Why did they appear and what to do with the sluggish leaves of the violet. Why do violet leaves wither? Violet disappears how to save

From a large number beautiful and unpretentious houseplants a special place is occupied by saintpaulias, which adorn the windowsills in many homes. But, these flowers have their own requirements for care, the violation of which leads to the death of the plant. Leaf wilting is often the first sign.

Despite all the unpretentiousness of this flower, problems sometimes arise when growing it. Elastic, dense, slightly velvety violet leaves begin to wither. What could be causing this problem? There may be several reasons why the flower gradually withers.

The most common causes of leaf wilting are:

1. The presence of a fungal disease. The bacteria that cause Saintpaulia can infect the soil through the tools used to open the soil.

3. Excess moisture. Do not water the plant daily. It will only harm him. In winter, just one (at least two) watering a week is enough. It is very important to avoid stagnation of water in the pan of the pot. After irrigating the flower, the excess liquid must be drained after 30 minutes of time. Watering is recommended only after upper layer the substrate dries up.

Untimely watering also leads to a loss of turgor in the leaves. Here the solution is one - to water the plant as soon as possible. However, after long drying, it is impossible to water the plant abundantly - this will lead to its death. Moderate watering should be carried out, or even a mini-greenhouse should be built for the flower in order to increase the humidity of the air.

4. Injury to the root system. So, the problem is often caused by a strong overgrowth of roots. A small flower pot in this case leads to serious diseases of the violet.

However, an excessively large pot will not give good results- the diameter of the pot should be three times less than the diameter of the rosette. Otherwise, air exchange is impaired. With a large amount of soil, the root system is not able to absorb all the moisture - as a result, the soil sour and the roots begin to rot.

5. Poor quality soil. These indoor flowers react extremely negatively to the content in the soil: mold, aggressive chemical substances, pathogenic microorganisms, large debris, plaque. Sometimes violets wither due to the content of impurities in the substrate. In rare cases, the soil is not suitable for the plant in terms of acidity or in its general composition.

6. Burn the root system. If you overdo it with the use of fertilizers, then the plant can become very sick. It is very important not to overuse feedings. For a flower, it will be sufficient to apply fertilizers only once a month. In late autumn and winter, the violet does not need nutritious "cocktails" at all.

7. Lack of light. During the day, the violet should be well lit for 10 - 12 hours. V winter period when the days get short and cloudy, this time is shortened. In this case, artificial lighting comes to the rescue.

An excess of light also negatively affects the well-being of the plant. It is undesirable to place Saintpaulias on the southern windowsills - they do not tolerate scorching sun rays... This leads to yellowing and wilting of the leaves. If you have no other choice and have to grow plants in a south window, you should use shading.

8. Low air temperature caused by shutdown central heating, excessive ventilation of the room in winter. And if, at the same time, the plant has a moist earthen lump, then with a high probability hypothermia of Saintpaulia will occur. It should be understood that in a plastic pot the flower will survive this cooling better than in a clay or ceramic pot, because the less moisture evaporates, the less cooling.

How to stop wilting leaves?

Noticing the wilting of the leaves of a flower, do not despair. This phenomenon is completely preventable. If the cause of the disease is a poor substrate, the plant should be transplanted. It is necessary to thoroughly shake off the root, rinse in a solution of potassium permanganate and use healthy, high-quality soil for planting. When the cause of wilting is an excess of moisture, you only need to reduce watering. In any case, sagging, weak, too soft leaves are recommended to be cut to a healthy area. In many cases, the violet can be saved by digging a small hole near the stem. Providing oxygen will allow you to quickly revive Saintpaulia.

If you are unlucky and the roots of your violet have completely rotted, you need to clean the stem to healthy tissue and root the plant in water, after adding crushed activated carbon to the water. You can also try rooting healthy-looking leaves in the water so that there is a better chance of the plant recovering.

Violet is loved by many flower growers, which is not surprising, because she always pleases her owners with delicate flowers and a pleasant aroma. But sometimes it happens that the leaves of a violet wither, and this process occurs quite quickly. What if the beauty who recently made the flower garden a real decoration suddenly began to fade? How to save a violet from death?

Sometimes you can observe a situation when they begin to wither, the lower leaves of the violets disappear. Moreover, at a time when the lower leaves become lethargic and soft, everything may be in order with the upper part of the plant (sometimes even Saintpaulia may bloom). Why it happens? There may be several reasons why the violet disappears:

various fungal that can get through the soil or through wounds that are formed due to mechanical damage;
harmful insects sucking juices from violets;
improper care of a violet - non-compliance temperature regime, excess moisture or even root burns.

When the leaves of a violet wither, you should immediately understand the reasons for this phenomenon, and not wait until the process goes too far.

Violet resuscitation

Before you save the violet, you need to find out why the leaves of the plant have become lethargic. It is not recommended to reanimate violets without finding out the exact reason. By your actions, you can harm the flower. So study the issue carefully and address the cause, not the symptoms. So what if a violet has sluggish leaves?

