish;
• garlic;
• parsley;
• radish;
• mustard;
• Dill;
• salad;
• oats;

After planting, the strawberries need to be watered abundantly.

At what distance to root a berry: planting scheme with a photo

When planting seedlings, do not bury them too deep in the ground, otherwise the center point or heart of the bush will be below the ground level, which will lead to the death of the plant. It is also impossible to allow a shallow planting of strawberries. This is fraught with drying out of the heart and the death of the bush. The seedling will root well and will grow if planted so that the center point of the seedling protrudes slightly above the soil surface.

• When planting seedlings in a hole, you need to make a mound in it and put a plant on it.
• The roots should not be bent, they should smoothly descend along the tubercle. If they are too long, be sure to trim them off a little.
• After planting seedlings, the plant must be watered abundantly and a solution of HB 101-93 is added under each seedling, diluting 93 drops of this substance in 1 liter of water.
• Then young bushes are mulched with compost (5-6 cm) or straw, hay, sawdust (10 cm) and covered with a special material to create a greenhouse effect for better rooting of seedlings.

In the future, the bushes are weeded regularly and the mustache is removed. If the weather is dry after planting the seedlings, you need to water the crop so that the land on the site is moist. During this period, flower buds are laid, on which the berry harvest depends on the next year. There are several schemes for planting strawberries:

• - one-line. This is planting seedlings in one row. The distance between the bushes of plants should be 15-20 cm, and between the rows - 60-70 cm;
• - two-line. This is a planting with ribbons consisting of 2 rows of bushes. Distance between ribbons - 60-70 cm, rows - 30 cm, bushes - 15-20 cm;
• - natural agricultural technology. With this scheme, seedlings are planted every 50 cm in one row on beds 50 cm wide.The distance between the rows is 50 cm.

How to fertilize the soil before planting

2 weeks before planting seedlings, it is advisable to add 40 g of double superphosphate, up to 20 g of potassium fertilizers (wood ash or potassium sulfate) to the soil (for each 1 sq. M.). It is advisable to add organic matter to the holes for planting seedling bushes. To do this, dig a hole 25x25x25 cm under each seedling and fill it with a mixture consisting of 1 bucket of soil from the site, 1 bucket of compost, 1 bucket of rotted horse manure, 2 glasses of ash.

Planting garden strawberries with a mustache in open ground

One of the ways to get strawberry seedlings is to root the whiskers from a specially prepared uterine bush of this culture. On such shoots, rosettes and their own root system are formed:

• - 2 weeks before transplanting, separate the young seedling from the rooting of the mustache from the adult plant with scissors. From that time on, he will switch to his own food;
• - when the strawberry rosettes are ripe, transplant them to a permanent place. When to plant strawberries with a mustache? It is better to start this process on time from the end of July to the end of August. This should be done on a cloudy day or in the evening, so that the root system of the plant is well adapted to the new place;
• - Divide the area for planting strawberries into rows with a distance of 1 m between them. Plant strawberries at a distance of 20-30 cm between the bushes;
• - make the depth of the pit for strawberry seedlings 15 cm;
• - the core of the socket after planting must be at the level of the soil. It is important not to deepen it and not leave it above the ground, so that the bush does not die;

How to properly plant under a black film

To obtain a large harvest of strawberries, gardeners use the method of planting a plant under a black film or agrofibre. These devices cover the entire site. Holes are made in the film for planting berry bushes. Black material does not let through to the ground sunlight, and under it weeds and other, undesirable in this area, plants do not grow. To implement this landing method, you need:

• purchase agrofibre or black film, an area equal to the size of the plot of the future strawberry plantation;
• then lay the mulching material on the ground, laying its corners in the pits along the perimeter and filling it with soil;
• then start the process of planting seedlings. It is advisable to plant them in a checkerboard pattern with a distance between the bushes of 25-30 cm;
• on the film, first mark the places for the holes and make small perpendicular cuts in them;
• then dig holes with your hands through each hole and plant the seedlings;
• the holes in the film should not be large, so as not to provoke the growth of weeds;

What fertilizer to use or what to feed in the fall

Plants planted in August must be fertilized. This is done using different feedings. It is useful to treat strawberries with a solution of 30 g of urea and 10 liters of water. Foliar dressing produced by boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. Treated bushes will bring more harvest in summer, and the quality of the berries will be higher than on plants not fertilized with these substances. To make a feeding mixture, prepare the following ingredients:

• - molybdenum - 2 g;
• - manganese - 50 g;
• - boric acid- 15 g;
• - water - 15 liters.

Strawberry care in the fall includes preparing the plant for winter. The bushes of this culture are covered with straw, peat, compost, fallen leaves or corn stalks. These natural substances not only keep plants from cold in winter, but also fertilize the soil. As a mulch for bushes, special materials are also used - spunbond, lutrasil. The covered strawberries will be protected from frost and will yield a good harvest next year. Further agrotechnical work with strawberries begins in April.

You can plant strawberries using a clay talker.

Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries next to each other

In some gardeners' reviews, there is a deep conviction that it is impossible to plant different varieties of strawberries together. So they are pollinated among themselves, and then the quality of the berries on their bushes becomes worse. But experts argue that the reason for the deterioration of the yield in such cases is not that there is cross-pollination, but because the plant is degenerating.

If you delve a little into botany, then you can remember that when crops are pollinated, double fertilization occurs. As a result of this process, seeds are obtained that contain the genetic information from the pollinator plant. However, this is not the case with strawberries, because its fruit is not exactly what botany understands by this term.

A juicy red berry on a bush of this culture is an overgrown receptacle, which is part of the mother plant and carries only its genetic characteristics. Therefore, the culture, the pollen of which is used to pollinate the strawberry flowers, does not affect the quality of the berries. This means that planting different varieties nearby is not prohibited. But when propagating a plant with a mustache, it is important not to confuse which variety of strawberries the daughter outlet belongs to.

Marina Stoletova, source

Strawberries have an unforgettable taste and aroma, thanks to which they are loved by both adults and children. This berry is very popular, but its price is quite high, and it is much more profitable to grow strawberries on your own right at the summer cottage.

Is it possible to grow strawberries in the country?

Growing strawberries on your own in a summer cottage is a very painstaking, but at the same time, simple task. If all the rules are correctly followed, the plant will actively bear fruit and bring a good harvest.

The complexity of cultivation lies in the fact that when cultivating strawberries, you will have to spend a lot of energy on performing such everyday actions as watering and weeding.

It is possible to grow this berry in the open ground in the garden both in the southern and northern latitudes and in Siberia. The key to success in this case will be correct selection varieties, which must be adapted to the specific location. The modern market can offer a huge number of types of strawberries. They all differ from each other according to criteria such as climatic resistance, ripening time, fruit size and taste, etc.

When planning to plant strawberries in your country house, you also need to make sure that it feels comfortable. For this, the berries are placed in light, sandy loam or loamy soil.

The key to a good harvest is the correct selection of the variety.

Popular species and good varieties for Siberia

It is best for beginners to focus their attention on famous varieties that have already established themselves:

1. Daryonka- this early ripe variety boasts immunity to fungal diseases and pests. Also, such a plant tolerates winter temperatures well and brings a large amount of harvest. Berries of medium size (15-20 grams) have a blunt cone shape. The taste is pleasant, sweet and sour;
2. Kama- this variety has excellent frost and drought resistance. There is a susceptibility to infection with brown or white spot. Large fruits, weighing 25-35 grams, are made in the form of a rounded rhombus, characterized by the presence of ribbing. When fully ripe, the skin takes on a maroon hue. The pulp is juicy, tender and sweet and sour;
3. Masha- a variety of Russian selection is perfectly adapted to the conditions middle lane... The plant is not afraid of diseases and recurrent frosts, but at the same time it brings a good harvest. The leaves on the bushes are large, and the flower stalks are powerful and stable. The oblong, bright red berries have a pleasant taste and strawberry aroma;
4. Queen Elizabeth- a feature of the remontant variety will be its large and very sweet fruits. The plant can tolerate well very coldy, return frosts, attacks of insects and diseases. The yield is always on high level... The main disadvantage of the variety will be that it does not form a mustache, so it will have to be propagated with the help of seeds.

Correct planting in a garden in the open field - step by step instructions

When planting strawberries in a summer cottage, first of all, it is necessary decide on a deadline... The gardener has several options for the development of events:

• spring (April) - the strawberry bed must be prepared in the fall of the previous season;
• summer (July 20-25) - the garden is also prepared in the fall;
• autumn (September) - in this case, the soil for plants is prepared 2-3 weeks before work.

