A correctly installed door frame provides 90% of the overall success.

Before you install the doorframe, you need to carefully study the basics of this delicate work.

Tools and materials

Tools necessary for work: tape measure, pencil, hammer, square, construction knife, puncher, drill, screwdriver.

Depending on its design, you can use the following tools and materials:

• hacksaw for wood;
• a hacksaw with a fine tooth;
• miter box;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• puncher;
• drill;
• drill;
• construction knife;
• roulette;
• square;
• bubble level;
• pencil;
• hammer;
• nail puller;
• direct suspensions;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• anchors;
• nails;
• polyurethane foam;
• glue for MDF;
• wedges;
• wooden blocks;
• door frame;
• wood putty;
• additional elements;
• roofing material;
• building mixture.

Preparatory work

If the door frame is installed in place of the old one, the latter must first be dismantled. The easiest way to do this is by simply sawing the side and top planks in half and pulling out the resulting pieces with a nail puller. Sometimes you also have to cut the fixing nails and anchors around the perimeter. If there are embedded parts in the opening, it is better to leave them. Subsequently, it will be easier to install a new box on the mortgages.

In most cases, an interior door frame can be purchased as a universal kit. Collect and adjust it to fit right size you have to yourself. The box kit must include side and top strips, a threshold or a bottom strip for interior doors - a rarity, but may be present. The porch can be one piece with the slats or be overhead. The box itself can be made of wood or MDF. The planks included in the kit are designed for use as part of a unit with a door leaf 2 m high and 60-90 cm wide.

You can accurately mark the planks before cutting as follows. The split recess is installed in the side strips, which are laid out facade surface upward approximately along the width of the opening. The canvas is placed on the porches between the planks. The upper bar is applied in place. With a solid porch, it can be applied with the upper side to the canvas, this will not affect measurements. A uniform gap of 2-3 mm is set along the perimeter of the canvas, for this you can use cardboard cuttings, tile corners or just by eye. We mark the location of the awnings on the side bar and the canvas.

The hinges are cut before installing the box in the opening, or better before starting its assembly. This makes your work more convenient. The bar is laid out on a horizontal surface, the contour of the loop is outlined, excess material is removed with the help of a chisel. The generally accepted arrangement of awnings at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower surfaces of the door leaf. For lightweight canvases, amplifiers are made in these places.

The cutting points of the planks are neatly marked with a pencil. For a door with a threshold, the gap to it from the bottom of the leaf is assumed to be 2.5 mm. For a door without a threshold, the clearance under the door is made from 1 to 1.5 cm. On the upper and lower planks with a solid rebate, marks are made opposite the edges of the porches on the side strips. This will allow you to cut off the excess protruding porch at the top and bottom to match the corners of the box.

We cut off all the strips with a hacksaw to the desired size. The miter box will help to cut the elements exactly. On the upper and lower planks, using a hacksaw and a chisel, remove the excess vestibule along the serifs. Put the box on the floor again and put the canvas into it, setting the necessary gaps. We fix all corners with two wood screws with a length of 75 mm with a countersunk head. For self-tapping screws, you must first drill holes of a suitable diameter. If you screw in the self-tapping screws without drilling, you can split the ends of the strips.

When the width of the opening allows, a box of MDF is better reinforce the sides with additional bars. This will make the structure more rigid. Before trying to insert the door frame into the opening, we fasten 3 straight hangers on its outer side surfaces: 2 at the edges and 1 in the middle. A strip of roofing material is nailed to the lower end of the structure with a threshold.

Door frame installation

We install the box in the opening. It should enter freely and not rest on anything. All that interferes must be brought down. For the option with a threshold, you may need a groove in the floor. During installation, it is filled with mortar or polymer construction mixture.

To begin with, the side of the box, on which there will be awnings, is set at the level in 2 planes and in alignment with the wall. This side can be immediately fixed to the opening with straight hangers. The upper bar is approximately set to the horizon. It is checked that it does not touch anything, it is even better to have a small gap for subsequent adjustment.

It is quite difficult to precisely align the top bar and the counter side stand in level.

Fine adjustment is carried out with a suspended blade. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the door will not evenly approach the narthex along the entire plane.

