The final stage in laying tiles is jointing (grouting. This ensures a beautiful appearance of the laid tiles, as well as gives it waterproofing properties. Most modern grouting also have anti-fungal properties, which is important for wet rooms.

You will need.
Grout (cement, silicone or epoxy);
Capacity for diluting grout;
Masking tape (for working with silicone or epoxy grout);
Rubber spatula for planing;
Foam sponge and water container;
Protective gloves.

Instruction.
1.First, the surface must be prepared for planing. To do this, you need to wait until the tile glue is completely dry, then clean the seams from dust and debris that could get into them (this is especially important for floor tiles... It is best to vacuum the seams to clean them, and wipe the tiles with a damp cloth or sponge to remove dust. 2. If you use a cement grout, then first you need to dilute it with water. To do this, pour dry grout into a container, then add the right amount water (the ratio of the mixture and water is indicated by the manufacturer on the package. Dry cement grout has a very fine fraction, almost like a powder, so you need to stir it for a long time and thoroughly. At first, the powder will float on the surface of the water and not mix with it, then gradually the dough will begin ". Make sure that there are no lumps left, otherwise the seam will be untidy and the grout will not be able to fully provide waterproofing. 3. Unlike cement grout, silicone and epoxy mixtures are sold ready-to-use, so you just need to open the package and get to work. 4. The easiest way is to fill the joints with cement grout. rubber spatula for jointing and lay the mixture into the joint so that all voids are filled. Part of the mixture will smear over the tile, and there will be surpluses on the seam. It's okay, as it should be, since this is the initial stage. Next, you need to remove the excess with a rubber spatula. To do this, place the trowel across the seam, tilting slightly towards the direction of travel, and push along the seam with pressure. After that, the grout in the joint will be flush with the tile or slightly lower, due to the rounded edges of the tile and the softness of the rubber trowel. Now you can either leave it that way, or make the seam a little more embossed if this suits your idea. To deepen the seam, simply insert the trowel into the seam to the desired depth and slide over the seam to remove excess. 5.when working with silicone and epoxy grout there is a problem of subsequent cleaning of the tiles from the smeared excess of the mixture. These types of jointing are very difficult to remove from the surface, especially if the tile is unglazed or with a relief surface structure. Therefore, it is necessary to work with these types of grout carefully, and the tiles along the edges of the seams must be sealed with masking tape. The principle of operation is the same as with a cement grout: put the mixture into the seam, remove the excess, deepen the seam if desired. 6. When the grout is completely dry, the tiles must be cleaned of excess. In the case of cement grout, you need to scrub all the tiles with a damp sponge, and if you are working with silicone or epoxy, remove the stained masking tape pasted near the seams. Real estate construction renovation.

How to join floor tiles. Sequence of grouting

Knowing how to properly grind the seams on the tiles, you can try to avoid the most common mistakes. If you need to perform this operation yourself, it is useful to first prepare all the necessary tools for this. You will need a container in which the solution will be diluted, a small rubber spatula, an ordinary foam sponge, a molar brush. For beginners, an ordinary pastry bag will help to make high-quality grouting. The algorithm for performing the work is as follows:

1. First, the seams are carefully cleaned from dust and dirt.
2. Then they are pretreated with antifungal compounds. If the tiles are tiled in the bathroom, the use of such compounds becomes mandatory.
3. To ensure better adhesion of the fugue to the material, it is necessary to moisten the seams with a brush with water.
4. Further, according to the instructions, a small portion of the grouting fugue is diluted. If the inter-seam space is large, you can place the finished mastic in a pastry bag and use it to try to fill the space between the tiles evenly and very neatly. In the case when the space between adjacent tiles is only a few millimeters, it is better to grout the tile joints with a small rubber trowel. It is important to try to compact the mastic tightly, to make sure that the grouting compound completely fills the inter-tile space.
5. Excess grout is immediately removed with a rubber trowel.
6. When the applied composition dries slightly, it is important to soak it well with a damp sponge. Otherwise, it will quickly dry out and become covered with cracks.