After the deadlines are determined, you can proceed to the formation of beds... The place where they will be located must meet the following requirements:

1. The soil should be sandy loam or loamy, necessarily breathable and nutritious;
2. The optimal acidity level should be within 5.5-6.5 Ph... In the event that the indicator is lowered, it can be raised by adding dolomite flour. It is worth remembering that such work can only be carried out in the fall;
3. Places of accumulation of precipitation are not suitable for growing strawberries and melt water, because in this case there is a great risk of decay of the root system;
4. Groundwater should be located at a depth equal to 70-80 centimeters;
5. Experienced gardeners recommend placing strawberries separately from all other horticultural crops;
6. The best precursors to strawberries are legumes, grains, or greens. It is not worth planting in places where tomatoes or potatoes previously grew;
7. In order for the berries to ripen, to be juicy and sugary, the planting site must be sunny.

The strawberry planting site must be sunny.

The way the beds are formed will depend on the chosen growing location. In the event that the site is located on a hill and is well illuminated by sunlight, it is enough to build a bulk bed with a height 10 centimeters... With a high location of groundwater, this indicator increases up to 35-40 centimeters.

The optimal landing width is 95-100 centimeters.

In order to make the soil more fertile, the following fertilizers are applied per square meter of soil:

• 8 kilograms of compost;
• 100 grams of superphosphate;
• 30 grams of potassium salt.

The next step is to select healthy seedlings:

• they must be free from traces of mechanical damage and disease;
• takes root best planting material with the most powerful and branched roots;
• the socket must be 3-4 leaves.

Saplings must be of high quality and without damage.

Before planting, you must carefully dig the soil to a depth of 25-30 centimeters.

Performing such work will help form a nutritional and water regime... Also, during the digging, you can find and destroy a variety of pests.

Once preparatory work are finished, you can start planting plants:

1. The best time for planting is early morning or late evening on a cloudy day;
2. The standard planting pattern says that the distance between the rows is equal to 60-70 centimeters, and between individual plants 20-25 centimeters;
3. The hole is dug to the depth 13-15 centimeters;
4. When immersing the seedling in the ground, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar is at the same level with the ground. Otherwise, the plant will soon die;
5. The last step will be abundant watering and mulching of the plantings.

Planting and growing strawberries is a fairly simple process, the main thing is to follow all the rules and take preparatory measures on time.

Technology and secrets of strawberry care for a good harvest

Watering

Strawberry care involves many aspects. There are no technologies and secrets to get the harvest. It is enough to observe step by step instructions for planting and breeding, plant within an acceptable time frame and take care of properly. water the plants properly, that is, waterlogging and drying out of the soil should not be allowed.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering strawberries after planting and flowering, while picking berries, in late summer and early fall. One bush will consume 1 liter of warm water. Immediately after watering, the plantings are mulched with a 7-8 centimeter layer of humus.

Fertilizers and feeding

Fertilize strawberries in accordance with the following scheme:

1. In early spring, during the formation of leaves and after harvesting, the bushes are fertilized with nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
2. In late August and early September, fertilizing is carried out with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
3. Before flowering and after harvesting, the plantings are fertilized with a manure solution, humus or wood ash.

Complex fertilizer for strawberries

Strawberries should never be fed with chlorine-containing fertilizers.

Protection against diseases and pests

Strawberry beds needed weed and loosen regularly... This procedure will be a good prevention of fungal diseases.

In the event that gray rot still hit the plant, in order to get rid of it before flowering, plantings are watered with a solution of iodine, a teaspoon of which is diluted in 10 liters of water. The performed procedure is repeated after 7-10 days.

For the prevention of diseases during flowering and after harvest, the following treatments are carried out:

• fungal diseases - "Fitosporin";
• spotting and gray rot - copper oxychloride;
• powdery mildew - 2 tablespoons of potassium permanganate, diluted in 10 liters of water.

Removing the whiskers helps to obtain a larger crop

During the entire growing season from the bushes remove mustache, this will contribute to the formation of a larger and more attractive crop. After picking the berries, it is necessary to cut off the entire green part of the plants, leaving only a few lower leaves.

Every 3-4 years, the planting must be renewed.

Preparing for winter

When growing strawberries in areas with a harsh and unpredictable climate, you should take care of plant protection for the winter. In order for the shrub to tolerate cold temperatures well, choose climate-resistant varieties.

To prepare the plant for winter, it abundantly watered and mulched with straw... With the onset of the first frost, the planting is covered with spruce branches, foil, agrofibre or any other means at hand. If the winter has little snow, then you need to additionally throw snow on the ridges.

In preparation for winter, strawberries are mulched with straw.

The subtleties of growing sweet and aromatic berries

In order to grow a harvest of tasty and juicy berries, you need to adhere to some rules:

1. Best to pick up released and tested varieties, caring for which will not bring any particular difficulties;
2. To get a good harvest, it is very important to adhere to the agricultural technology of growing strawberries, namely, to observe the rules of the neighborhood, to deliberately approach the place of plant growth and planting. It is also very important to correctly and feed and water on time bushes;
3. Weeds take a large amount of nutrients from strawberries, so they need to be removed as soon as possible;
4. Effective and timely disease control will help maintain the quality and quantity of the crop;
5. The mustache depletes the plant, causing the berries to become smaller and the overall yield drops. To maintain fruiting, it is recommended remove shoots regularly strawberries.

Growing strawberries on your own plot is the dream of almost every gardener. In order to bring it to life, you must adhere to all the rules for plant cultivation and not neglect the advice of experienced gardeners.

To grow healthy and productive strawberries in the open field, it is necessary to take into account the botanical and varietal characteristics of the culture, the nuances of agricultural technology and use the knowledge of agricultural chemistry.

Strawberry is a demanding berry, but following the lead and satisfying its appetites, you can easily master the technology of cultivation and get an excellent yield of a fragrant and sweet crop.

Choosing a site for growing strawberries in the open field

Strawberry bushes in an open area two rows

Where to plant strawberries depends on the growing region. Strawberries will not tolerate excessive dryness and constant moisture... Its root system penetrates completely shallowly into the soil, so the scorching sun quickly deprives it of life-giving moisture.

• If cultivation is planned in southern latitudes, then you can give preference to the openwork shade of trees, or the west or east side of the building.
• If regions north, where warmth pleases, not very often, and heat is not at all possible, then only the south side will be suitable for growing a capricious culture.

You can't choose low-lying space. Constant stagnant water will contribute to decay of the root system and the spread of fungal diseases. In the case of "no choice", you need to equip drainage system, which will help to produce a timely outflow of water.

Site selection

The strawberry plantation should be well lit by the sun, and there should be no stagnant moisture in the soil.

When choosing a site, immediately decide how long the culture is going to arrive on it. Ideally, strawberries are grown in one place without sacrificing yield for 3-4 years.

Modern intensive technologies, practice cultivation for 1–2 years, and then the culture moves to another area.

You also need to take care of the predecessor. Strawberries cannot be placed after nightshade crops due to common diseases... It is better if green salad crops (parsley, radish, lettuce) grow in front of the strawberries in the beds.

Site preparation

If you plan to plant a strawberry bed in the spring, then preparatory work should begin in the fall.

Preparing a strawberry bed begins with digging and removing weeds.

In this state, the site goes under the snow.

After the snow melts, the prepared bed will sag and it will be possible to plant strawberries.

Purchase of planting material

You need to take care of the purchase in advance. In order for strawberries to please as long as possible, it is better to give preference to varieties with different ripening periods in equal parts. Early, medium, late strawberries will make the conveyor of berries to your table a long time.

If you want to have strawberries from spring to late autumn, then you cannot do without remontant varieties.

When purchasing seedlings, carefully examine them; if the color of leaves, rosettes or roots is suspicious, it is better to refuse to purchase.

Inspect your strawberry sapling carefully before purchasing.

When buying planting material from breeding nurseries and specialized points of sale, you can be more confident in the quality of seedlings and compliance with the variety.

When choosing a variety, give preference to zoned strawberries, the one that responds well to your natural conditions.

Planting seedlings

Growing strawberries can be done in two ways:

• carpet method;
• private.

Carpet way

The carpet method is convenient for those who rarely visit the site - overgrown bushes rarely need watering and loosening.

When planting with a carpet, the distance between the bushes must be maintained 25 by 25 cm, and the planting density is 5-6 bushes per square meter. Initially, it will seem that strawberries are rarely planted, but when they give a mustache by the middle of summer, then there will be much less space.

The carpet technique is used mainly where there are few beds and caring for them will not be burdensome.

Ordinary way

Strawberries planted in rows develop well and give a stable harvest.

If the planting is carried out by an ordinary method, then the distance between the bushes is 20–25 cm, and between rows 60–70 cm, the rows can run either one at a time or 2-3 without row spacing.

When planting a bed, seedlings must be dipped into a hole along the neck, so that the outlet is not covered with soil. By watering the plant, you can, if necessary, slightly pull it up.

With any planting method, it is important to monitor the placement of the "heart" of the seedling at soil level.

About watering strawberries

Initially, after planting, watering is carried out 2 times a day. After partial rooting, once. And then 3-4 times a week until complete rooting.

Young strawberry seedlings should be watered more often.

Strawberry moisture-loving culture... Its root system does not perceive dry soil at all. The roots are located superficially and at the slightest drying out, the bushes begin to fade. When watering, the leaves will restore turgor, but each violation of agricultural technology will inevitably affect the crop yield.