We save from disease

The death of the lower leaves of the violet can occur with a number of diseases. These include late blight and fusarium. Both of these diseases are extremely dangerous for the plant, so if you do not take timely measures, you can say goodbye to the flower.

With late blight, the leaves become lethargic and lose their elasticity, in addition, they appear rust stains... The reanimated plant should be immediately rid of the soft leaves. In addition, since fungal bacteria infect the root system, it is necessary to remove the flower from the pot and remove the damaged roots.

After the surviving part has been removed, transplant the Saintpaulia into a new pot and pour a little phytosporin over it. Pick up pots a little smaller than the previous one. If root system was completely destroyed, you can cut off the stalk and try to grow a new plant from it.

When violets are infected with Fusarium, the leaves wither, turn brown and fall off. A characteristic feature this disease is the darkened roots of the plant. You can try to treat your pet in the same way as for late blight, but you should not have high hopes for the flower to recover. In most cases, Saintpaulia will die.

We get rid of pests

Saintpaulias are most commonly attacked by rootworms, nematodes, and thrips, but there are many other insects that pose a threat to your flower garden. They get rid of them, as a rule, with the help of special preparations - acaricides. But it is worth remembering that they settle mainly in the soil. Therefore, in order to protect the flowers, it is recommended to transplant them into a new pot with a complete replacement of the soil.

We eliminate the consequences of improper care

Regardless, the most common reason a plant becomes lethargic is still the wrong one. What are you doing wrong?

Lack of light. Flowers often disappear due to the fact that they were not provided with enough light. They need it for 12 hours a day, so in winter, when natural light becomes insufficient, it is recommended to replace it with artificial one.
Excess light. In this case, the leaves can receive sunburn and turn yellow quickly. To restore a flower, it is necessary to remove it in a place where it will not be exposed to direct sunlight.
Improper watering. Excess or lack of moisture is equally harmful to Saintpaulias. Due to excess water, the roots may begin to rot in it, and in this case it is recommended to remove the flower from the pot, remove the rotten roots and transplant it into a new one. If the plant is suffering from a lack of water, then you can simply water it (but be careful not to flood the flower). The plant is important. Some people do it wrong by pouring the saintpaulias from above - the water needs to be poured into the pan.
Excess or shortage of fertilizers. Usually the plant becomes lethargic when potassium or nitrogen is lacking. If in this case it will be enough to compensate for the lack of nutrients through application, then with an excess of fertilizers, the situation is much more serious. It is necessary to transplant your beauty to a new place, and continue to monitor the amount of dressings.
Bad soil. Saintpaulias prefer slightly acidic soil, so if yours is not so, you need to change it by replanting violets.
Poor water quality. Water for irrigation should be settled (at least a day) and warm. Cold water from the tap causes significant damage to the flower.
Failure to comply with the temperature regime. Optimum temperature for Saintpaulias - 18-25 degrees. If it is too low or too high, the flowers begin to fade. Move the Saintpaulia to a warmer (or cooler) place. Do not leave the flower in a draft or near heating appliances.
Untimely transplant. Remember to replant your plants once a year, and also transplant your newly acquired Saintpaulias into new soil.

Video "If you poured a violet"

In this video, you will learn what to do if you accidentally flooded a violet.

Who among us has not encountered a similar phenomenon in our collection? It is off-season, but more often it occurs either in cold winters or in very hot summers. And it is the result of the fact that the root system has ceased to function.

And the main reasons causing such a deplorable state of plants are re-:

overdrying;
waterlogging;
hypothermia;
overheat.

It is especially detrimental to plants if these factors are combined: hypothermia and overmoistening, overdrying and overheating. In the cold season, when keeping plants on the windowsill, we are faced with the first pair of negative factors. In the summer and sometimes when growing violets on a rack - from the second.

And if for beginner flower growers violets suffer from the inability to properly water the plants, as well as to select right size pot and a suitable substrate, then for experienced ones - from the inability to correctly poly wa each copy because of their huge number and inconvenient conditions for care (when plants are placed under the ceiling, and they are watered standing on tiptoe on the top step of a shaky step-ladder, or even just blindly).

How to save the victims from improper care of the violet?

First of all, you need to figure out what exactly happened to the plant: was it flooded or dried? The phenomena are diametrically opposite, and the clinical picture is practically the same: drooping leaves that have lost turgor.

If during the next watering you find a wilted plant in your collection, in no case do not water it automatically, especially with a double portion of water, wanting to replenish, obviously, the missed watering. After all, if the cause of wilting is waterlogging of the soil, then another portion of water is guaranteed to kill the affected plant.

First of all, you need to take the withered plant in your hands and determine what is wrong with it. If the soil in the pot is completely dry, light reddish in color, often slightly moving away from the walls of the pot, and the pot seems weightless, then the plant is overdried. When the ground is wet to the touch, its color is dark, the pot has a noticeable weight, it means the plant is flooded (waterlogged).