How to properly join the tiles on the floor. How to properly join the tiles

Preparation of seams

The grouting process is allowed only after at least a day after laying. ceramic tiles since jointing involves a certain physical effect on the seam. It is also imperative to moisten the seams by running a foam sponge soaked in water over them. If there is a solution in the seams, then using a thin metal object(for example, a nail), it is removed, like the tile crosses.

Tip: the surface of the tiles along the seams is sealed with masking tape - this is especially necessary for tiles with a relief pattern, into which excess grout can be crammed. And it will be very difficult to remove it from there.

Grout preparation

If a ready-made mixture is used to join the tiles on the wall and on the floor, then this step is skipped. The dry solution is mixed with water in proportions according to the instructions.

Tip: if you have little or no experience with a grout, do not stir a large volume. Since the mixture quickly solidifies, then it is necessary to work with it at an appropriate speed.

The composition is thoroughly mixed, after which it is left for a few minutes so that the mixture can infuse. Then you should stir again and then start grouting.

Jointing procedure

The ready-made solution is placed in a container convenient for holding in one hand, a spatula is taken in the other hand, with which the fugue is scooped up. Move the trowel perpendicular to the seam, holding the tool at a slight angle. In this position, pressure is exerted on the grout, due to which it is literally pressed into the seam, which enhances the adhesion and gives the grout the desired thickness.

Tip: If you decide not to use masking tape, keep a damp foam sponge on hand to immediately remove excess fugue. But without touching the seam!

You can also make circular movements with a trowel, for example for planing large areas. However, this technique is allowed only for ceramic tiles that do not have a relief pattern.

Removing grout

Excess fugue along the seams is removed at the same time as it is applied. Experts advise, especially if a silicone grout is used, to follow the “one square meter” rule: after grouting such an area, immediately expose it to cleaning. The seams themselves are processed the next day.

How to join floor tiles. Jointing floor tiles

We are done with the probe and now we will look at how to join a real floor tile.

At the beginning, you need to thoroughly clean the seams from the remnants of glue, but it can happen that in some places the glue has time to set. It is dangerous to clean it mechanically. To do this, you can look in the store for a special alkaline agent to remove dirt from tiles. Now I will demonstrate on small example how it works. The product is applied with a cotton swab to the dirt.

It also does a good job of cleaning seams.

After using chemistry, be sure to wash it off and then moisten the seams.

You can use the same rubber trowel to apply the joint to the seams of the floor tiles.

Also on sale are special graters with handles. They allow you to cover a large surface area in one go.

Now I'm showing you how to close a deep floor seam. With this movement, I push the fugue as deep as possible.

I would like to draw your attention to the following: to work the seam to its full depth, the fugue should not be too thick.

As with the probe, we use diagonal movements at the end of the fugue application.

The same technique is used for the different floor holes that need to be planed.

Fugue should be entered to the full depth of the cleaned cavities.

This technique will make the seams more durable, and they will not crumble.

I advise you not to disturb the worn seams of the floor tiles for several days. I will add that grouting on cement base gain their initial strength in no less than two weeks.

Often, home craftsmen are interested in why grouting is needed between tiles on the floor and on the wall. The fact is that according to the laying technology, when arranging the cladding floor surface between separate fragments it is necessary to leave space at the junction. On average, this parameter, according to standards and norms, should be 2-5 millimeters.

The size of the joint largely depends on the size of the tile - the larger it is, the wider the distance between adjacent elements can be.

Grouting of the joints of the fragments is done for a number of reasons:

1. Walls often shrink, as a result of which the tiles begin to shift, albeit a little, which means that they need space to move.
2. Due to the presence of cracks, the wall can breathe through them.
3. Floor tile grout protects walls and floors in kitchens and bathrooms from excess moisture. If this is not done, pathogenic fungi will begin to multiply in the seams between the fragments and mold will appear, and dirt will collect at the joints, which will not be easy to remove.
4. Also, grout improves adhesion between tiles and performs a decorative function. The joints, evenly and neatly decorated, look aesthetically pleasing, while at the same time masking small defects (notches, chips) present along the edges of the tiles.
5. The duration of the operation of the coating without repair depends on how the grouting of the floor tiles is done with your own hands.

