Hello everybody. Alexander Tkachev is with you again. I continue to renovate the apartment. Immediately after the installation of the technoplex on the walls of the loggia, I made it reinforced plaster special plaster and glue mixture "Ceresit 85" good insulation, but with its own minus. The downside is its flammability. Therefore, I did not postpone the plaster for later, but began to do it immediately after the end of the installation, which I am writing about in this publication.

Since I did this work for the first time, I naturally got acquainted with the instructions for plastering Technoplex insulation.
First, what did old hacksaw blade ripped through the entire plane of the technoplex. The furrows were horizontal, without gaps. As a result, the surface of the technoplex turned out to be rough.

And the roughness contributes to good adhesion of the plaster to the technoplex, which is what we need !!!
Second what needs to be done is to glue the facade mesh to reinforce the technoplex. The task was to keep the mesh inside the plaster layer at a certain distance from the Technoplex.

Kneading plaster and glue mixture

For this I used a metal toothed float. I apply the mixed adhesive mixture on the wall in a strip to the width of a 1m roll of mesh. and about 1cm thick. Then I make a comb with a notched float.

In this case, a notched trowel with a tooth height of 8mm was used. Next, I apply the mesh to the comb and smooth side graters press this mesh evenly over the entire area.

So, I'm doing it meter by meter until the entire wall is covered with this mesh to reinforce the technoplex. In this case, the mesh will be embedded in the adhesive mixture at a distance of 3-5mm. from the surface of the technoplex. And this is enough for the mesh to work like an armature, and not like a simple layer !!!
Third what we need to do is install beacons,

and of course plaster on the lighthouses. We can read how to install beacons. After the lighthouses have dried so much that the rule will not push them, you can start the plaster itself. The actual plaster consists in mixing the plaster and glue mixture according to the instructions. Then any in an accessible way distribute this mixture between the beacons (it sticks to the plexus easily), and pull it off with the rule.

If after the rule there are pits, then we again fill it with a solution and tighten it, achieving a flat surface. The next day, the lighthouses are pulled out. Lighthouse gates are sealed with the same solution.

After our plaster has hardened, we grout the entire plane with a metal float using the same mixture

And after complete drying of the plaster is ready for further finishing works... But there will be a new publication about this, and therefore:

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Alexander Tkachev was with you. All the best.

Cold weather is approaching, and more and more often we begin to think about how best to insulate our house. Penoplex is one of the best options: it is easy to use, affordable and has excellent qualities... When insulating the facade of a house with penoplex, do not forget to apply a protective layer of plaster, which will protect your insulation from weather and mechanical damage.

How to plaster penoplex?

First, let's figure out what mixtures are used for plastering foam. Most often for this purpose, universal mixtures are purchased from such leading manufacturers as Ceresit, Ecomix, Stolit. We prepare the mixture, strictly following the instructions, the only nuance that should be taken into account is the consistency. For gluing plaster mesh, the consistency of the mixture should be slightly thinner than the manufacturer advises.

For the leveling layer, the mixture is made so liquid that it practically flows off the trowel. For gluing the mesh, approximately 4 kg of the mixture is consumed per square meter. The leveling layer requires 6 kg of mix per square meter.
When your solution is ready, you can proceed directly to the plastering process itself.

Penoplex plaster, process

Wall plastering is a process that involves starting the walls and leveling them using wet mixes. The work process itself can be divided into several stages.

Stage one. Preparation.

At this stage of work, you should make a thorough grouting of the foam in order to avoid any irregularities and depressions and bumps. You should not rush, because the success of the whole process will depend on how well you do your job.

Second phase. Bonding plaster mesh - reinforcement. This is very important stage and if you skip it, then in the future a layer of plaster applied directly to the penoplex, without the use of a facade mesh, will undergo various cracks and will be short-lived.
On the prepared surface of the penoplex, apply a layer of adhesive mixture, no more than 2-3 ml thick, and glue the mesh onto it.