The canvas is placed on the canopies, the upper and lateral counter sides are exposed with the required clearance along the perimeter and along the vestibule. This is done using wedges. 3 reciprocal straight hangers are screwed on.

For MDF models with a removable rebate, the box is rigidly fixed to the opening with anchors or long self-tapping screws through the rebate groove. In wooden planks, you can hide the location of the fasteners with a matching wood filler. Variants of MDF with a solid rebate can be fixed through the box only in 3 places: under the awnings and the striker plate of the lock. But such fasteners are too close to the edge of the wall and can cause chips. Therefore, it is better to limit yourself to mounting on straight suspensions and foam.

Before filling the gap with foam, the ends of the opening should be slightly moistened with water. It is advisable to fill it in such a way that the foam does not creep out beyond the plane of the wall. Cutting it leaves the pores open and reduces the strength and durability of the filling.

To prevent the foam from squeezing the opening, it must be wedged. You can just leave the canvas in the opening, and put cardboard scraps into the gaps. If the door opens into the room, this will not work. We'll have to use scraps of wooden blocks and wedge them in the opening.

After a day, the foam will harden. The removable bolster is fixed with glue. For reliability, you can add small carnations with bitten off caps. It remains to arrange the opening and fit the fittings. When you want to have a casing on both sides of the opening, and the width of the box is less than the thickness of the wall, additional strips are used.

Having bought a door frame in a store, you should not immediately despair at the sight a large number prefabricated elements. To assemble such a structure, you do not need to be a specialist with higher education... To assemble a door frame with our own hands, consider the entire installation process in detail.

Usually, interior doors are sold disassembled, and at first glance, an incomprehensible and disordered set of elements opens to our gaze, which includes a profile wooden bar, in the worst case from MDF, locks and awnings, as well as canvas. All this vaguely resembles the children's designer from a series of "do it yourself", and most people, seeing all this, panic and start looking for an experienced specialist in this area, whose services are not very cheap. Other enthusiasts are still trying to solve this puzzle, but their efforts run into big sign question, because without detailed instructions it is very difficult to understand the assembly process. In this article we will try to help you figure out how without outside help assemble the door frame.

Determining the size of the box

The first and very an important milestone the entire assembly process is an accurate calculation, up to a millimeter, of the length of the racks of the loot, the threshold (if any) and the upper lintel.

Measurement of racks

The height of the uprights must be the same as the height of the door. Usually standard size doors are 2000 mm high. Having made sure of this, we add the width of the gap between the door leaf and the door to the height of the door leaf by a width of 2-3 mm. In the case of installing doors with a threshold, the width of two gaps of 3 mm in size, only 6 mm, must be added to the height of the door leaf. In the version without a threshold, we add only one gap of 3 mm in size, and at the bottom we add 1 cm so that the canvas does not cling to the floor when opening and closing the doors.

As a result of accurate measurements, we get the following parameters: for the option with a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be 2000 mm + 2 gaps of 3 mm each = 2006 mm; for the option without a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be 2000 mm + 3 mm + 10 mm clearance = 2019 mm.

Measurement of the threshold and upper jumper

The size of the threshold and the upper headroom of the door frame must be the same. Let us determine correctly their length, which will be equal to the sum of the width of the door leaf, the width of the gaps between the door and the loot and the thickness of the profile bar from which the loot will be collected.

In addition, on both sides of the sections of the lintel and the threshold, it is necessary to cut out the landing samples, that is, to cut off the protruding parts of the trap, into which the door rests when closing. The cut should be equal to the thickness of the post at its widest point.

To correctly cut the samples, measure the thickness of the rack from the edge of the lintel on both sides and carefully cut it out with a small hacksaw.

After that, you can screw the door frame with a calm heart.

DIY door frame assembly

We screw the door frame with self-tapping screws or confirmations for wood with a length of 55 mm or more. In order for the profile bar or MDF not to crack, it is necessary to first make holes of a slightly smaller diameter than the screwed-in self-tapping screw, by about 2-3 mm.

In order for the structure to hold tight and not fall apart during the installation process, all joints must be fixed with self-tapping screws at least twice.