The most common method is using a rubber spatula. Since it will not be necessary to work all over the territory immediately, but to process the tiles literally according to square meter, experts recommend immediately before the process itself to moisten a couple of "squares" with water again. In general, professionals process 2-3 sq. m in twenty minutes. A beginner master will not be able to achieve such speed, but this is not so important either. The main thing here is accuracy and careful adherence to technology. Well, the fact that you finish work an hour or two later does not really matter.

So how do you properly trowel the tiles? Apply the joint on a rubber trowel and begin to fill the seams in diagonal movements. Moreover, you do not just coat from above, but try to press the composition in, so that it fills the seam completely. Remove excess with the same spatula. At the same time, make sure that the filled seam level coincides with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any depressions or voids, be sure to immediately add a fugue there. Since you need to grind the tiles on the floor in stages, work in this way for about half an hour. After that, start cleaning the grout area.

To do this, arm yourself with a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, run the foam rubber over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove the excess from the tiles themselves and the seams. If streaks remain on the tiles, it's not scary. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugue on the ceramics. It will not be so easy to remove it later. After you have treated one area, proceed to the next. And so on until all the seams are overwritten.

Grout is a homogeneous dry or already diluted to a pasty mixture made on the basis of polymers or white and gray cement. Some of the grouting compounds are available only in white or gray, and tint dyes are added only before the start of work, others are produced already in finished color options... A correctly selected grout color can help to unite the tiles into one plane or, conversely, to highlight the elements, emphasizing their shape, or to frame them with a color similar in tone, darker or, conversely, lightened. Therefore, the choice of the tint option will depend on what effect is to be achieved upon completion of the work.

The color of the grout is important, but the criteria for assessing the quality of the material, its protective properties should always be in the first place

The direct purpose of the grouting mixture is to prevent it from getting into the seams, and from there - and under decorative coating moisture (direct or from an increased content of it in the air), garbage, dust, from the penetration of various insects, sometimes ready to take a liking to voids for their nests, as well as from the development of microflora colonies in this space. Without the use of this material, the tiles will not stay on the wall or floor surfaces for a long time and will begin to separate from them. And this, in turn, means that the repair will very soon have to be repeated, having spent a decent amount on it.

The quality of the material should always come first, ahead of even decorative features grouting. Carelessness in this matter can lead to dire results. For example, you should know that if mold or mildew managed to penetrate into the gaps between the tiles and take root there, then it will be extremely difficult to get rid of them, since this "disease" quickly takes over space and can even penetrate the pores of the walls.

Choose material from trusted brands only and avoid cheap fakes!

Therefore, when choosing a grout mixture, it is necessary to pay attention to the manufacturer's brand and purchase only that material that has won a steady reputation for quality among consumers.

You have made a beautiful renovation, laid tiles or porcelain stoneware on the floor, and now the final touch remains - buy a suitable grout and finish what you started. A few tips from professional tilers will help you arrange the seams beautifully and neatly so that the floor looks like new even after 5-7 years.

Types of grout for floor tiles

Since the premises can be used in different ways, different requirements are imposed on the grout (fugue). For example, for swimming pools, bathrooms, laundries, it is important that the floor is resistant to moisture and water, so that mold and mildew cannot catch on and ruin a beautiful tile carpet. V living rooms housewives want dust not to rise from the floor. And for the hallways, it is important that dirt does not get clogged in the pores of the grout.