Resuscitation when overdrying

If the plant is slightly wilted and you are sure that you accidentally missed it during the previous watering, just water the violet as usual. As a rule, this is enough and after a few hours it will fully recover.

With a very strong overdrying of the substrate, the root hairs and part of the thin roots that provide the suction function of the roots die (dry out). Therefore, the first watering after overdrying should not be very abundant.... For the speedy and complete recovery of a severely wilted plant, it is advisable to place it in a plastic bag for 1-3 days. The results will be better and will appear faster if warm water is injected into the bag several times. When the turgor of the leaves is completely restored, we remove the bag from the violets, carefully water the soil in the pot, and put the plant somewhere in plain sight so that it is convenient to observe its condition. Since it takes one to two weeks to fully restore a partially dead root system, watering should be careful and careful all this time.

If after a few days of maintenance with high humidity the turgor of the leaves is not restored, and the violet, when the bag is removed, drops the leaves again, which means that the root system has completely died from strong overdrying. Then the plant will have to be redrawn. That is, remove the underground part of the stem, along with the lobe of old, dead roots, and root the plant anew. To make the roots form faster and better, we remove the three lower leaves (if the plant is mature and very leafy, much more is possible). V glass jar(for example, from under mayonnaise) pour water, put the plant with leaves on the edges of the jar and place it in a transparent plastic bag, where to create more high humidity inject a little warm water of air. After 2-4 weeks, a powerful lobe of young roots forms in the water. We plant the violet in a pot in a loose, airy earth, water it lightly and again put it in a bag for two weeks. So the plant will take root faster and more reliably. Then we make several holes in the bag, or we untie it, but do not remove it at all, in order to gradually accustom the leaves to air with lower humidity. After 1-2 weeks, the package can be completely removed. The plant is restored, and at the same time rejuvenated.

Reanimation for waterlogging

In the case of a plant affected by waterlogging, one must first of all try to remove excess water from the ground as quickly and completely as possible. For this, paper napkins and towels are good, at worst, newspapers (not glossy). We wrap the pot tightly and regularly change the wet paper to dry. To speed up, you can pull the plant out of the pot and dry a lump of earth with roots with paper.

Then we determine how much the root system has suffered, and whether it is possible to restore the plant in its former quality or it needs to be redrawn.

If the petioles of the lower leaves have rotted at the point of their attachment to the stem, then we remove the old root system without delay - there are definitely no living roots, and there is nothing to save. When the roots fall off with a slight twitch, it means that they are dead and must be removed as soon as possible. If none of this is observed, you can risk restoring the plant without removing all the roots. First, we need to make sure that the root decay process does not affect the plant itself. We make a cross section of the underground part of the stem, departing 0.5–1 cm from its end. We carefully consider the cut. If it is clean, green, with no signs of rot, dust it with powder charcoal, shake off the old soil from the roots and plant the violet in a fresh, slightly moistened, very airy, with a high content of perlite, in a small pot.

It is advisable to place the reanimated plant for some time in a greenhouse or in a plastic bag. The first watering is very scarce, the addition of "Fitosporin" is useful. After 1-2 weeks after the complete restoration of the turgor of the leaves, we begin to accustom the violet to the drier air of the apartment. And after a while we return it to the windowsill.

If the root system has suffered, but has not rotted, you can try to restore it by wrapping the whole plant in a cylinder made of newspapers for 1-2 weeks.

However, the surest and most reliable way to reanimate (save) a flooded violet is to re-root it, and the overwhelming majority of experienced collectors prefer not to risk it, but to immediately cut the roots of a withered violet and root it anew. And they do it in different ways. Yulia Andrusenko is rooting a plant in sphagnum (in a bag). When it grows a decent lobe of roots, it removes the moss, if possible, and plants the violet in a small pot in light earth(as for planting leaves). Larisa Galitskaya pours loose earth into a pot, and puts a layer of sphagnum on top. The violet rosette is placed on top, and the stem partially passes through the sphagnum and almost comes into contact with the substrate. The rooting process takes place in a plastic bag. If after 3-4 weeks the plant does not move with light pressure, it means that it has taken root. Larisa unties the bag, but takes it off after 2-3 weeks and later. Some of her violets even manage to bloom in a half-open bag.

Tamara Kopeikina roots immediately in the substrate, simply by adding her base soil mixture with more rippers (perlite and vermiculite), the pot takes a small one, and the plant keeps in the greenhouse for quite a long time. Violetta Katkova uses either pure vermiculite or a mixture of vermiculite with sphagnum as a loose rooting substrate. Roots form easily, grow quickly, vermiculite is easily shaken off the roots without damaging them, before planting the plant in a nutritious substrate. Tanya Kuzina and Olya Aksyonkina root plants using the unique possibilities of wick irrigation. a wick is introduced into a small pot and a plant without roots is planted in it, placed on a container with water. Cover the rosette of leaves on top with a transparent bag and fix it. If after 2-3 weeks the violet does not move when pressed, then the roots have sprouted into the ground. After that, the bag at the bottom can be untied, and after a few days it can be removed completely.