Marking and cutting of awnings

The final stage of door installation is the connection of the door leaf with the door frame. With the help of a simple operation, it will not be difficult to do this. Having laid the door frame on the floor, it is necessary to put into it door leaf with awnings embedded in it.

Place the door leaf in the door frame so that the gap is the same on all sides and equal to 3 mm. To do this, you can use a school ruler, the thickness of which is just 3 mm.

After the door in the box has been aligned, you need to copy the location of the awnings from the doors to the loot using a marker.

Pull the doors off the box, place it on its side and use a chisel or router to cut seats for awnings.

Connect the doors with the frame into a single structure and screw the hinges to the door.

The assembly of the door frame is complete. Now the whole structure is ready for installation, and you can confidently say that you have mastered the puzzle of assembling the door frame with your own hands!

Doors, despite their external simplicity, are very demanding in installation. The slightest mistake can lead to disastrous consequences. Not right taken dimensions, the cuts made cannot be corrected, and you will have to do it all over again using different materials. The gaps formed due to the erroneous sawing cannot be eliminated with the help of a sealant.

Even if this masks external defects, the structure will not be strong due to a loose fit to the surface. As a result, the load on the bars is significantly increased, and the service life of the door is reduced. In order to prevent such a situation, it is necessary to assemble the door frame with your own hands, strictly observing step by step instructions... It is important not only correctly, but also very carefully and accurately to carry out all the installation work.

The base frame must match the dimensions of the door (width and height) in order to provide full coverage and support of the structure. An important nuance relative to the canvas is the purpose of the room for which it is intended. Because ventilation requirements will depend on this. In steam rooms and saunas, doors must provide reliable thermal insulation, so the opening is sealed as tightly as possible.

The bathroom, on the contrary, needs to be well ventilated in order not to accumulate excess moisture and mold did not appear. Therefore, the gap between the box and the door should be slightly wider. And also required good ventilation for rooms in which gas equipment is installed.

To provide reliable protection from heat leakage, a rectangular frame is constructed from four bars, which will serve as a frame for the door. The vertical posts will become the hinge and false element, and the transverse ones will become the upper support and threshold.

For free movement of the curtain, the gap between the door and the uprights should be about 3 mm. In cases where an air flow into the room is needed, the box is assembled from three bars, and a gap of about 10-15 mm is made at the place of the threshold. A standard distance of 3 mm is left along the uprights and lintels.

The assembled box is slightly higher than the complete threshold. The difference is about 20 mm. It is important to take this nuance into account so that you do not have to shorten the door. Because the canvas can only be adjusted if it is made of wood.

The gap between the door frame and the opening must be at least 10 mm on each side, so that the structure can be easily installed and fixed.

Required tools

A do-it-yourself door frame can be installed using various instruments, some of them are owned by many owners, but what is missing will have to be rented or purchased.

• Miter box. A device that allows you to cut a bar at different angles.
• Pencil, tape measure, construction tape.
• Acrylic paint for wood.
• Polyurethane foam for sealing the box.
• Chisel, for making cuts for hinges.
• Perforator, drill, screwdriver.
• Claw, crowbar, hammer. For dismantling works.
• Miter saw, hacksaw and stationery knife.
• Building level.

Dismantling

If the doors are not installed in a new room, but the structure is replaced. Then you can do the installation of the door frame with your own hands only after the old one has been removed. The door frame is dismantled in the following order:

1. The platbands are removed, and the elements of the box are disassembled.
2. Fasteners and anchor bolts are unscrewed.
3. The strength of the opening is checked and, if necessary, it is strengthened.

It is worth very carefully disassembling the door frame in order not to damage anything and thereby increase the volume of installation work in the future. If it is necessary to replace the door frame, it is recommended to dismantle it in advance so that there is time to prepare the opening. It is almost impossible to remove a door frame without damaging it. Therefore, after removing the old components, you will need to install new ones.

How to assemble a door frame?

The assembly diagram will help to make a door frame from blanks correctly.

The box must be enlarged with the help of an extension, if the width of the wall is more than 70 mm, and the platbands are placed on both sides.

If the door frame is assembled from MDF, all fastening work must be carried out with preliminary reaming so that cracks and chips do not form on the product.