• Cement. The mixture is based on white cement and sand. The solution is not plastic. Set quickly. Sold as a dry powder that must be diluted with water before use. The proportions are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. When working, you need to use "petals" to protect the respiratory system from fine cement dust. So that the fugue does not absorb moisture and does not become covered with fungus, after the solution has dried, the seams are treated with a water-repellent impregnation.
• Polymeric. It is made on the basis of a silicone mixture. Elastic, not afraid of water. Good for natural stone, porcelain stoneware, as well as for floors under which the heating system is mounted. The joints tolerate thermal expansion and contraction of the tile well. Also used for finishing so-called seamless tiles. It is applied through a gun directly into the seam. The edges of the tiles are protected with masking tape, because the fugue has high adhesion.
• Epoxy. One of the most durable. Can be used for cladding industrial premises... Resistant to weather conditions. Good for loggias and balconies. Mold and mildew do not live on it. She is not afraid of water. Sticks tightly. Resistant to abrasion. Sold as two ingredients that must be mixed just before use. Set quickly.
• Polyurethane. The ready-to-use polymer mixture provides reliable protection from moisture. Elastic. It can be used for tiles laid on "warm floors".

Correct grouting of tiles. Tile grouting process

Correct Tile Grouting Process

After you have prepared the mixture for use, you can apply it between the tiles, pushing it into the seam.

To do this efficiently, the mixture is taken with the end of a spatula and applied across the seam - this way you can achieve the deepest penetration.

If you apply only along the joint, then over time it will crack, and in some places it will simply fall off - for this reason, I do not recommend the use of hard spatulas, graters and half-graters in such work.

Having applied the mixture to the area between two tiles, a spatula is passed along the joint, removing the excess, as the master does in the top photo. But that is not all. To make the seam look nice, finish it with your finger (without a glove).

That is, when about the square of the finish is ready, they pass along the seam with a finger with a slight pressure, and it turns out to be slightly deepened, clearly aligned in width.

If you are afraid for your skin, then use hand creams every working day, although the masters, as a rule, do not do this, but simply wash their hands often.

Considering that it is stepwise process, after you have worked out one batch, do not rush to wipe the tile, but immediately do another batch and proceed to finishing the next section. You can start the final wiping of the tiles only after 1-1.5 hours (this optimal time).

If you leave the wipe on the next day, then you will face serious problems. Such substances, especially Ceresit CS 33, dry quickly, have excellent adhesion to ceramics (including glaze) and excellent hardness.

Therefore, removing the completely dried mixture, you not only complicate your life, but also risk damaging the tile.

Grouting in the bathroom is done starting from the walls even before the first (lower) row and floor have been laid. Everything is simple and logical here: the first row is laid after the floor has been laid out - this is correct and convenient in technical terms, and the floor is laid after the walls are trowelled in order to stain it less.

Of course, the first row has to be rubbed after the tiles are laid on the floor.
The floor is rubbed according to the same principle as the walls, that is, they prepare the same amount of the mixture and apply it first across the seam, and then tighten it along the longitudinal line. Depth and evenness are leveled in the same way with your finger.

Mistakes when grouting tiles. How to replace grout on tiles

Decide what type of grout you will use. It depends on the size of the joints between the tiles. There are 2 types of tile grout: sand-free and sand-free. If the joints between the tiles are larger than 3 mm, use a sand grout to fill them; if the joints are less than 3 mm, use a sand-free grout as it is more compact.

Remove old grout. If necessary, remove existing grout before reapplying. This will keep the surface looking clean and prevent mold from spreading.

Apply tile sealant. Apply sealant to the surface of your tile if it is porous to prevent grout from soaking in when you apply it. Do this with a sponge, roller, or simply rub the tile with sealant and let dry for 24 hours.

Prepare a grout solution from a dry mix. Mix the grout in a 20 liter bucket with a spatula.

• The spatula is small hand tool used for laying pasty materials on walls, countertops and floors.

Apply grout. Apply a large number of mortar to the seams along the tiles of your tiled floor with a trowel. Make sure the grout completely fills the joints. Rub the entire floor surface, except for the joint seams; These are the areas between the floor tiles and the bathroom, wall, door, cabinet or sink.

• The trowel is a rectangular flat tool with a steel handle and rubber surface that is used to apply the grout. Hold the trowel at a 30-degree angle and apply the grout all over the tiled floor.

Remove excess grout. Remove excess grout from tiles after all joints have been filled. To do this, go over the surface of the tile with a scraper, only this time hold it under acute angle and move diagonally to remove excess grout.