Do not forget about some of the nuances that are very important when performing the work of this stage:
- the mesh should be pressed into the applied universal compound no more than half, while the entire mesh surface should be completely immersed in the adhesive mixture. The mixture should be applied in stages. This is usually done in strips no more than one meter wide ( standard width facade mesh);
- the facade mesh should be glued only to a fresh composition, while it should be trampled down with a smooth trowel;
- the strips should overlap each other. The allowance must be made at least 10 cm. Particular attention must be paid to pasting the corners, from which it is advised to start work on reinforcement. In order to properly glue the corners, take a strip 30 cm wide and about a meter long, bend it in half to form a clear ridge in the middle, and in this state, attach it to the corner and press it into the adhesive composition.

Fourth stage. After your reinforcement layer is completely dry, you need to take care of grouting over the entire surface of the facade mesh. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a plastic grater with an emery cloth.

It is important to remember that that the drying time of the mixture varies depending on the weather conditions, therefore, on a hot summer day, it is enough to wait only two or three hours and start grouting. In the cold season, it is better not to risk it and give at least one day to dry the mixture.

Rub in a circular motion, without using for this special efforts... The direction of movement is counterclockwise.

Fifth stage: apply a leveling layer. For this purpose, the same universal mixture is used as for reinforcement. Apply the mixture with a spatula, evenly distributing it over the entire surface. In this case, the thickness of the layer should not exceed three millimeters.

Sixth stage. Finalization
This stage is the final one in the process of plastering the foam. It consists in grouting the entire surface. This should be done in the same way as grouting the reinforcing layer, and also only after the leveling layer is completely dry. Here it is important to remember the drying time of the mixture.
Grouting should be started at the end of one day. In the cold season, you can give extra time. It is also not worth delaying the process, since usually at the end of four days the mixture can harden so much that it will simply be impossible to grout.

After you have completely rubbed the surface of the walls, the plastering process will be completely completed and you can proceed to the next type of work - putty.

Can Penoplex be putty?

Putty is the finishing of walls using special putty mixtures. Most often, for these works, acrylic or powder putty is used, designed for facade works.

What finishing fillers are there?

All the putties of the Ceresit brand have proven themselves the most, but if you trust another manufacturer, you can also use putties from another company. The putty should be selected based on the surface on which it will be applied. For wall putty, there are both powder mixtures and pasty ones. Paste mixtures, in turn, are subdivided into acrylic, adhesive, silicone, latex, oil and combined. For penoplex, acrylic and powdery putty has proven itself well.

When choosing a putty mixture for facade work, first of all, you need to pay attention to the binders in it, and how high-quality these substances are. Depending on the quality of the bonding element, the putty can be very resistant or, conversely, unstable to various weather conditions: cold, damp, heat, frost.
So, for example, if later you plan to paint the facade, then you can use a good quality Ceresit CT-225 putty, which is a good base for painting and has such qualities as frost resistance, impact resistance and moisture resistance. Having picked up a high-quality putty, you can be sure that over time your finish will not crack or crumble.

Also, when choosing a putty for your facade, consult with the seller so that he can help you choose the one that is moisture resistant and not afraid of temperature changes, otherwise you will simply waste money and time on outdoor work. It is important to remember that those putties that are intended for internal works, are completely unsuitable for the facade, so do not save money so that you do not have to redo the work.

The process of applying putty on the wall. Putty preparation

If you decide to use a powder putty, then first it should be diluted. To do this, put water in a bucket (a little less than half) and carefully pour in the powder, stirring continuously with a mixer. The consistency should be roughly similar to mashed potatoes.
After the mixture reaches the desired consistency, it should be left in a calm state for 5 minutes, and then beat again and you can start working. Acrylic plaster is applied to the wall immediately without preliminary preparation.

The process of applying putty on the wall

To apply the filler, use a very wide spatula, on which the mixture is placed with a small, narrow spatula that fits freely in the bucket. At finishing it is very important that each new finish area merges with the previous one, previously putty. The joints should be almost invisible, so if you are not sure of your skills, then it is better to invite a specialist for this work, who will do everything quickly and efficiently.