How to saw down a door frame at 45 degrees?

Elements with a rounded section are cut at an angle of 45 °. In order to make the correct cut, use a miter box or miter saw with a rotating table.

Do-it-yourself doorframes can be assembled without the use of special tools. In such cases, you can saw off the desired angle without a miter box, using a ruler and a protractor for marking.

When installing, the structure is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle.

Assembling the box at a 90 degree angle

With this option, the assembly of the door frame is quick and easy.

• It is necessary to saw off the required size of the racks and the horizontal crossbar at a right angle.
• Choose an extra part of the vestibule.

• Place the elements of the box on the floor, align and fix at the ends with self-tapping screws (2 in each).

In order for all sides to maintain parallelism, you can attach the door to the door frame and check how it will stand in the opening. The connection of the door frame at 90 degrees is considered by specialists to be a quick installation technology.

Assembling the box with a threshold

There is no significant difference between installing door frames with a threshold and without it. Thresholds have recently lost their relevance. But, despite this, such a system has a lot of fans. This is explained by the fact that it is stronger and more reliable than a structure without a lower transverse bar. Such systems can withstand significant loads and are suitable for installing solid wood doors. Thresholds are considered a prerequisite for bathrooms. Regardless of what type of construction is chosen, each person will be able to assemble the frame of the interior door.

• Prepare vertical and horizontal strips in advance.
• Cut at 45 or 90 degrees.
• The prepared elements are placed on a flat surface.
• In turn, fasten the racks and crossbars with self-tapping screws.

How to install the door frame correctly?

The installation of the door frame is carried out after a preliminary check of its compliance with the dimensions of the opening in the wall.

• In the event that everything fits, the door frame is installed in the opening.
• Using the hydro level, the verticality of the racks and the horizontalness of the crossbars are checked.

• Wedges (about 15 pcs.) Are installed around the entire perimeter of the structure. Spacer for door frames increases strength.

• Make markings for the attachment points. Holes are drilled along it on the bars and walls. Many experts attach the door frame to the wall in the places where the hinges and the lock striker are located. This allows you not to violate the integrity and appearance products.

• The door frame is fastened with anchor bolts, which are inserted into the holes and tightened with a screwdriver or wrench(depends on the type of fastener). The structure should be fastened very carefully.

• Fasten the hinges and hang the canvas. At correct installation opening and closing the door will be easy.

• The gap between the block and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam.

The counter metal bar of the lock is installed at different stages: during assembly or when the structure is already fixed. The second method will be more correct and accurate.

• Cover the doors and mark with a pencil the location of the tongue or magnet.
• The required hole is made with a chisel or a feather drill. Too deep is not necessary, the main thing is that the tongue fits and holds the door.
• A sample is made according to the size of the striker and installed, securing it with self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to mount the element very deeply, this will ruin the appearance.

• The gaps are putty with sealant.

What else is important to know?

Not every person will succeed the first time with a high-quality installation of the door frame. But don't despair. Because many flaws can be fixed.

1. If there is an ugly seam, you can close the joint between the laminate and the door frame with a plinth or a special flexible sill.
2. If the box does not fit into the opening, then the racks and crossbars can be cut a little.
3. Platbands allow you to beautifully seal the gap between the door frame and the wall. If their width is not enough, you will have to plaster and decorate the gap.
4. To install an interior door frame in concrete wall or made of brick it is impossible to do without a punch. If the MDF door frame is installed on the slats, using a drill, holes are made and only then they work with a punch.
5. Fasten the door frame to wooden wall much easier than other materials. In this case, a hammer drill is not useful for drilling holes. You just need to screw the door frame to the wall with the help of anchors. The main thing to consider is that over time wooden buildings can shrink a lot.
6. To facilitate the installation process, special door frame installation systems have been created. Thanks to them, the structure can be placed in walls made of any material, without using wedges and spacers. This kit includes fasteners concealed installation, detailed step-by-step instructions and diagrams. Using the system, even a beginner can insert a door frame.

Installing a door (interior or entrance) requires accuracy and attention. The main condition for long-term and comfortable operation is the verticality and horizontalness of the door frame. Pay close attention to this aspect. Then the doors will open and close normally, they will not be distorted, the hinges will not creak.