• The diagonal movement avoids damage to the grout in the joints.

Leave the grout on and prepare the bucket. Leave the grout on for about 10 minutes. While the grout dries, add water to the second bucket and use a sponge to wipe the grout off the tile.

Any repair of the room where the tiled flooring is laid requires a full complex construction works. The final stage called grouting between tiles special formulations, which differ in structure, consumer characteristics and application complexity. It is difficult to navigate among the mass of proposed materials, therefore, in this article we will consider the main aspects of this topic. Perhaps this will help you make the right choice and successfully purchase products that match your parameters. Grouting completes the process of tiling the surface.

It is important to do it without mistakes in order to get an excellent result. Beginners have a lot of questions: how to rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it without further alteration. It is recommended to inquire before starting work necessary materials and process. There are many videos on this topic on the Internet from professionals that significantly speed up the learning period for beginners.

Some of the issues worth taking the time to include are:

• what types of grout are;
• how the work on sealing the seams is carried out;
• what needs to be prepared for these manipulations;
• which brand to give preference to;
• are there pitfalls in the process.

What is grouting for? facing tiles On the floor? This process is used to seal and prevent moisture and debris from entering the inter-tile space. As a result, the service life is extended. Also, high-quality work successfully mask the flaws in the installation, and add completeness and aesthetics to the floor or wall covering.

Types of grout for floor tiles

The industry offers consumers several types of grout (the second name is fugue) for tiles, differing in characteristics. These include:

• cement;
• polymer-cement and polymer;
• epoxy and epoxy-cement;
• polyurethane.

There is also a furan fugue, but it is used very rarely at home - it is only black. Although it is she who possesses excellent characteristics... If the color scheme of your coating allows you to process the seams in this spectrum, it is quite possible to join the furan variety.

The names are taken from the main component that is included in the grout. He will determine the properties of the fugue and its scope. When choosing, pay attention to two main aspects: the width of the processed seam and the expected level of humidity in the room. Also look at the packaging: ready-made mixtures are supplied in plastic containers, dry ones - in paper bags or bags.

Cement

The basis for this type is white cement, mixed with fine refined sand during production. This grout is used on surfaces that are not subject to vibration. The lack of plasticity leads to the appearance of cracks, so this factor must be taken into account when buying.

It is also not recommended to use such a fugue in rooms with high humidity - the composition is hygroscopic, which will lead to mold. Therefore, to extend the service life, water-repellent impregnations are used.

Cement grouting of tiles on the floor is made in the form of a powder, which requires dilution with water before use. This is due to the rapid solidification of the finished solution. The seams are rubbed with a special rubber trowel.

Important! It is worth remembering the unsafe preparation of the working solution. Dust generated during mixing causes irritation of the mucous membranes and an allergic reaction. Be sure to use personal protective equipment when carrying out work - respirators and goggles.

Polymer-cement and polymer

This type differs from cement grout by the presence of polymer compounds in the composition. This removed the shortcomings of the previous one and provided the following positive qualities:

• strength;
• plastic;
• moisture resistance.

The listed properties made it possible to use a fugue regardless of the level of moisture and surface mobility. The principle of application is the same as for the previous one. It is offered to the consumer in dry form, implying the preparation of a working solution. It hardens quickly, it is recommended to prepare the mixture in small portions.

The polymer joint is intended for filling micro-joints in porcelain stoneware or stone and has specific characteristics. Cement-free, silicone based. Plastic and waterproof in terms of properties. Permitted for use in rooms with high humidity... A special feature during application is the need to protect the tiles with masking tape along the seams and the presence of a filling gun.

Epoxy and epoxy-cement

These formulations have many advantages over the previous ones. They are durable and elastic, resistant to various aggressive influences and temperature extremes. It is possible to add decorative shiny additives, which improves the appearance of the tile flooring. The disadvantage is the complexity of the work due to the high viscosity, even for professionals in this field. But the result will delight for a long time without losing practical and aesthetic qualities.