Modern technologies make it possible to provide strawberries with moisture, regardless of climatic and regional characteristics. Drip irrigation is the best way to balance the level of moisture supply.

To control the crop's need for water, it is enough to dig a hole near the root system, if the soil is not dry, the humidity is optimal.

Harvesting

In the process of harvesting

The moment of harvest is as responsible as any other event. Do not allow strawberries to remain ripe in the garden for a long time.

Berries are harvested daily, in the morning.... During this period, strawberries least of all need watering, and excessive moisture can lead to the fact that the berry is watery.

Waterlogging contributes to the spread of fungal diseases and bacterial rot.

Selection of planting material

The strawberry whiskers are either retained for propagation or trimmed.

Strawberries multiply intensively. If at first this pleases the gardener, then further it is necessary to remove the mustache in a timely manner, if varieties with intensive formation are preferred.

The mustache is trimmed with scissors or a sickle and discarded if there is no need for additional planting material.

If seedlings are needed, then the mustache takes root. The first two rosettes on the mustache are considered the best material, the rest are removed.

To grow high-quality planting material, it is necessary to ensure that rooting takes place in loose soil, moist soil and with constant addition of fresh compost or humus. By autumn, the strawberry seedlings will be ready to be transplanted to a new location.

Agricultural technology of cultivation

It is good to feed flowering strawberries with a fertilizer on a biological basis, which does not contain "chemicals" and "gently" acts on the root system.

During the period of fruiting and growing seedlings, strawberries have taken a sufficient amount of nutrients from the soil and they need to be replenished. However, in the fall, the culture does not need nitrogenous compounds, but it needs to help lay the buds of flowering and prepare for winter.

Autumn is the time for phosphate-potash feeding. Having diluted in a bucket of water 50 g potassium sulfate and superphosphate under each bush you need to add 200-250 g. A good event there will be scattering of furnace ash in the aisles and under bushes - 1 kg / m2.

The plant will not be able to use the stove ash immediately, but autumn rains, melted snow and spring moisture will help the elements move to the root zone, and next year the minerals will be available for absorption by the root system.

Another one good feeding- infusion of chicken manure with nettle.

Spring cleaning

With the onset of the first warm days, the soil begins to warm up rapidly, and the green strawberry rosette starts to grow. It is necessary to hurry and remove old foliage, mustache and weeds from the row spacings.

If the aisles have not been dug up since the fall, this can be done in the spring, but it is better that the wintering forms of pathogens and pests do not have time to come to the surface. If digging is not planned, then it is simply necessary to loosen the earth that has caked after winter.

In spring, old leaves are cut off from strawberries.

Spring feeding

Spring, the time of intensive regrowth of the vegetative mass. To do this, strawberries need fast-acting nutrients, so you need to use nitrogenous mineral supplements.

It is better to take ammonium nitrate or urea as a fertilizer. Dissolve 2 tbsp in a bucket of water. spoons and pour 200-350 ml under each bush. The first feeding should be done in early spring, immediately after the sanitary cleaning. The second nitrogenous fertilizing is carried out at the moment the peduncle extends, with the same fertilizers and in the same dose.

Manure solutions show themselves well as spring feeding. For this, pork, cow or horse manure is poured with water at the rate of 1:10, and chicken manure is 1:20. For each bush, you can safely add 200-250 ml.

"Foliar" dressing

If strawberries are planted on sandy soils, then the leaching of nutrients is more intensive, so there is a need to carry out foliar feeding.

Foliar dressing is carried out before the berries ripen.

In a bucket of water, dissolve 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate, 2-3 g of crystalline boric acid and 3-4 drops of alcohol tincture of 5% iodine, mix everything and process the strawberries on a leaf from a spray bottle.

Pests and diseases

In the technology of growing strawberries in the open field, there are events that are carried out constantly - these are observations. The enemy does not sleep.

The causative agents of bacterial and fungal diseases, pests can sit hiding for years. They are always there, but their population is very small to harm our garden.

Under the confluence of circumstances, natural and weather factors the explosion of malicious agents can be instantaneous so you need to be on the lookout at all times.

A constant inspection of the plantation will help in time to recognize the pathogen or pest and process the site so as not to give the opportunity to spread to such limits when it will no longer be possible to save the strawberry garden.

Video about preparing the beds for autumn planting of strawberries

Growing and tending strawberries for the perfect harvest

Strawberry (lat.Fragaria moschata or Fragaria elatior) is the second, more common name for nutmeg strawberries. To grow a crop and harvest an excellent berry harvest, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of planting, and the rules of cultivation and care.

Dates for planting strawberries in open ground

Good engraftment and growth of strawberries shows at an air temperature of 15-25 degrees Celsius, therefore, the optimal time for planting is considered:

• For the middle zone and the Moscow region - the beginning of spring (late March - mid-April), but preferably in the fall (early August - late September);
• For the south - the autumn period (early September);
• For the northern regions - late May - early July.

Strawberries, planting and caring for which are carried out in accordance with all the rules, gives a good harvest.

Strawberry cultivation methods

For open ground, the classic planting method is most often used. Since the other methods involve the use of special containers or landscape drops, they are used to grow strawberries in greenhouses, on verandas or terraces. Ampel strawberries are also used as an element of garden design.

Classic ways of planting strawberries

The most common, classic ways of planting strawberries outdoors.

Classic strawberry planting schemes

• One line. With this method, a distance of about 60 cm is observed between rows, between plants in a row about 15 cm. This planting is recommended for autumn-spring planting.
• Two-line. This method is used in the summer: the row spacing is 30 cm, between plants about 20 cm. The number of plants will be greater than with the one-line method, and accordingly the yield will be better.

The free distance between rows and plants is an additional preventive measure against the spread of diseases.

Non-standard planting methods

Traditional planting methods are not suitable for small summer cottages. Especially for them, other ways were invented.

Vertical planting of strawberries on a construction grid

• Vertical. Planting strawberries in pipes, pots, building mesh or old tires. All available material is located strictly vertically to save space;

Planting strawberries in plastic bags

• In bags. Plastic bags with soil and strawberry seedlings are laid horizontally or hung vertically. Holes are made for plants for growth;

Planting strawberries under Agrospan

• Planting under agrofibre or creating film tunnels. It does not save space, but it allows you to get a harvest faster than traditional methods;

Growing strawberries hydroponically

• Hydroponics. Strawberry bushes grow on a substrate of mineral wool, peat mixture and coconut fiber. Used in greenhouses on an industrial scale.

Planting strawberries outdoors

Strawberries are quite a whimsical culture, before planting them in open ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the beds. It depends on what kind of harvest strawberries will give, care, cultivation, size and abundance of berries.

Soil preparation

The planting site should be chosen in the southwestern, well-ventilated, sunny part of the site. Strawberries love warmth and light, the sweetness and juiciness of berries depends on it.

Soil preparation for strawberries

It is very important that the place for the beds is a little on a hill, high beds are ideal for growing. If the water stagnates during the ripening period, the berry can be seriously damaged fungal diseases, therefore, it is recommended to drain the soil under the bed with broken brick or pebbles. The occurrence of groundwater should be at a level of 80 cm, the acidity level of the soil should not exceed pH 5.7-6.2.

Landing technology

Before planting, the seedlings are dipped in 1% iodine solution and kept in a cool place for up to 3 days. If sowing is done with seeds, they should be soaked in warm water with a small amount of growth stimulant for 2 days.

Strawberries are planted on a cloudy day so that the seedlings can get used to the sunlight. The soil is preliminarily cleared of weeds and fertilized (70 grams of superphosphate, 30 grams of humus, 30 grams of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt are applied per 1 sq. M.).

Planting strawberry bushes in open ground

When planting seedlings, it is important to ensure that the root system fits well into the prepared hole, does not crumple or bend. If it does not work out, force cannot be used; the hole should be deepened.

After planting, watering is required, at least a liter of water for each bush, as well as fertilization of infusion on humus or manure. If there was no preliminary feeding, fertilize with a mixture of: ammonium nitrate 15 g, superphosphate 30 g and potassium salt 10 g per 1 sq. M.

Features of planting remontant strawberries

Planting remontant strawberries is best done in April - early May. During pre-sowing preparation, the seeds are soaked in water or growth regulator.

Growing remontant strawberries in the open field

When preparing beds for planting remontant varieties, broken bricks must be laid for drainage. A fertile layer is laid with humus with river sand and earth from the garden in equal proportions.

The seeding procedure is performed as follows:

• Water and make depressions at a distance of 5 cm from each other;
• The seeds are buried in the grooves by 0.5 cm;
• Cover with glass or reinforced agrofilm from above.
• After the sprouts appear, pinch the ends of the roots;
• The pinching procedure is repeated when 4-5 leaves appear.

A big plus of remontant strawberries in early and abundant fruiting. The harvest will have time to ripen before frost, and from 1 sq.m. you can collect up to 1 kg of berries.