The interior doors are mounted after they are finished. Finishing work on the walls and ceiling. The subfloor must also be ready, laid flooring, but skirting boards have not been installed yet.

There are three types of door configurations:

Choose the option that seems more attractive to you. Naturally, their cost is different, but labor and time costs are also very different.

Door frame dimensions

About door sizes building standards v different countries differ. For example, in our country the width of a swing door is considered to be 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm, 900 mm. Similar regulations in Spain or Italy. But in France, 690 mm, 790 mm and 890 mm are considered the norm.

What to choose? More often they prefer to adhere to domestic norms: there is more choice. Installing doors that do not meet building codes leads to the fact that to replace them you will need to look for the same or redo the doorway. There are no other features.

In general, the width of the door leaf and doorway is regulated by GOST. He defines them depending on the room:

But the realities are such that we are adjusting to what we got from the builders. Therefore, in order to determine the size of the door and frame, it is necessary to measure the existing opening. Based on the results (the smallest value), select the dimensions of the block that will be slightly smaller. Necessarily less, since clearance is required for the installation of fasteners and spacers.

When taking measurements of the doorway, inspect the walls. Repair and reinforce if necessary: ​​the box will hold up better. The condition of the walls is especially critical when installing heavy doors. If possible, you can attach to the wall wooden block at least 50 mm thick and plaster it. It will then be convenient to attach the box to it.

There is also such a parameter as the depth of the box. The standard is 70-80 cm. But in many private houses, the wall thickness is many times wider. Then the doors are installed flush with one of the walls so that the opening and slopes do not interfere with opening them. The remaining width of the opening can either be plastered and finished in the same way as the walls, or you can install an additional strip, which is selected to match the door leaf and door trims.

Read how to set the additional bar here. It is written here about the installation of platbands on the door.

How to assemble and install a door frame

If you bought doors with a frame, you will need to fasten the vertical strips - racks (jambs) - with the horizontal - lintel. This is usually done on the floor. Having spread paper or cardboard, the planks are laid out on the floor. Connect, checking the exactness of the match. If necessary, eliminate the disadvantages: process sandpaper, achieving the absence of gaps.

If you bought doors with a box, you shouldn't worry about the dimensions, but you still need to check. Just in case, so that you don't have to redo it later. Therefore, having folded the details of the door frame on the floor, put the doors between them. If everything is correct, then a gap of about 3-4 mm should remain around the perimeter of the door leaf. Only under this condition will the doors open and close normally.

There is little to say about height adjustments. Usually, the side racks of the box are made 12-15 cm longer than the door. This is in case the doors are mounted according to the rules: the racks will rest on the floor joists. But since this method of installation is rare today, the racks are shortened to the desired length.

Assembling the box and adjusting it in height

The next stage is the assembly of the door frame. It is better to do this with self-tapping screws. If the corners of the planks are cut at 45 o, obliquely drill holes for self-tapping screws on the side plank, as shown in the photo. Then we apply it to a horizontal bar and twist it with self-tapping screws.

When assembling the door frame, we drill holes for self-tapping screws - this way wood or MDF will not crack

If the corners of the box are cut at 90 o, it is a little easier to work, but it is still advisable to drill holes. This is definitely necessary if the box is made of MDF: this will guarantee that the material will not collapse.

The upper bar is placed against the side bar, the edges are aligned. Two holes are made: the upper bar through and through and into the end of the side bar. It will be clearer if you look at the photo.

By connecting the strips in this way, you get a finished box. The lower bar is practically not used today, because there is nothing below. Check again, in the assembled state the frame is 3-4 mm larger than the door leaf (both wider and longer). You can check.

Often the height of the posts is greater than necessary. Take a tape measure, measure the height of the doorway, subtract 1-2 cm, which will be filled with foam. This will be the height of the box. Measure on each side of the opening separately: After measuring again, put this value on the racks assembled box, draw a cutting line. Cut off the excess. Half of the installation of the door frame has already been done by you, and with your own hands.