In winter, the leaves of plants sometimes wither if they are located on an ice windowsill. At extremely low (for this crop) temperatures, the healthiest and strongest root system cannot function normally. But it is enough to put such a plant in a warm place, for example, on a rack with lamps, and it will quickly come to its senses. Try as much as possible to seal the windows, caulk and seal all cracks with foam rubber. For safety reasons, you can keep plants in boxes with high sides in winter, best of all in foam. It does not look very aesthetically pleasing, but the plants are reliably protected from ice blowing, and at the same time from dry hot air rising from the battery.

For many amateur gardeners, plants suffer from growing in pots that are too large. This problem occurs especially often during transplants, when young plant from a plastic cup or small pot, they are immediately transplanted into a large pot with a diameter of 12-15 cm. A small root system cannot master such a huge amount of land. After watering, the substrate does not dry out for a long time, respectively, the roots do not breathe for too long and die. Remember! Violets should not be grown in very large pots as they have a small, not very strong root system. And for the complete provision of the plant nutrients it is better to go along the path of more frequent transplants with the replacement of the old substrate with a new one. And never put a plant in a pot "for growth." Its volume should always correspond to the size of the root system. And the next container size can be used only after the roots have fully mastered the volume of the old pot. Just enough experienced florists can afford to "jump" one or two sizes, but with very loose soil and very careful watering within a month after transplanting.

The root system also suffers from growing plants in too small pots. If you are doing this specifically to miniaturize your plants, be sure to water them regularly. For irrigation errors in this case lead to regular overdrying. And, as a consequence, to the partial death of the root system. And dead roots are an open gate for infection and a breeding ground for pathogenic fungi. This is especially detrimental to plants in summer, when drying out occurs very quickly, and a strong overheating of a small pot is superimposed on it. And fungal diseases develop rapidly in the heat. The output, as in the previous case, is the optimal size of the pot for this instance. For young rosettes, these are plastic cups or pots with a diameter of 6-8 cm. For adult plants, a diameter of 9-10 cm. For very large violets with a huge root system, a diameter of 11-12 cm is acceptable, but this is perhaps the limit.

Growing violets in a too heavy clay substrate also leads to problems with the root system. The roots of Saintpaulias are thin, delicate, they cannot develop in such an environment. The situation is aggravated by poor aeration of such soil, and after all, according to research by American specialists, the ideal soil for violets should consist of a third of earth, a third of water and a third of air. When self-compiling the substrate, take soil only with a crumbly, granular structure, well-processed by earthworms.

AND last reason, leading to a depressed state of the plant, is its old age. These violets have a long, often curving stem, at the end of which there is a faded rosette of discolored leaves. Old roots do not cope well with all their functions, they easily break off, rot and die off. They feel like wet. And the only way to save such a plant is to rejuvenate it, that is, to redo it. And in six months your violet will be unrecognizable! But it is more correct, of course, not to bring the plant to such a state and carry out partial rejuvenation with each planned transplant, namely: deepen the neck (stem) to the lower leaves, and shorten its underground part by 1 / 4-1 / 3 of the length, so as not to increase the size of the pot and to stimulate the formation of new young roots in the upper part of the stem.

So, the main reasons for the wilting of plants:

overdrying;
overheat;
waterlogging;
hypothermia;
too large a pot;
too heavy earth;
too small pot;
very old plant.

I hope that knowing this will help you avoid maintenance mistakes and minimize the loss of plants in your collection.

Afterword

It helps a lot not to flood the plants and control the amount of water measured during watering to each specimen, such a substrate that has a dry, semi-dry and wet state different shades colors. When in doubt as to whether a given plant should be watered, simply touch the surface of the ground with your finger. This is a great hydration indicator that will never let you down. Watering is not performed on wet and moist soil. If in a hurry you watered a violet that didn't need it - it doesn't matter: rinse the plastic pot several times, loosen the ground, fill it with air - and the plant will cope. Or place a paper napkin under the pot. Water lovers, add more perlite to the substrate - this will help the plant endure your passion. And try to find the courage to control optimal size collections, so that the care of each plant is at least a little, but individual.

Yours I.L.Danilina

Danilina Irina Leonidovna

Telephone for communication and orders: 8 495 430-63-59 , 8-917-545-6727 (mob)

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Filling with water - common reason death of violets. The waterlogged substrate begins to rot, infecting the roots with this process. The leaves of the plant lose their elasticity, become lethargic, drooping. Also, excess moisture entails and fungal diseases, bacterial infections. In this case, it is completely pointless to spray or water the violet with healing solutions, it cannot save it from the gulf.

If you have poured a violet, then you can save it by following the steps below.

First of all, you need to remove the violet from the pot. If it smells of damp earth, it will be enough to remove excess moisture. To do this, the earthen lump together with the plant must be placed on a cotton cloth, toilet paper or paper towel folded several times. You need to change them as soon as they get wet. This must be done within 24 hours, after which it will be possible to return the violet to its native pot.