Before applying the putty, do not forget to treat the wall with a special primer, which will give additional waterproofing... The layer of putty to be applied should not exceed 5 ml; after it has completely dried, the entire surface should be trowelled. Rub in a circular motion counterclockwise, using an abrasive mesh. Do not forget that grouting should be done no earlier than 3-4 hours after applying the mixture. After finishing grouting, you need to apply a primer again, this will help get rid of dust particles on the surface of the walls and make the surface of the facade perfectly flat.

Upon completion of the drying of the primer, the next process of work begins - painting.

Can Penoplex be painted? How to paint?

The finishing of the insulation will be more durable and aesthetically pleasing if it is subjected to the dyeing process. But be careful: not all putties benefit from staining, so read the instructions on the packaging of the applied putty.
In the instructions, you probably should find all the answers to your questions: is it possible to use paint, and what composition should the paint have in order to ideally match your putty. When choosing a paint, one should also take into account the chemical characteristics of the insulation itself, since not all paint is suitable for penoplex. Only if you choose the right paint, taking into account all the nuances, your facade will be durable and of high quality.

Choice of paint

Some facade paints capable of destroying penoplex, so the choice should be made, guided, first of all, by physical and chemical characteristics insulation and paint.

Which paints should you not choose?

For penoplex, paints that contain the following substances are not suitable: benzene, toluene, xylene, acetone, coal and polyester resins, gasoline, kerosene, drying oil.

When dyeing penoplex, in no case use solvents such as acetone, kerosene, gasoline, white spirit, all these substances practically corrode the insulation.

Penoplex paints
1. Mineral paints. They contain lime and cement, which are absolutely safe for insulation, and therefore they can and should be used. Mineral paints do not contain any of harmful substances, so that the finishing of the facade of the building will not suffer at all.
2. Facade material based on silicate glass. The composition of this material also does not pose any threat to the decoration of the building and, of course, to the insulation.
3. Water-based paint for external works... Paints in this category are also not prohibited for penoplex, the only nuance worth remembering when choosing a water-based paint is that it should be designed specifically for facade work, only in this case it will be highly resistant to moisture and other weather influences.

Water-based paints have the following advantages:

- one of the most significant advantages is their environmental friendliness. They are completely safe for the human body, so no additional precautions are required when working with them;
- the surface covered with them has increased resistance to aggressive factors external environment;
- have a water-repellent effect;
- are resistant to dirt;
- low level of water absorption, this advantage is also a very significant factor when choosing a paint for penoplex;
- a large assortment colors, which makes it possible to paint the facade of the house in any color and shade;
- low cost. Thanks to this advantage water-based paints become more in demand;
- the ratio of price and quality is also a decisive factor when choosing a paint.

Important! If you decide to carry out the work on plastering, plastering and painting of the facade insulated with penoplex on your own, do not forget about all the recommendations given in this article, or consult a specialist who will certainly help you choose mixtures, paint and putty that meets all the necessary requirements.

Video "Penoplex plaster"

The facade of any house requires high-quality finishing. It not only gives the building an attractive appearance, but also protects from various adverse influences of the surrounding world - from precipitation and direct sunlight.

To give the building an aesthetic appearance and protect the building, it is worth using.

Species of this material there are many, the choice can be made based on different parameters.

For example, if the front of the building is covered with foam, it is worth purchasing just such a plaster for the foam.

The coating of such a plan is a high-quality finishing hardened layer, which is formed on the basis of a special plaster mortar, intended for finishing the facade parts of buildings and structures.

Important! Properly selected and applied plaster allows you to effectively level the surface of external walls, potholes and numerous cracks can be repaired, as well as to protect the building and give it a look that fully suits individual taste preferences.

Modern facade plasters are in great demand, as they are characterized by this cover big amount positive qualities and properties.

Among them, we can note such advantages as:

1. High strength indicators... Facade plaster is a special shell of the house, thanks to its qualities, it ideally protects the structure from adverse factors.
2. Frost resistance- this is important advantage for most regions of the country. This indicator must be taken into account, since when frost sets in, the coating will simply crack. Facade plaster for penoplex is able to withstand temperatures up to minus 50 degrees.
3. Lifetime... The plastering process is quite complicated, but all the time and money spent is fully paid off by the optimal durability of the material. Average facade plaster able to serve up to 15 years.
4. Vapor permeability- the ability to remove condensate. This prevents the process of deterioration of the finish, as well as the formation of mold and mildew.
5. Easy to install and maintain... If desired, you can apply the plaster yourself, and no special care is required for the material.