Embed the hinges

One part of the hinge with a pin is fixed on the frame of the door frame (1), the second - at the end of the door leaf (2)

At what height should the hinges be installed? The distance from the edge of the door leaf must be at least 19 cm. For light doors, two hinges are sufficient - at the top and at the bottom. On heavy ones, three are installed: one more in the middle.

The hinges consist of two detachable parts, one of which has a pin. We put them so that the pin looks up. It is important.

It is more convenient to embed hinges and locks directly on the floor. Therefore, we take the fittings, attach them, mark them out and make recesses. First, we cut in and fix it on the rack. Then putting the doors down, we mark the place for the hinge at the end of the door leaf.

It is convenient to work with a milling cutter, if it is not there, we use a chisel. You only need to remove a few millimeters of material, so it doesn't take long. When folded, the hinges leave a gap of 4 mm between the door leaf and the pillar. Taking this into account and the thickness of your loop, we calculate the depth of the seat.

Having installed the hinges on the rack, we apply the canvas and at its end we mark the place where the hinges will be attached. Cut to the same depth as on the rack.

Installing the box

Place the racks and lintel assembled with the letter "P" in the doorway. With the help of a level and / or plumb lines, set in the horizontal and vertical plane. Fix the position with wedges and spacers, constantly checking for correct installation. Pay attention to the fact that the struts are parallel, not topple either sideways or forward. The comfort of using the doors depends on how evenly you expose everything.

After checking everything again, with long screws or dowels - depending on the wall material - fix the box canvas in doorway... One fastening on the door frame from the other is located at a distance of 25-30 cm. It turns out that 7-8 self-tapping screws fit on the vertical posts, 2-3 pcs on the lintel.

A hole is drilled in the box itself with a 4 mm drill, no more: the caps of the screws are 5-6 mm, and if you do more, they will not hold. This is where the timber built into the opening comes in handy (if there is one, of course). Self-tapping screws easily screw into wood and hold the box securely.

If the opening is brick, made of building blocks or shell rock, everything is more complicated: installation of dowels is required. Moreover, they should fall into the bricks, and not into the seam. And the diameter of the dowels is more than 4 mm, and they still need to be installed somehow.

Proceed as follows: drill with a thin drill 4 mm, trying to leave a mark on the wall. Having drilled everything, they dismantle the box, check where they got: into a brick or a seam. In order not to get into the seam, look at the area of ​​open masonry, or apply marks in advance on the box (only those that can then be erased). If everything is fine, make holes for the dowels, if they hit the seam, make adjustments. Dowels are inserted into the holes drilled in the wall.

To make it easier to put the box in the same place later, you can mark its edge on the wall with a pencil, marker, etc.

Expose the box again, making sure the holes in the box and the dowels match. Wedge and check once again how correct it is. Insert the crepe into the dowels, periodically checking it relative to the vertical and horizontal plane. Do not tighten too much - you can either damage the wood, or bend the stand.

Now install the door leaf. It is simply hung on the hinge pins. After checking the door is working properly, close it. Now the gap between the box and the wall must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Foaming

First, we fix the doors by placing some dense material, cardboard, for example, between the canvas and the jamb. At closed door we install wedges and spacers that will not allow the box to bend.

Then we take a can of polyurethane foam and fill the gaps between the box and the wall by about one third. No more foam needed. And this amount is more than enough. When it dries, it increases very much in volume. If there is too much of it, then it can bend the box strips. We'll have to dismantle everything and start over. Therefore, 1/3 of the volume of the slots is sufficient. After laying the foam, leave everything for about a day.

After that, you can remove the spacers, cut off the excess foam with a sharp knife and proceed with the installation of the extension (if the doorway is wider than the box) or installation of the platbands.

Outcomes

Do-it-yourself door frame installation is a responsible job. It requires attention and scrupulousness. But you don't need any superpowers. If you can handle even a little with a hammer, drill, chisel and self-tapping screws, you can definitely do it.

Saving in repairs is not always good, but if there is a person with hands and brains, he will cope with any task on his own. When buying a door block in the supplier's kit, the box is attached unassembled. In order to find out how to correctly and accurately assemble and install the door frame of the interior door with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the video, to which the instructions are attached.