Crop rotation for strawberries

Strawberries can be planted in the same place for 4 years, then they take a break for 2 years.

Strawberries are not very demanding on the mineral content in the soil, so it can be grown after many crops: radishes and turnips, parsley and spinach, radishes and dill, any legumes, carrots, corn, some bulbous flowers (tulips and hyacinths).

• It is best to plant strawberries after green manure plants. Cereals are especially beneficial.
• Do not grow plants from the Rosaceae family nearby: raspberries, hawthorns, mountain ash or rose hips.
• Legumes and corn are good neighbors as they supply nitrogen to the soil.

Growing and caring for strawberries

If watering is not so important for strawberries, then it is important to follow the feeding throughout the entire summer season. It is also necessary to trim the mustache in a timely manner, and cover the beds for the winter if necessary.

Fertilizing strawberries

Strawberry dressing

• During the budding period, young strawberries are fed with potassium fertilizers (potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium, potassium chloride) according to the instructions on the package.
• To increase the yield, the plant is sprayed with boric acid (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).
• Adult strawberries are fertilized in early spring by adding nitroammofoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
• During flowering, potash nitrate, chicken droppings or wood ash are added.
• After harvesting, fertilize again with nitroammophos (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).
• At the end of summer, for a better harvest next year, the plant is fertilized with urea (30 g per 10 liters of water).

Reproduction and pruning

Strawberries are propagated by seeds, mustache seedlings and bush division. The most popular method is mustache seedlings.

Propagation of strawberries with a mustache or rosettes

In the uterine bushes, the strongest whiskers are left to form a rosette. 2 weeks before planting, the mustache, which connects the sockets with the uterine bush, is cut off. You can use uterine bushes for growing a mustache up to 3 years.

Pruning the leaves in summer helps protect strawberries from disease and pests. The procedure is carried out in a dry morning or evening with a sharp pruning shears. Leave the "point of growth", stems and petioles up to 10 cm long. Only overgrown whiskers and leaves are removed.

For the winter, strawberries should go after pruning, only young shoots are left. Strawberry cultivation and care of which are supplemented correct pruning sick less and grows better.

Mulching strawberries

Strawberry mulching is carried out in the spring to avoid contact of the peduncles with the soil and in late autumn to protect against frost. Consider options for mulching strawberries.

Mulching strawberries with straw

• Organic mulch (compost, humus, grass cuttings, manure). Improves microbiological parameters and soil structure;
• Inorganic mulch (stone, granite, chips, black and colored polyethylene).

Advantages of mulching with special purchased mulch paper:

• Safety (does not contain harmful printing ink);
• Does not rot, protects against fungi, weed germination and external influences (drying out from heat or freezing).

Strawberry shelter for the winter

Strawberry bushes require shelter for a harsh (up to -20 degrees Celsius) and little snow winter in order to avoid freezing of the roots. They begin to shelter at the onset of regular frosts, if it gets warmer, then the shelter is removed to avoid damping off. Light frosts help to harden the plant.

Mulching strawberries with dry leaves for the winter

Suitable as a covering material:

• Pine spruce branches;
• Hay, straw, dry leaves;
• Agrofibre, Spunbond, Agrotex

Outcome

Strawberries, which take a lot of time and effort to care for, will surely bring you a bountiful harvest. It is necessary to properly prepare the soil for planting and follow the rules for growing a crop and provide it best conditions for growth, then the berries will be sweet and large.

Most of the owners of their own plots necessarily set aside a place for garden strawberries in the hope of fragrant, fabulously tasty berries. But in reality, growing strawberries is not such an easy task, this demanding plant needs constant care. It is inconvenient to weed strawberry spreading bushes, the mustache is constantly climbing, the berries lie on the ground and rot, The size of the strawberries does not live up to expectations, and they may taste watery or sour.

Foreword

It is not surprising that all novice gardeners, after the first unsuccessful independent attempts, have a question: how to grow strawberries correctly? There is no reason to be upset and nervous - you can definitely grow good strawberries in the open field (in a garden bed not covered with a greenhouse). Observing certain rules and knowing the secrets of success, even without experience, you can achieve the desired yield from garden strawberries.

Even without experience, you can achieve the desired yield from garden strawberries.

Features of growing garden strawberries in the beds:

• the surface of the earth should be flat or with a slight slope facing south-west;
• in the lowlands, plants will be sick and bear fruit late due to the accumulation of cool air;
• the southern slopes are not suitable due to the early melting of snow (strawberry bushes remain unprotected against spring frosts);
• the garden bed should be located in a place closed from the winds, since a layer of snow of at least 25 cm is required for wintering strawberry bushes;
• strawberries can be grown on the same bed for no more than four years (preferably two years) in order to avoid the accumulation of various fungi and viruses in the soil;
• strawberries bear fruit better in the bright sun, few berries appear in the shade, and they have a sour taste.
• it is impossible to overmoisten the soil, but there should not be a lack of moisture;
• dense planting will lead to a harvest of small berries, the distance between the bushes should be about half a meter (the more, the better).

Video about growing strawberries

Preparatory work before growing strawberries in the open field

Soil composition for strawberries of great importance does not, any soil is suitable for it. However, the best results can be achieved on chernozem soil with the addition of wood ash. Fertile peat soils, on the other hand, are not recommended for strawberries.

Beds in areas where groundwater come close are made up to 40 cm high, and in dry areas up to 10 cm high, or they do not form ridges at all. One meter wide will be enough. Remove weeds and pest larvae from the garden bed, dig up the soil to a depth of 25 cm and add fresh compost or humus to the soil.

The composition of the soil for strawberries does not matter much, any soil is suitable for it

With the appearance of the first ovary, add dry straw or sawdust under the shoots, then the berries will not lie on the ground and rot. To achieve bountiful harvest for large berries, tear off the whiskers during strawberry flowering and fruiting. When the entire crop is harvested, leave one mustache growing directly at the mother plant. Over the summer, a young bush will form from it, with which it will be possible to update the old plant. Such an update should be carried out every three years.

Before planting seedlings, loosen the bed with a pitchfork, level the surface and tamp a little. After that, you can water the soil abundantly with water and treat it with copper sulfate.

From seedlings to the first berries - how to grow strawberries

The optimal period for transplanting prepared strawberry seedlings is the second decade of July. It is best to transplant in cloudy weather or in the evening, so that the plants are well acclimatized overnight. For planting, choose the largest and most prolific rosettes, located close to the mother bush, with a developed root system and three to four leaves. Separating the rosette from the mother liquor, it is planted, together with a wet lump of soil, on a garden bed.

Try not to put the seedlings too deep in the ground, otherwise the roots will rot, and not too close to the surface - the roots may dry out. The heart of the bush should be in the ground. When planting, straighten the rosette roots so as not to break them, and place them vertically in the hole. After planting seedlings, water the soil abundantly.

Weeds actively reproduce outdoors

The generally accepted technology for growing strawberries in the beds (in the open field) also implies the correct preparation of plants for wintering. When the last berries are collected, remove all the weeds around the strawberries, sprinkle the soil with vegetable litter: branches, sawdust, wood chips. Such measures will help the bushes to grow stronger, grow and stock up on strength before winter period... When the strawberry leaves dry up, the bushes will need to be covered with fallen leaves or straw for the winter. In the spring, the strawberries will need to be cleaned of last year's leaves and the soil between the bushes should be loosened.

Do not forget to regularly water the strawberries, especially in the heat, and feed with nitrogen fertilizers and special complex fertilizers at the beginning of growth. In the open field, weeds actively reproduce - you will need to constantly remove them and prevent the appearance of pests that can destroy the crop.

Video about growing large strawberries

Take a look interesting way how strawberries are grown on bulk beds with mulching (video in the corresponding tab). If the land on your site leaves much to be desired, bulk strawberry beds will be the best option.

Planting rules, methods and secrets of how to plant strawberries

1 What you need to get a rich harvest 2 Grow strawberries from seeds 3 Site preparation

4 How to plant strawberries 5 Ways of planting strawberries

What you need to get a rich harvest

First, let's figure out how strawberries differ from strawberries. Strawberry bushes are taller, wrinkled leaves, flower stalks rise above light leaves. The berries are smaller than strawberries. Gardeners often call garden strawberries strawberries. The technology of planting and cultivation is absolutely the same, so in our article we will not pay attention to the difference between crops. Whatever you call this sweet, juicy berry, it will not change its taste.

Success rules:

High quality planting material. Properly organized landing site. Competent landing. Strawberry varieties (small-fruited, large-fruited, remontant - fruiting continuously throughout the spring, summer and autumn); Best predecessors: garlic, onion, dill, petunias, marigolds. The berry is returned to its old place after 5 years. If there is little food, the first collection is the largest, then the smallest.

Planting material can be obtained in several ways:

buy; grow by ourselves from seeds; take a mustache from other bushes; division of the bush (if the variety does not give a mustache).