Thanks to all the advantages listed above, the plaster not only fits perfectly on the penoplex, but also performs all its decorative and protective functions.

Facade plaster on penoplex and expanded polystyrene - types and features

When building private country houses special heaters are used without fail. Among a large number modern materials special attention deserves penoplex. It is distinguished by its ease of use and is realized at an affordable cost.

Despite these high quality characteristics, even penoplex needs some protection. For this purpose, a special plaster from such manufacturers as "", "Ecomix", "Stolit" is used.

These compositions are actually high level perform the following rather important functions:

• Effective moisture protection. Plaster, due to its qualities and properties, protects the insulation from destruction;
• Protection of penoplex from the adverse effects of sunlight;
• Significant improvement in overall appearance building.

As for manufacturers, it is not worth using different mixtures to cover the same building, since each of them may have a different composition, which will lead to a decrease in overall quality cover.

Universal plaster is consumed as economically as possible from 4 kg / m2 for gluing reinforced mesh and up to about 6 kg / m2 for a full leveling of the outer walls of the building.

The mixture must be diluted sufficiently liquid, it must drain from the spatula. At the beginning of the work, a solution is prepared, after which you can proceed to gluing the mesh itself, on which the penoplex plaster will be installed.

Surface preparation for application

The process of plastering foam is preceded by certain preparatory work. The surface must be carefully leveled, and this can be done by grouting.

With a well-executed process, you can effectively remove all the bumps and pits. It is at the grouting stage that the surface of the outer walls must be very carefully worked out. This is very important requirement, since after applying the plaster, all the problems and defects left will open to the eye.

Mesh work

After grouting, fastening work is carried out. This is an important and obligatory stage in the plastering performed, since without a mesh, the plaster will quickly crack or just slip... At this stage, you can use a mesh that is designed specifically for facade work. The net weight should be between 140 and 160 g / m2 on average.

It is the density of the mesh that directly depends on how even the plaster layer will be.... In other words, the higher the density, the better and smoother the plaster layer will be.

NOTE!

The mesh for facade work must be used alkali-resistant, since cement is often present at the base of the foam.

The acquired mesh is attached using a special adhesive mixture, which is applied with a thickness of 2-3 mm... The composition is simply applied to the surface and the reinforcing mesh itself is immediately applied.

The product must be pressed into the composition by about half, that is glue mixture must completely cover the surface of the mesh. The glue must be applied gradually, it is important that it has time to fully grab, the mesh itself is attached in small sections.

The mesh must be pressed down with a smooth spatula during application. In this case, the strips must be glued strictly with an overlap, and not less than 10 cm. Everything must be glued very carefully, since non-glued compositions or applying the composition only to the joints will appear even through the finishing.

Surface leveling

As soon as the mesh layer is completely dry, the surface can be trowelled. Here, a specially prepared sandpaper or a construction float is used.

This should be done after the coating is completely dry.... The time for this cavity drying depends on the weather. The higher the temperature and the drier the air, the faster the applied plaster will dry.

If the work is carried out in summer time, on average it can take up to three hours... If the finishing of the building is carried out in the cold season, you can start grouting in about a day.

In any case, no rush is required, as the plaster will not the right quality and appearance. The grout itself is carried out without any effort, it is enough to carry out special circular movements and, moreover, counterclockwise. The process ends after all defects are completely smoothed out.

After that, the surface is leveled and another layer is applied. plaster mix... Penoplex plaster is made using the same mixture as in the previous stages. When carrying out these processes, it is necessary to use a spatula with which the mixture will be applied. The plaster layer should be approximately 3 mm thick.

At the end of these works, the final grout is carried out. It begins only after the previous layer has completely dried, this is no less than a day after the last layer has completely frozen.