Not all apartments start from scratch. Often simply replaced old door to a new one. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle - remove the old door block, and prepare the opening for the installation of a new one. Usually, the procedure is performed without preserving the old door leaf and door frame, so it is carried out by roughly breaking them out. But neatness will not hurt if the owner does not want to re-finish the walls and corners of the doorway.

First, remove the door leaf. The door can be removed from the card hinges by lifting it, and the universal ones must be unscrewed from one side.

Remove the cage, screwed on with self-tapping screws (unscrew with a screwdriver or screwdriver). If the cage is nailed, pry it off with a wide chisel and remove the nails with pliers.

Determine where to attach it to the opening. Usually fixed in the hinge groove.

Cut off all the foam used to seal the door frame. Removed with a sharp knife.

Advice. When sealing the door frame with plaster, arm yourself with a chisel: by lightly tapping on it with a hammer, remove all excess.

Remove the solid frame from the doorway. Lay on a horizontal plane and disassemble it. If saving the canvas and the box is optional, then you can remove them with a hammer, an ax and a crowbar-nailer. There is no special algorithm of actions - break with all your might. This method will give you a lot of pleasure.

Choosing a block of an interior door

When choosing a door block, it is worth considering:

Opening method. The most popular are swing doors... If there is not enough space, use sliding sliding doors... They are mounted in a special way and open along the guide strips, sliding into a special recess in the wall. Folding (in the form of an accordion) and stables (representing 2 halves of the canvas, swinging open in both directions) are much less often used. They are matched to the appropriate room design.

Noise isolation. This quality is influenced not only by the canvas, but also by the box of the interior door, as well as by the cashing machines.

The weight of the canvas. This factor depends solely on the material from which the door is made. The heavier it is, the better the fittings should be.

Execution material. Doors are made of solid wood, MDF boards and chipboard. The highest quality products are considered to be made of solid wood, the disadvantage is the weight of such a door.

Advice. When choosing an interior door block, consult the seller about its class fire safety... So, the door will protect you not only from noise, but also from fire.

Marking and measurements

Before assembling the door frame, it is necessary to make several accurate measurements and mark the materials. The door block is installed after the floors are ready and the walls are finished.

The dimensions are taken in terms of the height, width and thickness of the doorway. The readings should be indicated with an accuracy of 0.01 cm. If the measurement is inaccurate, the door installed with your own hands may not fit snugly, or creak when opening / closing.

Of course, there are certain standards for door frames:

kitchen - 60 x 200 cm;


living rooms - 70-80 x 200 cm;

bathroom - 60 x 190-195 cm.

But taking into account old buildings, violation of the geometry of the opening and the difference in wall thickness, it is better to play it safe and re-measure everything. This will give guarantees correct work the door block as a whole.

To take measurements, you must have the following tools on hand:

yardstick;

pencil or marker;

• square;

Move on to measure:

Measure the height and width of the opening. To determine the correct horizontal, the width is measured at the floor level.

Determine the dimensions of the door leaf. To do this, it is necessary to subtract the width of the door frame beam, multiplied by 2, from the width of the opening, and round the resulting result to a hundred. For example, if the measurement of the opening showed 90 cm, and the width of the box beam is 25 mm, then the dimensions of the canvas are calculated using a simple formula (900 - 25 * 2 = 850). On the basis of which the canvas should be 80 cm. The height is determined in the same way.

Measure the openings in the bathroom and toilet separately. Here, due to the sill, which prevents water from flowing out, the height is much lower.

Calculate the depth of the door block. To do this, measure the thickness of the wall.

Also check the floor level before installing the door frame. It is important that the floor is level. This measurement is made using building level... The difference between the uprights of the door frame should not exceed 2 mm.

Door frame assembly diagram

On sale, the door block is found assembled or in parts. In the first case, the canvas is matched to the block, and all parameters are adjusted by the manufacturer. If the acquired door does not enter the opening, then it is expanded. In the second case, you can purchase parts of the door frame and the door leaf separately and fit the block under the door opening.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

• self-tapping screws;

• screwdriver or screwdriver;

  hacksaw with cloth for wood and metal;

  pencil or marker.

So, let's start assembling the door frame.

On a flat horizontal surface (floor or big table) we spread the material that will serve as protection against scratches during assembly.