The epoxy grout has a two-component composition - resin and hardener. The components are mixed before use until a thick plastic mass is formed. They work with it quickly, after mixing the components, the fugue hardens. Before work, it is recommended to watch training videos with grouting tiles on the floor with this type to prevent negative consequences.

Also, among the features, it is worth noting that it is possible to use it to grout joints with a width of at least 6 mm due to the viscous consistency. The sale is represented by a wide colors, including silver, gold, bronze.

Polyurethane grout

It is a dispersion of water-based polyurethane resins. In terms of quality, it is superior to cement joints, but inferior to epoxy ones. Waterproof, practical, does not change appearance after a long time. Resistant to vibration and slight deformation. It is offered in a ready-to-use consistency. Easy to operate.

Seams up to 6mm are available for processing. Before grouting the tiles on the floor with polyurethane grout, you should first clean them of dust and wait until the glue with which the covering is attached has completely dried.

Top manufacturers of tile grout

Fugues are offered to consumers by many companies. Consider several leading manufacturers that combine quality and ease of use in their products:

1. Henkel, German brand Ceresit. Huge experience in production various materials for construction has formed a reputation as a reliable and serious company that offers its customers excellent products with high rates... The range of Ceresit grouts allows you to choose the most suitable one without any extra effort.
2. Mapei, italian company, specializing in the production of goods for construction, including fugues of various types. Among the wide range, you can choose a product for any requirement.
3. Atlas, a Polish concern that is not inferior in quality to eminent competitors. Also offers wide choose products for repair, enjoys well-deserved popularity among buyers.
4. Kiilto, a Finnish brand representing Construction Materials including epoxy grouts. Differs in positive characteristics and high quality, more often used by professionals.

Whichever brand you decide to buy, consider your own requirements. It will not be superfluous to ask about the reviews of real users about this or that product on specialized forums, at the same time reading advice on how to properly grind the seams on the tiles. Sometimes expensive materials in inept hands turn into unpleasant consequences.

What are the criteria for choosing a grout for the floor

When choosing a fugue, it is worth deciding on several parameters necessary for a successful purchase. These include:

• tile material;
• compatibility of the joint and the glue used for laying the covering;
• the width of the inter-tile space;
• characteristics of a tiled room (humidity, exposure intensity, temperature);
• surface colors.

It is also recommended to read the manufacturer's recommendations and detailed instructions on the application indicated on the package. Pay particular attention to the compatibility of the grout and the material from which the tiles are made. This criterion is very significant and affects the quality of the work performed.

The porcelain stoneware joint must not be rubbed over with cement compounds. An epoxy grout will be most effective. But take into account all the nuances, otherwise color distortion and damage to the top layer of the glaze will occur.
In bathrooms, it is advisable to use polymer-cement or polymer grout. It is resistant to moisture and absorbs possible expansion of the material under the influence of temperature.

Remember that it is better to use fugues that meet certain parameters and are best suited to the criteria of your choice, despite the existence of universal compositions. Be guided by the joint width - it is proportional to the stability of the grout.

When choosing a color spectrum, they usually prefer a fugue to match the tile or slightly darker. If the designer's idea involves the use of a contrasting shade, it is worth remembering that this will not only indicate strict geometric shapes, but will also highlight all the disadvantages of styling.

Grout tool

Before properly rubbing the tiles on the floor, you need to purchase not only the working mixture directly, but also the tool that you will need in the process. It can be divided into two main groups: the basic set is needed regardless of the type of fugue and the specific one, which requires certain types of grout. The main ones are the following:

• mixing container;
• rubber float and spatula of various widths;
• a piece of foam rubber and a soft rag;
• for large volumes - drill and mixer attachment for homogeneous mixing.

Specific additions to the list might include a grout gun, metal bag, and other tools. Then everything will be done right.

Description of the grouting process

After the preparatory work and the purchase of the necessary mixture, we proceed to the process itself. There are some nuances in it, which we will consider in more detail. This also applies to the observance of the order of actions, and the inadmissibility of certain manipulations.