If there is a smell of rot and decomposition from a clod of earth, it is necessary to remove part of the soil and rotten roots. In healthy roots, the color is white or slightly brownish, brownish. The roots are divided using a regular fork or a wooden stick with a pointed end. Typically, the affected roots fall off with the soil.

Then the remnants of the earth and roots are rinsed in potassium permanganate or the preparation "Maxim", allowed to drain off excess moisture and dried, as in the first case. Dried roots are rolled into river sand, previously thoroughly washed and dried, and vermiculite mixed in equal parts.

All peduncles, as well as the lower leaves, must be removed, and the cuts must be sprinkled with chopped charcoal or activated carbon. The pot will need a different one, with a diameter slightly larger than the remaining earthen coma. First, drainage is poured into it, then the substrate is 1 centimeter.

A sick violet is carefully lowered into a pot and covered with nutritious soil mixed with sand and vermiculite 2: 1: 1. Around the circumference of the pot, 5-6 pieces of charcoal should be buried in the ground (can be replaced with activated tablets).

After that, the pot with the plant must be placed in a warm place. It is necessary to refrain from watering until the top layer of the soil dries out. In the future, you will need to water the violet little by little, with warm boiled water, very carefully.

To improve engraftment, the violet can be lightly sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin after planting. Then the pot must be placed in a dark, dry and warm place for at least 6 hours, after which it will be possible to rearrange it to the light.

The surviving violet will give new leaves, and then it will be possible to transplant it into a normal substrate, shaking off the sand from the roots.

Most often, violets die from overflowing with water, i.e. too frequent watering. Too wet substrate rots, and with it the roots of the plant. With a slight waterlogging, the leaves turn yellow gradually, with a serious gulf, the leaves lose their turgor: they become lethargic, not elastic, sagging. At excessive moisture the soil causes a number of diseases caused by both fungi and bacteria. It makes no sense to diagnose and try to heal by spraying or watering the plant with remedies for the disease - this is useless.

If the plant dies from the bay, you can try to save it:

Remove the earthen lump from the pot. If it smells of just damp earth, then you just need to remove excess moisture by placing it on toilet paper or cotton cloth folded in several layers, and change it as it gets wet. Return the plant to the pot after 24 hours.
If the clod smells of rot and decay, some of the soil and decayed roots must be removed. Living roots are white or light brown, and dead ones are black. Carefully, use a fork or a wooden pointed stick to separate the roots. More often, rotten pieces of roots fall off along with the soil.
Rinse the remnants of the earthen lump in the solution of the "Maxim" preparation, in potassium permanganate, etc., let drain excess moisture or dry, as mentioned above.
Dip gently in a 1: 1 mixture of dry river sand and vermiculite.
Due to the loss of some of the roots, the plant will not be able to maintain flowering, therefore, all peduncles and lower large leaves must be removed, sprinkling with crushed charcoal.
In a pot, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the diameter of the remains of an earthen coma, pour drainage, a layer of soil about 1 cm, lower the diseased plant into the pot and sprinkle on top. In the soil that is used for healthy violets, it is necessary to add more vermiculite and pure river sand 2: 1: 1, then it can be used for transplanting diseased plants.
Insert a few pieces of charcoal (or activated carbon tablets) around the perimeter of the pot.
Keep the plant in a warm place, do not water until the top layer begins to dry out, then water very carefully with warm, boiled water.
After planting, you can spray with "Epin", or "Zircon", diluted according to the instructions. After processing, keep the plant in a warm, dry and dark place for 6-8 hours. You can then rearrange to light.
If the violet survives, the growth of new young leaves begins, then it can be removed from the pot again, shaken off the soil containing a large number of sand and plant in a more nutritious substrate.

How to avoid a flood of flowers

What you can do to avoid flooding plants, even if they are watered by another person in your absence:

1. The size of the pot should correspond to the variety and the size of the rosette. The diameter of the rosette should be 2.5-3 times the diameter of the pot (see photo). Pots with a diameter of more than 9-10 cm - not suitable for violets, except for trailer varieties,

2. In pots of different materials, and different probability of soil acidification. Ceramic pots are more likely to dry out. Collectors don't use them. Pots made of thick plastic do not deform when you take it in your hands, the soil does not peel off from the walls, on the contrary, it sticks to the walls. In such a pot, the greatest danger of the plant flooding.

A container made of thin and flexible plastic deforms with slight compression, an air gap forms between the wall and the earthen lump, the soil dries out faster, the roots breathe better. Such a pot is more likely to dry out. When watering, water often simply flows down the sides of the pot, without wetting the ground. This is indicated by two factors: simultaneously with watering, water appears in the pan, and the pot remains on light weight as before watering.

3. Virtually never sour soil containing a sufficient amount of vermiculite. In all purchased soils, its content is insufficient, or not at all. Purchased soil of a very dark, almost black color is made on the basis of lowland peat, which sour very quickly, it is better not to use such soils at all.