We lay out 2 vertical bars of the disassembled box. They have a porch - special grooves that fix the canvas.

We put the door leaf in the vestibule, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm.

Align the racks of the box and apply the top block.

Mark the length of the top of the box and cut off the excess. Cutting is strictly in size, but if you missed a little, it doesn't matter, the little flaws will be hidden by the platband.

Screw the top bar to the uprights with self-tapping screws or carefully nail down.

Measure the doorway again and cut off the excess.

The doors to the bathrooms are equipped with a threshold. Measure another short sill bar similar to the top bar.

Door frame ready for installation.

Fittings installation

After you managed to assemble the door frame, you need to install hinges on it. It will look more aesthetically pleasing if the hinges are screwed at the same height at each door.

Without removing the door block from a horizontal surface, after assembling it, attach the fittings to the intended place and circle with a sharp pencil with a dotted line. Remove the door leaf and select a piece of wood with a chisel, the depth corresponding to the thickness of the canopy card. Attach the hardware and pierce the twist with an awl. Fasten the awnings with self-tapping screws. A part of it with a flag on which the hinge will be hung is attached to the rack, and the hinge to the door leaf.

You can screw the fittings onto the door frame even after installing it, but you will have to do this while keeping the door leaf suspended. One will definitely not be able to do this operation.

Installation of an interior door frame in the opening

After all preparatory stages to install the door frame in the opening passed, you can proceed with the installation. In order for the U-shaped structure not to be "driven", it is necessary to install auxiliary strips (spacers) on it, two are enough - at the bottom and in the middle of the rack.

In order to check the correctness of the frame geometry, you must use a plumb line or level. The plumb bob is easy to construct with twine and a bolt tied to the head.

After placing the structure in the indicated place, check the verticality of the racks again. Do not be lazy to do this, in case of unevenness the door will not close. This procedure is carried out on both sides of each rack.

The box is mounted with anchor bolts. They will fix the door block and prevent it from deforming. To do this, it is necessary to drill in racks of 3 through holes directly into the opening, and then tighten the bolts.

The gaps between the door frame and the opening are eliminated using polyurethane foam... In order not to stain front side structures, it is necessary to glue it with masking tape. Fill the voids with foam carefully, taking into account the fact that when solidified, it increases the volume by 30-40%. In order for the box not to lead, it is necessary to install wooden spacers. After the foam dries, they are removed.

The final stage

The final stage is the installation of platbands on the door frame. They give door block aesthetic appearance and hide minor installation flaws.

First of all, the length of the casing is determined. To do this, you can use the size table, or determine it yourself by measuring the length and width of the structure at the extreme point of the box. For the junction of the platbands, it is necessary to make a side cut at an angle of 45 °. You can use a miter box (a special device that allows you to cut wood products according to the given angle parameters) or a jigsaw, having previously measured the required angle with a protractor.

Further, each of the side platbands is nailed to the box with two nails (bottom and middle). The upper horizontal casing is measured and filed with an angle of 45 °. After that, all 3 planks are nailed down completely.

Advice. In order for the nails not to peep out of the linen of the platband, they must be drowned. Cut with a drill, with a diameter corresponding to the size of the nail head, a depression of 1-1.5 mm.

Use a metal hacksaw or jigsaw when trimming the beams of the door frame. Their small teeth will prevent you from chipping.

When installing solid wood canopy, use 3 canopies. This way a heavy door will last longer and the hinges will not sag. Cut in the third hinge in the middle of the door frame or move it up.

Doors for the kitchen and living rooms should be 1-2 cm from the floor level. This is done to ensure ventilation. also in kitchen door small ventilation grilles are cut in so that when gas leaks, it does not concentrate in one room.

If the room has thick walls, and this was not taken into account when choosing a door, then it turns out that the width of the box is less than the width of the opening. To correct such a defect, an addition is used. Bars or planks that completely cover the bare wall.

At the final installation of the door frame, in order for the foam to set better, it is necessary to wet the surface with a sprayer.

Now you are exactly ready to install the door frame for the interior door. The proposed video describes in more detail some of the stages of this difficult process.

How to install an interior door correctly: video