CAREFULLY!

While waiting for it to dry completely, you should not go to extremes, since you have to wait more than four days, the coating will become very hard, therefore, it will be very difficult to process it.

Facade plastering technology for insulation

If, in the process of finishing the outer walls, it was decided to use a powder putty, first it will need to be thoroughly diluted. To do this, approximately half of the water is collected in the bucket and the powder is carefully poured. In the process of falling asleep, you need to constantly use a special construction mixer. As a result of the work carried out, the mixture should become similar to mashed potatoes.

Once the mixture has acquired the desired consistency, it should be left for about 5 minutes and it is desirable that it be calm. After that, everything is whipped and you can immediately start working. If used, it can be applied to the wall without carrying out any preparatory processes.

There are certain tips to follow here:

1. When applying putty, you need to use a wide spatula, on which the mixture is placed using a small and narrow spatula, which is placed in a bucket.
2. It is very important to ensure that the new finish is completely merged with the previously treated one.
3. Care must be taken to ensure that all joints are invisible.
4. Before applying the putty, do not forget to treat the wall with a special primer. It is she who provides additional waterproofing.
5. The layer thickness should not be more than 5 mm.
6. After the layer has dried, it must also be completely wiped off. This process should be carried out no earlier than 3 hours after the mixture was applied.

After carrying out work related to the putty, you need to apply a primer. With the help of this composition, you can effectively remove all dust particles that may be present on the surface of the walls and make the surface as smooth as possible. At the end of these works, you can start painting.

Surface painting

To give the walls the most complete look, many owners. The most important thing to consider here is the type of pre-applied filler. There must be compatibility between it and the paint.

It is very important to avoid paint formulations that contain components such as:

• Acetone;
• Benzene;
• Xylene;
• Toluene;
• Drying oil;
• Resin;
• Coal tar.

These are components that are quite common for painting materials, but their use is unacceptable, since each of them is capable of destroying penoplex. The best option for painting walls insulated with foam are paints made on the basis of minerals.

They are made from lime or cement, and these components, as you know, do not have the property of reacting with insulation. Silicate paints are also suitable, which do not harm the penoplex. Fit equally effectively Decoration Materials, which belong to the category of water-based emulsion.

Also, it should be exactly facade paints, since they are characterized by high rates reliability and resistance to adverse weather conditions.

Useful video

Master class on applying plaster to the surface of the insulation:

Summing up

If it was decided to carry out work on plastering, the subsequent putty of the facade and its painting to be carried out independently, you should definitely follow all the tips and recommendations presented to your attention. It will not be superfluous to consult a professional who will help you choose the best suitable mixture, putty and paint. All compounds used must necessarily comply with the established requirements.

In contact with

Expanded polystyrene plates can, perhaps, be considered the most the best option insulation for external walls. Judge for yourself: it is not blown by the wind, it is not afraid of rodents, it practically does not absorb moisture. And yet, it has sufficient rigidity to plaster the walls lined with it.

How to plaster penoplex from the outside, and what is the essence of this technology in general? You will learn about this from the video in this article, which is a visual application to its theoretical part.

Advantages and characteristics of penoplex

The main advantage of Penoplex Wall insulation, which you see in the photo below, is a low thermal conductivity coefficient, which does not exceed 0.03 W / M * 0С. Moreover, its compressive strength is 0.20 kgf / cm2, and its density is at least 25 kg / m3.

So:

• Low vapor permeability, with which only materials based on foamed polyethylene (penofol, isolon) can be compared, allows you to lower such technological operation how installation vapor barrier films... Since Penoplex does not corrode, its service life is at least half a century.

• The structure of the plates is homogeneous, with evenly distributed pores, which greatly increases the strength of the material. But at the same time, it can be easily cut with a clerical knife, which makes it possible for any owner to insulate the house with his own hands.
• It is due to its high density that wall polystyrene foam does not change its geometric parameters over time, and it can be used as a base for plastering. Its resistance to moisture allows the installation of panels on the facade in any weather.