Here you need to decide on the timing of planting. The berries are planted in autumn, spring and summer. When is the best time to plant strawberries? We believe that it is better to plant it in May, mid-July - early August. During these periods it is not very hot, the seedlings root well and give a good harvest the next year. All you have to do is water and feed the plants.

If we buy seedlings, then we give preference to plants with a closed root system, that is, in cups. It should be a one-year-old seedling with roots at least 5 cm long and 2-3 well-developed leaves. If there are peduncles on the bush, then it is better to remove them so as not to deplete the plant. The task is to get a large strong bush in the first year, and only then the harvest.

Growing strawberries from seeds

Good varieties: Baron Sallemakher, Yellow miracle, Fresco, Sasha, Moscow delicacy. Strawberry seeds germinate only in the light. With artificial supplementary lighting, you can start sowing seeds in January. They are usually sown in March when the length of the day increases. Spread on the surface of the soil, without sprinkling anything. It is convenient to inoculate in transparent food containers with a lid. It turns out a mini-greenhouse. Seeds can sprout for a month, sometimes one and a half. To stimulate germination, it is recommended to spray the seeds with HB-101 solution (1 drop per liter of water). The soil is watered with the same solution.

Supplementary illumination of seeds can and should be done using a table lamp. A conventional incandescent light bulb is changed to an energy-saving cold glow.

A table lamp is placed at a height of 15 cm above a bowl or container with seeds and illuminated for 12, and preferably 14-16 hours a day.

I must warn you that on a cold windowsill, the seeds are in no hurry to germinate and die in the ground. For this, a "warm" window sill is organized - pieces of foam are placed under the containers.

Large-fruited varieties can be sown in peat tablets. There are usually 5-10 seeds in a bag, so the tablets will not take up much space. The tablets are soaked in water or a solution of the drug HB-101, diluting a drop per liter of water. They are also placed in a bowl under the film, creating a greenhouse environment.

When the cotyledon leaves appear, you cannot immediately open the mini-greenhouse - the sprouts will fall and die. There was a certain humidity in the container under the lid, and the room air is dry - the leaves cannot cope with the evaporation of moisture and dry out. The film (cover) is removed only when real leaves appear. Open gradually over several days to allow the sprouts to become accustomed to the low ambient humidity. Condensation droplets must be removed from the lid daily.

Site preparation

Before planting strawberries, prepare the place. The area for strawberries is set aside in a sunny, ventilated place. Distinguish between traditional and natural agricultural techniques for growing crops. Traditional planting (regular) means growing strawberries and getting the maximum yield in one area for 3-4 years. The bush bears fruit until it is completely exhausted. Then we usually say "the berry has degenerated" and practically completely renew the strawberries by replanting them to another place. Natural agricultural technology allows you to get a full harvest up to 7-8 years in one place due to constant feeding and special care.

Traditionally, they are planted with ribbons of two rows with a distance between rows of 30 cm, between ribbons 60 cm, observing the distance between the bushes of berries of 15-25 cm.Or on beds 100 cm wide, the bushes are planted in a checkerboard pattern after 50 cm, leaving a passage of 50 cm between the rows ...

Natural farming involves a slightly different planting pattern. The beds are made 50 cm wide. The bushes are planted in one row every 50 cm. The passage between the rows is 50 cm. Yes, no matter what method you choose, place the beds from north to south. At first it seems that there is a lot of space left for the seedlings. But remember, the berry will grow in one area for 5-8 years, the bush will grow and take up all the free space.

The site is freed from weeds. Rotted organic matter is introduced at the rate of 3 buckets / m2. You can add organic matter directly to the wells. Pits measuring 25x25 cm and the same lubins are dripping. The wells are filled with a mixture:

compost bucket; a bucket of horse manure (rotted); a bucket of soil from the garden; 2 glasses of ash.

Instead of manure, you can take a bucket of compost mixed with 2 liters of vermicompost.

How to plant strawberries correctly

If seedlings:

in a plastic pot - spilled one hour before planting; v peat tablet- immersed in water for 30 seconds; open root system - incubated for 10 hours in a solution of HB-101 (3 drops per liter of water).

The length of the roots is left up to 10 cm, the excess is cut off. If you have seedlings with a closed root system, then you can plant them throughout the summer. Seedlings with an open root system are planted in spring and August.

Although strawberries are the most common berry on the plantations, many gardeners make mistakes when planting them. At the bottom of the planting hole, we make a mound and put a plant on it. Make sure that the roots do not bend. This usually happens when they are too long. In this case, we safely cut off the excess with the pruning shears, shortening the roots to a length of 10 cm. We also make sure that the roots do not bend up, which is also wrong. Ideally, they should go straight down the hill.

One more important point... Many people bury the plant too deeply. When planting deeply, the central kidney (heart) is below the soil level. In no case should this be allowed, since the heart will begin to vomit and rot. The plant will most likely die. In the case of shallow planting, seedlings are also doomed to quick death, since the heart dries up. The central bud should barely protrude above the soil level. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, plus 0.5 liters of HB-101 solution (93 drops per liter of water) are poured under each bush).

Then the strawberries are mulched with compost and covered with the thinnest covering material No. 17 (in 2 layers) or No. 30 for two weeks. It is simply thrown over plants without arcs. Why cover? The root system has not started yet. The leaves evaporate moisture, and the roots cannot yet deliver water from the soil to them. Plants can dry out. A greenhouse effect is created under the covering material, the seedlings take root better.

The question is often asked what materials can be taken as mulch. You can take grass, hay, straw, pine spruce branches, rotted sawdust, rotted compost. The thickness of the compost layer should be 5-6 cm. The thickness of the layer of hay, straw, dry grass should be 10 cm. Mulch is added every month throughout the season.

Planting methods for strawberries

We have decided on the varieties, everything is clear with the planting schemes, we have chosen the timing. Now let's talk about the different ways to grow garden strawberries.

Planting with mulch film

We lay agrofibre. We lay the corners of the mulching film in the holes, sprinkle with earth around the perimeter. After we have laid the agricultural blocks, we proceed to planting strawberries. We make a small cruciform incision just to barely push the roots into it. Then we tear a small hole with our hands under the film and lay the roots of the seedling. Fill with compost and water.

If you make a large cut, weeds will crawl out from there, which will draw all the moisture out of the soil. It is not worth planting large seedlings under a mulching film. Attention, if you decide to plant a berry in this way, then you need to provide the plant with food for 4 years in advance. To do this, we add 2-3 buckets of rotted compost for each square meter.

Planting strawberries on a straw mattress

We will tell you an interesting way of planting garden strawberries on pea straw. After harvesting the peas, the tops are dug into the soil to form a straw mattress. The soil is spilled with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen ensures good maturation of the pea tops. After about 3 weeks, strawberries are planted on this site. High quality mustache is important. A large mustache gives large berries the next year. The larger the planting material, the more tall the plants will be, the thicker the peduncles.

Strawberry seedlings are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The aisles are not dug up, but they are freed from weeds. Can be planted right from the edge of the bed so that later the plant can use the soil between the rows. 3-4 rows of berries are placed on the garden bed. The width of the beds is calculated so that from each side it is easy to reach the middle to care for the plantings.

After planting, they shed the earth well so that dirt forms. It is not for nothing that there is a proverb about strawberries "If you put them in the mud, you will be a prince."

The antennae often have underdeveloped roots. The next day after planting, the seedlings may wither in the sun. To make the rooting process a little easier for them, sprinkle the ground around them with hay for the next 3-4 days for shading. You can remove the hay later, or you can add more, you get a good thick layer of mulch.

Bed-pyramid

The beds located upward and taking up little space are relevant for small summer cottages. To organize a bed-pyramid, you need 4 wooden bottomless boxes and a piece of pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of 2-2.5 meters. You can put together the boxes yourself.

The pipe is fixed and holes are drilled with an electric drill along the entire length of the pipe. They are needed to water the pyramid beds. Large holes do not need to be drilled, they can become clogged with earth. Water will find any hole anyway.

They choose a place for the pyramid and drive the pipe to a depth of 80-90 cm so that it holds tight. By the way, holes in the part of the pipe that will be underground are not made.

Then they take the largest box and put it on top of the pipe so that it runs exactly in the center, we fix it in the ground. The box can be dug in or opened with pegs: drive the stakes into each corner with inside boxes.

Then they put good fertile soil into the box, filling it to the brim and moderately compacting it. This is how all the remaining boxes are strung onto the pipe. A smaller box is placed on each next one. Four to five tiers will be enough to maintain the stability of the pyramid and avoid problems with watering, berry care, and harvesting.

In addition, you need to ensure that there is free space for strawberry seedlings. A piece of pipe should stick out above the last tier. It is easy to water the plants from above through the pipe by plugging in a hose. Opposite each tier there are always holes through which the soil will be moistened.

Your berry will grow no worse than in an ordinary garden bed. In summer, the bushes will bloom and the pyramid will turn into a white-pink flower bed, pleasing to the eye.

Subject to all the rules, the plants planted for you will root well, take root and you will be guaranteed an excellent strawberry harvest. By the way, do not forget that strawberries are recognized as one of the most delicious and healthy berries in the world!