It is necessary to buy soil containing reddish-brown, coarse-fibrous high-moor peat. Thus, vermiculite or perlite should be added to suitable purchased soil or garden soil, per 5 liters of soil 0.5-0.7 liters of vermiculite. It absorbs moisture well, and then gradually releases it. It is advisable to add there a full handful of cut (up to 0.5 cm) sphagnum moss and 0.5 cups of small pieces of charcoal as an antibacterial component.

4. Drainage should be made at the bottom of the pot, preferably from medium expanded clay.

5. The sump should be wide and not deep, then the excess water will spread out in a wide, but not deep layer, not exceeding the drainage layer. Excess water is drained 15-30 minutes after watering, but in such a pan, even if the water is not removed, it quickly evaporates without harming the plant, and the air humidity around rises.

6. Often soil acidification is associated with hypothermia of the earthen coma. In the cold, dark season, even in warm room the temperature on the windowsill can be 10 ° C lower than in the room.

Abundant watering in such conditions is very dangerous. The air contained in the pores of the soil is a heat insulator, and displacing the air, the water quickly cools on the windowsill, and the roots are supercooled.

Diseases in such conditions have a lightning-fast course. It is possible to isolate from a cold window sill with the help of foam plastic and other similar materials. And you can only water in cold weather warm water(it should be lukewarm to the touch).

7. Watering is strictly metered. For this it is convenient to use plastic bottles, in the lids of which the juice tube is tightly inserted. The water flows out in a thin stream, you won't accidentally splash too much.

Water must be poured before it appears in a small amount in the sump. Before watering, it would be good to check each pot by weight: heavy - like those that have just been watered, and if the top layer is still wet from the previous watering. Such a plant must be taken under control. If the soil has not dried out even after a day, it means that there has been an overflow.

We save the flooded violet!

Overdrying the plant threatens overflow, no matter how paradoxical it sounds. With a strong overdrying, small young roots die off (they just dry out). With abundant watering, the plant, due to the loss of roots, cannot absorb all the moisture, and the soil sours and begins to rot.

When dry, the plant is watered gradually, little by little, but more often. If, during drying, all the leaves, both old and young, have withered, then all the roots have also died, it is no longer possible to save the plant.

What a violet does not like

Too much watering
Strong dryness
Uneven watering
Cold, long-term content at ground temperatures below 16 ° С
Heat, prolonged storage at temperatures over 27 ° C
Direct sunlight
Drafts
Too high concentration of nitrogen in the soil, watering with manure infusion, excessive fertilization
Alkaline soil with a high salt content
Too high humidity and too low humidity
Insect attack: thrips, scale insects. Ticks can only kill babies
Heavy ground

If all of the above does not threaten violets, then they are very resistant to disease.

Is it possible to destroy pathogens by heat treatment of the soil or chemical preparations? No. It is possible to destroy only pests by warming up: earthworms, some insect pests.

It is known that after some experiment, nematode larvae remained alive in the soil after two hours of cultivation at temperatures above 100 ° C.

Spores of fungi, bacteria survive even in space. Therefore, heat treatment only partially disinfects the substrate. But the structure of the soil is destroyed with prolonged heating. It is not necessary to process it for a long time, and no more than at 75 ° C. Most convenient way- in the microwave - as soon as the earth has become hot to the touch, stop heating.

The death of the growth point of the violet. Reasons and what to do

Sometimes you can observe the following picture: in the center of the rosette near the violet, the place from which new young leaves appear suddenly darkens, dries up, or turns black, young leaves do not develop or are strongly deformed. The growth point is destroyed. There may be several reasons for this.

Incorrect application of mineral fertilizers.

Boron deficiency leads to the accumulation of phenolic compounds in plant tissues, they poison it. The youngest leaves suffer most of all, they remain small, their edges curl down, then the leaves become brown and die off. The growth point dies, the stalk and leaf blade become brittle. Flowers wither, and young flower stalks with buds also die.

Boron deficiency can cause excessive potassium input during feeding; in this case, there is also a violation of the normal absorption of calcium, magnesium, zinc. Lack of calcium also leads to oppression and death of the growth point. If fertilizer with too high a concentration of potassium was applied during watering, and at the same time it got to the point of growth, then there is no option - it will die.

If the plant is transplanted into a substrate with an excess of potassium, then symptoms of a high salt content will appear: the rosette turns dark green, the leaves become smaller, and growth slows down. If you pay attention to this in time, you can prevent the growth point from dying off, if it is good to spill the earthen lump with a warm weak (slightly pinkish) solution of potassium permanganate (at least 0.3 liters per plant), letting it drain from the pot, then put on dry pallet.

Attack and rapid reproduction of ticks.

Young leaves in the center of the rosette deform, curl, become hard and brittle. With severe damage, the center of the rosette, the point of growth of the violet, can die off. But this is not the only sign, if the violet was struck by ticks, then on the leaves you can see traces of bites, the smallest light dots. The ticks themselves may not be visible due to their small size. In addition, severe tick infestation usually occurs in a hot and dry environment.