The first thing to remember is that you cannot start work without waiting for the glue used to lay the coating to completely dry. It is imperative to clean the seams from debris with a vacuum cleaner. If grout is sold in not finished form and requires mixing the working solution, strictly follow the instructions and the dosage recommended by the manufacturer indicated on the package.

You will need

• Grout (cement, silicone or epoxy);
• Capacity for diluting grout;
• Masking tape (for working with silicone or epoxy grout);
• Rubber spatula for jointing;
• Foam sponge and water container;
• Protective gloves.

Instructions

First, the surface must be prepared for jointing. To do this, you need to wait until the tile glue is completely dry, then clean the seams from dust and debris that could get into them (this is especially true for floor tiles). It is best to vacuum the seams to clean them, and wipe the tiles with a damp cloth or sponge to remove dust.

If you are using a cement grout, then first you need to dilute it with water. To do this, pour dry grout into a container, then add the required amount of water (the ratio of the mixture to water is indicated by the manufacturer on the package). Dry cement grout has a very fine fraction, almost like a powder, so you need to stir it for a long time and thoroughly. At first, the powder will float on the surface of the water and not mix with it, then gradually a "dough" will begin to form. Make sure that there are no lumps left, otherwise the seam will be untidy and the grout will not be able to fully provide waterproofing.

Unlike cement grout, silicone and epoxy mixes are sold ready-to-use, so you just need to open the package and get to work.

The easiest way is to grout the joints with cement grout. To do this, take a rubber planer trowel and put the mixture into the joint so that all voids are filled. Part of the mixture will smear over the tile, and there will be surpluses on the seam. It's okay, as it should be, since this is the initial stage. Next, you need to remove the excess with a rubber spatula. To do this, place the trowel across the seam, tilting slightly towards the direction of travel, and push along the seam with pressure. After that, the grout in the joint will be flush with the tile or slightly lower, due to the rounded edges of the tile and the softness of the rubber trowel. Now you can either leave it that way, or make the seam a little more embossed if this suits your idea. To deepen the seam, simply insert the trowel into the seam to the desired depth and slide over the seam to remove excess.

When working with silicone and epoxy grout, the problem of subsequent cleaning of the tile from the smeared excess of the mixture arises. These types of jointing are very difficult to remove from the surface, especially if the tile is unglazed or with a relief surface structure. Therefore, it is necessary to work with these types of grout carefully, and the tiles along the edges of the seams must be sealed with masking tape. The principle of operation is the same as with a cement grout: put the mixture into the seam, remove the excess, deepen the seam if desired.

When the grout is completely dry, the tiles must be cleaned of excess. In the case of cement grout, you need to scrub all the tiles with a damp sponge, and if you are working with silicone or epoxy, remove the soiled masking tape pasted near the seams.

The final stage of tile work is the jointing. The seams need to be rubbed special mixtures and this must be done according to technology.

We will reveal how to join tiles in the article.

Why rub the seams

• The seams are protected from moisture and dirt, the grout prevents mold and mildew from appearing in the space between the seams.
• The seams help to mask defects in the lining. Within one batch, tiles can have a difference in size up to 3-5 mm. Seams of sufficient thickness mask the difference in tile size.
• A monolithic cladding is created. Glue adjacent tiles together with the grout mixture.
• Decorative function. Seams of the same thickness look nice and tidy, and a wide range of grout colors helps to achieve interesting results. Often the grout is matched to the color of the tile, but contrasting options always look interesting.

What tools are needed

An auxiliary tool is required to join the tiles.

• Capacity for stirring the grout.
• Drill with stirring attachment. The mixture should be homogeneous and free of lumps.
• Rubber spatula. A rubber spatula is used for jointing. It is flexible, will not scratch the glaze on the tiles.
• Rubber float: For larger volumes, it is best to use a rubber float to spread the grout over a large area at once.
• Sponge, clean rag.

And the grout itself will be required.

Choosing a grout mixture

There are two types of tile joints:

1. cement-based;
2. epoxy based.

Fugues with Portland cement content

Cement-based grouting is a popular and commonly used option. They are sold as dry powders in small packages. After they need to be diluted with water to an elastic and thick consistency.