Rate article: 54321 (1 vote, average: 5 out of 5) Share with your friends! Related entries: How to grow strawberries - the secrets of getting great harvest at minimum costs Planting cucumbers in the greenhouse and in the open field or All the secrets of a rich harvest! Root and foliar feeding of strawberries for large berries and a rich harvest

How to plant strawberries correctly - 4 planting methods - gardening tips. RU


This is the easiest and cheapest planting method. Its essence is that the mustache of strawberry bushes does not break off, thereby the berry is allowed to grow independently over the entire allotted area.

With such a compacted method of placing bushes, its own special microclimate arises in the surface layer, as well as a layer of plant mulch is formed by itself. This keeps weeds in check and keeps the soil moist.

Advantages of the method: it is convenient for those who do not often visit the country, berries rarely need watering, loosening and fertilization due to natural mulching.

Disadvantages of the method: over time, the berries may become smaller.

You can read more about efficiently growing strawberries using carpet planting here.

Read on to learn how to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds.
And we also have an article on the correct technology for planting strawberries.
Here we find out whether to process strawberries in the spring, and here - how to carry out autumn pruning and prepare the strawberry beds for winter.

We wish you success and big harvests!

Planting strawberries in August

Planting strawberries in August

The leaves of the seedlings should be bright green in color. The thickness of the stem of the seedling itself should be about 0.7 cm. The root of the strawberry bush should be 7-8 cm. The seedlings should be free from defects in the root system and leaves. If the seedlings are purchased in a plastic container, the roots of the strawberry seedling should envelop the entire container. If the seedlings are sold in peat pots, the roots should be visible to the outside.

We prepare land soil

Experienced gardeners recommend planting strawberry bushes in August. It is better to do this in sunny areas with an acidity of 6.5%, in chernozem soil. The berry can also feel good on sandy areas. Planting a plant near water will be undesirable.

Having picked up a place on your site, you should carefully examine it for the presence of pests. If there are any, they are destroyed using special means. Before planting seedlings, the soil must be well cleared of weeds, and then fertilized. To do this, a special organic mixture is placed in each dug hole, consisting of 1 bucket of soil, compost, rotted horse manure and 2 glasses of ash. And after 14 days, strawberry bushes can be safely planted.

The distance at which the seedlings are rooted

At what distance and depth is it better to plant the bushes?

You cannot plant the plant too deeply, since the center of the bush will be below the level of the soil, which will provoke its death. Seedlings can take root well and quickly if they are planted so that the center of the plant protrudes quite a bit above the surface of the soil.

Rules to follow

seedlings should be planted in a dug hole, in which a small mound is previously made; the roots, if they are long, cannot be bent, it is enough just to carefully trim them; after planting, the plant should be watered abundantly; young seedlings must be mulched with straw, hay, sawdust or compost. After that, cover with blood material to create a good greenhouse effect.

In the future, it is necessary to regularly weed strawberries and remove their mustaches. At high humidity, the plant is watered so that the soil is well wet. In August, flowers are laid, on which, accordingly, the amount of harvest for the next season depends.

Basic schemes for planting bushes

There are two schemes for planting strawberry bushes. It:

Single-row planting, that is, planting in one row. It is necessary to observe the gaps between the plants - at least 20 cm, the distance between rows - about 70 cm. Two-line planting. Planting strawberries with ribbons, in two rows. In this case, the distance between the plants should be about 60 cm, the row spacing should be no more than 30 cm.

The technique of planting strawberry bushes in open ground mustache

As soon as the rosettes of the berries are ripe, they must be planted in a permanent place. Strawberries should be planted with a mustache on favorable days in August. In cloudy weather or in the evening. This must be done so that the plant can quickly adapt to a new area.

The area where you are going to plant the bushes should be divided into rows, and the distance should be about 1 m. Plants should be planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

The depth of the holes should be 10-15 cm, and the core of the socket should be at the level of the ground.

If the core of the outlet is deepened, the bush will quickly die.

We plant seedlings under black film

Very often, in order to get a high yield of berries, gardeners use a special planting method, which includes covering the plants with agrofibre or ordinary black plastic wrap. For this, small holes are made in the film. The secret of the method is that the black material does not let the sun's rays through, and annoying weeds do not grow under it. In order to plant strawberry bushes under a film, you will need to do the following:

Purchase a black film or agrofiber of the required size. Find a mulching material for lining on the ground, the corners of which are laid in the dug holes along the perimeter of the site and covered with earth. Start planting fruit bushes. It is better to place them according to the checkerboard principle. The distance between plants (30 cm) must be observed. On the film, it is necessary to fix the marks in those places where the holes will be and carefully make small cuts. After marking the holes, manually dig medium-sized holes and plant the seedlings.

Cutting out large holes can cause weeds to grow.

Compatibility of different varieties of strawberries

There is a conviction among amateur gardeners that it is impossible to plant different varieties of strawberries. But is it really so? A variety of varieties of such fragrant fruits, and in fact, it is better not to plant next to each other, since they are pollinated among themselves, which entails a decrease in the quality of the berries.

How to plant strawberries in August so you don't have to worry about next year's harvest

To get healthy strawberry bushes that will grow well without disease and give a large harvest of sweet berries, you need to plant high-quality seedlings. How to choose the right material for planting? Experts recommend buying annual seedlings with a closed root system (in cups). They should have fibrous roots at least 5 cm long and no more than three well-developed leaves.

Elite varieties of strawberries give a good harvest. It will be good if you purchase and plant such seedlings on your personal plot. For the cultivation of this culture, gardeners use frigo seedlings, which are carefully selected from the bushes of berries available in the garden, then dug out in late autumn and stored in bags at a slight negative temperature.

Examine the seedlings, there should be no signs of disease on the leaves and stems

Where is the best place to buy strawberry seedlings? If you buy it in the markets from private procurers, then there is a possibility that the purchased plant will be infected with diseases and pests. It is best to take healthy seedlings obtained from sterile plants grown according to a special test tube technique. Such seedlings are sold by large producers. In specialized nurseries, strawberry seedlings are sold from late July to early August.

The earlier at the end of summer you plant the bushes of this plant, the more likely it is that flower buds will be laid on them, and the first harvest will be next year. When choosing seedlings, take a good look at the seedlings. If you see pale, wrinkled leaves on the plants, or there are some dots on them, it is better not to buy such material. These signs indicate poor quality of seedlings, infection with diseases / pests. Buy strawberry seedlings with the following traits:

- the leaves of seedlings are leathery / with pubescence, have a rich healthy shiny green color; - the sapling's horn is at least 0.7 cm thick; - the length of the roots of open seedlings is more than 7 cm; - seedlings have no damage to roots, leaves; - the core of the bush is strong, elastic, has a rich green color; - for seedlings in cups or cassettes, the roots should entangle the entire volume of the container in which they are located; - the peat pot should have roots that have pierced it through and look outward;

Soil preparation

Planting strawberries is best at the end of the summer season in August. It is advisable to do this in sunny places and on the southwestern slopes with a slope of 2-3 degrees. It is not advisable to use plots in lowlands or a closed type for growing this plant. The acidity of the soil for planting strawberry seedlings should not exceed 5.5-6.5 pH. Bushes of berries will give a good harvest if they are planted on podzolized chernozem soils or on dark gray forest soil, which has a medium or light composition.

The berry will also bear fruit well on sod-podzolic, sandy loam soils. It is not advisable to plant strawberries where groundwater is close to the surface. Before planting seedlings in a certain area, it is necessary to first examine it for the presence of pests, and if they are detected, destroy insects with special means. The land for planting strawberries is first cleared of weeds. Then, 2 weeks before planting the seedlings, prepare the soil for planting seedlings. 2-3 buckets of organic matter per 1 sq. m.

After what crops to plant: strawberry predecessors

When choosing a site for planting strawberries, consider which plant has grown on it before. You should not use the land for growing this tasty berry if plants from the Asteraceae family, buttercups or tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, sunflowers have recently grown on it. So after what can you plant strawberries? And can this plant be planted after the onion? The berry harvest will be good if the seedlings are planted in the soil where they previously grew:

peas; beans; radish; garlic; parsley; radish; mustard; Dill; salad; oats; onion.



After planting, the strawberries need to be watered abundantly.

At what distance to root a berry: planting scheme with a photo

When planting seedlings, do not bury them too deep in the ground, otherwise the center point or heart of the bush will be below the ground level, which will lead to the death of the plant. It is also impossible to allow a shallow planting of strawberries. This is fraught with drying out of the heart and the death of the bush. The seedling will root well and will grow if planted so that the center point of the seedling protrudes slightly above the soil surface.

When planting seedlings in a hole, you need to make a mound in it and put a plant on it. The roots should not be bent, they should smoothly descend along the tubercle. If they are too long, be sure to trim them off a little. After planting seedlings, the plant must be watered abundantly and a solution of HB 101-93 is added under each seedling, diluting 93 drops of this substance in 1 liter of water. Then young bushes are mulched with compost (5-6 cm) or straw, hay, sawdust (10 cm) and covered with a special material to create a greenhouse effect for better rooting of seedlings.