Damage to the central part of the socket with fungal diseases.

In this case, young leaves do not become hard and fragile, but, on the contrary, become lethargic, pale or brownish. However, fertilizer poisoning and tick infestation can cause disease. So gray rot - fungi of the genus Botrytis (has many varieties), in order to infect the plant, it must settle at least on small area dead tissue, feeding on which, it infects neighboring healthy cells with poisonous secretions, then the next ones, thus the affected area is increasing and increasing. A gray putrid speck grows, becomes covered with a gray fluffy bloom - these are the mycelium of the fungus. They can live for a long time in the soil on plant debris, until they are brought from the street with earth, vegetables and fruits brought from the garden, with cut flowers, and there they fall on violets together with the dust. This also applies to other types of fungal infections.

Incorrect transplant of violets.

If the violet is planted incorrectly, it is too deep in the ground, then when watering, the water will fall on the growing point, it will rot and die, then the whole plant may die. There are some tricks to avoid the death of transplanted plants. When planting children in an earthen substrate, make a hole, fill it with wet river sand, washed repeatedly (the last 2-3 times with boiling water). Then make a hole already in the sand, lower the roots of the separated baby there and sprinkle them with the same almost sterile sand. The roots will then sprout through the sand, and will take food in the earthen soil, but with such a planting, even if deepening occurs, the water will simply flow down through the sand, while the children never die. This method is especially good when the pot is too big. If you need to transplant an adult violet or add soil to the pot, and the stem is already bare, you had to remove the rotten leaves from the bottom row. It is necessary to separate all the "hemp" from the leaves with a fingernail, sprinkle the stem with crushed charcoal, make a small bandage of sphagnum moss dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or the drug "Maxim", only then add earth.

Contributes to the development of the disease: water entering the center of the outlet, low temperature(below 18 degrees) indoors, drafts, the center of the outlet is closed from the flow of fresh air by thick raised leaves of middle rows or abundant bouquet flowering.

How to treat.

For treatment, it is necessary: to remove all affected parts of the plant, spray the violet with a solution of any fungicide (Fundazol, Skor, Vectra, Chistotsvet, etc.).

For prevention: spray all the plants that are in the same room with the patient, remove leaves with signs of decay in a timely manner, control the number of ticks, prevent the spread of other pests, do not store vegetables and fruits in a room with a collection of violets, introduce a quarantine regime for all new specimens. Practice has shown that steaming the earthen mixture before planting does not give results in the fight against fungal infections, it is better to add the biological product "Trichodermin" to it or pour a solution of such drugs as "Zaslon", "Barrier" into it. Before budding, spray violets with Zircon or Epin to increase disease resistance. All drugs should be used according to the instructions.

What to do if the growth point of the violet has died.

If the growth point has died in the child planted from the leaf, then the prognosis is not comforting, the plant will most likely die.

If the growth point has died in an adult violet, then after all the amputations, drug treatments, you should try to root a healthy leaf, better than the second from the bottom of the row, cutting off 2/3 of the petiole from it.

How to save a violet

Several growth points may appear on the section remaining after removal of the apex. Wait until they grow up to 4 leaves, remove all but one, then it will grow. If you have experience, then you can grow up your stepsons a little, break them off, prying them with your own nail, and then root them in sterile river sand, as is done when breeding chimera violets.

It may turn out that the disease has spread through the vascular system deep along the stem and no fungicide can help, the leaves in the center will continue to die off, turning black at the very beginning of the petiole, it is better to discard such a plant, boil the pot for 20 minutes. If the variety is very valuable, you can still try to root the leaf.

We hope our tips will help you.

My violet leaves suddenly drooped ...

And the main reasons causing such a deplorable state of plants are re-:

overdrying;
waterlogging;
hypothermia;
overheat.

And if for beginner flower growers violets suffer from the inability to properly water the plants, as well as to select the right pot size and suitable substrate, then for experienced ones - from the inability to correctly poly wa each copy because of their huge number and inconvenient conditions for care (when plants are placed under the ceiling, and they are watered standing on tiptoe on the top step of a shaky step-ladder, or even just blindly).

How to save the victims from improper care of the violet?

Resuscitation when overdrying

If, after a few days of keeping at high humidity, the turgor of the leaves is not restored, and the violet, when the bag is removed, drops the leaves again, it means that the root system has completely died from strong overdrying. Then the plant will have to be redrawn. That is, remove the underground part of the stem, along with the lobe of old, dead roots, and root the plant anew. To make the roots form faster and better, we remove the three lower leaves (if the plant is mature and very leafy, much more is possible). Pour water into a glass jar (for example, from under mayonnaise), put the plant with leaves on the edges of the jar and place it in a transparent plastic bag, where we inject a little warm water to create a higher air humidity. After 2-4 weeks, a powerful lobe of young roots forms in the water. We plant the violet in a pot in a loose, airy earth, water it lightly and again put it in a bag for two weeks. So the plant will take root faster and more reliably. Then we make several holes in the bag, or we untie it, but do not remove it at all, in order to gradually accustom the leaves to air with lower humidity. After 1-2 weeks, the package can be completely removed. The plant is restored, and at the same time rejuvenated.