Penoplex sheets have standard size 1200 * 600 mm. At the same time, the thickness can vary within 30-100 mm, which determines its price. It is sold in packages, in which the number of plates depends on their thickness. The package contains 14 plates with a thickness of 30 mm, and it costs 4900-5000 rubles.

What is needed for insulation plaster

For the installation of penoplex, some devices are needed, for plaster - others. Therefore, in order to plaster walls on insulation, a fairly large list is being typed. Let's consider what is included in it.

Tools and supplies

To perform measurements and control of planes, you need a tape measure; metal square; plumb line; two-meter bubble, and water levels. To prepare surfaces, use a steel brush, a brush, which is also useful for applying a primer, as well as masking tape and polyethylene, which is used to cover window blocks and doors.

You will need:

• Rotary hammer or drill with drills and a "mixer" nozzle, you will need both for drilling holes in the walls and for mixing glue and plaster mixture. A hammer in the form of a pick is used both in the preparation process and for driving dowels into the holes.

• For fixing the heat-insulating plates, not ordinary dowel-nails are used., and the dowel-fungi, which are also called disc-shaped. They have a wide flat head that does not allow the fasteners to "sink" into the thickness of the slab. You should take fasteners with a diameter of 10 mm, but the length of the dowel is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. Since it should exceed the length of the material to be strengthened by 30 mm in length, then for a heater with a thickness of 50 mm, a dowel with a length of 80 mm is needed. They are sold in packs of 1000 pieces, although the price is per piece (8-10 rubles). To tighten the dowel cores, you must have a screwdriver or a corresponding drill attachment.
• Plates are cut either with a knife with a blade length of at least 250 mm, or a fine-toothed universal hacksaw. It is also necessary to have in your arsenal two types of scissors: for metal, for cutting a basement profile, and simple ones, for cutting a fiberglass mesh.

Note! Mesh with a mesh of 4 * 4 or 5 * 5 mm, is used to reinforce the screed, which will become the basis for the finishing layer. It is sold in rolls of 50m, and, depending on the width, costs between 1900-2500 rubles. When buying a mesh, you need to pay attention that the label says: "front", since there are also painting and plastering options that are not suitable for the facade.

• List Supplies must replenish the basement profile, which in this case plays the role of a starting bar, and serves as a support for the first row of insulation. To connect its ends, special connecting elements are needed. To adjoin the mesh to the door and window openings was of high quality, the abutment profile is used.

• To protect the corners of the house from mechanical damage, plaster corners with a mesh are needed, and for leveling the profiles along the plane - plastic expansion joints. Since the penoplex is fastened not only with dowels, but also set on glue, accordingly, you will have to buy glue for the insulation, and a water-dispersion primer that will strengthen the base base.
• But for the installation of the mesh, you need not glue, but an adhesive putty... For the best adhesion of the finishing layer of plaster, with the reinforcing layer, it is necessary to use a primer - a primer, which should be selected for the type of solution that will be applied to it. By the way, about the decorative layer: most often, so-called warm plasters are used for this purpose.

And they call them that because they contain materials as a filler that are raw materials for the manufacture of insulation. These are beads of foamed glass, perlite, vermiculite - and the same polystyrene, only granular. Such plaster itself is thermal insulation material, and thus improves the heating technology of the facade as a whole.

As for the tools for applying mixtures, you will need the usual arsenal of plasterers: a set of spatulas, including a notched one, by means of which glue is applied to the plates; straight and corner trowels; graters made of stainless steel and plastic; as well as an aluminum rule, a roller, and a sanding block (see Tool for plastering walls: what you need to work).

Tools that are considered general construction are available in almost every home, and what is not, you will have to buy or borrow. But about consumables, you can not bother, but purchase a warm plastering system from the manufacturer. In this case, you will be offered a kit that contains everything - from mounting profiles to dry plaster mix.

Plastering process

So, let's figure out how the facade plastering is performed on the penoplex. As always, work begins with defining the geometry of the facade and preparing the surface of the walls. Those who do not believe that it takes time to do this are greatly mistaken.