In the future, the bushes are weeded regularly and the mustache is removed. If the weather is dry after planting the seedlings, you need to water the crop so that the land on the site is moist. During this period, flower buds are laid, on which the berry harvest depends on the next year. There are several schemes for planting strawberries:

- one-line. This is planting seedlings in one row. The distance between the bushes of plants should be 15-20 cm, and between the rows - 60-70 cm; - two-line. This is a planting with ribbons consisting of 2 rows of bushes. Distance between ribbons - 60-70 cm, rows - 30 cm, bushes - 15-20 cm; - natural agricultural technology. With this scheme, seedlings are planted every 50 cm in one row on beds 50 cm wide.The distance between the rows is 50 cm.

How to fertilize the soil before planting

2 weeks before planting seedlings, it is advisable to add 40 g of double superphosphate, up to 20 g of potassium fertilizers (wood ash or potassium sulfate) to the soil (for each 1 sq. M.). It is advisable to add organic matter to the holes for planting seedling bushes. To do this, dig a hole 25x25x25 cm under each seedling and fill it with a mixture consisting of 1 bucket of soil from the site, 1 bucket of compost, 1 bucket of rotted horse manure, 2 glasses of ash.

Planting garden strawberries with a mustache in open ground

One of the ways to get strawberry seedlings is to root the whiskers from a specially prepared uterine bush of this culture. On such shoots, rosettes and their own root system are formed:

- 2 weeks before transplanting, separate the young seedling from the rooting of the mustache from the adult plant with scissors. From that time on, he will switch to his own food; - when the strawberry rosettes are ripe, transplant them to a permanent place. When to plant strawberries with a mustache? It is better to start this process on time from the end of July to the end of August. This should be done on a cloudy day or in the evening, so that the root system of the plant is well adapted to the new place; - Divide the area for planting strawberries into rows with a distance of 1 m between them. Plant strawberries at a distance of 20-30 cm between the bushes; - make the depth of the pit for strawberry seedlings 15 cm; - the core of the socket after planting must be at the level of the soil. It is important not to deepen it and not leave it above the ground, so that the bush does not die;

How to properly plant under a black film

To obtain a large harvest of strawberries, gardeners use the method of planting a plant under a black film or agrofibre. These devices cover the entire site. Holes are made in the film for planting berry bushes. Black material does not allow sunlight to pass through to the ground, and weeds and other unwanted plants in this area do not grow under it. To implement this landing method, you need:

purchase agrofibre or black film, an area equal to the size of the plot of the future strawberry plantation; then lay the mulching material on the ground, laying its corners in the pits along the perimeter and filling it with soil; then start the process of planting seedlings. It is advisable to plant them in a checkerboard pattern with a distance between the bushes of 25-30 cm; on the film, first mark the places for the holes and make small perpendicular cuts in them; then dig holes with your hands through each hole and plant the seedlings; the holes in the film should not be large, so as not to provoke the growth of weeds;

What fertilizer to use or what to feed in the fall

Plants planted in August must be fertilized. This is done using different feedings. It is useful to treat strawberries with a solution of 30 g of urea and 10 liters of water. Foliar feeding is carried out with boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. Treated bushes will bring more harvest in summer, and the quality of the berries will be higher than on plants not fertilized with these substances. To make a feeding mixture, prepare the following ingredients:

- molybdenum - 2 g; - manganese - 50 g; - boric acid - 15 g; - water - 15 liters.

Strawberry care in the fall includes preparing the plant for winter. The bushes of this culture are covered with straw, peat, compost, fallen leaves or corn stalks. These natural substances not only keep plants from cold in winter, but also fertilize the soil. As a mulch for bushes, special materials are also used - spunbond, lutrasil. The covered strawberries will be protected from frost and will yield a good harvest next year. Further agrotechnical work with strawberries begins in April.

You can plant strawberries using a clay talker.

Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries next to each other

In some gardeners' reviews, there is a deep conviction that it is impossible to plant different varieties of strawberries together. So they are pollinated among themselves, and then the quality of the berries on their bushes becomes worse. But experts argue that the reason for the deterioration of the yield in such cases is not that there is cross-pollination, but because the plant is degenerating.

If you delve a little into botany, then you can remember that when crops are pollinated, double fertilization occurs. As a result of this process, seeds are obtained that contain the genetic information from the pollinator plant. However, this is not the case with strawberries, because its fruit is not exactly what botany understands by this term.

A juicy red berry on a bush of this culture is an overgrown receptacle, which is part of the mother plant and carries only its genetic characteristics. Therefore, the culture, the pollen of which is used to pollinate the strawberry flowers, does not affect the quality of the berries. This means that planting different varieties nearby is not prohibited. But when propagating a plant with a mustache, it is important not to confuse which variety of strawberries the daughter outlet belongs to.

Marina Stoletova, source

Reproduction of strawberries (garden strawberries) with a mustache in summer is the easiest way to get new bushes of many beloved berries. The reproduction procedure is carried out after fruiting in July or August, so that the seedlings have time to settle down in a new place and prepare for wintering. However, in order to get a harvest from young plants next year, you need to know how to prepare a strawberry bed for planting, and how to properly plant a strawberry mustache.

The number of outlets on strawberry bushes may vary. It all depends on the care of the plantings during the season, the age of the bush and the variety of the plant.

The strongest and most developed are the mustaches, which are formed immediately at the mother bush. It is from them that the strongest bushes are obtained. Therefore, the first sockets should be left, and the rest should be cut off so that excess antennae do not take power from those selected for planting.

If you want to plant a lot of new seedlings, you can leave the second sockets as well.

Rooting the strawberry whiskers

To get seedlings of garden strawberries as quickly as possible, carry out a number of procedures:

1. Spread the rosettes around the mother shrub and pin them with paper clips or wire. The mustache knots need to be buried a little in the ground.
2. Water the young plants abundantly regularly, not forgetting about the main bush. It is best to water the plants in the evening, as strawberries grow most rapidly at night. After watering, remove the weeds and gently loosen the soil.
3. Feed the outlets with fertilizers that contain nitrogen. This element stimulates the formation and development of new leaves.
4. After about one to two weeks, when the mustache has taken root, trim off the ends.
5. When 5-6 leaves appear on the outlets, separate them from the mother plant. Young plants should now grow with nourishment only through their roots.

In a week, strong grown strawberry seedlings will be ready for transplanting.

Remember! You should not wait for a large harvest of garden strawberries if there are sockets for propagation on the bushes. The mother plant will give a lot of nutrition and strength to the development of the mustache. Therefore, to get fruit, leave some plants, removing all whiskers from them, and it is recommended to remove inflorescences from bushes with rosettes during the season. Otherwise, the plants will be depleted, as they will spend their energy both on the development of the mustache and on the formation of berries.

How to prepare a bed for planting strawberries

The soil for planting garden strawberries should be prepared in advance. If the strawberry whiskers are planted in July, August or September, the garden bed is dug up and fertilized in early summer or at least a month before planting.

It is best to plant garden strawberries in areas where dill, peas, onions, radishes, beans, garlic, carrots or radishes grew in the past or current year.

Preparing a bed for planting strawberries:

• dig up the ground, while removing weeds (digging depth - from 20 cm);
• apply fertilizers: for each square meter of the garden, during digging, 50 g of nitrogen fertilizers and potassium salt, 80 g of superphosphate and 6-7 kg of compost or humus are applied;
• before planting, holes are made on the beds with a distance between rows of 50-60 cm, and between plants - from 30 to 40 cm.

Landing procedure

Strawberry whiskers are best planted in July or August, so that they have time to get stronger by winter. In this case, the next season, you can expect a full harvest from young plants of garden strawberries. If the rosettes are planted in September, the harvest will be cut by a third. The bushes planted at the end of September can freeze and die.

How to plant a strawberry mustache correctly:

1. The day before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly.
2. In order for the plants to transfer the transplant better, they are dug up with a large clod of earth and carefully transferred to a new place.
3. The roots of the seedlings are covered with fertile soil and watered abundantly.

Attention! Strawberry mustache planting is best done in rainy weather or in the evening.

Care after landing

Strawberry whiskers planted in summer require regular watering. So that the soil does not dry out and weeds do not grow, it is recommended to mulch the strawberry garden. As mulch, you can use straw, sawdust, peat. If the soil is not covered with mulch, it is regularly cleared of weeds and loosened after watering or rains.

Two weeks before the shelter, planting garden strawberries should be fed with bird droppings or a solution of wood ash:

1. Chicken droppings are pre-diluted with water 1:10. A watering can with a volume of 10 liters will be enough to feed 5 square meters of plantings.
2. If there is no droppings, you can use wood ash, 1 glass of which is diluted in a bucket of water (10 L).

Young seedlings for the winter must be covered with straw, fallen dry leaves, spruce branches or agrofibre.