Reanimation for waterlogging

Then we determine how much the root system has suffered, and whether it is possible to restore the plant in its former quality or it needs to be redrawn.

If the petioles of the lower leaves have rotted at the point of their attachment to the stem, then we remove the old root system without delay - there are definitely no living roots, and there is nothing to save. When the roots fall off with a slight twitch, it means that they are dead and must be removed as soon as possible. If none of this is observed, you can risk restoring the plant without removing all the roots. First, we need to make sure that the root decay process does not affect the plant itself. We make a cross section of the underground part of the stem, departing 0.5–1 cm from its end. We carefully consider the cut. If it is clean, green, with no signs of rot, dust it with charcoal powder, shake off the old soil from the roots and plant the violet in a fresh, slightly moistened, very airy, with a high perlite content, in a small pot.

If the root system has suffered, but has not rotted, you can try to restore it by wrapping the whole plant in a cylinder made of newspapers for 1-2 weeks.

However, the surest and most reliable way to reanimate (save) a flooded violet is to re-root it, and the overwhelming majority of experienced collectors prefer not to risk it, but to immediately cut the roots of a withered violet and root it anew. And they do it in different ways. Yulia Andrusenko is rooting a plant in sphagnum (in a bag). When it grows a decent lobe of roots, it removes the moss, if possible, and plants the violet in a small pot in light soil (as for planting leaves). Larisa Galitskaya pours loose earth into a pot, and puts a layer of sphagnum on top. The violet rosette is placed on top, and the stem partially passes through the sphagnum and almost comes into contact with the substrate. The rooting process takes place in a plastic bag. If after 3-4 weeks the plant does not move with light pressure, it means that it has taken root. Larisa unties the bag, but takes it off after 2-3 weeks and later. Some of her violets even manage to bloom in a half-open bag.

For many amateur gardeners, plants suffer from growing in pots that are too large. Especially often this problem arises during transplantation, when a young plant from a plastic cup or small pot is transplanted immediately into a large pot with a diameter of 12-15 cm. A small root system cannot master such a huge amount of land. After watering, the substrate does not dry out for a long time, respectively, the roots do not breathe for too long and die. Remember! Violets should not be grown in very large pots as they have a small, not very strong root system. And in order to fully provide the plant with nutrients, it is better to follow the path of more frequent transplants with the replacement of the old substrate with a new one. And never put a plant in a pot "for growth." Its volume should always correspond to the size of the root system. And the next container size can be used only after the roots have fully mastered the volume of the old pot. Only experienced growers can afford to "jump" one or two sizes, but with very loose soil and very careful watering within a month after transplanting.

Why does the violet die

And dead roots are an open gate for infection and a breeding ground for pathogenic fungi. This is especially detrimental to plants in summer, when drying out occurs very quickly, and a strong overheating of a small pot is superimposed on it. And fungal diseases develop rapidly in the heat. The output, as in the previous case, is the optimal size of the pot for this instance. For young rosettes, these are plastic cups or pots with a diameter of 6-8 cm. For adult plants, a diameter of 9-10 cm. For very large violets with a huge root system, a diameter of 11-12 cm is acceptable, but this is perhaps the limit.

And the last reason leading to the depressed state of the plant is its old age. These violets have a long, often curving stem, at the end of which there is a faded rosette of discolored leaves. Old roots do not cope well with all their functions, they easily break off, rot and die off. They feel like wet. And the only way to save such a plant is to rejuvenate it, that is, to redo it. And in six months your violet will be unrecognizable! But it is more correct, of course, not to bring the plant to such a state and carry out partial rejuvenation with each planned transplant, namely: deepen the neck (stem) to the lower leaves, and shorten its underground part by 1 / 4-1 / 3 of the length, so as not to increase the size of the pot and to stimulate the formation of new young roots in the upper part of the stem.

So, the main reasons for the wilting of plants:

overdrying;
overheat;
waterlogging;
hypothermia;
too large a pot;
too heavy earth;
too small pot;
very old plant.

I hope that knowing this will help you avoid maintenance mistakes and minimize the loss of plants in your collection.

Afterword

It helps a lot not to flood the plants and control the amount of water measured during watering to each specimen, such a substrate that in a dry, semi-dry and wet state has different shades of color. When in doubt as to whether a given plant should be watered, simply touch the surface of the ground with your finger. This is a great hydration indicator that will never let you down. Watering is not performed on wet and moist soil. If in a hurry you watered a violet that didn't need it - it doesn't matter: rinse the plastic pot several times, loosen the ground, fill it with air - and the plant will cope. Or place a paper napkin under the pot. Water lovers, add more perlite to the substrate - this will help the plant endure your passion. And try to find the courage to control the optimal size of the collection, so that the care of each plant is at least a little, but individual.

Yours I.L.Danilina