The advantages of cement grouts are as follows:

• strength and resistance to abrasion, such a tile joint will be durable;
• wide range of colors: the fugue can have all kinds of colors and shades, which allows you to bring to life the most interesting and original ideas;
• the plasticity of the fugue makes it easy to apply it in the space between the tiles, it is easy to work with such grout, it is easy to dilute it with plain water.

This type of grout is suitable for joints up to 5 mm thick. If you plan on joints thicker than 5 mm, buy fugues containing quartz sand.

But you need to consider the following:

1. quartz sand makes the puffer grainy and less plastic;
2. the color range is narrowed, the grout will be white or gray;
3. quartz sand in the composition can scratch the glaze of the tile.

Ready grout

In small buckets, you can buy ready-made mixtures for grouting tile joints. The cost of such products will be high, but the mixture will be of high quality, homogeneous and without lumps.


The consumption of such materials will be low.

Fugues based on epoxy resins

The fugue consists of epoxy resin and hardener. The mixture is suitable for grouting tile joints from 6 mm and thicker. It is recommended to use epoxy grout for rooms with high traffic, for swimming pools and saunas.

The ready-made mixture has a viscous consistency and a short working life. The grout sets and hardens quickly, so you need to work quickly with it.

Wear a respirator, because such products contain harmful components with a specific odor.

Knead the fugu in portions so that you don't have to throw out the remains that you did not have time to work out.

These products pleases with durability for a period of 50 years, but also at a high price.

Deciding on the color

The rich color range of grouting materials allows you to experiment.

• Floor tiles are exposed to constant impact, friction, dust and dirt get on it. The fugue must withstand all this impact. For floor coverings use a gray grout.
• White seams are a classic option that matches any cladding and fits into any interior style.
• In the color of the tiles. Traditionally, for tiles on the wall, a fugue is taken several tones lighter than ceramics.
• Contrasting options can make the desired accent and enrich the cladding. Please note: dark seams on light-colored ceramics will show any imperfection and error during installation.
• Classic color combinations. There is a place for discreet experimentation, but everything should be tasteful. A combination of white and yellow, red and blue are some of the options.
• Small rooms are not suitable for experiments, better fit seasoned classics - white seams or joints in the color of ceramics.

Jointing technology

1. preparation of the workplace and surface;
2. applying a solution;
3. smoothing joints, removing excess grout.

Preparation

Make sure you have everything you need: grout, tools, accessories. You have already decided on the color and type of mixture.


Remove the tile crosses before starting the planer. The crosses are removed with pliers or a screwdriver.

If the cross cannot be removed, cut it off as much as possible with a painting knife. You should also embroider the seams, and remove the remnants of dried tile adhesive. If this is not done, black spots will appear in the seams, which will affect the attractiveness of the cladding.

To avoid problems with the seams, when laying the tiles, make sure that no glue gets into the seams. Do not apply too much solution on back side tiles, immediately remove excess.

TO preparatory work mixing the solution applies. If volumes are small, use a small container. Pour the fugu into the water gradually, stir slowly until a thick mixture is obtained.

If the volume of work is large, you can knead the fugue in a bucket using a mixer or a drill with a nozzle.

Please note that the grout has a short working period and sets quickly. So stir in portions, for the entire package at once.

Fugue application

How to properly join the tiles? A rubber trowel is used to apply the joint into the seams. Move across the seam to fill in the space between the tiles. You need to press a little to fill the seams well.


Excess fugue must be immediately removed from the tile with a wet cloth or sponge. When the grout dries, it can be difficult to remove.

For large volumes, a rubber spatula is used, with which the grout is distributed over the seams.

Smoothing seams

While the grout is still not completely dry, you need to remove the excess from the tile joints and give the joints the same look.

Dampen a fiber sponge and gently rinse seams with a damp sponge. This will remove excess grout and smooth out any unevenness. Soak a sponge in water periodically.


Outcome

Jointing tile joints is not an easy task. Using the tips from the article, you can achieve good results... Before starting grouting all joints, you can practice in an inconspicuous place to "fill your hand".