Before sheltering, the bushes must be examined for damage by pests or diseases. As a preventive measure, the plants are powdered with ash, and it is recommended to spread garlic or onion husks on the strawberry garden.

Harbor plantings of young strawberries for the winter in October - November.

Many began to create a new bed of strawberries in July, and in August the planting of strawberries must be completed - otherwise the strawberry mustache will not have time to prepare for winter. How to plant strawberries so that they give a good harvest next year? There are several ways to plant strawberries. First, we will discuss the planting of purchased strawberry seedlings, and then - the scheme for planting a strawberry mustache of our own collection.

How to treat a strawberry mustache before planting

Seedlings of any fruit crops brought from the nursery in about half of the cases are infected with some pest or disease (gall midge on raspberries, kidney mites on currants, spheroteka on gooseberries, etc.), and strawberries are no exception. It is worth warming them up in hot water at a temperature of about 50 ° C, just in case, immersing them in a bucket entirely in pots for 15–20 minutes. At this temperature, root aphids, nematodes, ticks and other possible pests die: it's just that in nurseries, a huge amount of them often accumulates in the soil - this is an “occupational disease” of all nurseries.

But as practice shows, there is often no time to warm it up, you plant it like that, hoping for luck. In this case, the rule should be applied to plant the purchased strawberry whiskers at a great distance - at least 1–1.5 m, so that they do not infect each other if someone turns out to be a carrier of the pest. So it is more convenient to get a mustache from them.

The purchased mustache of each variety can be planted in a line, or it can be nested in 3 (triangle) or 4 (square) so that at least a small spatial isolation is observed between the varieties and the mustache does not intersect.

How to get a good strawberry mustache

Confusion with strawberry varieties should be avoided at all costs. When we receive the livestock of each variety from one leader, we can be sure that we have a whole one variety. And so it is necessary to take care of it in the future. Although sometimes it is easy to distinguish one variety from others: by the early or late reddening of the berries, by five blades on a leaf instead of three, finally, by color and general view berries, and sometimes even pink flowers.

All space between plants must be completely free of weeds. The whiskers should grow absolutely freely, without encountering root obstacles. Then they imperceptibly and at the same time quickly turn into long garlands. In no case should you tear off the mustache, otherwise the synergy effect is lost, when each mustache strengthens the next with its roots, and all of them are strengthened by the roots of the mother plant.

This is possible only on clean, fertile soil, with frequent but moderate nitrogen fertilization and good watering. Under such conditions, the garlands grow rapidly, and by September the bush gives us dozens of mustaches. The only method of shaping with a pruner is to cut off the lateral branches of the mustache, or offsets (this is when the rosette, in addition to the main continuation of the mustache, gives an even thinner mustache to the side). Such bites have less strength and are not used for breeding.

Reproduction of the starting parent bush-leader is the only case when we allow ourselves a September planting. We are pulling until September, without touching the mustache, so that they get as many outlets as possible.

Strawberry planting scheme

Now let's take a look at the usual strawberry planting, with our own mustache. Whether we plant strawberries in September or July, there are optimal standard distances between plants in a row and between the rows themselves. They are quite “floating”. Over time, you will correct them for yourself, for your case.

The general strategy is that at peak yield (2nd and 3rd fruiting years) strawberries grow at the next gravity.

> Single row fit

Early varieties: 30 × 60 cm (distance between plants in a row is 30 cm, and between rows - 60 cm).

Mid-season and late varieties: 40 × 70 cm (distance between plants in a row is 40 cm, and between rows - 70 cm).

On highly fertile, including chernozem, soils are planted somewhat more spaciously: here late-ripening varieties are placed according to the 45 × 75 cm scheme.

When planting in beds, when plants are planted on it in two rows:

Early varieties: 30 × 40 cm.

Mid-season and late varieties: 40 × 50 cm.

The row spacing is 25-30 cm.

Thus, on a garden bed of 1 sq. m of area are placed 6 bushes of mid-season or late varieties.

The tallest and largest strawberry varieties, such as Gigantella, are planted even less often: 4 plants or even 3 plants are placed per square meter. If you already decided to get extremely large berries, then you need to plant spaciously.

Planting strawberries: how is it right?

This is the general strategy. It can be achieved in two ways: either immediately and plant it, trying to choose a knowingly successful strong mustache, with which there will be almost no attacks for three seasons, or first plant the mustache in a row twice as densely, after 20 cm (with constant distances between the rows), so that the first get a high enough yield, and then immediately after picking the berries, carry out the usual pulling (thinning) of the bushes to the desired rate.

Both methods of planting strawberries are good in their own way. For industrialists, the second method is considered more costly for planting material, while for a summer resident it is quite feasible. On poor soil, a dense planting of strawberries wins, and on fertile soil it is better to immediately plant at a rate, otherwise large strawberry bushes will be too crowded in the first fruiting season.

Even when choosing a solution, one should start from the size of the bushes of each variety. There are varieties of strawberries with medium-sized foliage that even recommend planting tightly first for a higher first yield, for example, mid-season variety Queen.

Our main strategy is to have an optimal planting density on an adult plantation - two enemies: lunges individual plants and excessive thickness. Both come from a beginner's inexperience. He has a way to overcome both difficulties - is to deliberately plant about twice as dense and then apply the thinning in due time.

There is a psychological side that forces beginners to create thickening of the rows: when you just plant, you involuntarily want to place everything denser than required, because the holes in the ground seem huge. When everything finally grows and closes with foliage, then there is nowhere to walk, and the plants give small berries - cramped. However, it is not in vain that a beginner is afraid inside a sparse planting: he can easily fall out of individual plants.

Thus, thinning is a lifeline for everyone who wants to hedge against unexpected attacks. But then it must be done! You cannot plant tightly, collect a high harvest in the first season, rejoice, and leave it that way. But you really want to ... It may very well happen that the first season will turn out to be fruitful for strawberries, and this always means that there are fewer attacks than usual. And then the snug fit will amaze you with its effectiveness, and you will be sure that it will remain the same in the future. It is very difficult to remove through one strong bushes, but you have to.

In general, skillfully distributing the required amount of strong plants per unit area is one of the most difficult measures, but it gives a sharp increase in the quality and quantity of the crop. I will say this: in your gardening, always count only the strongest plants and leave only them, give them room - the result will exceed your expectations.

When thinning, you will face another difficulty: ideally, you need to remove through one plant, and ideally, you need to remove weak plants and leave strong ones. How to reconcile these two requirements when the weak and the strong can grow unevenly ?! Yes, you will again want to leave thinning unfinished under the pretext of preserving strong plants, but it makes sense to overpower yourself and leave the bushes of a modest size somewhere, and somewhere sacrifice some of the strong plants, but bring at least approximately planting to the recommended rate.

Aug 29, 2018 azarova

Preparing a plot for strawberries

Under the strawberries, soil fatigue quickly occurs (the soil becomes unsuitable for strawberries, the plants get sick, the yield decreases sharply). Therefore, strawberries should be returned to their original place after at least 2 years.

It is best to plant strawberries after siderates (rapeseed, rye, mustard, phacelia, oats with peas or vetch), vegetables (greens, onions, root crops, early cabbage, legumes (if there were no soil nematodes) and phytoncidal flowers (calendula, marigolds), which intensively cleanse the soil.

If it is not possible to transplant strawberries to another place, they prepare a soil replacement - they dig out furrows 30 cm wide and deep, into which a new soil mixture is introduced (soil from a site where strawberries did not grow, as well as compost and peat).

Strawberry planting technique

The roots of strawberries do not tolerate drying out, so they are planted on a flat surface, and only in damp areas they are placed on ridges up to 20 cm high. Seedlings are planted without burying the heart (upper kidney); the roots are straightened or pruned (the first option is preferable).

Before planting, it is advisable to heavily shed furrows with water (to a depth of 15-20 cm), then plant the plants "in the mud".

Healthy strawberry seedlings do not need root stimulation during planting; they should not be treated with root formers.

With a water shortage, strawberries are watered during planting - at least 1 l / plant.

After planting, the new plant is shaded with any available materials and watered as necessary until complete survival

Fertilization

Fertilizers are applied under the previous crop. When planting on a good predecessor, additional fertilizers are not needed (since this reduces the survival rate).

If the soil is depleted, then fertilizer is applied immediately after planting, while the roots have not yet grown. For 1 m 2, 3-4 kg of light compost (in the form of mulch), 20-30 g of superphosphate and 7-10 g of potassium sulfate (better for watering) are enough.

Selection of strawberry varieties

Strawberries are a self-fertile crop, so it is enough to have one variety on the site. But in the presence of two or more varieties, the quality of pollination improves - as a result, the harvest will be guaranteed, despite possible frosts, and the period of consumption of fresh berries will be longer.

Different varieties have a different rate of reaction to adverse factors. external environment(low autumn-winter temperatures, desiccation) and various resistance to diseases and pests. Therefore, in order to always be with the berry, you should grow resistant to unfavorable conditions strawberry varieties.

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