Where the foundation is not properly prepared, problems begin first of all:

• To expanded polystyrene plates well adhered to the walls, there should be no dust or sagging on their surface masonry mortar, no leftovers old plaster... Any stains: mastics, rust, mold are also removed. But the surface should be not only clean, but also flat.
• This is very important, since on walls with bumps and depressions, too large joints between the thermal insulation boards will turn out. So if there is a curve at the base Brick wall, then it should be leveled with cement plaster, allowed to dry, and only then proceed with the installation of the plates.

Thermal insulation of the house from the side of the facade or from the inside allows you to save on the consumption of heat carriers when autonomous heating and retains heat during main supply hot water... On the facade, insulation protects the walls of the house, creating a barrier between dampness and bricks or silicate blocks. One of popular heaters is Penoplex, which is inexpensive and retains heat well in the building.

Insulation protects walls from moisture and cold, but thermal insulation also needs protection, for which mesh and plaster are used. We will describe below how to plaster Penoplex with our own hands.

Preparation for work

Before plastering the thermal insulation, prepare necessary tool and materials. You will need:

• - Mesh for reinforcement,
• - Metal spatulas / half-scrapers,
• - Grater for abrasive,
• - Large emery,
• - Plaster.

We recommend ROCKfiber facade mesh SSA 1363-4SM - it has been tested in operation and will not cause problems. The mesh has a fiberglass base and is impregnated with alkali-resistant polymers. The size of the cell is 4x4 mm with a density of 140-160 g / m2, the width of the roll is 110 cm, and the length is 50 meters. When buying a mesh, keep in mind that it is attached to the plaster (glue) with an overlap, so the roll takes 42-45 m2 of walls.

Metal trowels or half-trowels choose different lengths- one solution is applied to the wall, the other is fed to the main tool. The optimal length is 30-50 cm and 8-15 cm.

The grater is useful for rough sanding of the main layer of plaster, the emery must be large, otherwise it will quickly be erased.

• - passes steam,
• - Keeps mechanical stress and frost,
• - Complies with environmental requirements.

CT 85 contains reinforcing fibers that give the adhesive strength and elasticity.

Penoplex reinforcement is required, otherwise the mixture will fall off the wall. To fix the mesh, the mixture is kneaded to a medium consistency and applied to the surface with a layer of up to 3 mm. Passes are not allowed. A reinforcing mesh is applied on top of the glue and pressed with a spatula with movements from bottom to top. ROCKfiber or equivalent is pressed into the adhesive, but do not press down the mesh until it is insulated.

The interval between applying glue and gluing the mesh is up to 20 minutes, if the work is carried out on the sunny side and it is not possible to install a canopy, then the time is reduced to 7-8 minutes - the less / the better.

The next sheet of mesh is glued end-to-end, capturing the previous one by 10-15 cm.

For clarity, a short video:

Priming

Unlike classical plaster, the layer of soil for Penoplex plaster is 2-3 mm. Its task is to hide traces of reinforcement on the surface and prepare the wall for putty or finishing grinding.

Primer is applied to Penoplex after the first layer has set and the wall is roughly abraded with an abrasive. Scraping is optional but helps to reduce the amount of adhesive used on the ground. At a temperature of 20 gr. and average humidity, the leveling primer is applied after 6-12 hours (the setting speed also depends on the absorption of the wall material).

The primer is applied with the same spatulas or polishers that were used to fasten the mesh. The consistency of the plaster is thicker than when the reinforcing layer is fixed.

Grinding

It is necessary to plaster Penoplex with a third layer under the putty, if you plan to apply decorative Bark beetle, then this stage is skipped. The task of grinding is the perfect alignment of the texture of the wall. This will reduce the consumption of putty and speed up the work at the finish.

Finishing Ceresit CT 85 is made more liquid and applied 24 hours after the primer with a layer of 1-2 mm. The range of motion of the instrument is wide. After the completion of the plaster, there are no minor defects on the wall, the surface takes on a mirror-like appearance, like a cat's eggs, in the language of builders.

The technology is suitable for indoor and outdoor use.

Putting putty or Bark beetle is allowed in 2-4 days, after Penoplex has completely dried.